We Made This 2024 KTM Super Duke R Even More Insane!

[00:00:00]KTM Superjuke 1290. We're going to do full ECU mapping, air filter, and all the good stuff. And it is going to be exceptionally loud. It's got a full Austin racing system with the tiniest can you've ever seen in your life. What we're going to do is basically just correct the fueling everywhere. It's going to smooth out the way it delivers that power and then give it a little bit more everywhere as well. But this is going to be naughty. Let's go.

[00:00:27]Just spin it. Pow. Whoa, nearly died. God, my life flashed before my eyes. We're going to get everything strapped down, get it all checked over.

[00:00:36]So, just the normal health check stuff.

[00:00:38]We're going to do chain, tire, oil, all that stuff. Is actually going to have an oil change as well in a minute. But, we're going to do first run first because it's first. Get a base run done on it as it is. We'll have to blow some bits and bobs off this anyway. Then it'll go out. We'll do the oil change and then we'll load it back on, do the air filter, and all that good stuff. The mid-range area is where these are really hampered for emissions. And unless you go for the Acro map, which then throws you needs a magic box, which we sell to be able to reinstate the indicators, you you have a thing that comes up on the dash saying it's not road legal, blah blah blah blah, which is a bit of a faf.

[00:01:08]So, we're not going to this hasn't got that map on there. Then we'll cap pair valve, get RPM signal, all that good stuff. And then we're ready to go. Cool.

[00:01:16]So, let's do it.

[00:01:39]Yeah. So I made much better.

[00:02:39]Heat up here.

[00:02:44]Heat. Heat.

[00:03:23]We're prepped now. So, oil's good.

[00:03:25]Chain's good. Tire was pretty flat. So, we pumped that right up. We've also got a jumper plug on the RPM. So, this is just a jumper to allow me to get RPM signal. These run a dual a twin spark head. You have to run off this one, not this one because this outer one doesn't actually spark all the time. So, you would lose RPM. So, obviously, it's got to be on that. We've also kicked the exhaust out. It's because I can get exhaust extraction because otherwise it's so close to that wheel. We just don't want to run the risk of marking the wheel or damaging or not being able to extract gas. So, we've moved that out. Also, everything was quite loose.

[00:03:58]So, I don't know what's gone on there, but I've rettightened some of the bits that were on. The clamp has to be over the bit that's cut. If it's clamping the actual pipe, it won't actually contract it. So, I've moved that. That's clamped.

[00:04:12]And I'll be honest, the system is pretty nice. I quite like that Austin racing system. it. One, it looks really tidy.

[00:04:19]And two, with having that big sub silencer, it takes some of the noise out of it, so it's not as droney, but it's still really loud. That's all cool. All my data is done. We've just warmed it up and gone through the gears. Happy, happy, happy. It's doing what it's supposed to be doing. Now, the purpose of that is get everything up to temperature, but also to make sure everything's doing what it's supposed to be doing. The gearbox is fine. The engine feels happy. I'm reading mixtures and RPM signals, etc., are all correct before we go into doing the big boy power runs because if there is anything untoward like the chains making odd noises or or the gear box is slipping I want to know that low speed so that's why we do that the other stuff as well is the RP the pair val systems capped so we've got clamps that's what these clamps are those clamps are capping the fresh air injection system because all that does is take air from the airbox and then bleed that straight into the exhaust port after combustion so while I'm sniffer probing the exhaust exhaust if they were open, it would be diluting down those gases and it would get a false reading. So, we can't have that.

[00:05:21]That's naughty. We've also got our probes in the exhaust. Now, what we will be doing in a minute is once we flash this, we turn off the O2 sensors. I can then go direct to each cylinder. But right now, we can't. We have to use a combination sniffer, which is just going in the back of the exhaust only because I can't take these off. If I take these off and put sensors straight in the front for both the front and rear cylinder, it's automatically going to bring up an FI light. It's automatically going to change the way the fueling is.

[00:05:50]And it doesn't really make a great deal of difference. It's just giving me a combination of both what the front cylinder is doing and the back cylinder's doing. So, we'll change that in a minute. We're also going to be a little bit careful as well because of the way this can is with its sexy sexy painted tip. I don't want my copper pipe touching it because it might take the paint off and that will be no good. So, we're making sure that we've got a little bit of clearance around that while we're doing the runs as well. And now, now all the prep's done, we can get a full set of runs done. This is going to be our baseline position. So, this is what the power is making as it stands right now. Also, how the fueling is across the board. And then it'll come off, blow it all apart. So, let's do that now.

[00:06:46]Heat.

[00:06:55]Heat.

[00:07:10]Base runs all done. We are 165 166 brake and as you can see the dotted lines are our target. The red is just gunning it.

[00:07:20]So full power. Blue is more realistically transitioning. You can see right now when you nail it, it's still dead lean at the bottom, but then it's not terrible from about seven grand onwards. But when you're realistically roing riding roading, it's it's pretty much crap all the way to six and a half.

[00:07:36]So we don't want this to be in the 14.

[00:07:38]Stoometric is 14 on that on like normal unled. That's okay, but that's perfect combustion. That's not what we're aiming for. We want a lot richer mixture than that to generate a lot less heat and it's smoother. So that means we're more aiming for around 131, especially on these because they generate so much heat anyway. We want to really take that engine temp down. So really pulling that down is going to make a massive difference to it. So right now pretty lean. We'll get it off. We've got to do an oil change on it. We'll get it blown apart and do the air filter, get the ECU off, read the EC off, which takes forever. And once that's done, then we'll put a base map on there and then we'll start again. Let's do that.

[00:08:17]>> Right. These aren't very complicated to do apart from you have two drains. These have also got gauze filters that go quite long quite far in. We'll take these out, drain the engine and the bottle. This is a dry sump. So, you have a header tank with oil in that then pumped into the engine and then also pumped back into the oil tank. So, we've got to drain the tank which is from this and the filter in there. And we've also got to drain the engine itself from there. This is your oil filter as well.

[00:08:42]So, we take this out. Now, the easiest thing to do with these once you've got this cap off, which has got an O-ring on it, use a pair of C um C cliff, put them in. I can grab the filter and then pull the filter out. And there's a spring on there as well. Don't lose it. Let's do all of that. One thing to note as well is these generally are bloody tight, so you just got to go easy and they're not very deep, so it's dead that easy to round them. So, nice pushing it on while you're cracking it can save a bit of heartache. Let's do it. I have pre-crafted these, but I honestly they were they were tight, like insanely tight. You didn't want to see that face that I was making while I'm draining it.

[00:09:21]The gauze filters, these are identical.

[00:09:23]So, that one and that one both look exactly the same. So, all we'll do is we'll clean this all off. Double check the O-rings. Make sure that they're good. And then we'll blast these off as well. Make sure that they're nice and clean before we put them back in. Light work.

[00:09:35]This one won't come out with quite so much ferocity.

[00:09:40]Someone's pranking that in the past and there's little tiny bits of shrapnel on there as well. Not ideal.

[00:09:48]These can be a little bit stuck on as well.

[00:09:52]So, this is threaded. To get this cover off, if you were struggling at all, you can actually thread into them and pull them off. I don't think Well, they used to be able to. I don't know if you can anymore. Yeah, there's still a bit of thread there. Yeah. Pop that off. You can grab the actual filter and then just wiggle it out.

[00:10:11]sorted. And again, there's a bit of there is a little bit of debris there.

[00:10:16]I've dropped that.

[00:10:18]>> I was too distracted. All right, we'll let this drain for a couple of seconds.

[00:10:22]Clean it all. Replace everything. Stick it all back together again. Put some oil in.

[00:10:29]I am the cleaning man. I come from down the way. I come the cleaner man.

[00:10:36]Oh, that's grim. That is crud in there. So, before we put a fresh shiny filter in there, let's just make sure that the housing's nice and clean.

[00:10:50]Yeah, you can see there's a bit of like pit in or something on the the back housing, but it's it's clean. It is clean. There's there's no sediment there. It must be just where the rubber's resting against. It's just tarnished it a touch. Okay, we are ready to build it back up. New high flow filter going in. Absolutely fine. It's fine. Don't stress. This doesn't have to be the original one. This is absolutely perfect. Get this in. We'll grease all the O-rings. Stick it all back together again. Stick some oil in it.

[00:11:19]Bit of rubber grease on it.

[00:11:26]Slide that bad boy in there. He knows.

[00:11:31]Slide these in.

[00:11:39]In you go, fella.

[00:11:45]>> So, with these, these are just 20 Nmters and then these are six. Don't overtighten them for the love of God.

[00:11:55]Perfect.

[00:11:56]Cuz otherwise some fool like me, he's going to try and fix it and I can't be asked. And six newton meters is absolutely bugger all. Bear in mind these are super duper skinny. Click click click click with these as well.

[00:12:09]When you're pushing it on, make sure it completely seats before you even try and tighten these cuz if you get it kicked, you will damage them. Sorted. All right, that's all good. We'll give this a clean now and then we're going to put 3 L of oil in it. That'll basically get to the tank. Then we'll start it. Let it make sure the engine the oil warning light goes out. Turn it off. Leave it a minute. Then put another half liter in it. Then start it. Start it again. Then we'll double check the oil level and it should hopefully be there or thereabouts and we'll just top it up from there.

[00:12:34]It's a process. What are you putting in there? You ask this bad boy right here.

[00:12:38]So it's semi it's synthetic motoral 7,100. Don't mind me doggo. You you do you.

[00:12:48]>> He is [ __ ] right away.

[00:12:50]>> He is such a prick.

[00:12:52]>> What was in this?

[00:12:54]>> He would wear you remember like when girls in old school they had the frilly bits fold down. Edward D for the collabory ones. She's [ __ ] right towards.

[00:13:06]So, we're just going to go down to there a few moments later. Right. When you're filling them with this, if you just turn it up like that, it's going to glug glug glug. It's because it's got to be able to get air in there. So, this is where engineering comes in. You just lift it like that and then you you you'll allow the air to escape and then it just pours out consistently rather than gouging.

[00:13:27]There's a reason for everything. All right, we're about half a liter away.

[00:13:30]We've got 3 lers of oil in this motorcycle right now. That's why you do three liters. If you try and pour more than that, you're going to just pour pour oil everywhere. And it's not cheap, so let's not waste it.

[00:13:42]>> Cap on. Starter up. Make it go bum bum.

[00:13:45]Give it a minute. Let everything settle cuz obviously the engine's completely dry now. So, we're going to pump this around the engine. It's also going to fill the oil filter as well. Put another half liter in. I've lost the cap though.

[00:13:56]Put stuff on top of it.

[00:14:09]>> Where the [ __ ] is that?

[00:14:12]>> Why have you put it over there? Did I do it?

[00:14:15]>> Why the [ __ ] did I put it all the way over there?

[00:14:19]I have had no sleep again. the O-ring on the filler neck on the actual filler cap. Just grease that up as well, just so it seals it a bit better. Let's drop it down. Start her up.

[00:14:49]So, put another half liter in it now.

[00:14:51]That should bring it back up here again.

[00:14:52]While we're here, just double check for any leaks. Then we're going to run it again for another 30 seconds. All that's nice and dry. We're fine. Got no leaks.

[00:14:59]So, with this, you want to be between that mark and this mark. So, kind of between this working area. If you're above that, the problem is if it gets too hot, then there's not enough expansion room for it, and you can actually pressurize it a little bit. If it's too low, obviously, there's not enough oil. If you go for something like 300V is green, looks like coolant. It's great. Everyone gets >> Well, is it got coolant in the engine?

[00:15:17]>> It's not. It's just the color of the oil. He's I feel like he's waiting for something. What's up, mate?

[00:15:24]>> I can't choke you because my hands are a little bit we final start up.

[00:15:41]I'm going to go outside and breathe some fresh air. Next thing is a race shift gear shift support. So, what this does is it's going to support this is quite exposed from here. So, it actually mounts all the way back there against the engine and then it comes all this way before it gets to the tie rod. So, to stop any movement in this at all, what we do is we sandwich the end of this with this bearing and then bolt it onto where the clutch sleeve is. And it'll go like that. And that's just going to add that extra little bit of support right at the end here. And it just stops any wiggle and waggle in.

[00:16:17]This helps with gear shifts, etc., etc. And also, if nothing else, it looks damn good. So, we're going to fit that now.

[00:16:24]Lock tight everything on as as we go.

[00:16:26]Done.

[00:16:31]>> I love the confidence, man.

[00:16:33]>> You'll be fine. I think the reason why that was such a bugger to go on is cuz the outer diameter of the shaft is just the girth is just a little bit thicker than the original bolt. So it kind of rests against the side cuz that's warm now with the ready to race and the 12in gillies and race carbon and Austin race.

[00:16:54]Yeah, there is a bit there like Oh.

[00:17:11]Oh, exciting. Off we go.

[00:17:14]>> I've got about 15 ECUs with me >> and a bike and a bike. Where are we off?

[00:17:20]Uh JNS Oakmeir cuz uh I need a backpack and they've got a bike night on. So, we're going to set up a stall and sell our wares and we're even taking the dog with us nonetheless. So, Let's see what chaos we can conjure up.

[00:17:40]>> Zero fashion.

[00:17:41]>> I mean, let's be fair. We're never actually going very fast. It is a slow man.

[00:17:47]What's his name?

[00:17:59]>> Hola.

[00:18:02]It's quiet. No one's talking.

[00:18:06]>> Everyone's gone away.

[00:18:08]>> Oh, well, we tried.

[00:18:10]Verdict.

[00:18:11]>> I'm knackered.

[00:18:14]Clearly didn't talk to enough people cuz I've still got a voice. And normally when we go to these things, I can't talk. But if you talk to us, thank you.

[00:18:21]We really loved it. Everyone who said that you've seen us on TikTok, thanks guys. Appreciate that, too. Keep up the likes and the follows and the subscribes, take that box. No, it was good. It was good.

[00:18:33]But I think it wasn't as busy as it's been in a couple of years or couple of other times. I think the it was chucking down this morning. sort of thing. I put a few people off, but it was nice while we were there. Just a bit windy.

[00:18:45]>> All in all, good. Max, good.

[00:18:48]>> It was all right.

[00:18:49]>> Buds.

[00:18:50]>> Buds. Good. Have a good time.

[00:18:52]>> You got lots of attention.

[00:18:55]>> Right. Back home. Back to the KTM.

[00:18:59]>> Yeah. Back to the KTM.

[00:19:01]Nice little interude. We're back on the dyno now for the oil change and the race talks gear shift support. What we're going to do is just reset everything.

[00:19:08]Exhaust extractions got to go back on. I don't need to put the probes in this time, but I need to get the exhaust extraction right. I've got to take the pod off, seat off, all this bikini panel, fairing, the front panels, the whole thing. I've got to take the tank off, which I'll show you next, and then get the air filter done. In the meantime, the ECU is going to come off and be red and then which takes forever.

[00:19:25]Once that's red, I'll put a base map on there. So, we're going to just get into doing all of the prep now to get into doing the actual mapping side of it. So, let's do that.

[00:19:44]For the record, this is supposed to pop over that, but it was so damn tight cuz it's carbon and doesn't flex at all. I had to release this a little bit first.

[00:19:52]What a pain in the butt.

[00:20:16]Heat. Hey, Heat.

[00:20:36]Do I feel extra strip we're going to do now is we're going to unplug the O2 sensors.

[00:21:08]So, we've got well, there's three. So, we've got one here, one there, and then one on the mid side neck on the other side, which is for the uh cat sensor.

[00:21:17]So, we'll get all of those two sensors out now as well.

[00:22:14]All built back up. Tanks on, air filters in. We've cleaned the airbox as well and the duct because they were minging. We also clean the little gauze that sits right at the front behind the headlights to make sure that is not being blocked by loads of pigeons. That's all clean.

[00:22:27]Intake's all clean. Air filter's in.

[00:22:29]Tank's all back on. And then we've also been able to because the ECU is now flashed as well. We're able to disconnect the O2 sensors. So, both the front cylinder, rear cylinder, and then the combined are all off. This one was a bit of a pain cuz the stupid carbon fiber silly stupid cover, which is very stupid, wouldn't come off. So, I had to mess around from the inside to be able to get that one off. That's fine. If you ever take the O2 sensors off these, the only bit that's really really fiddly and quite annoying is there is a cable tie mount when it's coming around. You won't be able to see. It's right there. It's here, but on the other side, which this coolant hose runs right in front of. So, cutting that pipe, not cutting the pipe.

[00:23:03]Don't cut the pipe. That'd be bad.

[00:23:04]Taking that cable tie off is really tricky. And then you got to feed it round. But apart from that, easy. Back one, easy. Other one, easy. So, they're all done. And then that allows us then to be able to fit our takeoffs. This is going to allow us to sniff both the front and the rear tape uh rear cylinders to for AFR so we can see what the fuelings are doing. We then we put a boss in and then have an adapter to be able to run our copper pipe that will then draw down to our sensors at the back which will then give us AFR readings which is really really critical for us to be able to do this. The clamps are still on these cap the pair valve system that bleeds air into the exhaust.

[00:23:36]So again we're getting perfect fueling.

[00:23:38]RPM signal still on. We will have a load of engine management lights now because we've powered the EC up on the bench over there. So, we will clear those.

[00:23:45]We'll turn it all on. We'll clear all the errors and then first start up after the after the flash. And hopefully it won't be too far away. And then we'll go through a full set of runs. Log in all of the throttle positions and go through an intake air pressure map at the same time for the front and for the rear. And then we can build a map. And then just repeat, repeat, repeat until we get our target. This is the biggest chunk of stuff that you got to do. So once you've done all the prep, once you've got the first flash done, once you've got all of this, I was going to say crap, but all of this stuff done, then we can get into the mapping. And the mapping process is actually fairly quick. Even though it's two separate cylinder mapping, it isn't quite so bad once you get to this point.

[00:24:20]But yeah, bit of a lengthy process to get here. But let's get on with it.

[00:24:30]Heat. Heat.

[00:24:40]Heat.

[00:24:59]Heat.

[00:25:16]Heat. Heat.

[00:25:38]Heat. Heat.

[00:26:11]Heat. Heat.

[00:26:19]Heat.

[00:26:40]Heat.

[00:26:50]Full set of runs done. So, we've already done a set. We made some tweaks and then we did it again. The base mat, which is one that we've already built before on another similar bike, was actually fairly close anyway. We just trimmed it a little bit. The differences could be a lot down to the fact that we've never ran one with a full Austin racing system with that collector silencer box thing.

[00:27:10]So, a lot of the difference is probably down to that. The gains overall is pretty good. The fueling is a million times better than what it was as well.

[00:27:17]So, that's going to feel a lot lot nicer. And after two sets of adjustments, this is what we're looking like. So, we've started at 164 near 165 and we finished at 172. Nice. That's exactly where we expect it to be. I'm happy with that. It's nice and smooth and nice and powerful. And then if you look at roll on, which is more realistic, you can see that we are on the line all the way. And that's both front and rear. So, cylinder one, uh, AFR1 is actually the rear. AFR2 is the front because that's how they orientate the cylinders in the mapping. So, just to keep it easy for me so I don't have to forget and then have to redo my mapping and annoy myself because that happens a lot. Um, I actually set them so that the the actual fuel tables and my AFR table is the same. But you can see that both cylinders la. That is sexy right there. It's good, isn't it? I know. I'm proud of myself, too. The way this works is we literally run this through every single one of these values. So, if I show you the actual fuel map, you can see we've ran this bike through every one of these columns.

[00:28:12]So, we've gone from 2% all the way through to 100%. The reason is for that is you can see that there's a slight variations in this fueling, even at like 12%. Which there's kind of a there's always a bit of a step change when you go from the lower than 10% throttle to above 10% throttle. And that's because it runs off two different tables. It runs off this table, which is the throttle table. So, this is throttle against engine speed. And I'll show you this table which is the intake air pressure table. The intake air pressure table does a lot of the low down stuff.

[00:28:40]It's really important for small throttle openings because that pressure differential at low speed is quite profound. Has quite a big effect on it.

[00:28:47]So you have to map both. But there's that little transition area and that's really important to do both sides. So we will map across on the intake air pressure and across on the TPS to get a seamless transition of fueling. But that that's that and that's why you get a little bit of a step change there. But it's also really important to go across all of those variables because it's certain areas the the engine works slightly differently. So it's not just about doing a 10% a 5% a 20% a 50% on 100% run because at 45 or 35% throttle there could be a big change in the engine characteristics. So it's really important to go through every single one of these. It's it's about making sure that it's absolutely perfect. So when it transitions through all these throttle positions, it is perfecto. And it also means that when we do do the roll on runs like this when it transitions through all of these columns, the fueling stays pretty much bang on where our target is. And that's what's going to make the massive difference to the way the bike feels. Also to the overall engine health as well. There's no big spikes, no big dips, no big nothing.

[00:29:49]Just means it's nice and crisp all the time. Okay. Okay. So we're all done.

[00:29:55]We've got to just essentially stick it all back together again, clear a load of faults because the bike's like, "What the is going on?" One only one wheel spinning. That's also why the quick shifter doesn't work. So, if you see the on the video that I'm I'm man to use clutch or I'm rolling off because the quick shifter doesn't work because it only sees one wheel speed moving. Now we'll take everything off, put bungs in the in where the original O2 sensors were, stick all the fairings back on, do a fancy video at the end where it looks pretty and then polish it until nice.

[00:30:37]Heat.

[00:30:52]Heat.

[00:31:12]That's a special all done. All finished. All back together again. The exhaust is now in its rightful position, not sticking out to the side. What a beast of a bike. On to the next one. Let's go.

[00:31:27]If you like any of our videos or anything that we get up to, you want to see more of him, me, these, and the other guys, don't forget to like, subscribe, and we'll see you on the next one. Good boy.