How To Sew a Kimono Mid hip Gathered Dress With Scrub Neckline | Easy Beginner-Friendly Tutorial

Added: 2026-05-09

[00:00:00]Hey you all. So hi to fellow dress makers. You're welcome to another interesting tutorial. And on this one, we'll be making this gorgeous mid-hip gathered dress with a scrub neckline, kimono sleeve, and a belt that helps snatches the waist. So if you're interested, I'm here to show you how to go about the cutting and stitching of this dress. To make this dress, you will need about three yards of yankara fabric. the one we are trying to recreate. I think they use that for that. But this is just the regular small anchor and you need about 3 yards. So what I'm going to do now is to fold it just enough to contain the shoulder measurement divided by two plus the sleeve. And this is how I folded it. Can you see? I folded for both front and back. And the length you're going to make sure that it gets to your hip at least. Do you understand? You can decide to now add 1 in or 2 in to it. Now on the top of this fabric, I'm going to mark the shoulder measurement divided by two. Then from that point, I will mark my desired sleeve length. I recommend you do about 8 in. Yeah. Then I'm going to now start from the top of the fabric and go down to the bus point line. Then from that point, I'm going to also measure down to the waistline. And because this is a free dress, I recommend that you minus about half in from your actual shoulder to waistline so that yeah, it will still maintain your waistline because this is a free dress. Then you measure down to your hip line which you can decide to add 1 in or 2 in to it or you just maintain your actual hip line. So these are the lines we need. Then the next thing we going to do now is to just contour the shoulder.

[00:01:38]And I'm using 2 in to slope the shoulder. And you see me doing it like this. So this other one we have from here to the B point line will be the sleeve opening which works just fine for me. If you want it more open, go ahead and increase it. I'll measure the whole of what I have here on the shoulder.

[00:01:55]Then come down here on this B point line and minus 1 in from it or 1 and 1/2 and connect it to this top like this. Once I'm done with that, I'm now going to take the bust measurement divided by four on this B point line plus 2 in.

[00:02:11]I'll be using 1 in to close it on the side seam. Then the other one in will be for ease because I'll still need to weave. So I will use about 1 in to close it. So that after weaving, I'll still have about 1/2 in left. Then on the waist, the waist measurement divided by 4 + 2 in for ease and side seam allowance. on the hip line, the hip measurement divided by 4 plus 2 in for ease and side seam allowance. Then you're going to blend in this part just as you see me do it. It's pretty much simple. The next thing now is to do the neckline. And for the neckline, you can decide to make it just as wide as the one we are trying to recreate. Yeah. And to do that, you're going to do your standard neck width plus extra 2 in.

[00:02:54]Yeah. Then you go down to your desired neck depth. Then on that point you'll be coming in to about 0.75 or 1 in. But yeah from what you are trying to replace just come in there to about 1/2 in or 0.75. Then for the neck width I said you can use your standard neck width plus extra 2 in just to make it just as wide as the one we're trying to copy. But yeah this is what I have. I use about 4 in for mine. Then for the neck depth I use about 7 in. Then on that neck I came in 0.75. When I cut this open and open it up is going to be 1 and a2. I'll go ahead and cut it out.

[00:03:31]And y I made a mistake. Thank god I still have another fabric. The one I was supposed to use for her sister would be remaining because of the style she chose. So yeah, that was my saving grace for this. So I cut the neckline for both front and back. I was supposed to give the back just a 2 in round neckline. So what I'll do now is to just go ahead and transfer it to another fabric. Then I came down 2 in. I still maintain the neck width. Then I'll go ahead and cut it out like you see me do it here. So I'll take out one of it since I was cutting for front and back earlier.

[00:04:04]Yeah. So I'll take out one of it. Then use this other one to trace out on this fresh fabric. Now do you understand? Now we have front and back. Don't forget to notch the waistline because that is where your belt will be going. Now the next thing we'll be taking into consideration is the gathered fabric.

[00:04:21]Yeah, that will be coming on this hip line. So you're going to mark what you're going to use to close the side seam. Then you measure from that point to the midp point of your fabric or the center front. And then since this is both front and back, that means whatever it is to measure, you're going to times it by four. That is for front and back.

[00:04:39]And then whatever it gives you, you're going to times that by three or by four.

[00:04:44]So I have about 11 and 12 folded like this. When I open it up is going to be 23. Yeah. And 23 for both front and back is about 46. So what I'll do now is 46 * 3. That's what I'm going for. And that is giving me about 138. Yeah. So I'm going to cut a fabric just as wide as [snorts] this 138. I'll be doing 139 so that I will use um half in to close it on the center back. Do you understand?

[00:05:12]And then for the length of that fabric, what you're going to do is to measure what you have here. Then you minus it from your whole gown length. Whatever it is you have left, that will be the length for that gathers fabric. Do you understand? But yeah, the wideness 138.

[00:05:26]The length what I have left to make up the gown length for this girl. Do you understand? So after cutting them out, these are all the pieces we need. This for the gathered fabric or the gathers.

[00:05:39]And I said it's going to be about 138.

[00:05:41]And I I joined it here because I couldn't get 138 at a go. So I joined it and ironed it smoothly. This is an that's why it's you cannot see it. It's almost invisible when you join anara. So this is for the belt. You're going to make it as long as you want. Then you're going to just cut it as wide as you want to. I recommend doing 2 in upward depending on how much you want it to snatch your waist. That depends on how wide you're doing it. So I'll just fold it into two and sew it. Then what I'm going to do with this one is to just place them right side to the right side like this. Then I will go ahead and join on the shoulder which I can still see my added joining allowance on the shoulder.

[00:06:23]So I'll join this one too. Then after that if you're doing this you're simply going to just fold this sleeve making sure you exhaust the added folding allowance you have on the sleeve. But then after turning the shoulder this is what I have. I will now go ahead and join or close the sleeve [snorts] or hem the sleeve like you see me do it here.

[00:06:44]Just fold it just as wide as you want it or you make it tiny as you want it. But then after doing that, the next thing we'll be doing is to fix the belt. And for that, I'm going to be using that notch I have on the waistline. After closing the belt, yeah, you're making sure you're closing it on the down part like one side is folded or closed. So that this open part is where you'll be placing on your side seam now. And you see that I placed it from that notch upwards. I recommend you do it like that from your notch. That's from your waistline upwards and not the belt going from your waistline downward. So after placing it there and pinning it down to secure it, you're now going to close your side seam, which I say that will be closing with 1 in. So after doing that, this is what is looking like. The next thing we'll be working on now is the neckline. And at this point, go ahead and give your dress a thorough press if you have the means. But yeah, my eye yarn wasn't on. So what I'll do is just go ahead and measure around the neckline. And I have about 31 in. Then on this belt which I created or band that I created for the neckline, I'm going to be cutting about 35 in. I measured 31 in on the neckline. Here I'm cutting about 35 just so I have it extra. Do you understand? Then what I'm going to do is to just fold it in total like this and get the midpoint. So for your band, you can just cut a strip of fabric and then you fold it in total.

[00:08:11]But what I did was to fold it like you're working um with a waist band. I just folded it like that. And the wideness is about 2 in. So by the time I'm done sewing, I would have about I think I'll have about 2 and 1/2 there.

[00:08:25]Then by the time I'm done sewing, I'll have about 2 in. Then for the wideness I have here, it's 1 and 1/2. And I'll be sewing/2 in on both side. And at the end of the day, it's going to be 2 and 1/2.

[00:08:34]And I have 2 and 1/2 band here. So that means it's going to wrap or overlap nicely. Do you understand? Whatever it is you have from the opening of the neckline after sewing, just make sure you have that as the wideness of your band. Do you understand? Then you're going to match up the midpoint of the band to the midpoint of the neckline and sew it round. Then when you get to the neck depth, you're going to go down half in from your neck depth. You see what I did here? Just come down in from your neck depth. And then you're not going to notch diagonally going to that same half in you came down from the neck depth.

[00:09:10]Just notch diagonally like this. Not straight. Just diagonally corner it like you see me do it here. And now you're going to arrange the neckline. Make sure you the joining allowance you have on the neckline is going into this band.

[00:09:24]Now arrange it. Pin it if you want to or go ahead and iron it to keep it in place. Arrange it properly. Then now you're going to turn it to the right side like this because this is where you'll be stitching it down. You can do stitch in a ditch just so it comes out neat like mine here. So after doing that, this is what the neckline is looking like. This is just so I have just one end to weave on the neckline.

[00:09:48]And I like it like this. Now go ahead and arrange this neckline. Fold the rough edge of that neck. That part will notch diagonally. That allowance there.

[00:09:58]Just fold it in. Then you pin it down like this. Just so you keep it in place so that you turn it to the wrong side this way. And it's still in place. And now you can see that this is overlapping nicely. It's not hurting or any part is not squeezing because we made the band too small or the neckline too wide for the band. Don't know if you understand.

[00:10:18]So like I explained, whatever wideness you will have after sewing on that opening we have on the neckline, you're going to make sure that is the exact width you have on your band. So that after sewing too is going to overlap without hurting the neckline. So go ahead and stitch it down like you see me explain here. Just make sure your hand is straight here. Following that same stitch you have from the neck depth down that 1/2 in stitch. Following where it stops, you're going to follow it to sew it like you see me explain it here. And then after doing that, you're going to cut off the excess fabric there. And then you're going to have something like this. You can see even without ironing, no part is squeezing. Everything is just smooth. Now we're going to work on the gathers and for that please go ahead and iron your fabric or your gown if you have the mean so that it will be smooth for you to do this next step. I'll fold the gathers fabric into two and notch it. Then fold it again into four like this and notch it and this particular notch will be going to the two side seams. This is just how I do it because I like to gather as I go. Do you understand? You can decide to just gather first and measure around what you have on your hip line. Make sure it's the same thing you gathered on your fabric before you now come and fix it on the base. But if you know me, you know that this is how I do my gathers. I like to gather as I go. So I'm going to close it on the center back. And after doing that, we are going to start matching up the notches. You understand? This part that I closed will be going to the center back. So I will match it on the notch I have on the center back. The neckline now will tell you which part is the back and which part is the front.

[00:12:00]Then the next notch will be going to the side seam. Then this other notch will be going to the center front. Then the last notch will be going to the other side seam. And then I'm going to be sewing or gathering. And yeah, pinning it down like this. I'm notching them. I'm matching them up will help me know that this excess fabric I have is allocated to this part. Then I'll just go ahead and exhaust it before I get to the next notch. I'll just do it like that until I'm done gathering. Like I said, go ahead and gather first before um doing this part. Like you come and fix it to this base, but I like to do mine like this. So after you're done doing that, you're now going to just fold or hem the down part like this. And after that, you're going to give it a good press.

[00:12:47]And that's pretty much how you go about this dress. And y the madam I made this for did not want to send the video of her wearing this dress because she said she's camera shy and it's been 4 months since this has been sitting on my gallery. So this was the one I made for her sister. Same style. The only thing is that I use a different fabric. This one is vintage material. And then the back of this one is laced. I added three loops on each side seam. Yeah. So that because she wanted it to be more snatched. That's the only difference.

[00:13:19]But yeah, I made her sister's own before hers. And that's why I didn't record this one because it's the same style.

[00:13:25]But I hope you found it very helpful. If you did, let me know in the comments.