Triumph Daytona 675 to 765 Conversion! With Race ECU!!!

Added: 2026-06-01

[00:00:04][music] >> Hello and welcome to the Palmer Performance YouTube channel. In this video, we're going to take a look at a Triumph Daytona 675 and what needs to be done to convert it to run a 765 engine uh including retaining the blipper and such like from 765. It's becoming quite a common thing to do as uh 675 engines become older, more tired, they break down and such like. So, thought it might be of interest to you lot. Right, let's take a look and talk you through how we got to where we are today.

[00:00:38]So, what we have here is a sort of 2013 onwards Triumph Daytona 675R.

[00:00:44]Um this came in with a running problem.

[00:00:47]It wasn't running right it and it got to the point where it wasn't even starting.

[00:00:51]Uh so, it was our job to kind of assess what was wrong with it and quickly found out that cylinder number two had no compression. So, kind of gave the customer the bad news on that point of view and obviously with the age of the engines and stuff now and it's starting to get harder to get parts, suggested it may be an idea to uh you know, kind of upgrade to a newer engine and such like.

[00:01:13]And this is something we've done quite a lot now. Um the 765 engines are just really nice, you know, strong talky engine that you can kind of pick up for reasonable money and uh they'll bolt straight in the older chassis and you just basically got to sort out the electronics around them.

[00:01:30]Now, there's a few things we can talk about here. So, we could put a 765 engine in this and keep it running on the Daytona electronics. So, that would be with the cable operated Daytona throttle bodies and everything um and then we would have to remap the Daytona ECU to suit, lower the rev limit because the 765 engine doesn't rev as high and just tweak a few bits and pieces. Now, that is one way of doing it.

[00:01:57]The other way of doing it is converting it over to 765 electronics. Now, you can do that. You could use the road electronics, but it kind of gets a bit messy. You end up having to run an ABS pump because you can't remove it. They get upset. You have to find a 765 dash, which can be expensive. They use CAN bus based switch gears, which are also quite expensive. Loads of silly little bits and pieces.

[00:02:20]So, what we're going to do with this one is actually run it on an ECU system called SCS Delta. Now, our very good friend John at Track Electronics, who yeah, we do a lot of dyno work over there and John does a lot of mapping for me.

[00:02:35]He's developed this system along with SCS who make the ECUs into a really nice little kit for the Triumphs. And the beauty of it is it's not silly money.

[00:02:46]You can pretty much run any dash you like on it. You can run any switch gears you like, and it's kind of a really good way of kind of getting all the functionality of like a racing ECU, but also having the blipper and stuff. So, that's the route we're going down. So, what we've had to do is buy a 765 engine, which we got, you know, just from a breaker with a couple of thousand miles on it. That's the old engine. We'll talk about those in a minute.

[00:03:11]And then from the same breaker, we got a set of drive by wire throttle bodies.

[00:03:16]So, they got the servo motor there.

[00:03:19]But essentially, they look the same as a 675 throttle body. They all fit the same. They just got obviously the servo motor to drive it.

[00:03:25]An important thing when changing from a 675 to a 765, they don't rev as high, so we have to change the gearing.

[00:03:32]Generally like 1543 or 1646 seems to work for everything, so that's what we've got here.

[00:03:39]Now, obviously cuz we've gone drive by wire, we also need a different throttle.

[00:03:42]So, this is a 765 throttle, which is obviously electronic.

[00:03:48]And then the other thing we also need is a donor wiring loom. So, the kit that John makes needs a Daytona wiring loom to start with.

[00:03:57]And we'll give that to John. He'll strip it out, do the various mods and stuff for it to run the SES ECU.

[00:04:04]Now, because the SES ECU is kind of all completely customizable, we can kind of pick and choose what we want to do with it. So, um we're going to retain the standard Daytona 675 switch for on, off, and start. I've got just a very cheap generic switch so that we can have uh two maps and a pit limiter operated off that. Now, John has has been developing traction control and uh launch control systems and stuff. So, and that's the beauty of the SES, you can expand it, you can do different things with it. Um but also, you know, another beauty of the SES is we can actually keep running the standard Daytona clock, which um John will wire up to suit.

[00:04:47]Uh and then that obviously keeps costs down. We've not got to replace it with an expensive 765 dash, which is TFT and they're hard to come by. These things are pretty cheap. And then obviously the other alternative is that you don't run a Daytona dash or Triumph dash, you could run like an Aim data logging dash or something like that. So, that's all pretty straightforward. We'll get the loom and everything that John brings sorted out. And whilst we're waiting for him to sort that out, we'll work on the engines. Now, you might think, "Well, what have you got to do to the engine?"

[00:05:15]Well, if you I know this one's upside down, but if you look at the Daytona engine, it has a uh let's get this right way round. It's a left-handed sump. So, the deep bit of the sump is like on the left-hand side, and the exhaust runs through the right-hand side. Now, Triumph, for whatever reason, decided with the Street Triples that they were going to have the exhaust running down the left-hand side and the sump on the right-hand side, so the opposite way round.

[00:05:42]So, you've then got this issue with like, "Right, okay, what do you do?"

[00:05:46]Do you swap the exhaust over?

[00:05:49]Um you know, and get another exhaust, but well, we we've got a lovely full race system sitting over there. Um titanium race system that came off the Daytona engine, so we want to retain that. So, our first job before we put that engine in that chassis is to swap the sumps over.

[00:06:06]>> [clears throat] >> You may also notice that this Supersport engine, cuz it was quite a high-spec motor, um it had been raced for some years, um has got an oil cooler on it. Now, we don't really need that for the 765 engine. They don't rev as high. Um it's not going to be as highly stressed. So, we are just going to leave that as is.

[00:06:28]It will probably become uh ornament made into a coffee table or something, I don't know. So, um yeah, so we'll leave that as is.

[00:06:36]We'll retain the standard heat exchanger that the 765 engine has.

[00:06:41]Um and then the radiator that was on the bike is kind of a bigger one, which does join up to the oil cooler, but we can make a bracket for that, um and that'll be all sweet. So, enough talking. Let's get the camera set up for hyperlapse, and we'll do the sump swaps.

[00:07:03]>> [music] [music] >> So, here we've got the old engine and the old sump, and the new 765 engine and new sump. Um the 765 sump will bolt back onto the 675 engine just as in one piece and can be done whatever with. Now, this is where you can sort of see the difference between two sumps coming out the other side, so 675 engine, pickup >> [snorts] >> is on this side. 765 engine, it's actually near the middle, to be fair, but obviously the uh the main part of it is off to that side. And you'll notice also this um it's like a return pipe um from the sort of gearbox area. You'll notice that's also different as well.

[00:08:03]They have on these newer 2023 onwards engines, they've changed this arrangement here with the pressure relief valve. So, there's an oil pressure relief valve down there, whereas on these earlier engines, your pressure relief valve is part of this sort of oil feed pipe here. Um but the only bit we need to change over is that bit and that bit, and obviously the sump itself. So, we'll get them unbolted, cleaned up, and swapped over. So, here I'm just putting a new sump gasket on and transferring the Daytona oil pickup.

[00:08:34]Obviously using Loctite on the bolts and talking it up, and you'll see I've just poured some oil down the oil pickup there just to kind of pre-prime the oil pump itself, and then topped up the sump.

[00:08:44]With that done, we can get the motor into the chassis, and luckily my uh friend Callum was here to give me a hand to get the engine lifted. They're a little bit different, these. You have to put the front in first, and then pull the back up. So, um my normal hoist doesn't work as well.

[00:08:58]There you see, I'm just doing the engine bolts, and on the 765 and 675, they have like a thrust adjuster on the left-hand side of the frame that you have to uh set. I'm just putting the jack under the engine there just to get it in the right place to get the bolts in.

[00:09:14]Get those front one in front ones in and all talked up.

[00:09:23]And the rear ones as well.

[00:09:29]With that done, we can fit the start looking at fitting the exhaust.

[00:09:32]This is a full titanium race exhaust, and the way the manifolds work, they need a bit of sealant on them. So, we're just assembling them there.

[00:09:41]We'll get them on.

[00:09:42]Get it all bolted up.

[00:09:45]And that'll have plenty of time for the sealant to go off between now and when we actually fire the bike up for the first time.

[00:09:59]Now, whilst we're waiting for the wiring loom, there's still plenty of things I can fit that won't get in the way. So, we'll get the big race rad on, cleaning up parts as we go, getting the radiator hoses on and connected up.

[00:10:11]And then, like I said previously, we won't be fitting the oil cooler. So, we can sort out the little bracket for the right-hand side.

[00:10:23]I'm also getting the clutch cable connected ready as well.

[00:10:29]And get the throttle bodies popped in.

[00:10:34]I always find with the triumphs that, especially with an aftermarket hose kit, the top coolant hose is always very tight between the frame and the throttle bodies. That's why you can see me sort of messing around with the positioning a bit there.

[00:10:47]And there we go, just sorting out a little bracket just hold the radiator in place on the right-hand side.

[00:10:53]A pre-filled new oil filter to get on.

[00:10:59]Torque that up, get some lock wire on it.

[00:11:10]Just putting a drilled bolt in to use as a lock wire point for the sump bolt and for the oil filter.

[00:11:23]And then, we can also start thinking about changing the chain and sprockets.

[00:11:26]So, just buzz the standard sprocket off.

[00:11:29]Put the new one on loosely for the time being.

[00:11:32]Buzz the stand the rear one off and put the new one on there. Get that torqued up. Get it thrown in and then we can set the chain adjustment.

[00:11:40]Now, I'll set this a little on the loose side cuz obviously it's going to go on the dyno and then obviously we'll recheck it after it's dynoed when the engine may have settled in the chassis and everything's kind of bedded in.

[00:11:53]Just setting the chain adjusters there, torquing up rear wheel.

[00:11:56]We can do up the front nut now.

[00:12:02]And bend over the tab washer.

[00:12:04]And a bit of fresh lube.

[00:12:07]Whilst we're at it, we'll get the oil filled up as well so that's one less thing to worry about when we get the wiring loom back from John.

[00:12:14]I'll just take it off the stand there to check the level.

[00:12:21]And get the new electronic throttle fitted, which does require a small hole drilled in the handlebar for location purposes.

[00:12:37]And that is pretty much it until we get the wiring loom from John. So, I've left the coolant out of it for the time being. So, left the rad cap off so that I don't forget. Oil [snorts] is sort of pre-filled. We'll obviously have to check that once we fire it. We will prime this engine but we'll do it by taking the plugs out and cranking it over, which again we'll do once we get the wiring loom on and so we can crank it, make sure it's primed properly.

[00:13:01]But yeah, that's the the brunt of it really. It's not really too big a job to fit the wiring loom.

[00:13:06]There's not a lot to them.

[00:13:09]Um which you'll see when we get it back from John.

[00:13:15]And we have a wiring loom.

[00:13:18]Which I've fitted.

[00:13:21]It's a lovely simple loom that John does.

[00:13:24]And there are quite a few options with it. So, we are keeping the 675 clocks, the specialist components ECU that John supplies and can be made to talk to the standard clocks. So, the rev counter, temp gauge, and all that sort of jazz, gear position indicator all works. There is also the option to run something like an Aim data logging dash through the CAN bus, so that's all good. We've got our switch gear on here. That's going to be the pit button. That's going to be the map button.

[00:13:50]Obviously, the electronic throttle is all plugged in down here.

[00:13:54]The ECU just sort of sits there. Um there's a few things that obviously kind of change and have to move going from um these electronics to uh you know, from the standard 675. Let's just get that comms lead out the way.

[00:14:11]So, like the starter relay normally would sit where the ECU now is.

[00:14:17]So, that's been moved up the back and there's a couple of relays and stuff that we just had to kind of Velcro or cable tie into place, which is fine, but it's very neat and tidy. It's very minimal, nice, simple race loom.

[00:14:30]We have got a Translogic um quick shifter blipper sensor on there, which is obviously wired up to the ECU. These are the 765 throttle bodies, so we're retaining blipper. And that brings us on to another point. So, we could have with this bike, we could have just put the 765 engine in, ran it on the electronics that were already on it. Um the Daytona electronics obviously would have to reduce the RPM limit um because the Daytonas rev to like 15, these only rev to like 13,000 RPM.

[00:15:03]So, we'd have to reduce the rev limit and do some mapping. Um but obviously we wouldn't get a blipper then and that was kind of one of the things we wanted to do with this bike was have a blipper.

[00:15:14]Um so, that was why we went this route with John from Track Electronics um SCS Delta ECU package and wiring and the 765 throttle bodies. And that brings us on to another little thing. So, there's always little bits and pieces um when you do these builds that you kind of have to bear in mind. So, this is the 675 airbox. Now, if we try and fit that, it won't fit because there is a big servo motor there and they don't have the cutout for it. So, if this is something you're looking to do, you will need a 765 airbox.

[00:15:51]Um one cuz it has this extra bit here which obviously fits around the servo.

[00:15:56]Airboxes and air filters are slightly different as well. So, you with the 765 airbox, you really need a 765 air filter. Um Yeah, that's about that really. We're going to run these nice sort of mid-length uh stacks which are the Daytona standard ones. They always seem to quite work quite well. And then another thing that we're adding to this, um this bike didn't have rear wheel speed sensor on it because of what it was being used for.

[00:16:24]Um the race ECU and stuff that it had didn't run wheel speed sensors. So, um what we have got is we've got a second hand speed ring to go on the rear wheel and then we've got a speed sensor which will go in there. We just have to make sure that we set the clearance on the ring when we do that. Um that's obviously got to get plugged into the SCS ECU and uh that's what will enable us to have a pit limiter and uh various other bits and pieces. So, all good really. Uh we will get the airbox on. I've already primed it. So, I pulled the plugs out, cranked it until the oil pressure light went off and until the cam chain tensioner stopped clacking cuz these are kind of like a hybrid cam chain tensioner.

[00:17:09]They're they're spring-loaded but also work on hydraulic pressure. So, you'll find with these if they've sat up for a for a or they've not got oil in them. Um they will clack on initial start until the oil pressure builds up and the cam chain tensioner gets full pressure on it.

[00:17:27]So, yeah. Right, let's get the airbox on.

[00:17:34]Airbox on, bellmouths in.

[00:17:38]Little bit of a tight squeeze sometimes these.

[00:17:50]Slot the air filter in.

[00:17:52]Pop the lid on. We're just going to have to borrow the intake temperature sensor, air temperature sensor out of the 675 airbox lid cuz the 765 one did not come with one.

[00:18:03]There's also with the SES electronics it doesn't use the map sensor. So, that pipe of the throttle bodies has to be blocked off, which is what I'm just doing there.

[00:18:17]Drive coolant systems are a bit of a pain. You need to top it up, lean it over, and repeatedly top it up until you can get no more coolant in to make sure you get all the air out.

[00:18:27]And we're just popping the baffle out for the initial dyno work.

[00:18:33]So, that's oil level checked, tank on, primed.

[00:18:37]Coolant topped up.

[00:18:39]Let's go for a start, I suppose.

[00:18:53]Mhm, not a good start.

[00:19:01]Hey.

[00:19:46]>> The lights are on at my home.

[00:20:17]So there we go. One up and running 765 conversion.

[00:20:22]Now what we've got to do is run it over to John at Track Electronics. We'll have a chat with him about the ECU and what it can and can't do. We have got to make a little charging harness which John was waiting for the connector for because the 675 regulator rectifier connectors are different than what comes out of the 765 engine. So let's head over there and get this thing on the dyno.

[00:21:28]>> And there we have it. 1765 map top and ready to go. Um we have put the baffle in and mapped it on the bottom. So, the bottom what we've done is baffle in button in baffle out, button out, pretty simple.

[00:21:43]Obviously, we tested the pit limiter that's set at 50 K's. It's all good.

[00:21:47]And if we look here, this is a dyno graph.

[00:21:49]The red is what a 765 engine makes, 100 30 horsepower, nearly 58 ft lb of torque. And the blue is the old engine that was in this bike when it was still healthy, which was a 675 supersport engine. As you can see, the peak horsepower is a similar ratio. It was 127 back then. Um obviously, the 765 being a longer stroke engine and such like, everything happens earlier. But you sort of look at the torque. There, you've got like an extra 10 ft lb um in the lower end of stuff.

[00:22:18]Um just such a easy thing to ride with all that torque. So, yeah, really happy with the results. We'll uh get the rest of the bike bolted back together, send him on his way.

[00:22:29]Um this is the SESECU software.

[00:22:33]We'll have a little deeper look in that when we get back to the workshop.

[00:22:39]So, we're back at the workshop. We've just got a couple of little things to tidy up on. The expansion bottle that was on this bike actually had a hole in it, so it was weeping fluid out. What we're going to do is replace that with an HRC 250 mil one and one of my 3D printed bottle holders, um which you can order by messaging me through Instagram or Facebook Marketplace or via WhatsApp or whatever. And what we'll do is we'll just bolt that bolt that on the side there and run a new bit of hose. Obviously, always remember the point of these header bolts isn't as an overflow, it's fluid recovery. So, any coolant that expands in here needs to be able to get sucked back out again.

[00:23:20]So, the pipe that we'll put in here will go all the way to the bottom with a slight angle cut on the end of it, and we'll make sure there's sort of 100 mil fluid sitting in there as it is. So, we'll get that sorted.

[00:23:31]Now, obviously, the excuse my phone going off in the background. The other bonus of converting this bike over to the SCS electronics is that we now have a blipper on it, which means we can put a handbrake on it. So, that is what we are doing. I haven't got the hose for it yet. We won't worry about that. You've seen me fit things like that before.

[00:23:50]But, essentially, that'll be connected up to the rear brake so they can use the handbrake.

[00:23:55]And actually, the setup on here, the clutch is still pretty usable.

[00:24:00]Just the how everything sits is pretty good. And that's another beauty of having a small switch gear.

[00:24:05]Obviously, I'll put a label on here for pit and map.

[00:24:10]And [snorts] that's, you know, that's such a nice little cheap solution. And that was one of the reasons why John came up with with these SCS ECU kits because the 765s use like a can bus switch gear, and they're quite a bulky and expensive thing. And it's the same with a lot of these other bikes like the R7s and R9s and things like that. So, John and SCS who make the ECUs are doing a lot of these kits now for different bikes because, you know, for example, with with the standard switch gears, if you have a crash and damage one, they could be like 500 quid for a switch gear.

[00:24:43]And a lot of the functions on them are unnecessary for racing anyway. So, when you got a nice simplified ECU system like this, you know, couple of buttons, job's a dream, nothing expensive to replace. So, the final thing we'll do is just move on to the software and it's uh you know, it's a free software that's downloadable from um from the SCS website and it's ever so easy to use. And even the ECU comms lead for it, if you think of race kit ECUs like Honda ones and the Kawasaki ones, just the comms leads for them can be like 800 quid, which is crazy. Uh I believe the comms lead for these is something like 108 lb plus VAT, so pretty reasonable, really. Um and you know, it it is if you have a look there, you can see we've got such a range of adjustments and functions, which obviously most of you guys won't need to worry about. Um the base map that comes in them that John puts in is very good. And with [snorts] a standard engine will work great straight out the uh out the box, but it has all sorts of Yeah, because it is an ECU that can be used on everything, it is infinitely expandable, you know, there's boost control on there if you wanted to run a turbocharged bike. Obviously, we've got all the controls for uh for gear shift, for the um for the blipper and rev matching and upshift cut and and the different uh parameters for that. Um Yeah, it's it's it's a pretty trick thing, really.

[00:26:13]Um you know, we're we're not really with this bike using sort of all the features of it, but that's kind of not the point, really. Um you can sort of have uh rudimentary launch control and traction control with it now, that's what John's uh working on at the moment. Um but it's just a brilliant setup, really, and just an easy way to get away from you know, having to have uh the immobilizer set up cuz the the 765 standard electronics, obviously, you have to run the ABS pump, you have to run the standard key and immobilizer cuz even with a Woolich flash, you can't turn them off. There's all sorts of compromises, really. Um aside from having the sort of the standard big expensive switch gears, which don't really lend themselves to being fitted on race handlebars and those sorts of things. And also [snorts] with the SCS, the outputs from the ECU, you know, we we could put on here a full aim data logging dash upgrade and and and change it.

[00:27:06]Yeah, there's all sorts of options, really. So, I hope you guys have kind of found this project interesting. This bike will be heading out to Spa in a couple of weeks for some track day fun.

[00:27:19]And we will see you on the next one.

[00:27:30]>> [music]