Installing a shim in a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) increases preload on the clutch packs, making the differential tighter and more effective at transferring torque between wheels during off-road driving; this is a cost-effective alternative to installing a locking differential, with shim thickness (typically 0.35-0.9mm) chosen based on how worn the LSD already is and how much additional locking capability is needed.
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The MOST Capable 4WD We've Ever Built.Added:
Good day, guys, and welcome back to King Chrome Build Wars 2.0. In the last episode, you saw us working on the G. We actually did a manual transmission swap.
That was awesome. And in this episode, we're continuing along with our 5K upgrade budget. And we got some tasty mods installed, don't we, Dan?
>> That's right. And of course, the first job for today is going to be some off-road performance upgrades. Now, you guys have probably seen while we're in Tazzy, the GU did pretty well, or we think it did pretty well. But one thing that was a little bit of a let down was the rear diff. Now, we would have loved to have put a locking rear diff in this, whether it be an air lock or an e- locker, but unfortunately the budget didn't quite allow for that. So, in the spirit of build wars and the spirit of Aussieos, we're going for a cheaper option. We're going to be putting a $15 LSD shim in the back of this thing, which should greatly improve its off-road performance. Now, while we're at it, we're also going to be doing some weight reduction. Put this thing on a bit of a diet because she's a heavy girl and it did slow us down a bit. So, more off-road capability there hopefully. Uh, and then we're also going to be adding some shiny stuff maybe down here as well as under the back of the car, which should make this thing absolutely unstoppable. That's it, mate. Let's get this thing on the hoist and get into it.
Let's do it.
>> Five teams, five unique builds. We're back once again to take on Victoria's toughest terrain. Steeper climbs, bigger rocks, rougher tracks, and a smaller budget. And this time, we crown a winner. This is King Build Wars.
For Build Wars 2, our goal is to really improve the capability of the Big 48 so we can keep up with the rest of the big rigs on the trip. And we're hoping that the mods we have installed for today should sort that out. So, before we can actually go and shim our LSD, we've actually got to get the diff out of the car first. So, in order to do that, it shouldn't be too hard. We pretty much just got to pull the axles out of both sides. Uh, and that will allow us to pull the differential out. Now, what we are going to do before we pull the wheels off is we or me and Dan, we're going to test our LSD because we have suspicions that it's pretty worn. So, pretty much what we can do is Dan will jump on one tire and I'll jump on the other tire and we pretty much push or pull against each other. So, Dan's going to hold it steady and I'm going to pull down and see how much it takes.
>> Oh, wow.
>> Pretty That's pretty easy.
>> That's like That's like Patty's Land Cruiser LSD.
>> Yeah. What the hell? They must have This This must have had a Toyota dip swap at some point. Oh, no. But there you go. So, that's that's definitely not as tight as ones I've felt in the past. And obviously, like it is different when you're actually got the weight of the car on it. Um, it operates differently. But, >> well, they lock based on torque.
Basically, the more the more torque you try and put across it, the more it wants to lock. But, if it's like that to start with, it's definitely not going to help.
>> Yeah. So, anyway, hopefully we can uh fix that.
>> Yeah.
>> To be able to remove the diff, we need to strip down the whole axle. This involves removing the brake assembly as well as pulling out the axles. But this will be a good opportunity to inspect all the components for any wear or need of replacement.
Pulling this down will also allow us to remove all of the handbrake assembly from the rear axle as we changed to a transfer brake in the last episode. So all of this stuff here is obsolete.
>> Oh wow, look at that. Good luck undoing that train.
>> I may need some cold chiseling there.
Looks like it's like welded in.
>> Yeah, you did that.
>> I did that.
>> They may notice an ongoing theme that everything that's broken on the car >> happens to be Lamb's fault.
>> Oh my god. What the hell even is that?
>> Might need to actually cold jiggle it.
>> H rock scrapage.
>> So much pressure it like literally formed a rock just like how the earth was.
>> Formed a rock.
>> Like there's diamonds in here somewhere.
Diff drain plugs can be notoriously hard to remove because of where they're located and all the abuse that they do, cop, and this one was no different.
Look at that.
Look at that.
That was the shocking of the threads.
>> Yeah, I definitely planned that to be that easy.
With the diff drain plug removed, we could drain the oil and inspect its condition and then move on to removing the drive shaft and then finally remove our axles.
>> Those bearings are sweet as.
>> Yes, Patrol rear wheel bearings don't wear out. This one's a little bit milky in here, like there's been some non diff oil.
Upon removing the axles, it was pretty obvious that a few of our seals had worn out. So, they'll have to get replaced when we stick everything back together.
But with the axles removed, it does mean the diff is now free to come out. So, let's unbolt it and get it out.
You going to be right with that on your own?
>> I think so.
Yep.
Don't drop the baby.
>> Solid advice, Liam.
>> Okay.
>> To the workbench.
>> A ding counter.
>> What is it? Boy or girl.
>> Patrol diff.
>> Patrol diff. It's a boy. It's a man. It was born a man.
>> Well, it looks like it was the day it got put in the car. I wonder if >> what >> that's not the big LSD.
>> You don't say that. You sure?
>> I think that's one of the little ones.
>> I thought Aaron said they're out of a GQ.
>> I don't I'm pretty sure the big ones are like like big.
I'm pretty sure that's a one of the small ones.
I'm going to say, should I just send a message? Can you ID? Is this a >> big or small?
>> Small LSD.
>> It's a good idea.
>> Oh, the first hiccup. It's always fun.
Look, I mean, we can just >> It was going too well.
>> Like, we can just send it anyway. Like, if we're shiming it, but like >> it's like more annoying than anything.
>> Well, I don't know if the shim fits the small LSD.
>> Guess what Tyler said?
>> Small.
>> That's a baby, mate. Ah, >> Definitely don't shim it. They delete themselves often.
>> So, what does this all mean? So, in a GU, which is news to me, there is, well, I did know this. Tyler told us a while ago, there is a small and a big LSD.
Now, as far as I know, the housing is the same.
>> The gears are the same.
>> Yeah, they are.
>> Just that LSD center component there is a different size LSD. So, I think the plates in the LSD are smaller, which means they're worse. Basically, >> they Yeah.
>> They wear the clutch packs earlier. They don't grip up as well.
>> Yeah. Yeah. And I think they tend to break easier, like break the gears themselves.
>> Exactly. And the problem pretty much here, well, why we're sort of so surprised. Um, all GQs have the big LSD early. I think it's series 1, two, and three. GU are meant to have the big LSD as well. And then series 4 onwards have this small one. So, this should be a series, two or three.
>> Series three.
>> So, >> I thought it should have the big LSD.
>> It was replaced. I know the diff's been replaced in the car cuz it was done before it was parked up before we bought it. Um because it had water in it >> and he replaced the diff, but obviously he must have just opted for just put a GU diff in it. I don't think he knew that there was different LSDs which realistically >> you like if the housing fits.
>> Yeah, >> they probably just put cuz AZ didn't do it himself. He had someone do it. They probably just put his gears for what are they? 43s on to this center which is out of a GU but probably a later GU.
>> So we need a big LSD center which I have but it's at my house. It's like 2 hours away.
>> Might be doing a night run in the Falcon.
>> Good thing Good thing fuel's cheap at the moment.
>> Yeah, good thing that LPG is affordable at the moment. The Falcon doesn't doesn't care.
So, pretty much this little baby LSD is not going to do it, especially for what we've got in mind for this car. You've seen how this thing gets driven. So, uh, what have we decided, Dan?
>> Well, as you said, this one's not going to cut it. So, we need a big LSD like the one sitting in my shed. So, looks like we're up for a road trip.
>> Yeah. I mean, nothing like driving around Victoria. It's not that far.
>> It's only like >> few hour round trip, but we'll go get the LSD off Dan shelf and then we can come back and rebuild this one. We're going to drop hungry.
>> Going home.
>> Taxi service. We're in a gas belt.
>> Pretty much is a taxi.
>> The old gas barrel.
>> As I said, I don't mind doing a round trip. My in this economy, at least the car's on gas.
>> So, we made our way all the way down to Dan's place where we knew there was a diff for us sitting on the shelf.
>> All right, we made it to Dan's shed.
>> We have.
>> And now we've got a I hope the diff's here. I hope so.
>> You definitely had it, didn't you?
>> Yeah. Yeah. Well, yeah. I pulled two out of a GQ >> and we put the one that's in the front of my car and I kept the other one as a spare for my car.
>> Okay.
>> But now I won't have a spare.
>> A Well, that's all right.
>> When my big TV blows its dick.
>> Yeah. Yeah, that's it. All right. Let's see if we can find this thing. It's buried.
>> It's in here.
>> It's buried in here somewhere.
>> In the collection of patrol drive line.
>> That looks a bit more like it. Yeah.
Yeah, the big >> kind of want to just double check before we drive, >> you know.
>> Yeah, we can we can >> Imagine if we go all the way back and it's like, oh, and we got a front diff.
>> Yeah, that's LSD.
>> That's a big LSD.
>> That's what we want.
>> LSD. See, >> I knew I had one right here in the diff section.
>> All right, >> in the car.
>> Let's go.
>> So, we made the late night trek back home to the shed so we could get stuck into rebuilding this diff. All right, so we're back from our little side quest and we've collected what is the correct diff we need to do this properly and correctly. So yeah, what are we looking at, Dan?
>> Well, basically this is a well this is a GQ rear diff. So an LSD rear diff center out of a GQ. Um, as I said before, it came out of the same one that is now in the front of my GQ but with a lock center in it. Um, and you can see looking at the two of these sitting next to each other on the bench, the center of that or the actual housing that houses the limited slip center is way bigger.
>> Yeah. Like >> we pretty much knew as soon as we put that on the bench that something wasn't right.
>> So, we're going to build this one basically, which is convenient that I grabbed it when I did cuz it was a spare for mine. I'm never going to need it.
>> I actually grabbed it thinking it might come in handy at some point. And >> now we're at some point. So, we're going to put this shim in this center with this crown wheel in this housing.
>> Yes.
>> Okay.
Keep up.
>> You know what the best part about this whole mission is? Now there's going to be GQ parts in the GU, which will make it better.
>> Even better.
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> So, with our desired big LSD in hand, we can now disassemble this diff to remove that center. And then we can look into shimming it. To get to our new LSD, we're going to have to remove the bearing caps, take the center out, and then separate our crown wheel gear from the center. Luckily, we've completed quite a few diffs over the last few months, so we're pretty familiar with the process.
Nice. So, now that we've got our GQ LSD center out of that diff, before we can reassemble it with everything else, we're going to be installing our new shim. Now, that basically means we take this apart, install this shim into the clutch pack and shim assembly in here.
And what that'll do is tighten up the LSD. So, basically, an LSD needs torque or basically one wheel trying to spin at a higher speed than the other while the drive shaft is giving it torque. That makes an LSD want to lock up. So, you set your preload on the LSD with shims. And I believe they'd be set like that from factory. They're setting it up to a clearance spec.
basically new clutch plates, new shims.
It all goes together and it works good, right? We're pushing the car harder than it was originally intended to be pushed.
So, we're putting another shim in there to make the diff tighter. Now, >> if you were just running to the shops in the car, probably not required and probably would make the drivability worse.
>> But, if you got one wheel on a big rock and the other one hovering in the air, >> good idea.
>> And you're and you also don't have enough money for a locker, I think that's worth noting as well.
>> Yeah. Yeah. So, uh, right, let's get this thing apart and get this shim installed. Probably a good time to mention I've never done this before.
You've never done this before?
>> No. So, we'll see how we go. Apparently, it's pretty straightforward. So, >> what these do have, right, which I don't know if King Chrome want me to tell you this, but they did make it hexagonal on the outside screwdriver. So, >> what you can do, drop your 8 mil. Yes.
Is do that.
>> And now you have Make sure you put enough pressure >> that it doesn't want to >> Well, did you know, Dan, that cuz Phillips are designed to torque out at Well, I don't know if they still are, but I know like I think I watched this YouTube video on Phillips and when they used to make all the planes so that they didn't overtighten them. A Phillips head is designed that you can only torque it so far before this wants to torque out of the head so you don't overtighten it and, you know, strip it or >> checks out.
>> Something interesting. Anyway, do you want to hold that and I'll hold this?
Is that the tight one?
>> I think so.
>> Not anymore.
>> Yeah, it seems to be tight. Are we flipping?
>> I reckon flip it first. Just pull off the small end first before we pull the whole big end off.
>> Tada. Told you.
>> A shins.
>> There you go.
>> Look at that.
>> So, as you can see, what we have inside the diff here is effectively exactly what we're putting in. Just another one of them. And these all come in varying sizes. So, it's probably worth mentioning that um in our case, uh Petrol Parts sell a variety of different thickness of shims depending on how much you want to tighten your LSD. Um I think the more common sizes are.3.5 7 and maybe even a 0.9 if you really really want to tighten her up. Um, we've sort of gone middle of the road. 0.5 the s from what I had read online. If you go three, you know, it's a coin toss as to whether it might actually do something because depending on how worn your LSD already is depicts how big a shim you need. Um, 7 is like it'll like 90% chance just going to lock it. And five is hopefully that sweet middle spot where we get a good combination of a tight LSD that doesn't just want to do chirpies all the time when we're trying to drive it.
>> Yeah. And unfortunately with this thing, it is just a testing game. You just have to try and find out and hope that it's right. Otherwise, >> I'm sure there is somewhere in Japan when they put these together some very specific method of measuring every clutch pack and >> Yeah, I'm sure >> measuring every motor and everything.
Yeah, correct.
>> No one does that. So, we're just going to bolt it in and see how it drives.
>> Yeah.
>> What's under here?
>> Another shim.
It's >> under this shim.
>> Another shim.
>> Oh, those are the clutch packs. Yeah.
Yeah.
>> Yeah. So, all you'll see, and you'll see it. This is I mean, it's kind of like a wet It's basically a wet clutch, an in LSD, but all you're doing is you've got these plates. These will be your steel plates that are locked into the housing.
>> Mhm.
>> And then you've got your friction discs, which or clutch packs, whatever you want to call them. Friction discs, which are locked into the center.
>> Grooves on the opposite way on there, too.
>> Yeah. So, that's what you're meshing when it when it when it loads up. you're essentially applying pressure to those plates and therefore trying to lock one side of the rotating group to the other.
>> Now, as for where this shim goes in your stack of shims and clutch packs, obviously listen and don't say, "Hey, if your LSD is a bit loose, just go whack one of these, you know, that'll sort it out." So, they don't actually tell you if it should go top or bottom, but from what we've read online, it seems people have success with putting it either right at the bottom or right at the top.
Although we have heard that putting it at the top is easier because you can better make sure it's all aligned when you reassemble it. So that's what we're going to do. Literally sit it straight on top like that. Yep. And then when we put our top back on, we'll know it's all aligned. So with our LSD shim now in place, we can reassemble the LSD. Now, you want to be careful when putting it back together that that shim does not move because it will prevent you from closing the LSD back up properly. So, with us happy with where the shim is, we turned it over, put some bolts in, and then could continue on. Next, we have to disassemble our other diff so we can swap the gears onto our new center.
Before we disassemble it, we're going to be measuring the backlash of the diff as a reference. And this is because when we reassemble it, it's unlikely that with a worn gear set, we're going to be able to match the factory specifications. So, we'll be able to use this as a guide for reassembly.
Yep. That's all. Like speaks for itself, doesn't it?
>> Yeah.
>> Like I don't even know where the clutch packs in this thing are. Like it's like it's saying only got a bottom pack.
>> Yeah.
>> Well, they're there. I can see it. Just I can see.
>> But like is there any up here?
>> I don't know.
>> They have to. They're just tiny.
>> They must just be so small. When you look at the physical size of those clutch packs, like those ones are like that big and those are that big.
>> So yeah, that shim I can now confirm definitely would not fit in this.
>> No. Yeah. Yeah. Without a doubt.
>> Not a chance. You could probably find some way of shimming that but it's not going to be worth it.
>> Cut a beer can.
>> You Yeah, you'll have like a a shimmed diff for like the first hill you go up and then you'll rapidly have >> Yeah.
>> Very open diff.
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> With our crown wheel removed, we're ready to install it onto our new LSD center.
Quick side note as I've just realized we've gone to put this together. These bolts that are out of the small LSD center are actually a shorter shank bolt uh than out of the thicker uh big LSD center. So glad we picked up on it cuz that only had about three threads before it would have needed to be basically done up with a bar. So you can see that this material here is actually thicker than it is in the other center. So, they've just supplied longer bolts with it. So, use the bolts that match the center, not the bolts that match the crown wheel. We put all of our crown wheel bolts back in, making sure to use a liberal amount of Loctite. And then we can torque it all to spec.
With the diff center all reassembled, we're ready to go and stick it back in the diff carrier. If you are wanting to learn a bit more about the process of rebuilding and installing your diff center, we've done an awesome video on how to do a locker into a diff, which covers all the basic processes.
With the diff all reassembled, we're then ready to set up our dial gauge so we can reme-measure our backlash and then our gear mesh.
The gear mesh is observed by painting the gears with gear marking compound and then rotating the diff under some load resistance. And then we look at the contact patch between the crown wheel and the pinion. With a worn gear set and without adjusting the pinion, it can be hard to get the perfect contact patch on both the drive and coast side of the crown wheel. But we got it to a point where we were pretty happy with it. So, we toalked it all up and this thing was ready to go back in the car.
>> All right. Well, that is a diff.
>> It is a diff.
It was getting quite late now, but the last step was to clean up the mounting phase, put on some new RTV silicon, and then put the diff back into its home.
With the diff back in, we decided to call it for the night and continue with the mods in the morning.
Well, to follow up our diff parts run, we've come to patrol a part again.
>> Again, because we've realized after pulling the rear end apart that we need more pieces later.
>> Thanks very much. Cheers. Have a good one.
>> Too easy.
>> Parts. Parts and seals. Nice. Nice.
>> Now, while the rear's disassembled, we did notice that some of our seals must have been leaking as there was some water present inside the grease, which we don't want. So, we figured while it's all apart, it would be best to replace these seals. But to get to some of them, we do have to pull apart the hubs, and that means pulling out the wheel bearings. So, we'll put in a fresh set of those while we're here, too. The patrol bearings in the rear are quite large and can be a pain to replace, so I recommend having a press nearby if you plan on doing it yourself.
With the axles and hubs reassembled, we can pull out our old inner axle seals and replace them with some fresh ones.
We're adding some extra sealant alongside our gaskets just to make sure that no water can get in.
>> This is why the GU never breaks down.
This is how it's getting treated.
>> Lastly, the axles can be installed and bolted in, followed by our brakes, as well as some fresh diff oil for our new LSD center. And then we're ready to give this thing a test.
All right, so we got all the rear diff back together and we got the wheels on.
And now is the exciting part. We get to actually test our LSD and see if it's made any difference, which I really think it will have. But what we'll do, same as we did before, I'll get Dan to hold that wheel from spinning and I'm going to hang off this and see how much effort it takes to sort of break the uh the limited slip. So, let's see. You ready, Dan?
>> Whenever you're ready.
>> Oh, it's a lot tighter.
>> You're about to lift me off the ground.
>> I just hung off the car.
>> I just I literally hung off the car.
>> You lifted off >> and I did my feet off again.
>> I was just hugging the wheel trying to stop it moving. That's wild.
>> Yeah. So, definitely tight.
>> Oh, mate. This is gonna be awesome.
>> Yeah. Great.
>> This is the $15 locker.
>> Yeah.
>> Now, obviously, we want to get out and have a test of this new setup on the road. But before we do that, we have a couple more jobs to do on the hoist.
Starting with the lower trailing arms.
Now, we didn't notice until after we got back from Tazzy, but while we were on the trip for Billboards 1, these lower trailing arms got bent. Now, this one more specifically than the other, it's pretty bad. Now, obviously, we need to replace those and we may as well upgrade them to something that's less likely to get bent on the next trip. And normally, if we were doing this on our own cars, we'd go to Fulcrim, get a set of heavy duty upgraded ones like what's in Lamb's car, and bolt them straight in. But obviously with Billboards, the budget dictates we can't just do that. So, we've had to go custom and make some ourselves. Let's take a look. To make these heavy duty arms, we're going to be using a set of old standard arms the boys had sitting in a pile of parts out the back of the shed. Now, we didn't realize this at first, but one of these arms was actually slightly bent. So, I've straightened it out first using a hydraulic press. Then, with the arm straightened, I pushed out the old bushes, and we were ready to start bracing.
For bracing, I've chosen to use some 30x30 3M wall SHs, which should be plenty strong enough for what we're doing. I'm cutting out one side of the entire length of the tube, basically making a C channel, and then scalloping out the ends to neatly wrap around each end of the arms.
They can then be tacked in place before being welded out fully. Now, for this job, I'm using my new UniG NV250, which is super easy to use. You just set the material you want to weld, and it figures out all the rest.
With the arms all welded up, I can give them a quick clean up with a flap disc.
And lastly, make them pop with a fresh coat of paint. Now, Liam has no idea what these arms look like, and he certainly doesn't know what color I'm painting them, but I reckon he's going to love the look of these things.
So, this is the finished product. And I did tell Liam I painted them a bright color, but he hasn't seen them yet. So, he doesn't know what design I went with or what color they are. So, come on, mate. Have a look. Tell us what you reckon.
>> Oh, yeah.
Is that like king chrome blue?
>> It is king chrome blue.
>> I figured it's king chrome billboards.
We might as well have some king chrome arms.
>> Far out. They're meaty, too. Look at that.
>> I don't think we're going to be bending that.
>> Oh, well, I was I don't want to jinx it, but I was going to set you a personal challenge of see if you can try and bend that.
>> I don't think I could have bent the factory ones, to be honest. But that's solid as. Good work.
>> So, I think she came up pretty solid.
So, she's braced right across the bottom and then the tube that I welded to it also wraps around the bush eye there so it doesn't want to tear.
>> Yeah, break them. Definitely.
>> Perfect.
>> I think those should hold up.
>> Yeah, I'd say. Wow, I've got the perfect thing to go with them. I got some fresh bushes.
>> I'll go get them.
>> All right, fresh bushes. And they're blue to match as well, mate.
>> Color coded.
>> That's it. So, I guess we'll take these over to the press or the vice and squish them in there and Yeah. Then we can swap out the arms.
>> Yeah. Yep. Sweet. Should be perfect.
So, we lubed up our new Super Pro bushes as well as the eyes of the arms. And to install these into the arms, we actually found the best method was going to be to use a bit of all thread with some washers on each end to actually squeeze the bush into the end of the arm.
With our new blue arms all assembled and ready to go into the car, all we had to do was remove the old ones, which obviously being old, we're a little bit stubborn, but we got them out. and the new ones could go in.
Well, that's the new lower trailing arms in. Time for our final modification.
All right, so the under the car is looking a hell of a lot better. We got our fresh tight LSD, which I can't wait to try. And our arms are now looking pretty flat under now, I'd say, Dan.
But, uh, we got something else, don't we? Yeah, that's right. We got one last mod to go for this car. So, we're going to go head down and see Nathan Tread Works. He's got something special waiting for us. So, let's get down there and get into it. So, we've come down to Tread Works today as we are going to be changing up our wheel and tire combo.
Now, before anyone panics, we are keeping the SimXs. These things absolutely ate mud in Tazzay, so they're staying on the car for sure. However, we did have a few issues with our wheels.
So, if you guys watched the last billboard series, you would have seen us fit these things up with internal bead locks. Now, you may have seen on the trip, we had some issues with the tire deflating. Basically, they were getting mud or rocks in the bead as they've been forced into the side of ruts and then deflating the tires. They never actually came off the bead, but they did deflate the tires. Now, if you were running these in any sort of maybe a touring setup, some semih hard off-roading and a normal tire, as in a radial belted tire, I don't think you'd have these issues.
But being a bias ply fitted to a steely, I think we were asking a little bit much with the particular driving style for the car. So, we've come down here to Tread Works today because we're going to fit these things up on some real mechanical beadlocks.
Now, our first step is going to be to get these Syxes off of their old rims, and it's going to allow us to inspect the second air beadlocks inside and see if any damage was done on the trip to Tasmania.
>> Oh. Oh, I don't know if we're patching that.
>> No.
>> Oh, the Kevlar bag's cooked.
>> Oh, what the hell?
TB48 is stronger than Kevlar >> as the tires turn inside out.
>> Oh no.
>> So maybe do we just want to explain then? Well, we're discovering this for the first time as well, but that's pretty much the problem that that happened pretty early on in the trip.
So, this this tire was the one tire that had the completely failed bead lock where I think what would have happened is it got dirt in the bead, tire went completely flat, we didn't realize or didn't care and kept driving and it >> Yeah, I'd say that's probably from rolling around.
>> Yeah.
>> Well, as soon as Well, that's the thing, right? Like, as soon as the tire goes flat, >> you're sitting on and and then you're still driving the carpet hill. You don't know the tire's gone flat. And then all of a sudden it's all getting minced up in there.
>> And it's trying what I think is as you're flat out into it as well, the tires trying to turn on the wheel and the bead locks trying to hold it. So it's trying to twist the bead lock with the tire.
>> It's uh Yeah.
>> Yeah. So pretty much that was one of the like that's right there is why we're changing wheels effectively >> because once that's happened all of a sudden you're trying to run a basly tire just on a steel rim and it kept coming off >> over and over. A >> lot of small details to it but basically what you need to know is Liam broke it.
>> It's definitely him.
>> That's not ideal.
>> The plot thickens.
Now, unfortunately, as we pulled each of the other tires apart, we'd realized we'd actually broken three of the four internal beadlock bags. This came as a bit of a surprise to ourselves as well as Nathan, as he's fitted these things a bunch of times before and has never had any issues, but we suspected it may be something to do with our choice of tire.
Um, yeah. Yeah. So, as far as the internals go, it's uh it's something that well, this has been honestly the first time we fit them to biasly stuff and based it's it's for off-road use only type thing. So, the sidewalls got a lot more give in it, a lot more flex, that's what they use for competition stuff and everything like that. So, whether or not that's a little bit too much for the internals. Um, >> but I mean, we fit a lot of these to a lot of, you know, steel belted radial stuff. never had any returns, no dramas, you know, um had the people back.
They've been really happy with them.
They're doing what they're supposed to.
But in this instance, I think uh running, you know, a marketplace secondhand bias ply tire, the uh yeah, the mechanical bead locks is probably the better option. Let's just call it user error. Hey Dan.
>> Yeah, we'll put that one down error.
>> Nonetheless, the reason we'd come down to Tread Works was to fix this issue.
And I think the new wheels we've got lined up should solve it.
Oh, mate. So, these are the wheels we've decided to go with for the big GU. Now, these are a DWC lockup in a 16 by 8 1/2, I believe. And we looked at a few options before we got these. So, we looked at secondhand ones. Um, basically anything in a 16 is hard to find, and we wanted to stick with our Simxes. So, there's not heaps of beadlocks in a 16.
Usually they're 17s. Um, and anything secondhand is a little bit like they're always going to have been mistreated.
That's why you put them on a car. So, Nate was able to do us a killer deal on these. So, yeah, it ended up being a good price. We've got five of these. And obviously, we're not going to have any issues being a brand new wheel. And as a side effect, they look amazing. I'm so keen to see how these look on the car cuz they are way too shiny for the rest of the car. So, let's get this thing fitted up onto the Syxes and see how they look. I tell you what, Dan, we're going to be the flashest boys out with our with our wheels.
>> They are so clean.
>> I just think they are going to set the car off a bit.
>> Oh, definitely. Definitely. Yeah, they're not exactly subtle.
>> No. Yeah, we're not trying to uh we're not very inconspicuous with these.
Being a true beadlock wheel, not only should we have any issues with debeading a tire, but it also should prevent any dirt and mud getting jammed in between the bead and the tire that would normally cause a leak with a steel rim.
>> What do you reckon, Dan?
>> Mate, they already look so much better.
I'm waiting to see what it looks like when it inflates cuz it'll sort of balloon out, but it's >> Yeah, >> that looks so good.
>> They look They look too good. They're the sort of wheel that like you don't want to get that all muddy, do you?
>> I'm going to have to watch Lamb doesn't steal them for his patrol. Going to have to put bloody lock nuts on them or something. Good choice, Nate. Your suggestion.
>> He knows what the people want. Chrome.
>> I love dad chrome.
>> Dad chrome.
>> Chroy.
>> Sounds like Nickelback.
>> We're hoping that chrome is going to get us home on this next build wars trip.
So, we fitted up the rest of the new rims to our simxes and got them all balanced up. and then we're looking ready to go.
>> So, that's it for today from down here at Tread Works. We've got the Thyxes fitted up to our new wheels, and I think these look absolutely mint. I can't wait to get them on the car and see how they look fitted up to the big GU. So, let's get these things back to the shed and get them fitted.
We wasted no time getting the new wheels bolted up to the big 48 as we're dying to see how they looked and also to take this thing for a test drive so we can see how that LSD performs underneath.
Well, that's the wheels torqued up.
Let's get this thing out of the shed.
>> Oh, I can hear that inner tire just wanting to turn with uh >> the limited slip is limiting slip.
>> It is definitely limiting slip, which is exactly what we wanted. Yeah, exactly.
Well, that's perfect. You want it to lock up when it's under torque, like going up a hill.
>> Yeah. And obviously at the moment we're on dirt, so we'll be able to see a difference as soon as we get on to Benjamin, but even like around >> It doesn't sound horrible there. When it's not loaded up, it's fine.
>> Well, here's the test. So, we've just jumped on the Benjamin and we're going to turn around a 90° corner pulling out.
Yeah.
>> So, we'll see if the tires like realistically, it probably shouldn't going slow. It'll only do it if we're um accelerating.
>> Yeah.
It's fine. Didn't didn't screech at all.
>> Yeah.
>> All right, let's test this LSD. Hey.
>> Yes, we're still in two wheel.
>> And my clutch.
>> Yeah. If doesn't stall the car, we're obviously in high range. Two wheel.
See how much Oh, >> that's it. That's fairly articulated before it >> Yeah. I mean, it's fully loaded up.
>> Yeah.
>> There you go.
>> Yeah. See?
>> So, it needs torque needs torque to lock an LSD. So, when you're completely stationary and one wheel's completely unloaded and one wheel's fully loaded, it's always going to struggle. But I could see from the back then you sort of see one wheel, if Lamb stays on it, you sort of see one wheel lose traction and the LSD sort of catches it and it just skips it up. So, it sort of helps in that sort of thing.
If you can roll it back and ease into it and actually give it a bit of pedal, it'll work.
>> So, so we're going to have to not drive like nannies is what you're telling me.
>> Basically, you're going to have to drive it like it's a TB48.
>> Drive it like you stole it.
>> Well, I'm not saying that. I'm just saying it's a TB48 manual.
>> Yeah.
>> I'll let you work the rest out for yourself.
>> Cool. Well, what would what should we try next? One of these things these try one of those hills.
>> Yeah. I mean, I don't have low range, but I >> range is the issue. Just >> don't quite have the curry there.
>> Now you're in a predicament.
>> Yeah, I know.
>> You're right. Let it go.
>> I stole it.
>> I I didn't stand on the brake and drop the clutch and let the revs off. It's not a It's not a TD42. All right. and he didn't like it was an auto. We put a manual in it and he stalls it in low range instead.
>> Oh, yeah.
>> Doesn't it? Here we go. Now you'll just walk it.
>> Low range. It'll just >> Oh my god. way better already.
>> It's amazing. It's as if when you're going up really steep sections, you're meant to use low range.
Who would have thought?
>> It's only that somewhere. There's the There we go.
Walked it. Two wheel drive. Now, as you can see by shiming the dip, it certainly hasn't turned it into a fully locked differential. However, after doing some testing, it's obvious that it's working well, and I'm certain it's doing better than it would have otherwise. So, there's the big 48 up and ready for Build Wars 2.0. And I reckon with the money we had on this time round, we've done an awesome job. So, we've just come in under our 5 grand budget. And in the same time, we've addressed all the problems that we had on the previous trip. So, we fixed our auto issue. We've now got a manual gearbox. We fixed well what was probably a not very good LSD with now an upgraded shimmed LSD. We fixed our bent arms. Uh and we've got some awesome upgraded feed locks, too.
So, I reckon this thing's going to kill it on the trip now.
>> I'm so keen to actually hit the tracks and try it out now.
>> Exactly. Right. So, this is the last week of build episodes for Build Wars because next week we are hitting the tracks with these cars. So, be sure to check out all the other channels, like all the other boys videos, get subscribed to the other channels, get around Build Wars because we want to do this stuff again. We are absolutely loving it and we are keen to get this thing out on the tracks. We'll see you guys out there.
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