This video demonstrates how to create rich, dynamic skin tones for miniatures by layering primary colors (purple for shadows, yellow and blue for base tones, and red for warmth) rather than using pre-mixed colors, showing that complex, realistic skin tones can be achieved through careful color experimentation and glazing techniques without relying on traditional green paints.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
BrushBarbell is live! going to practice with some work skin and possibly dive into oil paints
Added:get my colors together.
All right, time for a little uh experimenting obviously what the title says anyways, right?
Educated guesses of what we're going to go with.
Let's see popping up yet.
No.
See how this looks? Still looks pretty damn bright, doesn't it? Video-wise, it's supposed to be moved around.
It doesn't seem to be.
Let's see if we can fix that.
Maybe not.
wasn't ideal. I was trying to give you guys a wider shot so you see the use of the washes, but apparently I didn't set that up correctly. So maybe next video.
I don't like how that's washed out.
We'll give it a go. Anyhow, let's go while we have still still have some energy. Otherwise, this isn't going to happen at all.
>> Hope everybody's doing well this morning.
Like it says, we're going to experiment with a little bit of >> the orc skin. See if we can come up with a I don't know, a little better green, something a little more dynamic.
Obviously, we'll start with our core primaries. I'm going to do the purple for the shadowing and the shading, the heaviness, and then yellow and blue.
Won't need much red, though. We could use a red to give it some more life to the skin. So, we'll see. We'll see how it all goes.
So, apologize if this is not coming through very well.
Thought I had it set up well and that's not the case.
It's still blowing this out. I'm going to have to figure the lighting out because no matter what I do with the lighting, it just blows this thing out.
>> I turn it almost off and it's dark in here and it still shows as a bright white >> blob.
bright.
Hope everybody's doing well.
All right, as I said earlier, we're going to start with some purples. As you know, I always define my shadows and the weight with purple. And this miniature is pretty badass. I got it off Amazon for just a couple of dollars.
Well, I guess what? Maybe $67. But I just love the over >> overly textured muscles. Everything is is exaggerated, so it makes it easy to practice.
>> I'll try to remember to keep that on this back for you guys.
And like I said, we're practicing orc skin. Um, seeing if we can get something a little more dynamic than normal. It's going to be a little more precision because I'm going to try to lay in the weight that I want. So, you're going to see some little more actually more deliberate shadowing.
Um, what I mean by that is that I'm going to follow the natural muscle curvatures and we're going to overly exaggerate what the shadows would be. Uh, cuz those will calm down once we actually go in and start oil painting, but I want it to be a little exaggerated now because that's what's going to give us our depth and a little more realism.
So you find anything that's recessed, anything that's going to cast shadow because right now we painted everything obviously white or primer gray.
And the purple will give us the heaviness. If you if you guys were here on the last one, it'll give us a nice heaviness. And he's got his somebody said dad bod, but you know, whatever.
He's got abs. He's got dad Bob abs.
And at this stage, you don't really need to worry about messing up. If you put too much on, >> it's okay cuz we can control the shadows even. Let's get the belly button even darker.
Hope you guys see this, but I need to figure out this lighting. I know this is only the second video, but this is really frustrating me.
>> I want you to guys be able to see everything really well.
And I don't know if you guys ever study.
I am not formally trained as I've said before, but I do like to study some things. And I've looked up lighting and the percentage of lighting that decreases. It's not even. It's not proportionally. I can't not remember the falloff, but like let's say this is 100%. And you think it's 10, you know, 20 30 40 50%. Well, once it hits the the curvature, the I forget what the the line name is, it drops off like 80%. So, it's not as gradual >> as you would think it is. So, that's why we're going to do this stark contrast.
And looking at real life stuff helps too, even though, you know, there's nothing real life about this. Anatomy helps because you can kind of see the coloring. But with this dude, >> the sculpt being overly exaggerated, we can just have a lot of fun.
>> Did anybody practice this or give this a shot over last week? Nobody sent me their work, so I just assume everybody just blew me off or had their own thing going on, which I get it. I always do, too.
The backs are always my favorite. I love working on the back because the backs are always so so heavy.
>> See, I turned the light completely off and it's still blowing up.
H I'll figure this out.
So, again, we're putting the purple uh in the deep recesses. I'm just using this right now. But I did get some inks because costwise inks less uh cost a lot less in the long run and uh you get a lot more bang for your buck.
And I was pretty happy with these. They had a high review on Amazon. They were up $25 for God, I don't know, 30 30 colors. So I thought that was pretty good.
So again, we're going to see if we can get a deeper, a little more rich, griier green, if all that makes sense.
But right now, we're setting our shadows.
Those give us definition around the muscles.
muscles >> and I'll try to take breaks and answer some questions. I have some decent amount of energy right now, so might be able to go a little longer.
Maybe do a little bit of oil painting work.
>> And you'll see I'm going up under on the waist. Even though there's not >> any definition on the waist, it is under the armpit. So shadowwise, it would be naturally darker.
I will always tell you don't use black for shadow. You use purple gray things like that. You can mix black into it. Even greens. Use anything but black. Black takes away from the depth and complexity of what you're trying to accomplish. takes.
>> And again, I'm not formally trained, but that's from just learning and observation and then seeing like what other artists actually do.
I'm just throwing purple underneath all the shadow right now.
>> I mean, I am truly just throwing it in there.
And again at the wash stage or even you know some people call it blocking in underpainting whatever you want. There's a lot of details like this chain all the armor. I don't care so much. Even the fur I don't care so much if I get these colors into it cuz it just adds to it.
>> Uh it bleeds into it. To me it's a little more real life.
>> It bleeds into it.
>> Obviously we need to go a little darker under their chin.
Maybe we'll get them under.
Give him a little more character.
Maybe in the eyes there.
Mhm.
Right now. kind of looks like a bad cartoon.
So, I'm just sketching in a bad cartoon.
>> I was happy to get a lot of feedback.
Seems like a few people got a lot out of it. So, that was nice. So, even in the shadows of the toes.
So even >> I'm going to put a little I'm going to initiate purple >> just so it gives it more depth under the cloth.
This is one of the few more controlled washes. Usually I like slapping them around, but it's an experiment. So you got to learn with me. This is a huge experiment.
But this is the biggest thing I could share with you guys is the fact that don't be afraid to try something >> because if it fails in the long run, it's just paint. It's just plastic.
And you could strip it down and repaint it.
one miniature when I was obsessed with some type of wet blending. I stripped it was it six six or seven times before it started ruining it. Um and just kept repainting it.
>> So the biggest thing if you learn anything from me besides my rambling is don't be afraid to experiment because that's where all my success came from.
So again, right now we're just establishing the shadows where it's going to be a little heavier.
>> At least that's our hopes, right?
>> That light's pretty pretty light, but you get an idea of where it's going.
>> He is a brute. He's a tank.
Hey, Eastston. Nice to see you in here.
Samaria, I think I got that right.
Rockwood, nice to see you guys.
If I butcher your names, can't be mad at me. My first grade teacher called me scene dining and my name is Sean Denning. So, >> dining is spelled with one N and my last name is spelled with two. So, All right. Just getting a little more purple in here.
All right.
We're going to try yellows as our base.
>> Let's see if that works. If it doesn't, we'll fail together, right?
Now, yellow as far as Vallejo wash, it is super strong and it will reactivate other colors.
So, if you're not wanting it to blend with the color underneath, you want to make sure that either the yellow is dried if you applied it first or the color that you're applying on top of. It is super strong.
Unlike the regular yellow that everybody complains about the pigmentation on, we're going to use a sloppy brush on this cuz I'm just going to kind of flood.
I still got a lot of coloring that from my inks. Maybe not.
Need a different brush. Plenty of brushes.
We're going to go a little bigger brush so I can flood flood it with the yellow since this is going to be one of our primaries. I don't care where it goes right now. We're just covering all the skin.
Not really going in the mouth. We've got plans for the mouth. I could have done some more purple here. So, I just I don't know if you noticed it. I just dipped a little bit of purple in with the yellow >> because I want the hands to look a little more >> bruised.
There we go.
>> Now, clean it off and go back to straight yellow.
Again, yellow is a strong pigment. I know it's piss pork covering coverage when you're painting your miniatures, but when it comes to washes, it's strong.
>> Right now, we're looking like we're getting some zombie skin.
>> But you can see it hasn't pushed the purples around at all because I let the purple dry. So, we still have the distinct lines for the shadows.
I apologize for the humming while I'm doing this. I got to stop doing that.
And if I'm mumbling, I apologize. I hear myself clearly in my head. So if I mumble, you guys just holler.
I just The wife yells at me about it. I mumble all the time, but I can hear myself in my head. So I feel like I'm speaking a little clearly.
All right. I sure hope this doesn't fail, but you know, this is how we're going to learn and practice.
Worst case, I can paint myself to a green if this underpainting doesn't work.
I guess I need to stay on screen.
Apologize, guys.
All right, let's start getting some blues cuz yellow and blue obviously makes green.
Yeah, I might have to get me a dedicated little camera stand.
>> Let's see what we got going here.
So, we're slowly going to tint that yellow with the blue.
I start getting a green tone.
Um, >> the yellow isn't completely dry, so it's going to give me a little bit of saturation, but I'm going really light with the blue right now.
Did I need to delete d delet d delet d delet d d d d d d d d d d d d d d d it a little more.
You can see where I apologize if I'm not on You see where we're starting to get a little bit of the green hue.
And I know orcs you can do what? red and blue and several different tones, but I want to be in the bluish green tone, not emerald, but where the flesh is breathing more or has different colors and a little more complexity.
I think we'll get there between the under underpainting and the oil paints. I think we'll get there.
>> So, he has a strong blueish green right now, which that's all right.
have a little more pressure down on the feet. I always get sloppy on the feet and hands cuz to me I feel like they take a lot of abuse >> and it gives it to me a little more natural tones when I do that.
Okay. Going to let that dry a little. I think a little more up in here.
So you can see we're slowly tinting this skin and changing the color cuz it's subtle with the washes.
Hope everybody can see that. All right, this damn camera is flooding everything out.
I might do a little red just to give it some oxygen in some areas. I know it sounds weird, but it actually is important. I'm going to blow dry this really quick off the side.
All right, we're going to add a little oxygen. a little more depth to it. Um, with the red, not going to be huge. It'll be enough.
I'm just going to go really, really light with it.
Just flooding everything. And then I'll sponge off what I don't want.
>> So it's you can see it's very subtle, very very very light red.
>> So it's like I don't know probably 3:1 ratio water to wash.
What it does, it looks like the skin is is flush >> or flushed. Flush flushed with colored.
There we go.
That's a little better. That's nice.
Too much. If it's too much, I can just bench it off.
But subtlety, it's these little little decisions that will give your flesh, your skin, uh even if you're doing gore, um it gives it that extra depth and complexity that people end up staring at trying to figure out what you did or how you did it. So, I know with this coloring, it's so hard to tell. This light is killing me, but there's very subtle uh pigmentation stain, which it makes it looks like the flesh is actually breathing a little bit, like he's been moving. It gives it a little more motion and depth.
And again, that was that's a red wash that was even diluted more. So, it's like 3 to one three drops of water to one drop of uh wash approximately. and start out super super super light. It doesn't just flood it with a little bit of red. See if you like it. But I don't know if you can tell over time he's starting to turn a little more green as the yellow and blue uh start mixing a little more. He is turning more green.
So we're starting to get a kind of nice kind of nice hue on the green.
And there's going to be some areas that we want stronger because the skin is stretched a little more. So, you'll want it a little more green.
But blue is beautiful to go under green. Even if you don't do the washes, if you do a blue, a nice blue under your green, it's going to give it some lovely depth.
And again, what's nice about the wash is that it never you're never going to lose the detail of your miniature. So you can't over oversaturate it.
So even if the color is completely bad, you can just paint over it. If you don't like any of it, just paint over it.
You tried, right? It's an experiment.
I will show you since this is going quickly my favorite um oil color to initiate my flesh.
>> I guess some people call unifying, but I actually paint with it.
Um I like sepia. That's one of my favorite colors. Um, but it's a batum which you can get through the the 502s. You can get that through art um regular art colors, but it's it's popular in the it's used in glazing a lot and bringing in grittiness into art or into you know when people are painting.
So, the biggest thing is when I'm using oil paints, I do a lot of glazing and filtering and that gives me the better effect because I want what's underneath to show through still, right?
So, even if it's a heavybodied paint, I still glaze it on. And then, plus it gives me more control. I could always decide to go back and change it.
See, we're starting to get a nice interesting blue green underneath.
Let's Let's add a little more. He's been working out. Let's add a little red on the shoulders.
>> Shoulders.
>> The chest.
We'll give it a little depth.
>> Yeah. You know, he's he's a he's a beast.
You should be honored. Let's stretching the belly a little bit, right? So, let's let's do a little more red across the belly.
It gives it some color.
And I promise, guys, I'll get this lighting figured out. This is only number two.
And I know the the nuances of what I do really has to be seen through the camera, and it gets lost.
All right. So, we're just establishing a little more warmth.
I'm going to dry that for blow dry that real quick for oh for your guys's viewing pleasure. Otherwise, I just take a break and let it dry.
All right. I don't know about you, he's starting to look pretty badass.
Let's see if I can Let's see if we can get this better. This is going to make me so mad. If anybody has ideas orientation, rotate the vice back on how to make this. There we go. That's a little better.
Let me turn this off. It still blows it up. Good god.
So, trying to show you guys the subtlety of the color changes. There's green. There's a little bit of purples. I put more red in the chest area. The abdomen.
>> Hey, Retro. Nice to see you in here again. And we're still working figuring out how to get this uh does a horrific job.
See, that's the light completely off and it's still washing it out.
Okay. Lord, I'll have to watch some YouTube videos on how to do that.
All right, let's get a little more depth on this guy. Anybody have any questions at this stage while I'm taking a little beverage break?
any question of order of events or anything that we've done? It's pretty straightforward. I think a lot of people are demystified once they see that it's just primary colors and that I uh >> just experiment and play to get what I want from it. So, now we're going to be a little more deliberate cuz I'm starting to like the the tone that I'm getting.
So, it's going to be a little more it's going to be less of a wash out and more of 100% of the the color, but I do still brush it off.
So when I'm dabbing my my brush into the wash, I still brush some off.
So I have some control over it still.
You can see the blue and it's starting to get a little darker. And we still have our our shadowing with the purple. Right.
>> The back we're going to go a little heavier.
Got to get the triceps.
So there. Yeah, that's looking good. I'm liking that.
All right.
Yeah, I definitely like that.
It's a lovely lovely green.
I might do might do a little blue down the spine just to just to give it a little a little more depth.
I'm feathering it out from the recesses of the the spinal erector.
Um but it'll give it a little more depth.
So, same thing. We'll go under the belly.
And it's the blue under the belly.
Keep it darker there. I think we got our foundation.
And I'm still feeling pretty good.
So, I think I show you how I do my unifying unifying oil wash.
It's not a true wash, but it can be.
But it's going to give me an idea what my skin color is.
I just got to decide what color I'm going to use. I think I'm going to do an olive.
I have olive on my plate right now or on my palette.
So, let's see.
Yeah, it's all washed out. Jesus. Can't even see how green he is. He still looks white as a blob. A white blob.
Uh, what determines where each color generally placed? That is kind of off of intuition. Now, purple, as I said at the beginning of the thing, I use purple for weight and shadow. purple or gray paint or sorry, Payne's gray. I never use black, but purple will give it really nice depth. So, you'll see in the shadows I have purple and in the recesses and also I outline the muscles.
Um, so where the muscles naturally separate, I put a purple. It gives it more weight and it makes a lot more dynamic. I need to wash this. Let me dry this a little more before I put oil on it. Hold on.
All right. So, the biggest thing I've learned there there's no rules to anything, but there are basic rules, right? Is when it comes to color. Uh, but I establish when you're asking what determines what color generally is placed, I go I talk about temperature on everything, right? Um, so when something is heavy and grotesque, it's typically going to be like a purple. Blue is bruising or even cold.
Um, and then that could give you your neckron type stuff or if he's losing blood. Red makes it look like it's flesh or fleshy. uh brings the blood to the to the the skin itself. Uh yellow, believe it or not, yellow is in all of our skin.
It gives us our certain pigmentation, but you could use that as rot if you want. So, if you're new to this, all my washes are 99.9% just the primary. blue, yellow, red, and purple or scion, whatever you want to call another blue.
I will deviate some off of that. I will bring in if I'm if I'm underpainting something extra dark, I'll use sepia. I love sepia. It's a rotting flesh. Obviously, if you follow my work at all, I do a lot of rot or decaying type flesh or flesh that looks like it shouldn't exist but does exist.
All right. So, here's our next experiment, guys.
I think >> we're going to go with all drab.
Let's see what kind of uh what kind of green that gives us because I can change the hues of that green.
But with uh with glazing, I could change all of that.
or do I want to do my regular glaze? Oh, so if you're using 502s, uh here's Batum. This is what I use a lot for unifying unifying my skin. In fact, I'll do that on this so you guys can see what it does. Um it has it it's like a tobaccoey color. It has some deep browns. Um so like burnt umber, some orchid in there. orc, sorry.
Um, but if I end up going through a lot of this now, so I'm no longer going to use the 502s. I'm going to use artist grade because it goes a lot further. But this is one of my primary washes I use and it gives me the skin tones that I like. Seia is another one.
Um, it's love sepia. And then also these kits come with so just sepia. It's just a basic sepia. It doesn't matter. or could be artist grade. It's another great one, but that one is going to have uh a little more staining in the yellows and it'll help with your greens.
So, actually, let's hit this with Batum.
See what that looks like and then see if I can glaze glaze in some green.
If not, and I don't know if you can see this, but it's a rich tobaccoey brown in there. It's It's actually pretty lovely brown in there. But what I like about oil painting is that it makes me slow down. I give some the the miniature chance to rest and then once it dries, cuz everything dries darker, whether it's acrylics, oil paints, everything dries darker.
So, what that does is give me an opportunity to see where I need to work on my lighting.
Um, because a lot of times I can hit the model with bright white and because it's oil, I can feather it in easier than with acrylic and it's still going to be a little darker.
>> So, let's see what this is going to look like.
So you can see he's starting to give us a little more green.
But this is just going to kind of unify the skin tones for us. And I'll I'll wipe it back some.
But you can see where the bases for a lot of my skin color comes from. And it stains really nice. Well, all oil paint stained nicely, but this is this is a really nice color for your shadows, your recesses, your muscle masses.
>> And everybody asks like, "How come my model's so shiny?" So if I finish it off with this batum, if I don't touch it, it this this paint dries like glass hard and super shiny.
>> So I'd have to use like a matte finish over it.
>> But this is never my the tomb is never my finishing. It's just one of my first tints that I use for glazing cuz it gives it a nice uniformity like and you could actually I've seen guys use it where you just wash it down and this is your main wash for separation.
So again, experiment. There's no rules.
The only rules are you know yellow and blue is going to make green. It doesn't matter what you do with it. It's those rules obviously are unbreakable, right?
But there's people that tell you no, you have to do it like this. You have to do it like like I paint 90% of the miniature oil painting but with one brush. And there's miniature painters out there where I've seen their classes where you need a different brush for each color that you have. Even blending.
Now, blending I can get behind because blending is going to carry the pigments of the other color. But here's the catch.
Life is always blending everything together. There's never, very rarely is there one stark color, one harsh color, and then it there's a line and it goes into another. That's why I don't care if I slop some over onto some of the inorganic materials. Uh, organic materials bleed into everything.
>> So, that's why don't be don't be afraid to experiment because worst case scenario, you could wipe wipe it back.
and uh and start over, right? I give you permission, please. And I really hope I really hope you guys start sharing your stuff with me. And if you got questions on things, you can shoot me a DM. Um Instagram is the easiest, but you can do it on YouTube. But I see it quicker on Instagram.
And I'll try to give you some insight.
Like if you have a question like, "Hey, what do I do here? What do you see here?" Uh because I want you guys to enjoy it. If you're not enjoying it, then what's the point of painting, >> right?
>> Yeah. I'm not a big fan of Goon's grime, though. Um, but again, that's that's personal preference, right? Uh, I started out first with Villain inks. Um, which I really like. That's actually I started that's how I started observing how how enamels and staining work cuz again, I'm selftaught. I I'm not haven't had any formal training, so I was learning this all on the fly. Um, it's just like null oil. I'm not impressed with no oil. I just don't like I don't think it has enough depth.
Doesn't have enough color for me where you can see already. I just went over with this not wash, but look how how much depth we have, right? And we have lots of layers. And I haven't even put on the green yet. There's not one green color yet, but yet I have green.
And so it's going to give us more depth and character. But yeah, absolutely. The Goons Prime is is a is a unifying wash.
It's it's actually specifically for that where the oil paints you can make it a wash, not make it a wash. Um but yeah, I've used the Goon Grime. And there's another one that they have. Bicker of the Dam's not bad. If you have if you guys have any of the villain inks, you got to play with it because that'll help you through all this stuff that I'm showing you, too, because uh that stuff is great. That's what got me on on my journey. And I'll still use Villain inks. Uh I just use it sparingly cuz I wanted to learn how to paint all my effects. I didn't want effects in a bottle. But if you're trying to do a bunch of stuff and get things onto the table and you want tabletop, that's that stuff is awesome.
It's great. I have the phase one villain inks and and I like them. I always push those guys. I love them. In fact, I'm still a paying member for their um for their Patreon and all the classes. I just haven't got to take I haven't looked at any of their classes in a while, but those guys are awesome.
All right, so this has rested a little bit now. You can see we got a nice green already. I need to wipe some of it off.
And so what's nice about oil paints is you take a soft brush >> and we're going to hit it.
>> This green is so sexy, guys. I wish you could see it better. So we have some blues and purples. So we always have a lot of complexity in the skin and we have not used one green.
So that's why I know it sounds cheesy and I say texture too, but if you paint what's under the skin, you understand what is going on under the skin. It's going to give you way more complexity. I mean, technically, I could I could just finish him off real quick and leave this color and he's going to look dynamic on the table, right? So again, it all comes down to what your goals and what your expectations are. So look at we have all these beautiful greens. And normally I would let this sit overnight, but for video for you guys and experimenting, I'm trying to harden this oil up and dry it out a little more. So I'm taking off the excess. But it's even even his face.
Look how beautiful green, all the depth. And it's super simple, right? What we use? We use purple, yellow, blue, and reds. Super simple.
>> And we just practice layering them. And you can see there's some purple in here underneath the green. It gives the depth, the separation of the abs. Now it looks like natural shadows.
So that's why I'm saying for tabletop washing first, learning how to do a wash for tabletop and then coming across this way, I think is is way better. Um I have been practicing with speed paints and inks because I'm trying to find ways to where people don't want >> centerpieces, right? Not always. They want something that looks good and they throw it on the table. And so I'm trying to come up with ways to where you could paint faster and still be dynamic. And this is a great example.
I've been talking for 46 minutes. And how long have I actually been painting?
Not long. And look at that color. You're not going to get that out of a bottle.
You can't look at that. You're not going to get that bottle. It already looks way more dynamic than anybody else. So you can use some yellows, some blues, some greens. We can add more depth.
>> But the complexity of that skin already have not used green at all. I hope it comes across well.
>> Only color they are missing. They really need purple. Yeah, actually I'm surprised uh Katon hasn't done a purple.
But but remember their style is very specific. So that's another thing too.
You're going to develop a style. Don't paint like me. Learn these techniques and come up with your own style, your own flavor, uh, and experiment, right? I when I first started, I was like, "Oh, I want to replicate this, replicate that."
I love the Golden Demon, but it all looks the same. All the winter stuff looks the same. Um, I like seeing people with getting a different little complexity real life stuff.
>> But, uh, yeah, it'd be interesting if they came up with a villain ink that has a purple hue. Well, almost. They almost do really. If you do the carry-on crimson and you blend it a little bit with the uh what is it? Kalia green, it'll give you a little bit of a purple.
Um cuz I believe I'd done it before when I first started out.
So, he's still I'm going to hit this with the blow dryer real quick, guys. I know it's annoying as hell, but I wanted to do a little bit of a shading and highlighting for you real quick with the oil so you can see how quickly it changes.
All right, we'll see if that's enough.
Yeah, Necro, if you're playing with those villain inks, you can go nuts. I mean, that's really with any colors, but I love acrylics. I'm always going to paint with acrylics. I finished a lot with acrylics. I have a ton of acrylic paints. But when you're playing with the enamels and the oils, you can create some complexity that are crazy. But a big warning, it can turn muddy really fast. And that's why you want to experiment. I've had so many muddy miniatures, it's ridiculous.
Um, yeah, it just looks like I dipped it in a cow pasture and then all of a sudden like, oh great, it's one blobby mess.
And so that's why you got to learn to let uh let the paint rest some.
>> So for me, initial highlighting color, especially if I'm doing flesh, >> is nipples yellow.
Um it's very subtle. I use it on armor, I use it on everything.
That's how I initiate my highlights. So it gives me a little more form in my >> And it gives a little more. It It blends so nice. And it's not so bright to where it takes away from everything, but you can start seeing where your form and definition is. Cuz I've already had some of the depth with the purple, right? We have the purple and all the recesses. Well, if I bring out some of the highlights, it's actually going to look it's going to look like it's even deeper.
And what's easy, that's why we did the over overly exaggerated anatomy.
>> It's easy to see where you want to highlight. We don't we're not doing any directional lighting right now. But one thing you got to remember if you do start playing with lighting and if you're doing more than just tabletop ready, there's reflections and shadows, guys. And that's where you get a lot of your realism is there is reflection in shadows and it's called bounce reflections.
Um but it adds a ton of depth and once I was shown that I couldn't unsee it anymore.
It was beautiful.
>> So you can see I've just done really very lightly glazing on my Naples yellow. It's one of my favorite colors.
Obviously, I'm always going to gravitate towards purples and yellows because of the rot, but Naples yellow is one of the middle of the road guys that you can use on almost any color and start getting highlights. So, the big delt is round, right? So, we're going to feather that around >> even his face. Now, if for some reason it's not blending, like if it it's the oil paint is being absorbed, just tap it on and then leave it alone. Let it dry a little. It'll give you your highlight still. And then you could feather it later.
Uh there's a little ear. It's going to be brighter. That trap is beautiful. We got to accent that trap some.
And this is how I paint all the time.
Um, I'll go in and just start kind of playing with where I want colors at, where I want highlights and lows, and I just go back and forth.
It's a gentle, gentle dance.
>> God, I wish it' come across the camera better. This is one of the best looking greens ever.
>> And we didn't use any green.
I'm being a smartass.
>> If you paint straight out of the bottle, it takes forever to dry. Always dilute it one to one. What is it you're talking about? The villain inks or oil paints?
Because yeah, if you if you introduce mineral spirits, which I thought would be completely different, uh it actually makes your paints dry faster. Weird, huh? But there's a lot of things that I'll do with uh oil paints a lot of people don't do. Like I still use the same brush. I do different colors. Um >> I dry brush with them. I do I do whatever.
So, we're going to introduce a little olive green >> just to see if that's what we want. And I don't think I like it. I think I'm going to stick with what we have.
Yeah. So, again, what's cool since I don't like it, I'm just going to brush it back >> and we're back to where we're at. So again, I believe we established a beautiful green without using green that uh makes the orc stand out more.
>> Yeah, villain ink. Yeah, absolutely.
I've made that mistake. Oh my god. I think maybe the second or third time I use villain inks, I just douse these wounds heavily with everything and it took like weeks for it to dry. Then I was like, "Oh, let me put a little little uh varnish over it." And then it got super cloudy and it's like, "Oh, okay. Yeah, that's that's not that's not conducive to anything.
So, if we want a little more dynamic, we're going to do a little If you want a little glow to it, you introduce the little yellow." And like the green is even a little more dynamic, but it has a natural highlight to it.
And the again I'm glazing the oils. So it's very subtle.
So already we have three different tonalities of green and we haven't used any green. We're just glazing our primary colors in.
And I'll keep playing with it because it'll dry and then I'll do more and it'll dry.
But that's basically how we experiment with our colors, guys.
And let me get some more a little separation on the back. The back I'm definitely going to have to go darker in some areas, but I'll probably go darker with more purple first because it'll give it some good depth.
I'm adding some highlights right now, >> but Naples yellow, if you're if you're oil painting, um any of the yellows, even with >> even with your acrylics are nice, like I said, remember, no black ruins stuff. Either >> paint gray, purple, even greens. Mix it in there.
And I'll do a few shots of this and post them so we could show that you could see get a better idea of what it looked like cuz obviously the camera blew everything out.
I have seen a scale model guy use a drawing box for his models. Oh yeah.
Yeah. I bet there's all sorts especially those uh those professional modelers.
You can learn a lot from those guys.
Holy crap. You talk about like the best rust effects, weathering, those modelers are who you want to learn from.
>> They are phenomenal and and they do everything to scale. and uh uh or not or era correct like if it's World War II or they're reenacting something Civil War everything has to be correct and to scale because they call each other out on it. Yeah. Cardboard box with a hole in the top. Oh yeah.
I So I don't have to do that because I don't I don't goop anything on anymore.
I, like I said, I use glazes and filters, and this is already dry to the touch, and we've been, well, I've been on here for an hour now, but I've been painting over it. I wouldn't be able to glaze like this if it was still super wet. Um, that's why people say I paint like a traditional oil painter because of how I approach my underpainting.
Um, so I was like, whatever. I mean, I'll I'll whatever box people try to put you in, but like I said, I just paint for the pleasure of it.
And I'll show you here. I'll do a white on a spot so you can see how it'll blend up. This is titanium white, so it's the whitest you can get.
Um, I clean the same brush off with some mineral spirits. I dry it off the best I can, and I get dry white. I know that sounds kind of opposite of what paints are.
And let's do well on his knuckles, right? Cuz I want to bring I'm going to glaze in purple on the knuckles and I didn't want to glaze it through I didn't want to glaze it through the skin. I want the purple to pop more. So then I'll set it up like this.
But now it looks like I have some spectral highlights. And all I did So, let's do a little bit of white.
>> I'm going to go in with flesh tone on his lips later.
Let's hit his teeth.
I know it looks like I'm just gunking it on there.
Maybe I am.
I know it's hard to tell in the light, but it looks like spectral highlighting just from the little bit of white I did, and it adds to the depth of it.
So, that's basically the beginning of how I did the washes. We didn't use any green. I wanted to establish a beautiful green or color. Uh, and I think we did.
I think this is better than the uh Warhammer box art, but you know, I'm a little biased.
Let's turn this off. See, we can get a little better, but definitely definitely love the way the colors are.
And I'll post some pictures after this so you guys can see actually how deep the green is. And again, we didn't use any greens.
So, before I turn this bad boy off and take a rest, are there any any questions or is there some things that you guys would like to see next? I think we were successful on our green.
Definitely turned out nice.
But like I said, I'm going to keep doing these on Fridays. Uh cuz once I get back to my regular job, um I'm off Friday, Saturday. So, but it'll be early in the day typically what my lives will be. So, Yeah, I think it does look killer, man.
I'll send uh a whip photo out on all of my social medias so everybody can see what the live was about and we can go from there. I think the next one will be gore. You guys want to learn how to paint the next >> gore as far as uh make it look more realistic and uh give it some more complexity because that's obviously something that I do a lot of as well. We'll see. I'll I'll send out a little poll and we'll see what everybody does. So, I appreciate everybody. Thank you for joining in. Those that could stay, uh, appreciate everybody asking questions and contributing. And, uh, we'll see you next time.
See you
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