Speaker building requires understanding that speakers need baffles and enclosed boxes to prevent back wave cancellation, and successful designs depend on matching driver characteristics to appropriate enclosures, using proper configurations like D'Appolito for mid-range drivers, and ensuring center channel speakers match the timbre of main speakers for seamless sound reproduction.
Deep Dive
Prerequisite Knowledge
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Deep Dive
Speaker Builds OverviewAdded:
[music] >> Welcome to another edition of my audio project series.
In this video, I will discuss the various speaker build projects that I've done over the years starting at a very young age.
This is just an overview.
If there's enough interest and more details, I can do other videos with more specifics on speaker building.
Please leave a comment if interested, otherwise I will consider this video enough.
Early in my childhood, I was always attempting to make sound improvements to my audio listening devices.
At that time, this was essentially a portable record player.
Since my dad sometimes repaired TVs for people, we had spare parts lying around, which included various speaker drivers that he pulled from various TVs.
I thought it would be a good idea to connect a number of these to my record player using the headphone output jack.
My dad saw this and explained that it wouldn't work well because the speakers require a baffle and a closed box to prevent the back wave of the speaker from canceling out the front wave.
We proceeded to the basement where we built a small box out of scrap wood.
This was my first speaker build.
From that point on, I was hooked.
For Christmas that year, I asked for speaker drivers and a crossover from Lafayette Radio and my dad helped me build my next generation speaker.
I still have it till this day.
Over the years, my interest in speaker building and speaker mods continued.
I ended up modifying my KLH 17 speakers while in college due to me continuing blowing the tweeters.
After college, I was determined to do my first real quality speaker build. With limited woodworking skills and equipment, my approach was to purchase ready-made speaker cabinets and add the drivers and crossover network.
At that time, there were a number of companies providing components to the DIY speaker enthusiast.
KEF speakers at that time were one of my favorites.
And they had a line of drivers and construction plans for speakers. It was called their constructor series.
So, I purchased a pair of speaker cabinets from Speakerlab and a set of KEF drivers, which included the T27 tweeter, B110 mid-ranges, and a pair of B200 woofers.
With my handy Black & Decker jigsaw, my only piece of equipment at the time, I cut the holes for the drivers. I used some plastic storage containers that fit the B110 holes for the mid-range enclosures and built the crossover network built on KEF's recommendations.
The result wasn't bad.
These remained my main speakers for a number of years.
I'd always had an itch, though, to improve upon these.
Some years later, I had a co-worker who was into woodworking, and he needed some speakers.
So, I agreed to design him a pair if he would build me he a new set of speaker cabinets.
My original Speakerlab cabinets were too small for the KEF drivers I was using, so being able to have a custom-built cabinet to match the drivers was awesome.
It was also an opportunity to improve upon my original design.
I ended up purchasing another pair of B110 KEF drivers and configured the driver orientation into a D'Appolito configuration.
I have spent many years working on this crossover design and making improvements to these, and it continues to be an ongoing project.
Jumping forward to my early home theater years drove me to build my first subwoofer.
It was essentially a failed experiment, but I learned a lot.
The design was a symmetrically loaded or bandpass design.
In this design, there's a rear sealed enclosure followed with a ported enclosure located in front of the driver.
This is similar to the KEF 104.2 design.
It measured as predicted, but suffered from excessive port noise or chuffing at the lowest frequencies.
My choice of subwoofer driver made the port diameter too narrow and long, resulting in the excessive noise.
This shows the importance of matching the speaker driver to the proper enclosure.
For my next subwoofer project, I looked at existing subwoofers in the marketplace.
I was drawn to the Sunfire True Subwoofer.
Instead of a port, the speaker uses a passive radiator design, which replaces the port with a drone cone.
The drone or passive radiator is identical to the main driver, but without a voice coil or magnet assembly.
I found a Sunfire True Subwoofer driver on eBay, and then purchased a passive radiator directly from Sunfire. I then built a 1 cubic foot box to hold the drivers.
For an amplifier, I used a WS600 amplifier from D2 Audio that I had designed with built-in DSP functionality.
>> [clears throat] >> It worked great. It was my main home theater subwoofer for many years.
Subwoofer project number three.
While working at D2 Audio, I was working with a customer in the Dallas area who was designing a sound studio.
They were having a custom subwoofer driver designed for it, and we got on the subject of building speakers.
He offered to send me one of the subwoofer drivers, and I took him up on his offer.
It was a massive 18-in driver with a single voice coil and multiple spiders.
It sat in my garage for years waiting me to build a cab for it.
After retirement, this is one of my first projects.
Rather than build a cabinet myself, I turned to Parts Express and found a 4 cubic foot knockdown cabinet that would work perfectly with this driver.
The results were quite good. I used the same D2 audio amplifier that I used for the Sunfire subwoofer.
This continues to be my home theater subwoofer today.
Another build I did was back in the CRT monitor computer days where the speakers needed to be shielded so as to not interfere with the CRT monitors.
I wanted a pair of speakers to connect to my PC and I came across the zero gauss design from Vifa speakers that utilized their M13 SG-09 shielded 5-in midwoofer and a D19 TD-03 tweeter.
I built a cabinet per the specified dimensions including the port on the output to the back.
I wanted them to be powered and I found a cheap Sony XM 2020 car amplifier at Crutchfield.
I then built a simple 12-V brick external power supply to power it.
I then added the Radio Shack equalizer preamp.
The amplifier is built into one of the speakers and drives the other speaker which is passive. It sounded great.
It's one of the better speaker monitors I have heard.
During my home theater build, I needed a center channel speaker to go with my Ohm I main speakers.
In designing a center home theater speaker, the driver characteristics should match the timbre of the main speakers to maintain seamless sound across the center stage.
This meant the drivers needed to have a similar composition to the ones in the Ohm I.
For a center channel tweeter, I found the same Ohm I tweeter on tweeter on eBay.
For the midranges, I found a pair of Jensen dome midranges also on eBay.
And for the woofers, I used two 6-in paper cone drivers from Parts Express that seemed to be a good match to the Ohm I 8-in drivers.
I then I the enclosure putting all the drivers horizontally in a symmetrical configuration.
This driver orientation makes things a bit complicated from a crossover perspective, but being able to utilize a D D2 audio DSP based amplifier helped tremendously.
The amplifier and power supply are built into the cabinet.
My latest tuning came out so good that I didn't even know the front main speakers were off accidentally when watching a movie recently.
The sound of the center channel was that good.
That's it for my speaker build history overview.
Again, if there's enough interest, I can provide more details for the specific builds or just more general info on speaker building if those are interested.
Thanks for watching.
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