Nintendo Switch OLED - No Power - 5v Charging - No Current

Added: 2026-05-09

[00:00:00]I paid a lovely jubbly £61.99 for this mysterious picage. We're going to get into it and see if it's something that is going to be fixed or if we're just going to have a really really bad day and completely and utterly fail, which wouldn't surprise me because I've actually had a good little runin recently of fixes. So, let's see what we got. Let's turn on the uh the old multimeter and whatnot. I've spent £62 on a box. A lovely jubbly okay condition if I do say so myself. Nintendo Switch OLED. Look at this bad boy. That looks great. Uh there is I can see two scratches on the screen. So if I try and get the right lighting, can you see we got scratch one here, scratch two, but to be honest, other than that, it's looking all right. So 62 for this I think is um is not is not too bad. It's funny really because I seem to be paying for these what I used to pay for normal Nintendo Switches when I started. So it's quite a big full circle thing for me at the moment. You know what I mean?

[00:00:58]It's quite a full circle thing for me to be able to see and buy an OLED for the same price I used to buy just normal switches. That's really interesting. I don't know what the issue is with this.

[00:01:06]I think it's a no power. We have an SD card. No SD card, no game. So, no bonuses unfortunately with this one.

[00:01:11]Should we see what the issue is with this? I'm just going to try and power it on real quick. Is that game card wasn't in properly cuz I didn't put it? That's not happening, is it? Nothing's happening. So, when we hold down the power button, nothing's happening. So, we're gonna get our ampmeter. This little doohickey device allows us to be able to read what kind of charge the switch is going to be taking. So, it makes makes our life a little bit easier. Allows us to be able to diagnose the fault a little bit earlier. Not all the time because it doesn't always work like that. What I'm going to do before I do that, I don't want to plug in these cables yet. Why don't I want to plug in these cables? Can somebody tell me in case it's shorted? That's number one.

[00:01:43]Yeah, I guess. Yeah, in case it's shorted. Now, the thing you you also kind of need to think is that if it is shorted, the chances are somebody has tried to already apply power into this device, but maybe it went into protection mode and for whatever reason, you know, my power source is not going to play protection mode and then it's going to inject x amount of voltage straight to the CPU. So, we do need to be careful. Could be water damage as well. Yeah, port itself. The port the port looks okay. Can you guys see? It looks absolutely fine. Looks fresh. And I'm really happy. Worm happy. It doesn't look like there's any water damage in there. Doesn't look like any water ingress has gone into this switch. What about the screws? Oh, hold. This may have been open before. I can't really tell. Let me look at the side ones cuz that's a a good I don't know if somebody's been inside the switch before. It's actually quite hard to tell with this one, you know. Three, two, one.

[00:02:29]Nothing. But that can sometimes indicate that we just need to flip this over. I might need to turn this turn this around because sometimes that's why this isn't working. So, let's turn it around. Oh, Ch. We get nothing. We get zero. I was going to see if we got a dodgy port.

[00:02:46]Doesn't feel like it.

[00:02:49]Okay. So, we get no power. Oh, to be fair, that's a very good point. If the battery I'll tell you what, if the battery isn't connected, that's a very, very, very good shout. If the battery isn't connected and we plug in, it should still go 20 volts. That's a really good shout because effectively we should still be getting power to the board and we still get zero. Ah, nice one, guys. Nice one.

[00:03:10]So it could be fuse, could be port, could be a bunch of different things.

[00:03:14]Could be what we like to call a plethora. Big word for me. All right, first inspection show then. So the battery is connected. We're not getting a charge. That is very concerning for me. That is very concerning. Like nothing nothing at all. As uh Flanders would say, hey, nothing at all.

[00:03:30]Look, zilch. Oh, wait. What?

[00:03:35]Why did that not happen before? Right. I can tell you right now what this issue what the issue is. I can tell you straight away. I'd go M92. I'd go M92. I am just going to check that this happens every time. Now, maybe I maybe the I don't know because I I even wiggled it and put it both ways. Look, cuz if I wiggle this, this port is fine. We have a constant connection all the time. But if I turn this round, watch.

[00:03:57]See that, guys? My money's on M92T36.

[00:04:00]M2T36 is a power management IC for the Nintendo Switch. And I think that's what's faulty. Now, let me just take that out. The battery. Plug it back in.

[00:04:09]5 volts, 5 Vs on the re, which means there's nothing to do with a battery. So BQ seems to be absolutely fine. Now on the back of this, we've got the M92T36, which is just about here. My guess and my bet was here. That was my guess and my bet. So let's see. I'm just going to ground the black probe and I'm going to poke. I think this cab incorrect. Let's go top one. No, this one. Oh. Oh.

[00:04:33]Oh, it looks like I'm incorrect. We've got ground this side. Let me just confirm. I'm just going to hold it on there a little bit longer cuz looks can be deceiving. We don't have a short.

[00:04:44]Doesn't mean that it's still not M92T36, but I'm now more thinking it's port related. We're getting 5 volts, so we're not getting our fully negotiated 20. And we don't have any shorts around M92T36.

[00:04:58]It could just still be a bad M92T36. Let me see what this uh fuse is saying. Let me see if I got a short on the fuse port side.

[00:05:08]No short. Okay. This side. No. So, the fuse isn't blown. Just make sure we get a uh a continuous path.

[00:05:16]We do. So, fuse is okay. And there's no shorts in the surrounding area. Should we only get 5 volts here? Now, I've already checked BQ. I just checked it.

[00:05:27]So, that still could just be a bad M92T36.

[00:05:36]Yeah, it could just be a bad M92T36.

[00:05:38]I'll just check the pins. I mean, it would be very, very rare for these to just come loose in the first place, you know. And the actual port itself, looking inside, it was a Okay. Get a little bit of a closer look now, but I think we're all right. Yeah, doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the port.

[00:05:50]I think it's 792T36. So, just to confirm again, if I go ahead and plug in the AM meter, what you'll see on screen is it's just 5 volts. So, just to confirm, if I go into DC voltage mode as well, I'll tell you exactly what this reads on the fuse. It should be 5 volts.

[00:06:06]It's 5 volts. Okay. So, we have 5 volts either side of the fuse. So, we know that fuse is good. Essentially, the current is uh the voltage is bypassing the fuse and going into the main board.

[00:06:16]I think it's uh I think it's going to be M92T36 is we'll just go for a quick change. That's going to be our quickest thing. Um I need a M92T36. Now, personally, I like to grab these from donor boards. And oh, there's one. And the reason being is because I trust them more than AliExpress at the moment. If I had no uh chips, I'd grab one from uh I'd grab one from AliExpress, like a brand new one. This doesn't look soldered on correctly to me. Maybe it is. It just looks a little bit lopsided.

[00:06:40]I'm not going to go 450. I think it's a bit too much nowadays. I'm going to go 420 circulating in the hot air. 420° C.

[00:06:46]It's a 50% as well. Should be suffice.

[00:06:53]That comes off. And then we'll grab the M92T36 on the normal switch. I'll be honest with you, I used to hear like when I first started out, a lot of people were talking about M uh BQ being a big issue. But for me personally, I could probably put on two hands how many BQs I've changed out. M2T36, I wouldn't be able to count with hands, toes, bits of my body that I have. So, get a tiny little bit of flux here as well, just at the corner. That's all I'm going to do.

[00:07:13]Look, you guys might be thinking, Jake, what? That's none. That's nothing. What are you doing? You don't need that much flux, man. This is If anything, this might be too much. So, we'll just heat around the area because the more you put, the more you have to clean. Now, this chip's not sat properly. Once we apply the heat because of the flux, even though it's unloaded, it should bounce into place. If it doesn't bounce into place, we give it a little tap. But you see that I didn't I didn't even touch it. Bounce into place lovely. Give it a final whisk of hot air. I don't need to push down, nothing like that. I'll just come off. And this is I haven't swapped out the solder, guys. So, there's no there's no swapping the unled for leaded, nothing like that. It is just a case of replacing the chip. Wait, did I put it on the right way?

[00:07:51]I might have put it on the wrong way because I've just carried it over from one without checking. Yeah, I have.

[00:07:54]Good. I didn't apply power to this.

[00:07:56]Look, if I had given this power, it could have been it could have been an issue. So, we'll just simply take it off. And I'm just going to wait for it to cool. There's no point in trying to rush this and be and be all quick about it. You just take your time. So, we we rotate it. We grab it again. The other board, place the chip on. Just a simple little rotation.

[00:08:13]Come off.

[00:08:16]It's not in the right place, but that's fine. Now, I should have enough flux on here theoretically for this to just flow in place. Let's see. There we go. Look, no fly. Anybody give this a poke? Watch it bounce back. See how it bounces back at that ever so like little bit. Now, I'm also assuming that this M92T36 that I've taken from this donor board is okay. I will just give this a final clean with a toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol using my dispenser.

[00:08:39]I'm going to go back into continuity mode now, which is the mode that beeps.

[00:08:41]I'm just going to measure to make sure that this chip isn't short because I've taken it from a donor. So, if the multimeter beeps, we've got an issue.

[00:08:49]We're good. We're fine. Let me just I'm just going to quickly check because I need to check P13 USB. I don't think I've seen a 5 volt draw on a 5 volt draw, sorry, on a bad P13 USB, but it's worth a check. No, that's okay. And visually looking at this, I don't think we've got any issues elsewhere. So, we're just going to plug this in now.

[00:09:03]I'm just going to plug this in and see if we get 15 volts. So, where we're looking is the ampmeter drop to zero. Drop to zero. There we go.

[00:09:13]That's what I'm talking about. I can't believe it. I think this is a just a simple M92T36.

[00:09:19]Yeah, it's going to work. It's going to work. It's going to work.

[00:09:24]Show me a battery symbol. Come on, please. Let's go.

[00:09:29]Is this switch going to turn on? That's my question I have right now, guys. Oh, not planned. I promise that was not rigged. That was not rigged. Lord glove.

[00:09:38]Now, you can see some lines on the screen, right? That's only because of the frame rate of the camera. Yep. It finds my SSID. And the chances of this not working when it finds your SS ID is very, very slim. It's like 99% success rate if it finds SSID. From my experience, it seems to be working absolutely fine. I will just really really quickly test the game. Let's go.

[00:09:54]Game works. Wi-Fi works. I think that is that Nintendo Switch OLED fixed. And the good thing as well is that this device will probably go for around about £100 or so. So, we've made a decent amount of profit today. If you did enjoy it, please consider hitting the thumbs up button. Subscribe to the channel if you're new around here. And as always, I shall see you in the next one. Peace.