This video masterfully exposes the industrial shortcuts behind global prestige, proving that mass production often sacrifices artisanal soul for scalability. It serves as a sharp reminder that true value lies in the precision of the process rather than the thin veneer of the finish.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
I Made Better Olympic MedalsAdded:
Is it possible for a regular guy to make Olympic medals?
>> All right, moment of truth.
>> I think it's working.
>> And even better than the originals. Ever since I was a little boy, I've been obsessed with the Olympics. The speed.
>> Is it 3/10 of a second? Yeah. Yes, it is.
>> The power on.
>> The drama.
>> Unbelievable. AT THE END, HE'S DONE IT.
The problem is around 10 years ago I started hating the medals. I just feel like these modern designs don't have any love put into them. Can you imagine training your whole life to get to the Olympics and this is what you get?
So, I'm going to see if a normal guy like me can take on a billion dollar organization and make better medals than them. But it wasn't easy. We use just about every tool in our shop to make Olympic medals from scratch in raw bronze, sterling silver, and actual gold.
I'll start out with the bronze metal.
None of my local metal supply stores carry bronze, and all the pieces I could find on eBay were exorbitantly expensive. So, I guess it's time to take all my forging skills I learned these past few months.
Oh no. Oh no. And make my own.
Modern-day bronze is made using nine parts copper to one part aluminum. Now that's a lot of copper. But luckily, there's a construction site nearby. And if I learned anything from my time as a crackhead, it's that these places are full of copper if you know where to look.
Fortunately, I don't need much aluminum, and I already have some pieces I can use. So, I'll just put it all in the crucible with the correct ratio of copper. To melt copper, you have to hit 1984Β° F.
It has such a legendary melting point that my favorite author, George Orwell, wrote a book about it. While that was heating, I grabbed my casting sand and my magnesium rod and started pounding it.
That left me with a nice deep mold to pour my bronze into. I made it deep so when the bronze shrinks as it cools, I'll still be left with a nice usable puck. The copper and aluminum are all melted together now, so it's ready to be poured. And it was so hot.
It was so bright my camera couldn't even adjust the exposure to see it. It actually lit the casting sand on fire and it was doing a cool pulsating blue flame. The next day it was nice and cool, so I took it out of the mold. It was looking pretty good, so I took it over to the lathe and I started shaving it down little by little.
It was really rough, so I could only take off a little bit at a time.
It's looking pretty smooth, so I'll make sure to drop it and put some big dents in it. It was actually surprising to me how soft it was, but now I know that for later. Then I took it to the water jet and used a nailed board to keep it upright. I got it all lined up and I was surprised to see that there's already a setting for aluminum bronze. You'll notice the water comes out of the jet in a cone shape. So that makes it really hard to make nice straight cuts.
Although it isn't the perfect tool for the job, the water jet is the easiest way to cut a big disc like this in half.
You know what? I was worried that was going to roll away, but it didn't go anywhere. Uh-oh.
Looks like our casting was worse than we thought. I think this half should be good, though.
I'm hoping that doesn't go all the way through. That is the true power of bronze shrinking. I tried my hand at some blacksmithing, but I don't think it really smoothed out the dents at all.
So, I took it back to the lathe and smoothed out the uneven surface the water jet left on it.
I noticed a cool pattern in the metal.
And when I took it off the lathe, it looked even more cool. The rainbow coloring comes from the way the lathe cuts it, but I have no idea where the cool grain structure pattern comes from.
Okay, now we have the bronze blank we're going to use, but we have to actually decide what we want our metal to look like. I spent a few hours looking at all the metal designs from every single year. I thought it would be cool to make the 2002 Salt Lake City Olympics medals because I was there, but then I looked at them and realized that would be a bad idea. So, I thought to myself, what did the first ever Olympic medal look like?
I went all the way back to 1896, passing some cool designs on the way, but I think this design has to be top three. I mean, come on. This Greek god holding an apple on the front and the city of Athens on the back with the parthonon shining on a hill. Does it get much better than this? We could still be rocking this design to this day and I don't think people would be complaining.
It's a beautiful, timeless design, but I definitely don't have the skills to do something like that by hand. So, we're going to have to use the CNC mill. I also don't have the skills to do that on the CNC. So, I'm going to have to put together a team. Introducing the Waterjet Channel Avengers. We have Everett, who helped make the marble bowl back in the day and now makes rocket parts on a CNC for a living, but he lives in Florida. Alex, who is actually a mechanic, but he's been learning how to use his CNC to make some custom parts because he can't just buy parts to put a twin turbo kit on a Lamborghini Diablo.
And of course, myself. I just work here.
Now, we have our team, but they can't just turn a photo into a file. So, we have some work to do. First, I'll upscale it because apparently 240p is good enough for the Olympic archives.
Then, I'll turn it to grayscale and simplify it in Adobe Illustrator.
Next, I'll clean it up in Photoshop.
These little scratches cause all sorts of issues if we leave them.
Then on this website, I'll use some more AI wizardry to turn my cleaned up source images into a beautiful 3D model.
Now, over in Fusion, Everett will tell the CNC exactly where to cut and how.
And there we have our metal design all ready to be cut out on the CNC.
Something you might not think about is how to mount something in the CNC. But if you prepare a flat plate of metal and use a generous amount of superglue, you'll actually have a pretty good mounting system that leaves plenty of space for the machining to happen. So Alex mounted all that in a vise and used the ruby tipped probe so the machine would know exactly where it is. Then it uses this really cool tool changer to select the proper endmill for this step.
It was cutting like a dream for about 2 seconds before the whole thing flew off.
I guess I wasn't generous enough with the superlue. That's more like it. Now it's working like a dream. It's so satisfying to watch the CNC turn this chunk of metal into a work of art. But right now, the coolant isn't on, and it's overheating so bad the chips are turning purple. After the first few steps, you can see the design starting to take shape. A few steps later, and there's even more details visible. Then it swaps to the teeny tiny endmill and does the final steps. This takes quite a while, but it's worth the wait. This honestly turned out better than I thought it would. I didn't even know the CNC could do such fine details and make them look this good. Now that the front has a design in it, we can't just glue it down because it's no longer flat. So, we have to make a special vise to hold the metal. It's really just a circle.
But now, it will grip the metal a lot better. Look how nicely it fits in there. First things first, we have to make sure it's completely smooth. Now that it's as smooth as my brain, we can do the rest of the steps. And thanks to editing magic, we can skip to the end.
And ta, it's done. This looks absolutely amazing. And if I didn't tell you it was a two week long nightmare, you'd have no idea it took so long. Anyways, if you look closely at the metal, you can still see the lines from where the CNC made each pass. So, now I need to sand it.
However, I can't just use any sanding method because it will remove all the fine details. Luckily, other people have already solved this problem and sell the solution on Amazon for eight bucks.
These cool Dremel attachments are soft, so they can bend and get into all the tight spaces. I started with the green bed, but that seemed a little coarse, so I stepped up to the black bed and did a little test spot. You can see how much smoother it looks in that spot. So, I started going to town on the rest of the metal. The results from that have me really excited for how it'll look when it's been completely polished. I went over to the buffing wheel to polish everything up real nice. I'll apply a yellow compound and start buffing the metal. Anyways, polishing is boring, so I brushed off the yellow compound, applied the red compound, brush that off. It wasn't looking too great, so I tried a different one, and it still wasn't how I wanted. So, I got some car polish and did it by hand, and finally, it was really shiny.
>> So, that took like all day. I think that looks pretty good. What do you think, Nate?
I'll take that as a good. I thought it looked really good as is, but I wanted to give it an aged look, so I got some brass patina, and I just kind of started pouring it on there, and it worked really well, actually. So, I kept doing that until the entire metal was coated.
It looked really cool in all patina, but that's not the look we're going for here. So, I went to the buffing wheel again and removed most of the patina.
And I think this turned out beautifully.
I love how it looks like it actually came from 1896. Looking at this old design really starts to bring back some of the magic of the Olympics. To me, this medal just oozes history and championship. It reminds me of how it felt to watch Shawn White hit the double McTist 1260.
>> All eyes TO THIS HIT. OH, AND THERE IT IS.
>> The modern one looks like it's about to lay off 30% of its staff to increase shareholder value. But this bronze medal wasn't perfect. The stepover lines been a ton of tedious sanding. The time it takes on the CNC doesn't scale well and it wastes a ton of material. That's fine for bronze, but not okay when you're dealing with something more expensive.
But that's just the first metal of our three. And the next two are going to be made using completely different methods.
So, let's get started on the pure sterling silver metal. So, for the next metal, we're swapping to solid sterling silver, about $1,000 worth, and we're going to try a more efficient method with time and material. For this one, I thought we could get a little creative and make our dream metal design. As I was perusing the designs, I noticed one that was reused multiple years that I really like. It depicts the goddess Nike standing in an Olympic stadium with a sword and wings. And again, the Parthonon shining on a hill in the back.
Top tier design. However, I didn't really like any of the backsides that went with this design. So, let's use this one from Cortina 1956. Something about a big snowflake. You know what I'm saying? Behind it is the mountain that overlooks Cortina itself. Now, let's turn this photo into a 3D file that's ready for production. Scale it, trace it, clean it, shop it, mesh it, tune it, cam, upload it. Wow, that was quick.
Thank you, Daft Daniel. Now that we have our design, we're going to start by 3D printing it. Everett has a smaller nozzle than us at just 2 mm, so he can get much greater detail. Since he's in Florida, he'll have to pack it up and prepare to ship it on over to us, making sure to listen to copyrighted music so we can't use the audio. Thanks, Everett.
I fished an old project out of the trash and stole a sprew from that. We're going to take the 3D printed metal, cast it in plaster, melt out the plastic, and then cast molten silver in that leftover cavity. I put it in the casting holder and glue the metal on. This helps the metal pour into the circle shape more easily. Then I put the mold over the top. I'll tape up the holes so we don't get any plaster leaks. This will be the last step before we can put the whole thing in the kiln and burn away the plastic 3D print. Then I'll get out the good stuff. Oh yeah, that's high-grade.
Straight from my close confidant from down south. We'll call him Jeffrey E.
I'll mix that with the proper amount of water and stir it real good. The vacuum chamber will help get all the bubbles out because bubbles will cause a low quality cast and we don't want that.
I'll pour that in and spank it a little.
Then back into the chamber it goes. And you can see why I was spanking it earlier. Well, now we have our mold, but it needs to cure for a day. And we definitely won't get very far without any silver. So, I went to a silver store. I went inside and saw a cool rock poster. And then I realized I was in trouble because I didn't have any cash.
So, I had to go to a bank. But they did have some cool lights on the ceiling.
You guys ever seen a money spread like this?
Faux big ones. Okay, now I can actually buy some silver. They told me how much I could buy and I got a great shot of the dirty plexiglass. But while I was there, I met someone with a whole bunch of real silverware >> from every grandparent.
Just pounds and pounds.
>> Yeah.
>> You ever seen a money spread like this?
Five big ones. Back at the shop, I had to look at the coins because I've never held a silver coin like this before.
>> It's really rather beautiful.
>> Yeah, just like you. A >> our mold is now cured, so I'll struggle to remove the top and finally succeed.
The plaster has a special heating process, so I'll program the kiln and put the mold in it. At this point, it was 7:00 p.m., so I went home and hope the shop didn't burn down. Overnight, the kiln will slowly rise in temperature until the 3D print melts out and burns away. Now, we need to weigh our silver to know how much copper we need to add to make sterling silver. Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper, and it's a lot easier to work with. I didn't quite have enough, so I rated my wife's jewelry drawer and grabbed this silver Bugatti engine that my brother sells with his Bugatti rings. I'm sure he won't miss it. Now, I have myself a lovely assortment of sterling silver.
So, I loaded all that up into the kil except for the coins, which I had to teach a lesson. And now, they fit quite nicely. It was getting nice and toasty, and a few minutes later, it's totally molten, so I added the copper bits. A pinch of borax will help prevent it from oxidizing. Stirring the copper and silver helps make sure they've actually mixed. And now we can add the rest of the silver, which is quite satisfying.
>> Hey, I got a little secret for you. Come here. It's that I can listen to music and still hear my surroundings with today's sponsor, Raycon.
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What are you waiting for? Click the link in the description or go to buyracon.com/waterjet open and you'll get 15% off the essential open earbuds. Thanks for sponsoring us, Raycon. I'll remove the mold from the kiln that's been sitting in there since last night. It got up to about 1,400Β° to melt all the plastic out, and it's been sitting around 700.
This will help make sure the silver doesn't cool before it can fill the mold. At this point, I'm super nervous because I only get one shot at this. You have to destroy the mold to see your casting, and I can't make a new one. So, I poured it and had a moment of terror.
I don't think it worked. There's way too much left over in there. That's like 4 days down the drain. I was incredibly depressed for about 45 minutes, but I just decided to take it out of the mold and look at it. I put the hot mold into water, which causes the plaster to violently dissolve and was ready to be confronted with a major disappointment.
Hang on. Hang on.
No way. I do not believe my eyes.
Wow.
There are some surface imperfections, but we got ourselves a silver medal, baby. The casting quality was a little lower than I had hoped, but you can still see the design, and I think we can work with this and make it look really cool. I think due to a mix of the silver and mold itself being slightly under their ideal temperature, it's a tricky balance because if you overheat anything, this will cause even worse issues. But anyways, I'll cut off the sprew and collect the dust because that's valuable. Then I'll sand down the edges to smooth them out a little, but not too much. See, I learned my lesson to sand down the edges first. Now I'll follow the same process as the bronze metal, but this time I can really see where I have and haven't sanded it. I worked my way up to grits with the Dremel, then went back to the buffing wheel, hit it with the yellow polish, and remembered to polish the edges this time. I used the toothbrush again, hit it with the red polish, and just look how nice and shiny that is.
>> Okay, I think the silver metal turned out pretty good. What do you think, Nate?
>> That's all right.
>> Yeah, I think you're right. Nate made me a little self-conscious, so I decided we should age this metal as well. This time I'll use liver of sulfur, which is just about the worst name I can think of.
Let's hope it doesn't smell as bad as the name implies. Oh, that stinks. Well, now my fingers are going to smell like farts. All you need is a few drops and a few cups of water. Ah, urine with poo.
I'll put the silver in the liver of sulfur. And after a few seconds, it's already changing its appearance. So, I'll dip it in a few more times, and that should give us the result we're looking for. Then, I'll dunk it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid.
Honestly, right now, it looks like I pulled this out of the bottom of the ocean.
But just like the bronze, I'll take it over to the buffing wheel and take off most of the patina. That actually turned out nice. I kind of like the rustic look. The process definitely felt like two steps forward, two steps back.
Casting was awesome for detail and efficiency because we can cast any shape and reclaim all the silver we cut off, but it took a ton of time and we still ran into issues like paracity because the metal cooled too fast. Overall, this is such a cool metal. The design really captures the spirit of the Olympics.
Conquering your weakness and performing in front of the whole world is what it's all about. That's why everyone loved watching Alyssa Lou ice skating. She reminded us what the Olympics is supposed to be. But now it's time for the real challenge. Can I make a gold medal that's worthy of an athlete that spent their entire life to be the best in the world? We're going to step things up with a more advanced method that should be faster, more efficient, and give us even better detail. Basically, we're trying to match how real coins and metals are made. So, let's see if we can pull it off. For the gold medal design, I'm just going to copy the Beijing 2022 metal cuz I think they absolutely nailed it. The patterns in the rings are reminiscent of Chinese art, and it has the bonus of making it look like a gong.
And I think gongs are sick.
>> Also, the Olympics logo is big and centered. I know I just dogged on modern design, but I think they absolutely knocked this one out of the park. You can't just feed CAD software a JPEG. Do I look like I know what a JPEG is?
>> So, you need a vector file that converts every line and detail into a math formula. So, I'm manually doing that one squiggle at a time. Now, I'll send the file over to Everett and make him do the hard part. He's converting it into a 3D file and then programming the machine with all the instructions it needs to cut our part. And as is tradition, he's still listening to copyright music so we can't use the audio.
>> Thanks again, Everett.
>> Now that we have the file, we'll mount a round piece of steel in the CNC, poke it with a little stick so we know where all the edges are. Then we'll swap heads and get to cutting. You've already seen plenty of CNC footage, but what you need to know is that the steel is a lot harder than bronze and is way more difficult to machine, resulting in multiple broken bits. However, after a mere 2 hours, we had a perfect looking stamp. At this rate, we're going to be done with both sides later today. We did not continue at the same rate. You see, for the first half, we made cuts into the steel, but we realized the finished metal would be inverted because that's how a stamp works. So, for the other half of the stamp, we wanted the design to stick out so it would push into the metal. We didn't think this would be much harder, but in hindsight, it's like if you were to draw the Olympics logo into the sand versus removing everything but the Olympics logo in sand. And on top of that, you're using a carving tool that's less than a millimeter wide. I won't make you suffer the same way we did, but Alex spent the better part of 2 weeks machining the second side of the stamp. Long story short, the tiny bits kept breaking. We slowed the machine down to extremely gentle rates, causing us to have machining times in excess of 15 hours, but that didn't stop us from breaking over $300 in bits and putting in around 45 hours on the machine just for this half of the metal. I think it's safe to say we ran out of talent on this one. I'd love to say we got better by the end of the video, and I think we did, but we kept trying harder and harder methods, causing us to break more and more carbide bits. But hey, someone's got to help Gene Hos pay for all those wrecked F1 cars. As always, your condescending or uncondesing words of advice are always appreciated. That's how we figure out half the stuff we do around here. Alex was truly a saint for all the late nights and weekends he put into helping me make this metal. But a happy byproduct of not knowing what the heck I'm doing is that I got to go to the epic CNC store. I got to see all the cool stuff they've made. And I even got myself a little treat. Yeah, boy. Five bits. so we can keep breaking them.
Finally, after many big casualties, we had ourselves a finished stamp. And now we can finally get to stamping. If I were to make this metal out of solid gold, it would cost in excess of $300,000.
Luckily for me, the real Olympics use goldplated silver for their gold medals.
I don't want to pay for any more silver at its historical high, so I'm going to use a different metal and goldplate that. This is going to require a lot more copper. And the construction site I ransacked earlier was fresh out. But I did have one more good place in mind. In the parking lot of this tech YouTubers building, there's these really nice EV charging cables. One quick snip and I had all the copper I'd need and then some. Or at least I thought. Turns out it was just the cheap copper plated aluminum cables. It's disgusting seeing the things YouTubers will do to save a buck these days. No standards at all. So I guess I'll just have to head on over to eBay. You didn't think you'd make it through a Waterjet Channel video without an eBay lowballing story, did you? I struck out on the bronze, but boy howdy did I get a deal on this copper plate.
I'm pretty sure the seller had it listed for less than its melt value. What a Jimmy. The plate arrived and it looks great. I was honestly worried it was going to be some sort of scam. But after cutting out a circle on old Marge, the trusty water jet, we were ready to get metaling.
>> Boy, let's not drop it.
Look at that beauty. That is nice. Then I put the copper disc in the kiln. I need it to be nice and soft so I can stamp it. Palmer was nice enough to help me carry the press next to the kiln so I didn't have to walk across the shop with a red hot disc. Everyone congratulate Palmer on his pregnancy in the comments.
I put the stamps in there as well so they wouldn't cool off the copper. We put these in there for like 30 seconds cuz we don't want the steel to be soft, but we want it to be warm enough that it doesn't immediately cool the copper.
Let's hope I don't drop them because these clamps suck. First one.
Line that up.
Make sure it's nice and centered. Get that on. We got to hurry. That's cooling down fast. This better work.
I'm cranking it tight.
>> What's in the box?
Oh, what in the world?
It kind of worked.
>> Yeah. What? Oh, it's stuck to the bottom. So, that's a good sign.
Oh. Oh, it came off.
>> I think we need softer copper.
>> That's There's something. We just tried to do it faster. That didn't really turn out how we hoped. So, we tried again with the stamps even hotter, and that still didn't work, but it was really cool to watch the oxide layer pop off. I decided trying it with the copper red hot was a bad idea because it forms the oxide layer so quickly. The problem is my tiny press isn't strong enough to stamp cold copper. A little research said I would probably need around 200 tons and my current press is a mere 20.
Luckily, I have a plan for that. First, I cut out two more blanks on the water jet. Nate told me I could soften the copper by getting it just barely red hot and then dunking it in water. You can tell it's soft because the pliers scratch it easily. Annealing the copper left a weird surface finish, so I sanded it down because it needs to be completely smooth before we stamp it.
The next day, I saw a really cool license plate on my way to a big boy machine shop where they do real work.
They have an extremely large hydraulic press that has 300 tons of pressure. I mean, just look at the girth of this thing. But we can't just put our stamp in. It's currently set up to bend metal.
So, my new friend Jefferson removes the V-shaped rails and puts on flat ones.
Now, it will compress instead of bending our metal in half. Jefferson places it in the press and brings it down on our stamp with a copper inside. Then he lifts it up and rotates it and presses it again to make sure we got an even stamp. Now we can crack it open and see the results.
Ooh, look at that. Try as we might, we could not get the other half off the stamp. Back at Weenie Shop Juniors, in attempt to remove the stamp, I spent a good while destroying the metal's edges, but it finally came off and it only looked a little destroyed from the screwdriver. So now I have to sand down the edges to remove the damages. That's looking better, but it still needs to be sanded with the Scotch-Brite Dremel attachment. And so does the rest of the metal. By now, you're an expert, and you already know that. We'll work our way up the grits and then polish the whole thing. It's looking really good, but I'm going to hand polish it because now it's time to gold plate it. When you goldplate something, it will have the same texture as the surface it's applied to, so if there's any scratches, they'll show through the finished product. I bought this gold plating kit for like $300, which kind of felt like a ripoff after I saw everything they gave me. It does make me feel like Nile Red, though, so I'm going to do a Nile Red impression. I put the metal on the table, so now it's on my table. And at first, I like the table with the metal on it. But then I decided I don't like it. So I picked up the metal and put it in the container. Then I decided it was time to add a nickel plating layer. This is actually really important because without the nickel, the gold will eventually diffuse into the base metal and it will look terrible. After about 5 minutes, I decided to take it out. And looking at it, it actually worked pretty well.
I did a few tests on this piece and never got a perfect result, but just decided to send it with the real one.
First, I dunk it in muratic acid to make sure there's no oxide layer. Then, I cleanse it in distilled water and finally dunk it into the nickel plating solution. That worked pretty well, but the finish was a little uneven because I accidentally bought the brushon solution instead of the bathing solution. So, I polished it and it looks a lot better now. So now we can crack open the gold plating solution and pour it in, being extra careful not to spill any because this stuff is extremely expensive. Now I'll do the same thing I did with the nickel solution, but it works this time because it's actually made for submersion. I'll dunk the first half.
And it's looking really promising.
Oh, it's working. So I'll repeat the process on the other side to cover the whole metal. Okay, now check this out.
Wow, that is perfect. Crazy how much easier it is when your setup is made for what you're actually doing. Huh?
>> Hey, Alex. Do you want to see what all your hard work amounted to? What' you do?
Shu.
>> Pretty neat.
>> It's looking good. Is it? Is it Olympic time again?
>> It's the time. Well, back to Beijing for real. What's going on here? Those are some muscly arms. The gold medal process has a lot going for it. It's super scalable. The time to stamp is almost instant and there's very little post-processing required. Making this by far the fastest method we tried. Also, the gold plating looks awesome. It took a while, but to do a massive batch all at once wouldn't take too much more effort. So, overall, this method was super fast and efficient. Maybe it's me getting older. Maybe it's the Olympics losing its soul. Maybe it's a little bit of both. But, I think spending the time to make these really gave me a new appreciation for the medals that are used and the work the athletes have to put in to earn one. The Olympics is all about coming together as an entire planet and showing some pride for your country, but also respecting the efforts put in by all the other not as cool ones.
Hi guys. Um, my friends are trying to hit 20 million subscribers by the end of this month. Now, you don't know who I am, but I'm a good old British chap. So, I'd like you lot to tap this button here and watch the next video. And if you don't, well, I don't know what's gonna happen, but it's probably not good. That is proper British banter. Now, I'm going to go get some fish and chips.
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