Proper turbo tuning requires systematic data logging and fuel system diagnostics to ensure safe engine operation; the key steps include performing smoke tests to detect air leaks, using a Noid light to verify ECU signal to injectors, monitoring Air-Fuel Ratios (AFR) to prevent engine damage (keeping AFRs between 10-12 at wide open throttle), and ensuring fuel pressure increases proportionally with boost pressure to maintain correct air-fuel mixture under load.
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BMW E46 TURBO BUILD PT.9 - TUNING AND LOGGING
Added:long step.
What's going on, guys? It's your boy Alec aka Python Don, and welcome to part nine of Project Yoshiitsu, my $100 eBay turbo build on my BMW E46. In this video series, I'll be taking you through a detailed and thorough journey of building an E46 turbo start to finish with information on every part required and work through what it actually takes to get this job done. Sit back, get comfortable, and join me in these long- form, in-depth episodes as we take this BMW E46 to the next level. In the last episode, we finally found a fabricator to make a custom 3-in catless stainless steel exhaust system, including a custom-designed recirculating wastegate.
This might be one of the best sounding Turbo E46s I've ever heard.
More sound clips on this coming soon. We also finally got our first start, boys, after weeks chasing a wiring mistake I made with the MAF harness. With the car finally all buttoned up, fluids checked and cleaned, it's time to get started on episode 9, tuning and logging. This episode will dial in Yoshimsu enough for some full wide openen throttle pulls and confirm everything is running right before upping the boost. Without further ado, guys, let's get into episode 9 of Project Yoshiitsu.
I picked up where we left off in episode 8 and got right into a smoke test on Project Yoshimitsu. We got our first start and we've checked fluids and things are looking right. The last thing we should do before swapping injectors and installing our base tune is to check for any air leaks. We removed and reinstalled the intake manifold with new gaskets, rebuilt the dies, modified the ICV, custom plumbing, all of it. A smoke test is a real good way to check for leaks, as the smoke can reveal the location of where the [music] leak is.
This smoke machine I bought off Amazon claims to produce up to 25 PSI of pressure, so it should be more than enough to show a leak if I have one.
A little tip, a garage with the lights off and a flashlight [music] for inspecting would be best method to spot leaks. Sure enough, I got a small leak from the Diesa valve barb fitting that I drilled a hole for back in episode 5.
>> I bought some JB Weld clear epoxy and applied it to the perimeter of the barb [music] fitting to seal it all up.
The next day, I went in for the retest to see if it worked. Turns out that was the only area I was leaking from. Not bad considering so many things we removed and reinstalled during the process of the build.
Now, this episode has been a bit trickier to edit as I've now been back to work and would record clips after hours or whenever I got a chance to get to my uncles to do the work. The structure we had in previous episodes as I sectioned off parts to install based on each step of the build is no longer there since all the parts are installed at this point.
>> Invincible.
because the tuning process is a bit redundant between tunes, [music] idling, adjusting small things, retune. There's just some parts which I didn't decide to shoot. On top of all that, I ran into two huge problems that completely crushed my momentum that we left off with in episode 8. And my desire to shoot was in the gutter. I'll try to explain it here and summarize most of it so you guys don't have to watch two months worth of troubleshooting, but I want to include it in the episode to show transparency and possibly help someone else down the line if they ever go through something similar.
The very last item in the parts list guide you are going to install is the larger injectors. When we did our first start in episode 8, we were still running factory ECU and factory injectors. The first start is just to check for leaks, both air and liquids, to confirm the entire system is functioning properly. Once you checked for both air and liquids, you can begin the first step of the tuning process, which is to install your larger injectors and your tune.
With the old injectors out, the new larger injectors in, and the official base tune installed, it's time to go for a start here. If everything is done right, you should get a startup after a few cranks.
Not in my case. Pretty odd. Not sure where that's about yet.
>> The tuner suspected the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or some fuel related issue that would cause the injectors to not spray enough fuel for a start. What I just couldn't understand was how the car was running and idling fine just before I installed the new injectors and uploaded the tune. Nonetheless, there were some items in the car he wanted me to change if he was going to be tuning it. And since one of those items could be related to my issue, it was recommended to work on those next.
Remember the Yoshi Mitsu part two update video where I installed the AM gauge and the DW200 fuel pump? Well, I was in the middle of all this when I shot that video.
I got my tune in, my new injectors in. I removed the AM340 fuel pump and replaced it with the DW200.
Still no start.
All righty, boys. Here we are back in front of the beast. Holy [ __ ] It's been almost two weeks since I've been out here, guys. I literally worked for 12 days straight. End of the month, just grinding out those 12 days, but I haven't been able to get here and work on this car for two weeks straight, let alone editing and everything, boys. So, we are going to figure out why this car is having a no start. Um, I already put the fuel pump in. So, we got a new fuel pump in. The DW200 is in. I got the AM340 up for sale right now. Um, we're going to do some troubleshooting now that the fuel pump's back in. I can actually crank the key and stuff. We're going to see why we're not getting fuel.
Or maybe we are getting fuel. It's just not enough. We're going to sort it all out now. So, let me get you up to speed on what's next. I went ahead and bought a Noid light. Let's see.
This thing right here. Get it at Harbor Freight for like 30 bucks. Um, it's got some connectors specifically for Bosch connectors, which is what we're going to be using. And essentially what you do is you plug it into your harness here and you turn the key and it's going to tell you with by flashing like flashing a light whether you have signal going to your injectors. So that's the first thing we're going to check. Are we getting a signal to the injectors? If we are getting a signal to the injectors, we can then test the injectors themselves. So um we're going to start with that. Let's do a noid light. See if we get a signal. Um something interesting about that is you can't back probe this harness with the multimeter.
The way uh these fuel injectors get their signal is kind of unique and uh it's just not something you can do. But that's what the NOID light is for. It plugs into this harness and it'll look for that signal, that unique signal that it it gives to the injectors. And when it flashes, that's going to tell us we have a signal or not. So, that's the first thing we're going to get going.
I'm going to hook that up to this puppy and let's see if we got a signal going to these injectors. Of course, before we can get to taking this harness back off, I got to go through now and remove all those metal clips again. So, this is going to be a ton of fun. Just a little bit annoying. So, let's get into that.
We'll remove the clips off this and then we'll go into uh plugging that bad boy in.
All right. Now that we have the clips off, we can open our Nid light kit and we're going to look for the one that's for Bosch. We got a Bosch two pin and then another Bosch PFI with more like round circular shaped pins. I'm going to go with this two pin one. I think this is going to be the right one. So, I'm going to plug this in like that. I think that should be enough to turn the key and see if we get any flashing or any light going off. So, I'm going to try that now.
So, that noise light is showing us that the DME is not sending a signal to the car to fire the injectors. This is the reason for our no start after the tune.
The tuner can only suspect a bad fuse or relays, which worried the hell out of me, especially coming off episode 8 with all the DME fuse issues I was dealing with. But fuses and relays are related to the 12-volt side of the injectors.
And the NOI light is actually checking the other pin on the injector harness for a ground pulse signal, a signal that can only come from the ECU.
Meaning, if I have an issue on the ECU side, I may need a new one. And we still can't explain how the car was running and starting before the tune.
So, I reached out to Armen to hear his thoughts on what could be happening. For those that don't know, Armen is one of the OGs in the scene and built the original BMW E46 turbo guide online. I actually loosely built my parts list guide off his and although his guide is for a bottom mount turbo setup, I highly recommend reading through this entire page. [music] He's also extremely savvy when it comes to diagnostics of BMW ECU and coding.
When I told Armen of my issues, he right away thought about the EWS system and asked if I've ever had any new keys made for the car. Years ago, I came across a no start issue with my car, and it turned out to be related to the EWS system. For those that don't know, there's a little gray box deep in the driver side footwell behind the pedal box. That gray little box is known as the EWS. And sometimes there's a rare issue that happens to our E46s where the box begins to fail and the keys slowly lose functionality and eventually are no longer able to start the car. [music] The only fix is to send your ECU and EWS out to get repaired along with new keys to be cut and programmed. In short, if you have ever had an EWS repair in the past, when you go to install your base tune, the car will actually lose the keys that were paired and you need to go through a procedure to repair them.
This, as a safety measure, turns off the injectors from firing. so the car cannot be stolen. After explaining the EWS issues I had in the past, Armen texted over a list of instructions that felt like inputting cheat codes for unlimited ammo in Grand Theft Auto. Up, down, left, right, R2, R2, and the car starts.
>> [music] >> Nothing, boys. We might just be spraying too much fuel probably. It's either too rich or too lean. One of the two.
Literally remove the harness from the [snorts] injectors.
Check this out. If I go over here now for a start, crazy.
Don't know why that has to do with that.
I don't know. I do know I get a better start with the injectors not being told what to do versus Yeah. versus the opposite. So, anyways guys, we'll catch up. Let's figure out this this next step.
So, we are finally over our first issue of not being able to start the car. But, as you can see, we are quickly running into the second. When the harness is completely disconnected, the car runs longer than it does with the harness connected and the computer telling the injectors what to do. My tuner suspects hardware issues even more. Now, with the power of editing, I can cut out the two fuel pump replacement jobs, two fuel filters, multiple fuel pressure tests with shitty Harbor Freight fuel pressure gauges, buying a turd Amazon endoscope to try and see fuel leaks at the fuel chassis, and about another month of fussing around to get to this point here. We got problem number two.
And after all that diagnosis, no hardware issues are jumping out at either of us at this point. But since the car starts with the injectors disconnected versus connected, this may very well indicate the injectors are spraying way too much fuel. And when I remove them from the equation completely, the vapors alone from all the spraying are being ignited in the combustion chamber.
The tuna decides to send me a modified start map that commands the injectors to spray less fuel all around.
Okay, let's go for it.
Catch. Catch. Come on.
There we go.
10. Is that even Is that accurate? I don't know. It's at 10 though.
>> Smells like gas.
>> Yeah.
I told you guys this is all new to me.
Yeah, I actually asked the tuner if a 10 AFR at idle is normal. I've never done anything like this, guys. So, a lot of this is me learning through this project itself, literally. Those more savvy than me may have a good idea as to what can be caused in the really rich conditions, but we'll discover the issue shortly [music] as we get into the meat of the tuning process. Essentially, the AFRs being at 10 means the car is running extremely rich, spraying a lot of fuel, and is a huge red flag to some hardware issue in my setup.
Now that the car is actually idling, we can get a log to the tuner to see if we can get more data about what's going on.
We cannot record a log without some sort of actual running idle. So, finally getting it starting and at least idling was a huge breakthrough nonetheless.
With a log, hopefully we can discover what is going on. This leads us into the whole basis of this video, the tuning process [music] itself.
What makes up the tuning process when turboring an E46? It really consists of logging a bunch of data for your tuner during different driving scenarios like idling, cruising, and wide openen throttle pools in which you send to him.
He works his magic and sends back to you to make your car run smoother, safer, and ultimately faster.
Without the ability to log data, the remote tuning process would be impossible.
Now, forgive me for saying this on episode 9 of my build series, but in reality, finding your tuner is one of the first things you should do when you've decided you want to turbo your E46. They have insane amount of knowledge when it comes to what is actually possible with this platform and can guide you in the right direction as to what are the best practices and what has worked and not. There's a handful of tuners on the market and you can reach out to the guys on the Facebook M54 turbo marketplace to get a feedback on who they've gone through and what results they've had. Once you've chosen your tuner and you are ready to begin the remote tuning process with them. You will want to make sure all of your hardware is installed properly. The more organized and clean your build is, the better the tuner can help you diagnose any issues that might arise and trust that you actually know what you're doing if troubleshooting arises. There's no amount of tuning you can do to fix a car that isn't put together properly. So, having a healthy base is most important.
If you guys haven't caught it already, our tuner for project Yoshimitsu is Jules from BE Racing. He is extremely well-versed on our platform and has a great website with products specifically made for turboing and E46 that he has worked with and can stand behind. Also, check out his blog and read through it all if you have time. We'll give you really good insights on the tuning process, right and wrong hardware to use, tactics to help increase longevity with your E46, all of it. He's tuned E46s to over 800 horsepower, so he knows what he's talking about. At this point, he wants me to get a log for him to see if we can figure out why we're so rich at idle.
So, here's what we'll need to get set up for logging.
A laptop with Windows 10 or 11. your logging software, which we'll get into in just a sec, an OBD2 to USB data cable, an AFR data logging cable, and an adapter to USB, and a Built Turbo E46.
The tunes themselves will be uploaded via the OBD2 USB cable using the tuning software your tuner provides when you make a purchase. All of these cables and adapters can be found in the Project Ochimitsu parts list guide, which you can find in the description box below.
>> [music] >> I used to wonder what those laptops in the passenger seat of like all-wheel drive turbo Civics were there for. Now look at us. We're putting one together right now. The logging software BE Racing recommends is called ROM Raider.
It's free and with the instructions on BER Racing's page, you can get it set up and running in no time. Here's a freeze frame of all the data we'll be logging for the tuner during different driving conditions. All this live data is gathered from the OBD2 port under the dash using the OBD2 USB cable mentioned before, except for the AFR data. In order to log AFR data, we will need a specific AFR gauge and a sensor that is compatible with ROM Raider.
I love the look of the glow shift gauges, but unfortunately the AFR glow shift gauge I bought to match the temp and pressure sensor gauge does not translate live AFR data into a language ROM raider can read and understand. So, it's out and replacing it is our AEM Yugo. It might not be the prettiest AFR gauge, but it's dead reliable and a go-to in the industry. Not only will we need to swap out the glow shift gauge and the AFR sensor still in the downpipe, we'll need to also add a pin to the back of the harness on the AEM gauge so it [music] can send an AFR signal into ROM Raider so we can have a complete logging data package that I can then send over to the tuner to review.
All righty, boys. Now that we understand what logging is and have our logging software all set up, we now need to prepare our new AEM AFR gauge to be able to translate data to the language in which this older car can understand. So, on the back of this cable, you'll see it has some extra ports there. One of the pins that I'm going to be adding is uh pin number five. I want to say that pin is going to go to one of these type cables to translate data that then we can store into ROM Raider or that we can read in ROM Raider live on the fly. So, this right here is really split for two things. We got one for power and ground, which is literally just powering this unit, and the other is a data cable.
It's just a more modern version that we're not going to be able to use uh with our older software. So, on the back of the AFR gauge, you can see there's two ports. One is directly just for the sensor itself and the cable to communicate with that sensor. And the other one is uh one of these two. I can't remember which of the two it is, but the other one is going to be for power. This form of data information.
And then we're going to add a third cable now to that port there to translate to the data we are going to be uh giving it. So what is that cable? Let me show you. Now this is going to be the communication cable we're going to need to log the AFR data for ROM Raider. So, it's called a serial SR232, if I'm not mistaken. It looks really similar to like your VGA cable you would use for like your old monitors for those that are uh old enough to remember those. And on the end here, it's already pinned.
And I'm just going to use two of these.
One for ground. I think it's that one.
And then I don't know if it's this blue one or whatever, but these are all numbered to match the amount of numbers that are here. And it's one of these that I'm going to grab with a ground one. And we're going to wire it the back of that guy to then when we turn the key and we're running the car, it's going to be sending a signal through this cable into here, which has a little port in the back, which I plugged this guy into, and then this one into the uh USB port on the laptop. So, that's what we're here to accomplish, guys. Another step here, but a really important one. If we're going to be staying with factory MS43, we need to be able to log AFR. And this is the whole reason I changed out this AFR gauge in the first place. Not only does this AFR gauge produce a signal that's for more modern cars like this one, it does produce through pin five there and attachments here a signal for an older style setup like what I have in the older BMWs. So, that's it, guys. I'm going to work on wiring this all up, but let me show you how to work it. If you plan on using this AM gauge, this is going to be what is going to be required or how we're going to do this in order to make this work with the car.
Let's get rolling, boys. Let's do this.
Looks like my serial cable doesn't seem to be communicating anything to the AM, but I'm going to go for a start anyways and at least get you guys a log for uh like a minute idle. I'll be able to just record the AFR gauge numbers for now.
And I don't know, we can I can I can take some more time figuring out why I'm not getting a signal there. So, I'm going to go for a start now.
Very rich.
Yeah, I can smell the fuel.
Man, hindsight really is 2020. And at the time, I had no clue what I was looking at during the log. Sure enough, when you go back and watch the footage, you can see the cell for load is actually pinged at 1389. This load cell is actually calculating the amount of air in milligs each cylinder is intaking per stroke. And right now, it's currently stuck at its highest measurable value. The values coming from this cell also dictate the precise amount of fuel the computer tells the injectors to spray to create a healthy air fuel mixture under different load conditions. This amount of air is equivalent to something like full throttle at 15 psi of boost. So you can imagine how much fuel is spraying to try and match. Understanding how this cell gets its data will help explain exactly where to find our issue. This math measures air using a hot filament that cools as air molecules pass [music] over it. The more the hot filament gets cooled, the more air is being measured.
The measurement is read in voltage. To make it easy, when the filament is hot and not a lot of air is passing over it, let's say at idle, the voltage is very low, like 0.1 volts low. As more air comes in and cools the filament down, the volts increase. The math voltage and load cell are directly correlated. So, we can assume if the load is high, so is the voltage going to that wire. This is our math harness diagram we made last episode. The BMW provides power and ground to the math sensor, which in turn provides the voltage signal back to the computer on the BMW.
What are the chances I have the wires mixed up again and the wrong wire is actually receiving the 12 volts from the BMW.
This explains our extremely rich condition at idle. When the tuner sent me an adjusted map to remove some fuel from startup, he knew something related to fueling was up, but I couldn't find it until we got the logging data pulled in to see the values. The new map pulled back just enough fuel to get the car to run in this state here and get him a log. Having 12 volts going directly into the signal wire, which might see.12 volts at idle, caused the car to think it was under extreme load, in turn telling the injectors to spray the max amount of fuel possible. This is the reason I'm running so rich and really has been the entire reason this car hasn't had a nice start since we reynced the keys in problem number one. Had this one math harness been wired up properly all the way back in episode 7, I would have had a running car 3 months earlier and skipped all the headaches related to troubleshooting for fueling and the rest. I can't explain enough how important wiring the math properly is.
purchasing a high quality math harness like the one above and learning from my mistakes, you should have no issue getting it right the first time. Let's see if we finally gotten over this damn hill.
Boys, I think we may have fixed the reason why this thing isn't starting. We got the AM wideband now giving us a signal throttle position. We got accelerator pedal. All that's been working, but we now have proper volts to the mass air flow sensor.
Nothing out of line.
I think I'm ready for a start. And this time with hopefully, God willing, a better setup. See what we can do. Let the pump prime.
No way, boys.
No way.
Let's start a log. I should have started it on startup, but 16 or so.
Much better. Oh my gosh.
So much better. Holy [ __ ] This is the best she's sounding, boys.
Still recording a log. It's going for minutes now. Listen to this.
She's purring.
She's purring, boys.
That bad boy in there.
I've been logging for a good two minutes right now.
Smell the exhaust warming up.
You want to get a little rev going.
>> [laughter] >> Foundation.
What's going on, guys? Back again.
Finally, another day. And I think it's about that time, guys. We finally have solved the reason this car was not starting the entire time. Holy [ __ ] What the heck was that about? That was so crazy. A lot of lessons to go over with that one there. But, uh, I wanted to get you guys an update. Today is the day we're getting this car on the ground. I'm driving it out of that gate.
Now, I'm not making boost or anything, but it's going to be rolling on its own.
Four tires. And uh we're going to get a log today, guys. A log. Finally, a rolling log to see how the car is handling, how it's performing without boost, just on its own. We're finally going to be putting parts onto this car that have been off this car for the entire time we're doing the build. We got a lot of stuff to get done today. It has to be done today. This car has to get on the ground today. So, we're doing it. Cables all tightened back up. Glove box back in. We're going to put all of our trim pieces back on. Put the screen back in. Get the AM gauge all dialed in and just looking at the right shape. All of it. All of it's got to get done, guys. There's a ton ton of tools that I've been using back here. We got our still some of the fuel pump related stuff when I was swapping different pumps. Oh my god, boys. All the parts that I have been fiddling with after getting the initial first start are finally all operating properly as they should be. I've learned so much in this last episode and uh it's crazy just on episode I think end of episode seven when we did all the wiring everything was done and the car was getting off to go get fabrication work done and I was like all the intense stuff that I needed to do is done we just need a fabricator now to get that part done and the tune that was kind of halfway correct in all reality wasn't a whole lot to do from that point to this but man it almost took two months granted I was back to work and I am back to work now so that's that's actually eaten a lot of my time but there was still a a lot of small things that uh I didn't realize I had [ __ ] up or needed to get squared away.
So, they're all squared away now. We can summarize it in a little bit, but right now I want to just get this part done.
Let's get this car on the ground, boys, for the first time and move it under its own power for the first time in almost a year. So, God, I'm so ready. So, anyways, we got a lot of [ __ ] to do. We got to get going. I'm going to time lapse half of this, boys, just so I can make some progress here. Yeah. Let's see what this baby's like when it's all cleaned up and on the ground. Let's get it, boys. Let's do it.
Heat up here.
>> [music] >> Success.
Huh?
Huh?
Good morning.
[music] Welcome.
Check this [ __ ] out. [laughter] Holy [ __ ] Let me wipe the lens. Hold on. Hold on.
Bro, she's on the ground, guys.
The zetons, those angel eyes are so bright.
Oh my god. Remember, we're like base base tune here. Idle tune. I haven't even got it moving yet. So, this is the first time we're going to try to get it moving under its own power and just see how the car is behaving and operating.
The goal for tonight is just get a log going. So, let's get this thing plugged in.
Unfortunately, guys, I accidentally deleted my first drive clip. It was purely cruising to get the car up to temperature. After the test run and log, I parked it back up and did a quick inspection under the hood. We're going to skip through the initial idle and cruising logs and jump into my first log where I'm allowed to build a little bit of boost. This is probably map five out of nine at this point. We still have some kinks to sort out, but this will show you the tuning and logging process from start to finish and my first time really taking it a bit deeper into the RPM band.
All righty, boys. Another night back at it. We are going to do our latest tune right now. So, I'm in the car right now.
Got it on the driveway. I got the tender hooked up to it. Got it charging the battery. these little mini tunes that we're doing to get revisions tighter and tighter are only like 45 seconds uh to get installed. But um supposedly if the voltage isn't right, you don't want any of this going wrong. So, but I want to take you guys with me just on this part here where we're going to upload the latest tune and uh yeah, I'm just going to do another handheld boys. We're going to go with it. So, uh stick with me, guys. Let's get to it. All right, so let's get in this car. Key to key2 and let's begin this process. So key two, let's get into identify just make sure we can read the car, which we are. I actually want ROM raider closed, which it is good. We're going to uh write a tune. We're going up to right.
Let's go to right tune.
Let's load up our latest, which is this bad boy here. We're going to write tune.
There it goes.
3 seconds. 4 seconds.
And we wait.
Successfully flashed. There we go. We're going to power off for 10 seconds now.
All right.
Back on to key two.
Let's now go over to clear.
We're going to clear all DTC's and clear adaptations. Perfect. And we're after flashing it to reset, turn the car off again for 10 seconds. I'm going to let it roll down the hill a bit and then we'll go for a start just cuz I don't want uh to start it and just be hanging out here in the garage. My uncle's going to be coming in and out of here. So, let me do that real quick.
We're going to see how it handles uh while moving. If it feels any better.
I love taking this thing out, guys. It's so exciting.
All right, so I think with the boost gauge disconnected, I'm not going to get a reading, but I might actually still have reference from the front compressor housing. So, I'm not sure how that works, but let's see. Yeah, it looks like I still do.
Let me just see if this is still reading something.
Yeah, I think I'm getting a reference still. That's good.
I beam's on. Feels feels good.
[laughter] Oo, much more rumbles now.
Oh my gosh, guys. It sounds so good though. Holy [ __ ] That was 71 indicated. I'm not even trying. Let's see what the boost gauge says.
39.
Oh my gosh. All right, I'm going to try to feather it and not let the RPMs drop too low. I'm holding this with one hand, so I'm going to try to work this.
Uh, where could I do a UI?
Here. Yeah, we're going.
Let's go.
Holy [ __ ] This sounds insane.
[ __ ] What the [ __ ] Should we go? Should I go all the way to the gas station? Let's Let's do this.
All right, we're heading out there.
We're heading out there.
She bad, baby. She bad.
What's going on, guys? Gosh, we're back at it again, boys. This project is moving along, boys. We're finally over all the weird humps for the most part.
Knock on wood. I The car feels amazing.
I'm just waiting now, boys. So, we're just waiting to see if what his feedback is. If he says, "Hey, everything looks good. Uh, I think you should get into some boost. Send me a log in boost." I'm thinking that's where we're at. Cuz to be honest, it felt really, really nice.
We're just wait at this point, boys.
Waiting. Let's check out the beamer right now cuz it's just it's crazy to see it on the floor. It's just been so so freaking long.
Oh gosh, it looks so good. You guys have to see what I'm seeing though. Check this out. This has been like eating me up. And I think I mentioned it earlier in the video, but my tire fitment here versus my tire fitment back there. Like if I zoom in, I got a nice amount of stretch there. But here it's like fat ass tire wall. It's only like 5 mil taller, right? But I just got the wrong tire. I don't know what I was doing when I bought these. I was at work one day. I had a flat tire.
I was like, "Bro, just buy two. This is the specs I want." And I just really wasn't paying attention. I guess you can see I got a little piece dangling there.
That's for the horn. That's all going to get tucked away. So, we definitely got some cleaning up to do today. I'm going to show you guys what we're going to get into in a second, but I just want to get you She does sit pretty freaking low. We got new coilovers coming in soon. We're going to do a video on that. I already have them here. Um, but yeah, definitely getting new tires. We're going to fix that fitment. We're going to drop the rears a little bit lower to match how low the front is. And I think with the new tire fitment and stuff, it's going to look so freaking meaty. But one thing I didn't like about that rear bumper is just it doesn't sit as low as like the skirts and the front bumper. But now with the muffler and the exhaust, I think it looks really good. Guys, we have a whole another minieries just on the interior renovation cuz I got some tings coming, boys. And then once we're done with that mini chapter, episode two of the little cosmetic series is going to be the full exterior. Wait till you guys see what I got coming. Look how sick it already looks, guys. Gosh.
Headlights are kind of out of alignment.
I want to straighten all that out. the bumper wouldn't get repainted. But, um, you can see here I had already made some trimmings uh with the Sharpie and I thought I kind of marked it up pretty well, but the silver blade that goes over the front, y'all guys seen that. It didn't even fit. I still need to make some cuts for to fit this coupler here.
Um, so we're going to get the bumper kind of shaped up. This part of the the video is I want to clean up this engine bay. To be honest, I am not a fan of how this looks. I have hopefully a workar around for that. This thing is only here because how close this pipe gets to more coils. I have a feeling this will be a very big issue once I start pulling and actually making a lot of heat. Um, this being so close is not going to be good.
But I'm trying to come up with a different plan because I really like the way that looks like just the coils exposed. I mean, they're brand new. Like it just looks so much sexier. I have something I'm going to try to fit into there in this gap. I'll show you guys what that is in a second. Um, this oil feed line is so crusty now that I put this sleeve over it. And I know it's a heat sleeve, but I put it over it because the metal line that was underneath this inside of this is kind of already scratching the valve cover. I have another workar around for that we're going to get into. Um, so I want to just clean this up, make this area a bit sexier. We're going to remove this guy here because this is actually turns out a fire issue, like a I don't know what you call that, a fire hazard, I should say. So, we're going to remove this and we're going to do some gold heat tape just in this area here where this turbo is going to sit. I don't want to go too crazy with the gold tape because to me it looks pretty [ __ ] tacky and I already got a gold valve cover which is about as tacky enough.
Um, so yeah, right now we're just going to be cleaning up the engine bay, tightening up some few things. We're going to realign these headlights a bit.
So you don't need guys to be with me on that. I can I can do that on my own and we'll probably trim up the bumper. But definitely in today's video I want to see if we can clean up this engine bay a bit more and see if kind of my heat resistant, you know, shield there is going to work. Tape up some wires, really get the headlight wiring and everything cleaned up while we wait for this tune, boys. So, anyways, it's enough talking. Just want to get you guys some shots of this and kind of show you where we're at. But cannot wait. I'm kind of glad I kept the little kidneys and the the snorkel. This engine bay is going to get like fully cleaned up.
Let's get to kind of showing you what I have for uh some of these fixes here.
[music] Mhm.
[music] Hold on to the beat.
Hey, hey, [music] [music] hey.
No, no.
>> [music] >> Come on.
Come on.
Come on.
Come on.
help.
[music] [music] He All righty, boys. Woo!
Here we are. Holy crap. I got the mic kind of close to me because I want to avoid the the seat belt action. So, I just did that little woo. And I'm wondering if I blew your guys' eardrums out, but that's me being a good, considerate YouTuber to you guys. Uh, we're in the car, guys. And guess what?
The windows are up. You know what that means, right? That AC is ice cold, guys.
Ice cold. So, uh, am I one of the first top mount E46 turbos with working AC right now, boys? Did I just give you all that right now? Please guys, like and subscribe. This is so deep into this video. Again, if y'all are still here, but guys, the drivability part of the tune, I want to knock on wood. I think it's done, guys. Like, AC's working.
And listen, listen, listen, listen, Linda, listen to this flutter. Ready?
[laughter] [ __ ] [snorts] Oh my god. God, I have so much traffic in front of me right now. But um removing that like heat blanket under the hood and putting the gold foil obviously to one thing I find out is that I if that thing gets sprayed with oil and soaked and then it falls on your turbo and lights on fire, it's actually like a hazard. But man, removing that.
Holy [ __ ] guys. This thing sounds so good. Removing that allows me with the windows up like I hear the turbo like so well. So, shout out to no blowoff valve, by the way. If you want that all from the uh Oh my god. Yes. That's all from the uh the no blowoff valve. So, it's just that flutter, the uh the surge, I guess. But uh these are anti-urge turbos, so they supposedly can handle it. This this is a China turbo, guys. Let me reiterate.
This turbo was 108 bucks when I bought it.
Oh my gosh, this just feels Guys, guys, guys, what am I running? No boost controllers on right now. We're in the car.
AC works ice cold.
I'm cruising along in what, fourth gear, under 3,000. I can roll into it.
3.7 pounds of boost flashing at me. I have a little 4 and a half pound spring in here, guys. being we're going to be conservative with this one right now.
Next episode, 10 plus PSI. We're going to make some freaking power, boys. I can't This is already I'm not even kidding. I can tell this this feels pretty pretty good already. So, I can't I don't even know what 10 lbs is going to feel like. I have no clue what wide open throttle third gear 10 pounds is going to feel like. Let's uh We're pretty warmed up right now.
I got my radar on. I don't want to go crazy, but I think we can do like a second and third gear. Um, few other things I want to mention. We did engine mounts, transmission mounts, guys. I did everything in this car. Light and flywheel. That light and flywheel.
Insane. Okay. Shout out to Hopwood Motorsports, guys. I didn't do the dual mass and I don't regret it one bit. The drivability is is mint. It's just as the exact same as if it was factory. It doesn't feel any different. Go with the single mass over the dual mass. It's even lighter. And honestly, to me, I think the dual mass can handle more power, but I'm going to hopefully be pushing maybe 500 max in this car towards the end of all this. I think it's more than enough. And uh dude, it feels it straight up feels so natural, guys. So, shout out to Hopwood uh Hopwood Motorsports for that one. It's pricey, but it's worth it, guys. It revs so fast. Did you hear that? Um, yeah. Yeah. I'm just the shifter.
Not a fan of the garageistic short shift kit. Honestly, it didn't feel like any shorter of a shift, but I do love the handle. I do love the billet the billet handle. If I later down the line, I might do the solid chassis mounted so it like resorts to center on its own. Like that will probably be the next upgrade if I ever open this back up. But that was a whole another can of worms. Right now, I am happy with how it feels. It is much more direct. I feel confident in the shifting and the the handle feels so nice. I know you guys can't see it right now, but that is a really nice touch.
But yeah, let's uh we're going to get a few pulls together and just kind of get my feedback. The exhaust, by the way, guys, K64 Camille, if you guys don't go and buy his top mount manifold, don't talk to me. Do not talk to me. This is the best sounding E46 top mount turbo that I've heard on the internet.
You guys haven't even heard it yet, but we're going to do some tunnel runs. I'm going to find a tunnel. I'm in Florida.
I don't even have tunnels. There's one tunnel in my in my brain right now that I can think of that I can get to, but we're going to find under a highway somewhere before this video ends. And you guys got to hear this thing. It's it's it's literally insane. So, the tubular manifold down to a 3-in all the way back. Shout out to Upfab, Jamie at UpFab, because he's got to hear this. I haven't even driven this thing to him yet. Seriously, bro. Episode 8, I think we went over the exhaust setup. This is the first time I'm hearing it in the flesh. I haven't even gone full wide open. So, I've just revved it standstill. No load on the car, and it sounds insane, guys. 3-in all the way back with a vibrant. I'm I'm leading you to success here, please. This is This is it. This is it. Uh, anyways, I'm going to crack the window a little bit and uh let me get in this lane.
Oh, he thought I was slowing down. Nah, buddy. I'm about to I'm about to So, let's do a AC off for that extra power.
You know what I'm saying?
Whoa, buddy. Chill with the Toyota Matrix. What are we in fourth right now?
We're going to go down to uh a little traction off. Guys, this car is driving so good right now. I'm just Thank you, Lord.
Woo. All right, we're at 40 third.
No one behind us. We're going to do 30 and second. Let's roll into it. 65. I'm not going crazy.
Yo yo, you guys hear that turbo?
I'm peing at 3940.
40 even. That was 40. We're going to 14.
Yo, that was a That was a whack down shift.
Ready?
Oh.
Oh my god.
Holy [ __ ] boys.
Sayanara, boys.
You know that yellow GT3. I don't know if I've clipped it yet.
>> 3 2 1.
>> We're going to right now, mark my words, we're going to race that GT3. I'm going to get a video of us racing that GT3, guys. We're going to put it on the channel. See if we can pull on that thing or at least keep up with it. But um Oh my gosh, boys.
This sounds a downshifts. The rev matching now with that light flywheel, it's just that responsive like bro.
Oh my gosh, guys.
This is so nice. Right now, the tuner hasn't seen a single tune. That is like nothing going wrong. Everything's smooth.
So, I say, let's pull over somewhere. I'm going to get you guys on my head and let's uh let's get a log for him. A good juicy log with some pulls. Let's do it.
Let's get a little log here. Come on.
We'll start it. Uh, all right. We can see our parameters.
Everything's live right now. So, let's uh we're going to hit start log file.
Log into file. We got our uh OBD2 port reading all of this data. You can see it all moving on the fly. And then we got this guy reading the uh AFR. So, uh let's get in it.
Third gear. If I can get a fourth gear pull like all the way, guys.
We got there. Now we're Gucci.
Let's do a little second gear. I rolled into second because I almost felt like I don't know. It's a little damp out. I just got done raining a whole ton.
We'll do second again. We're at 2 and 1/2 and I'm wide.
Get on the brakes pretty good.
Woo, boys.
I honestly, it's so hard to look at both your reference gauges. I was not looking at AFR once there. I'm getting too comfortable with this car already. I didn't look at my AFRs once. I will get to a point where I can be driving this daily and not have to look at my AFRs ever. We're actually going to consolidate all these gauges into one over here. More on that in a different video. But I I love the gauges, guys.
They look dope. But to be honest, I really love a clean setup. I'm going to put the uh a gauge here that's going to have all this information for us, but not until we dial all this in. But uh that's just very future looking right now. That's just for another video. But just wanted to throw that out there. I don't know. You guys tell me what you like. You like both the gauges and all the action going on or once it's all dialed in, maybe a more cleaner setup.
Just rolling into it in fourth. Feels so good. What's that? Four on the boost controller flashing at me there.
Let's do a little check. See on AFR is rolling into it.
139 14. Yeah, you see little high. I wasn't wide open throttle there, but could be some of the reasons for it. But let's try third. God, I'm revving too quick for it.
I'm going to do wide open throttle and check AFRs.
No, see 148. No, 148's too lean for what I just was doing right there. We want to be more fuel.
Rather be in the 11 and 12 number. Keep the temperatures in the engine down. So, that was 14s. I was never noticing that.
Let's try that again. Let's see.
12 looks a little better.
No, 14 and 15s.
15. No, we need to add more fuel.
We need to add more fuel for sure. And really, he's been adjusting stuff based on my idle and all that stuff. And this is the first time I'm going to get them a good some good runs at wide openen throttle.
So I'm interested to see what the logs were if we can play that video back and see what my AFRs were when I was doing those second and third gear pulls.
Were they actually 14 to 15 at wide open? That's the highest I've ever seen them.
That's the highest I've ever seen them.
So, I'm gonna go I was going wide open throttle and my AFRs are like at 14. Um, and I knew anything higher than 12 AFR is pretty bad, but I didn't know how bad. Um, never push the car. If you see the AFRs going up higher than 12, get off the throttle. I was over here going to red line 6,000 something RPM with 14 and a half. So, I don't know, boys. There's a slight chance I actually damaged this engine already just from doing that that night.
Uh, so I'm beating myself up. Thank the Lord that I only had 4 PSI spring in there when I was doing this [ __ ] And I wasn't building any more boost than that because that's like if I would have done that with the 10 PSI spring in, I probably would have you probably would have watched me blowing the engine up live. So, I'm currently running into an an issue now at this late stage in the tune. Uh towards the end of those logs, I was looking and tuner's like, "Hey, dude. It looks like your fuel pressure is staying the same. It's being steady even though you're building boost." So, in this scenario, the reason that vacuum nipple gets put on the fuel pressure regulator down under the car is because when the charge pipe is has boost in it, that boost is going into that vacuum line into the fuel pressure regulator, telling the fuel pressure regulator, hey, I need you to increase the fuel pressure the exact amount that our boost is going up. So, if there's 10 psi in boost going into that vacuum line, the fuel pressure regulator knows, okay, 50 is the baseline. We're going to add 10 PSI of fuel pressure. We're going to be pushing 60 PSI of fuel pressure so that we can maintain enough fuel going into the combustion chamber. Uh, when boost pressure is increased, there's pressure going up against the injectors. So, the injectors want to spray fuel out, and there's boost pressure pushing the [ __ ] fuel back into the injector, which is crazy. So to offset that pressure going back into the injector, you need fuel pressure to increase the exact amount to push back down on that pressure still getting the fuel into the combustion chamber. Well, it looks like the moment I go to build boost anything past vacuum, my AFRs begin to climb right in line with as I'm building boost. So there's something going on here. My tuner is like, "Dude, I don't want to tune anymore. We need to figure out if there's a hardware issue. Let's get a fuel pressure gauge in the car and let's monitor fuel pressure while driving." So, that's what we're here to do today, boys. We're going to get a fuel pressure gauge in. It's going to be a rough install. I just want to gauge in the car so that we can monitor fuel pressure while driving and figure out where I'm going wrong here in this setup and why I'm not able to maintain a healthy AFR of 10.5, 10.9, 11.5, 10 to 11. Nice and rich, nice and cool temperatures with all that fuel spraying in there all the way to red line. Let me show you what I got for the gauge and uh how it all looks. And this is what I got, boys. Another glow shift gauge.
About a 100 bucks. Uh this is a different style gauge than the ones I have. I have the digital readouts because uh the ones I had on the right side there were for uh oil temperature and oil pressure. So I wanted to have two uh numbers being monitored in one gauge. Kind of have to go digital for that. But I really actually like this style of gauge. I'm going to get out of here and show you in a moment. But it's got like this uh almost like a watch, like a nice curved lens on it. It's tinted so like when they're off you kind of can't see it. I really really like these. They're actually pretty nice. So, um I'm going to show you where we're going to hook up this to the fuel lines and get this installed. Yeah, this what we're going to be putting into the car.
Should be a pretty quick job. I don't really want to take a whole lot of time doing this. Uh and I'll show you the other piece we're going to use to kind of tap into the fuel line, but yeah, this is it.
Um, I've got the gauge inside. Let me show you guys. Check this out. I've done it extremely rough just for testing. I mean, I got my ground wire through the door. You guys know I don't like to do [ __ ] this way, but I needed a switch and a direct power. So, I got those into the fuse box with all the other [ __ ] And then I got it into here. So, check out how I set it up. I actually kind of like the triple the triple vibe here. It's kind of dope. But, uh, yeah, I got it in the center now. It's definitely covering, you know, the display. And this isn't going to be, uh, longterm, but then I got the actual sensor harness going through here down to the sensor itself.
All right, guys. So, we're going to crank the key a few times, push on the straighter valve, get all the air up.
Little push and rag method. Cap the shraer valve. Then, we'll go for key two. And we can first check just idle fuel pressure. So, let's get this thing bled out.
That should be enough pressure at the rail.
Cap off. Cover this bad boy.
Damn, that was a lot of air in the lines. Cap is back in. Let's get in the car and let's do Q2 and see what we get for a fuel pressure reading.
Falls right away. But it does get to 50.
It falls quick, boys.
I don't know. That doesn't necessarily mean anything bad, per se, but let's see how fast it can get to 50.
Okay, it gets up there actually pretty quick. All right, I think we're just going to check underneath the car really quick. Make sure I'm not seeing any dripping or anything from the Okay, no. All right, I think I think we can at least go for a start and check idle fuel pressure. Let's do that. Wait till it to get to 50.
Very good.
All right, we know we got good fuel pressure at idle.
I think I'm just going to drive this thing, boys.
Let's get this on the ground and go for a drive in it.
All right, let's do this.
[clears throat] That [ __ ] cable coming through.
So janky. Let me get my seat belt on real quick. Cleaned the ICV also when I did this job like really good.
And I can already feel on takeoff it just feels so much better.
So I'm holding the camera.
Don't have the GoPro right now. And all we're looking for, guys, is uh if this fuel pressure rises once we get into a little boost. So it should be like a one one rise.
Meaning if I build one psi of boost pressure, I should see one psi of fuel pressure increasing over our 50 baseline.
Pretty tricky for me to hold the camera in a good place for you guys and look and drive. But I do it for you. I do for you.
Gage look pretty sick though. Huh? Check this out.
Got white and [ __ ] What else we got?
Yellow. A little per. See what we got.
Think I don't think I was even in boost there.
Hey, I see something. Okay. Okay.
I saw 5 psi on the gauge.
All right. Let's try that again. We're going to get into some boost. Let me Let me get you guys maybe from here.
Yeah, my fuel pressure is rising, bro.
Okay. Okay. You know what that means, right, boys? You know what that means, right, boys? All we just need now is a little tune. That's it. That's what the tuner wanted. He wanted to confirm before adjusting things.
Let's check fuel pressure. Ready?
Yeah, it went up about six.
Woo!
I got bit by mosquitoes working in that garage. Holy [ __ ] Summer sucks.
Anyways, all righty, boys. So, it looks like that uh run was successful. It looks like I am building fuel pressure under boost.
So, that was always kind of an unknown during those last logs as I'm getting up into the RPM range. Is the fuel pressure increasing? Is my fuel pump operating as it should be? And it looks like, boys, we are in the clear. So, this is really good news. It's time now to send the tuner the update, show him the new information. I have a video here, boys, of us ripping it, and you can see that boost rising. So, all he has to do now is make his adjustments on the fuel tables. Spray, tell those injectors to spray more fuel as I'm getting higher into the RPM band. And uh let's catch some 10.9 11.5 AFRs that wide openen throttle and see what this thing is really capable of. So once we get that sorted, we're going to be making boost and we can start messing with that G Ready boost controller. I don't want to push this car too much on 93, maybe E85 for another for another episode in the future. So stay tuned for that. But let's uh I'm going to call it a night.
Let's reach out to the tuner and I'll catch up with you guys in a little bit.
Oh [ __ ] Awesome. [music] [music]
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