Dr. V provides a necessary correction to Eurocentric dermatology by grounding skincare in the specific biochemical realities of melanin-rich skin. It is a compelling argument for moving beyond universalist formulations toward more physiologically inclusive science.
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Deep Dive
Melanin Rich Skin Has Different Science To White Skin
Added:If you got black or brown skin and using the same skin care as your white friend, you're treating the wrong skin. Black and brown girls, listen up. For years, we've been told skin is skin. The same brands, [music] the same actives, the same percentages. It's not true and our skin has paid the price. Here's the science that nobody's told you. Black and brown skin is fundamentally different to Caucasian skin [music] in three ways. Number one, our melanocytes are larger and more reactive. Every irritation triggers pigmentation.
[music] As I always say, one scratch, one bite, or one burn and we hyperpigment. This doesn't happen to white skin. Number two, we have less ceramides in our skin.
That's [music] why our skin looks drier and duller quicker. Number three, our skin is more reactive to fragrance, alcohol, and harsh actives. Fragrance is one of the top triggers for hyperpigmentation in skin of color [music] and that's why the rules are different. So, what works on melanin-rich skin? Tyrosinase inhibitors in every step of our routine. Alpha arbutin, kojic dipalmitate, niacinamide are all non-negotiable for us. Ceramides in both your serums and your moisturizers [music] and fragrance-free everything, including your lip balms.
That same fragrance that darkening your pigmentation is darkening your lips 10 times a day. We also need a mineral SPF, not a chemical one, because it's anti-inflammatory. [music] The problem is nobody's ever formulated specifically for skin of color before and this is why I dedicated my laboratory to my melanin-rich family.
From our Sarap Brightening Moisturizers with ceramides, peptides, and licorice root [music] extract to our Lip Zinc SPF 50 for the lips. I'm wearing Berry color today. To our Inzinkable, our mineral SPF 50 with stem cells [music] for anti-pigmentation. The lie was that we needed the same skin care. The truth is that we needed our own. Save this video and send it to a friend who's using the same skin care as their white friend.
Love, Dr. V.
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