When consumer electronics devices are damaged by incorrect power supply voltage, a smart repair approach involves bypassing the damaged PCB circuitry and implementing adjustable voltage regulation using DC-DC buck converters. This method allows the device to function safely with variable speed control while preserving features like audio outputs, and can be more cost-effective than purchasing replacement parts when original components are unavailable.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
Blown-up Joie Sansa 2-in-1 Rocker/Swing ‘Magic Smart Repair’
Added:Hi everyone. Welcome, welcome, welcome back to my YouTube channel. Okay, so today I am not doing a project. I'm going to be doing a repair to this baby twoin- one swing chair or rocker. So, what I'm going to do here is I'm going to bring the camera up close and give a discussion of the problem. Then I'm going to follow on to the repair itself.
So, hopefully it goes well here.
Okay. So, this is uh J O I E Zanza two in one baby swing chair.
So, um, it's pronounced Za, J O E. Za, and I think it's French.
So, um, this is a twoin one swing chair that I purchased for my son Joshua.
Well, me and my exartner purchased it for Joshua. And about must be approaching two years, I gifted it to my sister Sana, who is older than me, my eldest sister. and she had it for a while and then she got her use out of it. But Len, she gave it handed it down to my younger sister Danielle.
So when she gave this to my younger sister, she passed over a power supply too, but it was the incorrect power supply. It was actually 24 volts DC.
This is rated 5 vols 1 amp. So that's the power supply that it requires. So, Smafa doesn't know. Um, I think she just mist mistakenly picked up uh power supply. Um, four times bigger than what it was meant to be. Well, nearly five. And basically what's happened here now is when Danielle has went to plug it in or Danielle's partner Colin, um, it's blew the PCB board up.
And I have already looked at the PCB board. I will show that in a minute when I strip it, but it's um blue to smitherines. It's erect and you can't buy parts for it. You can't buy the PCB board for it. Uh you can't get a wiring diagram or or a pan out for the PCB board. And there's a lot of digital components on it that are blew up. So um some are visually seen such as um resistors and diodes and capacitors. as well resistors and and capacitors that are blue completely off the board. So, I'm going to get started here and I'll show this in detail here now. So, we'll get a stripped. I'll just do a demonstration first of what um the problem is. So, this is actually a 12vt power supply. Um it's obviously too big as I say, but I'm just going to demonstrate what's wrong. So see now when you plug in even the 5V power supply to this unit it runs at maximum speed and there's no variable voltage control at this point which there should be. So if I plug this in now you'll see so it might work here. This is just a we loose connection.
So see the way it's going too fast. So obviously the chair part sits on this the seat and what do we see? So imagine a baby sitting on the chair going at this speed. This is a 12 volts but even at 5 volts we have no control. I'm just showing exactly what has happened when they plugged the 24v power supply in.
This is half of the the same volt or the voltage. So this is 12 volts and they plugged in 24 basically.
So there's no control.
It just um either stops.
So if I go right down low here, off on this is forward and back. So it goes far too hard.
But I'm just going to plug in the 5 vol supply and I'm going to demonstrate that it's also doesn't work because the board is blew up.
So this is one that I've made up here.
It's the right um voltage and the right ampage.
So, what we have here now, right, we have the chair.
Um let me see if I turn it on.
So, this is actually far too fast, believe it or not, even though it's maximum voltage off the power supply. So, this is 5 volts. Now, if I had to turn turn this here potentiometer down or encoder, it either goes off or on.
And there's no control of the side this way. So, it goes two directions here. It goes this way, then it goes side to side. So, what I want to do here, I want a way of regulating this supply so that this runs nice and slow both ways. Okay.
So, we're going to strip us here now.
So, again, no control.
We actually have no control of the side to side because the boards blew up. So, there'll be voltage regulators and stuff more likely shorted.
So, we'll get this stripped.
Okay. So, we're going to remove 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 screws to get started here.
So, I can't get in with a drill here and a screwdriver bit. Just have to use a screwdriver.
So, we'll remove the board here now. The PCB board.
Okay. So, we've got two small motors.
We've got uh linkage arms behind here.
So, this motor is for moving the mechanism, this axle part here that the seat connects to back and forward. And this one does the swinging. Okay. So, basically like this back and forward.
So, we're going to remove the PCB board here and get a look at it before we move on.
So, five small screws.
Okay. So, if you look at this digital PCB board, you could see the the micro electronics on it. So, uh, if I go up close here, you can see that there's a resistor, a capacitor, a resistor, and a capacitor, and a resistor. The two resistors are blowing completely off the board there, seen at my thumb. Uh, the two capacitors also look heated. So, if I was to replace those, if I knew the correct size, which I don't because you can't get no information on this PCB board. Obviously, it's a bespoke part for this um chair made by J Oe uh the brand. So, what am I going to do?
So, rather than try and contact the company, they're not going to supply this part. Uh the chair when I purchase it was I think it was £160.
Um I think they're down to 140 now. So, rather than throwing this into the scrap, I'm going to make a repair. Um, hopefully it goes well here.
So, we're going to uh place this board back on. And the reason I'm going to place it back on is because this actually provides uh nice sounds for the baby to listen to, such as birds tweeting, and I think there's waves there. Waves of the ocean, the sea. Quite uh relaxing noises. So there's the Wii speaker. So I'm going to place this back on and I'm going to do a transplant lol for these two motors. So here we go. So as I say, you can't get you can get the components uh obviously, but we don't know the size of these components. Each um component has a reference number on the board, but those numbers don't um correspond to the type of resistor or capacitor that they are.
And even if I was to repair these um parts, if you look up close here, you can see that the tracks on the board are also um destroyed.
And there's a good chance that the voltage regulators and everything else in this circuit that uh drives these two motors. Well, quite a number of components will definitely be blown up here. So, here we go. We're going to make this modification. I'm going to place this back onto the board, and we're going to do this quick here.
Okay.
So, the first thing I'm going to do here is plug in the cables again apart from the two motors.
>> Okay. So here is the power the cables that will power the two motors. So these are meant to be connected to this board.
So what I'm going to do here now is I'm going to add my own adjustable voltage regulation.
So I have a plan here. So I'm going to go in the garage and get these V modules.
Then I'm going to bring them out and I'm going to do this modification. So hopefully it goes well.
Okay. So, here we have these two modules.
So, what we have is two electronic modules that I purchased off Amazon. These are actually only £7.
So, if this repairs this uh swing chair, it will be well worth it. So, here we go. I'm just going to give a we discussion of what these are. So these are DC toDC step down buck converters.
They have an external potentiometer seen here and also a switch to turn the output off and on.
So these can regulate the voltage from 1.25 volts minimum to 36 volts maximum. So 36 volts will be the supply, but that's the maximum voltage that these little devices can take.
So obviously I'm using the 5V supply here which plugs into where is it this five pin connector.
So that's actually this plug. So from this little we see if I turn this around this little socket here supplies this board. So what I'm going to do now is well first things first I'm going to find a suitable position to mount these. Obviously, I can't have them in the way of this moving mechanism.
So, I can't have it here because it's only going to interfere with the the sliding mechanism that guides on these rails that slides on these guides, even these rails. So, what I need to do now is I need need to find a suitable place such as maybe here at the side. Um, this nod, this uh what could you call it?
Holder or this um little wheel inside this plastic part. It only comes back to here when this whole head is farthest forward here. It's getting quite stormy out here. So what I want to do is I want to make sure that I mount this in a suitable position.
So I do need to modify these a little because if you look at this up close um I should point out again the supply voltage will be 5 volts to these. So that means I can regulate the voltage from 1.25 volts to 5 volts. Okay. using this potentiometer. Uh, one of these modules will be for the back to back or front to back. Front to back. Uh, this way. If I can move this.
One of these modules will move it this way. And the other module will do the swinging. So, here we go. I'll put the camera on the stand. We'll start doing the work, the modification to these. Do you see the potentiometer? I'll slide this knob off. Do you see that little line on the board there? This side. I need to remove the PCB up to that point without interfering with the the tracks, which I want. I'll just double check it before I do that. Make sure there's no cracks in the PCB because obviously we would uh destroy the board, the circuit.
The reason I want to do that is because I want to use the potentiometers to hold the the PCB in position using this nut.
And the nut will be tightened up to this plastic housing on the swing chair. So, here we go. We'll start uh doing the modification to these. Am I certain that I'm going to mount them here? No. But I will get a we look at this now before I make my mind up. So, good job.
Get the grinder out here.
Okay. So, I need to be careful here.
Now, when I'm cutting this PCB board, I am basically trimming off 3 mil so that the PCB board is level with this uh potentiometer.
So, the reason that I want it like that is because I'm using the potentiometer to mount the electronic circuit or the PCB board to the chair itself.
So, I need to be careful here. I might put my ar better on because I don't want to get this in the lungs.
See the difference there? Now that's what I want with the other one now too.
Perfect.
Okay. So that is the PCB boards cut. So what I can do here now is I can mount these directly to this plastic housing using the potentiometer. So this we washer and this we nut. So what I'm going to do here now is I'm going to figure out the best position for this.
So I need to be careful that this sliding mechanism doesn't sort of collide with the circuitry otherwise it would just uh sort of knock it off the plastic housing or break the plastic housing itself.
So either this way better this way. I also need to make sure that these metal reels don't short the PCB board out.
So, one there and the other one H I might be able to come in here because when I drill a hole, this will move down this way. 15 mil.
So, I think I'm going to do it there.
You know, I can't do it. I can't place them in here because this sliding head will collide with the PCB keyboards, the heat sink on them like so. That's no good.
So, I also need to make sure that these uh control knobs for the potentiometer are not in the way of the seat. This the seat that connects to this part. I don't have the seat. Um, I only have this mountain part because this is the part that's broke.
So, basically what it does again for the live stream, this slides back and forward and side to side, but um my sister passed uh a power supply over when she passed this um item over. I think it might have been about as a gift to give it. I give it to my older sister um Smafa about um two years ago. And then Smafa handed it down to Danielle.
Um so I had it for Joshua. Um basically they passed um over a where is it? A 24V uh power supply and they blew the the PCB board up for it. And the problem is you can't uh get wiring diagrams. You can't get the board because they won't supply the board. You can't get the pin outs of the components, the type of components that's on the board. And basically when they connected the 24vt power supply up to it, it blew up the the voltage regulation side of the circuit and blew the resistors, it blew capacitors all off the board. Um, so the full video will appear very soon. So hopefully this um fix works the transplant here. So basically what we have is two uh low voltage motors. We have one that does the sliding back and forward and then we have the one that does the swing. And basically what I'm doing here now is adding these um buck uh tobuck converters. So DC or buck converter DC toDC uh voltage regulation.
So the supply voltage now when you plug in the normal supply of 5 volts basically what happens is the the thing runs at full speed and basically the baby will be going like this mad you know cuz it runs really fast. So what I'm doing is I'm correcting the well bypassing the fault another way.
Okay. So I have made my mind up. Um, there was two positions that I was going to place these PCB boards. Either here at the rear or at the side. Um, the reason I don't want to place them at the rear. There's more space. But, um, I would have to lengthen all these wires, these cables. I don't want to do that.
You know what I mean? I just want to have them up close here.
Um, so I need to make sure that these wires are not in the way of the rails, the mechanism, the sliding mechanism when I'm complete. So anyway, this is the first mount point. I have the PCB boards trimmed so that we can mount them using the potentiometers here.
So I'm thinking about there um maybe a we bit further in.
So basically when I drill a hole, this um should sit away from the reel. Um what do we see? So that's as far forward this way that I can take the board. So I'm going to place a we mark here on one side. So it's about an inch up from the the base here.
So hopefully this is okay here when I drill the hole. The one at the other side the PCB board. I can't if I have this one this way and I have remember these are identical pieces components or modules. If I have this one sitting here, the potentiometer won't be the same distance at the other side because if you can imagine when I flip this, this potent potentiometer is not in the center of the PCB board. I can either turn it upside down to have them in the same position, but it would be harder wired. Um, just more awkward. I would have to wire it first and then place it in. Or I could have it in the same position, but the potentiometer would be a wee bit closer to the front face.
It's better having these uh potentiometers closer to the front face because the other controls are still at the side and they're still operating for the sound and for the waves for the the animal sounds and the birdie sounds and all that. So anyway, going to drill here a 6 and 1/2 hole, a 6 and 1/2 uh 6.5 mil drill, trying not to break the cover.
There we go. I think these are 6.75. I see the crack. Yeah, they are. But I want them tight. So, I might just give them the remount with the 6 and 1/2.
There we go. Perfect. So, we have one hole drilled.
So, let's see what this looks like now at this side.
Good job. So, I'll put the nut on it here and the washer.
So, while I clear the base, well, the base is actually risen a little. It doesn't sit flat. It's got like um a curve to it. So, we'll see how it fits here. If not, um, I should have moved it up this way a bit, but I want to keep it away from the runners. Remember that.
So, this as far up now as the runner goes. You can see that there's a lot of space there. So, let's see if this fits on. Yes. So, that's good.
Let's just put these cables in.
Some of these nodules here or this one here could be hitting the top of the board. What I can do here is I could um glue these cables here and cut the top off this.
I'll cut the top of it now. Sir.
So there you go. It's perfect. You see?
So we'll put the nut on this now.
But I can tell you one thing. Any further down that way and I would have been screwed.
But I get a pair of pliers here. I might just get a spanner or a socket.
So, basically now the potentiometer holds the PCB in position. Yes. So, the only thing I need to do there now is maybe run a we bit of uh a hot glue alongside it. I'll do that after I wire it. Um, I can also place the Wii knob, the Wii control knob on.
So, that now will control, what do we see? I'll keep that for controlling the side to side motion. Okay. Um, because it's at the same side as the original potentiometer.
So, what I'm going to do here now is I'm going to make my mind up.
I need to do it to drill this hole.
So, do I keep the two PCBs in the same position or do I flip it over the body?
Um, what am I going to do? What do we get? Look at this side. Okay, so for the looks of it, I'm going to flip the PCB over the body. Um, have the potentiometer knob on the same well same distance this way, but also up and down the way.
So, let's get the same uh position here.
I'm just going to take it off again and I'm going to do a we bit of measuring.
Does it really come off again? There you go.
So, how far up are we?
How far up to the center at 4 and 1/2 in?
And we are 28.5 down.
So, when I get this right here, I put a we st mark on it.
and 28 mil 28.5 which is there.
So this is for my younger sister that was originally mines that went to my elder sister. They blew it up four and 5/8.
So maybe about here. up over there.
Okay. So, that's the two holes drilled and reamed.
So, what I'm going to do here now is I'm going to place this PCB board into position and I'm going to have this one upside down, but I'm not going to uh wire this one just yet.
Um, going to mount this one first. I'm not going to mount it just yet. I mean, >> so this is for Danielle's new baby. Uh, Eva, my younger sister Danielle.
So, my sister, I'm going to just say my sisters blew it up.
They blew it the smitter. Is that a saying?
So the potential potentiometer is now holding this board in place. This circuit board or control board. This one will be held upside down. And the reason being is because the two boards are identical and we want the two potentiometers in the same position on the outside. This one will do the the sway side to side swing and this one will do the motion back and forward. So basically it's going to be regulating the voltage between 1.25 volts and 5 volts.
So, we're going to start wiring this here now. So, first things first, the input to the motors. So, we're going to cut these plugs off and we're going to keep the length of the the wires here, cables.
So, just give it a we swirl.
Sometimes I like to solder them just dub all over because these are going into a terminal block here.
So, that's one done.
So, I need to be sure not to mix these up.
Not the polarity. It doesn't really matter about the polarity because it's a DC motor here.
It's going to run the other way anyway.
So, um, okay. So, the input now to this module is the left hand side. The output is the right hand side. So, I'm going to get a we screwdriver here.
So, what I say, I don't want to mix them up. I want this potentiometer to do the sway because the old sway control knob is at this side. Obviously, this is not going to work now. What was that? This is not going to work now, but it still lights up. And basically looking at this, you want the sway with this potentiometer because it's right beside it. You don't want to mix them up. Yeah.
So, this one is for the back and forward, and this is for the sway.
So back and forward is this way.
And we want the length in these because um we don't want Is that okay? Yeah, that's perfect. Look. Or is it? We'll get her shorted. Don't panic.
So the sway is this one.
Yeah. So that's grand. So that's for there and this is for here.
So we're just going to put it on with the colors blue being negative and red being positive.
So the right hand side of this control board the module is the output.
Okay. So we have the controller at the side for the sway. We have the controller here at the opposite side for the sliding mechanism.
So this cable, this wire needs to go to this board and this one needs to go to this one. on the output. So the output being at the right hand side of the control board, I'm going to use the the blue be well the blue is going to set up for negative and the red for positive, but it doesn't matter. They're interchangeable here.
So all we need now for this one is the input, which is the supply. I'm not going to be taking the supply from the PCB board. I'm taking the supply directly from the socket on this part.
Okay, I'll do that when I have the outputs done.
So, before I mount this board, I'm just going to wire this directly up.
Just make sure I've got this right way.
Yeah.
So, now we need to do the input.
And maybe not sure if we're going to put a cable tie around these. They're better to hang slack on the bottom base panel long as they're not um been jammed on against this rail. But the as you can see the the runner the wheels is at the opposite side. Okay. And it is this uh platform is not colliding this moving platform is not colliding with the the PCBs or the heat sinks seen here.
So good job. So, on to the input. I'll plug in this we speaker for the animal noises again because just to point out it still works. It doesn't blow that up that side of the circuit. So, we're going to do the supply here now and then we're going to uh tighten the two potentiometers. We'll have this one done. I'm going to run a bit of uh glue along it to sort of stabilize the board the boards. And then I'm going to put the the base on and see if it works.
So, good job.
Okay, so I am now on to the input. Look at this coming apart.
So, we've got this speaker wire which is capable of carrying over 5 amps.
Um, the supply the power supply was rated for was rated for 1 amps. So, this is sufficient. So, here we go.
going to uh have this run to here. Going to keep it about maybe about 400 mil long.
Two of them. And then I'll figure out where I'm going to tie them to.
Well, this one could be uh I'll keep it the same length.
So, we're going to wire this one up first.
So there will be a we bit of solder in here in a moment.
So I'm using speaker wire because it's quite flexible here. And again I'm just going to double these over. Cut them at 10 mil approximately and double them over. SW them up and then double them over.
Perfection.
So um also so the polarity needs to be correct here to side off the the buck converter.
So, I'm going to use the black as negative. No, I'll go for black being positive. The black line. Keep it the same as the power supplies.
Making sure these are open.
So, this will save.
Well, if they were to buy another one, they're £140 now. They were 160 uh 5 years ago.
Must be a good uh chair because you can still purchase them.
So that's that one done.
So what I need to do now is make sure that that cable is not going to get intertwined in between the guide. So I'll probably run that through here.
Okay.
Or it could come along here.
Be a better idea, wouldn't it? And wire it up the power. See the power comes in at the rear.
might be better doing this, you know, or glue it. Good job.
So, we're going to wire this one up now for the other control module.
So, remember, I'm going to pull back 10 mil here.
Sw it.
There we go. So, we're going to wire this. Now, we're going to mount it.
So, black, that's positive. black line.
Making sure they're on the terminal blocks. Tighten the we screw.
Perfect.
So, you want to be holding a we bit of the PVC on the wire here so it's strong, not just the copper.
Making sure to tighten these these terminals.
I've got the output to the output, input to the input, and the same here. So, I can now mount this uh PCB module.
I'm not going to put the control knobs on yet because I don't want to scratch them.
Okay, makes sense.
So, I previously won this, me and my ex-girlfriend.
Um, they had me passed it over to Smafa as a gift. Uh, Smafa gave it to my younger sister about a month ago, or not a month ago, maybe a couple of weeks ago, and they used a power supply and basically a 24volt power supply, and they blew it up. And you can't buy the the board, and all the components just blew off the board here. So basically what I'm doing is transplant uh making it work again rather than throwing it in the skip because it's a really good uh swing chair. So what I'm going to do here now is I'm ready to do the soldering. So these here can be wired directly in parallel.
Um I'm just going to maybe bring this panel onto view. I'll get rid of all these tools first.
Okay. So, here is the socket to supply into the the swinging seat, the chair.
>> So, what I'm going to do, I could do it two ways here. Um, obviously, I need to feed the input cables to this port or to this socket, which will be here. Um, and what I'm going to do is I'm going to glue these into position so they don't um fall down onto the guides onto these wheels because obviously they're going to be squashed or squashed. Um, I could do this two ways, as I say. I could cut these two wires and make a connection, or I could just solder them directly to the socket. Um, what am I going to do?
I'm not sure yet.
I might solder them directly to the socket. Okay. So, I might, uh, put the two of them into parallel and then solder them.
>> So, I need to be careful where I have these, uh, wires or these cables because they could be squashed by this cover, too.
So, um, >> you get the just here now as I go.
>> So, I'm going to glue them up here high.
>> I'll just cut this so it doesn't confuse things.
So, I'll just let that set a minute there.
>> Put an army bit here.
>> It's not going to fall off.
So, will this platform hit the cables, the wires? No, cuz that's as far back as it goes.
>> Okay.
>> So, can I flip this around now? Well, I'll do it here first.
What I'll do is I'll trim this.
Okay. So, we'll glue this to when I'm at it.
>> Up a wee bit. Put a bit in this corner.
Need a stick.
I'm trying to keep it neat even though you're never going to see it.
It's not coming off there. So, I'll let this set and we'll get on to the other one.
Right. So, we're now going to glue the other module, the input wires. Going to try and keep them nice and neat, not twisted.
And I'm keeping them up a wee bit from the base here because the base, this part has we nodules, little guides that will squish the wires. So, if I keep it up a good um maybe keep it to the side of this extruded part.
Beautiful.
I should have cut this first. I can do it when it dries. So, I'll wait till it sets. We'll get it wired here.
So the wires or the cables are up nice and high so they don't catch on the base or the base doesn't catch on the cables or the speaker wire. Um the modules are in position and we're good to go here.
So just wire it up here. Now we're going to put these into parallel onto the port. Well, it might go onto the port.
It might go on to the the wires because there's more flexibility taking the the base cover on and off, if that makes sense.
So, I'm cutting this roughly 10 mil and I'm going to place the two of them into a parallel connection. So, black line to black line and white to white.
So, wait till this glue sets here and then we'll get this wired, get it finished.
So, I have made my mind up here. What I'm going to do is I'm going to wire uh the two modules directly to the socket on the cover here.
So, um the glue works really well there and holding these uh wires in position.
We all speaker cable. So, I still need this. So, I'll set it there. I've got my gas solder there and the other ones in the house. I would prefer the other one for doing this, but I don't have it here. U my proper soldering station.
So, I'm basically going to raise the socket out of the cover for handiness.
Just uncip it like so.
So, my initial idea was to cut the splice the wires and solder this directly on and shrink wrap it and stuff, but I'm just going to do it like this because I think there'll be more uh flexibility or more room when I go to uh place the cover back on here. And also the the wires will be soldered directly at this point. I won't need to cut the yellow and the brown wire. So, just to point out here, yellow is positive and brown is negative.
Okay.
So, we're going to get the iron heated up here.
So, I got her loaded up of gas. I'm just going to top her up full.
So, I don't think I'm going to need shrink wrap. I'll put two bits on anyway.
I'm just going to cut this in half and use one piece.
Good job. Wait for this iron to heat up here.
Got me solder and I got my flux ready here.
So, I need to be sure that the power supply supplying these two control modules is sufficient now that um so I'm going to do like a test at the end of this. No, not in this live stream, but on the main video or or I could just rate it up. I could maybe rate it say 2 amps. The one the original one was 1 amps. Um but now that I've got this um additional circuitry and voltage regulation uh here, I just need to be careful.
So I'll wait for the iron to heat. We'll get these soldered on.
So, I need to put the black line to the yellow.
And I also need the black line and the black line connected together, which they are.
Going to cut these at about 5 mil.
A we bit longer.
Hit the socket. I'm just going to turn it up here.
If it sets for me.
Oh.
So, we have a problem with the iron there. I just knocked it on the bench.
Still slack.
That'll be all right.
Okay, we're going to wire this now. Now, shoulder up.
So I need this close.
So black line to the yellow.
Try not to block the main camera here.
Perfect. Oh my fingers. By figures by figures.
So now negative to the bottom. See the shrink wrap's not doing very much. So I might just get rid of it.
Or I could just keep it on for the looks of things.
So now the negative wire here.
Hopefully these wires aren't in the way.
Or will they be?
Take a chance. Take a chance, Jeffrey.
There'll be fingers.
Perfect connection.
Soldering connection.
So that's it done everyone.
All completed.
So will it work? Well, you're going to have to watch the main video on my channel.
It'll be perfect.
soldering needs a little bit of attention.
So, what I need to do here now is place this socket back into the the base here.
Wall go. Yes, it does.
Well, that will, but I'll I'll lash a lot of glue in it. Keep it in.
So, we'll get this glued here now.
Reborn. All right. Right. What I'm going to do here now is I'm going to get the socket glued in so it doesn't come out.
Wants to come out.
Perfect. Wait for this to cool. We'll put the base back on to the swinging chair.
Okay. So before I do the first test, I need to reattach the supply going to this control board, the damage board.
It's not going to supply the motors now, but it supplies the relaxing sounds. So here we go. We'll get this plugged in.
So as well as plugging them in, I'm going to glue them. So I'll just wait for this glue gun to heat up here. want to glue them just in case they pull out.
One, two, three, four plugs.
Okay, so a wee bit of glue around these wires to hold them in.
And now these plugs into the sockets.
So, let this cool and we'll get the cover on.
Okay. So, I can now mount the cover, the base cover. Again, just making sure that we have the wires all in the right place and they're not intertwined with anything.
They're squashed.
Just been very careful here.
There we go.
That should be it. So, I'll get the screws on here now.
Just going to juke through here again.
Two in. And it looks good.
So this chair, this swinging chair can also accept four double or sorry four D size batteries in here.
So five more screws and I'm ready to test this.
Three.
So, I think what I'm going to do in the future is if you see the power supply for this unit, this chair, I'm going to maybe mark it with a a big bright um like a sleeve on the cable or something so that my sister doesn't get mixed up from the power supply. We don't want to blow up the two new modules. So, that's it. The final part, the final process, the final stage is adding these we control knobs.
So off I have it off with the the we line on the control knob facing down like so.
So if my sister now wants to increase the speed of the sway, she just turns this to the right clockwise.
And if she wants to increase the speed of the back and forward motion, she just turns this clockwise.
So that's 5 volts and that would be 1.25 and then off.
So remember there's actually a switch in the potentiometer.
So that is 1.25 25 volts just at the start when you go past when you turn the switch on that'll be 1.25 volts. That will be the slowest speed. And then we have 5 volts would be the maximum supply of the power supply. So that's it. We'll get this tested here now. But they look quite well, don't they?
So hopefully this works here. Now I'm going to do a retest.
Okay. So here we have a 5V 1 amp supply power supply.
So um I'm going to plug it in here now to the mains. So I've made this up the proper one still up in Balina Manard at my my sisters my elder sister. So here we So, we're going to plug it in.
So, the first thing I'm going to check here is does this still work this panel?
It does, cuz I can see the blue lights.
So, it's actually moving there now. Very slow.
See if I turn it on here.
So if I turn it off on there, we have the sound.
So there's actually a we small voltage getting through the motors through the ME modules, but it's okay.
So we have the sound working, the birdie, the volume's working.
So now we're going to check these switches, turn them on. So see how it speeds up, goes back and forward. I can control it now with this uh adjustable voltage regulator.
That's buck converter.
So what I'm going to do now, I'm going to see if the sway works side to side.
There we go. It's working perfect and I can control the speed of it. I can have it going flat out both of them. So that'll be five W. But obviously you're not going to have it going at that pace the way it be suck the baby. So I'm going to have these down very very low like maybe about there.
I think we had it me and my ex-girlfriend had it at about that speed.
Maybe a we bit slower on the sway. So remember the sway is now uh at this side. So I kept this potentiometer close to the field board, the field potentiometer on this board.
So I'm going to turn them both down to the slowest pace here. That is the slowest pace and it's working perfect. So what I'm going to do here, what I'm going to do now, I can't get my words out. What I'm going to do here now is I'm going to take this to my sisters in money mower and put the second part onto this base which is the chair the seat part and demonstrate it working in the final clip. So that's it everyone. We'll take it to Money Moore here now probably about an hour's drive away.
So I'll take the camera with me and we'll get a we final video clip here.
So what do you see? There's music, too.
Look, it's all working perfect.
I think the B control knobs look really nice against the white, don't they?
So, this one's for forward and back. Too fast. Maybe about maybe about that piece there, maybe.
And then the sway that's as fast as the sway goes.
And maybe you would have it around that paste. So we'll take it to money more here and see how it goes.
Good job.
Okay. So I'm currently in money more and we're going to test fit this now. Should fit because it belongs to it.
There we go. So we're going to turn her on here now. First thing we start with the PCB board at the front boarding noises all working perfect. So these two control knobs now are useless. If I want to now control the speed going back and forward or the forward and back motion, I would use this.
There we go.
Perfect. I can speed it up if I want to.
And if I want the side to side action, I turn this one on.
There we go. Perfect.
If I want it a wee bit faster, that's too much.
So that's it everyone. All going again.
Perfect. So thanks for watching everyone and peace out.
We also have this little vibration thing here at this point.
So if I want to turn off say back to forward, back to forward, I would just turn this potentiometer to the left anticlockwise.
And if I want to turn off side to side, I would turn this one off.
This uh vibrator is independent of the bottom part.
So again, we'll turn it on. So that's obviously too fast.
and then forward to back.
So, it sort of goes in circular motions.
So, thank you for watching everyone and goodbye. Peace out.
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