Rolex Datejust with Teething Problems!? Ref 16200 - Live Watchmaking Stream

本站添加: 2026-05-20

[00:00:00]There we go. Live chat all set. So you can ask any question live here in the chat. My name is Koslab, watchmaker from the Netherlands. You're watching live watchmaking here on YouTube every Tuesday half past 8 central European time for nine consecutive years now.

[00:00:21]Skthorp, you're the first. Hey, what's whisperer? Exit. Oh, you change your name. There you are. London. Well, UK is first.

[00:00:34]Hey, Sophia, nice to see you.

[00:00:37]Well, we have quite a modern day just do you see the dial when I play with light?

[00:00:45]And there's a defect with the date and the hand setting. Who knows what's wrong?

[00:00:53]So, who else is here?

[00:00:57]Hey Jeff, Ontario, Bavaria is an evening. Hey Mmonell, Wisconsin out of Monkey Shoulder. That's a good whiskey. Lithuania.

[00:01:13]Even the Aussies are there. Nice.

[00:01:17]Kilarn Bavaria again.

[00:01:20]Denmark. Lovely. Lovely. So nice that you're all here. Another Sophia, but now it's Sophia.

[00:01:28]Bulgaria delmon Edin.

[00:01:48]So, Mr. Coffee. Well, that's probably me on the Luthia.

[00:01:54]So Tom, so nice to see you. Oh, Eva, Ivana. Yeah, cool. Just feels like being with friends, doesn't it? Feels for me like that. Anyway, so quite a modern Rolex.

[00:02:12]And don't take it the wrong way.

[00:02:18]For me, this is one of the models that is the best copied by replicas. This is a real one, don't you worry. But I've seen some counterfeits of this particular model, and it's very hard to spot the differences.

[00:02:41]So, hey, Vim, California. Cool.

[00:02:48]So nice to see you all, Sweden.

[00:02:51]Yeah.

[00:02:53]So, what are we working on?

[00:03:01]As you all know, I don't do any work up front, so don't know what to expect.

[00:03:07]Only that this watch came in with a defect.

[00:03:17]Just the texture of the dial, the depth is well done.

[00:03:27]Hey, maybe you've spotted that as well.

[00:03:35]Interesting on the hands.

[00:03:45]There the droplets on a very specific place and there as well.

[00:03:55]I cannot change the hands at the moment because of the defect. But do you see the droplets maybe even?

[00:04:06]Well, we'll take it out of the case. See if we can if it's still runny or not.

[00:04:16]There.

[00:04:18]If I play with a light, this is probably the best.

[00:04:26]Not good, not bad, but at least interesting.

[00:04:38]there.

[00:04:41]The numbers there.

[00:04:54]I love the almost metallic finish in the dial.

[00:05:11]I'm not sure if it's been surfaced before, but not even.

[00:05:18]You see, it's underneath the number nine.

[00:05:25]I love details like that.

[00:05:29]It is a fiber, not a hair. But do you see it's underneath the Yeah, definitely.

[00:05:44]Cool.

[00:05:48]There.

[00:05:56]It's underneath the ornament is during production.

[00:06:09]Well, let's open it and see what we can see.

[00:06:14]Hey, there.

[00:06:21]I just made a quote of a watch. It was so dirty and horrible.

[00:06:26]That's all the stuff here.

[00:06:29]Let's open it. See what we can find.

[00:06:33]The journey begins. Todd, no two watches are the same ever.

[00:06:44]Do we need to polish it?

[00:06:49]Uh, yeah.

[00:06:54]have to check with the client if it's need to be polished. But there are some marks.

[00:07:05]This scratch is easily polished out. That one will always be visible. I'm not going to remove that much material. So, it's perfectly flat.

[00:07:18]No chance.

[00:07:23]And I think I mentioned it before, but the Rolex customers clients here in the workshop, they are always it's exactly 50/50.

[00:07:36]One half says, "Well, this is my watch.

[00:07:39]These are mine scratch, my scratches, so leave them. Just the inside has to be perfect." Well, we can do that. And the other 50% says, "Well, the inside is going to be perfect. The outside I want to have perfect." And we can do that as well.

[00:07:57]Just personal preference.

[00:08:00]It's the REF 16200 because I really don't know those numbers.

[00:08:19]No watch maker marks.

[00:08:29]There we are.

[00:08:36]First impression is very good.

[00:08:43]There some debris fiber there.

[00:08:53]just with it.

[00:09:01]Always wanted to invest in those um well puffers on the our uh compressor, but never. Well, we just work like this and no problem with that whatsoever.

[00:09:25]Just looking for that tiny details and some telltale signs here. A small droplet on the screw use of Peter's peoot. So does not make any script.

[00:09:45]Yeah, it wasn't runny anymore. So it's older.

[00:09:51]It seems like some discoloration on the winding stem there, but could well be some um loctite.

[00:10:03]And it should be a bit of Loctite over there.

[00:10:08]There. Some debris.

[00:10:16]there here during tightening.

[00:10:26]Well, no biggie. And again, we're looking under a microscope. So, the lovely, lovely, lovely freerung balance wheel. No timing pins, just the length of the balance spring and the weight.

[00:10:45]for the fine tuning.

[00:10:53]Not sure if it's it's not rusty, but just shouldn't be in there.

[00:11:04]We are going to do a full and revision Yeah, that's not Okay.

[00:11:42]There.

[00:11:48]Same here.

[00:11:51]Nothing dramatic, but just in need of a good clean.

[00:11:59]Here's the best uh example I can give.

[00:12:04]always find it fascinating that the teeth of the wretched wheel look like this because they're not lubricated.

[00:12:18]They're not touching a lubricated part.

[00:12:25]Always interesting.

[00:12:28]So, first impression, really not too bad there.

[00:12:45]Oops.

[00:12:49]There we go.

[00:12:55]I find these so helpful.

[00:13:01]They are uh wooden coffee stirs.

[00:13:05]Just a coffee uh and for scraping and leverage. It's just a lovely little tool.

[00:13:15]Hey, Fashion. Hi there.

[00:13:18]a b basic surface so far, but underneath the dial will definitely find a defect.

[00:13:28]Yeah.

[00:13:31]Uh let me see. The intermediate crown wheel should be upgraded to a modern part. That's the old version. Very interesting.

[00:13:47]See gently Uh, just a bit of peckwood.

[00:14:22]Just cut it into shape so I can get underneath. Wiggle about a bit without leaving any marks.

[00:14:33]This is a surface especially that one and that one.

[00:14:46]But even here all lubrication. Do you see that? Even the grainy and might even be uh moisture.

[00:15:10]I will definitely see some more uh we remove the automatic winding module.

[00:15:22]So, Just a module.

[00:15:45]Another Rolex. Yeah.

[00:15:48]Uh not to flex or anything, but we have to finish these watches. So, yeah.

[00:15:59]And I always try to alternate between old and more modern or um some high-end or a Rolex.

[00:16:19]Yeah.

[00:16:22]I try to uh Yeah.

[00:16:28]Never do the same too much.

[00:16:32]Yeah. There.

[00:16:42]There.

[00:16:49]No.

[00:16:51]lubrication properties.

[00:16:55]But look at that. The amount of rubies that is just nice.

[00:17:04]Here underneath you see the debris when I hold it in focus like that.

[00:17:13]It's just everywhere.

[00:17:18]A mechanical watch just needs maintenance. That's all.

[00:17:25]I'm getting more and more and more the moisture vibe. What do you think?

[00:17:37]It's not outright rust yet, but try to get it in focus. here definitely needs some attention.

[00:17:58]Well, automatic winding module removed.

[00:18:02]Next step, the fivedigit Rodex models. Yeah, sure.

[00:18:08]Yeah. Usually replace the axles on every surface for the rotor. Yeah.

[00:18:14]Yeah. And that is wise because they are first to go and I still cannot um looking for words.

[00:18:30]Um, that is an wear that shouldn't be in a Rolex anymore after so many decades of hardly any change in design.

[00:18:48]Just my thought here.

[00:19:00]Look at that.

[00:19:06]So there and all this the graininess and uh lack of lubrication and grease and buildup is still no reason for the defect of the winding and the handsetting.

[00:19:33]Amazing.

[00:19:41]Thank you, Gio. Nice.

[00:19:48]And here, do I need to say more?

[00:19:57]Designers having fun.

[00:20:01]And no watch. No Rolex manager even seen a movement from the inside.

[00:20:11]There is no need for this shape. There is no need for this shape. Just designers having fun.

[00:20:39]So, no more power on the main spring here.

[00:20:44]Disengaged there and here. disengaged.

[00:21:14]Well, at this test, hardly any play from the arbor in the bridge. But just look at that. So incredibly dry there.

[00:21:40]Yeah, you really don't have to wait be a watch maker.

[00:21:50]No lubrication whatsoever.

[00:22:04]Um, for next week it's going to be a different stream um on our on the forum, the Chronoglite forum. You can find it via via the website. Uh, we've collected uh your questions.

[00:22:24]So, next week on Tuesday live, we I'm going to uh answer all your questions to make things a bit murky.

[00:22:40]Probably th Tuesday. Hey, Thursday. Uh we're going to uh drop a video where I'm answering Google questions. So there's no live video but just a video and um turn our Meister editor uh typed in does a watch and whatever Google says I'm going to answer that those questions. But next Tuesday, it's a a 60K uh subscriber party and then I'm going to answer all your questions via the that that came in via our forum.

[00:23:26]Uh no more power on the main spring. I just removed the ratchet wheel. And even here, and that is just what is it not even half an hour ago because we're talking a lot. It's getting it's going very slow.

[00:24:01]I removed the case back and everything looked beautiful and nice and we just saw a small fiber but that's about it.

[00:24:14]If you use just a loop you would say mint condition.

[00:24:22]Even at first glance you say, "Wow, do we need an uh full revision of the u of the movement and when you go deeper and deeper and deeper and you see this when you wear this watch, okay, there's a defect, but six months, eight months, there is no lubrication.

[00:24:48]all the parts will eat itself and you have to replace so many more parts.

[00:24:56]Just look at this.

[00:24:58]I really honestly didn't expect to encounter this after my first impression when I just take off the case back. It's incredible.

[00:25:12]Is it dust? No. Um Gio jock jock is that uh dust from the hands of the luminous paste? No, it isn't. Uh categorically, no. Uh this is just dried up lubrication, but it is really really really dusty.

[00:25:36]So there is might be something else going on.

[00:25:41]And my first impression at least is uh moisture.

[00:25:52]Well, while we're at it, a small test.

[00:25:59]No side shake, but no end shake. So, the the dust is there's a buildup. When we clean this, there will be far more movement in the in the arbor.

[00:26:12]Oh, then we do here.

[00:26:47]That is just um loctite.

[00:26:53]The green stuff here.

[00:27:05]And there's some buildup wrist cheese.

[00:27:13]Well, almost ready to remove from the case. Need the case screws.

[00:27:25]Screw down to release.

[00:27:36]So, and as you can see, it is underneath this ridge there and this ridge there.

[00:27:53]But here there's a cutout.

[00:27:57]So, if we rem if we move Just rotate.

[00:28:06]There it is released. And because of the cutout, this one is released as well.

[00:28:12]There's a ridge. And now it's released.

[00:28:18]So there. No stress.

[00:28:29]what we saw on the hands.

[00:28:36]Oh, and the fiber on the number nine.

[00:28:42]First things first, intrigued by this there.

[00:28:53]Uh here got some silicone.

[00:29:06]It's used, but we're going to clean anyway. Is it horrible or not? No.

[00:29:13]Yeah, it's moisture.

[00:29:32]Yeah.

[00:29:44]Let's see with some Completely fresh rodico just to see how it reacts.

[00:30:21]It does come off.

[00:30:29]I'll have to clean it.

[00:30:31]Interesting.

[00:30:35]Strange location though.

[00:30:45]Don't you love Does Don't Don't you just love these silicone Uh yeah, swap sticks I think they call it. And here they come with some sticky paper and just roll them there.

[00:31:13]And here then they clean again.

[00:31:40]It's perfect for um uh rodico residue as well and picking up u tiny dust specks during casing. That is what we use it for best and most well.

[00:32:04]Do we have to explain this? Don't think so.

[00:32:12]There we go.

[00:32:28]Bit more leverage. So now I use these a bit more curve and there's plenty of space underneath there. Not actually touching the hands, not touching the dial.

[00:32:53]There we are.

[00:32:57]No need to grab the hands. Just do it like that.

[00:33:06]Well, it's completely centered there. Perfect.

[00:33:13]That's a first thing to check because sometimes it's just like this and runs like crap.

[00:33:23]Uh the fiber on the It was the nine, right?

[00:33:37]Yeah. I thought it was a nine. Now it's gone.

[00:33:52]No, it isn't.

[00:34:02]There it is. Very hot to spot because it's the exact uh color as the dial, but it is there and it is underneath the number nine. So during production I just love that is well skip last remark there.

[00:34:34]There it is.

[00:34:44]That's the one there.

[00:34:56]I wanted to say I just love that it's being produced by by humans, by people.

[00:35:07]That's probably not the best thing to say about this move.

[00:35:28]Zoom is there.

[00:35:53]There we are.

[00:35:57]Yeah. Piece of pe wood to get underneath there's a lovely cutout there.

[00:36:11]And then underneath the date ring, hopefully we'll see the defect of the hand setting and the date. There we go.

[00:36:31]Yeah.

[00:36:38]Carbon tip tweezers.

[00:36:54]No numbers but the print now.

[00:37:06]What do we see? Yeah, def definitely moisture for sure.

[00:37:14]Just first glance. Look at this.

[00:37:19]No doubt there. That is moisture.

[00:37:27]the staining uh the the residue.

[00:37:31]Not that there's that is uh wet or something like that, but this is the residue here.

[00:37:42]Moisture.

[00:37:52]There we go.

[00:37:56]But still there is a defect and we do have to find out why after the coffee.

[00:38:12]So cheers everybody.

[00:38:20]Did I miss any questions in the chat?

[00:38:28]Uh, okay. Below the 10 there is a spot on the dial. Missed that.

[00:38:43]Oh yeah.

[00:38:45]Wow. Well spotted. No pun intended.

[00:38:59]You say that the number 10 there's a spot.

[00:39:04]Yeah, there it is.

[00:39:08]No, it's uh So that question answered coffee elder.

[00:39:28]So a halffer half sense uh not like during the manufacturing process.

[00:39:43]Let me see.

[00:39:46]Oh, the dead under the 10. It became an issue. Sorry, I missed it.

[00:39:54]H ah yeah on a personal level I sold my Rover P5 after yeah 26 years uh the the restoration's just too costly.

[00:40:18]need some space because I um fell in love with a Triumph Doomite Sprint from 73 I think it is. So yeah, sold my Rover P5B saloon.

[00:40:38]Yeah, I uh was my I gave it myself birthday present when I was 30 in 2002.

[00:40:50]Yeah.

[00:40:52]Oh well.

[00:40:59]Oh, Swamp Fox, thank you so much.

[00:41:04]Oh, that is so nice. You ordered the book. really hope you enjoy it. Yeah, the rover's gone. Yeah. Yeah.

[00:41:16]Oh, well, I really enjoyed especially the engine and the the shape, the the design. It's just beautiful. But Oh, that hit the spot. Rally coffee or vodka?

[00:41:36]Rally.

[00:41:38]Rally and coffee.

[00:41:41]Oh.

[00:42:02]Uh, does a Rolex or other manufacturers mind doing you doing this?

[00:42:09]Uh, probably because they mind anything anybody does.

[00:42:19]But then again they cannot choosing words being political they cannot handle all the repairs themselves.

[00:42:36]No chance.

[00:42:39]It's in the book. It's in the book.

[00:42:41]Watchmaking explained. But they produce over a million. I think a million and a half pieces every year.

[00:42:52]Every year. And because they are gold tier in marketing, everything is sold.

[00:43:04]Well, fair play to them.

[00:43:08]That means two and a half,000 items. So, watches are entering the market every single day.

[00:43:22]Two and a half thousand within every five, six, seven years.

[00:43:31]They need maintenance per definition every mechanical watch.

[00:43:41]Not many people throw away an Rolex that is five years old from well next one.

[00:43:50]So they need maintenance.

[00:43:52]That means 2 and a half,000 watches every day have to be maint maintained within a few years.

[00:44:05]Those are all the new watches. Rolex produces these amounts for quite some time.

[00:44:14]And an Rolex from the 90s or the naughties or 2010 or even 2020 aren't cheap watches, aren't uh a throwaway item.

[00:44:31]So, not just two and a half watches a day are entering the market every single day. All the old mechanical Rolexes have to be maintained or repaired if there's damage or whatever for restoration or repair. Not revision. Repair. Revision is just maintenance. Taking it apart, put it back together. Oil, oil, oil, oil. Poof. Next.

[00:45:08]For repair, taking it apart, put it back together again, and it still doesn't work. You need experience.

[00:45:17]For restoration, parts are missing, parts are broken, parts have to be made.

[00:45:23]Even Rolex doesn't maintain the the bubble backs anymore. the 1950s uh late 50s Rolexes, they just don't do that service anymore. Who the hell is going to do all that work?

[00:45:41]We desperately need watch makers, especially experienced ones. So, please start today so you got some experience within the next years.

[00:45:54]That is only Rolex.

[00:45:57]You probably know better than me more quality brands uh with mechanical movements. Omega uh Line Blan whatever you can think of Feron Pek. And then of course there is the luxury tier fir and oh the marke and definitely pekk they need maintenance as well. The amounts are staggering the amount of work especially after sales. You've got three uh five, six, seven, eight years before the next maintenance. Eight maybe not. Five, six, maybe seven years after the m the first maintenance. So the sales are skyhigh at the moment.

[00:46:54]Everything that is produced is being sold.

[00:46:59]Within five, six, seven years they need maintenance. So the maintenance tsunami which it is is always lagging the sales.

[00:47:12]The amount of work for skilled watch maker is astronomic.

[00:47:19]So to answer your question to cut a short story long probably Rolex doesn't like independent watch makers repairing their watches.

[00:47:33]That's just my view. I'm just uh yeah, maybe they like it, maybe not. But then again, they themselves cannot cope with the insane amount of repair that is daily needed. And I'm quite passionate about that. And please feel free to disagree at any moment, but I am not that wrong.

[00:48:09]So yeah, that's my answer there.

[00:48:23]The amount of work is staggering for uh watch repair.

[00:48:55]And very important and that's why we are um working on the Kronoglide Academy. We are going to do an official we are officially watchmaking school since January.

[00:49:10]Uh got all the certificates now from the Dutch government.

[00:49:17]Um what we are going to do, what we're working on, not we wanted to move quicker, but we need repair to um pay the bills.

[00:49:36]And so we are thinking about an uh small cash insert so we can uh I can get some time off. I think I need three months. Three more months.

[00:49:53]Um well, why not? Yeah, I'm answering your question. I'm going I'm going to continue.

[00:50:01]Um what we're going to do, it's no secret.

[00:50:07]Um traditional watchmaker school, especially here in Western Europe, is usually four years traditionally, three years in school, one year apprenticeship.

[00:50:23]Then you get theory, practical work and practicing during your three years at school. I did a Dutch watchmaking school here in Skonhova. I did it in three years and then I went for training at Worstep for chronometry. I didn't do the full WTEP u education but just chronometry. And then I went to a lovely time at Henrik Corpala the KHWCC in Loka. Did some two tours there and we're going to return again.

[00:51:04]And I had a lot of conversations with uh more teachers about in watchmaking.

[00:51:13]What we're going to do is and all the software and everything is already in place. We've done a huge amount of work besides repairing the watches. Here we are going to uh deconstruct usually three years at school. So you have to go to school and um and then a year apprenticeship.

[00:51:35]But I firmly believe that the new generation of watch makers are not 16 17 year old. They can be of course but not the bulk of the new generation of watch makers. People who are between 30 and 45.

[00:51:59]Um I think there is the bulk of the new generation of watch makers. So age got nothing to do with it. I think I wasn't able to do watchmaking when I was 20 because my thoughts exploded at the time. still do. That's why we usually uh listen to blues because keeps your uh your thoughts focused. What we're going to do, we're going to do watchmaking training online.

[00:52:33]So all theory you can do online in modules and pretty tough tests but it's all doable from your home so you don't have to go to school for years. Then you come over probably to the Netherlands or we go on on site uh anywhere in whatever country you can name of we can do uh practical training in modules. So one week this, one week that, one week that intense training and we do a practical exam at the end of the week or two weeks.

[00:53:22]So you only need to be one week or two weeks at one place or we can come to a special part in the world.

[00:53:30]After that it is practicing again and you can do that at home.

[00:53:37]And after that we need exams one when you're finished with your theory practical and you're practicing at home.

[00:53:46]So the four years of watchmaking because you cannot learn watchmaking without the practical um support teaching bit more this bit more that you're sitting like this you're breathing just sit like this so many things can go wrong so you need practical support but if you do training like this, you only need two weeks every once in a while. Uh then an exam once.

[00:54:26]So it's a deconstruct of the four years education and you can do it all from home in your own time.

[00:54:36]And then we can think, oh laser, thank you so much, Ultimate Espresso.

[00:54:42]Ah that is a member membership on the uh our YouTube channel makes this all possible is paying for for this for my time. Um I firmly believe that is the new way of teaching and we do Zoom meetings and you get personal um support of course but from home and you don't have to invest years on when you got a family when you got a job and when you got got a dream of being a watch maker there is no way you can invest that much time, energy and money in education. So I think that is the way to go. I need three more months to have everything finished. All the modules are still there and I've got input from eight different uh watchmaking schools. some old ones, but they I'm still impressed by uh uh Chicago and Bova. Uh those schools, they had it pretty tied down.

[00:56:02]So, um you need to start from module one. Not really. Uh Keion.

[00:56:11]Yeah, Killian.

[00:56:13]If you want to be become a watch maker, a fully certified watch maker, which is really hard, you need the the whole course and training.

[00:56:29]If you don't care about the certificates at the end, you can just do modules.

[00:56:37]So, we're still designing that, but uh yeah.

[00:56:43]Oh, your stool school school is closed down. Sorry to hear that.

[00:56:49]So yeah.

[00:56:53]Um I Oh yeah, Manda. Hi there. The bubble back. These are horrible to repair. Definitely. You're so right. Um I have to um Oh, see there's an advertisement. We already do training here um in the workshop here in Kmer oneweek courses and if you have a look at our website chronog.nl Now you can see uh watchmaker lathe the chronograph course which is going to be very nice uh polishing course is there so we already do some uh courses but the real education well I'm working on that but we need um to pay the bills so that is watchmaking and writing in the middle of the night. So, oh yes, in Belgium that's a look signal.

[00:58:09]Uh there's a remark sorry in the chat that watchmaking school is closed in um Belgium.

[00:58:23]So what kind of diploma do you get at the end? In my country they don't don't accept BHI. Oh wow.

[00:58:34]Um, technic in lo in nama. Oh, sorry. Sorry.

[00:58:45]Bit distracted by the the chat. Um, the level.

[00:58:58]Well, why not? I I spent so much time on it now explaining the bottom level is for connoisseurs just watch lovers who need who wants to be know a bit more about watches and we are going to make modu modules at the moment and that is just nice to know but hopefully uh more people interested in those modules and try to make money then the education itself self. So that is just training and nice to know information.

[00:59:36]Then we have the middle bit which is the complete training to watch maker.

[00:59:44]But then when you're a watch maker, we have three specializations.

[00:59:53]So watch maker, you know the basics. You know how to repair a watch and you can do it. Um but then if you want to become a professional there are different rules um in speed in way of working. Then we have so watchmaker certificate but then we have after sales and we are talking to different companies uh here in the Netherlands and outside and that is just the industrial side of watchmaking like Rolex or Brightling or Omega or whatever it's just puff puff puff a a more modern movement ments.

[01:00:41]No scratches whatsoever. No marks.

[01:00:44]Oiling.

[01:00:46]Perfect amount on the perfect place.

[01:00:48]Puff, puff, puff, puff. That is after sales working in a team, modern movements and speed.

[01:00:58]Then we have restoration and that is older movements, making your own parts, cutting wheels, balance stuff. uh the uh watchmaker lathe stuff like that that is um restoration because in after sales when you say I'm a watch maker and I can make my own balance staff on a lathe they say who cares so what there's a drawer you pull it open there are 1,500 balance staffs and we're not going to replace balance stars anyway because we get the whole unit.

[01:01:43]Who cares? You can play with a lathe.

[01:01:46]Completely different beast if you are an after sales watch maker or an more artisal restoration watch maker. And then um because there's so much need for that as well, there is polishing course and finishing course. not just polishing but finishing parts as well and especially with um our connection with holding watches here in the Netherlands the 3D printed watches if you're interested if you do 3D printed holding in Delft here in the Netherlands is the first thing you see probably they are screaming for people who can finish watch parts on a professional level. So that is the first the third specialization uh which got nothing to do with watchmaking but it's another part. So that is sorry very long but I'm quite passionate about it because I'm in the middle of writing and thinking of improving the existing uh educations several at least eight now and take it to the 20 the 21st century.

[01:03:09]So um yeah that's what we're working on. huge project and but it is a bit frustrating that during the day I need to repair as well to pay the bills but then again we're a watch maker we're watch makers so we have to repair watches as well but it's a bit busy at the moment but yeah hugely ambitious and to make the education to give it some value really not that easy doable but you yeah it's it's a profession and you definitely need to work on that as well elder so here you see some debris sorry about the long monologue blog, but uh I'm really passionate about that.

[01:04:18]And of course, there's the BHI, which is excellent, and unworth are so many, not many, but there are some excellent places where you can learn the craft.

[01:04:34]And yeah, and it is not an uh replacement of the other um institutes.

[01:04:50]It's just an addition.

[01:04:56]And why?

[01:05:05]Hey, Edward.

[01:05:11]13 month cool cappuccino. Thank you so much. That is you, like I say every single time, you really make all this possible there.

[01:05:32]Uh yeah, let's just um first thing first, there is the hour wheel.

[01:05:56]That is That is Oh wow.

[01:06:14]Huge amount of play.

[01:06:20]Uh case uh another question via the chat.

[01:06:28]Um, it is zone in videos.

[01:06:58]Um YouTube for the book and YouTube.

[01:07:12]Um what this angles videos I'm quite amazed about the play here in the center wheel and oh found But there I think that is a very good reason why the winding and the hand setting didn't work. But those you don't see that often these teeth breaking.

[01:08:20]I'm talking about those here that is hardened steel don't they don't break so easily.

[01:08:34]If I say here is $100, please break these teeth. You're you're not able to.

[01:08:42]Something else in the movement is taking way too much friction which make these teeth break. So, if I replace that wheel and don't do anything about the rest of the movement, those teeth will break probably within the first three months again because something else is taking too much friction.

[01:09:15]Another part will break. So, this is just a an symptom definitely not a root cause.

[01:09:42]Don't you just love the black polish on this part here?

[01:09:51]So deep.

[01:09:55]All the light is reflected. Oh, I just love that.

[01:09:59]Maybe I'm not always that positive about these brands, but this I really like.

[01:10:07]But then again, this mark for the moment.

[01:10:28]My thesis is that with this amount of play in the center wheel is going to for that wheel and that will cause this part to break.

[01:10:52]Yeah, that's my theory so far.

[01:11:03]Cannon too tight.

[01:11:07]Yeah. Yeah.

[01:11:09]Yeah.

[01:11:20]There's doorb.

[01:11:42]So now this spring is always Such a headache.

[01:12:04]There we are.

[01:12:08]There released.

[01:12:15]I don't know um about you, but I always put a tiny bit of uh Moly Coat DX here on this pivot.

[01:12:26]Not that that it does need any lubrication, but uh the Ruby will stick to it. It makes life so much easier during uh during assembly.

[01:12:42]Oh, it is sticky. There we are.

[01:12:46]Make sure that is safe there.

[01:13:00]So, oops.

[01:13:30]So there we are.

[01:13:46]I'm still amazed by uh by your comment, Ivana, that uh the BHI isn't accepted in uh Slovakia, right? Where where you from?

[01:14:10]So those teeth are broken, but they have to be somewhere.

[01:14:29]when I always during streams we do it I do it now from um for nine years and really didn't miss that many occasions only during surgery and just a few holidays but we always uh went on holiday on a Wednesday morning and never on a Tuesday because of the streaming But in some strange way it really feels the interaction with you in in the chat and uh some of you I've met and some some of you of course I never met but it is a real personal interaction. I just love that.

[01:15:29]You really need some force.

[01:15:34]And why this there? And there a T is missing.

[01:15:53]Well, definitely the root cause. No, not the root cause, the symptom.

[01:16:04]This part broke because some other part is malfunctioning.

[01:16:08]That is so important.

[01:16:16]That's why just replacing the part will never work.

[01:16:22]No chance.

[01:16:33]I don't want to touch the black polish.

[01:16:36]Do it with rodico there.

[01:16:47]So the teeth are probably in between there.

[01:17:05]It looks like grease, but it is dried up oil.

[01:17:10]You never see grease in a pivot in a jewel.

[01:17:17]Front teeth out.

[01:17:22]I don't I'm not aware of any exception to that rule.

[01:17:31]No grease in a jewel ever.

[01:17:50]There.

[01:18:03]Oh, so there is the yolk.

[01:18:36]Be very careful with this one. There's Oh, hey. Oh. Oh. Oh. Oh.

[01:18:57]At least one teeth. One tooth found.

[01:19:09]So, so there's one broken part, but first the spring.

[01:19:29]So definitely not strings in the air.

[01:19:44]What about this one?

[01:19:50]This sliding pinion is in engaging Well, I think I'm going to replace that one as well.

[01:20:25]Doesn't look that sharp anymore.

[01:20:31]So then the winding pinion.

[01:20:53]need to do so much talking.

[01:21:11]And that one There we go.

[01:21:48]still find it incredible that the first impression that there was well nothing visible and just by removing the first layer you saw the well some moisture damage I think we can call it.

[01:22:21]It drops on the crown.

[01:22:24]Interesting thought. But because it's a screw down crown, I was thinking that as well. This is excellent of you to mention it. Um if it's a screw down crown if there's an impact it will be cushioned by the case or the case will get will take the hit.

[01:22:47]If the screw down crown is screwed out and then dropped then the will okay sorry about this the screw round crown will got some spring action sorry on the stem so the impact will not transfer into the movement.

[01:23:15]So interesting thought. I was thinking it as well for a moment, but it's implausible.

[01:23:22]But yeah, sticky.

[01:23:50]There oil lubrication on the pallet fork pivot.

[01:24:19]Okay.

[01:24:23]Okay.

[01:24:28]Okay.

[01:24:36]Yes, we do some perage.

[01:24:41]But if we don't feel like it, we just stop.

[01:24:47]They didn't finish the second round here.

[01:24:53]Oh, this is just like bananar.

[01:24:57]Yeah, that'll do.

[01:25:00]It'll be grand. Here they completely missed it.

[01:25:10]Oh well. Okay.

[01:25:26]Yeah.

[01:25:28]I'll refrain from any com comments.

[01:25:33]Just to be nice.

[01:26:11]There we go.

[01:26:22]Yeah.

[01:26:26]Definitely have to clean it with peckwood as well.

[01:26:31]Wow.

[01:26:53]It's very old, dried up.

[01:27:00]Um, vital times.

[01:27:07]I'm just see a flickering on the screen.

[01:27:09]I really can't really read your question.

[01:27:15]I'm just entering a tunnel.

[01:27:28]H.

[01:27:32]Yes, it is.

[01:27:50]I really try to be nice.

[01:28:15]so many answers I can give.

[01:28:22]Oh well.

[01:28:34]At least we know here that of course there is freedom of speech, but no refrain from consequences and And I don't mind the consequences, but people are really enjoying their time piece, their watch, and rightly so, which a huge emotional value and really really means something to our clients.

[01:29:27]That's why I'm hesitant to answer your question, although I already did, but um there's no need to be too honest to There is a need to be honest, but there's no need to be uh Not hurtful, but yeah.

[01:30:02]Leave the fairy tale as it is, their fairy tale.

[01:30:14]Um, never thought I had so much uh difficulty of resistance uh answering those questions. But for quite a few brands which think they are luxury brands but they're definitely not.

[01:30:47]um you are buying the marketing fairy tale which is excellent which is perfect.

[01:31:00]Please do.

[01:31:02]Um, yeah.

[01:31:10]And I want to leave that perception in place for people who really value emotionally value their watch.

[01:31:27]If you want to if um if you go to a Michelin star restaurant and you have a lovely well chicken meal whatever I'm not sure if they serve chicken still in Michelin uh star restaurants but you can refer it to it's just a dead animal maybe well prepared but till um you're going there on a special occasion and you want to have a special evening and you spend a lot of money so you don't want to that um your perception to be changed that's why I'm quite hesitant for that those questions it's respect Yeah, it's more respect to people who love their watches than fear or anything else of what other people think of my view.

[01:32:52]Yeah, perfect. When you think you can expect a broken tooth.

[01:33:06]There it is.

[01:33:09]There it is.

[01:33:18]So, I think the it's so visible and there as well. That'll do.

[01:33:35]Bad lash.

[01:33:38]Who will see?

[01:33:42]Um, I think the root cause is was the play in the center wheel that went like this and that caused way too much friction.

[01:33:58]Maybe due to a tight cannon pinion, but definitely degradation of lubrication due to the moisture.

[01:34:10]Definitely there. There was moisture in there.

[01:34:15]Wow.

[01:34:17]See if I can find Doesn't need There we are. What a lovely stream.

[01:34:47]Sorry it took quite a bit of time. Hour and a half.

[01:34:54]Just uh disassembly of a of a watch.

[01:35:01]Usually it's well way under half an hour, 20 minutes.

[01:35:08]Yeah.

[01:35:11]And there's no rush because not leaving marks and scratches or anything is way superior over um how fast you can do a a restoration or a repair.

[01:35:29]Sorry it took a bit longer, but there were some uh topics I'm very passionate about. Uh please have a look at our website kronoglite.nl uh for our book watchmaking explained and the courses we have later later this year uh quite special courses you won't find them easily uh anywhere else and we quite quite proud of that. Um coming Thursday probably we drop a video where I explain or uh answer questions from Google and next week from the guys from the forum again. Thank you so much guys. Uh I'm going to answer the question that came in of the Chronoglide forum and you can uh find that on our website as well on the community.

[01:36:24]So, all of you, thank you so much for your attention and the fun and the excellent questions. It's so enjoyable to do these streams, even though I'm repairing watches all