This video demonstrates the fabrication of a custom tubular subframe for a BMW i8 B58 engine swap, where the team uses a jig with Dragon tube bender to create precise bends (20° and 40.6°) for the front subframe, then welds and modifies the carbon fiber tub to accommodate the new powertrain while maintaining proper ground clearance and suspension geometry.
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BMW i8 B58 Swap Project Episode 4!! Custom Subframe!Added:
What's up, guys? This is the start of episode four of the i8 swap project. We are on the way over to Andrew's shop right now because we are starting the jig for our front subframes. I just ran over to the part store and got some bolts that he's going to use to bolt the jig together and then we're going to start machining the parts for the mount tabs on the i8. So, these are the reference points for getting the bolt locations on the jig.
Got one offc centered bolt compared to the others.
>> We took some measurements earlier and now we enter them into the computer to build our jig.
>> What are the circles that it's plotting on the Is that where the holes are?
>> Those are pick points. Those are >> right now it's the top of my spacers I made.
>> Okay.
Yeah. So, this is the what the basically the jig for the fixture point.
>> So, this would be the dragon cutting the pipe to meet up to the mount that he made.
>> So, this is going to be like one straight pipe and it's going to cut each piece out of it and then we'll bend it.
>> It cuts the the where they come together.
>> And then it prints on there.
>> Yep.
>> It'll print naming what the part is so we know.
>> That's that's a bend.
>> What we're grabbing and bending.
Should I give you a hand instead of filming?
So, the way that this prints the labeling on it is a Sharpie, and this moves and writes just in lettering on there, kind of like a 3D printer, but for Sharpie ink.
Part number That's going to mark the next one and repeat that multiple times until we have all the parts to make our jig.
This one is the i8 front frame.
And these are all going to get welded up to make that part that we were looking at on the screen here, which is going to essentially be the bottom of the i8's chassis. And that'll be our mount point for the i8 subframe to weld onto the jig.
Here's the front part of the jig. Now we got to bend the part that goes to here. So these back tubes are bent and the dragon put the marks on them where to bend them. It has the degrees the angle is where we it'll ultimately end up but the spring angle is where we bend it to and then it comes to that 30° It's ready to go.
For the accuracy of the bends, um, a lot of times it'll try to pull itself through backwards. So, I, uh, put it in there as tight as I can, but the dragon marks right here line up with the the indicator and the side of the die, the rotation, so the bends and everything are correct.
Heat.
Heat.
Woo! Had the iPhone taking time lapse again of that whole welding process.
It didn't save.
So, all that's lost again. This is the stupidest product. I don't know why anyone buys Apple.
So now we're just making these mount points essentially that the tubular sub will be welded to instead of like this flat plate is. We have to make these got dowel pins for the front too because the i8 sub had those. This is technically the i8's carbon tub just as a jig. So, this one the dial goes into. And then the tub itself has these points on the car that our subframe will go onto.
So, this is going to be the Dow we talked about that's on the front of the front subframe. This will align the whole piece into the car.
We've got the mount points for our subframe now. So, we're going to take these to the i8, bolt them on, and then just kind of see what route we're able to make our arms for the subframe off of these points, and then add this one once we know where the axle is going to land relative to this middle one. because if you saw on the last video, the axle was pretty close to this center subframe mount point. So, we're going to see how that's going to land. That way, we can figure out what we're going to do in this area for clearance. All right, we're back now about to put the engine and trans back in the bell housing area or into the trans tunnel area again because we got the notch cut. We just need to clean it up once we confirm that that's all we need to cut in that area. So, we're about to lower the car down onto the engine.
So right now we need to come up another 2 or 3 in for engine and pan and transpan clearance. But we are hitting in the tunnel on the shaft or the output yolk for the front drive shaft on the transfer case. Our options are either to notch the tub right there in the trans tunnel for that to go up higher or bring the transfer case back and put it right here. Have an intermediate shaft in between the trans and the transfer case input and then a front drive shaft going all the way up to the front diff from the transfer case from back here. And then a small drive shaft from here to the rear differential.
And I'm thinking I would prefer that versus cutting the tub again in the middle. And this would help with weight distribution as well. removing that all the way back here. So, we had to remove the intake manifold so we can finish clearancing for mockup. Torque converter is off as well, just so we can see if we're going to put it in the rear so that we don't have to chop the tub in the trans tunnel area. Few wires were broken from the accident that this car was into there. Uh, MAF or the wastegate control solenoid is cracked wiring inside there as well as the pins on this temperature sensor for the circuit. Now, we just got to place it in without the manifold. CSF is sending me a 3D file of just the rear like cylinder 6 area of their airtoair intercooler manifold that they're coming out with. Um hopefully it will clear better with the brake booster. That way we don't have to do any chopping of a manifold to get to fit. So we'll 3D print that and fit it onto this cylinder head to test fit in the car. If we are going to have to notch the tub for the transfer case, if we're keeping it on the trans itself, it's going to be about here. Here, we're going to have to cut kind of a little notch here and then back plate it in with a repair panel so that it can sit with the arm in this area. And I just want to remind everyone, we could do this whole swap with a rear wheel drive trans and be done with no cutting besides what was needed in the bell housing here. But I want an all-wheel drive i8 still. And I think the cool factor of having it be an all-wheel drive is going to be worth any cuts we can do here. But I mean, if I were to do this for someone or to do it again, I might try a rear wheel drive.
There's even a rear wheel drive transaxxle um ZF8 from I think Aston Martin is who uses it and that would probably work with the TCU control from this car too. But I want all-wheel drive. That's why we're doing it in this car. And just I think the cool factor of you know first one done all-wheel drive swap. The drive shaft itself fits nicely once it's at the right height in this little divot in the tub. We're only having to cut in this little area here for this arm of the transfer case. It's going to be hitting just about here in this area. So once we notch the tub, this can sit nicely inside kind of like that. And the drive shaft itself will go all the way up to the engine just fine.
Differential is going to be little higher than >> Dude, if that's in the center, it's not it's not much.
>> Transfer case right here.
>> Yeah, it's not horrible.
>> The input like ring gear here. Yeah, >> it'll be in the ballpark. It's not It's not crazy. Well, it looks like we're going to um continue on from the rear subframe when we build it.
>> Incorporate the divorce transfer case.
And uh it it it it's like it was meant to be really.
>> Yeah, this little notch here is perfect.
>> The notch is perfect >> for the T case here. We're >> It's crazy how much everything is like so close to lining up perfectly. The trans the trans tunnel.
>> So close to that notch.
>> We've got a notch for the transfer case here. We might have to do a little bit of a round clearance just on this for the drive shaft that's going to come back to the adapter that we make here.
And for that, we are actually going to Where is it? We have a spare output shaft from an all-wheel drive trans.
So, if we lop this off and weld it to a normal drive shaft style yolk like what's on the back of this guy, then we just need to make a bolt-on face with a bearing in there. That way, it's held in place and then we can just bolt together a drive shaft front rear. Andrew was talking about doing a center sport bearing with a slight dip in it for the front shaft so that it clears the tub all the way up. And from there, I mean, we really just need to get the parts made.
Just wild. So wild.
>> So much custom stuff. There's a reason why no one's done this yet, and we're finding all of those reasons, but we'll make it happen. Uh, we're also talking about 3D printing some TPU bushings for trans and such. We're going to have to bolt trans mounts to the back of the allhe drive trans now because >> the transfer case was the mount for the trans. We're going to have to do a custom oil pan, which I talked about, for the axles to move them back and the diff back slightly.
Lots of lots of small things that are going to take time. So, right now, we've got engine and trans at a good height where they're higher or level with the bottom of the tub, which is not the lowest point of the car. And look how close the hood is to fitting as is right now. And the only thing that it's hitting is this vent that goes down like 3 in and it's bolted on there. So, we're going to take that off real quick and see how the hood clears with the B58. It looks like we don't even need to make a custom hood. This guy is held in place by these. Those are Phillips, not Torx.
That's crazy. By Phillips.
We'll take it off. We could even just cut it flush if we really wanted to, but we'll take it off for now. This is a good height for the motor.
That fits really good in there. So, the only reason why this is up right now is because the latches for the i8 are in the rear. If I can get the camera to see it, but you push down right here to latch the hood. And the B-58 fits under the OEM hood of the i8 with lots of room, honestly.
and CSF is on top of things. Look at the notification we just got.
Please see referenced back end of our airto-air manifold. So, we'll slap this into our 3D printer and get this started on the machine overnight. That way, tomorrow it's ready for test fit.
The printer has finished our intake manifold quarter section.
Just need to clean off all the supports and then go get this test fitted on the car. So, this is used on like a lot of the fast cars at Texas 2K right now this week. And because of that, this is a two injector per cylinder or per port manifold setup. And because of that, this runner looks pretty long. So, it does have some concerns for me as far as fitment to where it might still run into that brake booster area. If it had just the one injector and then it started, you know, right here with this core like chamber area, I think we'd be fine. But, we're about to see how it's going to fit. Now that this is ready, we can go test it on the i8.
Oh, man.
Well, unfortunately, that was my concern with how long I saw these runners were.
It puts it basically in the same area that the other one was having a fitment issue. So, this might work if we modify it, but its current design will not work. Super nice of CSF to send this file over to us, though, so we can test fit that in the brake booster area. Uh, unfortunately, it did show that that is not a solution for this either. So, we are either going to have to modify this manifold if we get it from CSF or figure out something with the brake booster um to fix that clearance.
Andrew just ran over the first parts of the chromoly front subframe.
So, the front of the pan was about 2 and 1/2 in lower than the base of the car.
Of course, we are going to try to raise it up a little bit more, which means unfortunately the front part of these are going to have to be different because the axle is already super close to going up. So, we're have to do a flat plate here and raise that tubing coming to the front point. So, we need to finish our cutting on this part of the carbon, make it flat with as high as we can go, which is about another inch.
Do the same on this side. And then we will probably grind down this on the trans just to give us a little bit more clearance for heightwise. And then that is going to be as high as we're able to stuff all this.
So we'll have to deal with whatever we're left with.
Years like far enough. So, I went flush with the bottom of the metal here, which is a little bit higher than the bottom of the metal back here. And I went flush with the bottom of the metal here. That might give us the room we need. Aside from this, I cut the metal here.
So, that's angled a little bit about where that gives us something to glue to.
>> Obviously, we need to clean it up some, but we've got a lot more clearance now.
We're pretty much flush with the flat part here. And this gives us a nice point to actually glue our bracing onto as well, which is nice.
Now, we're going to push it up. Do the same thing we've been doing again and again and again.
We got about a/ an inch more of clearance from the cutting I made. Now, we just ground down on this transmission casting. This is the test one that has no internals just for mockup to see how much we clear by getting rid of all that. Now, we're about to put it back in again. So, this is about as high as we're getting the motor in the car.
We've got the sides of the subs current design in place, but we're having to move the axles back because the center point of the 340s hub compared to the center point of the i8 hub is about 4 in off. So, we need to figure out where the axles are going. That way, we know how we can route this. Cuz right now, if this axle is, you know, up here and 4 in that way, we're going to be about there. Really, what I think we should do right now, we need to figure out where realistically the hub, the axle is going to bolt in. So, what we should do, we can um pull the axle, strap the motor in to the car itself, and kind of set it down on its own weight and see where we're at with everything. Okay, >> that'll give us an idea of where really the axle needs to be.
>> And I'm going to Texas 2K to hang out with Jake and Remy. And I rented a stock i8 at 88 while I'm there. So, we're going to cheat. I'm going to measure some of the suspension components with it on the ground. That way, we know cuz right now the suspension is drooped. So, the axle right now visually looks like it should be here, but it's probably going to need to be, you know, here. So, I'm going to measure on the i8 that I rented the distance between the base of this shock.
Get out of the way. Base of the shock to the base of the strut tower. Get some measurements. That way, we know where center the axle is going to have to be when we're mounting it. And where we landed now, this is just where the engine's going to have to sit. We are about an inch and a half about an inch and a half lower than the rail on the car here, which the actual jack point is probably an inch lower. So realistically, we're about a/ in compared to the lowest point of the car with no skid plates and undertra on, which isn't horrible. The i8 stock have about 4 and 1/2 in of ground clearance.
So we'd still have 3 in of ground clearance. And the nice part is too speed bump wise and everything. We're in line with the tires where the high point is going to be. So when I go on a speed bump, it's going to raise and the like the only thing I'm going to have to worry about is rocks and stuff that would be in the middle of the car that are not lifting my suspension up with it.
>> We'll still do something with the >> and yeah, we'll make skids.
>> We're going to make skids with the subframe. That way engine isn't taken out on something low. We'll we'll kind of glide over it. And where we're landing to engine needs to go back slightly from where it is right now. We're going to be just past cylinder two with the center of the wheel. So we'll have four maybe three and a half cylinders in front of the front axle. But we're going to do the rear mounted transfer case.
Trans behind there, too. I don't think it's going to be that bad. We'll we'll weigh it after we're done and see how the weight distribution is, but I don't think it's going to be horrible. We still have all this room in front, too.
Some good news as well with us raising the engine another inch and a half.
If we add a thermal spacer to the cylinder head, it's gonna be hard for me to do one-handed. Andrew was here >> earlier helping us mock it up, but we're so close to fitting with this brake booster without any modification.
We could just dent in the bottom of this a little bit with what CSF sends us for an air to air and it'll fit. The engine rocks this way so it will pull itself away when it's revving and if we have the dent enough when it settles back down, it won't clearance with the brake booster. Then we have all this room in the front to do a nice front mount intercooler. We'll do rear mounted radiators. Well, radiator now because we're getting rid of the water in the heat exchanger. So, we'll do a rear-mounted radiator and we should be good. Here is our rental for our weekend in Dallas for Texas 2K. Going to use this to take some measurements of the suspension points when the weight of the car is down. That way we can get our height this convertible i8.
Should be a fun trip. Don't know how to get into it yet. The renter is not responding.
Well, figured out how to get in and how to get the top down. Now we got to make it to Jake and Ramy's Airbnb and see what we're doing the first night here.
>> Day one of TX2K. It is like 4:00 a.m.
back home.
Some point I need to measure the suspension of this thing. Nice part like I rented at heading into the track, drop off some parts to be tuna and then start our day.
So, I rented the i8 and we were at Texas 2K all week. Now, I flew here with a tape measure because I need to measure some suspension heights because my i8 is torn apart. So, I'm about to go drive over to I think Otuned has some race ramps they're going to borrow and I need to crawl into this thing and take some measurements. We're going to go do that right now. I need to drive this thing through the crowd from Jake's booth now in the middle of Texas 2K. This is going to be fun. This thing's so quiet no one hears it behind them. They don't move out of the way.
So Andrew with Oath is letting me use their race ramps.
So now that we are under the car while the suspension is still loaded on these ramps, get a measurement of the axle position and the shock compression up to that strut tower area from the base of the shock tower here up to the top there. It's 13 in roughly.
That'll help us figure out the alignment of our axles on the swap that we're making because we are going to have to do custom pan.
So axle through that shock is what I had to measure real quick. Uh because we're going to have to nail that with the oil pan we're doing.
But we need to measure ground clearance from roughly where the engine would be, which looks like Google was right. It is about 4 and 12 in. So, we should be fine with the car being about an inch and a half lower than the body, which would be about the base of my pointer finger right here.
>> So, it's barely going to stick down below the car at stock height.
>> That's sick.
I don't know.
Where's that Viper you like?
One day I did not like the first one.
Oh 7 94 144 MPH >> that is Going to be an end to the Texas 28 trip. Got the measurements we needed on this i8 with the stock interior. Now it's time to travel and head back to the airport. We're having a good time project. Inside this box is going to be an adapter for the transmission.
Open that up and show you guys. That is some fancy packaging for some billet pieces. That's crazy. Good job, Donnie Works. Oh, all right. Round two.
got a transfer case delete to make the all-wheel drive trans rear wheel drive, but we're going to use this to move the transfer case to the back of the i8.
So, this should just slide right on.
Oh, that's nice. That looks good. And they even include holes to make your own mounts because on the all-wheel drive trains, the uh transfer case is the transmission mount on that little bushing right there. So, this lets you use kind of a rear wheel drive train style mount, too. Super cool. This is going to make things easy.
>> Locks. We have to drop the pan. That way, we can see where we can put the axles for the all-wheel drive in relative to making a custom pan to get it to here. So, Andrew made this little brace that we are holding the engine up. That way we can actually lift the car up in the air on the lift with the engine and trans where they're going to be roughly.
Now that we have the engine and trans hanging in the i8, we are going to well I am going to the oil and pull the front differential.
That way we can start mocking up our placement of the axles because we're going to have to move the axle in the pan to about here.
That way it can go through the center of the strut. If you notice, the level sensor for the B58 is right in line with where we're going to want to put that.
So, that's going to possibly be an issue. We might have to move that some.
And we'll see what else is in the way once we get that off. I'm pretty sure oil pump and all that comes to around here on the car inside the pan. So, I am pretty sure this makes us the first people in the world to change the oil of a front engine i8.
It is technically in the car right now.
The job's done, you know.
So, we are currently in the process of actually finding out if we're going to be able to make this thing allhe drive or not. The stock location of the axles is just very bad for axle angle. So we took the pan off to see what it would take to make a either adjustment onto this pan to move the diff back or make a custom pan. Both of which would be pretty timeconuming and we don't know how long that would take and you know if it's going to be successful even doing that because there are different things like these oil drains to the return pan that would have to be moved. The level sensor would need to be swapped places.
Both of these are timeconuming and we're trying to make it to SEMA and possibly even Monterey and we don't know if it'll be able to do that. So, we do have the all-wheel drive to rear wheel drive adapter to fall back on if we have to.
Um, we're about to def back on and see just how bad the axle angle would be if it was in the stock B58 location and maybe adjust this to clear the axle to get to the hub in that area.
So, what we'd have to do for this is adjust the base of whatever shock we use to basically move this inward more towards this bar because that's what's going to hit the axle wing.
It's trying to go to the center of the hub there.
Okay. So, we are going to be installing the rearroll drive pan onto the engine for now. basically to help speed up getting the car running and driving at first just as a rear rear wheel drive setup. We're going to still put the transfer case in the rear. That way down the road we can change it up a bit to make it all-wheel drive, but there are so many obstacles to tackle into making it all-wheel drive at first that it would greatly delay the whole project.
And we'd like to get this thing to SEMA 26. So, we're going to make it rear wheel drive at first, depending on time frame. Maybe it'll be all-wheel drive in time for SEMA, but probably not. That'll be the next project for the car. So, I need to bring the engine hoist over to the spare rear wheel drive B58. That way, I can lift it up off this tire on the pallet, take the oil pan off, and we're going to use it for mockup for the current subframe.
Our idea when we make the car allhe drive is probably going to be a dry sump style setup. There's a couple offerings on the market. We're trying to figure out what pairs nicely with where we need to put the front differential.
Now I've got the rear wheel drive pan removed from the rear wheel drive spare motor.
I've got a sleeping puppy that was distracting me while I worked on it. And we've got the pan swapped over to the engine that is currently in the i8.
I mean, even visually, you can just see how much more room there is in the front without the cutouts for the diff axles going through.
I wish there was enough room to send it under this one. I mean, maybe there is.
Who knows? We'll see. But that would be pretty cool. Now, Andrew is going to go mock something up and bring it on over here.
What I'm going to do is go reverse engineer this. We're going to kind of follow the factory shape.
Um although it has to come down a little bit. Um and then sway bar might go/4 in forward. The steering is going to be about a/ an inch forward >> and down >> and down a little bit. And yeah, I think that I think it'll work well.
>> We're also finding now that we have the rear wheel drive pan on, the steering rack is right where the OEM B-58 axle went through the pan. So, no matter what, it would not have worked with the all-wheel drive pan as is, even if it did land with the center of the hub. Um, so when we go allhe drive, definitely will have to be a dry sump setup to get rid of this bump for the oil pump and sending the shaft through there.
Okay. So, we got the subframe in bente. The green stuff here, the jig we've created to hold the suspension point. This the mounting points and front suspension point. Then the bottom stuff is going to be what the subframe is going to look like, the start of it.
We'll we'll get it to this point here.
And from there, we'll start adding the brackets for the suspension. Then we'll put it up to the car and figure out where we need our motor mounts to be.
Build some brackets for those. Then we should have it in the car.
Well, that completes the cut.
Not too many parts. A couple.
The bend marks coming out of the dragon.
It's a little bit faint, but lines up right there.
Just like that. So now on the bender, we go to program mode, view, edit.
Put the angle to 20° for the first one for the first bend. Second bend was 40.6.
Enter.
I had a C clamp on it so it doesn't pull the tube through as it bends. So then we go forward.
Bend. Done. And second bend.
Move our little angle finder.
And so it was zero degrees of rotation.
Bend done. First part bent.
And this tube right here will go on the bottom.
follow the factory out to there. So, here we've got the front subframe beginnings. This is essentially the car and this will be the subframe bolting into each point here.
This is the front and the back and the back is going to get flat cut and go on to flat plate to land on where those mounts go on the chassis. So, this is basically this area right now that we're looking at.
And we've got one more spot to weld and then we can start test fitting on the car. Moment of truth.
So, this area uh right here, we're going to build some more brackets for the sway bar. The steering is going to mount like here and here.
Um the front bumper attachments will go in the front and then motor mounts be in this area.
Um then this is uh webco um 095. This the main stuff is inch and 3/40 chrome.
Um the bracing's going to be 065 to save a little bit of weight and >> sweet. should be very st. So these little intricate areas here in the front part of the subframe are this mount area on the stock subframe. So this is the bolt hole and we're looking at upside down on the jig over there. But this is that part where you see the tube going through with the bolt. That's going to be for the suspension arms. And then we got to make the mounts for the sway bar.
So now we got the jig off. You can see the shape a little easier. Front of the car. Motor in here. Oil pan's going to be in this area and all the mounts for the suspension.
We are very close to the subframe being able to be bolted onto the car. Uh currently we need to clearance this part of this little like aluminum bash bar that goes into the bumper because the front mount for the suspension point barely interferes with it. So, if we take it to about here, that way we can get the dowels into the holes on the subframe mount points. And then this part of the center bracing of the subframe is just barely interfering with the bottom of the pan right here. And we were basically his idea was to have that protect the pan. So, it's very close to it. So, we need to cut it. Once we cut it perfectly, then he'll flat plate over it to seal it to structure it back in.
But, we'll show you guys how that's looking right now. So this part of that center bracing we're going to notch in this area just to clearance it.
So this is that cut we were talking about. And then once we confirm we've cut as much as we need, it'll be capped off with flat plate.
Andrew is marking spots where we're going to cut the precision cut spots of our front bash bar.
Say, "Good shot."
>> Stay deeper.
>> The sunglasses are so funny. Huh?
>> The sunglasses are so funny.
Look at that clearance from the front looks good, too.
Oh, dude. With the bumper, it's like just barely. That's like perfect. So, the whole idea behind this is that instead of oil pane, we're going to And we can put on some threaded fittings on here and do like a skid plate if we wanted to. Nice aluminum flat plate.
Good.
So, we've got subframe in its general area.
Our mounts for the arms of the car line up. Bolt holes line up. Um, we're going to have to dial in fitment for the steering rack to fit in that area. And then um one thing we're noticing is if we look through this hole here, I don't know if this will focus.
Making this all-wheel drive will not be fun.
So definitely going to be rear wheel drive at first. We'll see if we can ever make it allhe drive in the future, but it's going to be going straight through the block where it sits right now if we were dead center at the axle line. Now the hubs, the axles could come out, go up and have angle and such. Um, but there's going to be a lot of design to make that work. So, we want to get it running first with just rear wheel drive. We will install it with a transfer case likely in the rear just to have it to where we can do it in the future.
We got to make our mounts to align it up to the bash bar in the front, too. But, it's in. Clearance is awesome.
Blocking the oil pan from getting hit by speed bumps or such. We can mount like a skid plate under here if we wanted to.
Next up, we just got to do the flat plate part back here off of the back of the subframe. And then we can start working on the rear stuff and plumbing the engine.
That is going to call it for episode four of the I8 swap project. Next episode, we're going to be finishing putting on the steering rack, getting the front subframe bolted to the engine mounts themselves, and then we will start making the rear components. Make sure to hit subscribe. We're getting closer to this project being
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