When renovating bathroom plumbing, proper pipe routing requires maintaining adequate fall (slope) for waste pipes, using appropriate fittings like tees, elbows, and reducers, and carefully routing pipes through joists while preserving structural integrity; key techniques include using core drills for clean holes, press-fit or solder connections, and considering the specific toilet system configuration when planning pipe placement.
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PLUMBING DAY IN THE BATHROOMAñadido:
Right. Morning, guys. So, back in the bathroom. Today, we're going to sort out the plumbing. So, one of the first jobs we got to do is lift some of these floorboards up and uh expose some uh roots that we can make. My thinking is so obviously we're going to make that hole bigger to the floor. Well, then we can take out at least potentially two of those boards. And then rather than route it back around the outside. So, I'm just going to come straight through the middle. So, I can come straight through the middle. So, the cold feed can come here, go straight onto that one. Then, that'll be done. Then the cold return from the tank can come down through here, tea into there, and then come across again, and then bend into there.
And then the hot again straight through link into that one to send the hot back downstairs and then come across and link into our basin. Pretty straightforward with the condense pipe from the boiler which is what's going into this particular pipe here. So that's linking to the condents on a uh trap in the other room. So, what I'm thinking is once them coppers are out the way and that copper's gone, we can then lift the floor there, we can then drill through the joist and or even just notch potentially notch it. Bring a new condens pipe through here through that old duck through the old lines where the pipes are through to about here somewhere down straight out and straight into the side of the um soil stack. That way then the pipe's still inside. It doesn't need a trap and it's all under under the ground under the floor. Then that's that one done. the waste for the basin. Again, we're probably going to core straight out the wall and link in with a new pipe. And then the existing waste, which is there, we're just going to bring along along the floor here and then straight into the shower trap. So, that's the general plan or plan of attack anyway cuz we can get a nice fall going that way. The only thing we do have to bear in mind if I do that is the trap we've got coming is literally there's the joist there. Trap's going to sit there.
So I may have to rethink how I'm going to bring the pipe through cuz I won't if I bring the pipe through like that but here then I'm beginning knocking out a big chunk out of the uh joist. We don't want that.
That's something I got to think about the the waste for that. But we need to get a better better one than that. That needs to be better than that. That is ridiculous. There's no fall on that.
We've got to get a fall. So even if I come across here and go through one, two, three joists and then return it to the trap that way. But we'll sort that out. Priority at the moment is to get the water sorted out and then we can crack on. So, first job, shut the water off and then we can start lifting some boards and start modifying some pipe work. Let's get started. Okay, so we've now got all the pipe work cut out. I've labeled everything.
So, as you can see here, they're all cut out and they are literally just sitting like the pipes are just sitting up there. You can get you on them.
What's going on here?
There we go. So, you can see got one there, one there, and one there. So, you got hot, cold down, and mains feed there. And I've actually written it on the wall right here. Cold feed, cold, hot, so I know what's what.
And then over here we've got that's a H down. I've written on that.
And I've already cut the mains feed. I haven't press fitted any of these yet.
So that pipe's going to come across here underneath there, go on there, and then up onto there. So we're going to press fit those on.
And then that'll be the mains feed from downstairs sorted out. All right, so bear with us guys. Got to get set up.
Um, why is that suddenly really really tight? I haven't pressed it yet.
That's There we go. She's out.
All right. Pass me the angled drop the angled drill bit, Adam, please. I'm going to need to blow torch flux out of the van. I can't get on these to get a proper connection. So, I'm going to have to solve them solder weld it.
All right. So, I've lifted these boards up cuz it just makes my life a bit easier.
Don't like having too many boards up when I'm trying to do this sort of work and you got to do what you got to do.
All right. So, got our cold feedback to the loft in. So, next job I'm going to do is bin my hot through cuz my hot's got a link into this pipe over here to my right for the down feed. So, that's my next job really.
And problem is I can't get a pipe cutter on it. So, I've got to cut the old hot off with a multi-tool, which is what I had to do with the cold as well.
Just get rid of that bit of old steel barrel.
It's mad cuz it's literally that much steel barrel and it's back on the copper again. And then I need me file which I've seen cuz I need to clean the pipe up now. This is going to have burrs and I've used the multi tool. We don't want burrs on it.
That causes issues.
We don't want my deeper and clean with me pipe cleaner whenever I've done with it.
We got nice clean pipe. Guess we're probably going to have to solder that as well, which is not an issue.
All right. All right. Now, we got to come down there into a T and then we have to come through.
I'll show you.
All right. So, we got to literally come from our hole, come down through that first notch into this notch. A T sort of somewhere here, which should then be a slight kink downwards.
slight kick in it going down to go underneath the pipes and then I'll have to have another kick to come around to join onto the hot which is there.
So I've got a choice. I can try and do that as one bend.
So a 90 bend there, a 90 bend there. No, it's got to be a T. Sorry. So I'm fine.
I can just do me first P me first piece.
So, what we're going to do, let's get a measurement. If I can find what I've done with it. There she goes. Right. So, I want to come to about there.
And then I want to come up and I've got to put a reducer. So, I reckon if I cut that 110 not quite long enough. Give me another copper, please, Adam.
and 10.
I've just serviced all me pipe cutters as well, so they're all blunt and chipped and damaged. Now it cuts over quicker. Don't know why I left it so long, but there you go. All right, I need to know what the height's going to be, which is roughly 27 270.
Lost me bloody pencil again. You pass me another pencil, Adam, so that I've got more than one in here cuz I keep putting them down and losing the damn things.
All right, 27 down.
Cheers, mate.
Never have enough pencils. So 270. So I want bend at 270. Bottom of me bendly there. So it's fine.
Get that one bent.
So at 90 it's going to be cut short because we got to put a reducer cuz it's 20 mil pipe. So I need a reducer and a straight coupler which I bought this morning.
Make sure press fit box.
So, so I've got me 22 to 15 reducer and me straight coupler. So, those two got to go together like that. So, I need to change the jaws on me machine.
Pull it all the way out.
Get that in there like so.
I'm going to press fit that while it's out. Make sure we get it nice and press.
All right. Again, cleaning off the excess.
All right. I'm going to press fit that up in there while I've got it in place.
This is where it's going to get fun.
Now, I'm taking these bloody floorboards up.
That pencil pencil mark the top of me pipe knowing that that's all the way up.
That way I can make sure I don't move.
Go. Keep it in me pocket.
these awkward jobs.
What have I done? I've done that wrong.
I don't think I had the jaws on properly.
Cut that off.
Now, this is what I did wrong. All right.
Good job. I bought spares.
That was That was a silly mistake, wasn't it? This is not going well.
I've damaged that again. Wasn't on properly.
Little dopey tight.
I might have to do a solid joint up there. I don't think I'm going to get on it.
Okay. Is what it is.
Well, I said I'd show you the mistakes and they're easily made, unfortunately.
Okay, flux on there. Stick that in there.
And this is going to be awkward as well.
I could have just gone and got I might even have a push fit I could have done it with, but I don't want to mix all me fittings up. I'd rather stick to just copper.
Okay.
So, what I need to do is make sure I get this all cut to length and solder it all in one go. So, let's move the knee pad.
I'm going to probably have to trim this pipe to fit the situation.
Oh, no. It's too bloody short. Tight.
H believe it.
Don't too short now.
So what I'm going to do is I'm going to cheat rather than waste copper and bend another piece.
I'm going to solder this one in up there carefully.
And then I'll just put a press fit coupler on it.
Right. Tape measure. Handy little tip for you. When you're doing stuff like this, use a tape measure to help hold your pipes in. Extend it. Lock it into place.
And then just wedge it like so. And we can get in there.
We can solder those up.
So the pad back down ready flux ready.
That's eBay for you.
Okay.
Spray bowl.
Where's the spray bowl gone?
I'm making a bit of a mess of this.
This is all strip.
Let's give it a clean sound.
Now we can get on it.
All right, let's try that again.
So, bit of a learning curve on that one.
That's better. Right, that's connected.
That one's connected. Hotter palava.
Right. So, that's the hot. So, now what we got to do is put a tea on this and get it in place.
So, we're going to put a nail clip in there to hold that one in place there. All right. This has got to have a bend on it.
Guess what we need to do is basically got to come off this tea. We got to go down under under this waist pipe and then it's got to kick round onto the hot. So that is what I am now trying to achieve.
So we got our downward kick and now we need to put a little bend going this way. So we know bend's got to go that way.
So locked in and we can square it up.
Kick that way.
Fingers crossed. This just needs to be cut to the length. I'm just going to try and reposition you so you can see better, but I'm not sure how this is going to work because you'll be sitting on basically pipes.
All right. Okay. And you see that just about Okay. I've just got to do one final trim, I think. So, that's got to go in there. That's got to sit basically on there. Something like that.
And then this needs to be cut to length.
It's this last piece.
So about there, I think it is.
You're going to go on there. You're going to go on there. Something along them lines, I think.
So, I'm not going to do any press fit yet because I want to mark up me pipes.
I could press fit it, but I need to notch this joist out next. And I need to solder that connection cuz that's our hot down. And then the next cold just sails through here over to where somewhere else. So, let's s There's me flux.
There's me solder.
And let's solder that up.
The back. Might be a ton of solder on there. Hate it when you have to solder joints like that.
cuz this goes against gravity.
All right, I am going to crimp them because if I don't, I'm I'll end up bloody forgetting them. So, we know they're in here.
Okay, that's those two done. Right. So, all I got to do now is the toilet feed for the hot, which is this one. Sorry, hot for the um basin and the cold feed for the toilet and basin. So, happy days we get. One thing you should always check when you're doing this sort of work is what type of toilet your customers order. Now, we've got a back to wall pan, which means there's no room for any pipes externally. So they all got to go behind the toilet. So your next thing you need to check is the system. Now some systems are left-handed, some are right-handed, some of them are universal. Now this one happens to be a universal.
So that means we got what is potentially a cap and then you got the feed. Now unfortunately for me, they're ran the wrong way. I can do it that way round, but I don't want pipes on that side of the joist, I don't think. So, what I'm going to do is cuz I've already cut the floorboards up.
As you know, we've got the waist going out that wall. Now, I could bring my pipe through that line and then through there and up tight, but look how close the joist is to the actual waist. So, that's exactly where I want my pipe. So, I'm going to bring it through on this side, I'm thinking. I'm not sure yet. I mean, I could bring it through that side and I can just clip it to the joist, couldn't I? Yeah. Solid. All right. We're going to lift the rest of the boards up. I left them inside so I had somewhere to kneel. But, I'll lift them and it's less copper. So, I'll come through there, up there, tight to that joist, and that should bring us up nice and tight to the uh soil pipe. So, that's the plan anyway. So, that's what we're doing now.
Obviously, we got to do a T for the cold and the hot in that one where the waste is. That waste is all going to be cut out in a minute.
But I can't cut that out cuz I still got the condense to sort out. So, I need to get the condense through the wall on the other side down there.
Oh, no. Sorry. No, we're not. We're going to go down that corner. So once all this pipes out the way, we can go down that corner, come through there using the old notches and then we'll put a little 45 on it and go out the wall here somewhere. Soil pipe is roughly there. So we need to come out a side where it's going to be easy to get on.
So we'll figure that out in a minute.
All fun and games, ain't it?
Floorboard's all up. We've done some notches now. So now we can run our hot and our cold. So, a hot is only going to come here in that one. And then our cold's going to come through tight to this one. Obviously, we got to bring it out the floor tight to the wall on there. But in that one, we got to literally do a couple of chases up the wall cuz we got to chase the pipes into the wall on that side for the um Ujima flip, which I've already got the center marked. So, I need to draw a line down for me center and then do a a slot either side to bring our pipes up. 60 off the floor.
Adam, can you bring up the medium spirit level, please?
Tappy stick. Can sure you got some nice sharp edges.
Any breeze blocks are too mad with the SDS. You can't get the bulk of it out.
You literally just scrap that.
You never got to worry about is down here where it's in brick.
Oh, I ain't got a lot left of that joist. Jesus Christ.
I think I might have to do something with this. There's literally a hole underneath and a big chunk out where I did pipes. That joist is doing absolutely nothing. Think I might have to uh shore this joist up. Put another tape alongside it and bolt it in. I'll show you what I mean in a minute. All right, Adam, you got the coal shovel there, please. And the dust pan. That's our two chases for our hot and our cold.
I don't know what the hell I'm going to do with this joist. It's ridiculous. So, I might have to do it with a few of them to be fair. But they've taken out so much for the uh for the waist. I might have to put some timbers in there, in there, in there, and in that one just to try and make it stronger because there's not a lot left of these joists if I'm totally honest.
Well, much I can do about it, unfortunately.
I'm going to repair them, but that's what I'm going to have to do. Yeah, it's not good.
All right, guys. I'm not quite sure what we're going to do with this joist, if I'm totally honest.
I'll show you what I mean. Let me just spin you around. As you can see here, it's quite a big notch. A good good inch, inch and a half maybe. But the issue is here. See my fingers?
A big hole. Uh, that's what's left of the joist. And what I'm thinking I might have to try and do, which is not ideal, is somehow with a bigger breaker, notch out some brick here through the through to the first skin, slide a new 62 timber in there, and then bolt it along here at least up to about here because that will then strengthen that joist back up.
That one I'm not too concerned about cuz I can make that good with some glue timbers. We can glue some um V u wedges, some wedge, make some wedges and wedge that and glue it and then just plain it flat. Same there and the same there.
But yeah, that's far from ideal.
We need to figure out what we're going to do with the uh shower waste. really.
We'll get there when we get there, I suppose.
But there, that pipe was full of water.
Just sitting water where it was level.
Wasn't water wasn't running away.
So, we need to have a good good think about how we're going to man how we're going to handle this.
Anyway, that's not to worry for now. That's something we need to worry about in a little while. So just concentrate on one thing at a time.
That's that one.
Okay.
So now what I need is the feed for the toilet which has got to come over and through this joist here. That's right.
Through here up to this joist and then up and over.
So, I'm not going to do two bends. All I'm going to do, we're going to do a bend here. So, we can do this bend, but that one's going to be a tight elbow to bring it up nice and tight where I want it. Okay. So, we got it in our tea here.
It comes along, kicks down below level, bends round, and then we just got to do our final return up for above the floor next to our waist pipe. So, I'm happy with that connection. So, I'm going to quickly crimp that. And that's crimp done.
Like that one. So, now we're going to put an elbow coming up and out the floor. Now, we got to allow for floor boarding.
I need to cut this somewhere.
So, we're here.
That looks pretty good. So, I'm going to crimp that.
Let's crimp.
Okay.
That in there.
That one there. That one on there.
What I'm going to do, I'm going to put a crimp stop end on there cuz they're nice and small. They're smaller than the push fit.
And that way I make sure I get a nice get no leaks from it. And then we can just cut that off when we're ready.
Cut that off when we're ready.
Right. That's the cold fed feed, hot feed. All done. All I got to do is bring two tails.
Two towels out the wall at the height I want. Happy days. So, all back up and running. Hot water's on, cold water's on. Down feeds all working. Everything is working as it should. Hot water's working as it should. So, next job I'm going to do is the condense pipe. Now, what I figured I was going to do, what I've done actually is where the old pipe come through the wall, which was there.
What I've done is cuz it came through the wall there, we done a little chase down behind the skirt. So, I bring the pipe in on a 45 on another 45 onto a 90 and then I can just bring it through here straight onto that one there. It's only a condensed pipe, so it's not going to be the end of the world. We can get a small fall on it.
That's all we need. So, that's what I'm thinking. So, that's what I'm going to attempt to do now.
Oh, excuse me.
So, I'm going to go in the other room and do that while I can. Bit awkward.
Can't really film it. So, I'll see you at the other side. Okay. So, we've now put a new timber through there. So, we screwed it on first with some 70s and then we've gone through with three M10 nuts and bolts.
Obviously, I had to go under the pipe and try and make it as strong as I can.
And it goes through there into the void.
And there's some shims underneath it to make it solid. So, that's now made that stronger best I can. So, I'm going to put some expanding foam in and around that just to create like a barrier between the brick work and the the timber so it doesn't rot. Even though none of them have done that, so it's not like it's going to be an issue, but just what I want to what I want to do. Now, done a temporary connection with the the condents just so that we don't get any leaks. It's coming through under the floor. It's cable tied to a screw there just so it from bouncing. But it does run back uphill slightly, I think, there cuz the joists are out. And then I've just got it temporarily connected into that waist. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do cuz I'd like to I'm not comfortable drilling a 40 mil hole through three joist, especially a double trimmer.
What I'd like to have done is gone straight out that wall with a new core low as we can and then we only got to go through this one joist here then. And I could have put a tea there and teed that straight into it and then the condens would have bit more of a fall and less of a run straight out and the shower tray would run straight out going through one joist. But because this is here now cuz we had to put that timber in it puts us very close there.
And I mean I think we got about from that coping stone or capping stone we've got about 50 mil. So we could run a waste really close to that come through here. But the problem is it's going to come through so close to that joist.
I'm not sure how it's going to pan out whether it's something we could actually do. I mean, it's not going to affect the joist.
And if we pack it full of sand and cement when we're done to strengthen it around the pipe, it should be all right.
It is a tricky one. Do I really want my for my waist coming through that close to the joist? Cuz we could lose all those bricks there potentially.
It's a tricky one, but we could we could do away with that completely and have our waist go out there and have a waist go out there and have him join outside and going into one boss or even into two separate bosses wouldn't make no difference. But it's a tricky one, guys. It's very tricky.
Not sure what to do for the best.
I'm going to go outside and I'm going to have a little nose, but there's no way of measuring it. Do you know what I mean?
Anyway, things for me to think about.
All right, guys. What I'm going to do, I can see where the old waste comes out, and so it's on this pointing line, and I know I need to be close to this wall.
So, I'm just going to go through on the pointing line with a 10 mil drill bit within there like that. That way, if if it doesn't line up or I come close to the joist, so it looks a bit risky. I can just put a bit of sand and cement in that. That's what I'm going to do.
All right, that's me through the joist.
So, I haven't hit Good news is I haven't hit the uh the joist. So, let's go upstairs and have a look and see where that's come out.
See? So, that is actually not bad, guys.
I think I can get away with that. You can see it there. See the drill bits just come through.
So, I reckon if we're careful, we can core that. Bring a new waist through. I'm happier doing that, I think.
So, that's what we're going to do. We're going to get the core drill set up and we're going to core that from the outside in.
Happy days.
If you're wondering why I'm giving it a wiggle, it's because this is exactly 40 mil and it's very tight when you get a pipe through. But giving it that little wiggle make the hole a little bit wider makes it easier to get your pipe in.
Okay. I need to put me extension on.
Pause it. These clipper core bits. So good. I'll tell you the best purchase I've ever made. Makes life cing so much easier.
All right.
>> Is it you making all that bloody noise?
>> Yeah, I decided to change my plan. There we go.
Nice new pipe through there. So where we will come off of that.
Come down and in somewhere down here with a new boss connector. We will cut that one away. Put a cap on it. And then we'll have to infill and make good that hole where the old hole was. Not the end of the world. But this now we got less of a run of waste pipe.
So, now we're going to get a much much better fall on our shower waist, which is what we were aiming for.
Happy days. All right, guys. We are pretty much done for today. We've still got a lot to do. Um, tomorrow I'm going to put the flooring back down and finish the waist, but what I got to do now is, um, for some reason, hang on. Here we go. Right. Sorry, I'm having a me with the camera. Right. Okay. Here we go.
Right. So, that condenser pipe is now going to tee into this white pipe here rather than that old black one. And we'll make good that hole like I said.
That way then I got a nice it's got a bit of a fall there. And it's got less of a run. So, I can put a nice downward sweep straight into that. And then we can come through here.
And because of what we're going on here, what I'm thinking of doing is potentially cuz the waist is literally just on the other our new shower trap waist is going to be just on the other side of that joist.
And what I'm thinking of doing is is going through at a slight angle and potentially putting a flexi waist in so that we get a nice sweep for the waist rather than right angles.
That's what I'm thinking of doing anyway.
Purely because I I want to keep this full. Could have done with that pipe being a bit lower, but it's hard to gauge. I didn't want to drill out from this side because if I done it wrong and the pipe didn't come out the other side, it was too much risk. The way I done it was the right way. And it's got a lovely fall as it is. And if I've only got to take a notch out the top of one joist and run a flexi straight into my shower trap, I'll be a lot happier. I'm going to put my my famous slimline one in so I could potentially just run a flexi way straight through onto that. It's not ideal. I haven't determined that that's what I'm going to do yet. I'm going to play around with it tomorrow once the tray is here. I got to pick the tray up.
So, I've got to pick the tray up. I've got to pick the trap up. I got to pick up four lengths of floorboard cuz unfortunately this is 2.5, not 2.4.
So I'm going to have to basically cut one to a joist and then use the fourth as a as a filler piece to fill in the ends. But it is what it is. It's not the end of the world. So basically what we do is the first board wherever it goes. Say for example, we put our first board along that wall. We cut it so that it ends there with our joint. And then we can cut a piece off the fourth board which will go there. And then the other end of that board will start the next row and cut potentially on that joist.
And then another one there. Then the end of that one will go to sort of there.
And then that's free jo that's free. And then we've only got to put a little piece in potentially at the end there which is fine.
So there's going to be quite a bit of wastage on the floorboards. But it is what it is. There's nothing we can do about that. Still got to patch that hole up somehow. I'm not sure what we're going to do when it comes to patching that big hole up cuz these are only 50 mil bricks or blocks I should say. So, I need to make a decision how we're going to fill that and make that good. What I was thinking of doing was wedging a board or an offcut floorboard on the back behind the pipes in front of the pipes even so that we can basically fill then we could fill it up with bonding.
But I don't that's not really ideal.
Ideally, you want to put a block in there. I might have a hunt around, see if we can find an old 50 mil block that I can just sand and cement a block in there just to fill it properly. Don't know. That's something I've got to come to. The other thing I've got to look at is these radiator pipes. Now, these are only 70 mil thick, these walls. I mean, that's stud work anyway cuz that's an old doorway. So, what I might do is potentially bring the parts up inside that stud, which is what I'm probably going to do in the center of that wall.
And then we can just patch a bit of plaster board in there. That's easy.
Haven't got to do any chasing or anything. That's perfect. That'll work.
Lovely.
So, yeah, there's a lot to do still. Get the floor down. We got to make good the walls. Still got to plaster the ceiling.
Still got to get the rest of this stipple off the wall. Off the ceiling.
We got to put down lights in. Extractor fans got to be fitted. So, there's a lot of work still to do, but we will get there. Once this floor goes back down tomorrow, it'll be plain saving by the end of this week. We'll have all these walls made good. Shower tray should be in.
All the pipe work done and ready to go.
Sorry about that, guys. Had a phone call. Obviously, I've still got the shower pipes to run as well. I've made a decision. I'm going to go through the joist. Not if I use a flexi, it only be a really short one. So, I've already drilled me hole.
So, I've just drilled a hole through the joist nice and tight to get a bit 40 mil in. And I'll probably just do like I won't do a straight 90. Might do like 245 to get a really nice gradual bend.
And then obviously we're going to cut a tea in down there like we have there with the condents and move the condens into the waist there. And then we'll just gradually bend that and then it'll be either it'll be obviously a 90 there once I get the shower trap in roughly there. So yeah, it's all stuff that I need to consider still. But but I'm definitely going to go through there.
But I'm glad I'm only going through the one joist rather than bloody three and a double trimmer or two and double trimmer.
But yeah, that's where we are so far.
So that's where I'm going to leave it for today. So, don't forget, like, share, follow. Come back tomorrow and see how we get on. We'll see you then.
Bye-bye.
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