This video provides a sophisticated look at the intersection of metallurgy and dynamics, proving that true off-road capability begins with a rigid chassis. It is a masterclass in how surgical engineering can transform a vehicle’s handling by addressing its fundamental structural weaknesses.
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The Best Front Suspension Upgrade for Gen 1 Raptor & Header Install Tips追加:
What are you doing there, buddy?
>> Oh, yo. Yo, we can't show that, brother.
Are we doing the intro right now?
>> Right now. Okay. Hey, uh, what's up, folks? Sorry you caught me off guard here. Uh, can't really see that yet.
That's for another project that's coming up. But today, we are working on that dirt cheap Raptor. Yes, it's back. And you know what? That thing has been an absolute workhorse and probably one of the best buys I have ever made in my entire life. But like any 200,000 mi vehicle, it's got some problems and we need to solve those today. And we're going to do it the right way.
>> Stock, right? You're keeping it stock.
>> Yeah, about that.
So, like any red-blooded automotive performance loving American, we're going to take this opportunity to improve upon the factory design. Currently, this truck is sitting at about 212,000 mi.
Pretty sure that not a single ball joint, hub, or even spark plugs been changing this damn thing since it was new. The steering wheel shakes super bad at highway speed and it feels extra sloppy around town, which is not very confidence inspiring. So, we are heading down to Hannah Race Design in Anaheim so we can install one of their mini travel kits, which basically includes a super beefy hand fabricated lower control arms that allow for an additional triple bypass shock up front and limit straps, billet upper control arm. They also weld in a ton of steel plating at the chassis's weakest point so that we can stiffen up everything and put that load directly into the shock rather than having a bunch of chassis flex. And the best part is it retains the factory track width up front while increasing the performance of this thing exponentially. So, this thing is going to be an absolute beast on and off the road.
Now, the reason I'm going with this kit is because I have a super tight parking space. I park in an underground garage at my apartment complex and I physically could not fit this truck into my spot with six more inches of track with up front.
>> Yeah, as you can see, it's a little tight down here.
>> Now, this truck also has a pretty nasty exhaust leak. So, I did pick up a set of long tube headers, Xpipe, and full exhaust from Stainless Works. If we have enough time during this episode, we're going to install that, too. Now, the boys in Hannah Race Design come highly recommended from some of the best in the business. I'm talking the Herps guys. My neighbor Brady, who preps unlimited class trophy trucks, was actually the person that turned me on to them in the first place. And for those in the know, these guys are the absolute best in the business when it comes to these firstg Raptors.
All right, so we have made it to Hannah Race Design. It's Friday, so obviously you know what that means. It's arm day, baby. We're back on the Raptor and we are going to solve some problems that are notorious with these and especially mine. Now, obviously, last time you saw the Raptor, we did all that beautiful ADS suspension. We threw the deck system into it. We threw some tires on it, but we're doing some upgrades today. There's some weak points that we're addressing here. That's what we're doing with Mr. Bailey's kit over here. We did a breakdown on these yesterday, unpowder coated, so you can actually see all the beautiful metal work that they do on these things. So, this is our mini travel kit. These are OEM replacement lower control arms for Gen 1, 2, and three Raptors and OEM replacement upper control arms for Gen 1, two, and three Raptors. This kit is stock width, so it doesn't go any wider. It uses a factory ball joints for each generation here.
The reason we came out with this kit in general was to add a bypass and add a limit strap tab to those factory arms while also gaining a little bit of ground clearance and a nicer profile on the front to help deflect rocks and stuff like that. There's internal ribbing here for the shock mounts. They run all the way through. What are these things made out of?
>> We have two options. Do we make them out of mild steel or chromali? Most guys offer the mild steel route just cuz the price point is like a lot less.
>> Is this mild steel?
>> Yes.
>> Okay. So, weight on this compared to the chromali version. What are we looking at?
>> Oh, chromali is a significantly stronger material. I've heard it's like 5 to eight times stronger with in the plate form. It's a little bit overkill with a setup like this. Since we're running 3/16 plate work in here, if it were to be a chromali arm, we should probably do it out of 8 in. It should be TIG welded a lot thinner, a lot lighter. But since this is kind of the standard design of it, we just went with the PO setup for most guys. So, this can take a beating.
>> Yes. No, it's definitely can take a beating.
>> Okay. Even though it's with >> Yes, exactly. Yes.
>> Hell yeah. Seems robust. Welds look really good. Looks really clean. You guys do killer work here.
>> Thank you. Thank you. Appreciate it.
>> Now, let's get into these uppers, though. So, obviously billet aluminum, you got spiracool bushings. Walk me through the design of this.
>> We just wanted to have another alternative to the factory arms. They are kind of a weak link. The ball joints are kind of weak on the upper arms as well. So, we use an inch and a half unable in the upper pivot here and then a 7/8 inner pimes.
>> When I look at the stock arms, right, that looks like the thing that would break first.
>> Yeah, right.
>> It typically is. Yeah.
>> This shouldn't break.
>> They definitely should not break. They anything can break, of course, but the tensil strength on the billet aluminum upper arms, especially when they're nice and short like the stock width ones, is extremely strong.
>> Do you guys stock these or you guys make these kind of order? How does it work?
>> Um, so we have all the plate work in stock. We're pretty small shop, so we don't have them usually on the shelf ready to go. We're trying to get there.
Um, we have several kits tacked up ready to go. So, if you were to order one, we can have one ready by the end of the week.
>> And then what kind of time actually goes into fabricating one of these? Cuz it's not just like a, oh yeah, here we just got it from China and machine did it.
>> A set of lowers takes about a day to assemble and weld out completely. A little bit less, but about a day. Whe that's adding the bypass mounts, adding uniball cups and all that stuff.
>> Good old fashioned made right here in mother America. Boom. That's what we like by actual craftsman. What is the retail price on a kit like this? So, we offer three kits for the mini travel kit, which is just the lower arm kit.
The uppers are sold separately. The mini travel kit for the basic kit comes with the lowers, limit straps, hardware kit, ball joints, 3200 for that kit. Then the bypass kit comes with the secondary bypass shock towers, all this stuff, and the frame plates here. That kit runs 4,100. And then the premium kit comes with everything's here. So, this is the lower pivot lockout plates, the frame plates, all the hardware limit straps, secondary shock tower, and then we also add lower gusset tubes to connect the lower pivots as well. Uh, that kit runs 4,300.
>> Not bad.
>> Yeah, >> not bad. Walk me through some of the hardware here. You got big beefy ass.
This is good.
>> Yeah. Yeah, definitely. So, we like to run little Gucci 12 points on all the limit straps. grade eight stuff for 3/4-inch bolts for the lower pivots, 20 mil bolts, I believe, for the lower shocks, 5/8 bolts for the bypasses, and then all the plate work we weld on the frame is all crali. So, these are 3/16 chromali frame plates for the side of the frame there where the bypass tube lands about here. And these are the lower pivot lockouts. These three here, and then these guys are the lower pivot caps. So, they go on the very bottom of the front pivots, which like to get dinged up and bend back and stuff like that.
>> Sweet. So, we get to reinforce. We're not just bolting on arms. We're not just putting pretty bolts in. We're actually like making the frame a little bit more rough.
>> Absolutely. Yeah. So, when all this is welded on the frame, the truck can handle a lot more abuse. Like a lot more big hits, uh-oh moments that won't bend your frame or buckle your lower pivots and stuff like that.
>> Hell yeah.
>> Sick.
>> Our homies at ADS came through in an absolute pinch and turned around these custom shocks because Bailey's get over here allows us to use an additional triple bypass up front. What's the point of having more shock up front, bro?
>> More compression control, more rebound control, more dampening. So, so I can launch it now?
>> Yeah, you can launch it more. Yeah, bottom out. Control. More control all around.
>> CONTROL. CONTROL. CONTROL, BABY. BUT YEAH, ADS literally turned these around in like 2 days. We made this call on Wednesday. This is Friday. They got here yesterday. So, shout out to the boys. I was stoked that we get to stick with all ADS stuff because, you know, you want to be matchy matchy. But, I've put 30,000 mi on the existing triple bypasses in the rear and the coilovers that are up front. They have worked flawlessly.
Obviously, I'm not launching this thing off huge jumps or anything, but now we get a little bit of extra force here that we can put this thing through confidently. This is not something they make, but I think it's something that you guys might start doing together. So, I'm excited on that. What do we got to do on this thing? I mean, your kit involves plating the frame. We get into that in the in the breakdown, but what do we got to do from here?
>> First, we're going to tear all the suspension off. We're going to prep the frame. We're going to clean up the the rear frame section so we can add the overlays on the frame, the lower pivots.
We're going to clean those off to add lower pivot lockout plates. And we're going to set the alignment and then we're going to weld those in.
>> I feel like 35s look a little anemic on this. So I got some 37s. You happen to know off the top of your head how much clearancing we got to do for those?
>> Uh not too much. Just a little pinch weld modification, some hammering and Yeah. We'll get all clearanced up.
>> So everything works with your mini travel kit here?
>> Yes, sir.
>> All right. So here's what we're going to do. We're going to start tearing this thing down and then we're going to start grinding and cutting and put some on.
Let's go, baby. Happy Friday.
This front end is clapped out. Enlighten me. How clapped out are we talking?
>> Like a full round of applause.
>> Might need a vacuum.
>> You bury this thing.
>> This looks very Midwestern. Reminds me of home.
Steering's off, arms are off, axles are out. Let's do a little analysis here, cuz this frame's got a little bit of rust on it. But one of the things that I kept noticing with this in particular is that every time I would get it in line, as soon as I turn it to lock, it just blows it out of alignment. Again, what problems are solved with your kit here?
These trucks come stock with the alignment's done in the lower pivot. So, it's slotted here. So, alignment guy can move the lower arms a little forward and back and set your alignment. It's great for street driving stuff. If you're just, you know, driving around town, but off-roading, these things like to get knocked out of place and then next thing you know, your steering wheels like this or it's pulling to the right or whatever. So, when we do our kit, we align the truck, but then we added plates in here and lock these out. So, it's a fixed hole. So, there's no movement there anymore. Everything's fixed. Stays in its original position.
You don't have to get alignment after off-roading. I like it. Let's go.
I see a cutting wheel. So, this is good.
>> Yes. So, now we're going to remove these little dinky frame plates that come from the factory. We're going to cut this all the way off. Clean up some of the rust here and here and here and here. And we're going to clean out in here. We're going to weld all these seams. And then we're going to lay a new overlay plate in here. Big 3/16 chromoli plate. Nice strong. Actually, what we're going to do is we're going to cut the entire front end of the car off. Right. A tube front.
It's going to be sick. It's going to be done in like 15 minutes. No big deal.
These guys are pros.
What do we got? We got some mother wheels, baby. Listen, when we bought that truck, it had some Broocks on it.
They look nice, but like you can't be faking the funk here. I love these things on the K5. So, we just went with the tried andrue KMC forged beadlock race cars. You know what I mean? And then also to back that up, 35s look a little anemic on it. Now really, if we're going big dog stuff, we'd be running it like that. But uh maybe not appropriate for the old Raptor, right? So we got some X Comp XT 37s now because you know what? You can't do arm day without backing it up with some leg day. Okay. Sitting pretty. The real question is, will it fit in my garage? We'll find that out later.
Probably the hard way.
Getting the truck all leveled, all corners, front, back, side to side. You see the level array here as well. They got some bare arms up there that aren't powder coated. basically setting the alignment so they can weld and plate everything in so there's no adjustments needed there at the lower. So now we're going to set the lower exactly where it needs to be, mark our center lines, and then we'll pull the lowers off and then lay our plates over those center lines and drill our holes.
>> I take it you're doing all the leveling just in case uh I've like watted the frame and bent it a little bit.
>> Yeah. Yeah. Sometimes it can be a little wonky to align these things.
>> Hell yeah. There you go.
>> All righty. So we have our alignment set. So we go in the lower control arm pivots here. And we like to set the front one all the way forward and the rear one all the way out if we can get away with it. It usually kind of ends up towards the middle. So now the the lowers are ready to get welded out. Now we have our camber and caster all set with our upper adjustment set. Ready to take everything apart, tighten it down, and weld it up.
>> So when you're welding, what are you what are you doing here?
>> For these lower plates here, we don't have the plates in yet. There's inner plates for the front pivot. So we tack those in place. Then we take the bolts out, put the plates over here, and mark our center holes. And then same with the rears. And then we put those on, just weld all the way around. They fit nice uh all the way to the outside of the whole um structure here. And so then we don't have to worry about this thing just sliding back and forth and back and forth.
>> That's right. Exactly.
>> Hell yeah. Okay.
>> And then the other thing we're going to add too is a bottom cap here.
>> Oh, really?
>> These guys like to get tagged and they like to fold over and they're very hard to bend back.
>> So we get to beef them up.
>> Yeah.
>> Let's go. All right.
>> Beef strength >> control.
>> Your motor mounts are a little bit blown.
>> Yeah.
>> Oh yeah, bud.
>> Yo, damn. That looks sick. This is a structure for the shock tower.
>> Yes, sir.
>> Okay. Brought on.
>> By the way, you know, we're in here and uh they can't help but notice this gigantic crack in my exhaust manifold, which I can hear every single day. Is this one of those things that we should just like while we're in there just throw some headers on it?
>> I mean, yeah, it's probably not a bad idea.
>> So, okay. Headers are notoriously like the most pain in the ass thing to do on these.
>> They do suck. Definitely.
>> What should somebody consider when doing headers? I like to get as many things out of my way as I can before I start.
So, if we're going to do headers, I will pull the crossmember out there. I'll take this front diff out and um I'm going to take the starter out and then I'm going to take the motor mount out on the passenger side. And while we're doing it, we'll probably should just replace those >> and then probably spark plugs since those are rather painful to get to.
>> Yeah. I mean, we're going to be jacking the motor up and moving stuff around.
So, it's probably a good time to do those as well. And, you know, who knows the last thing I've never done.
>> I mean, if we're going to do it, let's let's go. I mean, I have headers. I got some Stainless Works ones.
>> I think we can handle it.
Well, while we're in there, I guess the build spirals out of control further.
All right, let's go, people.
>> God damn it. I'm going to bleed really bad.
>> I think I smacked a vein, which sucks.
>> You're going to need to get this stitched up.
Man, look how restrictive that looks.
We're about to get all the flow, baby.
Look how tiny that is, man. Just like they came off a flathead. Not conducive to power or efficiency, really.
cuz you know getting rid of the old 35s cuz they were a little anemic and uh stepping up to something with beef.
So, as you can see, real nice forged KMC bead lock on some XCOM 37 125 XTs. We went with the 125 so we'd have a little bit more clearance. It wouldn't be as wide and as heavy. I think these will be a proper look, >> but it's going to be slower.
>> I mean, maybe. But maybe this is also an excuse to get a supercharger.
Here's the deal. Since we had all the uh suspension parts off and we inevitably have to take those off to put the exhaust on, we're going to do that. And I tell you what, doing exhaust on these kind of a pain in the ass. Now, as you can see, we are going from a completely stock, rusted out, clapped out manifold and giant cat to a new very beautiful stainless works, all stainless steel system with long tube headers, Xpipe, and we have the mufflers and exhaust to go all the way out the back. So, we're going over to a dual system here with a crossover. Now, as you can see, giant crack in the driver side manifold right here. So, that's what was getting us that nasty exhaust leak, which nobody likes, right? Obviously, this system also pretty restrictive. And I'm sure these cats have a ton of crap in them.
This stainless work system is awesome.
Couple things I like about it. We got inch and 7/8 primaries. We got a nice thick flange. They are welded all the way around. So, that is going to be nice for not leaking. These inch and 7/8 go into a 3-in collector. We got nice TIG welded O2 bungs right there going into a high flow catalytic converter. 3-in system out the back. Of course, we've got the provisions for the Aftercat O2 sensors as well. And we got a nice Xpipe here. Now, the rest of the system, we don't have that laid out, but Stainless Works mufflers, 3-in. This is good. I like the way this looks. I have Stainless Works headers on my Tahoe.
Those worked beautifully, even with me moving the motor around and stuff, and they hold up really good. That is not an easy vehicle cuz a lot of things shake and vibrate. It's really terrible. Now, one thing Bailey suggested was that we actually run stock MLS gaskets on this.
Sometimes when you run the RTV on them, well, blows them out. And if we're going to do any kind of off-roading, and you know, I like to get stupid sometimes. I don't like exhaust leaks, and you don't either. We don't need that sound, especially with a beautiful exhaust like this. That's what we're doing. By the way, this is the Stainless Works muffler. Basically, a straightthrough design with a perforated core, but it's got the little party dimples in it. That should make for a pretty unique sound.
Also comes with some big old chrome tips and then all the clamps and hangers. And you don't have to reuse all the stock crap that looks disgusting. And well, the ones on mine are rusted all to hell.
So, this is good. Another thing I really like about this stainless work system is that they actually include instructions, both written and with pictures for people like me that can't read. Another cool thing, look at all the hardware that they send. Look how nice that stuff is for the mounts and O2 extenders.
These guys have actually thought through a lot of this stuff. So, shout out to Stainless Works. And if you're extra dumb like me, look at this. left, driver's side, right, passenger side. On all the parts, it tells you which side it goes on so you don't have to guess.
Please, other exhaust companies, take note because it's painful when you're trying to figure this out and there's nothing in there for you, okay?
We can put stuff together. We just might not be able to read well. So, we are going to bolt this thing in since we've got all of the exhaust off. By the way, last night the boys came welded all the plate work in. Did a beautiful job here.
master over there. I don't know if we can say that on YouTube, but killer job.
While we're in here, we're also going to be doing the motor mounts. We've got new motor mounts for this thing. Got new spark plugs, and I got some new wires from Granitelli Motorsports, which if you watch my channel, you know I love these things. And here's why. Nobody likes losing spark. So, these are thermalins insulated all the way through. These are actually zero ohm spark plug wires. Apparently, guys get a little bit of a boost in fuel economy when running those. So, that's good, too. I don't want to waste any more of the time here and uh eat up their weekend some more. So, let's get to work.
All right. So, the exhaust is done. It is in and it is run all the way out the back. Now, I uh accidentally ordered the wrong system. That's my bad. I put the wrong uh part number in there, but we got the system that actually goes dual exit out the back. Meant to order the one was a single exit out the side, but whatever. Still looks good. It's going to sound good. This all went in without much of a hitch at all. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like. The boys did a phenomenal job here. Right. Plating work awesome. All the structural reinforcement. We even got little tabs for the external bypasses on this side, too. So, it will be nice and pretty. So, both sides are ready for paint right now. Dry most of the stuff down. But before we do that, we got to cut and then hammer back this little ridge here.
This is what you got to clear on a stock Raptor to fit 37s. Not really a huge deal. Is it cuty cut time? It's time to make some cuts. You got to cut it.
>> All right, I'm done being a nerd.
Heat. Heat.
This is a very in-depth process. I see why you guys take such care to do this.
And I see why this costs what it does because this is a hell of a lot of work.
>> Yeah, >> it's been a long three days. What should I not do? All right. Where should I What should I draw the line of throttling myself?
>> Well, we're going to need to do some work to the rear before you can really get after it in this thing, but this front end is going to be pretty stout.
You could take a pretty bad uh-oh in the front end and stuff it pretty good. The frame should hold up.
>> Okay, that's good to know. Obviously, this truck does still need some work on some things. Like, you got any suggestions on what kind of like I should think about and do next? The next upgrade would definitely be Daver Springs in the back. Okay.
>> Yeah, I'd recommend Davers and then we make a bump stop kit for here as well.
>> You know what? Honestly, like dude, seeing this, this is rad. I feel like we need to get this out in the desert. Do you guys have any like testing coming up or anything that >> Yeah. Yeah. We'll get out there. Yeah.
>> I will tell you what, comment below if you think we should actually put this thing through the ringer and uh see what it does. We'll throw these wheels on, man. Let's Let's see what this thing looks like.
>> Oh, yeah. I'm excited.
A bit of a difference.
First fire up. See what this thing sounds like.
Boom.
>> Yeah, brother. I appreciate you, MAN.
THIS IS SICK.
>> LOOK AT THAT power >> control.
>> Oh, yeah.
>> Dude, thank you guys so much.
>> That was badass. I >> I know we were cranking for uh many of many hours on our weekend, too. First test S drive just violet black crazy different. We got to go clean it up and then we'll give you the full report on it. But already I mean like just looking at here it looks so much sicker. That's dope. Yeah, man. I appreciate you guys.
Listen, it's Mother's Day. Go get back to the wives.
>> We will tell them and I am sorry that I took you away.
>> No worries. Thank you guys.
>> No worries. I'll see you guys in a bit.
What up?
>> I see you went over to uh my boys over there at Hannah Race Design.
>> Yes, sir. This thing is a completely different truck. Oh, yeah.
>> I had no idea just how much chassis flex was in it before. It's fully planted.
Everything's super firm. And now the shocks, I guess, do all the work. I mean, we hit train, we hit a bunch of like gnarly potholes, and it used to like feel the cab like rocking on the body mounts and now it doesn't even do that. And the body mounts are still blown.
>> That's one thing that they do over there at Hen Race Design is add all that chassis stiffening in that really helps their suspension shine because your frame isn't flexing and twisting and doing all that stuff. So, it's really cool. It looks really, really good.
>> By the way, shout out to those boys, right? Because those guys are young, they're hungry, and they're kicking ass and like they do really good work. And it's crazy to see guys that are 30 and 27 willing to grind it out and build dope stuff. Stuff that actually like is topnotch. You're a professional in this.
Like you obviously prep like legitimate trophy trucks and you've been doing this your whole life, right?
>> Pretty much.
>> What's your take on this?
>> There's no better guys than those guys.
Same thing. They've been doing Raptor runs down in Baja their whole life. So they know these things like the back of their hands. They know the weak points.
They know what needs to be upgraded, what needs to be stiffened, and they know how to do it while looking good. I mean, look how good this thing looks.
Yeah, it actually looks way better with the 37. This is a perfect stance for these trucks.
>> You didn't skip leg day.
>> Yeah. And we didn't skip arm day, too.
Here's the deal. You want to see this thing smashing in the desert? And if you want me to scumbag Bailey into launching his into the stratosphere, if this video gets a quarter million views, I will make Bailey launch his truck. And I might even jump mine, too. 250,000 views. Scumbag everybody into it so we can get this guy to do something real dumb. And I'll probably do something dumb, too, because I'm an idiot. In order to do this justice, we really need to get it out in the desert. But this video is taking too long already. So, we're going to cap it here. We're going to test it and we are going to see what this actually does because it is phenomenal on the road. Doesn't shake anymore, stays straight, stays firm, feels sturdy. It's a completely different truck. So, I can't wait to see this thing go through some bumps and see what it's like. Maybe this time it won't misalign everything and knock the sunroof out. Still got to fix that. If you want to pick up any of these parts, there will be links in the description.
It'll have all the part numbers, link to Hannah Race Design, their website, and a little birdie told me that ADS may start stocking their arms, too. So, you might be able to get this entire thing as a kit with the ADS shocks from there.
Appreciate you guys watching. Make sure to subscribe and do all that. And uh yeah, go buy a t-shirt cuz the website should be live now.
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