The Medieval Skeleton Hidden Inside This Welsh Church

[00:00:04]Hi all, AD here from Honest and John's.

[00:00:07]As always, thank you so much for clicking on the video. I'm in deepest, darkest Wales, North Wales, and I'm on the Isle of Anglesey. And I've just come across this church. We saw the spire in the distance. I don't know anything about it. I'm afraid don't even know its name yet, so let's go and explore.

[00:00:29]Today, I'm visiting one of Anglesey's most fascinating churches.

[00:00:34]Tucked away [music] in the peaceful countryside near the island's rugged northeast coast. This is Saint Elian's Church at Llangelyn.

[00:00:44]Apologies if I've said that incorrectly.

[00:00:47]My Welsh pronunciation is awful, so I just thought I'd apologize in advance.

[00:00:53]Now, this beautiful church has [music] been at the center of Christian worship for about 1,500 years. And at first glance, it might seem like just another old Welsh parish church. But the longer I spent here, the more extraordinary it [music] became.

[00:01:11]There's legends of saints and kings here, medieval artwork, and it has somehow survived the centuries. And this church is packed [music] with history in almost every corner.

[00:01:23]And there was loads of stuff for sale here, which is great to see. So, the church obviously has a very [music] active local community.

[00:01:36]According to tradition, Saint Elian himself arrived here during the 5th century. And the story tells us that he was sent by the Pope [music] to Anglesey as an emissary to King Cadwallon Lawhir.

[00:01:51]Again, I've probably said that completely wrong. But as the legend goes, Elian traveled with a number of oxen, but the king seized them for himself. And the [music] saint responded by striking the king blind before offering to restore his sight if the king granted him as much land as a stag could cover whilst being chased by hounds.

[00:02:15]The king agreed and his sight was restored and Saint Elian established this church on the land that had been given to him sometime around the year 450.

[00:02:26]So, whether every detail of this story is true, it's impossible to know, but like so many stories surrounding the Celtic saints, history and legends are woven together. And these tales help explain why this place became [music] sacred and why generations of people continue to visit it long after the saint [music] himself has gone.

[00:02:50]The church has this magnificent 15th century oak rood screen >> [music] >> and it's to be one of the finest surviving examples on Anglesey. And in medieval times, this would have separated the [music] nave where the congregation sat from the chancel where the altar was and all the services were conducted. And taking a closer look at it, you'll notice traces of the original medieval paint [music] and above the doorway here is the most striking image, a painted [music] skeleton carrying a scythe accompanied by the Welsh words meaning "Sin is the sting of death." Now, many rood screens completely disappeared during the Reformation or during later Victorian alterations, but somehow this beautiful example survived.

[00:03:49]These are 17th century carved wooden pews.

[00:03:55]Aren't they beautiful? And there's also over here on the wall, it was very difficult to see. Apologies again [music] because of the light from the stained window above the altar there, but there's some remnants of some wall paintings there. And if you want some more information, please do pause and have a look here.

[00:04:44]I love this view walking back out through the pews.

[00:04:49]And you can see some of the carving marks in the wood still. Absolutely beautiful.

[00:04:55]And they have this rather stunning light fitting.

[00:05:00]So, it's in like two sections. There was no date that I could find for it.

[00:05:06]And it's like there's a hand there holding the bottom section of the lights. Absolutely beautiful.

[00:05:13]And a beautiful wooden ceiling there as well.

[00:05:16]And I'm just going to show you the other side of the magnificent rood screen and the gallery.

[00:05:24]It's amazing, isn't it? All these centuries later.

[00:05:30]And I'm sure that would have been painted as well. It must have looked absolutely magnificent.

[00:05:39]There was loads of these A4 laminated sheets, which obviously somebody has rather painstakingly [music] produced with loads of information about stuff that's inside the church.

[00:05:54]So, if you do want more information, please do pause and read. Obviously, I couldn't show you everything. There was a lot going on there.

[00:06:02]I personally I've mentioned this before.

[00:06:05]Sometimes I get a little bit overwhelmed um [music] by the information when I go in. Personally for me, it's not a criticism of anybody or the person or people who've put work into this. It's much appreciated. But personally, less is more for me. So, [music] a little um sign saying what something is very briefly personally works better for me.

[00:06:30]But each [music] to their own. We They can't please everyone. And that altar is from 1654.

[00:06:42]Another little surprise awaiting me inside this lovely church was St. Elian's Chapel. Now, it's connected to the church today by a narrow covered passage. But originally, it stood completely on its own. In fact, the chapel is older than the nave and the chancel, dating from around the late 13th or early 14th century.

[00:07:07]And there's a lovely little model of it there. Now, many historians believe it occupies or at least very closely marks the site of St. Elian's original place of worship. Isn't that fantastic? And there was loads of memorials in here.

[00:07:28]Some more legible than others.

[00:07:30]And if when we go into the actual chapel itself, um it even has its own little bell cot. So, although the uh has long since disappeared, It's a reminder that this wasn't just an extra room added on to the church. It once functioned as a separate chapel in its own right before eventually becoming a link to the larger parish church.

[00:07:55]But, what's even more interesting is that this little building became one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in North Wales.

[00:08:07]This beautiful ancient stone font is believed to have come from the earlier Norman church. And in here were some maybe they were ledge ledger stones or um grave markers, but that one at the top there, look. Somebody's very crudely written on there, "Taken from chancel in 1913." [music] And I love these. I remember these from my childhood. I have a very vivid memory of going to graveyards when I was a child and seeing those. There was no information, I'm afraid, about those particular ones.

[00:08:47]And again, there was lots of information on display here, but they look like parish receipts.

[00:08:57]Totally overloaded for me, but please do pause and read if you're interested. [music] As I'd already mentioned, this little building became one of the most important pilgrimage destinations [music] in North Wales. Now, for many centuries, people traveled here seeking the help of Saint Elian. [music] Some came hoping for healing from illness, while others sought forgiveness, blessings, or comfort during difficult times. Now, pilgrimage was a huge part of medieval religious life, and Saint Elian developed a reputation as a saint whose prayers could bring comfort and healing. And I'm not sure what this actual piece is.

[00:09:47]Couldn't find out. Looks very old, whatever it was. But what is remarkable is this wooden altar inside the [music] chapel. It's particularly interesting because it was actually built as a shrine. And according to local tradition, there were once removable wooden panels on either side. Now when these were taken away, they created an opening >> [music] >> allowing sick pilgrims to squeeze through beneath the shrine. And it was believed that by passing through in faith, they might receive healing through the intercession of Saint Elian.

[00:10:21][music] Isn't that fascinating? And there's an old medieval doorway there.

[00:10:28]An ancient uh bier where they would have carried the coffins [music] into the church for the service before people were laid to rest. And if you want to pause this, you can read about the vestry door graffiti which was found [music] in 2002.

[00:10:49]And on the inside of the door, they found loads of ships.

[00:10:56]Look at all those. All graffitied onto the door. It's great that they've actually put it on display, isn't it?

[00:11:08]Whether miracles actually occurred here is something history can't answer. But what's beyond doubt is that people [music] believed, and generation after generation made the journey here, often traveling long distances on foot, carrying with them hopes, worries, and prayers, much like many visitors do today.

[00:11:32]Also kept again I'm going to apologize for my awful Welsh pronunciation, is Sif Elian. And that is a massive oak chest that was reinforced with iron bands and it dates from 1667.

[00:11:48]Now pilgrims would have placed their offerings through narrow slots cut into the top, leaving donations to support the shrine and the church. It's an incredibly simple object yet it provides a direct connection with the countless people who came here over hundreds of years. And I'm just standing here imagining the number of hands that would have touched [music] the chest. Each visitor leaving behind not just a coin, but perhaps a prayer or a hope for somebody that they loved.

[00:12:23]Sadly this piece is no longer on display here, but there was a very large pair of wooden tongs. Now, in centuries gone by, villagers often brought their dogs with them to church. Now most would have sat quietly, but occasionally one would become rather too enthusiastic.

[00:12:42]Rather than chasing it round the church, the church wardens would have used these oversized wooden tongs to gently escort the offending dog back outside. [music] And it's one of those wonderfully human little details that reminds us these weren't museum buildings and they were the heart of everyday community life.

[00:13:03]And everyday life sometimes included >> [music] >> a noisy dog. But let's step outside now and have a look around the churchyard where we'll find yet another layer of history.

[00:13:28]Generations of local families are buried here.

[00:13:32]Many of these gravestones are now so completely weathered that their inscriptions have disappeared almost completely.

[00:13:41]While others still tell the stories of farmers, sailors, craftsmen, and the ordinary people who spent their lives in this beautiful corner of Anglesey.

[00:13:54]There's also the remains of an ancient [music] churchyard cross.

[00:13:58]Another reminder that this has been a sacred place for many centuries.

[00:14:04]But what I love most about churches like this is that they preserve the history on a human scale.

[00:14:12]And like I've said before, the history books and the academics focus on the kings, the queens, the battles, the politics.

[00:14:20]Where I just like hearing about the lives of the ordinary people.

[00:14:26]This would have been where people were baptized, where couples would have exchanged their wedding vows, and families would have gathered in grief to say goodbye to their loved ones, and where generations would have come together for Christmas, Easter, and harvest celebrations.

[00:14:46]And to think about all the things this church has witnessed.

[00:14:51]The rise and fall of Welsh princes, the arrival of the Normans, Reformation, the English Civil War, Victorian Britain, and then all of those who lost their lives in the [music] two World Wars.

[00:15:07]But through all those centuries, the church has remained here quietly serving its community.

[00:15:40]>> I'm going to wrap the video up here. I really do hope you enjoyed our visit to this beautiful church on the island [music] of Anglesey in Northwest. And if you did enjoy today's video, if you could please hit the like, subscribe, the heart button, the notification bell down below. Doesn't cost [music] a penny, but it really helps the channel out. It helps more than you know, and I appreciate each >> [music] >> and every one of you. So, I shall see you for the next one. Bye for now.