An underrated watch brand is one that produces exceptional quality watches but receives less recognition than it deserves, often due to factors like distribution challenges, pricing strategies, or brand storytelling issues rather than product quality. The video identifies several such brands: Parmigiani Fleurier (fully in-house manufacturing but struggles with retail perception), IWC (diverse portfolio but limited US market presence), Breguet (rich heritage but poor market positioning), Glashütte Original (German engineering excellence but case proportions and storytelling issues), Lange & Söhne (revolutionary designs but high prices), and Lucerne (exceptional chronometer-certified watches but limited distribution). The key insight is that brand recognition depends on more than technical excellence—it requires effective marketing, appropriate pricing, and strategic retail partnerships.
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Deep Dive
Debating What Are THE MOST UNDERRATED Watch Brands.
Added:From our last podcast, we got a ton of feedback that people now wanted our list for the most underrated brands. So, Rich, let's get right into it. Before we get into the video, I think one thing needs to be addressed because people were upset like we stole their lunch money in the comments on the last video.
It was a spicy topic to be fair.
>> Yeah, I think a lot of people are on the wait list for a Royal Oak. No, no question about it. Or they at least have to be, you know, secure in themselves and their collection. Hey, fair enough.
If you enjoy the Royal Oak, great.
Awesome. That's just our perspective.
>> But you know what though? I do want to say this. I do feel like if you read the comments, >> I bet more than 80% agree with us across the board on everything. It's the >> people who are in opposition that spoke the loudest >> 100%.
>> And I felt like took the conversation very personally.
>> Yeah. Totally. And obviously that's not our intention. You know, the point is we're literally just communicating, hey, this is our preference and we're just sharing it with the audience. If it resonates, great. If it doesn't, >> absolutely.
>> It is what it is. You have to throw my hands up. But, uh, yeah, most underrated brands. Now, we did kind of create parameters for this conversation, which is brands that are new at retail because the problem is obviously if you open it up to pre-owned watches. I mean, there's thousands of watches I could say that are undervalued. You know, anything from Omega, Brightling that trades 60 off in some cases, you know, Panerai, you go down the list. There's so many different brands you can mention. So, we're really going to focus it only to new watches at retail. Uh, I guess if you want to start off, why don't you start us off with your first pick?
>> Yeah. So, you know, I think that this will surprise some people, but I think a lot of people will agree. I do think though that Parmesani is totally underrated. I know you are going to laugh. I know that it's not your brand, that you don't care for it, >> but I think that they're making some beautiful watches. I think that they have some really interesting, unique color variations on the dial, some beautiful texture. The integrated bracelet on the T, I think, is is beautiful. I like the curvature of the lugs. That micro rotor on the movement is is really nice. I think it's a great brand. I think that there's still a lot of value there. You know, I mean, it's not a cheap watch by any means, but you know, I think that what you're getting for what you're paying is quality and I think that it's a beautiful watch.
>> Yeah. I think for a a very long time, probably if you go back 15 over the last 15 years, Parmesan Flurry was a very lost brand, right? And I think if you look at, you know, their designs, and all brands experienced this to be fair, like AP went through this, Vashron, even if you look at some of the 90s and 2000, Vashron, I mean, listen, we might be an authorized dealer. I'm going to cut it straight. There were some dogs that they made, like real dogs. It It's just a reality. Some brands lose their way, but they come back. And the new CEO, I forget his last name, but it's like Guido something. He's been terrific. And he's really kind of reimagined like what Michelle Parmesani's original vision was and create it kind of in the 21st century. I think the Tonda is great. I love the new Torx. I think the Torx are fantastic. Uh, and they're doing some interesting complications. And listen, the price point is the price point. It's not cheap. Nothing is cheap anymore.
That's just what it is.
>> Yeah.
>> And as much as people may harp on, >> hey, watch brands are in-house, this, that, the third. Parmesan is one of those few manufacturers or brands that can actually claim to be fully in-house.
They have everything. They're fully vertically integrated from dial, casem making, bracelet. Uh the straps they source from Hermes actually. So it's top quality leather and they also supply movements to a bunch of different companies. The Voschure movements uh which are also technically in-house owned under the Parmesani umbrella. So I will say this, although they were lost in the past, I think they've turned a new leaf and the new stuff that they're making over the last 3 to 5 years has been really inspired and really great actually. And I think that their biggest opportunity is I think that they're an awesome and I hate to use the word alternative, but if you are looking for an integrated sports bracelet that is not all the hype craze, it's not a Royal Oak, you know, it's not a Nautilus, it's not an overseas, you know, I think that the T >> and and it's it's a real high herology sports watch, right? Like micro order movement. It's excellent build quality.
I think the one thing that holds them back and we kind of discussed this in the past with Parmesani is that they have this kind of misconception from people still to this day and and maybe it's because of the retailers they work with or whatever that like as soon as you buy a Parmesani new you're taking a huge loss and that is the case unfortunately even though their watches are great but like there's not a single watch other than maybe the the the T that you're going to lose pretty much 60% of the value that you paid you know which is tough that that that becomes a tough value proposition, but that's not to say that the quality isn't there.
It's just changing the perception in the minds of collectors to say like, hey, this is actually a very high quality brand and it's worth the money.
>> But, you know, too, I I I think that the fact that they're even pushing the boundaries and the limits. We talked about this in videos a couple weeks ago with the new chronograph movement that they released at Watches and Wonders.
Like, they're in the right space.
They're moving the right direction. You know, I think that it's exciting to see where they're going to go. You know, I think that, you know, being a smaller independent, family-owned brand, they're really at the mercy of their distribution. Yeah.
And I think that, you know, to get brand equity up, you have to have the right partners. We've talked about this in the past with other brands and% I think that their distribution >> could and should be so much better. And I think that's the biggest obstacle that they face. Totally. It's not the product, it's it's who's telling the story >> 100%. It's the only thing holding them back. And the CEO is doing a great job, but at the end of the day, he's also at the mercy of the sales points, especially in America. And when you have, you know, unfortunately not so great sales points kind of pushing your brand, it does affect the overall brand perception for sure. Um, okay. My first pick is going to be one obviously viewers are very familiar with, you're very familiar with. That's IWC. I think IWC has actually become very underrated.
Now, we're not talking about the engineer because I think that's been very wellreceived by the overall watch market. But actually, if you look at everything else, their Mark series has become pretty underrated. I mean, what does a Mark 20 go for with the bracelet?
Around 6,000 >> 6200.
>> So, $6,200 for that watch. You get an integrated bracelet with a quick change system, beautiful dials. I mean, the blue is unbelievable. Fleeer kind of pilot style watch that is distinctly IWC. All for 62 power. And the new new movement 5day power reserve. I mean, that is a fantastic watch. But you go down the list, they're one of the few, and you actually made a great point about this. They're one of the few brands that offer something for everybody. Sports watches, dress watches, field watches, grand complications. I mean, they make everything. And you you look at Yeah.
You look at their new stuff, the pro set with basically being able to go forwards and backwards with the perpetual calendar, the eternal calendar, which they released a couple years ago.
Obviously, they have chiming watches.
They even make the shock absorber watches. I mean they make a huge diverse range of watches and I think actually in terms of their overall watchmaking I know JLC is known as the watchmakaker's watchmaker. IWC I think has done such a better job over the last 20 years of really showcasing that they're a phenomenal watch maker and deserve all the praise just like JLC gets. I couldn't agree more. And I mean you know me, you know how much I love the brand.
I don't want to go on a tangent here and talk for 25 minutes, but I mean I think that they're one of the few houses that truly does everything. You know, you can find a beautiful watch for your son, you know, for your husband if you know, and for your grandfather. I mean, they literally have an offering for everybody. Aqua timer if you're a swimmer, a pilot watch, you know, uh a field watch, the perpetual calendar, the Portuguese. I mean, like they're so diversified and have an offering.
There's something in IWC for everyone.
If you were to visit a boutique or a proper ad that has the full assortment, there's no way I if the sales associate is doing the exploratory phase properly, you're not leaving loving something. You might not buy on that first, but you're going to walk away thinking about one of those watches.
>> Yeah, I I couldn't agree more. I think it really has something for everybody.
The the one thing that I say is the one drawback from IWC, it's not the price point, because I actually think they're very fair for what you get, right? The one thing is the sizing like on some >> but they are coming down listening.
>> That that is true and that is awesome to see right like the big pilot now 42.9 millime little big pilot is what I call it. Uh like I love a 7day Portugueseer right the IWC 7day you always have >> the two but it's just too damn big. Like it's just the one thing like if you made that in 38 or 40 I would own that watch.
No question about it. But that's my only gripe with IWC. Sometimes they could push the boundary with size, but it's really my only knock against the brand.
I think everything else has been fantastic, especially over the last 5 years. I mean, nobody could say anything. Their releases have been phenomenal.
>> What's cool, too, with IWC is is I feel like they're on the cusp here in the United States. And I think that like to really be dominant, you have to have that footing in the US.
>> IWC is a Swiss brand, but they're really a German brand. IWC in Germany is is like what the equivalent of Rolex is here. Germans love IWC. It's a very successful brand in Switzerland. Prior to I would say the last five years, IWC in the United States was really uh you know and if you if you know you know kind of brand. Yeah, >> you know, Connoisseur has always enjoyed the brand, collected the brand, had a few pieces of the brand, but as it's becoming more and more of a household name here in the States, that's really what's going to take them to the next level. And I think they're they're there.
>> Yeah, cuz I think like to the point of Parmesani, their retail partners like us, I I feel like we have a good way of communicating, but especially their CEO.
I mean, Chris Granger is unbelievable at really and he's all over the place.
>> Yeah, he's really all over the place.
They do a great job with marketing. They have a great marketing team, sponsorships, even with F1 and all those kind of different things. They do a phenomenal job marketing themselves.
It's really a matter of time. It's not a matter of if, it's just a matter of when, in my opinion, that they'll really become a cornerstone brand for a lot of collectors.
>> Um, okay. Second pick for you, Rich.
>> Second pick for me. So, this one, you know, there's a lot for me, and I was trying to think of a brand that I really think is there, but just doesn't get the love. And you're probably going to laugh again. Um, but I I think we I have to mention Brigade. I I love their watches. Their history and heritage is the best of any brand. I would put Briay's heritage against Paddock any day of the week.
>> Oh, 100. They destroy Paddock. You can't You can't The only one, >> but I'm using Paddock as like the benchmark.
>> The only competes Vashron because it's older, you know, but it's not more accomplished, you know. It's not You can't say that.
>> Yeah. But I mean to your point earlier, you know, you're gonna take a massive hit on the chin. You're probably gonna be knocked out, >> you know, and I mean for me the the classic is one of my favorite watches. I believe the reference is 5177.
>> The white grand flur dial.
>> Yeah.
>> You know, you could do that recessed uh subsidiary second. I like the center second. That slow sweep the burgers.
>> That's even an offc center seconds, right? Which I think is just a nice little touch.
>> So nice. the burg numerals, everything, the the it's not coin edge, but like the >> Yeah. Yeah. It is. It's like the cold world cases. I mean, everything about that watch to me is >> the lugs being soldered on. I mean, >> of sophistication, class, elegance, being refined, understanding watchmaking and no one cares. I mean, no one cares.
You can I look occasionally. One day I will own that watch. I think on the secondary market, you can find them sometimes as low as like 12 grand.
>> Yeah.
>> Maybe even 10. Yeah. Naked. I mean it it's cheap like it's it's really discounted. I think the retails are what 20 30,000 at least for that watch.
>> The type 20 is beautiful. I mean listen I think that they make great watches and the thing that's crazy is Swatch Group I think does and I mean look at what they've done with Omega you know and what they're doing with Lines you know I just what you have in Brigade. I mean everyone should know that they invented the Torbian. I mean, that should be pounded everywhere, you know, like they're just so bad at telling that story. And I don't know if that level of dress watches, you know, and sophistication resonates with a younger audience. I mean, we have a huge story here. I mean, we have so many brands, so much pre-owned, no one ever comes in and says, "Do you guys carry a brigade?" It hurts my heart. I just think they're such a beautiful watch. I really do.
There is part of the conversation though where people just don't care about traditional watchmaking probably as much as you and I. You know that that's just a reality. Um but I I listen I it's hard to disagree with you. The the problem is with BA is they can't get out of their own way. And you know they make so many I think unwise decisions that just don't make sense to me. You know they made for example a brigade tradition with the retrograde second. I think the reference is like 7057 or something like that.
It's a new 38 millimeter case. Um, you know, but the same kind of retrograde seconds with an automatic uh winding rotor which is really it's actually a spectacularly beautiful watch. Now it has an enamel dial instead of guillosa.
Really beautiful, great size, everything. Okay, those watches, the previous generation of them sell for under 20 grand on the secondary market.
They priced the new one at over 60 and like it's just hard to kind of justify that in the minds of a customer. Like realistically, what's their cost to make that? It's the same movement. All you did was really change the guosa from from a guosa dial to to an enamel dial.
I mean, their cost to make it can be more than 20 25,000. I mean, even if you charge 4045,000 for the watch, you're right in line with a protect philippe calla. I think you're more interesting because you show kind of the guts of the watch all there for somebody to see. The finishing is spectacular. then it's just a matter of preference. You know, at that point you're competing in that price point. But when you're pricing yourself above brands like PC, brands like, you know, even Vashron for example, like a Vashron traditional is 28,000 I think at new retail, which is just a classic kind of uh manual wine watch.
>> Yeah. Like if you compare it to a PC Katraa, it's actually way cheaper than a Katraa. So that's a very competitive offering, you know, but BGEY just totally disproportionately prices their stuff to the point where it's not even competitive anymore. And that's really the issue with Briget in my opinion.
>> But I do want to say this, I'm a sucker for a whimsical dial or moon phases, the face on the moon. And you know, like even in the Horamundi, how it has like the north wind, like the cheeks with the the the wind coming out of the mouth.
Like >> I love that stuff.
>> There's so many little details to fall in love. And to be fair, they're one of the few brands that can say they created that design. Brea numerals, BYE hands. I mean, the Guos dial, he was the first to do it. Enamel dials, he was the first to do it. There's so many different nuances to watch making that Bre is known for.
And again, to your credit, they tell that story so poorly that >> no one even knows this. I mean, if you're a nerd like us, you probably do.
But like, >> yeah, for the masses don't know this.
They don't and they don't care to know because it's not a brand that they that's that's cool. Yeah. Or even like that's there telling the story properly, you know, it just isn't. So I think I think it's a real issue because when you think about it, what's more prestigious that watch, a Brea watch or FPJ? I mean FPJ may be in modern times better, but in terms of a watch maker, you know, they should be like heralded as the top brand, one of the top brands, and they're just not. Even the whole Marian Twinette, like you didn't see any girls looking for that.
>> Yeah. No, there's nothing.
>> Yeah, I know. It's >> there's no juice there, unfortunately.
Um, okay, let's go to my second pick.
Uh, for me, number two is going to be a German brand that I think actually doesn't get enough credit and I think they're actually superior to JLC in my personal opinion for the price point of what you get and that's Glassoot Original. Uh, obviously a lot of people and it's kind of the elephant in the room will tell you that glacute kind of copies or mimics the the design of Langa. I actually totally disagree with that. I think they have a distinct enough design that they're kind of their own thing. And listen, obviously they come in a certain, you know, the same region. They're they're made not that far away from each other.
>> Same block, >> right? It's the same block. So like >> everything in Germany's right there.
>> You could you could really say like every, you know, that's like saying every dive watch looks like a Submariner. That's not fair. You know what I mean? So, that's just my personal take. Uh, but there's so many watches that they make that I absolutely love.
The Pano Inverse I used to own. I probably may own again someday if they go to a smaller size again that it's really the only knock I have against them. But the hand engraved kind of balance that they do, the finishing that they offer and again the designs that they offer for the price point is phenomenal. And again, I don't think that they hit it as well as IWC, but they do have something for everybody. Grand Comps. They have a integrator bracelet sports watch, the the CQ. Now, I think that there's a lapse in people's understanding of what makes that watch or that brand special, but I think they're with with the right storytelling, they could get there, you know, totally do.
>> Very small production, you know, they're very selective with their partners. It's not like a brand you can find everywhere. The finishing is fantastic.
And I think it's not fair to compare them to Longa.
>> Yeah.
>> You know, I mean, and >> half the price, more than half the price.
>> Well, that's what I'm saying. And if you do want to compare them, that's a steal.
>> Yeah.
>> What you're getting at that price point is crazy. And two, if you can't afford a Longa, which I still think's not a fair comparison, you could get a beautiful steel watch from Glacuit, you know, for 10 grand.
>> Yeah.
>> And I mean, the finishing is there. The movements are beautiful. I mean, the wind on them is so nice, you know, >> so crispy. It's it's it's what's a the expression of like overbuilt German, you know, watches overengineered, right?
They're totally overengineered.
>> And what you're getting though, I mean, it's just a watch that looks beautiful on the wrist. I've done, you know, I do that weekly pick of the the week, Rich's pick of the week. I've done uh Glassuta three times and I've loved every watch that I've posted. I'm kind of one of those guys. I can't fake it. If I'm passionate, I do it. Every watch that I post is a watch that I would buy if I had unlimited funds. They just did the annual edition. I mean, even that, you know, every year they'll they'll come up with a color that's special and unique that's in production just for one year.
>> Yeah.
>> I love that.
>> I think that's really cool. Yeah.
>> It's kind of bold for a It's going to sound weird cuz you're like, it's a purple dial. For a German company to do that, it's cool. You know, even when Nomos did a what is it the campus? Yeah.
>> You know, and they did all the the cool colors. Like >> that's so not German. Yeah. It's so cool, you know?
>> That's a very fair point. But yeah, I think again I think they need to make a lot of tweaks. The problem is mostly the the the proportions. That's the one thing I I will say is the biggest knock against them. They can sometimes feel a little too thick and and that's the one thing also German brands I I say the same about Langa. They haven't really mastered casem as well as the Swiss. I think that the cases of Swiss watches are superior to German.
>> It's all the movement.
>> That's just my opinion. Yeah, it's really just the movement that they're focused on. Um but >> what's cool what I like is though, you take a longer, right? The longer one.
And what's everyone say? Turn it over.
That's where it is.
>> They had the ingenuity to do the piano inverse and basically put the 3/4 plate on the dial, which I think is pretty ballsy.
>> Yeah. And that's a distinctly go originality. You can't you can't >> I don't think any I don't know of anyone else that does >> Nobody does something like that, you know.
>> Yeah. So that's that's I mean you got to mention that because even all their kind of higherend stuff all mimic kind of the pano inverse which is just so awesome.
Okay. What's your third pick?
>> O, so third pick, I keep kind of going back and forth what I'm gonna pick, what I'm gonna pick, and I think it'll make sense once I I I talk about it, but I think Longa is still a sleeper brand. I I really do. I think that there's a lot that they're producing and putting out that just does not get the love that it should. I mean, I can talk for two hours about the the longer one, but I think the longer one in particular, I know we talked briefly and you were saying on the secondary market, it's tightening up. The prices >> keep going up. You can't buy them the way that you used to. And you know, >> so that's a good thing. But I do think that that is a watch that people still don't understand how important and disruptive it is and was when it was released in 1994. that asymmetrical dial, the golden ratio, Walter Longa, Gunter Bloom line, you know, resurrected from the ashes when the Berlin Wall came down. There was nothing like that. And I mean, I love that watch. I personally own that watch.
I have the white gold argenta dial. I just think that that watch is still such a sleeper. Retail is very expensive. We had the boutique which now I was gonna say it's probably about 46,000 you know just for >> a non moon face you know I would think a moon I'm making these numbers up I don't know them I would think a moon phase probably 52 to 54 yeah >> for a longo one and this is a longo one 38.5 not a grand longer one um >> I just think that that's an unbelievable watch I think you know even you know vintage longa you know I think that the cabaret is so underrated I think that the arcade is even more underr ated the old Saxamat arguably the best movement long ever produced. You can still get those I feel at a good price.
>> Yeah.
>> Is it expensive? Absolutely.
>> But that's pre-owned what I know. I know. I know. No, no.
>> You know, but I mean I think even just the 1815 the 1815 chronograph, you know, if you're not when I say a nerd, you'll like a real nerd. Like, well, look at the Paddic Chrono and this Chrono and that Chrono. I just think the general public understands that Long is an important brand, so they kind of hold it in some regard, >> but they don't mean it. They're just saying it because they have to say it. I still think that >> that brand could really blow up. And I think their releases in the last few years at Watches and Wonders have been pretty >> important, monumental, putting a grand comp out there. I They're a powerhouse, man.
>> Yeah.
>> I mean, that I don't even remember what it was. the Lumen this year it's like 600,000 they sold 50 in a day at watches and >> wonders and that's the crazy part is is that's their one drawback like what's a Zywork date now 130,000 so expensive >> and that's that's the real drawback of along is the price have just gone absolutely crazy but people are still buying them so like I mean why can't they charge it if they're still selling you know I will say this there's one universal language in collecting watches and you know what that is everybody knows quality when they see it and there's one thing you hand denies like when you turn a longer watch over you know instantly this is a really high quality watch and you can compare it to every brand. I think that the way that they finish their watches, German silver, blue, blue screws, the the gold chatons, everything is such a distinct design language that screams I'm a high quality watch maker more than any other brand. More than Bre, more than Paddock, more than Vashron. From there, it's an aesthetics, but I think nobody can deny like to get an entry-level Saxonia pre-owned, right? under 20,000. It's an unbelievable amount of handwork that goes into a watch like that for the price point of like a a GMT Master 2.
You know, you're getting a Batgirl basically. Yeah.
>> Like you can't compare those two watches in terms of like handwork and like time to make it.
>> I mean, it's just unbelievable. I couldn't agree more. Like their their quality even at retail >> like I know the price point is high. It is a very expensive watch, but the quality is there and you can't deny that.
>> I think so.
>> Yeah. Okay. My third my third pick, you know, I was going to pick Line, but I think it's a bit of a copout. I'm going to change my answer because, you know, Tutor, Line, Omega, they're kind of easy answers. Everybody kind of mentions them. I'm gonna mention a brand that we are an authorized dealer for, but not the kind of sister or brother company for it, and that's Chopart. So, we're an authorized dealer for Chopart, but I think one brand that's actually very underrated is the Luc Show brand.
>> Oh, yeah.
>> I would die to have like us be an authorized dealer for Luc Show.
>> Stunning watches.
>> Amazing. You know, we we talked about last video I said the kind of hallmark of a really great brand is reliability.
One thing about LUC Chopart is every single watch is chronometer certified.
That's unbelievable for a watch maker at that level to do chronometer certification. Everything has Geneva seal. Everything is finished to the nines and they do everything. Grand complications from minute repeaters to perpetual calendars, perpetual calendar chronographs. And again, hallmark of a really great brand is doing something very simple, very well executed. And the kind of time only stuff that they make is just to die for. I absolutely love that brand. Only 2,000 watches per year.
>> I was going to say super super small.
>> Very very small. Kind of like Longo, you know, they're very, very niche watch maker and the price point is just right.
You know, $30,000 for example for like an LU1860.
Again, it's not cheap, but nothing is anymore. And at that level of quality with the chronometer certification, I think it's a lot of bang per buck.
>> I couldn't agree more. Very hard to get.
>> Very hard.
>> Very, >> very, very hard.
>> You know, they only have a handful of watches. They have some long relationships. I mean, small family-owned business again.
>> And there's very few retailers, too.
Like my friend out in Boston uh just got their his status is LU Show. I'm super jealous. Like I would love I would die for us to be an Luc Show. It' be awesome. We would sell the heck out of that brand, >> right?
>> Yeah.
>> And we have the clients for that.
>> 100%.
>> Luc, >> if you're watching, give us a call 100%.
Please do.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah. That would be fantastic.
>> I think it's just such an exceptional brand. The quality is there. The rarity is there. Um, you know, the price point is great. Everything about that brand and you don't see many many people talking about them. I really think that's a brand. Give them another 5 to 10 years. They have the right storytelling. You know, Carl Frederick Schua, I'm probably butchering his name, is a great storyteller. his son is actually very interested. So, it looks like it's gonna keep you stay in the family, which is very that's very important. You know, it's something that is underrated, you know, is the the lineage of the brand. Will it keep going? So, I think they're going to do a lot more damage in the coming years, and there's no denying that they're an amazing watch brand. I think really really undervalued for what they are.
Well, guys, if you enjoyed this video, please be sure to like the video, subscribe for more videos like this in the future. Of course, let us know down in the comments below. We do read the comments. We heard by popular demand you guys wanted to hear our top three picks for underrated watch. So if you want any topics on the podcast, please let us know in the comments below. Rich, thank you so much for joining. Always a pleasure.
>> Always.
>> And don't roast us too hard. Let us know what you want to see next. Thanks guys.
Thank you.
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