There Are Four Rules Near Fort Apache. Breaking One Changes Everything.

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[00:00:00]There is a document in the Bureau of Indian Affairs Regional Archive in Phoenix that was filed in October of 1996.

[00:00:10]It is labeled a field incident summary.

[00:00:13]It runs four pages. The cover sheet lists the location as the Fort Apache Indian Reservation, Apache County, Arizona, approximately 11 miles southeast of White River. The elevation at the primary incident site is noted as 6,840 ft. The filing agency is the Bureau of Indian Affairs, Southwest Region, Division of Natural Resources. The document was assigned file number Bureau of Indian Affairs 96, Arizona 00031.

[00:00:54]Pages 1 through three describe a routine biological survey that encountered logistical complications, equipment loss, personnel disturbance. One crew member temporarily separated from the group. Page four is a summary of findings. The summary concludes that no federal protocols were violated, that the crew acted appropriately given field conditions, and that the incident required no further investigation.

[00:01:25]What the summary does not mention is the track evidence logged on page two. 17 impressions photographed and measured by the crew's lead surveyor. The impressions averaged 19 in in length.

[00:01:40]They sank an average of 31 mm into soil that according to the field notes held a standard survey boot at 9 mm under equivalent pressure. The photographs are referenced in the evidence log. They are not included in the archive file. The summary does not explain why. My name is Daniel Ror. I held a contract position as a senior wildlife biologist with the Bureau of Indian Affairs Southwest Region from 1991 through 2001.

[00:02:15]My work during that period focused on habitat assessment and species inventory on tribal lands across eastern Arizona and western New Mexico. I was not a ranger. I was not law enforcement. I was the person agencies hired when they needed someone to walk a grid, document what lived there, and file a report that would hold up to federal review. I was assigned to the Fort Apache survey in the summer of 1996.

[00:02:47]It was not my first survey on the reservation. It was my fourth. I thought I understood the territory. On my first day on site, a man named Roy Cassador sat across from me at a folding table outside the equipment trailer and told me there were four rules for working in the Eastern Grid sector. He did not read them from a paper. He had them memorized. He said he had been telling new contractors the same four rules for 11 years and that in 11 years no one had listened carefully enough. I am speaking now because someone sent me a copy of that Bureau of Indian Affairs file last spring, a researcher. I do not know how they obtained it. When I saw that the photographs were missing from the archive, I understood that the time for remaining quiet had passed. I have not returned to eastern Arizona since 1996.

[00:03:46]The Fort Apache Indian Reservation covers approximately 1.6 6 million acres across the White Mountains of East Central Arizona. The eastern grid sector where we were working sits at the edge of the reservation's high country in a zone of Ponderosa Pine and Gamble Oak that runs along a series of north-acing ridge lines above the Black River drainage. The nearest paved road at the time was approximately 7 mi west. The nearest structure of any kind was a seasonal grazing shelter that had not been used in at least a decade based on its condition when we passed it on day one. We were a crew of five. Roy Cassador was our tribal liaison assigned by the White Mountain Apache Trib's Department of Natural Resources. He had worked that role for 14 years and knew the reservation's high country the way most people know the layout of their own house. Marcus Whitfield was my co-lead, another contracted biologist out of Flagstaff, methodical and skeptical in the way that good field scientists are.

[00:04:55]Penny Okafer handled GPS logging and soil documentation. She was 28 years old and on her second federal contract.

[00:05:05]Travis Eldrid was our equipment technician, responsible for the transit cases, the generator, the radio relay, and the camp perimeter, which in practice meant he was the one who knew where everything was and what everything cost to replace. We were working a 15-day survey. Our task was to update the habitat classification maps for a roughly four square mile section of the eastern grid that had not been formally assessed since 1988.

[00:05:37]We would walk transsects, document species presence, collect soil cores, photograph terrain features, and log everything into a federal database that three different agencies would eventually review. Our base camp was a cluster of four tents and the equipment trailer set in a clearing at the edge of a meadow. We had a camp stove, a two-way radio with a scheduled check-in at 0700 and again at 1900 and enough provisions for 18 days in case weather or access problems extended our timeline. The routine established itself quickly up before first light. Coffee while the air was still cold and the meadow held its morning stillness into the grid by 7:30.

[00:06:26]Transacts until early afternoon.

[00:06:29]Returned to camp, log data, eat, sleep.

[00:06:33]Travis played cards in the evenings.

[00:06:36]Penny cataloged samples. Marcus and I reviewed the day's measurements against the 88 baseline maps.

[00:06:43]Roy sat outside most evenings, regardless of temperature, facing east.

[00:06:49]The four rules, as Roy stated them that first afternoon, were as follows. Do not go past the dry creek bed after dark. Do not whistle in the eastern grid. If you find a marked stone, leave it exactly where it is and tell him immediately. Do not enter the draw below the second ridge line alone ever for any reason, he said them plainly. He did not elaborate.

[00:07:17]When Marcus asked what the marked stones looked like, Roy described them flat, palmsized, with a particular arrangement of ochre markings that he demonstrated briefly by drawing on a notepad. He tore the page out and kept it. I noted that rule three was the one Roy seemed most deliberate about. He repeated the last part twice. Tell him immediately.

[00:07:42]On the fourth day, Penny flagged an anomaly in the soil core data from transct 7. The cores from the upper section of the transct running along the base of the second ridge line showed a compaction pattern inconsistent with the surrounding terrain. At the surface level, the soil behaved normally. Below approximately 40 mm, the compaction increased sharply, as though the ground at that location had been subjected to repeated heavy loading over an extended period. This was not reflected in the 88 baseline data for the same coordinates.

[00:08:18]Marcus' explanation was straightforward.

[00:08:20]game trail, probably elk, heavily used over the intervening years, possibly converging at a water source or mineral deposit we hadn't located yet. Elk compaction patterns in high country soil were well documented. The numbers were unusual, but not impossible. Penny photographed the course. She logged the GPS coordinates. She noted the anomaly in the field record with a question mark in Marcus' proposed explanation beside it. I agreed that Marcus was probably right. That evening, I walked back to the edge of Transct 7 on my own before the light went completely. The compaction zone ran approximately 8 ft in width along the base of the ridge line. The spacing between the heaviest impact points, where the soil compression was most severe, measured roughly 50 to 54 in center to center.

[00:09:12]Elk stride at a walk averages 28 to 34 in. I did not write that down that night. I told myself I would check the measurement again in better light. Roy was watching me when I came back into camp. He did not ask where I had been.

[00:09:29]The White Mountain Apache have occupied this territory for centuries, long before the military post that gave the region its current name was established in 1870.

[00:09:41]The eastern high country, the section above the Black River drainage where we were working, carries a specific designation in the trib's internal land management records. Roy translated it for me on the fifth evening, sitting outside the equipment trailer with a cup of coffee going cold in his hands. He said the translation was approximate.

[00:10:03]The closest English equivalent was something like the place that holds its breath. He said the designation was not a legend. He was careful about that distinction. He said the White Mountain Apache had two categories for what outsiders tended to collapse into a single word. There was what people believed which was personal and variable and not written down anywhere. And there was what the trib's governance structure had formally codified as operational protocol which was institutional and written and carried consequences for violation regardless of what any individual believed personally. The Eastern Grid sector had been under a formal avoidance protocol since 1953.

[00:10:50]Roy said the protocol had been renewed three times since then, each time following a specific triggering event that he was not at liberty to describe in detail. He said the four rules he had given us were a simplified field version of the protocol's core provisions developed specifically for explaining the requirements to outside contractors who would not otherwise comply with a document written in White Mountain Apache governance language. I asked him who had developed that simplified version. He said a man named Wallace Runningwater, who had served as the trib's director of natural and cultural resources from 1961 through 1989.

[00:11:32]I asked if I could speak with Wallace Runningwater. Roy said Wallace had passed in 1991, but he said there was someone else, a man named Chester Dosela, 73 years old at the time of our survey, who had served as Wallace's deputy for 19 years and had held the directorship himself from 1989 forward. Chester Dosela had been present for the 1971 triggering event. Roy said Chester had agreed to speak with me if I wanted to make the drive to White River on our rest day. I made the drive. Chester Dosela met me at the tribal offices in White River. He was a compact, deliberate man who chose his words with the care of someone who had spent decades in administrative roles where imprecision had consequences.

[00:12:22]He had the directorship's files on the table when I arrived. He did not offer them to me to read. He referenced them occasionally as we spoke to confirm specific dates. He said the place that holds its breath was not a name people used casually. He said the formal avoidance acres in the eastern high country centered on the draw below the second ridge line. The draw itself, he said, had been avoided by the White Mountain Apache as a matter of informal community practice for as long as oral records existed. The formalization in 1953 had come after a survey crew, a state forestry team, had reported an incident in the same area and filed a complaint with the Bureau of Indian Affairs that went unanswered.

[00:13:09]He said the four rules existed because experience had demonstrated that people who did not understand the protocol's reasoning would not follow a prohibition without reasons attached to specific behaviors. He said the rule about the marked stones was the most important one. He said if any of us found a marked stone, we should stop everything we were doing and come directly to him. Not to Roy, to him.

[00:13:36]I drove back to camp and told Roy what Chester had said. Roy nodded as though this was not new information. I asked him why Chester had specified himself rather than Roy as the contact for the marked stone rule.

[00:13:51]Roy said that some things required a level of authority that a field liaison was not empowered to exercise.

[00:13:59]On the seventh evening, Travis dealt out a hand of Jin Rummy after dinner while the generator ran low behind us and the treeine across the meadow went dark in stages as the last of the light pulled west. Marcus was losing and complaining about it in the good-natured way he always did when he was losing. Penny was updating her sample log. Roy was in his chair facing east, not playing. Travis said without particular alarm that there was something at the tree line. We looked. At the edge of the ponderosa stand, where the meadow grass met the first row of trunks, there was a shape.

[00:14:38]It was not moving. It was positioned at a gap between two trees, and it was partially obscured by the darkness and the distance, which I estimated at approximately 90 yards. It was tall.

[00:14:52]That is the only word that felt accurate in the moment. The surrounding trees were mature ponderosa pine, averaging 50 to 60 ft in height, with first branches typically beginning at 12 to 15 ft. The shape resolved against the trunks rather than a canopy, which placed it in the lower register of the tree line. My estimate, triangulated against a tree I measured the following morning using the survey transit, placed its standing height between 8 and 9 ft. It stood at the gap for approximately 4 minutes. I know the duration because Marcus checked his watch twice and said the number aloud both times. Then it was not there.

[00:15:34]We had not heard it leave. The meadow was completely silent. I noticed it then. The way you notice the absence of something that had always been present.

[00:15:44]The insects, the nightbirds, the small mammal rustlings that constitute the background noise of any healthy forest edge at dusk. All of it had stopped. It stayed stopped for a long time. Roy did not turn around.

[00:16:00]The following morning, I crossed the meadow with the survey transit and measured the tree at the gap. I walked the grass at the edge of the tree line for approximately 40 ft in both directions from the gap. I found 17 impressions in the soft soil at the forest edge. They averaged 19 in in length. They sank 31 mm into soil that held my own boot at 9. The spacing between impressions measured 51 in center to center on average. Marcus photographed every one of them. He said his money was still on a large bear, possibly a black bear of unusual size, possibly standing bipedily to investigate the camp lights and the generator noise. I did not say anything about the stride measurement. Roy looked at the photographs for a long time. He said he wanted to call Chester Doella.

[00:16:55]He used the camp radio at the scheduled check-in time and made the call through the tribal office relay. Chester said to be careful about the rules. He did not elaborate.

[00:17:07]On the ninth night, Travis ran the perimeter check at 2100 as he always did, logging the equipment cases and the generator fuel level in his maintenance notebook. He came back into camp and sat down and then stood up again almost immediately. He said one of the transit cases was wrong.

[00:17:25]We went out with the flashlights. The transit case that had been latched and stacked on the left side of the equipment row was now on the ground 4 ft from its original position on the right side of the row. The latch was open. The transit inside was undamaged, but it was resting in an angle inconsistent with the case orientation, as though the case had been placed down after being carried upright.

[00:17:50]Travis went through the rest of the equipment. Three other cases had been moved. The generator fuel cap was on backward. Nothing was missing. Nothing was broken. Penny found the first marked stone the next morning. She was walking back from the solar field station, following the same path she had used every morning for 9 days, and she stopped and called out without coming any closer. The stone was sitting in the center of the path. She said it had not been there the previous morning. She described it to Roy before any of us had seen it, and Royy's expression did not change, but he went very still. It was flat, palmsized, with ochre markings. We called Chester Doella. While we waited for Roy to reach Chester on the radio, Marcus said quietly that he thought one of us must have put it there as a joke.

[00:18:43]He looked at Travis when he said it.

[00:18:45]Travis said some things you do not joke about and Travis was not someone who typically spoke with that particular quality in his voice. Roy came back from the radio. He said Chester was coming out in the morning. He said in the meantime we were to leave the stone exactly where it was. Nobody was to approach the draw below the second ridge line under any circumstances and we were to keep the camp lights on through the night. He said there was something else.

[00:19:12]He said someone had whistled in the eastern grid. He did not look at any of us when he said it. Nobody admitted to it. I do not believe any of us did it intentionally. Chester Doella arrived in a tribal department truck at 0700 the following morning. He examined the marked stone without touching it. He walked the perimeter of the camp slowly and looked at the treeine and looked at the equipment row where the cases had been moved. Then he walked to Roy and spoke to him in White Mountain Apache for approximately 3 minutes. Roy translated for us. He said Chester wanted us to break camp and move our overnight position to the meadows west side back from the treeine by at least 200 yards. He said Chester was going to document the stone's location and handle the stone's removal according to tribal protocol. He said the survey work itself could continue during daylight hours in the eastern grid with one condition.

[00:20:15]Nobody was to enter the draw below the second ridge line for any reason.

[00:20:22]We broke camp and moved it. That afternoon, Marcus completed a transct run in the northern section of the grid, well away from the draw, and came back to the new camp position without incident. Penny finished her soil sample cataloging. Travis inventoried the equipment a second time and found nothing further disturbed. At 14:30, we realized Travis had not come back from his midday generator check. He had gone to the old camp position where the generator was still set up to check the fuel level. The walk from the new position to the old one was approximately 300 yd through open meadow. In clear daylight, you could see most of that distance with unobstructed sight lines. He had left at 1300.

[00:21:14]Roy found him at 1510 sitting at the base of a ponderosa pine at the edge of the draw below the second ridge line.

[00:21:23]Travis was unharmed. He was sitting with his back against the tree and his knees drawn up. And when Roy reached him, he looked up and asked what time it was.

[00:21:34]When Roy told him, Travis was quiet for a moment and then said he did not understand because he had just sat down.

[00:21:42]He had no memory of walking to the draw.

[00:21:45]He had no memory of the intervening hour and 10 minutes. He said the last thing he remembered clearly was checking the generator fuel level and writing the number in his maintenance notebook. Roy retrieved the notebook from Travis's shirt pocket. The fuel level entry was logged at 1304.

[00:22:06]At the base of the tree where Travis had been sitting, arranged in a loose ark in the pine duff were seven flat stones.

[00:22:14]Each one had ochre markings. They were arranged facing outward from the tree, facing the draw. I thought of rule three. I thought of the way Roy had repeated the final instruction twice on the first afternoon, tell him immediately. I thought of Chester Dosela saying the marked stone rule was the most important one and naming himself as the contact rather than Roy and Roy explaining afterward that some things required a level of authority a field liaison was not empowered to exercise. I understood then that the four rules were not precautions against something vague.

[00:22:54]They were a management protocol for something specific, something the tribe had been managing in that draw in that 340 acre zone for longer than the fort that gave the region its name had existed. Marcus drove Travis to White River for a medical evaluation. The physician found nothing abnormal. Travis gave a written statement to the tribal department that I was not permitted to read. The Bureau of Indian Affairs field incident report was filed on the 22nd of October, 1996.

[00:23:27]The filing agent was a regional coordinator named Sandra Fitch, who I contacted by phone approximately 3 weeks after the survey concluded. She told me she had submitted the report with a recommendation for a follow-up assessment by the Bureau's Division of Trust Responsibility. She said the recommendation had been received and logged. Bureau of Indian Affairs field incident file 96 Arizona 00031 was assigned to the Southwest region administrative review queue. Sandra Fitch told me 6 months later that the follow-up assessment had been deprioritized due to resource constraints. She told me the file had been moved to a closed status after a 90-day review period during which no federal action was initiated. She said the tribal department had been notified of the closure. She said that if the tribal department wished to reopen the matter, they could file a request through standard channels. I asked her whether anyone had reviewed the track photographs before the file was closed.

[00:24:34]She said she was not aware of any photographs in the file. Sandra Fitch filed an internal memorandum requesting that the photographic evidence be located and appended to the record before the files administrative closure was finalized. I know this because she told me she had done it and because she was the kind of person who kept copies of everything she sent. The memorandum is not referenced anywhere in the archive file. The file closed in February of 1997.

[00:25:05]I spoke to Chester Dosela one more time in the spring of 1997 by telephone. He said the marked stones Travis had been found among had been removed and handled according to protocol. He said the draw was under enhanced monitoring, which he did not define further. He said the tribal department appreciated the crews cooperation once the situation had developed. I asked him what Travis had been sitting among those stones for.

[00:25:34]Chester was quiet for a moment. He said he believed Travis had been placed there. I asked what that meant. He said he thought that was a question I should sit with for a while before asking it again. I have sat with it for nearly 30 years. I am speaking now because that archive file was sent to me with the photographs missing from the evidence log and because whoever removed them understood that the track measurements documented on page two of that report cannot be explained by any species with a confirmed range in eastern Arizona.

[00:26:08]The photographs would have made that administratively impossible to categorize as a logging complication or a personnel disturbance.

[00:26:17]I do not drive through eastern Arizona.

[00:26:20]I have not since the survey ended. I still have my field notes from those 15 days. All of them. I have the soil core data and the GPS logs and the transsect records. I have a photograph Marcus took of the track impressions at the meadows forest edge printed on a 4x6 that has been in the same manila envelope in my desk drawer since 1997.

[00:26:47]I have not provided that photograph to anyone. I have thought about why not for a long time. What I keep coming back to is something Chester Della said at the end of our telephone call in the spring of 1997.

[00:27:02]The last time I spoke with him, I had asked what the tribal protocol was designed to accomplish, whether it was designed to contain whatever was in that draw or to avoid it or something else.

[00:27:15]He said the protocol was designed to maintain an arrangement. He said the arrangement had held for a very long time. He said the rules existed to ensure that it continued holding.

[00:27:29]I asked what happened if the arrangement broke down. He said he hoped I would not be around to find out.

[00:27:38]Bureau of Indian Affairs field incident file 96 Arizona 0031 is listed as administratively closed.

[00:27:48]The draw below the second ridge line is still there. The arrangement, as far as I know, is still in place. I have never learned what it cost to make