Rotten Old Chassis Rescue ! Land Rover series 2 rear crossmember replacement. #oddlysatisfying

Added: 2026-05-08

[00:00:17]I win.

[00:00:25]Okay, today no messing about. I'm going to change this rear crossmember. Now, if you know that that's still the original crossmember, you can take measurements from here and put everything back in the same place, you'll know it's right. But if you suspect yours has been changed, then what you need to do is you need to check the door lines against the bulkhead and across the floor and then up the back of the tub and make sure everything is lining up. Otherwise, when you put your new crossmember on, you'll be putting it back in the wrong place the same as the last fella did. But yeah, it's too late for that now. So, let's have a quick look at door lines.

[00:01:05]That's what we're talking about. Now, if your door line is straight along the bottom there and here, then that's the bulkhead.

[00:01:15]If it's bulkhead's leaning backwards, then that door line will go down. So, these are nice and straight, and that's okay. So, what we're concerned with today is the tub. And if we don't get that tub on there flat, that tub's going to come forwards and wreck the door line, or it's going to tilt backwards and wreck the door line.

[00:01:34]This one's okay. Now, you don't actually have to take the tub off. You can leave it on.

[00:01:42]Don't expect these holes to line up.

[00:01:44]It's very unlikely that they will, but at least you'll know where it goes back and you haven't disturbed anything else.

[00:01:49]But what you will have there is you'll compromise your welding because you can't weld on the top of the chassis whilst the tub is on. Vince Punter 7504 left a comment on the last video and he agrees with me more than I do. He's a real smart guy. Everybody says so. And he said, "Why don't you just take the floor out? And if you just take the floor out, you'll be able to get your welds in at the top, but you won't mess up your door lines.

[00:02:19]And so here's one I prepared earlier.

[00:02:22]Get down, ship. So you can see that now you've exposed them. You haven't messed up your door lines and you can get to weld that side when you take the wheel off this side. Everything's there for you to get to. Little bit more awkward than taking it off all together.

[00:02:38]These old Land Rovers, remember, were as good as a handbuilt vehicle really. So this would come down the line, bulkhead fixed on, the doors on and aligned, and then the tub would go on. So here at the end of your sill is an upright, and there would be spacers in between there to move the tub back and forwards, but here on top of your outrigger is a fixed bracket. So you' fix to that. There's not really any adjustment on that at all. And then you would adjust it from the back. So we're in the factory now.

[00:03:12]We've got a nice straight line down there, that door line down the bulkhead and the door. And we've got ourselves a nice straight line here along the sill.

[00:03:23]Then bring along the tub. Put the tub on and it's fixed to that point. We can't adjust that point on the outrigger. You can fiddle with the end of the sill and move that a little bit up and down if you need to, but this is the important bit we're dealing with. So they then put the tub on here with that fixed point there. this pivots. And so if it's too high, you'll get a door seal like this.

[00:03:50]And if you have it too low, you'll get a door line like this.

[00:03:59]So to get this back in the same position, we need to know where that is and we need to know where the top of that is. to get our distance to know where this is. One way to do that is to take a measurement off that crossmember up there. But remember, clean the rust off first so that you get more accurate measurement. And then you can measure to the inside of this plate down here as low down as you can get or put a straight edge against the back of the crossmember and that's probably more accurate to measure to later.

[00:04:38]And then to measure how high up or down this goes, put a straight edge on there.

[00:04:45]The chassis is straight until it gets to here. And then find some. Obviously, this is all blown with the rust. So, find the lowest down point you can. You can either measure that with a tape measure or you can use calipers like that. Then you can lock them off.

[00:05:08]so that you still got the measurement for later.

[00:05:11]The next method, get a bit of angle iron and drop it in there. Then get some stiff steel, sit that on there.

[00:05:23]Tap weld that into position. Tap weld that onto the end. And then when you cut the chassis away, that's where you're heading for. That's your marker. You will have to clean all this up first and try and get rid of all these lumps and bumps so that it sits at the lowest point.

[00:05:43]Okay, I don't know anything about this.

[00:05:45]Now, this rear crossmember could have been replaced. I don't know whether the chassis is twisted like this or like that or even whether it's on the diagonal. So, I'm going to do some checks. Now, first thing I'm going to do is level up this chassis left to right.

[00:06:07]I've got a new toy for those hard to get to places.

[00:06:11]Was a tenner, two batteries.

[00:06:14]Let's see if it works.

[00:06:25]It's all right in an emergency.

[00:07:26]Okay. So, that's that sorted. That's level.

[00:07:45]So, I've been all the way along there now and I've taken off all the superfluous knobs and excrets.

[00:07:50]Let's put the level on it and see what we got.

[00:07:55]Okay, so here I am at the front, the first one I did, which is absolutely spot on.

[00:08:00]Cleaned off another bit here.

[00:08:03]And that is ever so slightly high to the left.

[00:08:12]Cleaned off another bit here.

[00:08:15]And that is sort of saying it's spot on.

[00:08:17]If anything, tiny little bit high to the left. So, what have we got on the crossmember?

[00:08:24]And the crossmember is saying it's a little bit high to the left.

[00:08:30]But when I say high to the left, you can see the bubbles just touching the line there. So that probably equates to about 3 mm on the that end. But if we look at this crossmember, it's curved.

[00:08:46]It's high in the middle, but it drops off at the ends. It'll be interesting to see if the new one's the same as that. I think that'll do us for now.

[00:08:59]All right. So, what have we got? We've already decided this one's shot. It's had too many repairs in the past. It's uh the toe bar has obviously been uh welded over here.

[00:09:21]So this add it holes there and then down the back here.

[00:09:41]Yeah, that's have it there. Excuse me, Mr. Mouse.

[00:09:50]That's pretty. There you go. Look, that's that's all gone there as well. Okay, so let's weigh up the options. Now, this one here is a a new old stock rear crossmember. It's a shorty one. These little bits here basically weld down onto that. Then the rest of the the end of the chassis goes into here and welds into that. But we have got repairs there.

[00:10:22]Then obviously all that that mouse hole.

[00:10:25]So I'm going to have to rebuild metal there. Also there's been repairs to that.

[00:10:34]And if we come around the other way again, you can see there's already been a lot of repairs gone on there.

[00:10:44]So, this is going to be the better option, which is a longer one that's got the spring hangers on it. So, the spring hangers there are going to be down here.

[00:10:56]And then, if we look at the top, we've got this bit here and that little outrigger part there.

[00:11:03]So, we're going to be cutting this chassis, be going into new metal here. And that if you look that's sort of the end of where the old rot is. And it'll be about here there. So it looks like we're going to put the long one on.

[00:11:21]The worst thing you can do here is cut this in the wrong place. So I've just dropped it on there. Now there's the slots. So I know I'm going to be roughly in that area.

[00:11:35]Not exactly, just roughly. And that's just to make sure that I don't accidentally do a wrong measurement later.

[00:11:44]If I'm measuring something and it's miles away from those lines, I know I've got it wrong.

[00:11:51]On that bottom crossmember, you remember when I put this uh level on as a straight edge, the ends of that one was going down. Well, this one you can see, is fairly straight all the way along. Before I was talking about getting a piece of metal and welding that through and then dropping some angle iron down onto the old um crossmember, but this piece of metal here, this flap is going to be coming over the top here. So, it's going to foul that. So, what I have to make sure is that either put something under this to lift it up or maybe I'll just see how level the actual tub supports are cuz there'll be two of them left. And if they're going in a straight line, I can just tack to them and I can use them and they are raised up like that. So, this piece of metal at the top here should slide straight under it.

[00:13:05]Okay, that's everything cleaned up. I've cleaned those brackets, cleaned the steel where it hits there, but I've got a bit of a problem.

[00:13:17]This distance here, I'm not quite catching the angle iron. So, what I'm going to do is put a piece of this underneath that to bring it up to the level.

[00:13:41]That then lands nicely on there. Now, these uh tub brackets uh are not exactly in line, but it won't make any difference to anything. As long as that they're welded there solid and this is welded to those, then when we cut this away, that is going to stay in position. The only thing I might put another little weld here once I know where I'm cutting just for a bit of extra strength to stop any bend at the ends. We're nearly ready to start sticking this lot in place. Now, this angle iron here, I pushed it backwards and the piece beneath it against those against those brackets.

[00:14:29]It's also flat down onto there and I've clamped it. And I then measured both pieces of metal from front to back here and they are accurate at this end to that end within a millimeter.

[00:14:44]I then measured all the way to the crossmember here on both sides downwards and that's accurate to within a millimeter. I've got a bit of a discrepancy in these brackets as they go down here, but I'm going for my absolute measurements. Now, we've got a little hole under here. So, once I've got that fixed, now I'll tack that in position onto this on two of those brackets that the tub sits on. The third one will be getting renewed on the new part. So, the only thing I might do, I'm cutting it here somewhere. So, the only thing I might do is put another little bracket just onto there just to give it a bit of extra support from there to there. So, let's get on with that. Just before I do start sticking this lot in, I'm going to um measure this and start the cut because once that's in there, it's going to make it hard for me to cut there. So, I'm just going to move those out of the way and cut whatever part I need to and then put them on.

[00:15:55]Right, I'm just going to mark these.

[00:15:57]This end here opens outwards. You can see the split in it there. You can see where the weld finishes. So, I'm just going to make a mark just where that weld finishes.

[00:16:13]Like that.

[00:16:21]Next, I'm going to measure from the back of the crossmember to that line just so that I get the measurements both the same. So, I'm going to choose whichever one is the longest. So, that's 41 and a half.

[00:16:34]And that one's 43.

[00:16:36]So, I'm going to measure from the back of the other crossmember forwards 43.

[00:16:43]And that's where I make my cut.

[00:16:50]Again, I'm just making a rough mark here now because I'm going to clean this up.

[00:17:07]Wire brush first to get all the loose stuff off.

[00:17:17]Next, a 40 grit flat disc to make it shine.

[00:17:27]And then I'll put my marks back on.

[00:17:44]Although we've gone square across the top of this, we don't know this the chassis box section is square. In fact, it isn't. You can see it isn't. If I do that and then that you can see it is nowhere near square. So the way you get around that is use a spirit level. So you go vertical this side and then when you go vertical down the bottom you can just join the two up at the bottom and you know they'll line up.

[00:18:17]If you try and do it with the square, by the time you get around the other side, the lines won't meet up.

[00:18:35]I've only cut as much as I needed to.

[00:18:37]There I've been I've resecked my measurements and I'm cutting it in the right place. Measured against there and I've disconnected the battery before I start welding. Have I forgotten anything else? I have forgotten something.

[00:18:52]Wiring.

[00:18:53]There's a good chance that your all your wiring comes up through this hole here.

[00:18:58]So, what you're going to need to do before you cutting this is you want to get it pushed back past that point. So get something metal like an old coat hanger or something, put it on the end of that and then push it down there as far as you can get it or go and find at the other end and try and pull it through out of the way. Once you've cut this off, then you can see it then. Um, and then you when you put the other bit back on, you can thread something through here and then bring it through.

[00:19:31]But again, you want something threaded through there that's metal or something because you're going to be welding. So, you don't want to melt your wire. While I'm here, mine doesn't come through there at all. If you remember when I was taking the tub off, this was threaded up through the braces underneath there. And I think that's fine. But this is trailer wire. It's what they wire up trailers with. So, everything you need is here for your back lights, fog lights, everything. It's on there. It's good stiff stuff. And you'll find when you are threading it back through because it's just a single thing like that, it's really easy to thread it back through afterwards. Or you could just run it over the top. I know it's not original, but if you're going to use your Landy, makes sense to change that to this and then you won't have things going wrong later.

[00:20:22]Really is so long since I did this. I'm not sure I remember how to do it.

[00:20:32]Right.

[00:20:34]Helmet's not working.

[00:20:36]Helps if you turn your helmet on.

[00:20:40]Can't see anything now.

[00:20:50]That's better.

[00:20:55]Right.

[00:20:58]Let's see if it's stuck.

[00:21:11]Oh, that feels Yeah, it's fine.

[00:21:23]That's going to be okay.

[00:21:31]Next thing I want to do is remove the shackles.

[00:21:35]They don't look like they're going to play ball, do they? Oh well, we make the effort.

[00:21:50]Oh, blew your neck, Ginger. That was easy.

[00:21:54]Never been seen before.

[00:21:56]Everybody says so.

[00:22:36]Shock absorbers get me every time.

[00:22:44]That's one.

[00:22:54]And that's two.

[00:23:13]Gotcha.

[00:25:13]I win.

[00:25:25]Okay. And there it is out there. Some wires they're attached to. Quite pleased with this. That's solid.

[00:25:36]No problem at all. Inch bar. That looks like that's good.

[00:25:46]That's all right. Doesn't look bad in there at all, does it?

[00:25:51]If they keep it strong.

[00:25:58]It's not too bad down that side either.

[00:26:01]Are the bits where they welded that bottom on though down the side.

[00:26:06]Okay. So, I think what I'll do now, these were being in the way in the dead stiff. I think I'll take those out and then I can at least regrease them and get them to work a bit better than they do.

[00:26:40]Now, so line that up at the back and then the front here.

[00:26:51]That way a little bit.

[00:26:58]Okay. So, we're lined up across the back there.

[00:27:03]And I've just lined that one up with the chassis. So, let's have a look. Is it going to fit? Oh dear.

[00:27:12]I'm not exaggerating that, but it's hanging over that much there. And it's over that much there. So, we're going to have to make some adjustments.

[00:27:26]So the outside of the new part is wider than the original chassis, but the inside therefore is narrower than the original chassis. So we've somehow got to bring that middle has got to come in to join up with that. So we'll have to bend those flaps out to make that happen.

[00:28:00]If I measure this top to bottom, that is 1250.

[00:28:12]That's not far off.

[00:28:15]Side 13.

[00:28:22]Okay. So, I'm just going to tap these bottom ones down a bit just to get me started.

[00:28:36]Okay, let's give it a whirl.

[00:29:04]Okay, let's have a look at what we've got. Let's see if it's jamming on the bottom.

[00:29:10]No, you can see it's quite a long way clear of that. So, that's fine. Here we are on the other side. You can see there's a big gap there. So, there's not binding on the bottom of the chassis.

[00:29:22]So, we're okay on the up and down.

[00:29:25]That's fine. There's plenty of room. So, what have we got left to right now? That one. That's That's all right. So, that looks okay. The other side. Oh, dear.

[00:29:39]So, the whole thing is too far this way.

[00:29:43]So, I'm going to have to put a step into that to allow that to go further this way. And then I'll have to put a step into that as well to allow that to go that way to balance it out.

[00:30:07]So, we're okay with the outside measurement onto the chassis, but the internal measurement is too narrow. So, what I reckon we've got is it's about seven or eight mm too narrow. These flaps now go in like that. What we've got to get them to do is come like that. So, if I draw that currently, we've just got a straight line which isn't going to fit. We need to put a step in it like that. I'm going to try and do that. Pull this flap down.

[00:30:43]Push that in. And when I push it backwards, because that's there, hopefully should give us that step.

[00:30:49]Let's have a go at that.

[00:31:00]So, we'll drop this wire in there. It's probably about 3 mil, something like that. Drop that into the gap. Pull it backwards. And we might get a step in it. We might not.

[00:31:18]There we go.

[00:31:22]Not quite as dramatic as I'd hoped, but you can see it has put a bit of a step in it. So, I'm going to do the other side and let's see if that's enough. If not, we'll just have to have another go.

[00:32:06]What a struggle.

[00:32:08]There's one on it here.

[00:32:16]Something funny going on. Went on before.

[00:32:33]Right. Have we achieved anything? Well, that one is still fairly in line. It looks like it's gone a little bit that way.

[00:32:43]And this one. Okay. So, we've got quite a long way to go.

[00:32:49]So, this one doesn't need to open up anymore because the whole thing needs to go that way. And for it to come this way, then that flap there has to have a bigger step in it. So, let's have a go at that.

[00:33:06]I'm going to try this this time. It's a bit thicker. It's more like 5 milish.

[00:33:14]Yeah. Ah, right. Let's try that.

[00:33:38]That's one.

[00:33:43]That's two.

[00:33:49]Okay, what you're witnessing here is an old joinery uh trick of the trade. If you want to know if something's catching and you can't see it, get a piece of paper and slide it in.

[00:34:04]When I slide that piece of paper in, there's my bend. You can see that it's not catching there.

[00:34:12]Let's try this side.

[00:34:15]If I go onto this side here that is catching down there at the bottom. I can see the chassis there and it's going past that easy. But look, it stops there. So, there's something fouling it here. So, that's the next place to have a look at.

[00:34:36]The other thing you can do is look inside for evidence of scraping. And you can see just there. And that's exactly where we've just found that with the bit of paper. Is there anything else? Well, the top obviously is scratch. And we're not worried about that because we know it's big top to bottom. There's another scratch just there.

[00:34:55]And that's on the top left hand side.

[00:35:01]This is the leg that goes on that part of the chassis. So that scratch there is on the outside which equates to that.

[00:35:11]But we're trying to get this thing to go that way. So we're concerned about what happens at this side of it.

[00:35:20]And as you can see that's where we're binding on that there.

[00:35:24]That.

[00:35:26]And so that is on that bottom corner. And look, it's where that big chunk of weld is. So, we'll clean that off as well.

[00:35:57]On this side, there's still a big gap there, but it is just catching down on that bottom corner. And then on this one, the chassis is on an angle like that to it. So, I've got to try and twist this one and knock that one out.

[00:36:14]This part of the chassis here, what's happening is it's it's coming down on an angle like that. This is the part that goes onto it and that is straight at right angles. So, what I need to do is twist this one like that. The only way to do that, make a relief cut here and then I can twist that part. And then, of course, I can weld all that in later.

[00:37:07]And then on this one here, now There's there's plenty of clearance for that to go that way. So, I think when I cut that one, the whole thing will just move sideways like that and it should go forwards.

[00:37:31]Right, that little star there is our target. You can see the gap here. We've got to go forwards. It's fairly level all the way along. And there's that.

[00:37:42]What's happening now is the part of this that is not cut is just banging up against the original chassis. So, what I'm going to do, I need to go forwards about 20 mil. So, I'm going to take this off, cut a slot in the chassis here, and then push that in. So, I've still got the metal there, and then the bottom part will be sticking out, and I'll trim that off. So, it should slide past that bit.

[00:38:11]I'm going to do that on both sides.

[00:38:14]So, I'm going to cut a slot here, right at the bottom. Push that chassis in. At the minute, that chassis is like that.

[00:38:21]And then that'll push that in and bring it to level. And then there'll be a little bit sticking out here, which I'll trim off.

[00:38:42]right? It's more like it.

[00:38:47]So, what I've actually done here is cut a dart out of it and then I split it at the bottom and I'll just bang that inwards. Now, let's see if that works.

[00:39:26]Yeah.

[00:39:45]Okay, that's now hitting the target all the way along. So, we're in that way enough.

[00:39:52]And I've braced it up here to get this to sort of start to line.

[00:39:58]But you can see there's a gap and then it's tight here. So it's wonky somehow.

[00:40:05]What we've got to look at now is whether we're forcing these bars up or anything. And when I look at the tub bracket here, that seems to be sitting on it. So we've got to investigate that.

[00:40:20]Okay. Okay. So, we can adjust anything, but we cannot adjust that jig. It has to sit exactly where it landed.

[00:40:27]Now, this is the back of the bracket for the tub, and it's touching on there. It's doing the same on the other side. Now, if you look at the level, it's touching there.

[00:40:43]And then as we come along, you can see there's a gap, which means there it is touching again.

[00:40:54]That means that that bar is being bent.

[00:40:58]So I think the only cure for this, this is all good is the same on the other side. That is sat right on there where it's meant to be. I think the best plan here, cut those brackets off, put all this back on, weld this up, and then at the end get a straight edge along here and weld that bracket back on. And if you remember, they weren't in a straight line before anyway.

[00:42:19]and yep.

[00:42:22]Yay, it's in. So, I easily lifted that up into its position there. The brackets on the back are slapper where they're meant to be. There might be a little bit of fiddling to do. These bars are now running straight. So, that is in its position. I'm going to mark here and clean all that area up ready for welding. And then I'll put it back on.

[00:42:47]And then I took loads of measurements from all different angles and wrote those down before I took the old crossmember off. So, I'll just check everything with that before I then weld it up.

[00:43:03]Does my button look big in this?

[00:43:13]So, at this point, I've shined up all the metal. I've had the vacuum cleaner as far down those chassis rails as I can get it. Um, that is weld through primer.

[00:43:24]I've just sprayed on.

[00:43:47]Okay. Position wise, that's it. The rear crossmember is perfectly level in that direction. These rails are running straight and in fact they're level as well. And then I've measured from that corner to that corner inside the chassis is 1,400. Put the tape across. Go the other way. That's 1400 as well. And that means that the whole thing is square.

[00:44:16]Next up is how we tackle the welding.

[00:44:18]Well, you can see that one at the back.

[00:44:20]That's nowhere near the chassis.

[00:44:23]This one here is is very close to the chassis and that's right in position.

[00:44:28]Drilled a couple of holes there. So, I could clamp that flat, weld up those holes, and that's that fixed in position. I can then come back. It's overhanging here. So, I can trim that off in line with the old chassis and then clamp that one back to where that one's meant to be. Same on there.

[00:44:51]This one's the same. The one on the inside is miles away.

[00:44:57]Then that is obviously going to need trimming just there. But we know that this lot's in position. So we can weld those through. Clamp that tight and weld those through there. And that'll hold everything in position. You can then clamp these sides on. Trim this trim this off in line with the chassis and clamp that side sideways. and just proceed like that. Right, I remembered to switch me helmet on this time.

[00:45:29]Didn't work though.

[00:45:49]Right, let's talk about the different ways of welding this on. Now, we'll start with the premium version, which is going to be an invisible butt weld. So, what you can do with that is tack it on like I've just done there. So, you know everything's in position, get your thin grinder, and cut that metal through both of them.

[00:46:12]Then you can push it in and weld it.

[00:46:15]Now, some people like to make that cut on an angle because the length of the weld is longer than it is if you go that way.

[00:46:29]Then for the top job, what you'll do is you could cut all that, undo it, take it off, and then take steel and weld it inside the chassis so that you create a spigot effect so that you've got your weld all the way around the edge. You can also make some sort of spot welds or something into that as well.

[00:46:54]Supersonically strong and invisible. So, if you're not going to go to all that trouble, the next thing you can do is you can cut across into there with your thin grinder.

[00:47:08]And that will give you more opportunity to weld this piece of metal to that piece of metal. You could also do just a couple of straight lines. It would increase the amount of weld you've got.

[00:47:21]I'm not that keen on that because you're creating a floppy part in the middle.

[00:47:28]of this section.

[00:47:30]So, what I do is I drill a couple of holes between six and 8 mil. So, they're going to when I weld those, they're going to work like spot welds. And if you ever try to get a spot welder apart, you will know that that's strong. But what this does for me is it allows me to clamp this piece of metal tight against the other part, weld it, hold it in place, but I haven't compromised any of these outer edges.

[00:47:59]So, here's mine so far. There's those two spot welds that is clamped to the chassis and it is fixed rock solid. The next thing I'm going to come along and do is I'm going to cut this metal. You can see it's hanging over there. I'm going to cut that just about a millimeter back from the edge and at the bottom. And then I'll go through the same process with this side. I'll clamp that really tight against the chassis.

[00:48:26]And then I will do the spot welds. And I'll end up with something like that.

[00:48:35]So that the this piece here is just showing say two three millimeters of the corner of that chassis and they'll be flat because I've clamped them down and welded them. And then I'll weld that whole lot in one go.

[00:48:54]I'll show you here on this old piece that I took off. If you look at the corner there, that is the thickest amount of metal there is anywhere on this chassis. So if you have your part at the top just there, and then you put your next part just there, and you weld all three of those at the same time, your weld isn't going to blow through any old metal or anything because it's super thick there. That is a fantastically strong weld.

[00:49:28]So when you consider that there's 4 in of weld here and there's four of those, that's 16 in. This length from here to here is 8 in. That's 16 in. So we're now at 32 in of weld plus eight spot welds.

[00:49:44]Well, I reckon that's fit for purpose.

[00:49:48]So, if you've got to the end of doing all that, first time you've ever done this, you've first time you've been welding, you're not very good at it, you're not very confident, you can always clean it so it's sort of smooth.

[00:50:01]Get a bit of angle iron and weld that over the two to strengthen it up. It's how strong it is that is important, not what it looks like. This channel is about learning and saving Land Rovers. And that's why you'll never hear me condemn someone or call it a bodgege job for work that they've done in the past. I do love laugh sometimes at the things I've seen, but the fact is that that repair done to whatever standard in the past could have saved this Land Rover from the scrapman.

[00:50:35]And so it's still here for us today. So if you do that and you don't like it, well in the future sometime when you've got more confidence and you've had more practice, you can come back to it, take it off and do it again. It's how we learn.

[00:51:02]So there we are. That's ready for welding.

[00:51:06]You can see there's a gap there filled.

[00:51:09]So I'll weld all of those three at the same time. Now what I've also done, if you look at the weld over here and you look here, I've extended that cut down into that weld. And that's simply so that when you look at it from here, so that I didn't get too much of an ex extreme dent in it, it sort of grades itself in a bit nicer.

[00:51:32]Right, I'm ready for welding. Now, all I've done here is I'll put a clamp on the top of this to get that as tight as I can to the chassis.

[00:51:47]So, there you are. That's that all welded up. I'll clean it off now.

[00:51:57]Right. So, that's it. There you are.

[00:51:59]Now, I could go back over it and fill in the holes. It's a flux core thing that this is the first one. It will take me a while to find the right uh temperature and feed settings. You can see where I I carried on with that cut. See there? I brought that cut down there. So, it just gives you a smoother line.

[00:52:20]Okay. I could give you another half an hour of grinding and welding and show you the finished job. There's no point to that. We've done everything we need to do. So, what you've got to do now, keep doing that. Keep clamping that tight onto the chassis as you do it. And then before you take this frame off, once you're halfway welded, you can take this frame out the way. But whilst you've got that in there and that's in a straight line, you might as well weld those tub brackets back on. And then in the video, I've been doing some editing and I noticed that when I leveled up the chassis, I didn't really show you that.

[00:52:56]I just dropped it onto the uh onto this timber here and it looked like it magically leveled itself up. Well, it didn't. If you look carefully down here, you can see some little bits of metal.

[00:53:07]So, what I had to do was just jack it up a bit, put a shim in, drop it down, jack it up until, and that's what I did. I shimmed it up there to get it to level.

[00:53:16]And the other thing I've got to show you, because this crops up all the time, these are the shackles uh off the leaf springs. Now, this end slides up and down. This is the end with the nut on. And the nut goes on the outside. When you take the nut off, this one is actually threaded on there. So, you can bang that as hard as you like.

[00:53:38]It will not come out. You've got to wind it out.

[00:53:42]Well, there's been an awful lot of talking in this video, and as you know, that's not really my thing. But I have to take the time to say thank you to Neil Mloud, David Russell, and Skunkola who sent me a super thanks. I'm absolutely amazed. Super thanks to you.

[00:54:00]Thanks very much. I've also received my first subscribers gift. And this is from a fella called Oki Rover. And he is in Oklahoma. And it is a very very smart tie that comes in a proper box like that. Quality sir, I thank you.

[00:54:27]So that's his channel. He plays about with old Range Rovers if you want to go over there and have a look at him. And as for us, thank you very much to everybody who hyped last time. I think I was up to 127,000 hype points. Now, there is a hype 100, the top list of 100 videos that have been hyped. So, if you all hype three times, which you can do it, then let's see if we can get in that list. As for me, see you next time.

[00:54:54]Thanks for watching.