This masterclass provides a rigorous, science-based framework for hybrid formulation that bridges the gap between aesthetic coverage and dermatological efficacy. Diane Grover’s technical precision elevates the craft, offering a professional standard rarely seen in mainstream beauty content.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
Skin Firming Tinted MoisturiserAdded:
Hi, I'm Diane Grover, cosmetic chemist trainer and assessor here with the Institute of Personal Care Science.
Today, I'm going to show you how to make a skin firming tinted moisturizer. Now, let me show you just how easy it is.
Today, we are making this beautiful skin firming tinted moisturizer, which is actually a hybrid cosmetic. And we call it a hybrid cosmetic because it is a tinted moisturizer, it's your makeup, but because it has a skin firming active in it, it is also firming your skin and acting as your skin care at the same time. We'll start with the water phase, and I'm adding just a small amount of key lighting agent to improve formula stability.
I will slurry some humectant and natural gum. The humectant attracts and holds water onto the surface of the skin. I'm using propane diol because it feels lighter and less tacky than glycerin.
And the gum I've chosen today is sclerotium gum for its ability to suspend pigments.
Once you have a smooth slurry, you can add it to the water phase, and then pop it on the mixer under high shear. Now, it's important that you use high shear with sclerotium gum because it needs high shear to hydrate.
While we're waiting for the gum to hydrate, we can put together our lipid phase. I'm using a high HLB non-ionic emulsifier waxy blend. This is to create the light cream consistency in our moisturizer. I'm just popping that into some caprylic capric triglycerides.
The caprylic capric triglycerides would just help the tinted moisturizer to slide easily on the skin. And I'm also using some squalane in our formula today because of its ability to mimic the skin's natural lipid, and it has a nice silky feel on the skin.
Now, before I add the pigments to the lipid phase, I'm going to pop them in the grinder and grind them down into a fine powder to ensure homogeneous color distribution. I'm using a small input of zinc oxide for light coverage, yellow, red, and black iron oxides along with a touch of mica to give the moisturizer its color.
Once those pigments have grounded down into a fine powder, you can add them into the lipid phase, and then pop the lipid phase and the water phase both on heat and heat separately to 75°.
Once you've got both phases at 75°, you can join them together under high shear.
Now that the phases have formed a smooth glossy emulsion, I'm going to turn the mixer down, and I'm going to leave it on the mixer on low shear until it cools to below 40°, and then I'll add in my heat sensitive material.
Now that my moisturizer has cooled down, I can add my heat sensitive material.
This is the anti-aging active. This is Centella Reversa. Centella Reversa is a 100% natural active from Centella Asiatica stem cells, which are rich in plant peptides that reverse skin aging.
Centella Reversa is backed by in vivo efficacy data demonstrating anti-aging and wrinkle reducing benefits, helping to firm the skin, smooth fine lines, and enhance overall skin appearance while preventing visible signs of aging.
Now, I'm adding in an antioxidant to protect my formula and skin.
And a broad-spectrum preservative to prevent microbial contamination.
Now that my skin firming tinted moisturizer is below 25°, I can take it off the mixer and check and adjust the pH to 5.5 to 6.0.
Once you're happy with the pH, just pop it aside and leave it to reach its full viscosity.
So, when we come back, we have this beautiful lightweight tinted moisturizer that's a hybrid cosmetic cuz it's actually firming your skin at the same time.
See? And that's how easy it is to make a skin firming tinted moisturizer. If you'd like today's formula, give it a thumbs up. If you have any questions or comments, please leave them below. Don't forget to subscribe to receive notifications on videos just like this, and email us at [email protected] for more free formulas. Happy formulating.
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