Harar, Ethiopia, is a UNESCO World Heritage city and one of Islam's four holiest cities, featuring 82 mosques and 400 shrines within its walled old town. The city has unique cultural practices including eating rocks for medicinal purposes, feeding hyenas that roam the streets as neighbors, and consuming camel meat as a traditional dish. The city is famous for its chat (a stimulant plant) and coffee culture, with nearly 100 mosques calling to prayer simultaneously. Despite being a Muslim city, Harar has a surprisingly friendly atmosphere where people readily share their culture and traditions with visitors.
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This City Makes No Sense 🇪🇹本站添加:
Nothing about this city makes sense.
You eat rock.
I came to Ethiopia for its Orthodox Christian history. But here I am in Harar, one of Islam's most important cities. Over the next 48 hours, I'm going to learn why hyenas roam the streets. Everyone wants a photo. And I keep ending up at weddings.
Habibi.
>> Habibi.
>> This is the chat. Yeah. Just chewy.
Chewy. Chewy. Never sleep.
After 2 hours on the road, I finally make it to Harar, where I meet Henok, my guide for the next few days. He brings me to the nicest hotel in town, and we agree to meet the next morning.
I figure I'll just relax and grab something to eat. There's a lot of noise downstairs. I'm going to go investigate.
>> It's going to be a big party tonight. I can tell.
>> Oh, look at this.
>> Beautiful.
>> Yes. R city.
>> R city.
>> R city.
>> I haven't even unpacked yet. And now I'm at dinner with strangers.
This trip is already taking on a life of its own.
Good morning from Har. In most Muslim cities, you will hear the call to prayer five times a day, including around 5:00 a.m. or 6:00 a.m. whenever the sun rises, and it normally goes for about I don't know 5 minutes. This one has been going on for about an hour and a half, and it's beautiful. On our way to the old city, Hanok casually says, "Har is the fourth holiest city in Islam." And inside these walls are 82 mosques and 400 shrines. I'd never even heard of this place a week ago.
We cannot start the day without trying some traditional food. What makes this breakfast different than what you'd have in the rest of Ethiopia?
>> You can get it only in har. And what's it called?
>> Fatira. Egg mixed with a pancake. I hope you love it.
This is the most famous breakfast in Har.
>> Okay, welcome to Harava.
>> Am I saying it wrong?
>> No, you are right. Good morning, >> Fatira.
>> It looks like a piece of art.
Unlike anything I've ever had. Like an egg wrapped in a tortilla, except the tortilla is cooked with the egg. Super unique. Super delicious. All right, so that beautiful meal cost 200 Burr, which is about uh about $150. I'm a second.
Thank you.
>> So, this is a monument to commemorate all five gates to the old city. All the gates lead to this central location right here.
>> And it's guarded, as you can see, by a guy with a machine gun.
>> Salamo. Salo. Ah, so most of the time you're not allowed to film when there's a police officer, especially one carrying a machine gun, but this guy is super nice. I'm a saganala.
We've walked through one of the gates, but hopefully in this video, we'll go through the other four. In horror, even policemen, they are more friendly and associable.
>> I've noticed that already.
>> Har is different.
>> There are five main gates. Mhm. Also, there are seven small holes to enter.
Hyena.
>> Hyenas.
>> Hyenas. Yeah.
>> Hyenas enter the old town.
>> Yes.
>> Whenever they want.
>> Whenever they want.
>> Where do they come from?
>> Just from bushes around here. They came and uh they grab every trashes from the old town. So, they clean our city.
>> I love Ethiopia. Every day there's something new and interesting.
>> In Harar, people refer to hyenas as neighbors. We'll see about that tonight.
So, we went out here, then we walked around, and then we came in through the hyena entrance, and now we are around here.
>> Yeah, around here.
>> So, once you come into this part, it's very calm. You can't get any motorbikes or any cars in here. It's just the conversations of the locals.
>> I think I heard there are some wedding here.
>> Is there a wedding in here?
>> Yeah, this from there.
>> Then we can go in.
>> Oh, awesome.
This is free.
How are you doing, man?
>> I'm doing good.
>> Where are you from?
>> I'm from California.
>> California.
>> Yeah.
>> Thank you.
>> How come I'm here? Who brought you here?
My friend over there.
Father, we love you.
Super cool.
>> I have a very important question for you.
>> Where's the women?
>> They are celebrating this for 3 days.
>> Uh-huh.
>> So, the last day the woman and the man is coming.
>> I saw a wedding last night at the hotel >> and it was women and men.
>> That is the last day.
>> Okay. So, those people at the wedding last night may have had something traditional like this to start.
>> Yeah. To start >> reconciled.
>> Reconcile Street.
>> Yep. That's what >> Will you walk down with me?
>> This is Ahmed and Phil walking through the most narrow street in town. Everyone here is super friendly. Salam.
>> My name is Honey.
>> Honey. Honey. High five. My name is Phillip.
>> Phillip.
>> Yes. Nice to meet you. Okay. Bye, honey.
>> So, this is actually a small mosque.
>> Yeah. A small mosque.
>> How do we know it's a mosque?
>> With a color white.
>> Green.
>> Green.
>> So, if it's white with green, it means it's a mosque. There's a number up here.
It says 56.6.
>> There are more than 89 mosques in Old Savan. This one is 56.
>> Is this a private mosque?
>> There is no private.
>> Okay. So, so we can walk in.
>> I think it's closed. They open it for praying time.
>> How many people does it hold?
>> 20 to 30.
>> So, it's very small.
>> Small.
>> Remember chat from earlier? Turns out it's highly addictive. And in the afternoon, it pretty much takes over the city.
>> Oh my god. So this is all chat. It's a frenzy for chat.
>> All these crowded people waiting for this chat.
>> This is all chat.
>> Everyone have it own customer.
>> Look at these giant bags of chat.
There's kilos. Yeah. 10 kilo. 10 kilo.
We've got one, two, three, four. Is this the store? The chat store?
>> Yeah.
2,000 B per sack.
>> Yeah.
>> Give me the money.
>> Give you the money?
>> Yeah.
>> You want all the money for all the chat?
>> 2,000.
>> It's okay.
>> You told him you are giving money.
>> No, >> I didn't say anything.
>> I didn't tell him I was giving him money.
>> I just were just walking by. I totally >> I never said I was giving him any money.
Let's go.
>> Bye-bye.
>> That was crazy. I didn't tell him I was going to give him money.
>> He just assumed.
>> Walking through town, Hanok runs into an old friend.
>> You're a famous singer.
>> Yes.
>> Could you sing me a song, please?
>> Uh, about Joo is the old town. JLE.
Yes. Yes.
>> My friend, my brother, this you need help.
>> I'll make it loose for you and then you can put it around your neck. You're just going to go like this. Okay.
>> Okay. So, I've tied the tie now. Like that. We need to get it underneath your collar.
I've never done that before.
>> Thank you. Pleasure. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
>> My pleasure. Enjoy your Sunday.
>> Welcome to Jo. And welcome. Welcome.
>> Har was once a very powerful kingdom ruled for centuries by Muslim leaders called Amirs. this place. He is a founder of Harat in 12th century.
>> And his tomb is here.
>> Yeah, his tomb is here.
Okay. So, I just spent a few minutes inside of this shrine. I'm not allowed to video inside out of respect, but I'll tell you what I saw. There's one main room with a big tomb. It's kind of covered in green padding. Besides the main tomb, there are several small rooms. You can smell the incense from the doorway here. What I'm seeing right now are men on the floor just relaxing.
They're not praying. They're just kind of on the floor eating chat. And then there's a guy pulverizing chat. I'm not sure why, but he's been doing it for quite some time. As you can see, people are leaving the tomb right now. They've paid their respects to the founder.
Mash oh hey mash border of Kenya you know >> all the way here to go to this shrine.
>> Yeah.
>> Why is the founder of Harar so important?
>> Because he is one of the scholar of Islam.
>> Okay. So it goes beyond har. It goes into Islam. Okay my brother.
>> Okay. Thank you.
>> Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
>> On our way to lunch. I can't help but notice how much Harar leans into its identity.
Everywhere I look are murals, painted walls, and little reminders of the city's traditions.
They call it a living museum. Now I understand why. Pretty much every house has some decoration on the outside.
>> Yes. Hari traditional basket to put bread in different things. If you enter Hari traditional house, all wall >> Uhhuh. you will see such decoration.
>> Okay guys, so it's time for lunch and we're going to go eat some camel. As you can see, the living museum is alive and well, and they're promoting it everywhere. You would think with all this self-promotion that Harar would be a bigger stop on the tourist trail in Ethiopia. Is that camel that we smell?
>> Yeah.
>> Really? Oh, this is the camel meat.
>> Yeah.
>> Enjoy. Yeah. Enjoy.
>> It smells delicious.
>> Guys, this is all camel meat behind me.
>> Is this like a select cut of the camel here? Is this maybe the the stomach or do you know what what we're looking at here?
>> It's the hump. Oh, yeah. There we go.
Perfect. We're going to buy some camel right behind me. And then if I swing the camera around in front of me, this is where they cook it over here.
So, it's a two-part process. You buy the meat over there and you bring it to these ladies to cook.
I'll bring my camel.
I just wanted to point out these birds behind us. They're waiting for scraps and they're waiting for any chance to get in on some of this meat action.
Hello. I love you.
>> Thank you.
>> So, we bought some meat for the birds.
You're the birdman of Harar.
>> Oh, hey.
>> Spare meat doesn't just feed the birds.
It also goes to Harard's most famous residents.
Camel meat. There's some chili in there.
And there's some rosemary.
>> Yeah, >> this is in jera. It's fermented yeast and you use it to basically pick up your food. And that's why you need to wash your hands before you eat.
>> Oh, it tastes delicious. Honestly, you would never know that this is camel. Dig in, my friend.
So, the camel cost 800 Burr, which is around $5. And then the cooking was 200 Burr, which is another $1.50, give or take $8 for that meal for two people.
All right, let's take a moment to appreciate the sounds here.
All of the nearly 100 mosques in this small town are all doing the call to prayer at once. It's quite a humbling experience to walk around here during this time. Each of the houses or each of the stores have these wood covered canopies. Will you find that in other parts of Ethiopia?
>> No, only in Har.
>> Is there a significance to this?
>> Maybe it connect with Arabian and the Indian architecture.
>> Beautiful Muslim Harari dress here.
doing some alterations around in the street.
>> Is this chat?
>> Yeah, it's chat.
>> Chat. GPT.
>> I think he >> Hello.
>> He's a little bit mad, I think. Okay.
>> Chat makes you >> makes a little crazy.
>> If you eat every day.
>> Yeah.
>> Your energy is very high for every day.
So, you lost your energy for the physical.
>> What's he saying?
>> No, just he's talking.
>> Bonina. meaningless things, I think.
>> Is he selling the chats or is he just eating all of that?
>> No, he's going to eat.
>> He's going to eat all of that.
>> No, this is a small, by the way.
>> That's a small amount.
>> Yeah, for one person it's a small amount.
>> Oh my god. A half of one would keep me up all night. Look at this. Wow.
>> Here, people chew a lot.
>> Does he ever sleep?
>> That's why he's acting like this.
>> And this is kind of like one of the biggest chat producing regions in the world. Har is known by chats and the coffee.
>> Oh, hello.
>> Adina adina >> ad >> friendly people.
>> Do you taste rock in your life?
>> You eat rock?
>> Yes.
>> Will you try the rock?
>> Yeah. Okay. Try the rock.
Is it good?
>> Is good rock.
>> So what do they use this rock for?
>> For medication purpose. For stomach problem. Something like that. Really?
>> It's good. Yeah.
>> And how much rock would you take? Like would you eat this much?
>> Oh my goodness.
>> Let's see.
>> Oh, very strong.
Oh, it gives you a baby >> or it's good when you're pregnant for every stomach problem. It's good.
>> Can I try?
>> Yeah.
>> It tastes like dirt.
I don't want to get pregnant. Well, let's see what else we have here.
Oh, >> awesome. What is her name? Isa, >> you know bigger.
>> Bye-bye. Bye. Bye.
>> How do you see?
>> How do I see Har?
>> I love it.
>> Okay, so this was another small moss that we were looking for. number 32.
But unfortunately, it's closed just like all the other ones.
>> It's not that important.
>> Can you get us inside the mosque?
>> No.
>> Before 3 years, old tower looked like this.
>> Like this?
>> Yeah, there's a big difference.
>> Uh yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> Well, I enjoy it now.
>> Nice. Thank you.
>> Harard today looks beautiful, but at the same time unfinished. One alley is fully restored while the next remains frozen in time. It feels like the city is constantly evolving.
They're actually making the new murals here. And this is going to be Oh, hey, you're the artist. It's beautiful. How long will this take you to make?
>> Five or 7 days.
>> These are your paints right here?
>> Yep.
>> Your plan is to paint the entire town.
>> Yes.
>> Oh, wow. That'd be amazing. So, you're not Muslim?
>> So, you Christian? Yeah.
>> Okay. I hope you enjoy that video. I had a really, really nice time meeting all the people in Mescal Square. Nice to meet you, man. Nice to meet you.
>> Welcome to Harala.
>> We have a chat seller right here on the street.
>> You can find those on any corner. So, these ladies here always in this spot.
>> Yes.
>> Are you chewing?
>> No. Okay. Yeah. That That's why you have good teeth.
Up until this moment, we've been locked out of every single mosque. But finally, this one is open.
In a city this religious, I'm not sure what to expect. So, this is the largest mosque in Oldtown or all of Har >> in Oldtown.
>> Pretty dark in here. Yeah.
Let's see here.
So, a man just came up to me inside and basically kicked me out. He saw me taking video of inside of the mosque and basically said, "If you're doing a documentary, you need to get permission." And I said, "I'm just doing it for YouTube, just for me, but out of respect, you got to leave." So, I got a few shots. I enjoyed looking at it. Um, certainly beautiful as they all are. I'm not Muslim and I've been to mosques in the most holy places in the world in in Iraq in Iran. I've been in the blue mosque in Turkey. Is it always like that here?
>> It is depend on the person at that time there.
>> So it was just one person who was very sensitive.
>> Yeah.
>> Okay.
>> Welcome to the UNESCO World Heritage City of Construction.
I'm told that this is like a bar, but it's not going to be serving alcohol.
Right.
>> They have alcohol.
>> They have alcohol.
>> Yeah.
>> I thought this was a strictly Muslim city.
>> It's not recommended, but still there is a place to drink.
>> Can we take a look?
>> Yeah.
>> Beer.
All right.
Thank you. Thank you. Not only can you buy beer, but it's actually named Har beer.
>> It's good.
>> I like it.
>> Like this.
This was about the last thing I expected in her arc. But it's Ethiopia. Anything can happen around any corner. See for yourself, guys. Walk into a strange place. You never know what you'll find.
And the fun does not stop here. After about an hour break, I'm going to put raw meat on a stick from my mouth and feed it to a hyena.
Bye-bye.
All right, guys. After a delicious dinner and a very short rest, we are back out on the town. It looks completely different. And take a look at this. You can see the gate is lit up as well. But we're not here to go to Oldtown. We're here for a very special purpose and one purpose only. And that's to see about some hyenas. Let's go. Yala >> Habibi.
I didn't actually explain it too much, but we're going to visit the hyenas that have been living together with the people for hundreds, thousands of years.
>> Maybe also hyena massage. You will take hyena.
>> Hyena massage. Okay. All right. I don't know what that is, but you're a very wellorganized hyena man.
>> My name is Abas.
>> Okay. We've got a VIP pass. You thought of everything of us. We have to show this to the hyenas.
>> Yeah.
>> Look at all them.
>> Okay. I think he's bringing out the special meat.
>> Oh, so they take this from the butcheries.
He's really trying to get him going.
Look at them. Oh, they're kind of fighting each other.
We're going in.
>> There are hyenas all around me. Oh my god. They're right here.
>> All this meat here.
>> Camel.
>> It's camel meat.
>> Goats.
>> It's a mix of it. Mix it.
>> Wow. They're very lucky hyenas.
>> Oh my god. Come on. It's delicious. It's It's raw meat.
>> He's going.
>> Oh, hey.
There are two or three hyenas around me, but none of them will take my meat. I never thought I'd ever say that. I'm afraid, too.
>> More is coming.
>> More is coming.
>> Okay. Ready? Uhhuh. Oh.
Wow.
>> Oh, come on. You know you love it.
>> Come on. Here we go.
>> Oh, he's so gentle.
>> Oh, can you take one photo?
>> Good morning everyone from day two in Harar. We're going to spend most of the day outside of the city in the countryside. But first, >> meats.
>> Just raw meat.
>> Oh, you're going to have raw meat.
>> There's five of them preparing the raw meat because it's big business here in Ethiopia.
>> Do you feel like an animal?
>> No, I'm stronger. Taste it.
>> Taste it.
>> Oh my god. I eat my meat. well done at home. So, this is a big deal for me.
Here we go. Raw meat in Ethiopia >> today. I'm leaving all the planning to Hanukkah. Good idea.
>> So, now we have to take a tuk tuk to get to the car.
>> This the car?
>> Yes.
>> VIP style.
>> You sure it actually works? The hood is up.
>> Yes.
>> Is that how you get the car ready? It is.
>> This car for the day is costing me $40 inshallah if it makes it VIP style.
Hooray.
God help us.
I just crossed myself. I've never done that before. Look at this old safety belt. It's like an airplane.
How old is this car?
>> 75.
>> 75 years old.
>> Older than you?
>> Yes.
>> Is this like your grandfather's car?
>> Yeah.
>> They don't make cars like they used to.
off.
>> Okay. Yeah.
>> I wasn't expecting a police check.
>> Hey, byebye. See you.
>> Wait, why the police checkpoints?
Where exactly is Hanukk taking me?
All right, guys. We are now deep into the Ethiopian countryside and we are very close to the Somalia region where we will attempt to buy a camel.
>> Is he really taking me to buy a camel?
>> On the side of the road, you see colorfully dressed women with donkeys, horses. There's some cows on the side of the road. We even saw a dead hyena. Is this the gateway to Somalia?
>> This is Somali territory. And we have to change our >> crazy people.
>> The crazy people. Here we go. We got to put them away.
>> Salo.
>> Gala. Gala.
>> Gala.
>> Gala.
>> Gala.
>> Okay.
That was the police checkpoint to get into the Somalia region. Here they don't like Americans. So today I'm going to be Canadian just for my safety, I'm told.
>> We're getting closer to Somalia and I'm seeing these round kind of huts on the side of the road. What are they?
>> It's like a refugee house. It's temporary houses >> and they're coming from Somalia.
>> From Somalia in the Aromia region.
>> And it looks like there's a bunch of fabric on the outside. They're all over the place.
So, the main house is locked, but the kitchen appears to be open. Let's take a look inside.
Oh, wow. Okay. So, you can see the cooking area over there. There's some hay or some sort of grass.
Good morning from the Babille Camel Market.
>> No, this is just for Al Jazzer.
>> I'm kidding.
The locals think I'm a journalist and that's not good.
>> Alazer, >> do you think if I was Al Jazzer I would have this tiny camera?
>> How much?
>> 1,000.
>> I'm not so sure about this. I've been to camel markets in Aratria in Somali land and I've never had to pay to enter the camel market, but I guess here I do.
Surprising.
>> Can I walk?
>> Okay, here we go. We are parting the sea of camels.
I hope they don't kick. Watch out, guys.
Coming through.
>> You know Canada?
>> Yes, I know Canada.
>> Do you know my hometown? It's Toronto.
>> Toronto and Ottawa.
>> Ottawa.
>> Are you enjoying that?
>> You don't have hair on your arms?
I'm about to try to negotiate the best price on the biggest camel. Let's go. Is this an owner of one of the camels?
>> Yes, he's owner of the camel.
>> Which one is your camel?
>> He's not okay.
>> He's not okay.
>> Okay.
Handshake.
>> No handshake. Sorry. Okay.
>> Okay.
>> Okay.
She doesn't think I'm serious about buying. Which one is her count?
17. This one is her camel.
>> Yeah. All number 17 is >> Oh, there's a bunch of 17s.
>> Number 17.
>> Yeah.
>> How many camels?
>> And Wow.
>> Seven.
>> Seven camels. How much for this camel?
This one?
>> Oh, 140,000.
>> That's like $1,000. I guess it would be more expensive for me to buy one in Canada. How about 100,000?
Okay, we're bargaining here.
>> No, she said 120.
>> 110 >> for 110.
>> Yes, >> she said 120.
>> Which one?
>> Number 17. The big one.
>> 140,000.
>> 140,000. The price is going up.
>> Does she have names for her camels?
>> Yes.
>> What's her favorite camel's name?
Super. Are any of the camels named Phillip?
>> Yes.
>> Yeah.
>> Which one?
>> This one's named Phillip.
>> Yeah. If I spend 140,000, I can name him Phillip.
>> Yeah.
>> Okay.
>> Yeah. I'm sorry. It's too much money.
How would I get the camel back to Canada anyways?
>> Look at those teeth.
Oh my god.
>> Wow.
>> Why does he dye his hair orange?
>> Our kaj.
>> But you do not have orange hair. Only this man and one or two other men have seen.
>> Old man is culture >> for old men.
>> For young.
>> Okay. Well, this guy next to him is a little bit older. Maybe you should borrow some of his hair dye. Is that a good idea?
>> Okay. So, it's not just a camel market.
You have guys. Okay. Sorry.
>> Look at how cute. Hi guys.
>> A lot of screaming around here.
>> Somali sheep.
>> Somali sheep with the black face. So this guy is You'll only find this type of goat here in the Somali region.
>> Do you do want to say something, buddy?
Salamkum.
>> How much for the goat?
>> 7,000 B.
>> 7,000 B.
>> Yeah.
>> Does it include shipping back to Canada, >> guys? The camels are making their way out of the market. I'm not sure where they're going.
I think they're scared of the sticks.
Here they come. It's okay.
>> This is awesome.
That's where you coming from.
>> CNN news.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> No CNN.
>> Hey, some sort of argument going on. Who sold the most?
Okay.
>> What's this place called?
>> Babilia. Bilia.
>> Babil. Babil. Babil. Babil.
>> Bab.
>> What is Babil?
>> This town is Babil.
>> What is Babil? This guy's crazy. Bab.
Bab.
>> Bab.
>> I'm so stupid.
>> Not stupid. It's my specialtity. Yes, being stupid is my speciality.
>> Your speciality.
>> For some reason, people are watching. I don't know why.
>> On our way home, Hano says we must make a detour.
Ladies and gentlemen, the welcoming committee. They got a bunch of peanuts from that truck and they are loving it.
Look at them.
Oh wow, there's three babies.
This part of Babille is called the Valley of the Marvels. And the reason why is because you see all these interestingly shaped rock formations like that one up there, Hanok. What do they call that one?
>> Dick Rock.
>> The dick rock.
>> Yes.
>> So, we're basically following the baboons.
Have you ever been up here?
>> Every time.
>> Okay, good.
>> This way.
>> Yeah, just around here. You can't take >> Oh, you're taking a piss. Yeah, I don't need to be showing that.
So, this right here would be one of the favorite foods of the baboons.
There's a huge rock here that we're going to climb up. and get an awesome view.
Oh my god, I didn't know I was going to be rock climbing today. If you're looking for easy tourism on my channel, you've come to the wrong place. And up. Thank you.
All the way up. You going up this rock?
>> Yeah. Okay, my friend.
>> We're a couple >> finally crazy raw meat eating baboons.
>> Are you happy?
>> Very happy.
Yes. And now back to Har for some lunch.
We're going to see a lot of other cool things that we didn't see yesterday.
I'm so out of breath.
>> Oh, sorry. 75y old car. We don't We don't want to break it.
>> Very local place.
>> Very local place.
>> For breakfast, I showed you raw meat, but for lunch, we're actually in a completely vegetarian restaurant.
We need this. We are disgusting. What's going on?
>> We have camel, cactus, >> cactus, camel, goat. That was super delicious. Thank you for taking me here.
I would have never found this place on my own. The crazy part was that entire meal was 300 Burr, >> which is $2.
>> Okay, guys. This is gate number three.
It's the Eddar gate and it it leads to a completely different part of the old town. So, we're going to take this opportunity to walk around this new part of town and hopefully find an open small mosque.
>> Also, I think it's open.
>> It's open.
>> Yeah.
>> Hallelujah.
>> Hallelujah.
>> No hallelujah.
>> No. No. Hallelujah.
>> No. Hallelujah. The mosque. Mashallah.
>> Mashallah.
>> Yeah. Get your religion straight, Phil.
Oh, shoes. Oh, shoes. Oh my god. Oh my god. Sorry. Sorry. Sorry. This guy was sleeping in. How do you say I'm sorry?
>> Def.
>> Oh my god. Okay, let's take the shoes off.
>> Very very tight quarters here.
We have to >> also the guy told us that this is the first mosque in Har.
>> The guy who's sleeping just told us that this is actually the first mosque in Har.
>> Yeah, >> this is not a very large mosque, but because there's 80 plus mosques in such a small area, it doesn't need to be big.
You've got one every block here in the old town.
places for people to clean up, wash up and then traditional white and turquoise of Harar.
>> All right. So, even the women are happy to take photos here. In fact, these women came up to me and asked for a photo. Oh wow. Look, this is the henna tattoo. Very very beautiful.
>> Traditional tattoo.
>> Your name?
>> Arafat.
>> Arafat.
>> My name is Phillip.
>> All right guys, we have arrived at the entrance to a traditional house. This is our opportunity to see how people live here.
>> Very strong wood.
>> Yeah, I bet.
>> This is the original Hari people. They have the same houses like this. Everyone Sitting platform it is like uh showing the hierarchy of the family.
>> So different levels mean different importance in the family.
>> Yes. Head of family he sit over there on the top.
>> But that's a a big area only for one person >> only for one person and for a respected person only >> 99 pieces of wood on the roof.
>> Yes. It represents the name of Allah.
When woman's get birth, she slept there inside >> inside of the washing machine.
>> No, inside that room.
>> Oh, there's a room behind here.
>> Yeah, there is a room.
>> There's nobody giving birth now, is there?
>> No.
>> Okay.
>> So, this is the delivery room.
>> You can't enter when she inside because to stop contamination.
>> So, this is literally where they give birth. If they're not doing it in a hospital, they do it here.
>> No, after birth.
>> Right after they give birth, they stay here.
>> There's an upstairs. upstairs for honeymoon.
>> After they get married, he and his wife live up here >> for short period.
>> After they move out, what do they use this upstairs for?
>> If there is no one is married, it stay empty.
>> Empty. It's only for honeymoons.
>> Only for honeymoon.
>> That's very odd.
>> Yeah, >> they should Airbnb it.
>> What happens when you talk to strangers in every country in the world? It's usually not what you think.
Nose.
>> Nose. Ears.
>> Ears.
>> Smile.
>> Ah, very good. Very good. My name is Phillip.
>> Farangi.
>> My name is My name is Super Farangi.
There you go.
>> You don't want my hat backwards.
>> Bye-bye.
>> Bye-bye.
I love you.
>> It's really hot here in Har so these giant trees are very welcoming. How are you?
>> My friend, >> you know, >> this is your elementary school.
>> My elementary school. All these guys here, I know them from childhood life.
>> It's really nice to have those friends.
I have four or five that I've kept in touch with my whole life and that's it's really special.
>> So this is your school.
>> When I was in the age of this guy.
>> Yeah.
>> I have many memories in this compound.
>> Do you remember the first word you learned of English?
>> Okay.
>> Okay. What is this on the side? Is this a >> It's like code of student or something like that.
>> All over Ethiopia there's a lot of construction. I saw it in AIS but it's happening here too.
>> Everywhere in the country.
>> Okay. We are in the classroom right now.
>> You're saying nothing's changed.
>> Nothing has changed.
>> You You really think you put your name here? What are you doing? You're writing your name again.
>> Yes. Again after 30 years.
Who knows if the internet will be there or YouTube, but that will still be there forever.
>> Another day, another Beaker adventure.
>> For how many years?
>> I've had Beaker 26 years >> and now he's been to 160 countries.
>> You are okay to talk with me?
>> Me.
That's what he says.
>> Prepare for your life to change.
This reminds me of uh one of the palaces that I saw in Pakistan and also in Iran.
It really has that inlaid wood with the stained glass. It really reminds me of Iran actually.
>> Why was a French poet living in Harar?
>> Because he love Harar.
>> Uhhuh.
>> Also he participate with trading something like that with Arabia.
>> Wow. Look at this room.
Harrar just keeps getting better. This is one of the most beautiful views and one of the most beautiful houses.
You were saying earlier that all of Ethiopia is under construction.
>> Yes.
>> And now I believe you >> smuggler market.
>> Smuggler market.
>> Legally from Somalia.
>> If it's known as the smugglers market, >> how do they allow it?
>> Yeah. I It's confused.
>> It's confusing.
>> Oh. sewer.
>> Whoa.
Okay, we've got some holes. Oh, you're going to do it right now. How much?
>> 100.
>> 100. Okay. And at home, I would have had to wait a week for this to be done. And here, I just walked down the street and there's a guy on the side. I didn't even know how to describe his little office here.
>> Finished.
>> Wow. I'm Miss Saganala.
>> Oh, so this is where the market was.
>> Yes. Very crowded.
>> And now there's no market.
>> No market because of constructions.
>> There's where the market would be. And here's kind of like some of the people that normally would be selling in the market. They've made their own kind of temporary makeshift fruit stand here.
It's pretty awesome.
Har is not only known by hyena. Har is known by also by fruit production.
>> Little watermelons here.
>> Oh, don't worry. Don't worry. Okay, Fanjo's in town. Hey.
>> Oh my god. The people in Ethiopia are the best. They really are. And whoever says that you can't talk and film people in Har, they don't know what they're talking about.
Thank you very much. You are you are coming here Ethiopia and visiting us.
She's very excited to be that you are here.
>> I love you.
>> I love you.
>> All right. Just down the block from the fruit market is a spice market. I could smell it already. Let's go.
>> Is this the rock that you eat?
>> No. No. Smoke. It's for smoking.
>> When people make coffee ceremony.
>> Oh, okay.
>> This is coffee.
>> Coffee.
>> Oh, wow.
>> Yeah. The special coffee.
>> Special coffee. Why is it special?
>> Because it's very sweet.
>> Sweet coffee.
>> Sweet coffee.
>> Only from Har.
>> From Har. Only from Har. Yeah.
>> This must be the uh the very popular spice salesman cuz it's super super crowded over here. We've got ladies with stuff on their head. There's so much action going on in this very, very small corridor here.
Everybody is coughing. Oh, that's what's happening.
>> Oh my god. It's these chilies. Wa. We cannot stay here very long.
>> Especially this one.
>> Oh, really?
>> All right. We should get out OF HERE.
IT'S ARE YOU OKAY?
>> YES.
>> SALAMU.
>> WELL, OKAY. Now I can breathe again.
I >> still have it. Maybe if I take some rosemary. Ah, it's good. I wonder how much this cost.
>> 20.
>> 20 burr.
>> Yes.
>> That is about 30.
>> You know how much this would cost back home? Uhhuh.
>> About $10.
They removed the recycling market. Yes.
>> Because they're doing all this construction. Yeah.
>> Oh my goodness. Well, at least I got to see a monster truck clearing the road >> every day.
>> Every day things are changing.
>> Changing. Yeah. Every day.
>> Well, what's this?
>> Smuggler.
>> Smugglers. Is it okay if I film this?
>> Yeah.
>> Vegetable oil is smuggled.
>> Yeah.
>> All of this stuff came from Somalia.
>> From Somalia. Yeah.
>> Is it just cheaper to get it in Somalia than here? Is that why?
>> Very cheap. What's going on over here?
Salamnu.
Salamu. Hi. Hi. This is a used clothes.
>> Yeah, used clothes.
>> This looks like the clothes that they put on the Somalia uh huts.
>> Yeah.
>> I love how they've painted the metal.
>> Thank you, sweetie.
>> Thank you, sweetie. Normally, it's just the regular metal >> and here they've beautified it a bit.
>> I think this all is very beautiful.
Whoa. Whoa.
>> He's eating chats.
>> Yeah. It makes him chat.
>> Oh, the chat is making him crazy.
>> Yeah.
>> Okay. All right. We'll we'll we'll leave you alone. Sorry.
>> Also, the girl is relaxing. He's chatting.
>> I won't bother her. I still don't understand. Chat speeds you up. It makes you stay awake, but yet people here are they're relaxing with it >> because they continue.
>> Okay.
Oh, >> awesome.
Good job. This is all recycled stuff.
>> Okay.
>> What are these? These are like steaks.
>> Yeah. Wow.
>> What do you think is the most popular thing to buy at the recycle market?
>> Farmer.
>> Farming equipment.
>> Yeah. Farming equipment. Yeah.
>> It's very, very heavy.
I'm a saganella.
>> You know what? That's a toilet that Beaker can sit on.
>> Yeah.
>> Crazy fingi.
>> So, we've hit the motherload of recycling. This is where it all happens here. This is a corugated metal.
He measured it here.
>> He measured it here.
>> Yes.
>> Okay.
>> Then they make a price for it.
>> They make a price and people use that for their houses.
>> This is not the Har tour that most YouTubers show you. That's for sure.
Oh, hello.
>> Oh, they are following us.
>> The goats are following us. I don't know where I'm going.
>> Look at them.
They're like, "What is this guy doing?
Maybe he has some food."
Even on the roof, they've got some stuff that they're going to be recycling.
Okay.
>> Okay. It's interesting to me. Wow.
>> Oh, we've got tires over here. We've got metal.
>> Is he saying it's time to leave?
>> Yeah.
>> Okay. Okay.
>> Okay.
I don't think he's ever seen a stick this big before.
>> That's the real deal right there. How are you?
>> I'm fine.
>> Huh? My name is Phillip.
>> Phillip.
>> Phillip.
>> Okay.
>> Your name?
>> My name is Bahar.
>> Abahar.
>> Where come from?
>> I come from USA.
>> USA is this direction?
>> Yeah. USA is that direction.
>> Oh, you know him.
>> Yes, I feel him.
>> You can feel he's got a good smile.
>> Take care. Good luck. Mashallah.
>> So, we are just about at our fifth and final gate over 48 hours.
>> Hello. Hi.
>> My name is Phillip. Your name?
>> Oh, nice. Oh, very strong.
>> Habish Jamaad.
>> Havesh Jamad. Like this?
>> No, like this.
Once again, the white walls with the green doors and the green perimeter.
These are all mosques. This is this is number 73.
So, this is a part of the old town that we have not seen.
>> Yeah, it's different side playing some sort of marble game.
>> We got a fight. We got a fight going. Oh my goodness.
Yeah. Yeah.
>> Time out. Time out. This guy behind me is smoking and chewing chat at the time at the same time. What a life. Right underneath the tree.
>> How are you?
>> I'm good. I'm good. So is this guy's really good. I love how with all the commotion with the kids >> fighting, that guy's just sitting there, >> relaxing, smoking, chewing, chat.
>> Yeah, he he's in his own world.
>> Yeah.
>> My name is Phillip.
>> Hi.
>> Salamu.
>> How are you?
>> I am really, really good.
>> Where do you live?
>> I live in America. California.
>> California. Don't be shy. It's okay.
Where is the masjid?
>> This way.
>> I love harar.
>> I love har.
>> Fenji is the best.
>> Is the best.
>> I love you.
>> I love you.
>> Thank you very much. As I mentioned before, there are 80 plus mosques here in the old town. So, you can imagine they can't all be super giant. This one maybe holds only 10 or 20 people. And it sits right here in the perfect location next to one of the five gates.
This is the Osma Gate. We saw this one yesterday. It's a perfect time of night here. The sun is setting. It's very, very beautiful here in Har right now.
I love her. I love her. I love her.
>> I love her.
>> One more thing. If I had to pick a moment from today that I'll always remember. Out of so many contenders, it wouldn't be the hyenas. It would be this little girl. Her smile stopped me dead in my tracks and solidified Harar as the friendliest city in Ethiopia.
Drop a comment and let me know the one you'll remember. Until next time.
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