This video demonstrates essential door and trim installation techniques including checking floor level and adjusting door jams by cutting an eighth of an inch to compensate for uneven floors, using shims to correct bowing in door jam sides, installing hinges with self-centering drill bits, creating proper door reveals of approximately 1/4 inch using 1x4 trim, and installing baseboard with 16-gauge nails at studs and 18-gauge nails between trim and jam. The video also covers coping joints for baseboard corners, using CA glue for mitered returns, and building window jam extensions with proper shimming and leveling.
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Deep Dive
Lakehouse Build - EP77 - Doors, Baseboard, and Trim!Added:
New project day.
We have completed the hardwood floors.
And so now it's time to start hanging the doors. So I've got uh the door here.
I got the door jam.
And uh this is uh the bedroom leading into the bathroom. There's where we're storing all the uh cardboard boxes from the hardwood and the uh scaffolding. But uh yeah, so what I like to do in terms of starting is to check for level on the floor. And so grab a smaller level and I check. And yeah, it's out.
It looks about an eighth of an inch. And so what I will do is uh since these jams are already precut, what I'll do is cut an eighth of an inch off of the right hand side and then that will even it all out. Um, otherwise if you're starting from scratch, you could just cut the the one jam an eighth of an inch longer in terms of the hinge side and uh go about it that way. But uh since mine are pre-cut from the um lumber yard, um I'm going to uh cut an eighth of an inch off and then that way this will even out. So yeah, that's about an eighth of an inch. So, okay. So, let me go cut an eighth of an inch off.
Okay, with the jam cut an eighth of an inch off, and that accounts for the unevenness of the floor, the next thing I like to do is check the hinge side.
And so we can see that the hinge side is pretty good except the bottom there. It seems to bow in. So I'll have to account for that in terms of shims.
And actually the top needs to come out a bit. So yeah, I knew this was going to be a problem. This long 2x4, it's like a a 16 ft 2x4. And uh it wasn't the greatest. If I had another one, I would have changed it. But uh anyways, it's uh it is what it is. So, we'll just have to uh put some shims in behind the jam and uh take care of that.
Let's check this.
Yeah, this side's good. But everything's going to run off of the hinge side. So, let's uh put this jam together.
Okay, nailing the jam together. I like using a 16 gauge.
It's a little heavier gauge than the 18, so the nails tend to hold a little better. So basically just line it up.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Okay, next to install the hinges on the jam, I use this uh self-centering uh drill bit that uh basically fits inside of the holes of the hinge and then gets a nice uh uh drill bit.
just the corners.
They must use a a router jig at the lumber yard to uh do this. And I guess they don't clean up the corners that well.
>> [music] [music] >> This bottom one's off a little bit. I'm going to have to make a new line and uh just chisel it out just a touch.
Okay, with the door hung on the hinges on the hinge side, now we can work on the the lock set side. And so we got good reveal up at the top. And that's because we cut that eighth of an inch off. And so now it's pretty much level there. And so now we can just slowly work our way down and get a nice even reveal all the way down and just shim it out a bit.
Probably right about actually that looks pretty good right about there. And then just shim it in behind and then nail in a few spots.
Sometimes it's easier to do it from the other side.
Yeah, that reveal looks pretty good.
Just wait to make sure the jam is centered on the wall.
Looks good. It's coming up a bit.
And then we can confirm the level. Make sure it works good.
Okay.
Make sure we're good like this.
Check the view.
Bottom's going to go up.
It's pretty good with that.
Good there.
Good there. Here's the bottom.
Okay, that looks good.
Now we can just fill in few spots here just to give it a little backing.
You just want to make sure you're not putting additional bow in it.
You just want to snug it up.
Heat.
Heat.
Okay, just like that. We have a door. We don't have a handle yet.
So, that'll have to wait.
But, uh, there we go. Single panel door there. You can see the laser line nice and straight all the way up on that hinge side of the jam.
And then you basically just hang the door and then just make sure that the reveal is nice all the way down. And so you can see that's pretty good reveal all the way down. And then I always do shims at the lock set at the top and bottom and then kind of one in between.
And that just kind of holds it so that the uh the jam doesn't flex. And then once you put the trim on and you nail the trim, then that kind of holds all of that together as well. But, uh, there we go. One door done.
I like to do about a/4 inch uh reveal.
Um, maybe that's 316, but uh I find that the 1x4 we're using for the vertical uh on either side of the door, it gives it a nice uh shadow line and a reveal.
So, I think uh 1/4 3/16 is uh pretty good. I'm just using the uh the side of the uh little square here. So it uh keeps it uh standard across all of the trim here. So um once I do that for the two vertical side pieces, I'll measure from the floor up and get a an exact measurement and then go cut those pieces.
We got 81 and 116.
878.
That sounds about right. 80 and 78 because uh I cut about an eighth of an inch off of the um one side of the jam. So that would uh account for that difference. So Heat. Heat.
Nothing.
So, I used the uh 16 gauge nail gun to uh nail it to the We have studs in behind uh the trim here.
And then I use an 18 gauge, a thinner gauge to go between the trim and the door jamb. And that just helps to uh hold it so that you can't push it and uh helps pin it all together.
Heat.
Heat.
There we go. You get a nice uh crisp line, shadow line all along here. the 18 gauge, it pins it to the door jamb and so a little uh narrower of a staple or or sorry nail 18 gauge versus the 16. So you can see the difference in terms of the 18 and 16. So the 16 is a bigger, heavier duty nail. And so that goes into the studs in behind uh the trim here versus the 18 gauge is just going into the door jamb here. So uh helps stabilize everything. And I've I don't know. I'm sure there's many uh different ways to do this, but this is what works for me. And uh so yeah, it's looking good. So, we're doing a a 1x4 uh just a simple trim on the sides. And then up top, we'll do a little fancier.
There'll be like a pencil molding and then a 1x6 and then a top cap on on top of that that's got uh a different profile. So, I'll show you that when we get to it. But, uh, I just wanted to, uh, get the, uh, the trim along here so I can start the, uh, baseboard.
And so, the only thing left to do here in this room now is around the door jamb here.
So, I'll have to do the jam extension, bring that out, and then put the uh, 1x4 trim on the side here, and then I can do the the baseboard.
So, I continued last night and did uh these doors here. So, um here's this door.
So, this is into the closet. So, again, just a a single panel door, solid core.
So, it's they're heavy doors.
And uh I also did the uh 1x4 trim around it. And then here's the bedroom door here. So, here's the uh trim.
Again, just the 1x4 on the two sides.
So, that looks good.
So, we've got that. And then inside the closet, a little dark in here, but I did the uh 1x4 trim here as well. and uh along the back there. Hard to see it, but uh at least now I can start the baseboard all along in here.
And then uh same here. So I can start doing baseboard here. And then I just have to get to uh the jam extension there and put the trim on there. And uh yeah, it's looking good though.
With the door trim on, I can now start to do the baseboard. So, I've got this one done already. Basically, just use the stud finder, mark where the studs are, and then I shoot two nails, 16 gauge, top and bottom. And I used a little spacer just to keep the uh baseboard up off of the floor a little bit. uh just uh in case there's any imperfections in the floor and that kind of stuff, right?
So, I did that and basically, as I say, two nails top and bottom at each stud and then one at each end. And so, that's what the baseboard's going to look like.
And then there's a little shoe molding that we'll do at the bottom here. So, um this was an easy one, you know, straight shot. Just, uh measure and away you go.
And then I was working my way around the room and I decided to do the long one first so that this one can then butt into it. And I'll do a a cope uh cut uh in that corner. So this long one will be straight cut at that end and then straight cut at that end. And because it's longer than 16 ft, so I have this uh baseboard that's 16 ft long. And so I had to join it somewhere. So I decided to join it behind the bed. You'll never see it instead of having like a 1 ft piece over at that end. I think this was like just over 17 ft. Um so anyways, I got uh this joint. So, I cut it on a 45 and I think that's uh that's fitting perfect, actually. And again, just a couple of spacers, keep it up off of the the uh floor, and then I'll just go along, mark where the uh studs are, and uh shoot the nails, the 16 gauge nails.
So, let's do that now.
Okay, I just finished cutting this board and coped it. So, the way I cope it is I cut a 45 and then I back cut with like a jigsaw or something along along the line of where the 45 miter came and it kind of opens up and then you see it. Maybe I'll show that the the next time. So, let's see how this fits.
Should be snug.
There we go. Nice tight fit. And uh yeah, much better than trying to get two 45s to come together there.
Especially when you look at it this side.
This is the the viewing side that you'll see most as you walk into the room.
It'll be nice tight. And then even this side is uh pretty good here.
You know, once I fill the nail holes and you that joint a bit, it'll basically disappear. And then you just the top here once it's all nailed in.
And uh yeah, but yeah, that looks good.
So, just continue around the room doing this. So, I'll show uh the next time when I cut the 45 and then show the u the coping of it. I do everything in the garage. I've got all the wood in the garage and so a lot of walking back and forth, but uh yeah, maybe I'll show you my setup in the garage and everything.
So, I'll do that in the next one.
In order to finish the baseboard along here, I have to uh do the jam extension.
So, I've uh ripped some 1x4 down. I think it was 3 and 1/16th.
And uh so now I'm just uh shimming that around. So I nailed it all together as one piece from the top down into the side jams. And so now I've got the laser set up and I'm just going along and shimming it. and uh nailing it in place with the 16 gauge brad nail. And uh so I've got this side all dialed in. So now I'm just going to switch over to the the other side here and uh get that all shimmed up and uh yeah, then I'll be able to measure the 1x4 for the side and then I can continue the baseboard. So, um, jumping back and forth a little bit, but, uh, yeah, I just want to get the the trim all done in here. And, uh, I guess at some point I need to, uh, build up, uh, some scaffolding and do the jam extension for the window there.
And uh yeah, so luckily I got the scaffold. Well, I got the scaffolding here as a temporary location just knowing that I had to build it up there anyways. But uh yeah, I'll have to put some uh plywood down maybe on the floor to protect the floor and uh then I can build that uh scaffolding up. Luckily, I just have to uh do the jam extension there and then do the trim around the sides. So, um, anyways, back to this door here. So, let me get this, uh, laser moved and dialed in and, uh, then we can shoot that one off.
Here [music] I am in the garage at my uh cutting station that we put together here uh the other day. So, I I bought these uh uh cabinets from uh an auction a few years ago, and uh pretty uh pretty beefy, solid steel, metal construction, drawers, all that kind of stuff. So, I've got plenty of drawers for storing all my crap. And uh then the other day, I just cut some plywood. I had to uh I had them closer together and so I pushed them out a bit more and uh built this plywood base, put a couple of pieces on the side and then a top and then mounted the miter saw to it. Um and I've left it up a little high right now just because of the metal top. I eventually want to put some plywood down, maybe like a T track so I can have a stop block, you know, repetitive cuts, all that kind of stuff.
But uh for now, I I'm just uh I got some uh plywood uh temporarily to hold the the pieces at the the correct uh height.
But eventually I'll put like a double layer of plywood and then do a T track inside the uh second layer and just have a be able to stop it um for repetitive cuts, that kind of stuff. And then I've got my uh table saw over here. It's kind of a mess in here right now, but uh just kind of working through it all. But I've got all the trim in here. And so basically I just take it from the uh the floor here, cut cut the trim that I need. You know, right now I'm working on the baseboards and the 1x4s, [snorts] although I did use some of the 1x six for the uh the jam extension. So anyways, uh that's my temporary setup here. Hopefully uh we'll we'll get it a little more organized and functional, but uh it works for now. And uh then I've got the table saw set up here for um some of the rips. I had to do three three and a6. So I had to rip rip a bit off of the u the 1x4 for that uh window jam or sorry the door jamb. So I just got this set up here. So, um, anyways, let's get to, uh, cutting those, uh, 1x4s for the, uh, trim on the door. So, then I can continue on, uh, the baseboard there. So, >> [music] >> Well, I had my first blow out here. You can see the nail shot out the side. And I think that's because I was shooting the nail this way and it's got a lot more give in terms of it it can bend a lot more that way. Whereas if you shoot it on the side like that, then it's less likely to to uh blow out the the side because it'll bend up or down.
And so, yeah. So, anyways, I'll I'll have to uh pull that out and fix it. But, uh anyways, I forgot.
I got careless and instead of shooting it sideways, I was shooting it like that. So, anyways, quick tip there for anybody that's shooting 18 gauge brad nails. it'll more likely shoot left and right or curve left and right depending on the type of trim you're using. So, quick uh tip there.
All right. Well, other than that blowout, it looks good.
And uh yeah, now I can continue on the baseboard here. Katherine's painting the pencil molding and the other molding that goes across the top. So once that's all dry, then I'll uh work on that after. But uh I've got a lot of other trim to do here. So I can do baseboard and uh the u I forget what you call the other piece, the other smaller step piece that goes uh between the baseboard and the floor. I know some people call it quarter round, but uh it's not actually quarter round. Uh this is a different profile. It it matches the baseboard just in a smaller profile.
I'll show you that when I uh get to that point.
But yeah, it's looking good otherwise.
And then I've got all the uh baseboard in the closet to do. And so yeah, lots to do.
Okay, I need a coped end on this side and then 33 and an eighth.
So, what I will do is cut the 45 here first and then I can measure from the inside of that 45 out the 33 and an eighth and then just cut it square. I find that's easier than to try to measure and cut the exact uh 45 point. So, let me uh cut this out of 45 first and I'll show you what I mean.
Okay. So, here's my 45.
And so, what I will do is actually cut this out right at this line here.
and then this angle here.
And so all of this will get cut out. And I'll actually cut it on a bit of an angle just so that only the leading edge here is uh actually um I visible or whatever shown. So it'll actually be cut on a bit of an angle.
So, I'll just tilt the blade a little bit just so that it back cuts it a a touch and that'll be easier when it goes into the the coping.
And [snorts] uh I'll show you that Heat.
Heat.
And there you can see it. Uh, I guess I should have done a better job there. But, uh, anyways, that'll all get filled, a little bit of, uh, cocking paint and it'll be fine. But here, the point I'm trying to show you is that you can cope it, back cut it just slightly, and you get uh, this nice cut. And then because it's coped on that 45, it angles out that way. And that'll fit nice and snug against the other piece. And so now I will just measure 33 and an eighth and do a straight cut at the other end. And uh I'll show you how it fits in in the house.
Okay, let's see how we did with our cut here.
That looks pretty good.
Looks like this angle off just a hair.
But again, a little cocking it will be perfect.
Okay, I was thinking about the last coping uh where it had some tear out on the front edge. And so for this one, what I did was put the jigsaw upside down. And look at that clean cut. Now that's a nice clean cut. So I think that's the trick. Cut [snorts] it upside down uh with the jigsaw just because of the way the blade uh comes up and down. It cuts up and down directly with the jigsaw. Whereas you turn it around and you cut it from underneath and it's pulling the fibers back instead of pushing them out or you know butchering uh the front side. So here you look at the back side. Yeah. And it's you know not such a clean cut but that doesn't matter. The clean cut is on the front side which is what we want. So I think that's the key. So, if you're doing any coping, turn the uh jigsaw upside down and cut it that way. Feels a little awkward cutting it like that for the first time, you know, but uh it's it's only for a coping cut. And uh yeah, it comes out nice and clean.
And now look at that nice tight fitting. That looks perfect.
See? And then you're looking at this angle and you don't even see it. So that's the difference about coping versus uh doing a 45 inside corner.
Coping always looks better. And that looks great.
Okay, quick update on the trim here. So I've got all the baseboard all around uh the bedroom here. So it's looking good. obviously did all the vertical trim first so that the baseboard meets up to it and then uh been working on the shoe mold. Uh so that's this. It's basically a mini version of the baseboard. I think they call it like a one step uh baseboard. So I think this is a 7in one and then the shoe mold. And so what I've done is a miter return used a little CA glue to uh glue that little mitered return piece in. Uh you if you try to nail it, you would just split split it. So just a little CA glue and uh so that holds it nicely. So I do that for all of the pieces that come to meet the uh vertical >> [clears throat] >> And so, same with this piece here.
And then in the corners, move the radio.
And then in the corners, what I did was uh just like the baseboard, uh mitered and then coped it. So instead of uh cutting two 45s, I actually run this one straight in and then uh cope this one. And so by the time you fill the nail holes, run a bead of cocking in there, it's going to look great. So that's done.
And uh so yeah, just working all around the room here. Mitered return here.
And so the last piece I have is this one here. So coming across here. So I just need to measure it and then do the mitered return. But I thought I'd take you into the garage and show you how I do that. I've already done the upper trim here. So maybe I'll show that at some point on another one cuz I've done or I've built all the others.
I just need to nail them up here.
Catherine was just uh priming the the cut ends. She wanted to prime it all before I nail it up. Just easier to do it uh uh instead of it being nailed up.
So, those are all done. Uh just waiting for them to dry and then I can nail those on and then this room will be pretty much done from a trim perspective. So, let me uh go cut this piece and uh I'll show you how I do that.
Okay. So, my measurement is 70 and 116th. So, I actually measured 73 in.
I'm going to cut this uh mitered.
Put the saw at 45 here.
And uh that'll be the beginning of the coke. So, let me cut this.
And uh yeah, we'll cut this and go from there.
Okay.
So, we have the miter here cut at a 45. And so, sometimes hard to see where the the cut starts. So sometimes easy to [panting] just take your pencil and hopefully that shows you better.
And so this is where you want to cut. So we want to cut this out with the uh jigsaw and uh go from there. And then that'll be the start of our coped end. I don't have a normally a small little piece. I would use a coping saw, but uh I don't have it here. So, we're just going to do it on with the jigsaw.
So, the easiest way is to bring it down here and clamp it so it won't move.
And then we'll just cut this Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Let me just clean it up a little bit with the edge of the blade.
There you go.
It's pretty good.
Good.
Okay. So, now that we've got that cope cut, we actually measure from that cope cuz that's where I measured the uh the distance from. So, now we know that it's 70 and 116.
Hard to do all this with one hand and run the camera, but we'll just make sure we're hooked on there at that end.
Now we come 70 and 116th.
Okay. So now we need to miter this on this angle and then we can cut a little piece and do the mitered return.
So let me cut this on the angle first and uh then I'll show you the mitered return. Okay, there's our miter 45.
And so now let's cut a mitered return. It'll be a tiny little piece. So, it's always good to have like a zero clearance uh insert just so that the piece doesn't fall in there.
So, I save uh some of these little offcuts and uh things like that for this very purpose. Um because the mitered return is such a little piece, like I wouldn't even want to use this to try and miter it and uh get that return just because it's so small and you don't want your fingers anywhere near the blade. So that's where I use bigger pieces like this and then it makes it easier to do a miter return.
Okay. So, there's the miter.
And so, now what you're actually cutting is just this little piece. So, you just want to make a straight cut down there.
Basically, you want to bring the blade just kiss the blade to the beginning of the miter there. So, I find putting it upside down with this profile and moving to the zero.
And like I say, you just want the blade to kiss that miter. So something Okay. And you let the blade stop before you lift up. That way your piece doesn't get caught. And so this is the tiny little piece that we're talking about here in terms of a mitered return. And so what that looks like is when you glue this piece up and you stick it in there.
Maybe hard to see, but there that's what it'll look like.
So let's go glue it up now. So here we are just uh at my little uh outfeed station here. And this is where I glue it up. So, I I've been using this uh instant bond adhesive and uh the accelerator. So, it's a spray. So, let me show you how this works.
You basically just take the CA glue and I I do it on the little mitered return piece.
Just a little bit. You don't need a lot.
And then you take the accelerator. Well, shoot [clears throat] there. Still okay. You take the accelerator, give that a spray, and then you bring the little piece up to it.
Just like that.
You hold it there for maybe a five count.
Just like that.
And that's it.
So, that made a pretty good That made a pretty good mitered return.
You just take a little sandpaper, get rid of any of the glue squeeze out that might have come out.
That's it.
That's stuck on there. Good.
And just like that, you have yourself a mitered return.
Just make sure you put the cap on the glue. I don't know uh what the uh air time is on it, but uh anyways. Okay, let's go uh install this piece.
Oh, that's a good looking miter return.
Let's go install it and get it done.
Okay, let's see how we did here.
Put that piece in.
That looks pretty good.
We'll get it sorted here.
There. Perfect. It just clears that. So, that's great.
Hold on here.
So, that looks pretty good.
The angle just slightly off, but anyways, I don't think you can complain about that. That looks pretty good. Like I say, by the time you fill the nail holes, run a bead of cocking in there.
It's perfect. So, let's uh get this nailed off. And uh yeah, this room is done in terms of baseboard and trim here.
Okay, there we have That looks good.
Now I can uh I think the trim up for the uh headers is all dry now. So Katherine's been priming that. So let's go see if it's uh dry and I can start installing those.
Okay, here's the pieces that uh Katherine was uh priming the ends that uh were cut. Um, so here's what it is.
It's basically three pieces.
It's uh what they call this little pencil molding and it's just got like a rounded profile.
And so what I did is I just cut it square and then take a a router and just round over the two the bottom and top side just to match the profile on the front. because to try and do a mitered return with this little piece, it would be pretty hard and uh chances of it splitting or whatever, right? So, I just do the round over and that works. Then we have this top uh cap piece that uh bit of a a molding.
Um, and then I just miter this and glue it with the CA glue and uh then nail it to the top here. So, this is what the piece looks like for the header just like uh what we have on the door and the top of the uh window up there. And so these are all the pieces.
Um, so each of them get uh mounted on each side of the door and it just trims off the door. So it looks pretty good. So let's uh put one up here. So this is the 39.
So that's for this door here.
There we go. So that's what it looks like.
So looks pretty good.
when you look at the overall door. Then if we close the door here.
So when you stand back and look at the profile, looks pretty good.
Nice. It's got some height to it to uh match the the height of the ceilings here. We got almost 18 ft uh ceilings here. So quite the height. So I think uh this kind of lends itself to that.
nicely and just something simple. We we didn't want something really ornate.
I think this is nice clean lines. It goes with the single panel door. So, it just looks good. I know it gets washed out right now with the white walls.
Eventually, once we figure out what color we're going to paint in the bedroom here, this will uh all blend in.
So, we'll do uh the white door, the white trim, and we'll spray all that with the uh paint. Spray that, and then we'll uh figure out a color for the walls. So, uh it won't be so stark white in here. But, uh anyways, let's get to uh nailing this uh these trims on.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Okay. And there we have it.
That trim looks great right here. The closet and finally the bathroom.
So, looks good.
Yeah.
So, I still have the three for the other side of these doors. So, in behind the the bathroom closet I I can't get to right now. It's kind of storing our uh scaffolding. But uh then this other piece I can do it on the other side here. So we'll get to that.
[music] >> [music] >> There we go. We got that uh door jamb extension in.
So, that looks great. I built these other two window jam extensions. So, they're set.
They're all built. I just have to uh shim them a bit and nail them off. But that's uh what the finished look is going to be. This wall's uh a lot wider just because of the uh tall wall uh requirements in terms of the quadruple lvl going from all the way the floor all the way up. And it needed it 9 and 1/2 in lvl. So that's why this is so much wider than say a typical 2x6 wall where we'll just have a small jam extension.
But uh anyways, yeah, it looks good. And then it's almost like a little window seat. You can put plants, whatever, you know, just a little extra room.
And uh so then I have those ones up there to do. So, those four windows and those are all again wider because of the uh Lvls that we had to use for this uh wall, the structure in behind it. And uh then I can work on this window there, that window, and the far one in the dining room. And uh cuz those those three will all be the same size. So, this one, um, that one and that one are all the same size. I did these two here, the two far ones, cuz they were the same size.
Measured it up. And I just build it with the uh I do the top and bottom long and then just fit the sides in. That way, the sides have support top and bottom and uh not just relying on nails and screws to hold it. But yeah, that looks good. Once I get all these jam extensions in and shimmed out and leveled and nailed off, then I'll work on the uh trim.
All right, here I am in the great room.
I'm just uh building all of the window jams or the jam extensions uh for all these windows. So, I've done the two bottom windows, this uh door, and the two upper ones. So, here's a quick look at what they look like.
Basically, just a box. I put a four screws in each uh corner. Um, and that holds it nice and strong.
And so, pretty straightforward. build a box. Slide it in there. And uh for the upper ones, I'm uh making sure they're perfectly in line because uh my 1x4 trim is going to run up um between the two all the way up. It'll be one solid piece and then one solid piece uh in the middle there. And it won't have the traditional header like we have uh above the door here.
And uh so that's what I'm working on right now. Um going toh go cut the 1x4 for the two side legs and get that uh nailed up and then I can pull the ladder off of the scaffold. Uh because then I won't have to be up that high. I'll put the header across the top there and uh go from there. But uh yeah, it's looking good. these uh jam extensions, you know, they're pretty deep. And I've been shimming it along with the level, making sure it's nice and level across the bottom, putting shims in where they need to, and across the other side here.
So, looks good. It'll uh it'll be really nice once it's all complete with the 1x4 on the side and the header across the top, etc. So, just working on that right now. So, it's looking good. So, let me go cut some uh 1x4 for the two sides here. And then I'll show you what that looks like.
Okay, there we have it with the two side pieces. The one side here, the other side there.
With those on, I can take the measurements of the bottom, the middle piece here, and then the top piece. And I can build that top piece with the pencil molding, the 1x6, and the top cap. I can build that all as one unit, and then put that on. So, that's kind of why I did the two side pieces first while I'm up here on the scaffold. I can then take these measurements and uh but yeah, it looks good. So, let me go cut those pieces and I'll show you what it looks like. Okay, there's what it looks like with the bottom trim, the middle, and then the top piece all installed now. So, that just cleans it up nice.
Looks really good. And then here's what the uh before looks like. So there's uh the window I haven't done yet. Um starts with the jam extension and then the side trim and then the top and bottom trim.
So that's kind of the before and then here's what it looks like after when it's all done here. So yeah, it looks really good. I I think it was a good idea to combine these two just because of the gap here. There wasn't enough room to put a proper header and all of that in each window. So, I think it looks good to combine it here.
Not sure what's going to happen on the side there. I think we're going to run into the slope of the ceiling.
So, I may just have to put the piece in and then just cut it on the angle um when it's all done. But uh anyways, I'll see the dimensions once I get the side piece on and see what it looks like. But uh hopefully that doesn't look too weird. But uh anyways, it is what it is.
I guess if we move the window a bit more, but anyways, who who knew about uh thinking that far ahead in terms of trim uh when we were framing up this uh tall wall? But uh anyways, yeah, so that looks good. So now I can uh move the scaffolding over to uh one side or the other here and put those boxes in. So I've got the uh boxes already made there. So we'll get that installed and uh go from there.
There's another view of uh the finished center windows um off of the ground here. So again, let me get these uh boxes installed on the two left and right sides and uh yeah, then we'll get uh to putting on the trim.
All right, the windows up top here are complete with the trim.
Looks good.
And then this one. So, what I ended up doing was just build the header and then just cut it at the angle of the roof line. So, I think that looks pretty good. By the time we uh fill the nail holes and uh everything else, that'll all blend in. So, looks good.
>> Looks good.
>> Yep.
Got the thumbs up from the boss. So, there you go.
>> Boss does the work.
>> Yeah. [laughter] Move faster though.
>> Yeah. So, here we are. So, there's the final product.
Trim looks good. So, now I can uh break down the scaffolding and uh clean up.
So, let's get to uh cleaning up here.
Okay. Here's the view without the scaffolding in the way. So, all of the upper windows with the trim complete now.
And uh so yeah, that looks really good.
I like how the double one came out and just running the uh side pieces straight up through and just having a wider middle piece. I think that looks great.
And then uh the two end windows with the angle cut. So, I think that looks okay.
I don't think there's any issues with that. So, anyways, and uh so now with the scaffolding down, I can focus on these bottom windows and doors with the side trim and uh work on that. So, um I think it's looking really good, though. I like the look of it. It'll be nice when it's all nail holes all filled in, painted, and uh yeah, it's looking good.
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