DEAN SMITH AND GRACE LATHE REPAIRS . Part 29 .

Added: 2026-05-21

[00:00:03]Well, good day. Max here again. Welcome back to the shop and continuation of our Dean Smith and Grace repairs. So, uh, first up, this video probably take the whole video. Uh, we're going to concentrate on getting the ugliness removed from our carriage hand wheel. I would, you know, like to save it because it is the original, um, hand wheel for the machine. So, um, we'll get her off and we'll head over to the, uh, welding bench and make a plan of attack.

[00:00:40]All right, we'll get her off.

[00:00:45]Um, this screw here, thumb screw, is just the locking part of the locking mechanism for the dial that's on the rear.

[00:00:56][snorts] Should slip off.

[00:01:08]Want to keep that back in there because there's a a plunger set up inside. Uh, I don't want to lose.

[00:01:16]That's just the lock for the dial. You can rotate it to wherever you want it. Okay. So, let's head over to the bench. And yeah, she's been through the wars, this one.

[00:01:31]So, this thing has cpped some severe damage over the years, and there's a lot of weight in this, too. So, every part of it's been uh broken, snapped off at some stage.

[00:01:46]welded, braced, missing.

[00:01:52]So, what we need to do is what our plan is when I want to remove this handle out of the equation so we're not tripping over it. And it's had quite a large uh riveting job on the back. So, we need to remove that. and then we'll deal with the refitment of that later when it's required.

[00:02:16]So, we'll get rid of that.

[00:02:20]First up, I want to ignore everything that's going on in the center.

[00:02:25]And then I want to concentrate on the outer diameter, going over some of these previous repairs, smoothing them out, and filling them in where required.

[00:02:40]Um, then we'll get all this back smooth.

[00:02:46]Hopefully, it will still be flat. I think it it's The outside is actually not too bad, but it it wobbles on its shaft when you're rotating it cuz the hub's all out of whack cuz of all these spokes. So, that's the plan. I'll get this handle off first.

[00:03:30]So, we can see a difference in the color of the material there from our handle.

[00:03:34]So, we just got to hope there's not a great big uh counter sink uh behind that that is riveted into. So, we'll just give that a gentle tap and have a look.

[00:03:46][snorts] Yeah, there's a slim chance we might be lucky, but I'm not holding their breath.

[00:03:53][clears throat] Yeah, I might actually grab the die grinder and just hollow the center of this out a bit.

[00:04:30]So, if I get this in the right light, I am starting to see a bit of a suspicious line around a couple of points on the outside of it there where it's trying to move.

[00:04:42]So, if I hollow the center out, hollow some of that out with a die grinder, uh, may give us uh, our best chance.

[00:05:17]Okay, we're starting to get a bit of a definitive line around it now. So, I'll give it a couple more taps. Might need a bit more uh grinding away as well.

[00:05:56]>> [music] >> It's got it.

[00:06:19]Yeah, had a uh you can see the relief shamfer on the edge of the hole. So that gives the uh gives it a space for peened material to go into and yeah, the end can be um ground back flush once it's in.

[00:06:37]Okay, step one.

[00:06:40]So, I think what I'm going to do next, these existing welds that have been put on here, I'm going to just grind them back level because they do stick out a bit [snorts] and I don't want them to because it's impeding me. I want to check and see how flat this outer ring actually is. So, let me just get these ground back a bit.

[00:08:02]It's actually not bad, but I can see the angle that hovers on in the middle there. But we're we're I mean the outer is out a little bit, a couple of millimeters, but uh we'll just blend that in. I'm not going to rebre this. It's close enough for blending.

[00:08:26]you know, like this edge is head sitting a bit higher than this one on the top and yeah, but okay. So, what we could uh fill this in with nickel.

[00:08:44]I'm not going to braze it because I've run out of oxy. I have to go and get some more.

[00:08:53]Let's just touch this.

[00:08:56]I just want to see this material that we're working with the basement. You know, the cast there.

[00:09:33]I was just doing a bit of a spark test there just to see how this material sparked compared to my steel bench because as I've played with previously with this material on this DSG.

[00:09:49]Um, I did find, you won't believe it, but it actually welds remarkably good.

[00:09:56]um with a MIG welder, standard MIG welder. [snorts] Um just standard mold steel wire without any problems, you know. And it's it's just one I think I said before I did hear somewhere that the cast iron at DSGU did have a um a fair bit of steel content in it. Um let me just go and get a piece of cast iron. We'll just do a a comparative spark test. Heat.

[00:10:41]Heat.

[00:11:01]Yeah, it does have the shorter sparks and that. So, [snorts] I do have some um nickel rods I could use.

[00:11:18]But, you know, there's a lot of cavities and porousness in this, too. And the other thing I found welding some of the other when I welded the other tray, which I haven't got on video, um, with the MIG, it was easier to deal with all any of the crap that came out of the iron.

[00:11:42]So, you know, we're going to try this uh with the MIG welder.

[00:11:48]Yeah, I know there's a million people say, you know, you can't do it, but in actual fact, you can do it depending depends on what's in the cast iron. And I know because I've done it before. It's not a high strength repair that's required. This is a cosmetic repair.

[00:12:05][snorts] So, let's just try it and see how we go.

[00:13:25]Okay. So, we just do a little bit at a time.

[00:13:29]So, we'll stop. So, we've just done that bit there. So, we'll stop and let this cool down till I can comfortably hold my hand on it. Then, we'll go back and do a bit more. You don't want to get too much heat into this all at once.

[00:13:42]And that's why I'm not preheating this either. You know, spokes, it's uh it's one of these things that it will just want to crack, I think. So, yeah, we'll just go a little bit at a time. Um I think we'll uh it's it is taking the welds welding. Okay. So, um fingers crossed.

[00:14:04]Okay. There's not a lot I can film doing this cuz it's a lot of um build up, weld, grind back, clean up. So, we've got most of the outside completed. So, that's uh was this area here.

[00:14:23]So, it will need its final leveling and polish.

[00:14:28]And then I've got material to remove here. And the other one was getting here we are this area here.

[00:14:46]So that's coming up very well.

[00:14:49]So I'm just about to start filling in uh these holes here. There's a big gnarly looking thing [snorts] down there, but we got a lot of weld to go over it. So, we'll probably just go over the top of it.

[00:15:09]And likewise here, I do have a bit to grind out here for this one.

[00:15:14]And uh we just need a bit of fill in this one. I will grind a top off it. And then we'll put a bit of material into uh that one before we take it back.

[00:15:26]So yeah, the idea I just want to get the whole um ring completed and then start work our way on in on the spokes. So we make sure these areas here are all correctly filled in to the right profile. Uh lucky we've got this one here to match. So we'll get that one in.

[00:15:51]The welds on the hubs, we worry about that last. And we got another spoke to make here yet. So yeah, I'll keep plotting away. I'll just do a bit and let it cool back down then into rim.

[00:16:03]I've been doing a bit of work on the tailtock. So let's get a bit of weld in here. Then head over to the tailtock.

[00:16:11]But the MIG welder is taking to this beautifully. There's no problem whatsoever filling this in. Going over the top of all this other crap that was here.

[00:16:26]So yeah, it's working. Um, working great. Try it before you knock it, you know, give it a go on nonstructural something. Yeah. All right. But we'll uh vary on different, you know, formulas of cast iron, but uh don't dismiss it right out of form, you know.

[00:16:47]Okay.

[00:17:26]Heat. Heat.

[00:18:43]>> [snorts] >> Yeah. Slowly, bit at a time, we'll build up that bottom radius.

[00:19:00]So it matches that one and that one.

[00:19:04]So we'll let this cool off and then we'll come over to this um piece of ugliness over here. We'll have to grind a uh bit of this away so we can get a bit of weld decent weld into it. Once we've done that, then we'll tackle this area here. But little bit at a time, let it cool back down again and uh should be good.

[00:19:29]So, I've got all the bits cleaned up for our tailtock. And uh if you recall uh last video, I was weighing up or just thinking about doing a modification to the base, you know, with the cam to bias the base across to one side just so the tailtock locks up in the same position in alignment all the time. But prior to that, someone did mention to me that the bolts um the way the bolts are set up um when you tighten the locking bolts for the tailtock uh which are these, they will bias it over and push it over. So, I wanted to put that to the test and see if um if that is so or not because that will determine whether I go ahead with this cam and plunger down there. So, [snorts] um, we need to get it together.

[00:20:25]Uh, it won't be its last assembly because we do not know the true height, how much is worn off the base. So, we need to get a height measurement with the headstock and we cannot get a definitive measurement from the headstock until the work on the headstock is complete.

[00:20:49]Um, we don't know. This is the plane bearing headstock. So, we don't know what's going to be involved yet with the headstock bearings, whether there's any scraping involved. And I hope there isn't. Um, and that. So, this can be tackled on its own some once Yeah. all that's assembled and we've got a definite uh number to work to that way. Otherwise, we don't know where we're going. So, we're just going to assemble it all up. make sure what we got does work, does fit, and we have all of their parts. So, um, let's get it together.

[00:21:26]So, I've got the clamps. I'll bring you in a bit closer.

[00:21:32]So, these are the locking half clamps that go underneath and they only fit one way, which is this way here.

[00:21:43]Now they are thicker on one side than the other. So whether that's something to do with putting the bolt on the correct angle or something.

[00:21:53]So it does actually pull the tailtock over against this in a way here to lock it. You know, of course you don't get that problem on a uh a V bed machine where the tailtock runs on the V. A lot of flatbed lathes had a V for the tailtock, but um not this early one. So, if we bring this down to about here, put a bit of um oil on the faces and lift the other part on.

[00:23:22]Okay, now have the adjuster bolts in.

[00:23:32]So these go through either side and uh these are for your offset.

[00:23:55]>> [snorts] >> And then the uh big uh through bolts go in for the keepers.

[00:24:57]washer.

[00:25:00]Just going to throw a bit of oil on the face of that washer where the nut pulls up.

[00:25:39]And the nut.

[00:26:08]>> [snorts] [snorts] >> Okay.

[00:26:44]Okay. So, so far so good. Uh, we've got this one filled and blended.

[00:26:53]I'll be a bit more could come out of this corner here.

[00:26:56]The outside done. Your opposite side of it is done.

[00:27:04]Uh the other area was around here just in there. So that's all uh filled and blended. It's come out very well. So the next thing we got to look at is how we're going to tackle this inner hub.

[00:27:31]So, we know it's sitting on an angle. [snorts] So, what I think I'm going to do first, we're going to just grind down all these welds at a flush.

[00:27:54]Uh, this one's where it's been brazed across here is going to be a bit more problematic. We've got to get rid of all that brace. It's got to go.

[00:28:07]This one's already cracked through here.

[00:28:10]So, uh, we'll just chase that crack down a bit further.

[00:28:15]We'll get rid of all of that, all that bronze. So, this will be, um, we'll get to the base of the original crack.

[00:28:24]We actually needed them to separate so we can adjust the location of this hub.

[00:28:30]And then we got to remove a fair bit of this weld here.

[00:28:37]And likewise through on the other side here. Um, I'm in half a mind at this stage, but to make a new hub, but I want to get rid of all this weld first and just get a better picture of what we're dealing with. Uh, that's bronze on the top that's got to go.

[00:29:00]Um, it's a possibility I may make another hub. Um, now inside the bore on this one, I don't know, you might see it. There's a blooming great hole there. So, we're not sure what's going on there. So, um, I'll grind this up and bring you back.

[00:29:24]Well, okay. I did a bit more grinding on this thing and I I separated the center section. I had to to get in there. Um, big gap, lots of gaps to fill in, but we've got it centralized as best we can. Big gaps be a great candidate for bronze welding. This would be excellent for bronze welding, brazing this up. But, uh, we are going MIG welder. It same as what we did in the other areas, you know, around here and around here.

[00:30:05]It worked out good here too for color match, you know, cuz this has still got to be polished.

[00:30:10]So, uh, we may end up with the same result here.

[00:30:16]Let's, um, I'll go and weld it up off camera and, u, um, during and see how we go.

[00:30:28]Okay, first side done.

[00:30:33]stringer runs only, no weaving.

[00:30:40]Okay, I'm just letting our welding um cool down for a bit before I continue on with that.

[00:30:46]So, um, I'm just checking the Morse taper in the end of the tailtock quill.

[00:30:57]And I can feel just with a tapered sleeve, I can just feel a little bit of rock in it, you know.

[00:31:05][snorts] Let's try the drill chuck.

[00:31:22]And I'm feeling the same with this.

[00:31:27]So I just want to put a reamer down and just clean the MOS tape for bore up a little bit.

[00:31:42]You can sort of feel it a bit in this too, like it's gripping down the bottom but not up the top. And I'd rather do it um I don't want to do it in a machine because I don't want anything to influence the reamer. I want the reamer to guide itself into the tapered hole.

[00:32:00]So, we're just going to use the radial drill. Just swing the arm over just so I can just put a little bit of pressure down on the reamer.

[00:32:18]Now, let me just go and get a small nut.

[00:32:20]I do not want to use the there is a center [snorts] in the end of the quill there, but it's anyone's guess if that is actually true to the cutting edges of the reamer.

[00:32:37]So, I'm just going to put a small nut there.

[00:32:41]That way [snorts] we're not going to influence I'll get it close. But just try a small nut there. I only want to take a little whisker out. So we'll just see how we go.

[00:33:07]Bit of cutting oil.

[00:33:40]Bit more cutting oil.

[00:33:54]Okay, let's see what we got here.

[00:34:16]Well, we've removed some material, so >> [snorts] >> Let's have a uh I actually think it has improved it a touch.

[00:35:13]We need to keep going.

[00:35:16]See if I can get you a look down the ball.

[00:35:24]A bit to go yet.

[00:35:30]>> [snorts] [snorts] >> Definitely uh improving.

[00:37:45]>> [snorts] [sighs] >> We'll go um I'll go a bit more.

[00:39:07]Okay, this is going to take a few cycles, so we'll bring you back with the finished result.

[00:39:13]Well, I thought we were on a roll with this, but about oh 60 70 mm down.

[00:39:23]There's a there's a bit of a hard spot in there. It's where something's rotated before and picked up. So, I just put a bit of blue on here. We'll be able to see it goes. Yeah, it's a whole ring.

[00:39:44]And that's what our tape is rocking on.

[00:39:46]It's rocking on that ring, which is [snorts] that clear spot there and transfers.

[00:39:59]It's all the way around. So, we need to remove that ring. Otherwise, we're going to be getting uh nowhere.

[00:40:07]So rather than reach down, it's about that level there. I'm not going to reach down there with a die grinder. That's a bit too budgy even for me.

[00:40:27]So what I'm thinking of doing, uh, we might set this up in the lathe.

[00:40:33]We'll set our compound over to the Creek Morse taper angle and we'll just relieve that ring that's down inside.

[00:40:44]So, it's not the it's that larger complete circle there. That's our issue there. We need to relieve that.

[00:40:52]The little humps and bumps in there, the little hollows are not giving us any trouble, but it's that ring. So, that has to go.

[00:41:02]The other thing too, this Morse taper needs to be really good because it doesn't have the ejection slot in it for the ejecting tang.

[00:41:13]You know, that's a double purpose. It It will stop your tool if you've got the tang. It will stop your tool rotating if your MOS tapers aren't that flash. You know, it will lock them. So, I'm not interested in the arguments two and four against that, but um I know that it will stop a Morse taper spinning. And um those of us that have dealt with Morse tapers for many, many years with large loads on them will tell you exactly that it will stop them rotating. I mean, if it didn't, you wouldn't have any drill bits and sleeves with chewed up ends, would you? So, I think what we'll do is we'll get this um set up in the coal chest. We'll angle the coal compound around. We'll relieve that little bit. This has a keyway, but there's there's about 12 mm of clear diameter where a steady roller will run.

[00:42:21]So, I think that's our plan. Let's get it done as properly as we can or as best as we can.

[00:42:32]Okay, we're all set up the uh with the steady rest. So, we'll just take a whisker out that uh gnarly area on that Morse taper ball.

[00:42:45]You know, if I had a Morse taper five reamer, I'd seriously consider taking this to Morse Taper 5. And I it will share tooling with the Colchester that way as well. And then I would cut the ejection slot in it as well.

[00:43:06]We'll see. Not going to happen at the moment, but it's a possibility for the future.

[00:43:15]So, I need to go in 52 mm, which is there.

[00:43:31]Adjust the camera.

[00:43:35]You guys aren't really going to see a great deal.

[00:43:39]So we just wind across slide across till we touch about there.

[00:44:02]Oh, coming on the compound.

[00:44:17]That's one millimeter.

[00:44:27]2 mm.

[00:44:47]Just going to That's 3 mm.

[00:45:03]Just trying to see if I can have a visual and I can't see anything.

[00:45:15]Okay, I'll keep going. Another couple of millimeters.

[00:45:53]We'll have a look at that.

[00:46:07]Okay, I'm just going to put the reamer through just to take make sure there's no burrs on either side, you know, no raised edges of where we just cut that little relief in.

[00:46:53]Give it a clean out.

[00:47:03]Yeah, if this was number five with the ejection slot, it would be absolutely perfect.

[00:47:22]Cuz all the tooling on this machine is uh number five.

[00:47:27]Bit heavy. But that's sitting in there nice. I can't feel that wobble anymore.

[00:48:02]That's as good as we're going to get.

[00:48:04]That's really good. That uh there's a darker band right there.

[00:48:11]That's our relief groove.

[00:48:14]All the rest we've got contact all the way.

[00:48:18]Okay.

[00:48:21]That's a good result. So, um, this can come out.

[00:48:30]I'll blow some air through in case there's any chips get in the thread at the end. Uh, we do have one more turning job to do for this steady uh for this tailtock.

[00:48:42]Um, but let's get this out of the lathe first and back in to its housing where it belongs.

[00:49:04]Bit oil up the bore.

[00:49:17]um because of the key way and there's a key just inside.

[00:49:22]Uh it's about 2 in long. It's captive key inside in the front here. So, we've got to go in from this way. Okay. So, I've got to sort of lean over to get her in >> [snorts] >> Toy.

[00:50:25]seem to be lined up that I can see.

[00:50:35]There we go.

[00:50:43][snorts] Okay, beautiful.

[00:50:57]Um, yeah, I think we can put the locking arrangement in now.

[00:51:10]So the arrangement to lock the quill, it's it's a generic type. Two sleeves come together with a semicircle cut out and sort of pinch the tailtock quill. Not same sort of setup like a a Bridgeport milling machine.

[00:51:36]Just oil everything up.

[00:51:51]Now these are keyed together.

[00:52:02]Uh [snorts] generally your lock faces or your handle faces the rear.

[00:52:18][snorts] But we should really be consulting the manual to make sure because that long since I pulled this apart, I cannot remember.

[00:52:54][snorts] Okay, we're going to have some interference there.

[00:53:10]Now, let me just consult the manual just to make sure that lever does go to the rear.

[00:53:16]And it does face the rear. Um, there's this pin that goes I'll just screw this pin in on a temporary basis because I want to clear coat it. And that's the stop for the lever.

[00:53:33]So on the other side there's an adjuster which if I put set of circlip pliers in, I can do this nut up and get that lever sitting in the correct position.

[00:53:49]So do this nut up a couple of turns about there.

[00:54:10][snorts] Perfect.

[00:54:17]That's our qu locked.

[00:54:26]Yep. Beautiful.

[00:54:30]Okay, that's another piece of the puzzle sorted.

[00:54:36]So, I'll just pull this back out. Get a bit of clear coat on it just to stop it rusting, you know.

[00:54:46]Okay.

[00:54:50]And our oilers arrived from England. A bit bigger than what's originally on there, but it's all I can get uh with the correct threads and they hold a bit more oil than the original ones.

[00:55:06]Okay, quick progress um update on our hand wheel. It is coming together uh slowly.

[00:55:15]So, we this hub center section has to be remachineined.

[00:55:21]Um I haven't worried about the other spoke as of yet. I probably won't.

[00:55:28]And still got a bit to fill in here.

[00:55:33]and all the rest has come up um quite good considering what it is and how we are doing it.

[00:55:44]Okay. So yeah uh this will continue on into the next uh video and the one after that no doubt it will make another appearance.

[00:55:54]Oh okay we'll bring this one to a close here. Um yeah, bit by bit we are working our way through all the small details and uh making good forward progress. So anyway, thanks for watching and yeah, hopefully see you in the next um installment.

[00:56:16]Cheers.