In turbocharged drag racing applications, achieving optimal boost levels requires proper synchronization between engine timing, camshaft profile, and torque converter selection; when RPM drops but boost fails to increase and timing continues to retard, this indicates insufficient exhaust energy, requiring higher RPM targets to achieve desired boost levels.
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Boosted Big Block Sounds INSANE…… I Thought This Engine Was DONE… Now We’re Chasing a New PB!Added:
I'm not crying right now.
I'm not I'm not crying at all.
What's up, guys? We are ready to go racing almost. The only thing I have not done is spooled this thing up. We just got the turbo on it. Let's spool it up, crank it up, get it warm, and see what kind of boost we can make. Everything should be fine.
We didn't change anything tuneup wise.
Everything is pretty good. It sounded pretty good yesterday. I am going to uh it looks like the rocker arms are oiling fine. Uh we're going to try to look down in the valve covers as is cranked up, warming up. Let's see what it does.
Appreciate it. Comment, like, and subscribe. We're going racing this weekend. Friday night, we're going to be taking Chris Moore's 66 Mustang to Rockingham private testing. And then Saturday, we'll have my car at Rockingham. We still got a few things to finish up. As long as this spool up goes good, we'll be there. We'll let you know in a second. So, one of the things you need to do anytime you move this crank trigger pickup anytime any anytime this is taken off, it takes just about 5 minutes to do it. It's very simple. Uh, now I know this stuff doesn't really move. You can change the gap a little bit, but mostly this stuff is set. But you always want to verify it, right? You always want to make sure that what you are commanding timing wise is actually what you're seeing on the harmonic balancer over here. So, the way I do it is pretty easy. One of the best things I've ever done is bought one of these little battery operated timing lights.
This is like from Amazon or something.
Uh, it just plugs onto the number one cylinder. I know that looks like number two, but it's not. It's number one.
Number one's over there. Uh, it's just where I've got it on the cord. You press that button and the red light comes on and it flashes. Now, it's super easy though. So on the Holly, uh, essentially you got your degree wheel down here. I got my marker down here so I can see it.
And you notice my timing marker is way out there on the actual pickup because it's not really set up for this. When I put this U bracket on for this fuel pump, I had to modify it. And so what I did is I marked basically 30° on my balancer and 30° is out here on on that as well. And I don't know if you can see it because of where is I don't know where it's at on there. Let's see. See if we get lucky. Uh, look, there's 180.
And basically what I did is I marked it on the actual the u the the magnet, the flying magnet, the 11 - one wheel. And then in the holly, all you do in the holly is when you come on here, you've got to go live in the holly.
And then once you get it cranked up, you'll get it cranked up and warmed up.
and you go up to this spot right here.
Uh, sync with ECU enable static timing check. Click that. And then when you get here with the car running, you put 30.
And then you hit set. And then when you check it out there, it should be 30°. If it is not 30° when you get out there, then you can go into the the actual screen. Now, this is how you do this one. uh engine uh ignition parameters, custom ignition type, configure. You have to be careful when you're in here.
Uh 12 minus one, this is the way it's set up. Um the 80 inductive delay, uh sometimes that's a little higher. The way you set that is based on how you're revving the engine. The natural tendency is you rev the engine higher, it retards timing. The higher this inductive delay is, the less it retards. Uh so you just have to be up there with timing light.
We're not going to do that today, but we're just going to check static. So, we'll rev it up to 2500 or 3,000. If it is off, that timing offset. So, if it reads uh 28°, we'll turn that to minus2.
If it reads 32° when we're trying to read 30, then we'll put that at minus 6.
And it's electronic. I mean, so it's fine. I mean, I could get down there.
You could get down there and play with the the setting where this slides the old school way. That's how you adjust the timing like when you have a four magnet like a MSD box. But that's not what we're doing. Uh we have computer we can control it. So that's all we're going to do.
Heat up here.
Heat up here.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat.
Heat up here.
Heat up here.
Heat. Heat.
Heat up here.
Heat up here.
Heat up here.
Heat up I'm not I'm not crying at all.
Wow. Uh, methanol in an enclosed garage is brutal. Oh my goodness. Uh, I'm going go grab the laptop real fast. We're going to pull the data log. Uh, looked like it made about 10 12 lbs of boost.
So, that should have been right where we're wanting to leave at. Let's go pull the data log. See what it looks like as soon as Yeah. As soon as the air is out a little bit in there.
All right, guys. Well, here is the spoolup test that we just done. This thing pulls up really, really fast. That combin It's a combination of parts and pieces. We got a good engine. We got a decent amount of compression. We got some timing in it to get it going. But most importantly, the things that made these things spool up the most important. They have to tie together is a properly sized cam shaft. Daniel Palams hooked it up. Got us a cam shaft fixed and it works and it's spec right.
And then coupled with the cam shaft, you get a good torque converter. So, uh, Circle D, Pete, Circle D nailed it again on the torque converter. Uh, this thing comes up even. I mean, it's a 264 diameter. Uh, and the stator, I can't remember the number, uh, that we just put in it, but we put a tighter one in that, but see, we we're banging it at 4,400 RPM. Boost goes up to 11.3, but then we drop it back down. Uh, the way we do ours is that helps get it get it up and going, but we're going to have to add a little bit of RPM to it cuz I was trying to target 11 lbs of boost. That's why the timing was out. So, what this means when you see this, when you see the RPM is down, but the boost is not there, and it's still pulling timing out. This this yellow line here, if it's pulling out that much timing, that means you don't have enough exhaust energy.
And so, we're pulling timing down. So that means we need more RPM and it was supposed to be on 4,50.
And of course, Holly always bounces a little bit back and forth. And so it's a little low. So we're going to add like 50 RPM to it. And then that way it will make 11 lbs of boost up there. And we might end up having to having to leave at 4200 RPM or so, but we want to leave at 11 to 12 pounds of boost and and that way we can get this thing thing rolling and try to go another PB. We're trying to go personal best this coming weekend.
>> Okay, so just got under here and checked my shock pressures and they were really good. Uh Ion, he hooked me up on rebuilding these things. These are QA1 mod series. Uh car just didn't separate much last time we were at track. Uh so we were just looking at make sure they had good air. Um they were I mean they were I put a couple pumps in it. I do not have nitrogen. I have a bicycle fork pump. So, if you guys just go on Amazon and type it in and you will see a whole bunch of different ones and it's high pressure and it will go up to like 300 use. Set these somewhere between 70 and 100. Uh, they were on about 80 and I put them at 100. I did not ask John what he actually set them at, but you should be checking the shock pressures uh a lot.
And so, I'm also going to re uh I'm going to loosen up the the low speed uh rebound just a little bit. And we're going to ride change the ride height just a little bit in the back. We're going to raise it up. Uh spun it up. We got these real soft Landrum springs in the back and uh we're going to just get it up a little bit higher. Um next thing we're going to do, look at under here.
There is a ton of rubber. So, we've been racing for one year. Let's uh scrape all the rubber off of it and see see actually how much rubber uh there is. There's probably 10 or 15 pounds worth of rubber back here.
Let's see if we can scrape it off. Uh, how much do you think it's going to weigh? Uh, get in the comments. Let me know.
>> All right, guys. Well, we got most of it cleaned off. It's hard to get it all, but we got a lot of it. Both sides. I used a torch and I used a heat gun.
Torch worked much better. Just don't get it too hot. It will catch on fire. So, what do you think? How much you think that weighs? That is a full Diet Coke container. Let's get a scale. Okay, so on the scale, 4.2 lb. That is four pounds of rubber. We just put the car on the diet. All right, so back on the ground. Next thing, uh, we're going to change the front springs. We're going to put the 75lb front springs back on instead of the hundreds. I see they're all the way down. When we're doing like no prep, this is what we want. But they won't go down any further. I want the front of the car to go down a little bit. It's just not quite level. Uh, so back of the car, I did raise about a/4 in. And then the front we need to lower about a half center of gravity be further down. Uh so anytime you can get that crankshaft down further closer to the ground on radials it makes it so it don't want to wheelie as much. So now let's do that real quick. All right guys, so we have made some progress.
Played with the back, played with the front. It took me a lot longer than what I thought to change these. I had forgot when I put these on. I had to make some modifications. And the biggest thing, these Thomas Racing, Thomas Racing Supply Service, Thomas Racing Service, TRS, I'll get it right. Um, these are Viking style uh struts, but he makes them long travel and does a lot to them.
But you can change ride height down here, and I had forgot about that. So, when I first put the 75 lb springs on, I did not adjust that on the bottom, and it bottomed out up here. So, we were trying to get it pushed down so that we could lower the front end. I just stepped on it and that was basically bottomed out on that that stop. Uh, you cannot do that. So, basically, I had to take it all back apart. Uh, take the strut off of the spindle and then uh we had to basically it just spins up. So, I moved it up like eight turns on each side. And you see the limiter we got?
So, that's in the tightest hole. So, it's got like a inch and a half, inch and 3/4 travel there. So, that should work out pretty good. So, everything is already set. So, now uh we're ready to go. Got all this stuff tightened up. I did uh play with bump steer just a little bit as well since we lowered the car. Um anytime the car is lower or raised up in the front, you need to check your bump steer cuz sometimes it is off. So, we got all this tightened up. Good to go. So, now I think we're ready to go racing, guys. It is now, y'all are going to see this like in like 12 hours. It is now Friday morning early. We're going to the track. We're taking Chris Morris to the track today when you see this. So, the 66 Mustang.
We're going to be at Rockingham testing.
And then Saturday, we'll have this one out. It's going to be a good time.
Appreciate it, guys. Comment, like, and subscribe. Later.
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