When cutting hair, understanding your natural hair texture is essential—fine hair with a smaller diameter requires gentler handling and cannot be roughed up, while curly hair has natural variations in curl patterns across different areas of the head. Adding layers to create shape and volume will inevitably make ends thinner, so stylists should communicate this trade-off and help clients balance their desire for length with their need for shape. The goal is to work with your hair's natural characteristics rather than against them, using techniques like strategic layering to enhance your hair's unique texture while maintaining its health.
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Deep Dive
Helping Achieve Her HAIR GOALSAdded:
What are we doing?
>> I haven't had a haircut in a really long time.
>> It's been like 3 years. I want to keep length, >> but I want a haircut. Like I want like Can I show you? Okay. Like I want like it defined in the front. Not like a full bang, but like when I put my hair up, I want like cutie cutie bits >> pieces here. And you want them to be prominent.
>> Yes. I want it to be obvious, right?
Yeah, >> I don't like volume up here and then just straight like a jellyfish kind of >> I do know that like I need some trim to like be healthy, but I trust you like >> So, here's the thing about their hair and your hair.
>> I don't think the fullness is going to be as much as that.
>> If we take layers like it'll be sort of it'll be thinner on the ends. I'm going to try my best to keep it as full as possible. I do think it will get thinner than it is right now on the ends if we add shape.
>> What do you suggest? I want volume. I find I like will shake my hair and I like that.
>> I think we should do it. I don't think it's going to be like so thin at the end. I'd like to tell people what they'll experience just so that you know and it's not a surprise later.
>> Okay. I trust you.
>> Okay, cool. So, oh my god, I love this.
>> That's so pretty. Okay, let's do here.
>> Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
>> Okay. Let's do here. And we'll make them a little bit like thicker, but not too thick. And then we can blend them into the rest. And then when you put your hair up, you can pull those pieces out.
Let's do like here.
>> I think that'll be really really nice.
And then for the length, let's like take that much off. How do you feel about that?
>> Yeah, that's fine. I was even thinking like if we had to do more, but that's perfect.
>> Let's start with this. If you feel like it's getting too straggly on the ends, we can always go higher, but let's just like let's start with that. I think that's I think that's good.
>> Okay, let's do Okay, cool. And do you always part your hair here?
>> Yes. It's slightly off center because even like the slightest bit over it, the white doesn't show, >> right?
I like it to show. I haven't straightened my hair in like a year. I don't plan to maybe even ever straighten it again. I want the curls to heal. Like what you see underneath is what it used to be when I was a lot younger. And I know like texture changes and I'm a lot older now, but I want to like feel the curls more if I can. So, I think this will be I don't know. Hopefully.
>> What does that mean?
>> I find that this is styled like I don't mind like brush styling my hair. I just find the top layer is maybe a little looser than underneath, but I figure that's normal.
>> I think that's just like a normal curl pattern thing. Everyone has different textures and different curl patterns on their head.
>> I just don't I worry like It will be straight and then curly.
>> There's no way.
>> There's no way your hair is going to be straight.
>> Your hair is just not straight.
>> It might be like less curly, but like we're we're taking the we're taking the layers up. It's going to be more about the shape >> product like in your hair.
>> Do I have a bald spot?
>> I You don't have a bald spot.
>> It's like a calic. It's like here thin.
I don't know.
>> You don't have a bald spot, but your hair Let me show you in the back. Do you see how it sort of like becomes kind of there's like kind of like a hole here >> where there's there's some hairs here and then this piece on top sits on top to create that length and if I lift it then we're left with like not a lot of perimeter.
>> Mhm. What is that? Like why did I do something wrong?
>> I don't think you did anything wrong.
How do you like wear your hair? Usually you can always separate these like these curls, right?
Normally it sits in like some form of mess up here >> or I'll do like a slick back, but I'm trying to get away from that hoping it will like, you know, I don't want to like straighten it out too much. But >> but I'm willing to forego putting it up if it means healing like or making it healthier. But >> sometimes when you have like split ends for a long time, >> they break off. How are you sleeping on the hair?
>> Like here.
>> Okay. just like pulled back in like a a scrunchie or whatever.
>> When you put your hair up, >> are you like pulling this? Like what kind of hair tie do you use?
>> Big scrunchies. But sometimes I'll use like the crappy, you know, band ones.
>> So, here's the thing about your hair.
>> It's fragile. Yeah.
>> Is it Is it Is it back here a lot? Okay.
You're ripping your your >> Oh, no. Can I get it back?
>> Yes, absolutely. I just So, here's the thing. If I add layers back there, it might create a hole >> in the perimeter. This hair is sitting on top of hair that's broken down here.
>> So that's that's actually saving the perimeter of your hair. So if I lift this, then it reveals the shortness. We have long pieces in the front and then short pieces in the back.
>> So if you wanted to get the height and forego some length, we can do that.
>> If you want to keep the length, we could focus just on the front. It's really up to you and what you want to do, but also if we cut, we can kind of start over and sort of like what you've been saying heal. Like I would I would probably put like leave-in conditioner in those bits like maybe every day. I would baby that hair. Your hair is is kind of like it's like a it's a finer texture. It's finer diameter >> and has always been fine but a lot of it, >> right? Which means that you can't be rough with it.
>> Okay. Sorry. I'm not I'm not getting you in trouble. It's all good. I've seen this a lot.
>> Do whatever you need to do to make it healthy.
>> If you're keeping doing this, >> we can always get length back while you have shape.
>> Okay. Let's do that. Cuz I think that adding shaping to the hair will like really change your experience with your hair.
>> Yes, please.
>> And you'll be able to like, you know, play with it more even if you don't have all of this. But we can grow this back.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah. Let's do it.
>> Okay. Great. Let's do it.
>> Okay.
Oh, yeah. Oh, it's so good. Yeah, I like it.
>> Looks great. Mhm.
>> Oh, yeah. Oh, it looks so curly. That's great. I love it.
>> Thank you. I love it.
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