Kittery, Maine: The Most Overlooked Coastal Town

Added: 2026-05-17

[00:00:09]I have been to many places along the main coast, Portland, Kenny Bunkport, Bar Harbor. Today, however, I am visiting the town of Kitery.

[00:00:22]This is the first town in Maine that you come to across the New Hampshire state line. Many people just cruise on by on the way to more well-known destinations.

[00:00:34]I have stopped for a couple of days to see more fully what this place is like.

[00:00:39]Come along as I check out the town and see if it's worth the time. Let's go.

[00:00:49]Long before Maine even became a state, there was Kery. This place was settled in 1623 and officially incorporated in 1647.

[00:00:59]A trip to this town reveals 400 years of history, the river, which separates Maine from New Hampshire, and natural areas that are befitting of one of the country's most beautiful states. The throngs of summertime crowds assemble farther up the coast. Kery, however, will not be overrun by tourists. Those who choose this spot get an authentic experience without having to battle for space. That might be its greatest appeal.

[00:01:29]This is the Piscetqua River. It forms the southern boundary of the state at this spot and serves as one of the defining features of Kery. The river is short, flowing for just over 12 mi before spilling into the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Maine. There is a tidal influence on the water, but it possesses one of the swiftest currents of any navigable river in the United States.

[00:01:52]Moving at nearly 5 m an hour, this might not be the best place to go for a swim.

[00:01:58]This is called Portsouth Harbor for Kar's neighbor across the water. The Portsouth Naval Shipyard, though, is here on the main side.

[00:02:09]There are three bridges spanning the river and connecting Kery to Portsouth.

[00:02:14]This is Memorial Bridge honoring soldiers and sailors from World War I.

[00:02:19]The original was built in 1923 and replaced by this structure in 2013. It is a primary link for pedestrians and bicycles to move across the Piscataqua.

[00:02:33]At roughly the midpoint of the bridge, the roadway crosses Badger's Island.

[00:02:38]This is residential with a few businesses now, but it was once a big site for ship building. The island is about a third of a mile long and covers around 10 acres. It is in Maine and within Kery town limits.

[00:02:54]At the base of the bridge on the mainland is John Paul Jones Memorial Park. Jones is considered to be the father of the American Navy. He commanded the USS Ranger, a ship that was built on Badger's Island in 1777.

[00:03:08]The park is a gorgeous space that covers close to 2 acres. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

[00:03:18]The most prominent feature inside the park is this monument. It is the main soldiers and sailors memorial created 100 years ago. This commemorates those who served in World War I. featuring a woman holding a child flanked by images of combatants. It was originally called the horrors of war, but now goes by the name of the casualties of war.

[00:03:43]Kery does not have the traditional main street lined with businesses forming the core of downtown. Instead, this area is known as the Kery foreside. It is a pleasant walkable neighborhood with shops, restaurants, and many historic houses and other buildings. There is riverfront access here.

[00:04:05]This seems to be the morning place for locals to gather in Kery Foresight. It is Lil's Cafe, a fashionable coffee house situated in what was once a bank.

[00:04:15]In the back, the old vault remains filled with vinyl records for sale. I stopped in for a drink and chose a special latte and a seat outside. The drink is a blueberry pie latte. It's pretty good, but not quite as good as sitting here on a table on the sidewalk watching ketery come to life in the morning. Spending a half hour in a setting such as this with a warm drink on a chilly morning is ideal. I didn't try one, but I'm told that Lils is famous for its crawlers.

[00:04:48]Just down the street is this attractive structure. It is the Rice Public Library. The building is Romanesque Revival Architecture and was completed in 1889.

[00:04:59]On the National Register of Historic Places, this was renovated just a few years ago. It was closed on the day that I stopped by to see it. Outside there was a story walk situated in a garden.

[00:05:13]In the vicinity is the KDY Art Association building. The association has existed for decades, but it has been in this foresight location only since 2022. When I visited, the main exhibit was a student art show. What is on display changes several times each year and typically includes work from association members.

[00:05:37]Just outside of the foresight area, I found this attraction. This is known as the Big Easy Chair. It is a 12-ft tall, quirky piece of roadside art. There's no deep message or symbolism here. The artist says just have a seat. It was added to the town in 2004.

[00:05:58]Inspiration Park is just steps away from the big chair. Likewise, the message here is straightforward. Just create, achieve, be better. The space includes motivational quotes, representations of butterflies, and flowers.

[00:06:15]Kery has some attractive natural elements downtown. I passed by Legion Pond several times and was always drawn to it. It's not in any guide books or a destination that travelers have to find.

[00:06:28]Taking a moment or two to stand on its banks, though, will improve your day.

[00:06:35]Rogers Park Conservation Area is even larger and more enjoyable. This has 27 acres to explore with trails through the trees. My favorite spots were along Spruce Creek where there were views of the water and marshland. The small nature preserve has been in existence since 1958.

[00:06:57]Much more nature can be discovered farther away from the center of Kery.

[00:07:01]When I first made it to the town, I went to check out Seappoint Beach and Crescent Beach. This is the main oceanfront. These areas have dark sand gently sloping into the water with rocks peppered along the shoreline. In between the two short stretches of beach is a grassy headland extending out into the Atlantic. It's not the cliffs that are found farther north in the state, but an indication that you will find a rugged coastline in this part of the country.

[00:07:31]The beaches are located on Cuts Island.

[00:07:34]So is the braveboats harbor division of the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge. I spent about an hour walking the Cuts Island Trail here. It passes through forest and provides many views of Chanty Creek and salt marshes. This is the southern end of the wildlife refuge. In all, it protects more than 9,000 acres of land. This is one of 11 units that are scattered along 50 mi of the southern main coast. The idea with the refuge is to preserve salt marshes and other environments used by migratory birds and water foul. This was established in 1966 and ultimately the goal is to protect as much as 14,000 acres.

[00:08:19]Fort Foster is positioned on neighboring Garish Island. There are a couple of gun batteries here that were in service during the first half of the 20th century. The mission was to protect the naval shipyard. This attraction also contains remnants of other military facilities that includes this wood and steel pier which was used to service ships used by the armed services. It's now exclusively for recreational purposes extending out for more than 500 ft. During the season between Memorial Day and Labor Day, non-residents pay a $25 day pass fee.

[00:08:58]On the mainland Peninsula, there is another bit of military history. This is the Fort McClary State Historic Site. It was occupied from the Revolutionary War through the War of 1812 and into the Civil War. It was never, however, the scene of any significant fighting. There has been some sort of fortification here since 1689. Through the ensuing decades, this installation was built up to provide protection for the entrance to Portsmith Harbor. After the Civil War though, it was determined that this sort of fort was no longer relevant. There were plans at one point to extend granite walls and fully enclose the fort. Those notions were never realized.

[00:09:39]There is a small entrance fee here, but outside of the season, it is on a voluntary basis.

[00:09:48]These places to the east of the center of town are in an area known as Kery Point. There are some great old buildings. Amongst them is the first congregational church of Kitery. It's the oldest continuously operating church in Maine. The structure was completed in 1730, but the congregation came together much earlier than that. It's pretty astounding that this still hosts services today.

[00:10:16]Across the street is the old burying ground. This 1acre plot dates to 1650.

[00:10:22]It holds the graves of many early settlers, ministers, ship captains, and prominent families. There is also a marker for a crew lost in a shipwreck in the area in 1876.

[00:10:34]The setting in between the water and the church along with slate tombstones from as far back as the 17th century make this a very special place.

[00:10:45]Since Kitery is a town that is often bypassed, there is quite a bit of development along the highways leading north. One stop is the Kitery Trading Post. This is an extremely popular store, which offers outside gear and lots of clothing. The roots for this place go back to 1938 when sales took place in an old gas station and shack.

[00:11:07]Now, there is more than 100,000 square ft of room for retail and over 200,000 products offered.

[00:11:14]Kery has become known for its shopping and it's not just the trading post. In this area, there are several outlet malls, and those have become magnets for people from throughout the region and beyond. The trading post has been family-owned since the beginning. I get the sense that for many, stopping here is tradition.

[00:11:36]Another spot that I wandered into for a few minutes was Just Us Chickens Gallery. All of the items here are made by around 30 members of the cooperative which runs the joint. Art is on display and for sale in all sorts of mediums.

[00:11:50]Some is functional, some is just for looks.

[00:11:56]There are culinary traditions here for certain. You don't think of Maine without lobster and lobster rolls coming to mind. I decided to satisfy my appetite at Dave's Maine Cafe. It's actually a pretty simple sandwich. There is a ton of lobster mixed with a little mayonnaise and served on a buttered roll. There is no shortage of places to find one. You can get one here at Dave's or you can go to countless other locations that are eager to sell you one of the state's most famous items. There is a reason that lobster and lobster rolls are so popular. They make one of the best sandwiches you will ever try.

[00:12:33]At least in my opinion. The roll, chips, tea, and a tip came to just over $30.

[00:12:42]On another day, I stopped into Bob's Clam Hut. Fried clams are not as well known as lobster rolls, but seemingly every bit as popular. I placed my order and then picked up my basket at the window.

[00:12:54]>> This is a clam basket, the Lilian. Okay.

[00:12:56]>> All right.

[00:12:57]>> That's beautiful food.

[00:12:59]>> The meal included fried clams, fries, kleslaw, and a soda. I have never been a huge fan of clams, but these have made me a believer. They are tender, juicy, even a little sweet. Outstanding. My basket, including tip, was more than $50. Are the prices for lobster rolls and fried clam baskets too high? I will let you decide that for yourself.

[00:13:26]I adored the look and feel of Beach Baking Company. Word is that everything here is made from scratch and produced with quality ingredients. No doubt it is popular as even mid-afternoon there were many customers grabbing items to go or eating on site. The staff was incredibly welcoming and I ended up getting a turkey and avocado sandwich for takeaway. I had zero complaints.

[00:13:52]I did not get anything at Yummy's Candy and Nuts, but I was tempted. This small space was packed with just about every type of candy that has ever been made.

[00:14:02]Saltwater Taffy owns the placement right inside the entrance. There are indications that Yummies has more than 10,000 lbs of inventory ready for people to take home.

[00:14:15]Always in search of locally brewed beer, I walked into Tributary Brewing Company one afternoon. Opened by a longtime brewer a little over 10 years ago, this place offers beer on tap and in bottles.

[00:14:28]I'm actually getting two beers while I'm here. M the Lesser is an imperial stout at 11%. I'm getting that to go. It's actually quite famous. While I'm here though, I'm having a smoked boach at 7.2%.

[00:14:41]It is quite tasty. I was pleased with both of the brews that I tried and the bottle of Mthaleser lived up to its reputation.

[00:14:53]Kery is fairly small as the population is nearing 12,000 people. There is enough history, coastal beauty, and local charm to warrant more than just a glance from those driving by on the main turnpike. In my estimation, you will be happy if you decide to spend a day or two here. That still leaves plenty of time for Portland or Acadia.

[00:15:17]I made a critical mistake. I did my main exploration of downtown on a Monday.

[00:15:22]Many of the places that I wanted to stop inside were closed. I'm not quite sure, therefore, that I saw kit at its best.

[00:15:33]Next time out, I will be crossing this bridge into New Hampshire. I will be taking a look at the primary city on the state sea coast, Portsmith. Come back to Old Alone and Far from Home to see what I find.