Breeding green tree pythons involves three key phases: (1) Sexing animals through body structure (males smaller with wider heads and longer tails), shed examination (females produce butterfly-shaped sheds, males produce needle-like hemipenal chamber sheds), or probing (most accurate, requires animals to be 10-12 months old); (2) Cycling animals for 4-6 weeks using light (10-12 hours), heat (dropping nighttime temperatures by a few degrees), and food (no feeding) cycles to trigger breeding response; (3) Introducing pairs in the morning, as most compatible pairs copulate within 24 hours, and stopping introductions when females stop feeding (indicating egg grab). Successful breeding requires males to be about 3 years old and females about 4 years old.
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Step by Step - Let's Breed Your Green Tree Pythons!Added:
63 videos. Okay, 63 videos over three years. We have spent a lot of time together talking about green tree pythons and we've covered a lot of topics. But you know what I was thinking about? We never really covered a blueprint, a step by step to make it nice and simple as I can to help you guys breed your green tree pythons. And that's what we're going to do in the next two videos. Actually, this video that you're seeing today was shot over the last few months. And I have a I I'm going to take you guys through the entire process. And here's the good news about breeding green tree pythons. I'm going to let you on a little trick. You ready? It's really not that difficult to breed green tree pythons. Now, let me clarify. It's not that difficult to actually get a pair and to breed that pair. The tricky part with breeding breeding green tree pythons and where the skill and the experience really comes into play is getting viable eggs, hatching those eggs, and getting those babies to feed. And that can be very problematic. But hopefully with today's video, uh, and the next two videos actually, I'm going to be able to help you with those steps to make that a lot easier. And look, it can be a little intimidating. I get it, but life's intimidating. You don't think I was intimidated the first time I went to a Taylor Swift concert. You don't think I was afraid I was going to mess up the lyrics to some of her, you know, her bridge. Or I'll never forget the first time I ran into a group of Carpondreeders at a reptile show. You know, I make fun of them in all my videos. And I was, that was intimidating for me. But I got to tell you, they were really a great group of gals and I was wrong. So, let's jump into uh this video and let's see uh if we can get you guys to breed your own green tree pythons.
Hey guys, welcome to video number 64.
And I'm excited to get into this video all about breeding green tree pythons.
And this video, as I mentioned earlier, it actually took several months to film.
Before we do that though, I just wanted to show you this animal. This is a pure manaquari green tree python produced by my friend Steven Saltzman. You guys have been really super generous to me over the years by sending me some amazing stuff, but Stephen really takes the cake. He sent me this animal as a gift.
Um, I've known Stephen and his wife Jennifer. Jennifer has Mod Exotics, which is a mother of dragons, and Steven has Cosmic Condros. Please give them a follow, both of them on Instagram. And, um, you know, I'd given some support to Stephen over the last few years. And, uh, he just gave me this amazing gift just to say thank you. And I mean, I can't tell you how generous he it was.
And um it just made me super emotional and just an incredible gift. And Stephen, I can't thank you and Jennifer enough. Um the one thing about Stephen, if you if his name sounds familiar to you, it's because he is the moderator on the Green Tree Python page on Facebook.
And he's just a guy to me who did everything right in the sense that he built this incredible collection. He built he he breeds incredible animals and he bought them all as babies. He spent a lot of money to get some of the best bloodlines out there. He raised them all up and he bred them. He didn't take any shortcuts. He didn't buy any adults and try to get into it that way.
He just did everything right. So, Stephen, thank you again. This means a lot to me. And Jen, thank you so much.
And I just wanted to show off what amazing gift Stephen sent me with this beautiful manquari green tree python baby. And while we're on the topic of uh gifts, uh my friend Ryan Presto sent me this. This is a it's like an Amazon basin emerald kind of a condro Amazon basin cross. This actually was made over in Indonesia. And I think if Ry, if I remember Ryan where he told me correctly, he's had this for like 30 years or something. He picked it up in Indo. So again, super generous, Ryan.
Thank you so much. I love it. It's it's uh prominently displayed in my basement where when people come down, they see my animals and they see this first. So thank you so much for that. And guys, you know what? If you watch my channel, you know I don't have any sponsors. I don't that I don't take any sponsors. I don't take any money from anybody. But I always have to mention my friend David Brahms from the Reptile Perch. Any type of perch you need or want, David can make for you. From the Cambro tub perches to standalone perches for carpet pythons, whatever you want to use it for to these PVC twisted perches, he makes them in various colors, too, that go into the cages. David, it does an amazing job. And what I love about David at the reptile perch, and I'll put a link down below, is that he breeds a ton of green tree pythons. So, I love having a guy who makes purchase who also breeds condos because he knows exactly what he's doing. The last thing I wanted to mention is my friend Vin Russo. If you guys remember, Vin had a tragic event happen at his home, his facility about a year ago where he lost it to a fire. Uh, in the interim, Vin has started up a um a Patreon account helping people with breeding boa constrictors. I can't think of a person on the planet who knows more about boa constrictors and breeding boa constrictors and Vin Russo. So, if you could, if you're interested in that, you want to sign up for his Patreon. It's a wealth of knowledge and I highly suggest you look into that. So, again, I'll put a link to Vin Russo's Patreon down below as well. Okay, with all that said and done, why don't we jump into breeding green tree pythons, step one to breeding green tree pythons, make sure you have a a sex pair, a male female pair of green tree pythons.
There's three primary ways to sex your green tree pythons. The first is by body structure. As the animals mature, males tend to uh stay smaller than females.
They tend to have a wider head than females and they tend to have longer tails than females. The only problem is unless you have an ex, you know, you know the sex of one of the animals and you're going to compare two, it's very difficult just to look at an animal, especially when it's younger, and determine whether it's a male or female.
In this case, this these are siblings.
These are six-year-old animals, and it's very easy to tell. This is the female, that's the male, and you can see she's a much larger animal. That's the first way to to uh sex green tree pythons. A second way is to use sheds. uh when the when the animals shed and they uh they shed out of their cloa I'll put pictures up a female tends to have what looks like almost a butterfly coming out of its cloica when it sheds and the male tends to shed it's what they call the hemipenal chambers which are long and kind of like needle-ike uh sheds that it leaves when it you know males leave when they shed. So number two would be the um the shed cycles. Again, not always the most accurate unless you really know what you're looking for. The third way to I think the most accurate way to sexual green tree pythons is to simply probe them. I know people today they they look down on probing. I've been probing animals for years. Uh do I make have I made mistakes with probing? A thousand%. But to me it's still the most accurate way. And as long as you know what you're doing and if you don't know what you're doing, have somebody who does know what they're doing probe your animal for you. The animal should be at least a year old so you don't do any damage to their tail area, right?
Because they have a prehensel tail which is very gentle, which is very delicate when they're younger. So, as long as you are qualified, you know what you're doing, you wait till the animals are at least, I would say at least 10 to 12 months old, you can safely go ahead and probe animals. And I think that's the most uh safe way and the most accurate way to sexure green tree pythons. So, number one, make sure you have a a pro an accurate pair male female pair of green tree pythons.
[music] So, we have a male female pair. Next thing we're going to do is we're going to start cycling our animals. Let's talk about ages first. Males should be, I would think, in the best in the area of about three years old. Technically, they start producing viable sperm at about 18 months old. It doesn't mean they'll be great breeders. It means they're producing viable sperm. So, I I like to hold my males back until I I don't like to breed them till they're about 3 years old. Females about four years old.
Sometimes, some types like the bio types, they grow a little bit quicker.
They get a little bit larger. You might be able to get away with three years, but in general, males should be three years old. Females should be four years old. And now we have a pair. We're going to start cycling our animals. Cycling everybody separate. They're in separate enclosures. Um, do you have to cycle in order to breed your condro? You do not have to cycle to breed your green tree pythons. My experience, I get a higher fertility rate with the eggs when I cycle the animals. So, I will always cycle my green tree pythons. What is cycling? We hear about it all the time.
There are three components of cycling.
There is light cycling, heat cycling, and food cycling. What exactly does that mean? Um, well, typically my lights are on in my enclosure for 12 hours on and 12 hours off. They come on 7:00 a.m. uh in the morning and 7:00 p.m. at night.
Okay. Again, I'm in the United States.
All times are Eastern, whatever you are in your area. 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Um so now I want to start cycling my animals. So what am I going to do? I don't fight the outdoor temperatures. I don't fight the outdoor environment. So during daylight savings time, which we have here in the States, what I will do is I will um then lo I will shut my lights off at 6:00 p.m. at night and they will come on at 8:00 a.m. in the morning. See, now I just went from the lights being on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. Now they're on for only 10 hours and they're off for 14 hours.
Heat cycling takes place at the same time. When I just shortened the daytime period of the lighting period, I'm also going to adjust my heat. What does that mean specifically? I am now going to My temperatures during the day are typically 83 to 84 degrees in the enclosures during the day. At night, they drop down to about 80°. Now, at night, I'm going to drop them just a few degrees. It only takes a few degrees to trigger a breeding response with these animals. You don't have to do any drastic drops in temperature. I'll bring my temperatures down 76 to 77° at night, the nighttime drop. And during the day, the highs in the enclosures will only hit about 80 to 81 degrees. But there's a, you know, 3 to four degree variable between, you know, the normal time of the year and during the temperature drops, right? So, or during the heat cycling. And just again, that little bit of heat is going to uh drop in temperature is going to help trigger the animals to eat. I'm also not not going to feed for about four to six weeks.
That's what I'm going to do. I'm going to light and heat cycle them for about four to six weeks. At the end of that 6 week period, what I'll do is I will start feeding the animals again heavily.
Okay? When I say heavily, I'm typically feeding them every once every 7 to 10 days as adults. I might feed them every seven days at that point. And after I feed them, I will also then start introducing the animals together.
[music] Little male Tamika cross aru. Thought you guys would enjoy seeing that. Okay, so let's talk about introducing your pairs. Now, your breeding pairs together. What do I do? I always introduce my male into my female's cage.
And when I do that, I always do it in the morning. As you guys know, these animals have a really strong feeding response at night. So, I don't want to put the male in the female's enclosure at night with the chance of her just grabbing on to him and wrapping him. I'm not saying she's going to kill the male, but she could do some damage when she grabs him. So, when I do my introductions, they're always in the morning. What am I looking for? In my experience, most compatible pairs of green tree pythons when I introduce them, they'll typically tend to lock up copulate within a 24-hour period. If I introduce them that morning of and by the following morning they're not copulating or they're on separate side of the cages. I'll typically at that point just I might leave them in for another day or two, but then I'll typical separate them for a few days, maybe even a week. I'll feed them again and then reintroduce them. If you continue to introduce those animals and they are not copulating, it's probably because your female might might not be producing follicles yet. So you could keep trying for, you know, several weeks of continue to do that. But if you don't see any populations with, I would say, within the next 6 to 8 weeks in that period, you may have just missed a cycle. You could try again a few months later, recycle those animals. A lot of times green tree pythons, they will breed different times of the year. So you could just consider that, hey, whatever. The female was probably not producing follicles. If she was, the male probably would have been all over her. So, just make that assumption and just say, "Hey, I'm going to wait a few months later before I introduce that pair again. If they are copulating and they are breeding, leave them together.
Don't bother. I leave my animals together when they're breeding as until I see them stop breeding. If I see them stop, which will usually be over a few day period, I'll separate them. I'll feed them and I'll reintroduce them. And I'd be willing to bet every time you reintroduce those animals, they're going to continue to breed. When do I stop introducing animals that are breeding? I will stop doing that when the females go off a feed. Once a female green tree python goes off a feed, I will tell you probably, I don't know, 90% of the time, it means she's grabbed, she has eggs, and at that point, I would just stop introducing them. Um, some people might say, I won't stop introducing till I see an ovulation. But in my case with green tree pythons, when I see them stop feeding, I'm going to go ahead and assume she's grabbed and I'm going to stop introducing the male.
[music] Congratulations, you've did it. You've successfully bred your green tree pythons, honey.
Congratulate everybody. My god, it's so high five. I mean, you actually, you know what? I'm more of a hugger. Let me give you a quick hug. You've been working out. I feel it. But listen, this is exciting, right? You saw your you saw your male and your female. You saw them copulate. They bred. And then your female went off of a feed. And then you saw your female ovulate, and then she had her pre-lay shed. So, what's the next thing to do? We're going to get our enclosure set up to uh hopefully get a successful clutch of eggs. There's a few modifications, a few changes we're going to make to our enclosure. We can't change certain things at this point in the process. If you're getting slugs or you're getting infertile eggs, well, there's nothing we could do about that, but there are certain things we could do about we could do some preventative things like we want to make sure that uh your your female doesn't drop her eggs in the water bowl. And what she want to make sure that she doesn't lay her eggs under a nest box. We want to make sure she uses the nest box. So, why don't we do a few things right now to our current enclosure, make those modifications to increase our chances of getting a successful clutch of eggs. Let's talk about nest boxes first, or lack of using a nest box. This is a typical looking nest box a lot of people use. They'll just make a little hole in it so the animal can go in and out and uh you know, use it when she's getting ready to lay her eggs. They'll typically start going and searching for a nest box about I'd say roughly 8 to 10 days after their post ovulation shed. Okay. So, you want to make sure your nest box is in there or whatever you decide to use. I'm going to show you what I use. So, um here's the problem with nest boxes. A lot of times they don't use them, right? And that's a problem. They don't want to use their nest box and people freak out all the time. She's not going in the nest box. Some people will actually put the animal in the nest box themselves and sometimes they'll actually lock the female in her nest box to ensure she does that. I think it adds stress. I don't think it's necessary. Um and the other thing that a lot of times they might do is lay their eggs underneath the nest box. it looks like they're going to use it and suddenly you you go in your enclosure, you see the nest box slightly lifted up and you see the female coiled underneath it with eggs.
So, what do I do? I don't use a nest box. This is what I use. I use one of these cork bark half logs. And I love it because the openings a lot bigger. Uh they'll tend to use it more readily because it's not more of a small little enclosure for them to go inside the nest box. And the other thing is they if they go under they can't go underneath it because it's all hollowed out. And then when you're checking for eggs every day, when you're when you're at the point where she's starting to use nest box and you want to see if you have eggs or not, you don't actually have to go in your enclosure, remove the nest box, put it somewhere else, and and lift the lid up on it. In this case, and I'm going to demonstrate this very shortly because I'm going to show you a female right now under her half cork bark actually laying eggs. But all you need to do is go in there and just kind of lift up the half log. And it's just awesome. And it's just changed my life as far as nest boxes. I started doing this about 12, 15 years ago. I love it. So again, I don't use nest boxes. If you use them and it's working for you, great. But this is what works for me.
Water bowls. Another thing I've seen happen to people in the past is where a grain tree python or any snake actually when they're laying eggs. They will lay their eggs right in their water bowl. As we know, there's typically two times when snakes are going to lay their eggs.
They typically tend to lay them in the uh early morning and they or they tend to lay uh lay them late at night. So what I do to prevent them from laying their eggs in their water bowl is I just remove the water bowl from the enclosure. I leave the water bowl in the enclosure during the day. So if the animal wants a drink, she can go get a drink. However, at night before I go to bed, I just take the entire water bowl out. Last thing you want to do is wake up in the morning and to see your beautiful female coiled up on a perch on a clutch of eggs sitting inside her water bowl. So again, once you've probably passed that 7-day post ovulation shed point where the female starting to move around her enclosure and look for a place to lay her eggs, probably from after that 7day point on post ovulation shed, I would just start removing the water bowl every night to eliminate any possibilities of her laying her eggs in the water bowl. Okay guys, so we eliminated problem number one, nest boxes by not using nest boxes.
We've eliminated problem number two, animals laying their eggs in the water bowl by eliminating water bowls. And this is problem number three. Um, and I've seen this one quite a bit is when a female green tree python drops her eggs from a perch. It happens. Um, and you know, just because a female drops her eggs from the perch, it doesn't mean the eggs are not fertile. It means that she's just not actually a great mom.
That's typically what it comes down to.
Um, so what could we do about her preventing from dropping her eggs from the top perch or from a high point in her cage? I only have 18inch enclosures, 18 high inch enclosures. So for me, I'll remove the first perch like that. I'll just remove the first perch like this one here and I'll still leave her on the back perch. Okay, where it's uh it's still it's not even a 24-inch high enclosure. Um so therefore I'm just minimizing the length that she could drop her eggs, right? She can only drop them from 16 in high. That's so that's important if you could do that in your own enclosures as well. Just remove your highest perch if you could do that. You also want to leave a perch near the hot spot, obviously near her heat panel. She still needs to bask in the heat. So, it's tricky, but if you're able to do it, I would say remove the highest perch in your cage as long as it does not affect her ability to bask under the heat. Okay, that's the first thing we could do to help eliminate if she does drop her eliminate any potential issues if she does drop her eggs from the top perch. The second thing we could do, and most importantly, is give it a nice put a nice bedding in your cage. I use this reptile coconut chip and I just put a a few inch layer in the bottom of my enclosures when I know my female's getting ready to lay. this way, regardless of where she lay if she doesn't use the half cork that I've mentioned before. Regardless of where she lays her eggs, she's going to lay them in the on the on the coconut chips.
And secondly, if she drops her eggs from the perch, uh it's a nice soft cush cushion. So when the eggs land, they're not landing on anything hard like the bottom of an enclosure. They have a nice soft cushion to land on. So those three steps, you know, what we're talking about is again nest boxes, females not using them. We're talking about water bowls, laying eggs in water bowls, and we're talking about females dropping eggs from the top perch. Those are the three pretty much common problems you can have with breeding green tree pythons. So, those three things I just mentioned are hopefully going to prevent any of those terrible things from happening. Okay, guys. So, I practice what I preach. It just so happens as we're filming, I have a female green tree python laying eggs. As you can see, I did remove the one perch. Typically, there'd be a perch here. Um, and there's still obviously this is the perch, so she was able to bask. And I have her half cork bark right underneath the perch. So, if she was to drop them, the eggs would theoretically land on the half uh half cork bark, and that would help cushion at least half the fall. And if it rolled off of the half cork bark, it would land on the mulch, which is like probably 2 in of mulch in here. So, it's nice and soft. And I was mentioning in order for me to check on where she is right now with laying her eggs, um, is that I don't have to take out a nest box. I don't have to remove it, take the lid out, potentially disturbing the animal, right? So, all I need to do is lift my hand in here like this, and boom. Can you see that? good on the camera, honey. So, yeah, she's got about seven or eight eggs out at this point.
She's doing her thing. I'm just going to gently leave it down, disturbing her as min me as po minimally as possible. I'm also I've been keeping the light off in this enclosure, too, while she's laying.
I suggest you guys do the same because you always have to keep in mind the time in an animal's life where she's most vulner vulnerable is when she is eating or when she's laying eggs. And I just want to minimize that stress as best as I can because the last thing I want also to happen is I don't want her to become egg bound. But I'm not saying, you know, by going in there and touching her and disturbing her, she's going to become egg bound. But I am saying you do increase your chance of that happening the more you disturb the animal. So, we're going to let her do our her thing and at some point when she's done, we're going to set up these eggs in uh in the incubator. So, uh stick with me.
Okay, guys. Since I saw you in that last segment, it's been about just over six hours I was waiting for that girl to complete laying her eggs. She was tightly coiled. I kept thinking she was done. And you know, I want to I I don't want to rush them, but at the same time, I want to get them as soon as she's done laying or anytime a female's done laying because I want to be able to um you know, take them apart before they adhere too tightly together. So anyway, if you see down here below, she just gave me 16 what looks to be uh perfect eggs. No slugs and nothing infertile. Couple of these look a little iffy. I did candle them, but I guarantee once you candle eggs, and if they don't look good, just wait a few days and reandle them. Even a week, and you'll see the veins will be much much stronger. And those eggs you once didn't feel so good about, you'll feel much better about. So, how do I set? Well, first off, when I took the when I took the eggs from any female, um, I know depending on the type of green tree python, perhaps with a BOK type, they might be a little bit more aggressive. I find with most most female green tree pythons, just simply by putting my hand on top of them and just gently removing her from the coil. And if the eggs move around a little bit, it's totally fine. As long as they're not set up for 24 hours yet, uh, you're totally fine. So, don't be too freakish about my god, if I ru if I move the eggs at all, the eggs are going to go bad.
It's not the case at all. [snorts] Um, at this point though, they've been sitting for a few hours. So, I don't want to move them or roll them at all.
So, um, yeah, I remove the eggs from her. I very gently pull them apart from each other just by rolling. Um, you still want to, you know, just pull them apart like that. You want to roll them gently and they come apart. And I stick them in one of my egg hatching trays.
So, what is an egg hatching trays? These are just I'm going to have to try to find a link where you can actually get these. I don't even know where you can get them anymore. Mine are probably I'm not exaggerating. I don't know 25 years old. So, what do I do? This is a no substrate method. I've talked about it before.
These are little plumbing PVC pieces.
This this thing is about I don't know, maybe 3 in. I put four of them in here in my little hatching tray and I fill it with about halfway up. When I say halfway up, I mean halfway up each cup with water. Don't freak out. It's okay.
It doesn't have to be perfect. I mean, if you any amount of water in there is going to maintain 100% humidity. Um, there are no holes anywhere. I get that question all the time. Do you put holes in your egg hatching egg hatching boxes?
No, there are no holes in here. Okay.
So, they just sit like that. This little lighting, this old a I don't even know what to call this. PVC lighting tray.
You can use anything you want. And by the way, there are new hatching trays out there. John Andra does those ones for the monitor lasers. I'm sure they work fine. I just been using these for years, so I stick with them. Something works, I stick with it. And then so we'll fill that with water. We put the on top. And then you just basically put the eggs in there. What is this? These are just a couple zip ties I put in here. Sometimes I'll put eggs against uh just lay eggs against them just to help to keep the eggs in place. You don't have to do that. So the eggs are in the egg hatching boxes. I will then place them in the incubator at 87.4°.
Does it fluctuate at all? Yeah, it's going to fluctuate a little bit just like it would in in nature. So it might be go as low as 86.5. It could go up to 88.5.
Um, and then I'm going to leave them like that. At at 87.4 degrees, the eggs will hatch in about 49 to 50 days. Will I maintain a steady heat the entire time? I will not. Typically, by the last 6, seven days, I will drop my temperature by about one degree. The reason you do that is because when the eggs are getting close to hatch hatching, they tend to throw off far more heat. So, to adjust for that, I lower the temperature by one degree. So, now that I showed you the egg hatching box, how I set them up, uh, why don't we take a quick look at my incubator? You know what? Before we look at my incubator, I wanted to talk about one thing. I know we talked about um the separation of eggs, I touched on it a little bit earlier. Here's what I'm going to tell you guys. If you can get to your green tree python eggs, or any python eggs for that matter, within 12 hours or less, it's typically pretty easy to uh get the eggs apart. uh we get them apart because I ideally if one egg goes bad and it's attached to another egg, it increases the chances chances greatly of a second, third, fourth egg going bad. So when we're able to do so, we love to separate the eggs. So what I'm going to tell you is if you get to your eggs 12 hours or less after laying, you can usually separate them pretty simply just by rolling the eggs uh together. Just you kind of gently roll them. You're never pulling them apart.
You're just rolling them and eventually you can get them apart like that. That's what I would suggest doing. Some people have used dental floss actually to help them separate the eggs. I've never done that. I find just by gently rolling the eggs apart from each other, you can get them apart. What I will tell you is after 12 hours, I know it's a little bit more stressful. I would just leave them together. I'm sure there's people out there who have separated them after 12 hours. Personally, once those eggs have been adhered to for 12 hours or more and they're pretty tightly together, I'm just going to leave them. I'm going to incubate them together. That's personally what I'm going to do. I'd rather take the chance of of incubating them as a as a cluster of eggs than taking the chance and possibly, you know, tearing the eggs and I was trying to separate them. So anyway, 12 hours or less, I would definitely separate the eggs. Okay, this video is long enough, so we're going to stop it right there. A lot of those clips you just watched were actually filmed in March. We're in March, of course, in March of 2026. In the next video, though, we're going to pick up with incubators and talking about modifications of incubators. I'm going to show you all those eggs. they have hatched and I'm going to talk about egg management. We're going to show you how to set up babies and and get babies feedings and all that fun stuff. So, thank you so much for sticking with me and I want to make clear on one thing.
The way I do it is not the only way.
There are many other ways to skin a cat with breeding green tree pythons. Again, I'm just showing you guys what works best for me. Uh, as always, US Arc, they do so much for us and ask so little of us. So, please continue to support US Arc. And I will have this next video out. It's pretty much shot, guys. I will have it out over the next probably 3 to four weeks. Thanks for sticking with me and I will see you soon.
>> Who gets the best YouTube channel? Me.
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