Professional hair coloring on previously dyed hair requires proper pre-lightening with Igora Vario Blonde Plus (1:2 ratio with 30 volume developer), followed by global color application using Igora Royal Fashion Lights (L Double 4) with 40 volume developer, and final deposit with Seven Stroke Seven using 20 volume developer; the process demands proper foiling technique, section thickness adjustment based on desired intensity, and patience during processing to achieve bold, multi-dimensional results while managing patchy outcomes from residual dye.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
Global Highlights Grey Coverage and Deposite Process for whole Colour on Dyed Hair by Jas SirAdded:
Come on, today we are starting another new color.
You might be seeing a lot of shades here. If you look at the color properly, you will see a slight copper look here. You might also see chocolate at some places. You may also see yellow at some places. Well, the interesting thing is that the color I have done here today is on dyed hair. All our models who have dyed hair, you can see that their hair has been dyed for a long time.
After dye color, today we used Igora color of Shaskaf. Shaska Professional Igora Vario Blonde Plus Today we have used Igora's Vario Blonde Plus, the pre-lightener is from Shaska, it is from Shaska, so there is no problem and it lifts easily up to seven levels to two eight levels. Today we actually did a patch test first because when we did the counselling, we came to know that you can see our model here, I am mixing it with 30 volume, I will take 30 volume ratio, 1:2 ratio, 12, this is our fair one, this is our skin's, I am using this blender, let's come to the point that when we were counselling our client, we came to know that for the last few colours, that is around 7-8 months, he has been using those dye colours which the sachet ones and the Gadrej ones and all these consumer age people were using.
Notice one more thing here. The color mixing that you see, I am doing it very slowly. It's not the color, it's actually a blunder. The mixing of the blender has to be done very slowly.
Whenever you have pre-lightener and you are mixing it, always do it slowly. Let me tell you the most appropriate mixing method. The most appropriate mixing ratio is 30 volumes.
Don't go above 30 volume you will be in trouble. Ok? So it is safe. It also becomes strong. It is safe. It is good. So what will remain? 30 volumes. 20 volumes give you a lot of precaution. But if you do it with 30 volume, if you want more lifting then you can do it. C Our client 's skin tone is fair. Ok? And as you can see, four on the top area above you, there are grace. You also have no gray hair.
So today, what color am I going to color? I'll do the highlighting. After highlighting, I will do global.
I'll also do root touch ups with Global [Music]. There are many graves, so they also have to be covered. Plus I'm going to do the whole hair.
I will do full global highlights on full hair. What is the reason for doing it on full hair? Our client can carry light color. We have colored these before also. So she can carry very very well.
But what is happening now is that as you can see his hair, it is thick and fair in colour, so I thought we should give it a better look, so here our hair cut is done now, you must have seen the video of his hair cut, we had cut his hair 360°, I hope you must have seen the previous video, this is part two, okay I have sped it up a bit, otherwise the video would have become very long, so I sped it up a bit, so you guys understand the application. One more thing you will notice here is that the sections I am taking, I am working on the slicing pattern. The sections I have in slicing are a little thick. Has thick hair. It is thick. The pre-lightning result is about to come here. Let me tell you one more thing that the result of this pre-tanning is going to be a little patchy.
You can see how much grace is visible here. You will see a lot of grace. Especially on the top it is quite grey. We will cover everything. There are gray coverage. Doing the highlighting. Making it global. Okay, look, this color that you are seeing is from the patch test only. So here we did a patch test.
This is what we did after the patch test. So this result came first. We started only after we got the result.
Because after counselling, as soon as I came to know that our model had used dye colour, I was a little tensed as to how it would happen, but we did it and we got the result and after that let me tell you one more thing that after working with the pre-lightener of Shopscaff, Shopscaff also has two-three different pre-lighteners, if you ask then I will tell you about them, today I am using this one, as you saw, the pre- lightener I am using today is Igora Vario Blonde Plus of Shopscaff Professional.
So if you want more, I will tell you more. In the next videos I'm just going to use different bladers.
So you should see that also. Rest of the pre- lightning, again we have taken it, we have taken pre-lightning from 30 volume. The ratio of mixing is 1:2. So this is our mixing ratio.
Ok? Here I will be highlighting the entire hair and doing it with foiling.
You will have to do the placement of the foiling a little properly.
Foiling placement. If you do not get the placement of the foiling right then there is a problem. So your placement of the foiling should be proper.
If you mix it with 20 volume Bludger, we get less lifting but the hair does not get damaged as much.
Like I was talking about the scarf, right now we are using the color of the scarf.
So his hair has not been spoiled trust me.
If I had used any other company's product other than Shoscuff, trust me my hair would have been 100% dry. The way his hair is.
Right? So this also has to be taken care of.
Now if I talk about the underlying pigments of our Shaskof, what I am doing is I took out red, red orange, orange, try to reach yellow. Yellow orange was found at some places. I found yellow in some places.
So as you all know that there is still dye color inside the hair, but of course it was bound to happen that patchy results were bound to come in their hair. It didn't come as even as I was expecting.
But still it was the color of Shasco so it gave a very good result. You people have seen the result. But when I see SN Artist, I feel that it was patchy in between because at some places the lift was more and at some places it was less. You have to do proper foiling. The foil has to be folded correctly.
So proper foil folding element. Ok?
What is one then? What should your foil be like? Whatever needs to be held should be held tightly. There should be no slip.
And all the hair should be properly covered.
This is very important. Right? So if your foiling is good then the benefit of it is that you do not bleed. Meaning the color does not come out. It doesn't come on your scalp.
Right? So this is one of its benefits.
So you need to have this proper foiling [music]. You have to keep this in mind.
And try to use Shaskaf colors in your salon. The results are very good.
Look at the amount, it is a little expensive but the difference is not so much that you cannot afford it. Right? [MUSIC] So this is what you have to keep in mind. Rest I have taken a few more sections here because I want to make her hair look light. Ok? So here I did not take my sections very fine.
So I have brought it a little from fine to medium. It is not too thick either. But yes fine, a little bit towards whom? Towards the medium. Yes, if I had used more fine sections, it would have given a very precise look.
But according to his personality, I felt that I should take some six sections. I wanted a little more color in his hair.
So I did it for this also because my hair had become very dark. Earlier, when we did highlighting, our client carried it very well. So that's why today we have taken some thick sections [music]. You can also make it a little fine. If you had done it fine, the result would have been a little better, of course.
But here I have taken some thick sections.
You can see the foiling [music] as I was saying here, worked on the diagonal sections. Front to back and neat foiling. See how neat the foiling is. Now our foiling is done here.
Now I'm going to globalize from l4 to l double 4 so I'm using Igora Igora Royal Fashion Lights from Shscoff and this color I've used is Beige Extra, I've used it from 40 volume. So our developer became 40 volume and its ratio was 1:1, we took the mixing ratio and after the mixing ratio, we mixed the color well. This is what I'm going to color, this is what I'm going to do.
This is for our length as you can see. It is written here that I have taken the length application here, I have taken it with 40 volume, I wanted to lift it, as I told you, the colour I am taking here is number four, you saw the grey one, right, so the number four here, I am going to apply it first, write it down, you are seeing that I am applying it only on 1/2 inch of the roots, you will see that this is proper, it will take some effort from you, see here as you can see, here we started from the first section.
Look, now we will conduct some sessions from here. Look, we have halved this section also and here we are checking the route. Who are you doing it with? Shaskaf's number four.
We took number four from Shoskaf's 20 volumes. We had made its ratio 1:1 and you can see how we are going to go deep inside our hair and cover the grey by searching for it wherever it is. So there is a dialogue, choose one. So here also we will selectively cover the grey. Look, there was a lot of grey here. There was a lot of grey on the front.
We will cover everything from here. But on the same amount of hair that they already had. Right now L Double4 once I have this root touch up. After that I'm going to do l double4. Don't get confused while writing this.
Many people wonder what to do first? Should I apply it on the length first, then on the roots? It is dark in colour, right? So if the dark color is grey coverage then apply it on the roots first. Ok? If I were doing a light color, suppose I was doing number six or number seven, then first I would do my global of L double 4, after that I would apply it on the roots, we will work on this in the next video, we have shot another light color, I am going to show you in the next video, you will get an idea of that, a global of light color plus root touch up, the rest here because it is a darker color, so here we first worked on the roots [sangeet], after working on the roots, then now we are doing it, after doing it on the roots, we will do L double 4 on the length, our back color is okay, it is a light color, L double 4 also, if the client does not want it too light, then this also works, but there is a simple problem here [sangeet] that what has he applied on his hair, did he apply dye, yes, so right now we are applying L double 4 on the dyed hair, now on the length, L double 4, now our L double 4 has started the application, look how amazing the application is, you have to find it in between, whatever the length was, it was on all of them We are going to apply pre- lightening also, our section is a little thick, our L double 4 is equally thick in between because as I told you, I wanted a little more color.
Yahan pe aapko cheez karte hain ki agar aapka client abhi humari model toh she can carry Bombay ke hain aur she is very you know bahut inke parties aati rati hai [music] toh inko ye colours chaujenge. But if I talk about tier two or tier three cities, they do not need too much colour.
Like now I am giving you an example that if the client says that I want a little more color, then the same highlighting that I have done, you do it with the fine section, okay and after doing it with fine, their global is a little bigger section here, so what is the ratio, the length of my L double 4 on which I am working right now, the same is my highlighting section, that means both are medium, so there is not much difference between the two. But what can you do? You can take a little more length of hair and if you do the highlighting hair with a little more fine thin section then you will get a little more saturated, a little blended and a little settled look.
Ok? You can do this. I have given you an idea. Why did I do it?
With slightly thicker sections because her hair was getting too dark.
Secondly, he wanted a little colour which normally people cannot carry. So it's a bit of a bold color. This is kind of a bold color. But what I just gave you a hint about is kind of a glamour colour. So this is the difference between glamour and bold. Does this go a little bit you know, a little bit over the top and if your client is a little more outgoing, bold, then you can do this color like I am doing. But if your client is into a bit of glamour, right? If you cannot carry a very bold look then you should do fine sections of your highlighting.
Almost all the other global applications are also being implemented very quickly. I am working single handed.
Look to show you guys that if I can do the work single handed then why can't you? So you people also have to try to work single-handedly.
Look, I have taken the proper color here.
Applied it section by section and then I am applying it. Of course my team is helping me along but my team stays together to mix the colors. Stay together for the shoot. Right? They were giving foil along with it. But the application [of music] you have to do yourself. You have to develop that habit. To work single handed.
Weather it is blue dry, weather it is hair cuts, weather it is so you have to take a little care of this when you are working. I also did single handedly root touch up in it, I have also done foiling of highlights. Right now we are also going global. So I am not taking any help from anyone [music].
You have to develop this habit. Ok? Which is a gent. So, some patience is required while colouring.
Time also passes but you have to do it very patiently and your hands should move quickly. Ok? So I hope you have understood till here. If you have any other questions, you can send them to me on WhatsApp.
[Music] You can drop me a line in the comments. It's up to you if you want to put it. If you submit, whatever your inquiries are, whatever your questions are, I will try to answer them for you. The rest of the hair was very dry, very thick hair and then I repeat again that there is dye color inside his hair.
So the result is going to be a bit patchy.
Ok? So this has to be taken care of. If this color dye color was not on her hair, then I would probably do L double 4 highlights and I would do a global of one dark whichever blonde we have, that is medium blonde, which is what I normally do on my clients.
But because here I needed lifting. So I used free lightning as an option. The colors are of all my shapes. I love the color Shskf. It is the best colors. So if you use good colours in your salon, it will be better. Although you may have seen a lot of my matrix as well. I also use Matrix. I also use VLA a lot.
But I feel that with Shaskuf, it gives a little more shine to your hair. Your client 's hair doesn't even get dry. So if you have to pay a little extra amount for the client's hair, it is just a little, there is not much difference, so I think it is right, so please go for 'Skaf', first number is 'Skaf', second number is 'Vella', these are good colours too and third number is your Matrix, it is fun to work more with these three colours.
Some more companies have also come now. Like when I was doing a show of Godrej, the people of Godrej company were present there, so we used color there too, so this is probably about Nanded, in Nanded we got very good results, the professional range of Godrej was also good, so I will not say that it was bad, even that professional range is good, otherwise I did not use it that much, I used your Ss Coffee more, so I will tell you about that, otherwise ours has also gone global now. The highlighting is done. And this is the result. It is coming out a little patchy but looks good. Our client was happy. Now you can see that the deposit is still pending here. Ok? Right now only the pre- lightning results have come, guys. Global, you see, has lifted a little. If you see, there are patchy results at some places.
Somewhere [MUSIC] Proper Blonde has come in somewhere. Now what we're going to see here is this, I'm taking V from seven stroke, and after mixing it, I'm going to deposit seven stroke seven.
So right now for depositing I have taken seven stroke seven.
What is in the Seven Stroke intake? Whose reflection am I getting? [MUSIC] Brown's. So right now I'm going to do a reflection of the brown color. I will only look for pre-lightening hair and will deposit on it. So now look how much work has been done. I'm going to make a deposit here right now.
Look, we will make the deposit here right now. I am doing it section by section. Look, work only after wearing gloves. Even if I don't put foil on the deposit, it will still work.
Okay, after pre-lightening, you guys always try to deposit it, it will be fine even if you do not use foil for depositing, but this does not mean that why I am applying it, so that unnecessary colour does not spread on the hair, the amount applied should remain the same, that is why I am foiling, otherwise I would have left it a little, see here, I could have taken bare hair and applied it directly, if you want, you can do it anyway. Many people might be thinking that if you have a deposit then why bother, you can do it with that also.
Deposit has to be made. There is plenty of space inside it. Right? So when there is space, it will be a deposit. He will not lift it. I've been doing it since volume 20.
From Seven Strokes we have taken from 20 volumes.
Keep this in mind also. Taken from Volume 20.
Hair is 100% dry. After that make the deposit. The process took a little longer.
Right? So you will have to have this patience.
You will have to be patient. Right?
Without that you are not going to get color. Here I am taking vertical sections. And I am going with the flow, meaning I am travelling from front to back. But when we applied the color, we had diagonal sections. This color will only work on pre-lightened hair.
Although their lifting has also been done by Dell Double4.
You can see.
But the L D which is from our seven stroke will also give us benefit. He is absolutely going to give. If you also like L Double 4, the touch of beige and chocolate brown also looks very good. So you all have seen the final result. But there was a lot of hard work behind it. You can see the hard work. So right now we [music] guys have thick sections all over our hair and we're taking it. You can also work on the fine sections as I said earlier.
But I had to work with thicker sections of her hair because I wanted to lighten it a little globally. Tell me how did you like today's color, this hard work that has been done for you? There is no need to think about anything right now. Just what am I taking? I am taking sections. I'm taking the hair that was free lightening and putting color on top of it.
How am I putting it simply? Single hand. You see, I am working single-handed. It definitely takes hard work.
You will have to develop this habit. It's a simple thing.
But let me repeat it once again. This color that I have done, you have to do this color on top of them. On whom? Who can carry a slightly bold look. Don't give this color to someone who wants less color. This is not for them. This is only for those with a bold look.
So this color is for the bold color. Ok? So remember bold. Bold means for those who can carry such strange colours. So these are personalities.
You have to look at the personality.
You will have to think according to that personality.
You will have to color it according to that personality.
You have to choose accordingly. And every time you will have to do something different. Ma'am, I have worked with him before with very fine viewing.
That video is also on YouTube. But I can't do the beans every time.
I will have to do something different. So this is one of those that I had given them after working with some fine sections and these have been coming to me for many years, for the last 20 years. I mean 20 years, so every time I try some new color.
So one of these is a little new. Ok? What's new in this?
That we have made some sections thick and for you also, if you make thick sections then you can see here how patchy it is appearing, especially in the front because here his hand goes easily, so here he has used too much color. So the result of pre-lightening here is quite patchy.
So if your client is okay with this patchy look then you can do it. Ok. So I hope you have understood till here also.
Looking for Pre Lightning's hair. I am going to find it and put it on the same wall after applying foil. I am about to make a deposit. Seven stroke seven v's medium blond with brown.
And it feels great. Now it will give you a slight chocolate feel at some places. It will give a brown feel at some places. At some places you will feel like selling. Right? So, you're going to see this a little bit now. Different, at some places you will feel like blood.
So, this also gives you this brown right now.
If you see in the middle, I have left some blonde hair in the middle.
So while washing, when we open these foils, that color is also going to go on it, so technically what will happen is that it will also get deposited on that, so a little less will come there, so from there you will see different shades of stroke seven, keep this in mind also, okay [sangeet] so our foiling is done now, single handed as [sangeet] you can see and this is the final result, this is our final result, it is a bold look, very bold and washed properly, it takes a lot of time to wash, the client also had a lot of patience, only then we were able to get this result and this takes a lot of time, a lot of efforts, so I would say that if you have seen the entire video here because it is long and only those who want to expand their work and have a desire to learn will be able to see it till here, otherwise it is difficult, so I thought that I should show you from a proper angle, tell me how you liked today's color [sangeet] I will take it with this You're allowed, thank you so much. Rest of the time, many of our classes are coming online. If you want to join the academy, you can come to Mumbai.
I will wait for you all.
Rest of the time, many classes are coming online in our Mumbai academy.
You all should join that too. Do tell me how you liked today's color.
I will wait for your messages. Thank you so much, love you all.
Take care, bye bye.
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