In diesel vehicles, a DPF warning light that remains on without engine fault codes indicates hidden software manipulation or system malfunction; proper diagnosis requires checking live data (DPF pressure above 40 hPa at idle causes limp mode and turbo underboost) and restoring stock ECU software to enable correct regeneration, as cleaning alone cannot resolve software-induced regeneration failures.
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Audi A6 P200200: Why the DPF Light Wouldn't Stay Off
Added:once again.
>> Hello, it's Jimmy here at Rallies. We have here a Audi A6. This is an Avant model, which is a estate. Not that that makes any difference, but let's get inside. Right, now the strange thing with this car is it doesn't give you an engine light, but what happens is that DPF symbol stays on permanently on every drive.
See that little symbol up there? It comes up because the door is open.
Let me shut that door. Is that door open? Same when the doors are open.
All right, we've got the bonnet open.
Right.
Problem is is he's had someone come out and attempt to clean the DPF. The light still stays on. He's had it to another DPF cleaner who said he's cleaned the DPF and replaced the DPF pressure sensor.
Well, just noticed on the camera I've injured myself on the last video there and the last repair.
Um right, so he's had a few different people attempt to clean the DPF.
He's been to an Audi specialist who tried to clean the DPF and when the customer drove away the light was back on, so he went back.
Then he said he's done some extra work and he sorted it out.
Now, the problem is he doesn't get the engine light on, but the DPF light is still there. No engine light, no fault codes, and what happens is if he puts his foot down, which I've seen these symptoms exactly on my video 2 months ago. A lot of people are trying to do what I'm doing on the videos and they're not doing it correctly.
I've had a lot of people comment on my last video saying, "We know how to do the software fix that you're doing. It's simple. It's this.
Delete your EGRs.
Delete the DTC. Do this and this."
Doing stuff like that, just in in in those parameters, will not allow the DPF to regenerate.
Some people say, "Well, but why am I seeing customers come here every day who's had somebody The customer is saying he hasn't had anyone remap it, but I I I think it has it has been remapped because he's not getting an engine light on.
But, when he puts his foot down, the car goes into limp mode and you get the flashing glow plug symbol.
We had the one exactly like this before.
And what it was was I re-flashed it and when we took it on a test drive, we were getting codes come up which is P2463 black DPF and a P0299 turbo underboost because the DPF pressure was so high. If you've got DPF pressure at idle on these over 40, it will cause limp mode. It will cause turbo underboost. The pressure is too high, they don't like it.
It that doesn't happen on every car with that sort of Normally, you need a a much higher pressure than that to cause underboost, but on these, I know 100% for a fact that causes that issue. Um so, I've had a little quick look and I'm going to show you what I'm looking at.
Okay, so we have 43 hPa pressure, so a very very black DPF.
2,000 RPM.
180 to 160.
23 g of soot. Let's hold the revs up a little bit see if that increases or moves. Yeah, it's increasing.
And it's increasing quickly.
So, next step now is we'll go back.
Now, even though this car has gone into limp mode, it's losing power, we have no DTCs.
What does that say to me? Someone's trying to mask the problem. So, will I flash it back so I can prove my point? Back to original software, take it on a test drive and we should then get P0299 and P2463.
Let's do that, I think.
All right, so I'm going to try and show you something quickly here as well. If I turn the ignition back on, there we go.
Give it a few seconds and we get particulate filter fault that comes up here.
Even though, like I said, we have no fault codes.
Refill AdBlue.
There we go. Particulate filter fault.
See owner's manual, but no fault code.
A lot of dodgy remappers around.
Right, we've got my friend friends in right places, Baz Meredith.
He's given me a little walk through.
I've not done the online programming with the with the X431 Euro before, so I'm going to give it a go. Um I'll see we do it I've got the tuning equipment, but I've not done it with the launch tablet before, so Baz has just given me a quick walk through how he does it.
It's knowing the right people.
Say hello, Baz.
How we doing? You all okay?
Right. All right, we've downloaded the latest software for it.
Right, so we've updated the software back to stock. We're going to take this car on a test drive now and we should get some fault codes pop up. All right, so a quick bit of a test drive. I can see the vehicle is regenerating.
So grams are coming down, pressure is coming down. You can see the last time it's had a successful regeneration 3,887 km ago.
So, whoever has done the software on this software manipulation has done it incorrectly, so instead of fixing his P2002 fault code, he's now given a fault code that you would get for that as a P2458 -00.
And obviously it's getting P0299 turbo under boost. We haven't got that fault up just yet, I don't think, but I've not read the codes yet. We're just taking it on a test drive with the live data on. So, once I've finished this test drive, that 3,887 km since the successful region, that should now reset to zero because it's it's going to do a regen while I'm driving here.
Um and then once that's finished, it should say it's done a successful regen you know, 5 km ago or 2 km ago, whatever.
Let's Let's finish this test drive and I'll get back to you. Okay, so just finishing the test drive. We can see there it's done regen 6 km ago.
All right, now that that's done, we have 12 millibars pressure.
So it's still a little bit higher than I'd like it. Let's give it a clean.
We'll give it a clean and add my software to it so it is able to regen in the future. Um and hopefully we can get the pressure down. And of course the main issue is that the car is going to regenerate in the future. It's not just going to continue to block up and block up and block up and it's not able to regenerate every sort of let's say 500 km, the DPF should reach regeneration phase, which is like getting up to 650° and then your soot and your pressure will burn off and drop down.
That's not been happening on this car, so let's get that correct.
Okay, so I've used my Autotuner here to upload a new file to that and that will adjust the tolerances of the DPF so it doesn't give you the P200200 fault code.
All right, now we're back in the vehicle here.
New software is uploaded. Let's just click off the bonnet error. So the DPF symbol has gone. Now, I don't need to do this, but um I can maybe to show you that my software works, uh I can maybe manipulate a few things on the car, which is if I if I trick the pressure sensor to thinking the pressure's high, the soot grams will jump up.
And then we can do another test drive and I can show you that it has regened while this software's on the car.
So uh I haven't spoke about the software in this video, but I spoke about it bit in my previous videos. Um I've spent many months, even years, testing stuff on these cars and cleaning the DPFs and also trying to find a resolution for the repetitive fault of P200200 that comes up on these cars, even though they've had a new DPF and new EGR cooler.
The fault can be repetitive.
The only way that we've found, I mean, we've had customers come to Audi or Audi, however you want way you want to pronounce it.
I've always pronounced it Audi. In England, everyone pronounces it Audi.
So, anyway, I've had customers go to the dealer.
They've had the new parts fitted and in a few months it happens again and then they're getting quoted another four and a half grand to fix it again, but it's already been fixed 3 months ago. And it all gets blamed to the driving style.
So, if we adjust the tolerances, it helps the car work properly how it should.
So, the next step is for me to get the cleaning fluid in and it will just go in here.
Connect it to the gun.
Uh 130 psi into the line.
We're just going to squeeze that in.
So, we had I think it was a 12 or 14 15 in around that range now of pressure.
We're going to see if we can get that down a little bit lower with the with by cleaning the whole system out.
Okay, so what I can do here is attach a vacuum gauge, put pressure on that onto that sensor which will trick the ECU thinking that the DPF is blocked.
And we'll get our diagnostic set up.
Okay, so by tricking the DPF saying that we've got like 900 millibars of pressure in there, we will see the soot grams shoot up.
What I'll do is I'll get that up to 25 g, then I'll disconnect that.
When we take it out on a drive, we We again get the vehicle to do a regen. So, currently it's at 7 km.
If I can get that to change to kilometers, not meters.
7 km and we should see again we should see the temperature reach above 600° and then after the regen's finished this again should reset to zero or maybe by the time I get to record it could be 1 or 2 km or whatever, but you know what I'm talking about.
So, we're going to wait till this hits 25 g.
This all I'm doing this is not part of the job I'm doing. This is just to show you uh for the viewers basically that for one we can increase the soot by putting pressure in there and if we get the soot up to 25 g the car will be able to do a regen when I do a test drive. See, let me doing this bit of a trickery here. There's no way to verify the car can do a regen with the software on it and the only way to know to do that is to let the customer drive for 500 miles and see if it's if it's done a regen in that time, but we want to verify it here and now on the spot.
Okay, 25 g we have. Okay, so we're in the car about to go for a test drive. We have already 8 millibars so we we have seen a decrease in the temperature. We haven't even gave it any reds yet or taken it for a drive.
So, we should hopefully see that decrease even more than You can see there it's 700°, 600°.
So, it looks like we're coming back down now.
Okay, so I've just pulled over here for a sec. Oh, hang on a minute. Engine's gone off. Start.
Start up.
Oh, we're in drive.
Automatic stop start, turn that off.
Right, let's have a look back where we were.
We have 6 millibars pressure.
Grams of soot are down to 3.6.
You see, it's just on a regeneration, 0.1 km ago.
Right, so pressure's come down to a healthy number.
Let's hold it up to 2 1/2 RPM.
20.
A lot better than when it had arrived.
All right, so just having a look at the numbers on here.
Um I'll have to go back and look at some of my older videos, but this one just doesn't seem right to me. 75° temperature sensor one.
Surely it's more than 75° down there, you know?
And when you accelerate it, it goes even lower.
Uh, it's fluctuating.
See, this is 275, that's 171. I'd expect to see that at least 150°.
120° with the engine running.
But the pressure is coming down even better now. We've got 18 millibars.
If I can change it, well, it's 18 millibars.
Idle, we just did have five there, yep.
All right, so it's all good. Right, no fault codes now available. I do realize that when I said I was going to do the test drive earlier, um I was looking for fault codes that were going to pop up.
Unfortunately, we didn't get a chance to do that because when when I put the stock file back onto the car, instead of it giving me a fault code for a blocked DPF, it just automatically started doing a regen, so it got rid of the the soot, which was causing the blockage, and it also got rid of the pressure, which would have been causing the turbo underboost.
Um So, basically, by flashing it back to stock, it's got it's sorted itself out, basically, in that sense. But, the main issue here with this car is P200200.
Obviously, somebody's tried to resolve that by deleting fault codes and doing remapping.
It's like basically DPF off but they've tried not to do DPF off or or a DPF delete. They've tried to manipulate the software to get rid of the faults but the DPF still work but obviously clearly it didn't.
Now um I know a lot of people are trying to copy the video that I've done but this software that I'm using is not available anywhere. It's It's I'm I'm the only person at the moment who can get this software to be able to get the car to work and not give you the P200 code which is opening the parameters basically and letting the car assume that everything's okay because the EGR cooler is the main issue with these cars as you as you know but um problem I'm having now is everyone wants to copy me um and there's an old saying what is it um you can duplicate but not replicate.
That's what someone's tried to do.
They've tried to duplicate what I've done here I think and done it incorrectly. Anyway, so the car is now fixed and we will move on from here.
Right, so that's it. All finished on the Audi A6. See you in the next video.
>> once again
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