Merry-Go-Round, America's largest mall fashion empire with nearly 1,500 stores at its peak, collapsed in 1994 due to a fundamental mismatch between its rigid 1980s fashion identity and the grunge cultural shift, compounded by aggressive expansion that locked the company into long-term leases at peak market prices and a failed $89 million acquisition of Chess King that added debt without solving the core cultural irrelevance problem.
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Merry-Go-Round: How America's Biggest Mall Fashion Empire Collapsed in 1994Added:
At its peak, Merrygoround controlled nearly 1,500 stores across America. Not Gap, not Express, not the Limited, Merrygoround, and almost nobody talks about it anymore. In 1989, if you were a teenager in America, you already knew the store before you walked in. You heard it first. Music pouring out of the entrance, hitting the mall corridor like a wall of sound. Inside, racks of acid wash denim packed shoulder-to-shoulder, neon blazers, chunky jewelry, everything your favorite MTV artist was wearing, priced for someone with a part-time job, and a Friday night to plan for. This was not a store. It was a mirror. It showed an entire generation exactly who they wanted to be. Then in August 1994, it was gone. Not slowly. Not gracefully. In 18 months, 1,500 stores locked their doors, turned off their lights, and disappeared from every mall in America without a farewell, without a headline most people remember, without so much as a final sale that meant anything. How does a fashion empire that defined a generation simply vanish while the generation it dressed was still alive to watch it happen? That is the story this video is going to tell. And if you wore anything from that store or from the rivals it swallowed, you already know it matters more than a business failure has any right to matter. In 1968, the American shopping mall was still a new idea. The first enclosed mall in the United States had only opened 11 years earlier in Adena, Minnesota. By the late 1960s, developers were building them everywhere in the suburbs outside Baltimore, outside Philadelphia, outside Detroit, and filling them with the same kinds of stores, shoe shops, jewelry counters, women's clothing boutiques that smelled like department store perfume, and catered to mothers, not their children. Nobody was building stores for teenagers. Not because teenagers didn't have money. They did more than any previous generation of American youth. Baby boom families were larger. Suburban incomes were rising.
And the concept of the allowance had quietly become something more significant. A weekly cash flow that millions of American teenagers were already learning to spend on themselves.
The music they listened to was their own. The movies they watched were their own. But the clothes available to them were still an afterthought. discounted versions of adult fashion or the kind of stiff conservative cuts their parents would have approved of a decade earlier.
Harold Goldberg saw the gap. Harold, along with his brother Michael, had grown up in the Baltimore area, close enough to the new suburban mall developments to understand exactly what was being built and exactly what was missing from them. Harold wasn't a fashion designer. He wasn't a retail theorist. He was a practical man who understood one simple thing. If you gave teenagers a store that spoke their language, played their music, and sold them the clothes they actually wanted to wear at prices they could actually afford, they would come. They would keep coming, and they would bring everyone they knew. In 1968, Harold and Michael Goldberg opened the first merry-goround in Echelon Mall in Borheis, New Jersey.
The store was small. By the standards of what the chain would eventually become, it was almost modest. a tight rectangular space. The kind of unit that mall developers handed to new tenants who hadn't yet proven themselves. But what happened inside that space was anything but modest. The music was loud.
That was intentional and it was radical for retail. In 1968, department stores played nothing or soft background music designed to keep shoppers calm and moving slowly.
Merrygoround played the radio, the actual pop and rock radio that teenagers listen to at home. and it played it loud enough to be heard from 20 ft outside the entrance. That sound alone told every teenager walking past, "This store is not for your parents." The merchandise was fast. Harold understood almost instinctively what the fashion industry would spend the next several decades learning to formalize. Trend cycles for teenagers move faster than trend cycles for adults. What was cool in September was dated by December. What you needed was a supply chain nimble enough to keep the racks looking like right now, not 3 months ago.
Merrygoround was built around that principle from day one. And the prices were honest. A teenager working weekends at a gas station or babysitting three nights a week could walk into Marryound and walk out with something real. Not a discount, not a remnant, not last season's mistake marked down to move.
Something that looked like what was on television. something that made the person wearing it feel like they belonged to a moment. That first store worked not just financially, though it did work financially quickly enough that Harold began planning the second location almost immediately. It worked in the way that only a few retail concepts in American history have ever truly worked. It created loyalty before loyalty was even a marketing concept.
Teenagers who shoed there told their friends. Friends came in. They told their friends. In an era before social media, before influencers, before any of the machinery that modern brands use to manufacture word of mouth, merrygoround spread the way genuinely good things spread because the people who experienced it wanted other people to experience it, too. By the early 1970s, there were multiple locations. By the mid 1970s, the chain had expanded beyond New Jersey into neighboring states.
Following the same formula that had worked in Echelon Mall, find the right suburban mall, sign the lease, turn the music up, and let the product speak. The product in those early years was not complicated.
Denim tops, casual pieces with enough attitude to feel current, priced low enough that a teenager didn't need to ask permission to buy them. The Goldbergs were not trying to build a luxury brand. They were trying to build something more durable and more democratic than luxury. A store where looking good wasn't a class privilege.
That was the dream. It was not a corporate mission statement. It was not a PowerPoint slide. It was a decision made in a small store in a New Jersey mall in 1968 by a man who believed that American teenagers deserve better than the retail industry had bothered to give them. for the next 20 years. He was right. There is a specific feeling that anyone who grew up in America between 1978 and 1991 will recognize immediately. It is a Saturday afternoon.
The mall is crowded. Not uncomfortably crowded, but alive in the way that only a Saturday afternoon mall could be. Full of families and couples and groups of teenagers moving in packs. The food court smell drifting down from the upper level. the sound of a hundred conversations overlapping with distant music. You are 14 or 16 or 19. You have cash in your pocket, maybe $20, maybe 50, and the whole afternoon ahead of you. And then you hear it. Before you see the store, you hear it. The baseline, the synthesizer, the voice of whatever was dominating the radio that week. It gets louder as you approach. By the time you reach the entrance, the music is everywhere. And inside, under lights brighter and more focused than anything else in the mall corridor, the racks begin. That was merry-goround at its peak. That was what it felt like to walk in. By the early 1980s, the chain had found its identity completely. The look of the stores had become unmistakable.
high energy visual merchandising that felt less like a retail floor and more like a stage set. Designed to make every item of clothing look like it was already being worn by someone interesting. The racks were dense but organized, grouped by color and trend rather than by size, so that the experience of shopping felt like discovery rather than sorting. You went in looking for a shirt and came out of having tried on four things you hadn't planned on and bought two of them. The clothes themselves were the product of an era that had decided collectively and with great enthusiasm that restraint was optional. Acid wash denim in every configuration.
Jackets, jeans, skirts, vests, blazers with shoulder pads wide enough to suggest architecture. Neon and colors that had no names in nature. Skinny ties worn with oversized tops. leather look jackets that weren't leather but look close enough from 10 feet away which was all that mattered on a Friday night.
Chunky plastic jewelry, fingerless gloves, every piece designed to signal something. Energy, attitude, membership in a generation that had decided it was going to be loud about existing. And the prices made all of it possible. A merry-goround jacket in 1985 might cost $18. A pair of their jeans, 12, a full outfit, the kind of thing a teenager would wear to a concert or a first date, could be assembled for under $40 at a time when a minimum wage worker earned 335 an hour. This was not accidental.
The Goldbergs had built the entire business model around the purchasing power of the American teenager, which meant keeping prices low enough that a kid with a part-time job and reasonable parents didn't need to save for weeks to afford something real. That accessibility was the quiet revolution at the heart of Merrygoround success.
Style in America before this had always been loosely correlated with income.
What the chain demonstrated practically store by store, sale by sale, was that it didn't have to be. You didn't need a department store budget to look like you belong to the moment. You needed $40 in a Saturday afternoon. The occasions people chose merrygoround for were specific and deeply personal. Before the first concert, the real one, the one with a real ticket and a real stage, teenagers across America stopped at merrygoround first. The outfit for that night wasn't incidental. It was part of the experience. Chosen with the same care that went into deciding who to go with and where to stand. Former customers decades later still remember exactly what they wore to see Bon Joy in 1987 or Madonna in 1985 or Deaf Leopard in 1988. And a significant number of those outfits came off a merry-goround rack. Back to school was the other great seasonal ritual. Late August, the week before school started, the mall would fill with teenagers and their parents on a specific mission. For the parents, it was a budget exercise. For the teenagers, it was an identity exercise, the chance to decide with new clothes and a new school year ahead exactly who they were going to be this time. Mary Goround understood both sides of that transaction. The prices were low enough to satisfy the parents. The product was current enough to satisfy the teenagers.
That combination was nearly impossible to beat. And there were the employees.
For hundreds of thousands of American teenagers and young adults throughout the 1980s, Merrygoround was not just where you shopped, it was where you worked. The chain's hiring profile was almost perfectly self-referential.
They hired their own customers. Young people who already knew the brand, already wore the clothes, already understood the aesthetic. The result was a sales floor that felt to anyone walking in like the coolest group of people in the mall had all happened to end up working in the same place. The employee discount made it better. Staff could buy the merchandise at a significant reduction, which meant that working at merry-goround was a compounding benefit. You were paid to be there. You wore the product at a discount and the product you wore was advertising for the store every time you left the building. It was an ecosystem that fed itself.
Former employees from that era described the experience in remarkably consistent terms. The music, the energy of a busy Saturday, the particular satisfaction of helping a customer find something that made them look exactly like the version of themselves they were trying to become. There was a genuine culture inside those stores. Not corporatemandated, not scripted, but organic, built by young people who were living the same cultural moment as the customers they served. What was it about that store, that specific combination of music and light and affordable aspiration that made an entire generation of Americans feel, even briefly, like they had found exactly the right place to be? By the mid1 1980s, merrygoround had become something that very few retail brands ever genuinely achieve. It had become part of the furniture of American adolescence. Not just a store that teenagers used, but a landmark in the geography of growing up. As fixed and familiar as the food court, the movie theater, and the parking lot where you met your friends before you went inside.
The brand was woven into the texture of everyday life in a way that no marketing campaign could have manufactured. It happened because the product was right, the price was right, and the timing, the extraordinary, unre repeatable timing of landing in the middle of the most visually extravagant decade in American popular culture was perfect. In 1989, the chain was approaching 1,000 locations. The expansion that had begun with a single store in a New Jersey mall 21 years earlier had produced one of the most recognizable retail presences in the country. Virtually every major regional mall in America had one. In some malls, it had two different subbrands, Chess King and Signal and Ativo, targeting slightly different demographics, but all operating under the same parent company. All running on the same fundamental insight that Harold Goldberg had acted on in 1968.
The machine was at full power, and somewhere inside it, so quietly that almost no one noticed, something had already begun to break. Growth in the retail industry is not just a goal. It is a logic, a self-reinforcing system that once started becomes almost impossible to stop. Every new store justifies the infrastructure built to support it. Every new market entered creates pressure to enter the next one.
The fixed costs of running a retail operation, the buying teams, the distribution centers, the corporate staff, the legal and accounting and marketing overhead only make financial sense if the revenue base beneath them keeps expanding. Stand still and the math starts working against you. Move forward and the math rewards you. The only question is how fast and in which direction. For merrygoround throughout the 1980s, the answer to both questions was faster and everywhere. The chain's expansion during this decade was not gradual. It was aggressive in the specific way that American retail in the 1980s rewarded aggression. Signing leases in new malls before competitors could. moving into markets while the demographic data still pointed upward.
Opening locations at a pace that required constant hiring, constant training, constant logistics management, and a corporate infrastructure that had to grow almost as fast as the store count itself. By the mid1 1980s, Merrygoround was no longer simply opening new merry-goround stores. The company had begun acquiring. The first significant acquisitions were the subbrands that would eventually make the merrygoround enterprises portfolio one of the most complex in specialty retail.
Signal targeted a slightly older, slightly more sophisticated customer than the core merry-goround brand. Young adults in their early 20s who still wanted trend forward fashion but were beginning to age out of the teenage aesthetic. AIBO pushed further in that direction, offering a more upscale presentation at a higher price point.
Each brand occupied its own lane, and the theory was elegant. Instead of trying to stretch one brand across multiple demographics, build a portfolio of brands that collectively covered the entire young adult fashion market. In practice, this meant that a single regional mall might contain three or four merrygoround enterprises locations.
a merrygoround, a chess king, a Signal, perhaps an Adavo. Each one pulling from the same parent company's distribution network. Each one technically competing with the others for the same mall shoppers dollar. Each one adding to the lease obligations that the parent company was accumulating at an accelerating rate. The lease issue deserves attention because it is one of the mechanisms that would eventually help destroy the company. And in the late 1980s, it was almost invisible.
Mall leases in America are long-term commitments. A standard retail lease runs 10 years, sometimes 15. The rent is fixed at signing and the terms are negotiated based on the market conditions at the time of signing. For merrygoround, signing leases throughout the mid to late 1980s meant locking in obligations at the peak of the mall retail boom, when landlords had leverage, when mall traffic was at its historic high. When every projection for the future of American retail pointed toward more malls, more shoppers, more growth, the rents reflected all of that optimism. They were high and they were fixed for a decade. That was the hidden weight being loaded onto the company's balance sheet with every new opening. In good years, when the stores were full and the registers were ringing, the rent was manageable. But retail leases do not adjust when times get hard. They do not care about fashion cycles or consumer sentiment or the emergence of new competitors. They simply require payment every month for the full term of the agreement. Nobody in the boardroom in 1987 or 1988 was spending much time worrying about that. The stores were performing. The brand was strong. The demographics were favorable. The children of the baby boom, the so-called generation X, were moving through their teenage years in enormous numbers, and every one of them was a potential merrygoround customer. For the people working inside the expanding chain, the growth felt like opportunity. Store managers who had started as part-time sales associates in the early 1980s found themselves running multiple locations by the end of the decade.
District managers oversaw territories that spanned entire states. The company's need for experienced retail talent was constant and urgent, which meant that promotion came quickly for anyone willing to work hard and commit to the brand. A 24year-old in 1988 could realistically be managing a store with half a million dollars in annual revenue and a team of 15 people. Not because the company was generous, but because the growth required it. For franchise operators and independent investors who came into the system during this period, the calculations seemed straightforward.
The brand had a proven track record. The demographics were strong. The mall locations were in established centers with guaranteed foot traffic. Put the right product in front of the right customer in the right location. And the returns were reliable. What was harder to see from inside a thriving store in a busy mall in 1988 was the larger structural question that the expansion had created without anyone quite intending it. The Merrygoround Enterprises portfolio was now massive, complex, and expensive to operate. It required enormous consistency across hundreds of locations to maintain the energy and identity that had made the brand work in the first place. It required a supply chain sophisticated enough to keep every one of those locations stocked with product that felt current because the entire value proposition of the brand rested on being current. And it had accumulated a mountain of long-term lease obligations in an era when mall retail was at its absolute peak, which meant that any sustained downturn in store performance would have nowhere to hide. The machine was built for acceleration. Nobody had fully designed the brakes. By 1989, the company was approaching the top of the curve. The stores were full. The brand was strong. The future looked like more of the same. More malls, more locations, more growth, more of everything that had worked so well for 20 years. What came next was not more of the same. It was something nobody in the company had truly prepared for. A shift so fundamental, so swift, and so complete that no amount of real estate or brand equity or accumulated goodwill could stand against it. There is a moment in the life of certain American businesses when they stop being businesses and become something else entirely. It happens rarely. It requires a specific alignment of product, timing, and cultural circumstance that cannot be manufactured or reverse engineered. It happened to Coca-Cola in the 1950s. It happened to McDonald's in the 1960s. It happened to Sears across several decades simultaneously. And in a more compressed, more generationally specific way, it happened to Marryound in the 1980s. By 1991, the company operated roughly 1,500 stores across the United States under its various brand names.
That number alone placed it among the largest specialty retail operations in the country. But the number by itself does not capture what the brand had become. Numbers describe scale. They do not describe meaning. What Merrygoround had become by the late 1980s was a shared reference point for an entire generation of Americans. If you were between the ages of 13 and 25 in the United States during this period, the brand was part of your landscape in a way that required no decision, no discovery, no introduction. It was simply there in every mall, in every suburb, in every midsized American city from New England to the Pacific coast.
You shop there or your friends did or both. You worked there or someone you knew did. The clothes you wore to the events that mattered most during those years, the concerts, the dances, the first dates, the nights that would later become the stories you told. A significant number of them came off a merry-goround rack. The television advertising of this period captured something real about the brand's cultural position. The commercials were unapologetically of their moment.
Saturated color, fast cuts, the kind of synthesizer heavy soundtrack that sounded like the decade itself compressed into 30 seconds. Teenagers in the ads moved through the stores and through the world with the specific confidence of people who had found exactly the right thing to wear, which was of course the precise feeling the brand was selling. The ads ran during the programming that teenagers actually watched on the networks that reached them. And they work because they were not selling aspiration in the abstract.
They were selling a specific, achievable, affordable version of aspiration that required nothing more than a trip to the mall. What the commercials could not capture, what no advertising can ever fully capture, was the generational transmission that had quietly become one of the brand's most powerful assets. By the mid1 1980s, the first wave of Merrygoround's customers had grown up. The teenagers who had discovered the store in the early 1970s were now in their late 20s and early 30s, and some of them had children of their own who were approaching adolescence. The handoff was natural and unrehearsed. Parents who had their own memories of the store brought their kids in not as a deliberate brand building exercise, but simply because the store was there, because it was familiar, because it had worked before and would presumably work again. This kind of generational continuity is extraordinarily difficult to build and almost impossible to fake. It requires a brand to remain genuinely relevant across a span of years long enough for its original customers to become parents while still being credible to the children those parents are now bringing through the door. Very few retail brands ever achieve it. Merrygoround in the mid to late 1980s had it. For the young people working inside the stores during this period, the sense of being part of something significant was real and immediate. A store associate at a merry-goround in suburban Ohio or suburban Texas or suburban California in 1988 was not simply folding jeans and running a register. They were the human face of a brand that their customers were emotionally invested in. A brand that for many of those customers represented something personal and important about who they were and who they wanted to be. The work was retail work with all the physical demands and scheduling unpredictability that retail work involves. But the culture inside the stores was genuinely different from most retail environments of the era.
Younger, louder, more energetic, animated by the same music and the same cultural moment that the customers were living through. District managers from this period describe a workforce that was unusually motivated by pride of product. The employees were the customers. They wore the clothes because they wanted to. Not only because the discount made it practical. When a new shipment arrived and the racks were refreshed, the staff responded the same way the customers did with genuine interest in what was new, genuine opinions about what was worth buying.
That authenticity was not a management strategy. It was a natural consequence of hiring people who were already part of the culture the brand was serving.
And at its peak, the brand served that culture with a comprehensiveness that its competitors could not match. Chess King, which Mary Goround would eventually acquire, had spent years occupying the same mall corridors and targeting the same demographic. Young men who wanted fashionforward clothing at affordable prices. The two brands existed in a kind of creative tension that actually benefited both of them, giving teenagers a choice between two legitimate options and making the mall's fashion corridor feel like a destination rather than a single store. By the time merrygoround absorbed chess king, it had effectively consolidated the defining male fashion retail experience of the American mall era under a single corporate roof. What does it mean when a place is not just a store but a geography of becoming a space where a generation practiced being themselves?
For the communities where merrygoround had become a fixture, the answer was practical as well as cultural. The stores were employers, tax contributors, anchor tenants that helped sustain the mall ecosystems around them. In smaller markets, a merrygoround location was often the most current, most fashionforward retail option available.
the story that connected a teenager in a midsize Midwestern city to the same cultural moment that teenagers in New York and Los Angeles were living through. That democratization of access was real and significant and it was something the brand delivered consistently at scale for more than two decades. In 1991, standing at the peak of everything it had built, Merrygoround Enterprises was one of the most successful specialty retail companies in the history of American commerce. It was also, though almost no one understood this yet, standing at the edge of something it would not survive. On September 24th, 1991, a rock band from Aberdine, Washington released their second studio album on a major label.
The album was called Never Mind. The band was Nirvana. And within weeks of its release, it had done something that no marketing campaign, no corporate strategy, and no amount of retail real estate could protect against. It had changed what American teenagers wanted to look like. This is not hyperbole. The shift that never mind accelerated was real, measurable, and almost instantaneous by the standards of cultural change. The aesthetic that had dominated American youth fashion for a decade, the bright colors, the structured shoulders, the deliberate glamour of the MTV era, did not fade gradually. It collapsed. Flannel shirts replaced neon blazers. Torn jeans replaced acid wash. The deliberate, carefully assembled look that merry-goround had been selling, perfecting, and scaling for 20 years was suddenly, almost overnight, the opposite of what the culture was signaling. The teenagers who had been Merrygoround's most reliable customers did not stop caring about fashion. They cared about it intensely. They simply stopped caring about the kind of fashion that merry-goround sold. To understand why this was fatal rather than merely challenging, it is necessary to understand what merrygoround actually was and what it was not. The brand had been built on a specific aesthetic identity. Not a broad adaptable identity that could absorb multiple trend cycles, but a tight specific one. The look of the 1980s executed affordably and accessibly for the American teenager.
That specificity was the source of the brand's strength throughout the decade.
It knew exactly what it was. It delivered that thing consistently and its customers trusted it to keep delivering. But that same specificity was a structural liability the moment the cultural moment it had been built to serve moved on. A brand with a flexible identity, a brand defined by quality or value or a certain kind of customer service can pivot when fashion changes.
The product changes, but the promise stays the same. Merrygoround's promise and its product were the same thing.
When the product became culturally irrelevant, there was no underlying promise left to stand on. The company's leadership understood at some level that something had shifted. The sales dot was unambiguous. Traffic was softening.
Conversion rates were declining.
Inventory was moving more slowly than it had in years. The question was not whether to respond, but how. The answer the company reached for was the obvious one. Update the product. Bring in grunge adjacent merchandise. Stock the flannel.
Move the neon to the back. Respond to what the customers were now asking for.
It did not work. It did not work for a reason that is in retrospect almost painfully logical. But that is extraordinarily difficult to see from inside a successful company that has never had to reinvent itself before.
Merrygoround was not simply a store that happened to sell 1980s fashion. In the minds of its customers and in the cultural geography of every mall it occupied. It was the 1980s fashion store. That identity had been built over two decades, reinforced by millions of shopping trips, billions of dollars in merchandise, and an entire generation's worth of personal memory. It could not be updated with a new inventory order.
It could not be rebranded with new signage. The association was too deep, too personal, too thoroughly embedded in the cultural landscape to be dislodged by a strategic pivot. A teenager in 1992 who wanted to shop grunge did not walk into merry-goround and feel at home there. The music might have changed. The store might have stocked different merchandise, but the space itself, the lighting, the energy, the accumulated identity of the brand communicated something that the new product contradicted. It felt like a costume, not a culture. The customers could feel the difference, even if they could not have articulated it. While the brand was struggling to find its footing in a changed cultural landscape, the financial architecture that the expansion decade had built was beginning to press down with its full weight. The long-term mall leases signed at the peak of the market in the late 1980s were now fixed obligations in an environment where store performance was declining.
There was no mechanism to renegotiate them downward. Mall landlords had no incentive to offer relief to a tenant that was still technically a major national brand. The rent was due every month regardless of what the sales figure said. The multibrand portfolio strategy which had seemed like elegant diversification in the mid1 1980s was now a liability of a different kind.
Signal and Aivo and the other subbrands had been built on the same fundamental aesthetic as the core merry-goround brand. Slightly different target demographics, slightly different price points, but the same essential cultural identity. When that identity became dated, it did not become dated for one brand. It became dated for all of them simultaneously. The portfolio that had looked like a hedge against risk turned out to be a concentration of risk, all facing the same direction at the same moment. Inside the stores, the people closest to the customers were the first to feel it. Store managers noticed the change in foot traffic before the quarterly reports confirmed it. The Saturday crowds were still there, but they moved differently. More browsing, less buying, more time spent looking at items before putting them back on the rack. The customers who had been the most loyal, the ones who had come in every few weeks and reliably walked out with bags, were coming in less often.
Some had stopped coming in at all. A store manager in a Virginia mall described the period this way in recollections documented years later.
The store still looked the same. The music was still playing. The lights were still on. But something had gone quiet in a way that had nothing to do with the sound system. The energy had changed.
The customers could feel it. The staff could feel it. Everyone was waiting for something to turn around without being entirely sure what turning around would look like. Corporate communications during this period maintained a tone of measured confidence. The softness in sales was characterized as cyclical.
Fashion always moved in cycles and the pendulum would swing back. The expansion strategy was not publicly questioned.
The acquisition pipeline was still active. How long could a company ignore what its own stores were telling it every single day? The answer, it turned out, was long enough to make the inevitable collapse significantly worse than it needed to be. Because while the brand was waiting for the pendulum to swing back, the company's leadership made a decision that would remove any remaining margin for error. A decision so consequential and so poorly timed that it would transform a serious challenge into an unservivable one. In the spring of 1993, Merrygoround Enterprises made the single most consequential decision in its history.
It acquired Chess King. Chess King was in many ways Merrygoround's mirror image. A mall-based specialty retailer targeting young men with affordable trend forward fashion operating out of the same kind of high energy storefronts in the same regional malls across the same American suburbs. The two chains had coexisted for years as friendly rivals occupying opposite ends of the same mall carters competing for the same customer's dollar with enough brand differentiation to make the competition productive rather than purely destructive. By 1993, Chess King was in trouble. Its sales had been declining for the same reasons merrygorounds had.
the fashion shift, the softening mall traffic, the fundamental mismatch between what the brand had been built to sell and what the culture was now asking for. The company was losing money. Its future as an independent operation was genuinely uncertain. Merrygoround paid approximately $89 million to acquire it.
The strategic logic, as presented internally and to the financial community, was consolidation. By absorbing Chess King, Merrygoround would eliminate a direct competitor, add roughly 550 locations to its portfolio, gain access to Chess King's customer base, and achieve the kind of scale efficiencies that justify acquisition premiums in retail. The deal made sense on paper in the way that deals always make sense on paper when the people evaluating them are invested in the outcome. What the paper did not capture, what no spreadsheet built in a corporate conference room in 1993 could fully account for was the reality that merry-goround was buying 550 stores that were already failing in a retail category that was already contracting and paying $89 million for the privilege at precisely the moment when the company most needed financial flexibility. The debt incurred to complete the acquisition did not sit quietly on the balance sheet. It demanded service, monthly interest payments that added a fixed, unavoidable cost to an operation that was already generating declining revenue. Every dollar that went towards servicing the Chess King acquisition debt was a dollar that could not go toward updating product, refreshing store environments, investing in the kind of operational improvements that might have given the brand a fighting chance at relevance. The acquisition did not solve Maryound's problems. It compounded them at interest. And it did something else, something harder to quantify, but no less damaging. It signaled to everyone inside the company who understood what was happening that the leadership's diagnosis of the situation was wrong. The company's core problem in 1993 was not a lack of scale.
It was not insufficient market coverage.
It was not the continued independent existence of Chess King. The problem was that the cultural moment the company had been built to serve had ended and the company had not yet found a convincing answer to what came next. Acquiring a failing competitor did not address that problem. It expanded the footprint of the problem while simultaneously reducing the financial resources available to solve it. The people who understood this most clearly were not in the boardroom. They were on the sales floor. store associates and managers throughout the chain had been watching the customer shift in real time for nearly 2 years by the time the Chess King acquisition was announced. They had seen the merchandise that didn't move.
They had heard the feedback direct and unfiltered from customers who were increasingly vocal about what they wanted and increasingly clear that merry-goround was not providing it. They had watched their own peers, people their age, people who had been regular customers, stop coming in. The announcement of the Chess King acquisition landed in the stores with a particular kind of silence. Not hostility exactly, but a quiet recognition among people who had been watching the numbers that the company was moving in the wrong direction at an accelerating pace. A district manager who oversaw locations across the Mid-Atlantic states described the period in later interviews as one of growing disconnection between what corporate communications were saying and what the stores were experiencing every day. The optimism from headquarters felt increasingly untethered from the reality on the floor. The product problem had not been solved. If anything, it had deepened. The attempts to incorporate grunge influenced merchandise into the merry-goround assortment had not generated the response the company had hoped for. The brand's identity was too fixed, too thoroughly established in the customer's mind for a product pivot to register as authentic. What worked for a brand with a flexible identity, add flannel, remove neon, adjust the rack, red as costume on a brand that customers had already filed under a specific cultural category. The merchandise felt imported, not indigenous. It did not belong to the store in the way the acidwash jackets and neon blazers had belonged to it because those items had not been imposed on the brand from outside. They had grown out of it organically over years as a natural expression of what the brand was. The flannel did not grow out of anything. It arrived on a truck. Meanwhile, the physical stores themselves were beginning to show the strain of underinvestment. Throughout the peak years of the 1980s, the stores had been kept current. New fixtures, updated signage, the kind of ongoing maintenance and refresh that keeps a retail environment feeling alive rather than tired. As financial pressure mounted in the early 1990s, those investments were among the first to be deferred. Not eliminated, not cancelled, just pushed back. Quarter after quarter, as more urgent demands competed for the same shrinking pool of capital, the effect was gradual but cumulative. The stores that had once felt like the most energetic spaces in the mall began to look incrementally like stores that had stopped trying. The lighting was the same. The layout was the same. But the accumulated effect of deferred maintenance, fixtures that weren't replaced, signage that wasn't updated, carpeting that wasn't refreshed, communicated something to customers that no amount of advertising could counteract. It communicated that the brand had lost confidence in itself.
Customers notice these things without consciously registering them. They simply find that a store they once looked forward to visiting now feels like an obligation or a habit that has outlasted its reason for existing. The visits become less frequent. The purchases become smaller. The emotional investment that once made the brand feel personal begins to dissolve. Not in a single moment of disillusionment, but in a long quiet series of unremarkable visits that gradually stop happening at all. Who exactly was supposed to protect the people who had built their livelihoods around this brand? The store managers who had spent years developing expertise, the associates who had built their first professional identities inside these stores. The communities that had come to depend on these locations as employers and gathering places. The answer by 1993 was becoming clear. Nobody was coming. the decisions being made at the corporate level, the Chess King acquisition, the deferred investment, the strategic optimism that persisted in the face of contradicting evidence were not decisions made with the welfare of those people as a primary consideration. They were decisions made by people trying to solve a business problem with the tools they knew how to use in an environment that required tools they had never needed before. By the summer of 1994, the tools had run out. The stores were still open. The music was still playing. The lights were still on. But the company that owned all of it was moving with gathering speed toward a conclusion that had become by that point very nearly inevitable. On August 4th, 1994, Merrygoround Enterprises filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in the United States Bankruptcy Court. The filing listed liabilities of approximately $326 million for a company that had once operated,500 stores, employed tens of thousands of people, and generated over a billion dollars in annual revenue at its peak. The number was not surprising to anyone who had been watching the deterioration of the previous 3 years.
What was surprising when what caught many people off guard, including a significant number of the company's own employees, was how quickly the filing moved from restructuring to liquidation.
Chapter 11. Bankruptcy in theory is a tool for reorganization. A company enters the process with the intention of restructuring its debts, renegotiating its obligations, and emerging as a leaner, more financially viable operation. It is not in theory a death sentence. Many large American retailers have entered chapter 11 and come out the other side. The process requires finding a path through a combination of debt reduction, lease renegotiations, and operational changes that convinces creditors and the court that the reorganized company has a viable future.
For merrygoround, no such path materialized. The company's advisers spent months searching for a buyer, a strategic acquirer or private equity firm willing to take on the portfolio and bet on a turnaround. The brand had name recognition. It had real estate and established malls. It had an infrastructure that theoretically could be repurposed or redirected. But the fashion retail landscape of 1994 was not interested in what Maryound was selling.
and the people with the capital to consider an acquisition understood that the brand's core problem, the fundamental mismatch between its identity and the cultural moment was not a problem that money alone could solve.
No buyer came. In early 1996, the bankruptcy proceedings converted to chapter 7. liquidation. The assets would be sold, the leases would be terminated or signed, and the stores, all of them, every remaining location across every brand in the portfolio would close. The day the closing announcements reached individual stores was not a single day.
It happened in waves, location by location, region by region, as the liquidation process worked its way through the portfolio. But for the people inside those stores, the experience of that day whenever it came was remarkably consistent across geography and brand. A store manager at a merrygoround location in a suburban Maryland mall not far from where the company had first opened its doors more than 25 years earlier described receiving the call from her district manager on a Tuesday morning before the store opened. The district manager's voice was flat, professional, the tone of someone delivering information they had been trained to deliver without editorializing. The store would be closing. The timeline would be communicated. Staff would be notified.
She spent the next hour sitting in the back office before her team arrived for their shifts, trying to figure out how to say it. The staff she called in early that morning were young. Most of them were in their late teens or early 20s, working part-time around school or second jobs. the same demographic profile that merrygoround had always hired from, always relied on, always shaped its culture around. For most of them, this was their first real job.
Some of them had been hired less than a year earlier in the ordinary course of a company that had still been onboarding new employees even as his financial situation was deteriorating behind the scenes. They asked the questions that people always ask in those moments. How long do we have? Will we get our last paychecks? What about the hours we've already worked? Is there any chance it changes? The answers to most of those questions were uncertain in ways that were genuinely distressing because the bankruptcy process is not designed with part-time retail workers as its primary constituency.
Creditors get paid in a prescribed order. Secured lenders come first.
Landlords have claims.
Suppliers have claims. the people who had been showing up to fold jeans and run registers and help teenagers find the right outfit for the right occasion.
They waited in line with everyone else and the line was long. The liquidation sales that followed were a particular kind of American retail spectacle. The stores that had spent years projecting energy, currency, and aspiration were stripped of all three simultaneously.
The liquidation signage, stark, utilitarian, entirely lacking in the visual language the brand had spent decades cultivating, covered the windows and the entrance displays. Everything must go. Final sale, all items reduced.
Customers came. They came in numbers in some locations that briefly resembled the Saturday crowds of the peak years.
But the nature of the visit had changed entirely. They were not there because the brand spoke to them. They were there because the prices were low. The emotional transaction that had defined every merrygoround shopping experience for 25 years. The exchange of money for identity, for belonging, for a specific feeling about who you were and how you looked had been replaced by the purely transactional logic of clearance. Former regular customers who walked through those liquidation stores in late 1995 and early 1996 described the experience in terms that went beyond disappointment. The racks were picked over. The organization that had always been part of the store's identity.
Merchandise grouped by color and trend presented as discovery rather than sorting was gone, replaced by the random disorder of a sale in progress. The music in some locations had been turned off entirely. The lights that had always given the stores their particular energy were reduced to basic overhead fluoresence. It looked more than anything like a store that had already left. A physical space going through the motions of its own departure. In the malls where merrygoround had operated multiple brands, a merrygoround and a chess king and perhaps a signal in the same building. The simultaneous closure of all three locations left visible wounds in the mall's commercial geography. Three storefronts going dark at once. Three sets of windows papered over. Three portions of the mall's foot traffic corridor suddenly generating nothing. No music, no light, no reason to slow down and look. Mallagement team scrambled to find replacement tenants with varying success. In the stronger malls, the ones in markets with growing populations and strong demographics, the spaces were eventually filled. But the replacement process took months, sometimes longer, and in the interim, the empty storefronts communicated something that no amount of cheerful mall marketing could counteract. They communicated that something had ended.
In the weaker malls, the ones in markets that were already softening, already showing the early signs of the broader mall decline that would accelerate through the late 1990s and become catastrophic in the 2000s. The merrygoround closures were sometimes the beginning of a spiral that the mall never recovered from. Anchor tenants departure licenses other tenants to reconsider their own commitments. Foot traffic drops. Other stores see declining sales. Other leases come up for renewal and are not renewed. The process once started has its own momentum. Merrygoround did not cause the death of the American mall, but in dozens of markets across the country, its departure accelerated a process that was already underway and left communities that had organized a portion of their commercial and social life around those mall environments with a gap that took years to partially fill and was never fully replaced. For the tens of thousands of people who had worked for the company over its 27-year history, the closure meant different things depending on where they were in their careers and their lives. For the senior managers and corporate staff who had spent decades building the operation, it was the end of something they had invested themselves in completely, careers, identities, professional relationships, a significant portion of the years that matter most. Several of them went on to other roles in retail, carrying with them a specific and hard one knowledge of what scale looks like when it works and what it looks like when it doesn't.
For the store level employees, the associates and assistant managers and shift supervisors who had made the brand function every day. The closure was more immediately practical and more immediately painful. Unemployment benefits where available provided a temporary bridge. References could be written. Skills acquired in retail transfer to other retail environments.
But the particular thing that merry-goround had given many of them a first professional identity, a workplace culture that had felt genuinely different from most options available to a teenager or young adult in suburban America. That was not transferable. It had existed in a specific place in time and the place was closing and the time had already passed. The last merry-goround stores closed in 1996. The music stopped. The lights went off. The doors were locked from the outside. And an entire generation of Americans going about their daily lives in the suburbs and the cities and the small towns where those malls had been landmarks drove past the empty storefronts on their way to somewhere else and felt without necessarily being able to name it that something had gone quiet in the landscape of their lives. When a retail chain the size of merry-goround disappears, the space it occupied does not stay empty forever. Commerce abhores a vacuum in the same way nature does.
Eventually, something moves in, claims the square footage, turns the lights back on, and begins the process of replacing one set of memories with another. What moved into the spaces that merrygoround left behind in the mid to late 1990s was a generation of specialty retailers that had watched the collapse carefully and learned from it. Gap had been growing throughout the period of merry-goround's decline. Building a brand identity defined not by a specific aesthetic decade, but by a specific customer relationship. clean, accessible, reliably consistent, adaptable enough to move with fashion cycles without being enslaved to any single one of them. American Eagle Outfitters, founded in 1977, but ascending to national prominence in the 1990s, positioned itself around a casual outdoorsinflected aesthetic that proved durable across multiple trend cycles.
Abbercrombie and Fitch rebuilt itself in 1992 under new leadership into something that would dominate the late 1990s and early 2000s in ways that merrygoround had dominated the 1980s with a critical difference that its brand identity, however specific, was tied to a lifestyle rather than a single fashion moment. These brands did not simply fill the physical spaces merry-goround had vacated. They inherited its customer base. the same demographic, the same purchasing psychology, the same fundamental desire for affordable fashion that conferred identity and belonging. What they offered that merrygoround had ultimately failed to provide was adaptability. They were built consciously or not with enough structural flexibility to survive the end of whatever cultural moment they had initially ridden to prominence. The lesson was not lost in the industry. The collapse of merry-goround was studied, discussed, and documented in retail trade publications throughout the mid1 1990s as a cautionary example of what happens when brand identity becomes brand rigidity. The specific mechanics varied in the telling. Some analyses emphasize the chess king acquisition, others the lease obligations, others the failure to respond to the grunge shift.
But the underlying diagnosis was consistent. The company had confused the strength of its identity with the permanence of the cultural moment that identity was built on. Those are not the same thing. One is an asset. The other is a clock. The Chess King acquisition in particular became a reference point in retail industry discussions of acquisition strategy. A clear example of the category of mistake that occurs when a company attempts to solve a strategic problem with a financial instrument.
Merrygoround's problem in 1993 was cultural and operational. Chess King's $89 million price tag did not address either of those dimensions. It added debt, added complexity, and added 550 failing stores to a portfolio that was already struggling to justify its existing footprint. The deal is remembered in the industry not as a bold consolidation play that didn't work out, but as a fundamental misreading of what the company actually needed for the malls that had anchored significant portions of their commercial identity around Marryound and its subsidiary brands. The aftermath was uneven and in many cases lasting. The stronger mall properties located in markets with growing populations, strong household incomes, and genuine retail demand absorbed the loss and recovered. New tenants filled the spaces. Foot traffic stabilized. The malls that survived the 1990s generally did so because they had fundamental demographic advantages that no single tenants departure could permanently undermine. The weaker properties did not recover in the same way. for malls that had been operating in markets with stagnant or declining populations where merrygoround had been one of several chains providing the critical mass of retail that justified a shopper's trip. The simultaneous departure of multiple brands from the same portfolio was a blow from which some never fully recovered. The 1990s closures planted seeds of decline that bloomed into the widespread mall crisis of the 2000s and 2010s. A crisis that would eventually claim hundreds of properties across the country and reshape the commercial geography of American suburban life in ways that are still being lived with today. The communities that had depended on merry-goround locations as employers felt the loss in ways that were immediate and personal. Part-time retail work is not in the taxonomy of American employment considered significant. It does not generate the kind of policy attention that factory closures attract or the kind of journalistic coverage that corporate layoffs receive. But for the hundreds of thousands of people overwhelmingly young, overwhelmingly in their first or second jobs, overwhelmingly without the professional networks and financial cushions that soften employment disruptions for more established workers, the loss of those positions was real and consequential.
First jobs are not just income. They are the beginning of professional identity, the first experience of workplace culture, the initial accumulation of the references and skills and habits that shape everything that comes after. For many of the young people who had worked at Marggo during the 1980s and early 1990s, the store had been exactly that, a first job that felt like more than a job in a workplace that felt like more than a workplace. The closure did not merely eliminate a paycheck. It ended something. The brand itself, the name, the intellectual property, the residual recognition value passed through the bankruptcy proceedings and was eventually sold. No serious revival attempt materialized. The cultural moment that had given Mary Goround its meaning had passed completely by the time the liquidation was finished. And no buyer with genuine resources was willing to bet that the name alone could anchor a credible new retail concept in the changed landscape of mid1990s America. Chess King disappeared entirely. Siknal disappeared. Ato disappeared. The entire portfolio of brands that Merry-goround Enterprises had assembled over two and a half decades vanished within a period of roughly 18 months, leaving behind nothing more durable than the memories of the people who had shopped there, worked there, and built portions of their lives around what those stores had meant. What do we lose when the gathering places disappear? Not just the stores, but the specific spaces where a generation learned to be themselves, tried on identities, practiced the social rituals that would define them for decades afterward. The question is not rhetorical in the way that questions about financial performance are rhetorical. It is asking about something real. A category of loss that does not show up in bankruptcy filings or retail industry postmortems. But that is felt quietly and persistently by the people who experienced what was lost. The American mall at its peak was not simply a commercial environment. It was a social infrastructure, a climate controlled, accessible, geographically central space where people of different backgrounds and economic circumstances could occupy the same territory pursue the same pleasures and participate in the same cultural moment. Stores like Merrygoround were the operating system of that infrastructure, the specific places within the mall where the social and cultural work actually happened, where identity was tried on and purchased and worn out into the world.
When those stores closed, something of that infrastructure closed with them.
The mall did not immediately die. That process took another decade and a half and is still ongoing in many markets.
But the specific thing that merrygoround had provided affordable access to cultural belonging for teenagers and young adults who had very little else to spend on becoming themselves. That thing did not find a clean replacement. The brands that succeeded merry-goround were better businesses in most respects. They were more adaptable, more financially disciplined, better managed for the long term. But they were not the same thing.
They serve similar needs in a different register without the specific energy, the specific cultural embeddedness, the specific sense of shared ownership that had made Maryound feel to an entire generation like their store. That generation grew up. The stores they had loved closed and the malls that had housed those stores aged into something different, quieter, emptier, more complicated in their relationship to the communities around them. The story of merrygoround is in the end a story about timing about what happens when a brand is built perfectly for a specific moment and what happens when that moment ends before the brand has learned to exist without it. Movement one, the memory. It is a Saturday afternoon in 1987.
You are standing just inside the entrance of a store in a mall that smells like soft pretzels and department store perfume and the particular industrial warmth of a building that has been full of people since 10:00 in the morning. The music reaches you before anything else. Not background music, not the kind of sound designed to be ignored, but something with genuine intention behind it, played at a volume that tells you without words that this space is alive and that you are welcome in it. The racks in front of you are dense with color, not the muted, careful palette of a store trying to appeal to everyone. Bold color, committed color, the kind of color that makes a decision about itself and asks you to make one, too.
Acidwash denim catching the light.
Blazers with shoulders wide enough to mean something. Jewelry and plastic and chrome stacked in open bins that invite handling. Everything within reach.
Everything priced for someone whose budget is real, but whose aspirations are not required to match it. You are 17 or 22 or somewhere in between. Old enough to have your own money. Young enough to still be figuring out who you are. And this store on this Saturday afternoon in this mall in whatever American suburb you called home is one of the places where that figuring out happens. Not dramatically, not with any particular ceremony, just quietly, practically in the ordinary way that identity is assembled. One purchase at a time, one Saturday at a time, one reflection in a fitting room mirror at a time. You find something. You try it on.
You look at yourself and for a moment a small unremarkable completely ordinary moment. You look exactly like who you were trying to become. Movement two. The meaning merrygoround was never described in its own lifetime as a cultural institution. It was a mall store. It sold clothes. It was staffed by teenagers and managed by people in their 20s and owned by a company in Maryland that was trying, like all companies, to grow its revenue and expand its footprint and return value to its investors.
None of that language captures what it actually was. What it actually was, what it functioned as in the lives of the people who used it was a democratic space. A place where the distance between who you were and who you wanted to be could be measured in dollars rather than in the kind of social and economic capital that in most areas of American life determines access to aspiration.
You did not need to be wealthy to shop at Merrygoround. You did not need to live in the right neighborhood or know the right people or have a mother who had a charge account at the right department store. You needed a part-time job in a Saturday afternoon and a willingness to try something on. That simplicity was not accidental. Harold Goldberg had built the company on the premise that teenagers deserved better than the retail industry had been giving them. that the desire to look good, to feel current, to participate in the cultural moment of your own youth was not a luxury that should be rationed according to household income. For 25 years, the company delivered on that premise imperfectly and inconsistently in the way that all large organizations deliver on their founding premises, but genuinely and at scale in a way that shaped the lives of millions of Americans. The teenagers who found their first concert outfit at Merrygoround are grandparents now or close to it. The young adults who worked the Saturday shifts and folded the denim and helped strangers find the right thing to wear to the right occasion have spent the decades since building careers and raising families in the ordinary American way. The malls where those stores lived have changed beyond recognition. Some of them demolished, some of them converted into distribution centers or medical facilities or apartments. Some of them still operating in the diminished complicated form of the contemporary American mall. What has not changed is the memory. Not just the specific sensory memory. The music, the lights, the smell of new fabric in an air conditioned space. Though those memories are real and persistent in the people who carry them. the deeper memory. The memory of what it felt like to be young in America in a particular decade when a particular kind of store existed in a particular kind of place.
And when the act of walking in and finding something that cost $20 and made you look like yourself was enough, enough to justify the trip. Enough to make the Saturday feel like it had been spent well. enough to carry forward into the weeks that followed as a small private confirmation that the version of yourself you were working toward was achievable. That feeling, specific, affordable, genuinely democratic, is what Merrygoround provided and what nothing has quite provided in the same way since. The brands that replaced it are better businesses. They have survived longer, managed their finances more carefully, adapted more successfully to the changing landscape of American retail. They deserve the credit that competent, durable businesses deserve. But they did not inherit what Maryound had built in the emotional geography of the generation that grew up with it. the specific sense of ownership, of recognition, of being seen and served by a store that felt like it had been built for you rather than for the broadest possible demographic cross-section of the American consumer. That specific thing ended in 1996.
It has not been rebuilt. Movement three, the farewell. There are places that matter beyond what they were designed to do. Merry-goround was designed to sell clothes. It succeeded at that for a quarter of a century before it failed spectacularly and swiftly in the way that businesses sometimes fail when the world they were built for changes faster than they can follow. The failure was real. The mismanagement was real. The decisions that accelerated the collapse were made by real people who should in some cases have known better. None of that diminishes what was built. The founders who opened a small store in a New Jersey mall in 1968 and believed against the indifference of an industry that had not bothered to take teenagers seriously that there was a better way to serve them. They built something that lasted 27 years and touched the lives of millions of people. The workers who showed up every Saturday and every back to school season and every holiday rush and kept those stores alive through their daily labor. They built something too. Something less visible but no less real in the customers who walked through those doors across three decades and found in the ordinary transaction of buying a jacket or a pair of jeans a moment of genuine self-recognition.
They were part of building it as well.
What gets lost in the language of business failure, the bankruptcy filings, the liquidation sales, the retail industry post-mortems is the human weight of what those stores represented to the people who love them.
Not the brand exactly, not the corporate entity, but the specific places, the specific Saturdays, the specific feeling of finding the right thing at the right price and carrying it out into a life that was still being assembled.
Somewhere tonight, someone is describing to their grandchild what it felt like to walk into a mall store in 1985 and spend their entire week's earnings on a jacket that made them feel for the first time like the person they had been trying to become. The grandchild will not fully understand. The store is gone. The mall has changed. The decade is history. And the feeling that particular unre repeatable feeling belongs to a world that no longer exists in the same form.
But the way it is described will say everything. The specific warmth in the voice, the small pause before the right word arrives. The slight shift in posture that happens when a person returns briefly to a memory that still holds heat after 40 years. That is what Maryound built in the end. Not a retail empire, not a balance sheet, not a legacy of sound strategic decision-making.
It built moments, millions of them, in hundreds of malls across three decades for a generation of Americans who were young and uncertain and looking for a place that told them they were worth dressing well. It told them, they remembered. And some things once built into the memory of a generation do not disappear when the doors close. They just become something else. Quieter, more personal, carried forward in the ordinary way that the most important things always are. Not in headlines, not in history books, in the way a person's voice changes when they tell the
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