I Built a Real-Time Tire Temp Monitoring System for Under $80 a corner!

Ajouté : 2026-05-31

[00:00:00]What if you could see exactly what your tires are doing while you're driving, not after a lap, not in the pits, right now? This ESP32 thermal camera project costs about 80 bucks a corner to make.

[00:00:12]It works on my digital dash and it can work on your phone as well. Let's go into how to make this. Okay, why do you need to know your tire temps? Why is it important? Well, there's a few reasons.

[00:00:22]The first one is if you're tracking the car, whether it's a car or a bike, whatever you're doing it with, you want to know tire temps so you know when the tire reaches optimal temperatures. You don't want to start pushing the tire too hard when it's cold and also you don't want to push it really hard when it's too hot. So that's kind of the first reason. The other kind of two reasons are basically are alignment and for pressure. So you want to know that your tire you're putting the appropriate amount of pressure into your tires and if they've hit a certain pressure based off the inner and outside and center temperatures. Same with your alignment setup. So, if you're running a lot of camber, typically the inside is going to be a lot hotter than the outside, depending on how you're set up, what kind of track you're running at. It's just valuable to know this information.

[00:01:04]So, now we know why we want this tire temperature information. Why did I develop this thermal camera kind of tool? And it kind of is out of convenience, right? It's not just convenience. Obviously, I like having the real-time data there. It's very beneficial as well. But if you track your car, you probably use a pyometer.

[00:01:23]This is probably what most people are used to see some variation of this. This is a long anchor pyometer. And basically this is going to when you come into the pits, you can stab different portions of the tire with basically this needle if you will and it'll tell you the kind of not internal temps like too deep but internal in the tread. So not surface temperatures. And the problem with this is for me, while it does check the carcass or the in internal temp of the tire, it's super inconvenient to get out and take at least 12 readings of a tire and then kind of mark that information down, kind of memorize it, and then kind of go from there to see where your, you know, pressures or your suspension is in terms of, you know, is it set up the way you'd like. The other way that people kind of do check tire temperatures and people say it's, you know, kind of worthless and useless is maybe an infrared kind of temperature gun. And the I kind of agree that this is kind of worthless in the sense that it is taking only surface temperatures and by the time you get back to the pits, the surface has cooled so much from its its hottest points down to where it is now.

[00:02:30]So you may still be able to judge the variance maybe from inner to outer and so on and so forth. There may be still that um presence of a you know a temperature variance from inner to outer you may get some information from this but this was kind of where I started. I was like what if I could take these temperatures that this surface temp is getting I know it's not the the carcass temperature but what if I could use that to get realtime temperatures and see that on my screen as I'm going and logging that data. maybe at the very least video recording what that gauge is picking up and then looking at that afterwards to see how each tire is handling a certain turn and so on and so forth. So I went from pyometer to a thermal sensor to a thermal camera and the camera is what we use to basically it's not a really high resolution. It's only 34 by 24 but basically we don't need it to be really high resolution. We just need those temperatures and those certain pixels. And what I developed here took quite a bit of code, quite a bit of work, quite a bit of back and forth. probably one of the most difficult projects that I had to develop here out of the the last few DIYs that I did just because it was a lot of it was mounting the sensors, it was obviously coding the sensors, it was finding the right sensors to work and then getting everything into a form factor that could be repeatable and usable all while still calibrating while we're mounting these sensors and making sure they're reading everything and showing everything appropriately. So, let's go into, you know, how to build these. We'll go into how to build them real quick. I'll go into the code and then I'll go into how to mount them and how the calibration step works and how you can see this data live. Okay, so what parts do you need here? First, an ESP32. I have this one already wired up or soldered. I will show how to do that in just a second, but an ESP32 light come in a fourack about 20 bucks for four. Then obviously the thermal camera prices have gone up on these like $65 now a piece. So maybe just start off building one, see how you like it and then kind of go from there.

[00:04:29]But these, this thermal camera is an MLX90640.

[00:04:35]Four of those. Then you need these batteries. I use 200 milliamp batteries.

[00:04:39]You can eventually hook this up to hard wire, but for right now, I'm just running off batteries. 200 milliamps will last on this setup about 20 hours, so it's plenty of time between charging.

[00:04:50]You need four of these, and it's about $20 for four. So, $5 for each set or for each corner. Then you're going to need two switches, one for power, one for mode. Again, a 10 pack of that. It's like 15 bucks. Link to that. Pretty cheap. And then this USBC extender, if you will, just a small extender. Four.

[00:05:11]Four of those. They're about five bucks a piece. Those are probably probably get them for cheaper elsewhere, but it's $5 a piece there. And then this 3D printed file, this 3D printed box that I made here with the with the power logo on one side. That's it. And I will provide this print file so you can make that yourself as well. So this is all you're going to need for each corner. And when you are done, it looks something like this.

[00:05:35]Okay. So now we'll go over the wiring briefly. I have all this laid out in the GitHub page as well, but I just wanted so you can visualize it. Kind of show it here. First is this connector that actually goes to the thermal camera. You can see it comes with the thermal camera. You just plug that right in. I actually, you can use the jumper pins that come with it. I trimmed them off and actually soldered this to the board.

[00:05:56]But the blue goes to the ground, which is the furthest pin by this JST connector right here.

[00:06:04]And then the yellow goes to the 3volt, which is the furthest pin on this side up top here. And then to pin 19, which they're all labeled on there. I'm not going to zoom in too far, but to pin 19, you have the green. And to pin 23, you have the purple. And that is the it for the connector. You can either use jumper pins, you can solder. I recommend that you do solder. And then you'll see a few other wires and resistors going here. The resistors, I have two resistors right here. You'll see them kind of going through. Basically, two resistors going to pin 34. And I set up my DIY race scales kind of the same way, but I didn't really elaborate on it uh for other people. Um, but basically what this is is these these two 100k resistors go to the positive and the negative on the JST battery connector and they go to they kind of come together and go to the pin 34 here. And what that does is that's reading battery level. So you have a battery indicator on the display. You may want that, you may not. If you don't, you don't have to do that 100k. Again, the battery will last about 20 hours and maybe you're hardwiring it, maybe you aren't. If you are hardwiring it, you definitely don't need the battery display. So that's up to you. The other two P the other two wires that are left are the ones to switch the mode. So we have calibration mode and then we have ESP or ESP now or sending mode which actually is sending data. The configuration mode is for initial mounting and setting up the box that you would like to actually display.

[00:07:33]And we have this red and this black. The red goes to pin 13, which is the furthest pin uh on the top here, the furthest to the right. And then the black just shares the ground with the blue from the uh thermal camera. And basically when these are joined together like via you would plug in the switch here. When these are join the switch is flipped on it goes between one mode or another. That is once you power it off.

[00:07:59]So you power it off switch the mode and then you would power it back on and the mode would go to whichever mode you had powered on there. So that is the quick and dirty of the wiring. Again I'll leave that out so you can kind of see maybe zoom in soldering job is terrible. I did put pin jumper pins on there and then solder to those pins. You can solder directly to the board. It was just easier for me to do it that way and be have plenty of room left um with everything going into the board. And then we have the battery wiring. And this is pretty self-explanatory. Again, if you're not doing a battery, you don't have to do this. But um it's just wiring up for a switch here. We put obviously we plug a switch into where it's powered on or off. um because we don't want to leave the battery running non-stop. And then to the JST connectors. The reason you may notice is that I have the red and the black kind of swapped is because on some of these J these batteries and these ESP32s, um this JST connector, the positive is actually where the negative wire would be. So this red to black here, right here, is actually the um ground wire that we're actually plugging in. It's not, even though it's a red coming from the battery, it's actually ground coming here. So, it's kind of flip-flopped.

[00:09:11]Just make sure if you plug a JST connector battery into this and the polarity is reversed, like a positive is going to a negative and negative. You will blow this board. So, just check the polarity. Just look at the wiring. Red is positive, black is negative. And then look on the board. It'll say plus on one side, minus on the other. And make sure that it's appropriate before you just plug it in. Same thing that happened on my DIY race scales. I use the exact same boards and a slightly smaller battery, but still kind of the same setup. Kind of have a switch here and kind of go from there. Pretty cool stuff. Okay, now we'll go over how to install everything inside this box, the switches, the battery, everything, so we can close it.

[00:09:48]Uh, and I'm going to be using a healthy amount of hot glue here, but I'll time-lapse this and you can kind of slow it down if you need to to watch it, but it's pretty pretty easy to do here.

[00:09:58]Let's go.

[00:10:26]Can elaborate right here. just by showing exactly what it looks like on the inside. You can see that we have the battery on the bottom and then right next to that is the thermal camera poking through right there. Then on top of that is the ESP32 going this way with the USBC extension coming out kind of hot glued in that hole that I left there. And then the two switches on either side and not confusing power and mode on the other side. Power is kind of raised. you can kind of feel feel it and you'll know which switch to hit if you're not if you're hardwiring this and not actually uh are using the battery. So the switch is I kind of offset these so you have enough room for both and I wanted to keep it as small of a form factor as possible. So you can see these black and red wires go to the battery and then the ones beneath on the other side for the mode which are again offset go to the ground and the 13 pin to switch between modes. So I'll leave that up right there. That's what it looks like. I did put kind of some tape over the electrical tape over the resistors just because it's exposed metal and I didn't want to make sure that you know it wasn't experiencing any short circuits or anything like that. But that is how it looks when you are done and everything is inside. Close the box. You can see power. I did you don't really need to hot glue around power but or the switches but I did. They should snap right in place and be kind of airtight but I wanted to air on the side of caution. And again, the hot gluing of the USBC in that hole to kind of make that airtight and stick in place. And then again, Saran wrap over here. You can double wrap saran wrap. It saran wrap will melt around like 100°. So you may want to use uh a freezer bag, a ziplockc freezer bag over that. So you can put it over the whole thing or you can just put it over this section before you put it in. Um, and basically what they will do is they allow the thermal camera to read thermal temperatures through the either the sur ramp or the ziplockc bag and provide it with protection because again this is going to be not getting blasted by the wheel.

[00:12:27]We'll show where to mount it, but it will be kind of more exposed because it's going to be outside the car. So, we want to make sure that we're protecting that in some way, shape or form. And the venting, you can decide if you want to keep those vents or not depending on where and how you mount it. So, that is the final product. Let's go ahead and mount these and I'll show you how I did it and we can kind of go from there.

[00:12:47]Disclaimer here. The code is always going to be free and open source.

[00:12:52]However, I'm just asking that people don't try to sell this or profit from it. I licensed the code to say as such and I don't want to sell this either. I know I can make a lot of money off this or off my DIY race scales or off my DIY digital dash or off of anything that I've created over the past even six months. So, I'm looking to breed innovation with this. And you don't do that by making another product for people to consume. There are a bunch of people on the Discord right now and in general who are taking the products that I made before, making it their own, but also adding to the codebase and making it better for all. So, it's one of those things where I do not, as I said before, just want to give out fish. I prefer to give out a fishing pole. And with that fishing pole, I want to see what kind of fish you can catch. Okay, so let's go over the code very quickly and get this code loaded onto these ESP32s. Let's go over what you need first. So, you'll see under my repositories here, we have the DIY ESP32 thermal tire temperature repo. And you can see that there's two separate folders. There's one with the phone parent and there is one with the child for web app or other use.

[00:14:01]If you're using this like I'm using this, which is just to present something to a digital dash or something that doesn't need to be displayed to a to a web app or a phone if you will, then you really only need the child. But I think for most people who are especially just getting started out may want to download both, which is the parent app, which is the phone web app portion, and then there is the children as well. So either way, we'll just click on the code link here and we can download that zip. That is the first thing you will need. The second And the only other thing you'll need software-wise, if you haven't already done any of my other projects or seen this, you just need the Arduino IDE. So, you're going to go to this website here. I'm going to post it in the description. You can just look up Arduino IDE and then download. That's the IDE for your operating system. And once you have that done, we will pull up the code. Okay. So, now we have the parent code pulled up here. And again, this doesn't apply to everyone. And this only applies to people looking to do the phone app. I'm imagining a lot of people though would want to try the phone app first before they send the data elsewhere. So the first thing we want to look at here is the required libraries.

[00:15:11]And I have that right here in the comment section up top 27 to 31 here.

[00:15:16]Basically all you would do is you would go in the Arduino IDE third button down on the side here looks like a bunch of books and you would just take each one of these that I have here copy paste and then install the library that pops up again the first library that pops up for each one of these I'll show you each one so you can see this says installed version 3.111 this is by ES ES uh ESP32 async and then the async tsp one. It's exactly how it's spelled.

[00:15:49]There's going to be a bunch of libraries that look similar. So, make sure you get the ones that I'm showing here that I have copied.

[00:15:55]And that one right there is the last one. Okay. So, now you have all the libraries installed. You can go ahead and load the project onto an ESP32 board. Before you do that though, I just want to go over a little bit of the code just to kind of show you what's going on. A couple things here. First is the Wi-Fi that you're going to be using on the Wi-Fi networks. how they're named for the actual dash, which is what's going to be you're going to log on to this Wi-Fi network, the entire dash network. And after you log onto that network and enter the password 12345678, you will then go to the address that I've provided, the 192.168.4.1, and that will pull up the tire dash. So that's the first thing that's in uh tire dash mode, if you will. The other mode is tire calibration mode. And all of the ESP32s have this tire calibration mode.

[00:16:50]It's to make sure when you're mounting the tire or mounting the uh when you're mounting the thermal camera that you have it in the appropriate spot and that the box is set up to display the zones appropriately. So that's going to be the Wi-Fi network is going to be called tire cow. It's 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 for the password as well. And again, you're going to that exact same address. It's all on the GitHub read me. If you have any questions or you're like, I don't understand that. You can read it as I go through it in the GitHub readme. It's all very it's all laid out there very well. So, those are that was one thing I wanted to go over. You can go we can go through the code here. It's a lot, right? I'm not going to it's like almost 2,000 lines of code. I don't want to bore anyone to dep death death with this. And it does not too much different than the ch the children files do.

[00:17:37]However, it does present in HTML a page.

[00:17:41]That's the only is added really to this parent is that it's not only uh getting that thermal temperature data instead of sending it out like the children are. It keeps it and it's also a brain that takes in the other data from the other tires as well to display that on the web page. If again if you're not using the phone then they're all going to be children that are sending out even the front left one will be a child to send out to a digital dash or another display of some kind. So you can look at if you want to work on displaying this your own or taking this data in, you can look at the payload. So the payload that is being sent out and is expected to be received is right here. And that's something lines 127 to 132. And this goes for the ones that's expecting to receive and the ones that are being sent out. You have a tire ID. You have the battery which is the battery percentage at a given point. So you know the battery percentage of the actual uh thermal camera sensor here. And then you have zones. It's five zones. So we have one, two, three, four, and five. One being the inner zone on the right side and or the left side and one being the outer zone on the right side. So it kind of mirrors so it doesn't it's not backwards. We have zones one through five. And then the last is the hottest temperature. I just sent that just in case someone needs it. Um it's just the hottest display, the hottest point that the thermal camera is picking up. So you can kind of register that. This is an example of a tire packet.

[00:19:13]Okay, that's all I'm going to really do to go over the code. The only thing that you would need to add to this code or modify in any way, shape, or form is um on this specific code is really nothing.

[00:19:25]It's pretty straightforward. So now we're going to take our sensor here and we're going to actually plug it in. But before we do, I'm going to click on this dropown up here where it says ESP32 dev module. Click on that and will show me all my available USBs. When I plug that in, we can see we just got another one and it's that ESP32 USB serial 2120. We're going to click on that because that's we know we just connected and then we're going to go ahead and upload the code. So this this check mark is a verifier compiles the code. This uh arrow means upload. We're going to go ahead and upload. It does both. It compiles and then uploads. So we're going to go ahead and do that.

[00:20:06]Okay, once it's done uploading, it'll say hard resetting via RTS pin. That's how you know it's done. And then we can go up here to the serial monitor. We want to look at this serial monitor up here. And you can see I have it actually output the MAC address when it boots up.

[00:20:21]So you should take this MAC address and just copy it. So everything after RST, go ahead and copy this FC all the way to A4. Yours is going to be different. It's not going to be start with FC. It's not going to look exactly the same.

[00:20:32]basically to be two digits followed by a colon. We're just going to copy that all over. So, we'll just take that and copy it into our clipboard. But now what we will do is we'll actually check to make sure that the code loaded properly and everything works. So, what we'll do is we will make sure the mode button is set in the off position and then we'll turn the power to on. So, turn the calibration mode off and set the power to on. And then what I'm going to do is a network should become available which is tire dash. We'll click on that tire dash and then we will go ahead. Again, you can do this on your phone to test.

[00:21:07]This is not just going to work on your computer. It's going to work everywhere.

[00:21:10]It's creating its own network. Then we're going to go 192.168.4.1.

[00:21:15]And you can see this is displaying pretty crazy on my uh on my computer. But if I go into like a phone mode, if I simulate a phone, you can see that it's displaying that front left tire. And if I take my hand and put it in front, you can kind of see the gradient changing and the hot temperature changing. I'm take my hand, put it in front.

[00:21:36]There we go. So, all we need to do here is connect the other uh three tire temperature sensors. And I'll show you how to do that right now. Okay. So, now we're on to the children. So, we have the the front left is that parent. If you're using the phone app, just the front left and that's it.

[00:21:55]This is where you would have to change two things in the code. Very minor changes. But the first thing I wanted to go over because we touched on it, we did this on the DIY digital or the race scales as well. If you looked into that, is change the MAC address. So basically all we need to do is that MAC address that we copied earlier, we're going to just put that up here so we can look at it on line 77 here. Looking for the receiver address. And you can see there's an example right above it on line 75. So it says 1153 CB so on and so forth. So 11 is right here, 53 is right here, CB is right here, etc. So right here we would put FC.

[00:22:33]Basically, it's just prefaced with 0x.

[00:22:36]So 0x FC 0 and you go through each one of those. Pretty easy. That's all you would need to do to change that MAC address. And now the MAC address, the receiver is is going this these ESP32s are going to be sending this data to that parent. So, we have that all lined up. Okay, that's the first thing you would need to do. The only other thing you would need to do is change this tire ID. And I literally have that defined for you right above. Zero is for the FL tire, meaning that would be the F the front left tire. We already have that front left tire set up though. So, that's the parent, right? That's the brain. So, we don't need to do that one.

[00:23:14]So, if we the next tire would be the front right tire. So, we would do a number one there. And then we would with that receiver address updated and with that tire ID updated, it is good. That's all it needs. It is ready to go to the ESP32. You upload it from there. Same process. Just hit the plug it in, hit the upload button, and you're done. Then the next ESP32 will get plugged in.

[00:23:37]Change that number to two. So on and so forth. Change it to three for the next one. And then you're done. That is it.

[00:23:44]You can go through this code and look. I don't want to again bore anyone to death with what I have done here. This code is a little bit less less slightly less complex because it's not displaying um a web a web server for you know you to be able to view once you log onto the network.

[00:24:01]However, there is a lot of algorithms.

[00:24:05]There's a lot of smoothing uh just avoiding outliers just to make sure that there's a smooth gradient change. And if you want to, you can look at that. But at the top, the only other thing that you may want to change is the max allowed tire temp. And I put it at 230.

[00:24:22]230 is really hot um for some tires, but I'm I'm thinking of my 200 treadware tires. Maybe it's not too hot for your slicks. I'm not sure. You may have a different number in mind or a lower number in mind. So, I put 230 there for the max kind of a loud temp. And basically what that does is it won't read any temperature higher than 230. It kind of like ignores it because it knows that 230 is possibly picking up maybe the rotor, the hub, the road, I don't know, something that is not, you know, the tire. So, we know if it's above 230, it should just be ignored. Uh, but the rest of it's pretty straightforward. And once you load those on, then you're good to go. Let's go over mounting from here. But for the most part, we went over loading it. We went over uh what the the dash kind of looks like on the phone. And we really need to go into calibration mode. And we'll go into kind of mounting that here and showing you what calibration mode looks like and how that works. A bunch of gotchas on this. The first thing is you may want calibration mode open while you're actually mounting this. And shortly after I show you where I mounted mine, I'll show you how to open up calibration mode and kind of use that.

[00:25:32]Calibration mode shows an entire thermal view so you can see what the camera sees and make sure that you're going to pick up the tire in its entirety. The second thing is you want to keep this kind of far away from the tire and in the front of it or above it. You don't want it behind the tire because you want to just get pelted with rocks or water. So in front would probably be best and that's where I mounted mine. And I kind of have it diagonally. And again, I'll show it here in a second how exactly how I have mine mounted up. But you can kind of mount it diagonally. It doesn't have to be pointed straight at the tire. And the reason I did it diagonally was because I was able to get it further away from the tire and I was able to pick up all of the area. Depending on how wide your tire is, diagonally may be your only option. Another thing, there are 110 degree cameras as well. These are only 55 degrees. So, you know, they can only see like if I'm holding it up like this V right here, 110 could see like around this kind of like resolution, if you will. The problem is the it they both display the same number of pixels. So, with that 110, you're really losing out on a lot of resolution. So, it's basically just think of like the same 1080p, but on a much larger screen, it's going to not look better. It's going to look kind of grainier. So, it may not be as accurate. Um, but it allows you to mount the cameras a lot closer to the actual tire, which again I don't recommend for heat and for just being pelted with dirt and water. So again, we want to keep it diagonal. We want to open up calibration mode. The other thing to keep in mind, I didn't mount mine to either the suspension or the tie rods or anything like that to turn with the tire. And you may be thinking, well, I want to see what's happening while I'm turning the tire. Most times when you're turning or or driving at the track, you're not doing like a parking lot turn to where you're just jamming the tire full right or full left, locking it, and then yes, you're going to the tire is going to go out of the range, if you will, of the actual camera. What this will do is on these slow tire turns or on these, you know, 10 20 degree tire turns, you will miss some portion. But the way that I set up the code, it isn't a stark change to where when it sees a temperature change, let's see, say it accidentally points at the rotor or someplace it's not supposed to point, like the inside of the wheel hub because the wheel is turned, it's not going to shoot from all the way cold or wherever it was to bright red instantly. It'll slowly start to warm up and as you turn the tire back, it'll catch back up with itself. So, if it was just an onoff switch and just quickly switch from one color to another, then yeah, the data would be kind of useless while you're actually turning. But the way I've coded this up, the way I've made it kind of ignore certain pixel ranges and kind of ignore hottest and coldest ranges, it will not just jump from one range to the next. So, I would mount it to where it is stable. I wouldn't mount it to where it turns with the tire. Rear tires, obviously, it's not a big deal at all because the rear tires don't turn. Um, however, if you want to make it so it turns with the tires, you would need to set something up kind of opposite to what I did and make something that hooks up to either to the suspension in some way, shape, or form or the tire rod to turn with the tire. I don't recommend it because it's going to take a beating um being attached to something that isn't, you know, the frame. Um, that's my personal opinion, but you can take this and kind of elaborate and make it your own. So, whatever you all want to do, kind of go from there. Let's go into how I mount it. Okay, so here we're showing the front right tire. That's the one we did. This is what I bought and used. I just used like a flat bar of aluminum that's like an eighth of an inch thick and like four feet wide. That way I can cut it and use it for each tire. It's thick enough to where I can bend it. But you can see I kind of attached the sensor to the frame. It's a good distance away from the tire. It doesn't look that far from here, but we're talking like I measured it. It was right around 18 in away from the tire. And you can see it's diagonal to where it's pointing. And in calibration mode, you can make the bands different sizes. So, it's not going to just say, you know, this is one side and then, you know, it won't be wrong there. We we'll go over the calibration menu here in a second.

[00:29:38]But this is where it's best to keep the calibration mode open as you're kind of mounting it. Kind of did that. It's hard to like do that process over video. So, I'll show you the calibration process and why I mounted it here. But, just an example there. You can kind of see. And again, I put this wire kind of off to the side, but this would be where you would charge it and put a dust cover over it. But this would be where you would charge it.

[00:30:02]Or if you end up hard wiring, you would just have a USBC to what a 12vt to 5vt buck, a buck converter, and then you would be able to power this without using the battery. And it would just turn on with the car, which is pretty cool. Okay, just so it's easier, I'm using a a different sensor to show you how I'm going into calibration mode first. Basically, all we're going to do is switch on. So, you want the the white the the line, if you will, switch that on for the mode and then you switch on power. If you switch on mode after you switch on power, it's not going to go into calibration mode and vice versa.

[00:30:34]So, you want to make sure you do that first. All right, switch on mode and then switch on power. And I already did that to the sensor we just installed underneath. And then all I'm going to do is open up my Wi-Fi and go to Tirecal one. There tire cal one.

[00:30:55]The address 192.168.4.1.

[00:30:59]See it up top there.

[00:31:04]It's all on the GitHub read me, but I'm just going over by hand here. And now you can see this is what this tire underneath is seeing. So if we go closer here.

[00:31:14]Put this right here. When I start putting my hand in here, see my hand is being picked up as I'm holding the tire on the actual screen. And then all we need to do is just get that box perfectly lined up. So you can see my two fingers right there being exposed.

[00:31:30]I'll put them down. Two fingers up again. See them right about there on the edge. And then if I put them on the very inside or I can put them all the way across. See my hand? and I'm touching the inside of the tread right there. So, basically, that box is pretty much where we want it. But if it wasn't, all we would do is just highlight the box, make it as big or as small as we want, and then we can change each band accordingly. So, it's already set up to swap for right or left. So, it knows that it's on this side of the car, the passenger side, in the United States at least, the passenger side. And it knows that this would be the inside tread, and this would be the outside. And then it switches on the other side of the car.

[00:32:11]So everything is all set up here. All you got, again, we just make sure that we have the entirety of the tread. You can use your hand, use whatever you want. Your hand's going to be pretty hot. So once you get it mounted to where you can pick up your hand, that's the big thing is you want to make sure you mount it somewhere close to where you can get it the entire tire inside the screen here. And then once you do that, then you can pick up the entire thing.

[00:32:33]So you can see my entire hand is pretty much picked up there. I'm gonna say that's good, but I'm not going to save it because I already had this one kind of set up and saved. But when you're done, there's a little save button at the bottom. You just hit save and then it's good to go. And then you would go back to the actual box. Again, this is underneath. I'm not doing the one that's that's mounted up right now, but you would just hit the mode button, turn the mode button off, then unpause power it off, and then power it back on. And then it would be in sending mode. So, let's go ahead and see if it's sending.

[00:33:09]Okay. So, now let's turn on the gauge cluster.

[00:33:15]Then we'll switch screens and make sure the front right is reading. And there we have it. Front right is reading correctly. What I'm going to do now is I am going to let me focus it a little bit better. There. I am going to add heat to the inside of the tire. I'm going to use a heat gun here and so you can see how the gradient changes. Give me one second.

[00:34:01]Okay, that was quite a bit of heat.

[00:34:04]And you can see it changing from kind of the whole tire is changing, but the inside is definitely that lighter blue. And you can see the kind of gauge that I have in the middle. It goes from 70 at the lowest all the way to 220 for the hottest and basically we're at about 120 or we got to 120 and now it's definitely cooling down. You can see it cooling down quickly. Kind of the gradient change here. It's actually pretty cool. It doesn't just swap from one color to another. It's a slow gradual kind of shift in color. Takes a little bit to cool down, but you can see it definitely cooling down here. So again, this is not just for the DIY digital dash. It's for works on your phone as well. I showed you how to do that in the code. You can use it on your phone and then maybe migrate to the digital dash or to your own setup and send it anywhere you'd like. It's just easy right now if you want to just just jump in and get started to use your phone maybe to get it up and running. I appreciate you all watching. Again, I appreciate the constructive criticism, everyone kind of building on this in the Discord, in the comments. I'm sure people will modify this and make it their own. Let me know how I can help with the code or the 3D print files. I appreciate you all watching.