Hughes turns a standard perfume review into a serious lesson on chemical engineering and mathematical balance. He successfully bridges the gap between artistic intuition and the rigorous science required to create a stable, luxury fragrance.
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'PARADIGME' by Prada | Perfumer Reviews
Added:My name's Aaron. Welcome back to my channel. How are you? I'm fantastic and I'm doing really well. And today, from the house of Prada, I am reviewing Paradigm. This is 87 pounds for 50 mil.
It's an eau de parfum. The top notes are bergamot, the mid is Bourbon geranium and the base is amber wood. And the marketing is, "What if there was another way? A fragrance that transcends traditional [music] preconceptions, opening a new olfactory [music] paradigm." Paradigm is such a weird spelling word.
Uh oscillating between warmth [music] and freshness, confidence is refined as curiosity, strength as finesse. [music] Somebody with a university English literature degree wrote all of that. Do we have our bottles of Prada Paradox?
I'll engage with the higher self. Let's get testing. So, what am I expecting from this fragrance? Well-created corporate perfumery, ambers, amber woods, Iso E Super, few naturals. The female version of this was quite radiant and uh quite potent.
So, I'm expecting the same. Clean, clean core, fresh.
Apart from that, no idea. Green, I'm kind of expecting green, actually, cuz it's a green bottle. So, let's have a look at the atomizer.
It's okay, standard. [music] Let's apply the fragrance and get on with the review.
Very nice. Smells absolutely corporate.
Smells absolutely commercial, mass appealing, radiant, substantial, sweet.
It reminds me of something similar to something else I've reviewed.
And I think that's the thing about these fragrances, they kind of all smell similarity between a lot of these fragrances. Nice bit of movement and radiance as I move my arm. It's got that building block, which is really nice, which is ISO E Super, vanillin, [music] ethyl vanillin, coumarin, ethyl maltol whipping for the base, oakmoss, evernyl, or very moss, aquatic raw materials, >> [music] >> giving it a dewiness, a freshness, and the lily of the valley raw materials giving it freshness. You have to get these raw materials right. I mean, if you're developing [music] fragrance, you really have to work on working with these raw materials like the freshness and aquatic feel with vanilla.
Because that needs to be balanced correctly. There's a balancing act within these. But once you understand the percentages [music] of what you're working with, the percentage of vanillin, ethyl vanillin against those raw materials, it's quite easy to replicate. [music] You know not to go over a certain percentage, and really I think good perfumers have made a lot of errors.
>> [music] >> Because you understand through errors when things don't work and why.
And that's really important because when you're formulating something quite complex, sometimes it can smell wrong or odd or off.
And if you don't understand the chemistry and the chemical interactions of these raw materials, you won't be able to [music] pinpoint it. Because sometimes they can become quite blended.
And uh you could be thinking, "Oh, what is it? There's something that's strange. It's an interaction between two raw materials."
And or it's a raw material where the percentage is a slightly too high or not enough.
And that's why the maths is very, very important within perfumery. And that's why perfumery is a really hard job. I think it's a a daily grind >> [music] >> to get things right. And then you get all uh when you're developing fragrance, you get a factory fatigue. You can't just get really fatigued.
>> [music] >> And your brain kind of gets fatigued to thinking all these sort of raw materials and interactions. But it absolutely reminds me of something. I think this core of vanillin, coumarin, ethyl maltol, ISO E Super just smells so familiar. It's just a really familiar.
I think that's important in majority of fragrances when you pick something up >> [music] >> and you apply it and it smells familiar. And that's these raw materials that have been selected.
And to my final thoughts.
I really like [music] this. I think it's a inoffensive, vibrant, sweet, clean, not particularly musk heavy. I love the use of habanolide.
Habanolide is one of my favorite musks.
High concentrations of habanolide.
>> [music] >> It gives you a clean powdery quality.
Quite high concentrations gives you an amber seed which is [music] like it's quite sweet and clean as well. So this is a sweet clean effervescent fragrance. Habanolide works with the whole fragrance actually.
Just very easy and dispensable. Doesn't flatten the fragrance [music] down.
Nice bit of a lift to it as well.
Diffusion. I like the use of ambers and amber wood like raw materials that are in this formula.
To me this is so safe and a little bit forgettable. Nice and forgettable. Absolutely not groundbreaking but smells clean and fresh.
I like the use of naturals in it as well. I think it's very nice. Bergamot's actually easy citrus to put in fragrances. Just so so easy. Really good quality bergamot is essential. You [music] absolutely differences with naturals. That's where I spend my money to be honest with you. The best quality naturals that I can get my hands on.
Really obsessed about it. The best quality. A lot of companies now do evernyl as different [music] trade names. So but they're all the same. There's no difference in it. Everything's gone up in price this year massively actually.
So kind of crazy. I think this is [music] a easy to wear fragrance. I think it's suitable for every kind of occasion. I don't think it's really suitable for going out clubbing unless you like things quite inoffensive. I think it's a really [music] good work fragrance and really good gym fragrance.
I think it's his a signature man's fragrance, easy to wear, but as I'm saying, easily forgettable. Really nicely constructed. [music] I'd love a little more punch in it, if I'm honest with you. I'd love a little bit more punch. It's so inoffensive and so suitable for everyone that it's kind of missing a little bit of attitude, a little bit of punch to it, which would have been nice to give it some backbone.
It just feels a little bit forgettable.
So, I'm going to mark this really difficult cuz these are so safe. Um my mind's going between >> [music] >> um seven and eight, to be honest with you. I think it's a little bit unforgettable, but very nice. Whereby I can thoroughly recommend it. The price is really good. I'll mark it an eight.
But, um it's a little bit [music] forgettable. So, we'll have that review.
Thumbs up for subscribe for fascinating, interesting content. Lots of moving hands and lots of fragrance views. Hope you're staying safe and well.
See you soon.
>> [music] [music]
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