Jasion Patrol Battery Upgrade (170% Range)

Added: 2026-05-19

[00:00:00]Hello everyone. In this video, I'm going to do a range test with my JCN Patrol ebike. Then build a battery with twice the capacity of the stock battery and put it in the bike and do another range test to see how much extra range I can get. So, right away, it's time to get a baseline of the stock bike. I've came to a gravel road, so I don't have to wait on traffic or go up and down any hills.

[00:00:21]It's pretty windy today, but the wind is blowing perpendicular to the road, so hopefully it doesn't affect the test very much. During the test, I set the bike to mode four out of five, so it's limited to 30 miles an hour. This is kind of like my cruise control for the test since I'll just hold it wide open and go this speed. The bike went 30 mph for about half the test. Then it started slowly going slower and slower until I eventually called it when it was going less than 10 mph. Now, here's the part where I don't tell you how far it went until the end of the video. So, you're forced to watch the whole thing and give me a lot more watch time. Just kidding.

[00:00:54]It went 20 and a half miles. You might be surprised by this because the bike was advertised to have 50 miles of range. However, I'm not very surprised by this because I know the range they advertise is the theoretical best possible range that you could get on a bike like this. I decided to ask them what their testing criteria was and they said they calculated it based on a 155lb rider going 15 to 20 mph on a perfectly flat asphalt surface with no wind. So, I'm not surprised that me being 185 lbs going 30 mph on gravel on a windy day would get a lot less range. This is just something to think about when shopping for Emotos. When you see that range value, just keep in mind you probably won't make it that far. With that being said, it's time to start building the higher capacity battery. I originally didn't plan on putting this battery pack into this bike. I was going for more of a multi-purpose battery pack with this hard case and multiple different voltage outputs so I could do things like charge my phone with 5 volts or power 12volt devices or whatever else, but I decided to use it real quick to make this video.

[00:01:59]I started off with bolting a razor blade to a piece of metal like this and hammering down on these dividers to cut them off from the sides. After that, I used a Dremel to trim the edges down flat. With the battery case ready to go, I determined which arrangement would fit best inside it. I decided on 9 parallel 20 series with 21700 cells. I'm going to be using a 40 amp ant smart BMS, some pre-cut nickel, and some 5 amp hour BAC cells. These cells are not very powerful. With 180 of them all packaged together, I can only run about 8 amps continuous per cell, but I'm going for capacity here, not max power, so I don't really care. I decided to put a thick spacer between the two halves of the pack so that the cells are closer to the outside of the pack. This should help them not overheat as quick. Inside the spacers, I put the four temperature sensors because this will be the hottest part of the pack. Now, it's time for some nickel. I'm not using copper because, like I said earlier, this is only about 8 continuous per cell. I do need some copper on the ends though because there the current is more concentrated. Here's what it looks like after folding it up and adding some tape. If I prefolded this copper before I spot welded it on, it would be a lot more flat at this point. It wouldn't be sticking up, but I think it'll be fine.

[00:03:18]Before I attach this BMS, I want to get the temperature sensor wires in the correct position. After that, it's time to solder on the main positive wire. I'm going to solder a couple different wires on there because I need them to go to different things inside the battery pack when I eventually do make this a multi-purpose battery. If you do this, make sure you have a good soldering iron with a wide tip and at least 100 watts.

[00:03:40]Your little thin tip 80 W soldering iron will not do this. With the addition of some hot glue and some plastic, the BMS can now go on the top. I went ahead and soldered a bunch of wires onto the BMS so it was ready to go. Go ahead and pretend this red wire is a black wire. I didn't have any black wires of that size. With all the higher current wires attached, it's time to focus on the lower current wires. Starting with the temperature sensors. With those attached, it's time for the bounce wires. I went ahead and labeled them all to make it less likely that I'll make a mistake. I really like this design where you fold the battery in half because it puts the bounce wires all right on one side. So, they're super easy to do. At this point, I would normally think about shrink wrapping this battery pack, but since it's going in this waterproof case, I'm not going to do that. Instead, I'm going to use some of this fiber tape that I picked up. I may have went a bit overkill on the taping, but it should be super secure, so I guess it's not really overkill. At this point, I went ahead and soldered an XT90 and XT60 connector onto the battery pack. I also put two plastic sheets on the sides to make it fit more snugly in the case, but it's not going in the case yet. It's going on the patrol. Man, I really managed to scratch this thing up. It must have been rubbing on something when it was riding around in the truck. Anyways, it's time to pop this panel off and see what the controller looks like. Here's the controller. It looks like the motor has a second set of plugs, so this might be a second set of Hall effect sensors or even an encoder. The controller looks basically like what I expected. Once I remove the controller and the stock battery connection, this bike is a perfect blank canvas for me to install a new controller. The stock controller isn't super big, so I don't have a ton of room to work with. I could probably squeeze a 72300 size controller in there if I really wanted to, but I've used this controller too many times. It's time to switch it up. I want a controller that's programmable while being smaller and more powerful than the stock controller. So, I'm going to go with a Far Driver Mini12. This controller can do 72 volts and 70 amps, which is pretty crazy for a controller this small. And this controller isn't even the most powerful version. There's an 80 amp version that's available right now. Comparing these two Far Driver controllers is pretty crazy because this green one is actually the 55 amp version. So that means this little black controller that's less than half the size of it has an extra kilowatt of power. I would definitely use this Mini12 controller in more builds.

[00:06:04]However, it doesn't have the brake switch wire, so I can't do the brake activated region, which is a big downside for me. Anyways, it's time to mount it in the bike. I'm going to put it on this back panel so I can heat sink it to the panel. So, I'm going to drill four holes and bolt it up. For the wiring, I decided to just do the bare minimum since I plan on converting this bike back to stock when I'm done with this video. So, I just tap the Hall effect sensors into the cable without actually cutting the cable. After that, we got the throttle, the ignition, and the main power wires that are just going to bolt right on the controller with some copper. Then, the wires will go up and plug into the battery, which I just strapped in real quick. Then, I'll have the ignition switch, so it's all ready to go. I plugged everything into the controller and now it's time to run the autolearn to get this controller set up with this motor. However, I almost made a big mistake. If I had forgotten to take the chain off the sprocket when I did the autolearn, then when the autolearn spun the motor backward, it would have spun the pedals and absolutely shredded all my wires. That could have been so bad. I guess I'll show you guys how I power up a controller without a pre-spark resistor.

[00:07:07]I like to get some alligator clips and connect them to a charger that's not plugged in. When I want to power it up, I just plug in the charger and this will slowly bring the voltage up without a big spark. After that, you can go ahead and plug in the battery. Once the batter is plugged in, I ran the autolearn and it seems like it's working great.

[00:07:28]Once I tidied up the wires, I put some thermally conductive tape on the controller, then bolted it to the back panel, and then bolted on the front panel, and this thing was ready to rip.

[00:08:04]It's not a crazy amount faster, but it's definitely noticeable. The BMS app says 5 12 kW, so everything's working correctly.

[00:08:16]Now, it's time for the second range test to see how much of an improvement this battery really is. Luckily for me, the conditions on the day I did this range test were the exact same as the day I did the first range test. During the test, I realized that the bike was going 30 mph for a lot longer than the stock setup. It went 30 mph for 80% of the test instead of slowing down halfway through. This is just another reason why having a higher voltage bike is a lot better than having a lower voltage bike.

[00:08:43]Now, for the moment you've all been waiting for. How far did it go? It went 35 m, which is kind of disappointing to me since I was expecting to go 40 since the battery capacity is doubled.

[00:08:53]However, this does make sense because I was riding at a faster speed for most of the ride during the second range test.

[00:08:59]For ebikes like this, what mainly determines your range besides your battery capacity is the speed that you're riding at. If I was just creeping along at 20 m an hour, I'm sure I could extend that range a ton. And inversely, if I was going max speed, I would use up all my range super fast. Anyways, it's time to convert this bike back to stock.

[00:09:18]If you want to buy one of these stock bikes, I'll have the link in the pin comment and the description. Anyways, that's it for this video. Thanks for watching.