This video demonstrates the complete process of machining 5-inch gauge steam locomotive tender wheels on a Myford lathe, including creating a dummy face plate and mandrel, addressing chatter (vibration) during profile cutting by using a rear tool post for better support, and achieving precise taper cuts on both the tire (2°) and flange (20°) using the compound slide. The key technique for eliminating chatter involves stopping the machine and turning the chuck by hand while feeding the tool to polish out vibration marks, particularly at the root radius area.
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5" Gauge Steam Locomotive Tender Wheels (Part 2)Hinzugefügt:
Hello and welcome back to the shop.
Hopefully by now you've seen the video which shows you the machining the the initial machining of the wheels for the 5-in gauge locomotive tender which is over there on the bench.
Well, today we're going to continue with that and we're going to work on the dummy face plate and the mandrel.
And I've got the raw material here for the dummy face plate. You've seen this before in a in a [clears throat] video that we did well some time ago now I think.
We're going to work this today. We're going to machine it and we're going to make the mandrel.
I'll just show you what I'm going to do.
First thing I did actually yesterday after finishing the the outside of the wheels and boring them out was clean the lathe off and I gave the bed a good soaking of oil. That's how I get the the dirt and the dust out. What I find is if you give the bed plenty of oil what happens is that the the dirt and the grit and everything becomes suspension and they float and you can actually see the the crap.
Makes a big difference.
Nice and free now.
Well, anyway, we'll get this set up and we've got three-jaw chuck still in don't forget and we've got the reverse jaws in so we might as well use them. We'll just hold this. We'll face it off. We'll turn a little bit of the outside diameter.
We'll face it off. We'll drill it and ream it probably 7/16 because our bore through the wheels is half an inch so we can just we can press a a stub shaft mandrel in there.
And we can just put a nut on the back.
Make sure it can't come undone.
The press fit will be good enough for it to be honest.
But anyway, let's get on with it.
All right.
There you go.
There you go.
Just a feel for the cast iron dust.
Anyway, just got to have tools set up and let's get cracking.
All right, I've got all me center drill and drill and reamer and everything ready.
We'll face this off turn the outside.
Put a bit of cutting oil on there just to help.
There you go, it's cutting all right, that is.
Those chips will be hot.
You don't want to grab hold of them.
I'm just going to take a facing pass just to make sure it's cleaned up properly.
>> All right, we've got it faced off. Now, we're going to just turn the outside diameter.
All right, just change the direction of the automatic feed over.
I don't want to get all over the jaws.
All right.
What things are going to do?
Yeah, it's fine.
I'll put a chamfer on there now.
I'll do.
Now, I'm going to center drill.
>> [bell] >> Okay.
>> Right.
So, 7/16 reamer.
You know.
I've got a countersink in.
There you go. That's all that's needed.
All right.
That dummy face plate is complete now.
The next time it goes back in a chuck, it'll be the independent four-jaw chuck.
So, we don't need to machine the back or anything like that.
It'll go in, we'll grip on this rough part here with the four jaws, and we can maneuver that anywhere we want. We can do what we want with it. So, we can clock it up and we'll get it nice.
Now, we're going to work on the mandrel.
That's going to fit in there.
Okay, I've measured the bores in the wheels.
It's about one over half an inch.
So, for the mandrel for the location, you know, that's going to be half inch will be okay for that.
Right, let's get some material and we'll we'll get on with it. In fact, we could even use a piece of half inch silver steel.
You know, that would be quite satisfactory.
All right, we've got a piece of silver steel in the four jaw.
Let's just rotate.
Can you see that? I'm just trying to shade the ceiling light out.
You know, you've got maybe half a thou.
It's pretty good that is. It's good enough for what it is.
It's starting to go that is.
That'll be a nice fit that one.
Very nice fit.
Press that on.
Yeah.
I'm just relieve it where the thread's going to be.
And we'll look at the chamfer on there. The chamfer on there. And then we'll screw cut it.
All right, we've got the compound swung over so it's 30°.
Just don't forget UNC or unified threads are 60° threads.
I've set the tool so it's perpendicular with the work.
And we've got it on 14 threads cuz 7/16 is 14 TPI.
And that's got to be right way over there.
All right.
Here's our dummy face plate and there's our mandrel.
That goes in there.
That just needs to be pressed in.
I've got a tool specially made just for pressing things like that in.
I will show you.
All right, my special tool.
It's my copper hide mallet.
Couple of good thumps from this and that thing will be home. Let me show you.
No mess about.
And one good thump and that was all that's needed.
There you are.
There you go.
All right, that will hold.
Okay.
Put it in the lathe.
Get the four-jaw chuck on the lathe.
Put it in the chuck and we'll clock it up on that face and on the diameter and we'll try a wheel on it.
Well, mind what we've got to do first, we've got Oh, we've got no method of holding the wheel yet.
So, what we've got to do is we've got to put the wheel on and where the spokes are, we're going to put a couple of bolts to hold it up against that and hold it tight.
Yeah, that's what we've got to do first.
All right, I've drilled the holes and I've put bolts through.
I've clamped the wheel in place on the dummy face plate and mandrel.
So, we need to put this into the I'll put this in the four-jaw chuck and we'll clock everything up and then put the wheel back in.
Well, that looks pretty good.
That allows us to turn all this here.
Finish that off.
All right.
Let's go to the lathe.
And you can see the two dial dial test indicators. This one's clocking the face.
I use this one to clock the mandrel.
If I try and get the light out, you might be able to see.
It's within about half a thou.
I don't know if you can see that or not.
Anyway, let's just check the mandrel.
That's all right. That one. Can we get it better than that, do you think?
Yeah, that one.
It's a little bit better than that. Be okay, that one.
All right. Let's put our first wheel in and let's have a look.
All right, you can see I've got the first wheel in.
Put it in. I've got our special round-nosed tool here.
That was loaned to me by one of the lads from 82045 group, John Padget.
So, what I've done, it's there's a 2° angle on the tire.
So, what I've done, I've locked off the saddle.
And all we're going to do is we're going to operate the compound, and I've set the distance the compound has to travel.
And all we're going to do is feed in until it's the right diameter.
And then when we get to the the diameter that we want, what we'll do, we'll zero this the cross slide out.
And then we'll all the other wheels will go to exactly the same spot. Okay?
I'll bring you in a bit closer you can see better.
And hopefully you can see that.
That's the stop point. That's as far as the tool will go. I don't know if you can Can you see that? It might be too bright for the for the camera.
Sometimes it's not good to shine it on. That's as far as it goes.
So that's at 359.
If I just nice 345 1 359 is there.
Okay?
All right.
So it didn't touch.
>> Just keep whittling away.
This is just a quick check on size.
Try and get it roughly in the right sort of position.
You know, with teeth it's not uh it's not that easy.
Thing is when we Once we've set the diameter on the first one, we just stay like that with it all of them.
We don't change.
Let me see what this says.
It's 30. It's got about another 30,000 to go on diameter.
All right, this will probably be about the last pass, I reckon.
Let's see what it's like.
>> No.
That's a little bit of chatter in the corner.
See if we can get that out.
In fact, we've got to come in this way as well to cut the angle on the on the flange itself, and we'll try to blend it out then.
That's not looking bad now. It's pretty good.
I'm going to zero that. So, I'll zero the cross slide where the where that point is.
And that's what we're going to work to on all of them.
So, I'll turn all these outside diameters here first.
And then we'll look at doing finishing the flange off.
I'm back in the shop again today, and we're going to continue with turning the profile of the wheels. And I just wanted to mention something about the vibration, you know, the chatter that we had in the root of the profile on the wheel.
When you look at the setup on the lathe here, it's not the ideal for heavy cuts.
When you look at the actual tool, that's what, 4 mm diameter.
So, if you look at the actual size of cut, what's that, four times the diameter, or pi d.
Pi times diameter, what's that, three, four, it's 12.
Probably about 13. You've probably got about what, 3 3 mm cut.
That sort of size, and it's taking it's quite a big cut, really.
And it is for turning in the conventional way with the with the tool in the compound slide here. I mean, the ideal thing would have been to put it on the rear and turn it with a rear tool post.
And we could have what we could have done is we could have set the taper turning attachment up on the back and used that. Then we could use the rear tool post.
Um because what would happen is under heavy load, instead of under heavy load at the moment with the conventional, you've got your work coming around like that.
It strikes down and it pushes your tool down and it tries to roll over your tool.
That's what's happening and the tool's digging in. And then all of a sudden it sort of give it and it's jumping back to where it was.
Going around a bit more, jumping back.
And that's what the chatter is in your work.
On the rear, if you're turning with the rear tool post, what happens is if you've got your your cutting tools there like that, you've got your work going around like that.
So, it's digs in. What happens is it just bend the tool bends away from the work and doesn't dig in. It can't dig in.
So, the rear would have been the ideal place, but we haven't got that um We could have We could have set that up, yes, but it wouldn't have allowed us to turn the or it won't allow us to turn the flange that's the taper on the flange.
We'd still need the compound to do that.
Uh there are different uh tool holders that we could use. This one these quick change ones, they what they have They're great for swapping tools over quickly.
Always getting them back in the same sort of position.
But, the only thing is they stick out over the end of the compound, so you've got more leverage and bending to accommodate for.
If we had a different tool post, the older style, you know, the one with the which I was which was square and it got slots cut on four sides and you got the grub screws and you put your tools in tight them down. It will be totally supported by the compound underneath.
So, it would be better.
And that's something I'm going to look for I'll look into in in the future.
I'm going to do something about that. It would give us better support for our tool.
But anyway, we've got what we've got for the time being.
And we're going to make the most of what we've got and we're going to still try and do a good job even though these things aren't brilliant.
So, let's get on with these wheels.
We've done one. We've got one. The tape on the outside of the tire is now done.
We're going to take this one out and I'll get on with the other ones and I'll bring them all to the same condition as this one here. I'll take it out and I'll give you a look look at it and you can see the see the chatter in the root as well.
Let me get it out for you.
All right, I've got the wheel here for you.
And you can see we've actually turned this here.
And we've got a little root radius there. It's a 2-mm radius.
It's pretty good.
All right, I'm just doing the second wheel now and I'm just doing a little bit of experimentation with the uh root radius and looking at that chatter.
And what I've been doing cuz it's it's 359,000, 359 that we've got to move from the edge of the tire to the center of the root radius, 359.
So, when I'm getting to about 358, what I did when I got to about 358, I stopped. I just stopped the machine and I put it in neutral and I turned the chuck by hand, just by hand, pulling it round.
And just fed it in that last thousandth.
And it's starting to clean the roots out, so you get rid of the chatter, so we don't see it.
I'll just show you what I've been doing.
Now, I don't know if you can see very clear there, but what I've been doing is I put me me spanner on there, and I've got this set at 359. You you can't see on the Can you see there now?
It's 359.
There it abouts.
So, all I'm doing, I was just I fed it in that last thousands of an inch, and I just let it polish the chatter out.
And it's gone the chatter's gone.
Some slight little traces just there.
We're not down on diameter yet. We've got a little bit to go, but that's When I get to that that radius, that's what I'm going to do now in future.
I've got about another 40,000ths to take off on diameter.
But I'll When I get to doing the root radius again, I'll show you.
All right, this is the last cut on that second one.
Okay.
I'll just go around the back over here.
So, I can feed in.
>> Stop it there. Disengage the clutch.
We're still about a thousand short now.
So, I'll just show you.
159350 Now, it's polished it out.
It's not bad at all now.
What I'm going to do, I'm going to feed it back out again.
Now, So, I'll feed it back out. That doesn't look bad at all.
It's a little bit sort of complex, you know, where you've got extra operations you've got to do, but if you get rid of a problem, then it's worth doing.
There we are.
It's a That's not bad at all really.
Yeah, I like that.
That's pretty good.
So, I'm going to do that with all of them now, then.
When I've got them all done, I'll let you have a look.
All right, we've finished the the six wheels.
Of the outer diameter, anyway.
With the 2° taper on it.
You can probably see, I don't know if you can see very well here.
I've got a photograph of the I've got five on the bench.
You'll see in the photograph, the one at the bottom's got more chatter on that.
That was the first one that we did.
But, all these are pretty good. And I've got the last one still in the lathe. No point taking it out, cuz what we're going to do now is we're going to start setting up for turning the taper on the flange, on the inside of the flange.
I think it's 20°.
Yeah, it is.
So, let me get set up for for that with the compound.
And I'll show you what we've got.
All right, here we are with our setup for cutting the taper on the flange here.
We've got the compound swung round now, so it's 20°.
I've got the tool holder here.
I've actually got this just sitting down on top of the the compound for support.
It's only fractionally off-center. It's not a problem.
And I've zeroed the the DR of actual zero now.
Anyway, we've got a And we're ready to go now, anyway. We're going to have to put the cut on with this.
The hand wheel for the traverse on the saddle.
Until we get that sitting in the right spot.
Just going to go to 40.
50.
There we go.
And it's blended in nice there. Let me just get my magnifying glass.
Look.
I'm just going to brush clean that crap away.
And let me just polish around by hand.
>> [snorts] [snorts] >> So, where everything is now, we'll zero.
And so, we know where we're going to.
And we'll make every one of them the same.
All right, all the taper turning on the tire and the flange is done on all six wheels now.
I've left the sixth one in the chuck because we're going to put some chamfers on and we're going to do a little radius.
So, we're going to put a chamfer on there.
I don't know if you can see this there.
We're going to put a chamfer and a radius, blend it in on the edge of the flange.
And then that's all the work on these done then.
>> [clears throat] >> So, let's get on with that.
Let's just measure it.
See what it looks like.
That's one corner.
Oh, yeah, that'll do.
That'll be nice.
This was the first one that we profiled.
You can still see a little bit of chatter there. I've blended most of it now, but still a little bit of chatter mark there.
No problem.
All right, we're going to put a bit of a chamfer on here.
And we're going to get the file to work.
Okay, that'll do.
File will work now.
Okay.
It's pretty good.
Let's check that.
Can we find this?
Yeah, for an old steam loco, I think that'll do.
It'll be good enough. All right.
I'll do all the others the same, and then I'll let you have a look at them when they're finished.
All right, we've finished doing all the wheels now.
And you can see I've got a different coat on from the last clip. And the reason being is that this is a couple of days after that last clip you just seen.
I did record at the end of the video.
Well, I thought I did. And when I was checking through the video footage a couple of nights ago, I thought, "Where's Where's that room frame has gone for the end?"
I obviously haven't pressed the little button. So, we're recording it now, a couple of days later. But anyway, we did finish the wheels, and we did a really good job of them. I was quite pleased with that.
So, I just want to thank John Padgett, one of our group at the Severn Valley Railway 82045 Steam Locomotive Trust for the loan of his round nose tool, about 4 mm diameter cutter on it.
That was really good of him.
I've got a photograph of the tool with a number of part number on it. So, if anyone was interested in in that tool.
But I've got all six of these wheels done now, and I'm really pleased with that.
If we had some axles, we could actually mount them in the axle boxes.
But we've done the wheels, and I We've made some progress. That's a lot of progress, that is.
They've been sitting on the back of that now for what?
Probably about a year now.
We've actually done some something with them. The next job on the locomotive will probably be the axles for these for these wheels.
But that won't be just yet.
Because we've got something else to look at. We need to get the small hydraulic bench press finished.
The cylinders turned up and so is the little hydraulic pump and I haven't even opened the hydraulic pump yet. I did look at the cylinder. It's on the bench now.
But the the little hand pump is still in the box over there.
I haven't opened it up.
But anyway, that will be for the next video. We need to get that finished so we can press the wheels on. So it's important to get that done. But anyway, that's it for now.
We've done the wheels. We've done a good job on them. I'm quite pleased with them.
Anyway, thanks for watching and I'll see you next time.
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