Electric vehicle conversions require integrating multiple critical systems including battery management (with contactors for isolation and pre-charge, BMS for monitoring, and cooling systems), high-voltage electrical connections, and motor control systems. Initial testing involves verifying coolant circulation, checking for air locks, monitoring system parameters like voltage (358V), state of charge (60%), and temperatures through the EV display, and troubleshooting issues such as erratic idle or failure to engage gear before successful operation.
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Electric TVR - Will it work? Ep33Añadido:
Last week, we fitted a front and rear battery box to this 1980s TVR Tasmin.
And this week, we're going to see if it works. But before we do any of that, we need to do a couple of little bits.
We're going to fill the fluid, connect the battery boxes, and secure the battery boxes ready for potentially a first drive. So, here is the front battery box we fitted last week. And then we got the rear battery box here.
This is the one with the 12 modules in.
So, stacked two deep if you like. And then you've got the battery um cooling plates. One, two, three, and at the bottom there. And then we've got a load of contacttors. In fact, Russ, what do all of these contacttors mean?
>> Yeah. The two big ones are the ones that isolate the the batteries from the outside world.
>> Yep.
>> When you put your ignition on, they close.
>> So, that front one there with the brown top, you can see that's the pre-charge.
Yeah, that's >> what the two little contactctors >> the heater. Low power and high power.
>> That's right. Cuz we've got a high voltage heater there, which takes plenty of power. What about these um breakers here?
>> Yeah, these are fuses.
>> Okay.
>> This one is going to the DC and charger negative. Uh that's a charger and that's the DCDC power supply. And these two are for the heater.
>> And what's next to it?
>> This is a little set of relays and fuses. the um the T2C will control closing these contacttors when we're using the ignition, but for charging.
>> Uh the T2C has got nothing to do with charging, so it won't control the contacttors. So, I have a a couple of little timers here and a couple of relays here. And something that I didn't show last time, uh cuz I edited it out was the rear battery box. So, the reason why we cut into the body more is so we could move the battery box back. Uh because the battery box was completely changed from what it was originally if you watch if you watching the previous videos videos or if you go back. So we've only actually gone into the boot >> 4 in.
>> Yeah. 4 in. And I mean there's this shelf anyway at the bottom here and then it goes really really deep down here. I mean there's there's actually it goes really deep down there. So easily be able to get like shopping that sort of stuff in there which is good. And then we've got battery disconnect on the rear battery and also box and also the one down there to make it safe when we need to. But the both of them are alive. And yeah, there's the other BMS just there where we did have to cut the fins off to get it to fit. But still a little bit of cooling. And then yeah, the TOC is >> the the motor of the wiper motor >> just behind Yeah, there it is. So there's the TOC controller. What we going to start with first then, Russ?
>> We can try putting antifreeze in. Bolt up the uh >> battery box to the chassis >> and then connect everything and then turn the key. See if it works. Let's hope there's no leaks.
>> We'll soon know. So, how much are we putting in?
>> We just keep pouring it until it stops.
That that's concentrated so we can thin it down a bit.
>> Okay.
Is there no manual for how much to put in?
So, plug the pumps in. There you go.
That's got that.
>> I'm interested to know what kind of noises that the uh the wedge is going to make when we turn it on.
>> They are.
>> Oh. Oh, contacttors.
>> Yeah. I just turned the ignition on.
>> Oh, the ignition's on.
>> Yeah. And it's sucked it away.
>> Oh, we better put some more in then.
>> I get some water now cuz I think it's taken a lot.
>> It's at minimum now.
>> Quite impressed. I don't see any leaks yet.
>> Let me uh >> No, no scary running around. No, >> no, nothing. Dry as a bone.
>> So, you're squashing the pipe to see if it makes a different noise.
>> It normally makes a different noise on the This one isn't.
>> Oh. Oh, we're off. It's coming back through there.
>> Oh, yeah. I can see it. Yeah. Oh, quick, get the water out. Quick, get the water out. Gone below the minimum again.
>> Air locks. Bane of my life. So, we're confident that the coolant is going around the system. We're just going to leave it on, help it get all the rest of the bubbles out. And while that's happening, we're going to attack the rear battery box. Still making the noise. So, what I thought I'd show people is while I've been away, Russ has been connecting all of the cables to the rear battery box, as you can see there. So, all the uh high voltage cables and then the gray ones for the canvas, etc. And also, you can see the earth there as well. Yep.
>> And we could probably see the front one as well if we go over here.
>> I haven't put the ground on that yet.
>> Um, >> yeah. Well, you can you see it? Uh, you can't really see up there. So, uh, we'll we'll move on over here again.
>> Yeah. The the the extra socket is the um is for the CP and PP coming from the plug, charge plug. Oh, >> okay. Yeah. Are these the coolant pipes?
>> Same with the car. Yeah. I clamped them around these vertical pipes.
>> Oh, nice. Nice.
>> This was a buggy to get to this one.
>> The body was too close.
>> No lack of space in the TVR conversion.
It's unheard of. So, we need to essentially uh sort out the bolts on the clamps that we did last time so it's all secure.
>> Be lots of video action of us with our hands up in the air. No. Spring washer and uh flat washer, spring washer, then nut.
>> Oh, hang on. I'm glad you said that after I only put one on. Not all all six.
>> There a couple that are night to get to.
I don't think they're going to be going anywhere in a hurry.
>> No, no, no.
>> Russ might want to do his uh jump up and down on it test. I know that's one of your favorites.
>> It's one of your favorites.
>> We can do that to check clearance. So, as well as the water pumps, the oil pump is also putting the oil around the Tesla small drive unit. And I need to get the paint brush out and go over some of the manky bits.
>> Not there. There's not many. It's just like >> this is good.
>> Yeah.
>> You know, when you look at the stage, >> I went around the whole thing. Uh even though it had already been done, I went around it again, but there's like a couple of little tiny bits like here that just need touching up. They're really good.
>> Well, you can see like where the This was where the damage was.
>> Oh, was it?
>> Oh, look at this.
>> It's just their [ __ ] [ __ ] Welded.
>> They ground the weld off.
>> [ __ ] >> That's what they've done. They ground the weld off.
>> [ __ ] rubbish.
>> They didn't grind the weld off.
>> Why have they ground the weld off? Yeah, that needs rewelding.
>> Yeah. Well, add that to the 40. Let's call it 41.
>> Yeah. I'm I'm definitely not welding that, but that could be welded up. Well, that can be another another time.
>> Another day. Good job you spotted that.
>> Yeah, the TVR has liquid going around it. The blood. Green blood. Do you think we can get the wheel spinning, Russ? Cuz the ignition's all on. You You plugged everything in. I'll tell you what we should do. Have a look at the EV.
>> Yeah, we'll show that.
>> EV controls. Show you what the display looks like. Other devices are available, but not for EV controls, unfortunately, cuz they only do Apple, annoyingly. And look at that. got all the 358 volts. I think we worked out earlier this uh the sock or state of charge of the battery is about 60%. So what is this all telling us?
>> They'll stop quivering in a minute or so when it starts.
>> We've got an erratic idle uh is what we got there. Max regen 12 volt. Yeah.
Inverter temperature.
>> Inverter heat sink temperature. That's quite warm, isn't it? 28°.
>> We've had the ignition on. Look for faults.
Yeah. Any faults? Showing current faults. May take a few seconds. No faults. No. Well, that's looking good.
No faults.
>> That's looking good. Might as well get in it, I suppose. I know that there's no seat, but it's never stopped me before.
>> So, we haven't got the gear shift in yet.
>> No.
>> But the gear shift's going there, and it's the nice solid one rather than the floppy bollocks that was there before.
So, the ignition's on.
>> Yeah.
>> Do we just press D or do we press the brake?
>> Brake.
>> So, press the brake. Oh, and there we go. So, can you see that? It says brake regen. I suppose all we need to do is press drive or reverse and then accelerate, right?
>> Yeah.
>> So, oh dear.
Oh dear. Let's try reverse.
Uh, it doesn't seem to want to go into gear. That's it then.
>> Yeah. We have to go through all the check the canvas, etc. So, it looks like there's going to have to be some troubleshooting um to get it into gear. Uh contacting EV controls as well. Um then again, there might be people shouting at the screen saying, "Oh, have we checked this? Have we checked that?" I I probably pressed something that I shouldn't have pressed.
That's what I reckon happened.
Unfortunately, it's it's not madeup drama. Cuz normally on a madeup drama, it'd be like, "Oh, look. We just switch this. Just plug this in here. Oh, we forgot to do that. Of course we did. But no, this is real. It's not working. But I'm sure we'll find a solution.
So, hit the bell. Don't forget to like and subscribe and see if we manage to fix it for next week.
>> Since Tim left, I've been able to have a look around. I'm just working on the BMS at the moment. Oddly, now I've configured the BMS. The drive unit goes into drive quite happily.
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