Plant propagation involves taking cuttings from a mother plant to create new plants, with different plants requiring specific techniques based on their anatomy; for example, snake plants propagate by taking leaf cuttings from the middle of the plant, allowing them to callus for 1-2 days before placing in water, with roots ready for soil when approximately 2.5 inches long. Successful propagation requires proper soil preparation using well-draining mixtures (such as 50% potting soil, 25% fir bark, and 25% perlite), appropriate containers with drainage holes, and patience during the rooting process.
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Take Your Home from Gray to GREEN | HGTV Home
Added:Well, hello darling. Christopher here aka plant queen and I am the plant parent to over 200 green girls in my little Brooklyn, New York apartment. And you may have seen, you know, a little tour of my home. One of the ways that I enjoy filling my space with green girls is not just from buying plants, but actually propagation. So, darling, we're going to get into a little activity. And so, basically, propagation is when you take a mother plant, take a cutting or a snipping, and create a whole new other plant. And so, today on the little botanical stage, we have Miss Snake plant. I really enjoy this queen for a bunch of different reasons. They are wonderful air purifiers according to NASA and they are just so resilient and easy to care for. So propagation very simple, very easy. The first thing that you want to make sure that you do is some research on how to propagate that plant, right? And the reason is because different plants require different strategies and techniques in terms of propagation, right? because of the anatomy of the plant. And so the snake plant is all leaves. All right. And all you need handy dandy shears. All right.
And what you would basically do is just take a snipping of a particular leaf. So I would never cut right at the top. I would do somewhere midle of the plant so that you're giving that leaf enough body mass in order to continue to suck up that delicious nutritious sunshine.
Right? So, you just want to make sure that she has enough body. So, I would do midle and you would let that calcify for a day or two before you place that leaf in water. And so I've had this snake plant leaf sitting in water for about a month now. And you know, one of the beautiful things about snake plants is that they are slow growers, right? And there's something beautiful about that slow new growth, right? It incites patience. When you are propagating a plant leaf or a plant vine, you want to make sure that the water stays fresh.
And so I typically try to change the water every 2 weeks. And you want to make sure that the water is not ice cold or really hot. You want tepid room temperature water. As you can see, there's a little bit of algae buildup at the bottom. If I was not putting this queen in some soil, I would definitely be changing the water. A question that I often get is, "How do you know when the plant leaf or the plant vine, whatever you're propagating, is ready for soil?"
What I encourage folks to do, be patient and let those roots mature. And so these roots are about 2 and 1/2 in long, which is a good time for these roots to touch that soil. Now, we're going to get into some soil components, darling, because it's very important that you're creating a nutritious foundational layer for that green girl to spread her roots. Honey, the first thing that you're going to need is a planter. And so this pot is a terracotta pot. And I really enjoy terracotta pots because they're inexpensive and I'm a queen on a budget.
All right, terracotta pots are also wonderful because they are made of a porous material which allows for the soil to breathe. It allows for the moisture to escape the the pot, the soil. And as a classic overwatering plant parent, this is a way to ensure that I'm not overwatering my plant because the soil is breathing. Now, soil. Soil is the foundation that our green girls enjoy sinking their roots into. And potting mix is a beautiful thing. And so, while the standard potting mixes already have beautiful, wonderful, nutritious components already in the packages that you may purchase at your local plant shops or nurseries, I like to add a little bit more just to spark it up with a little pizzazz. Um, and so I actually make my own soil mixture recipes. So, the first thing that we have is fur bark. And I really really enjoy fur bark because it has this wonderful aroma divine that comes from the wood after you water a particular plant. It allows for the soil to create a a porous foundation that allows the water to go straight through the pot. You do not want the water sitting at the top of the pot. The next component is perlite. And it's these little white rocks that are basically pressurized volcanic rocks.
And it also adds texture to the soil, allows the soil to be well drained and is often already in standard potting mixes. But I like to add a little bit more because what? She's an overwaterer and she cannot get enough of that well- drained soil.
Next, I have a standard compost mix, which is basically uh plant matter, animal matter, and allows for a slow release of nutrition to the roots of your green girl. It decreases the chances that you're going to overfertilize and burn the roots of your plants, which can often happen with synthetic fertilizer. So going with compost and just mixing it into the mix allows you to not have to worry about fertilizing your plants for quite some time. Then if you want to get a little fancy, you want to add a little ambiance to that planter. Say you have a cactus, you may want to add some horicultural sand. And so I just like to add it on the top layer of cacti or succulent.
Sometimes I do it for my snake plant.
And this just adds like a little bit of a feel of that natural habitat that those plants may come from. So, I tend to use this for more desert uh green girls. And then one thing that I forgot to mention about terracotta pots that I really enjoy is the drainage hole, right? And so drainage holes are really really important because it allows for the water to fall through the planter.
There's no water just stagnant at the bottom of the pot, which could cause root rot, and we're just not here for any of that nonsense. Darling, if you have a situation where you come across a planter and you're like, "Girl, I must have it. It's a must." And she does not have a drainage hole, there's some options, right? The first thing you could do is drill a hole into that planter. Now, you would have to have a drill and you have to be pretty handy. I typically do not handle drills and so I've come up with another option. These are lava rocks. Put these rocks at the bottom of the planter and it raises the soil and the roots above any extra water that may reside at the bottom of the pot. And so this is just another way that you can make sure that the soil is not staying wet for too long and that the roots are not going to experience root rot. All right, darling. Let's get into potting miss snake plant. All right. And so the potting mix is about 50% potting soil, 25% fur bark, and 25% perlite. And the reason that I'm doing this is because the snake plant is used to well drained soil and do not like sitting in wet, soggy soil. So this potting mixture recipe is going to ensure that the soil dries out quickly when you soak this queen with that delicious H2O. All right? And so think about how the roots are coming from a very wet environment and then if you're putting them in a very harsh dry soil that can damage the roots and it can cause a great root shock. And so what we want to do is try to ease that shock and lessen that shock as much as possible.
And so I've watered the soil and I've let it sit overnight so that it's a little damp um in preparation for those fruits. And if you want to get your hands dirty, use your hands. I enjoy getting my hands a little dirty. Or you can use some gloves. You can get a little shovel. Whatever you want to do that makes you feel comfortable. But I'm going to use my hands, honey. So, take a little handful.
Just create a little layer. We do not want the root touching the bottom of the pot, darling. You want the root to be coming in contact with only soil. So, I'm going to take the queen out of her glass jar. All right. And look at those roots. Absolutely gorgeous and lush. And she has a little pup growing out of her leaf. And so I'm quite sure in a couple of weeks this little pup is going to grow into a fabulous lush little leaf, honey. So I'm going to test it. I think she can probably use a little bit more soil.
So I think that is a good length right there. She's not sinking into the pot.
All her roots are coming in contact with the soil. And so now what I'm going to do is just make sure that I cover those roots with the soil. Just make sure that she can stand up on her own. Isn't she just looking gorgeous right here?
And then you just want to press down slightly just to make sure there's not too many air pockets but not too tight because you don't want to damage those roots, right? So, a light little press just to make sure she's nice and snugged in position. So, I'm going to get our little saucer to catch that water because there is a drainage hole here.
All right. So, I'm going to get that.
Bam. Pop that in. Then we're going to give her a delicious drink of that H2O.
Because the soil is very new and hasn't settled yet, you may see that the water resides at the top. But over time, there's going to be little air pockets that are created by the perlite and the furbart that when you immediately water this queen, the water is just going to go straight through the soil. And so, darling, there you have it. Propagation is a fabulous, inexpensive way to continue to green up your home, honey.
Today, we're going to be talking about the best plants for pet parents. One of our most highly requested topics. If your cat or dog likes to nibble on plants, you know that many common household plants can make your pet sick.
Today, we're going to be talking about 11 house plants considered safe for your furry friends. I have two Australian shepherds who get into my plants if left unattended. I'm sure a lot of you can relate. Just a note before we get into the selections, we're using the ASPCA's toxic and non-toxic list as a guide for this video. Although pets will be okay after nibbling on these plants, it's important to remember that chopping on the leaves and soil can cause digestive problems as it would in humans. So, we're going to share some tips to make your plants a little less accessible and appetizing later in the video. And with that in mind, let's get to the first plant. First, let's talk about succulents. Most pets don't like these because they don't smell or taste good, but some succulents are mildly toxic to pets. So, make sure to research the non-toxic varieties just to be extra careful. Echavaria is an easy to find non-toxic succulent. It comes in many shapes and sizes and does best in southern facing windows. Other succulents that are non-toxic to pets include hardy and tender sedum horthia and servivium including this plant called burls tail which is a great hanging option. Isn't it adorable? If you're looking for an eclectic addition to your plant collection that kids also love, check out the Venus fly trap.
These cannivorous plants are non-toxic, so a nibble won't hurt your pet. These plants thrive in bright light and high humidity. Because of this, they make a great option for terrariums. These plants over time can slowly die with tap water, so instead use distilled to keep this plant happy. African violets thrive and bloom in bright indirect light and warm temperatures. They're one of the most popular house plants. Another reason they're totally safe for your cats and dogs. This plant's fuzzy leaves do not like to get wet, so instead try bottom watering with filtered water for best results.
There are more than a thousand species of pepperomia, all which are safe for pets and kids. You've probably heard of the most Instagram worthy pepperomia called the watermelon pepperomia. It is literally named that because the plant's leaves look like tiny baby watermelons.
But you may not have heard of this pilia called the pia depressia. It's also nicknamed the baby tears and is a very cool trailing plant. This makes it a great option for hanging planters like this one. This plant has tiny scallop leaves and is commonly found in terrariums and dish gardens. This plant does best in bright indirect light and be sure to bottom water since the leaves grow close to the soil. Allow the soil to dry out halfway before watering once again. The ASPCA classifies the spider plant as pet friendly for both cats and dogs. This plant is also super easy to care for, so it's no surprise it's been a common household plant for decades.
They are amazing indoor air cleaners and 15 spider plants can purify the air of an averageized home. This is a plant that keeps on giving. Spider plants grow babies called plantlets along the bottom of the plant, giving it a spidery look.
Pluck these babies off and you have a whole new spider plant.
Like pepperomia, all species of pia are considered pet safe. There are many different varieties, but this is the most common one. It's nicknamed the money plant and is known for its UFO like foilage and bold green color. This plant thrives in bright indirect light and grows little pups or offshoots once it's established. This makes it super easy to propagate and share with your friends.
Next, let's talk about the trendy calaththea. This genius of plant has so many colors and is totally pet friendly.
One of my favorite varieties is the Calathia rattlesnake. It's known for its long reptile-like leaves and also its purple unders sides. A cool feature is this plant's leaves open during the day and close up at night. This plant loves a humid environment, which is great for your pet, too. They do best in medium to bright indirect light. The parlor palm is very compact and is actually one of the most popular house plants sold in the world. It thrives in bright indirect light, but can also tolerate some shade, too. People love this plant for its long, lush leaves, and it could also be your cat's next favorite toy. This plant is nicknamed the dwarf palms, so it's perfect for those small spaces.
Ferns are a popular house plant because they're a lush and relatively easy to care for. But not all ferns are fronds with your pets.
The Boston fern is one of the most common ferns and it's pet friendly, but I am partial to the bird's nest fern.
The bird nest fern is also non-toxic to cats and dogs and has long curly fronds.
It needs to be kept in bright and direct to low light and also loves for its soil and leaves to be constantly moist.
Misting this plant every morning will keep it super happy. in the store. This is one of the plants that most people are curious about and it happens to be pet friendly. This is called a bromeilad, but it's also known as an airplane. This plant comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, but I think that the bigger ones really make a bold statement. This plant is also super easy to care for. All you do is soak it in water for 20 minutes once a week. You place it in some bright indirect light and then you can watch it grow. And last, if your pet has a flare for the dramatic, you need a plant that can match that energy. We're talking about the fetonia or the nerve plant. It is known for its colorful lines in its leaves that look like actual veins. This pet friendly plant literally faints when it's thirsty, giving it the nickname the drama queen. Once you water it, it will perk back up in a day. This plant is also a great option for beginners because it gives you a visual cue for when to water next.
Now, let's touch on a few ways to keep your pets from chewing on your plant babies. The best way to do this is to keep plants out of reach of pesky paws.
A >> okay, they are cute paws, but you still don't want them in your plants. Place plants on high shelves or invest in some hanging planters. If your cat continues to chew on plants, get them wheat grass or catnip. Keep these plants near your pet's food bowl to encourage them to nibble a healthier choice. Make your plants unappealing. Purchase a bitter spray designed to deter chewing and use it to sprit your plant's leaves.
Well, I've given you 11 reasons why you should become a plant parent and a pet parent. Which plant was your favorite?
Let us know in the comments below.
Here's how you turn these plants into more plants.
This is a Monsera delissiosa that clearly needs cutting. So, let's get to snipping. The first thing you want to do is find a healthy, happy stem. Along the stem, you want to look for a thing called a node right here that looks like a stem pimple. And it's going to be even better if you also have an aorta root.
These two things attach to make for the perfect cutting. The next thing you want to do is on the node, you want to cut 1/2 in below that stem like this. You want to place it in a glass jar, ideally one that's clear so you can see the roots grow. Then you want to take some water. You have to make sure that it's filtered. And you want to pour it into that glass jar.
When you pour it, make sure that the water is covering the node, but also try to get that aor root in there. Once you put your propagation into water, make sure that you change out the water every 2 to 3 days. You want to look to see if it's cloudy or dirty because you don't want any bacterial or fungal infections.
You want to place in an area that has bright indirect light where the plant cutting isn't getting too much sun, but it has enough sun to grow some roots.
You'll know that your monstera is ready for some soil when you see enough fruits. This plant has been growing in here for about a year, but for your propagation, you only need roots the size of your pinky.
The snake plant, one of the easiest house plants, is even easier to propagate. All you have to do is take a cutting. You want to make sure that it's in a triangle shape. So, let's cut right here and cut right here. Then, you want to dip it in some rooting hormone. You don't have to dip it into rooting hormone, but that does make the rooting process easier. And the last thing you do, make a little hole, put it in some soil, cover it.
You want to water it just a little bit to keep the soil moist. But since the snake plant is a slow grower, you won't see any new babies for about a couple months. So, you got to be really patient with this one.
If you want more plants instantly, you can turn this one pacos into two by division. The first thing you do is to get the entire plant out of the pot. And you want to check the root ball. As you can see, this plant was ready to either be into two plants or have a bigger plant. The next thing you want to do is take your shovel or anything with a sharp edge and you want to cut it.
Breaking up the roots and cutting the plant in half will not kill your plant.
I promise you that your plant will thank you for the bigger pie over time. Other plants that you can divide by splitting are also calas, aglaminas, snake plants, and zezys. These plants are easy to divide. And now for your paos, you had one big one, but now you have two medium and manageable ones. Hey everyone, I'm back with another episode of House Plants 101. Today we're going to be talking about climbing plants. If you've opened up Instagram lately, you've probably seen amazing interior jungles with plants climbing up a wall or around a room. I'm going to share my favorite climbing plants, including some that you might not know about and ways to trellis them. Starting with the moss pole. So, let's get into it. Many trailing plants can also be trained to climb. This is because these plants have aerial roots which in the wild attach to trees. But you can train them to do the same thing inside by using a small trellis or post covered in something that they can climb like rough bark or moss. You can find rat poles for sale at most house plant stores, but it's easy to make your own.
The easiest way to do this is to make a coconut core pole. All you need to make this is coconut core, a steak, and some twine. The first thing you want to do when starting your moss pole is to stretch the cocoa core that you already cut up. This way it makes it easier for when you're trying to roll it into that bamboo stick. After your cocoa core has been worked, then you want to lay it on a flat surface. Grab your bamboo stick and place it in the middle of that cocoa core. Start to tightly roll that worked cocoa core around the bamboo steak. As I'm rolling the coconut core into the bamboo steak, I also tied some twine at the end of the pole to help secure it.
After you tied the twine to the end of the pole, you want to tuck the coconut core in and start wrapping the twine across the pole as tightly as you can.
And at the end, when you're almost done wrapping the pole, make sure to double knot the end of the pole to secure the moss and the bamboo stick in place. Now, this moss pole is ready to go to stick into your favorite binding plant. If you don't like the look of a moss pole, there are lots of other options from a trellis to a dowel to even a plank of wood. Using a trellis or a wood pole also allows you to swap out the support more easily than a moss pole. Now that we covered some trellis options, here are my favorite climbing house plants.
First, let's talk about the Hoya family.
You might have seen this plant in your grandma's kitchen, and there's a reason why it's been popular for generations.
This is a plant that can live forever, take some bright, intense sun, and it's an easy trailer or climber. Hoya are also known as wax plants because of the waxy appearance of their leaves. This plant requires lots of light and humidity, so would be the perfect addition to a bright sunroom or even a bathroom. This plant likes to dry out completely in between waterings. In this case, the Hoya is actually trellised by stapling these vines to the Dow.
This plant is a slow grower, but as you can see, over time, this plant can really make a big impact. Next up, we're going to be talking about one of my favorite vining plants. It's called the filidendrron mikins. It's popular for its velvet heart-shaped leaves that trail or climb as it grows. It's surprisingly easy to care for, a quick grower, and thrives in bright and direct sunlight. The velvety leaves do not like to be wet, so you have to find other ways to add humidity to your environment. Another great climbing plant is called the filidendrin red emerald. This plant is known for its red stems and long heart-shaped leaves. In the wild, this plant can climb up to 60 feet, but indoors, it still gets pretty tall. It usually maxes out at 10 to 12 feet. This plant doesn't like to have wet feet, so it's better to air on the side of underwatering versus overwatering. It can do well in medium to bright indirect light, but the stems will be more vibrant if it's receiving more intense light. The filadendrin pink princess has taken the house plant world by storm and is a highly sought plant baby. This plant is known for its pink variegation, which is why it's harder to find these days. The good news is this plant is relatively easy to care for.
It's a super quick grower, loves bright indirect light, and only needs water about once every two weeks. The more bright indirect light this plant gets, the more likely you'll see these vivid pink sections that everyone knows and loves. This plant may not look like a climber get, but it's already needing some support. So now I'm going to add a moss pole and secure the plant with some twine. As the plant grows, the aerial roots will eventually attach to the pole. The monstera addisoni is also called the Swiss cheese vine and that's because of its leaf splits. These holes are also called penistrations and they're a little more delicate than the ones that you see on a typical monstera delissiosa. This plant grows quickly and easily climbs a moss pole or trellis like it's second nature. It also looks amazing in a hanging basket. This vine prefers bright and direct light.
Watering is the trickiest part as it likes its soil to be kept moist but not soggy or wet. When it needs to be watered, it will give you a visual cue and the leaves will start to droop. POS is one of the easiest house plants to grow. It was actually my first house plant ever. This plant is a fast grower and looks great in hanging baskets.
Golden paos is also one of the most common varieties. This plant is such an easy propagator and grows roots quickly whenever you place a cutting in some water. This paos can tolerate anywhere from high light to low light. The more light it receives, the more variegation the leaves will have. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings and watch it grow quickly. The raphora tetrisma is also called the mini monstera. Well, because it looks like a mini monstera, but this vining plant is actually not in the same family at all.
This plant loves to climb and works great with a trellis to help its leaves spread out. This plant thrives in guess what? Bright indirect light. They'll survive in lower light conditions, but the plant won't get its characteristic leaf splits. Since it's such a vigorous grower, it needs to be repotted at least once a year to keep it happy. Since the monstera delissiosa has become a very popular house plant, you probably already know about this one. But what you may not actually know is that this plant is a very large vine. These plants can get really tall in the wild. Think as tall as a building, but indoors, they can reach up to 6 to 8 ft tall as well.
To help these plants reach its truest height potential, you're going to need a moss pole or a trellis to keep them upright. The Monsera delissiosa loves bright indirect light, so keep it a few feet away from southern, eastern, or even western facing windows. So, I've shared some of my favorite climbing plants. Now, what did I miss? Share some of your favorites in the comments below.
Hi friends, I'm Hilton Carter, plant stylist, artist, and author. And to know me is to know that I love filling my home with beautiful lush living plants.
But that's not the only way to add greenery to your space. It actually is what inspired me to write my latest book, Wild Creations, which features ways to add that jungle vibe without maybe all of the light or that plant knowledge. So today, I'm going to show you all how to create a preserved moss wall art. So, let's get wild.
You're going to first need a frame. You got to put your moss into something. You can either buy one from the store, you can get it from a thrift store, or you can save yourself some money and maybe pull down one of those pieces of art on your wall that you're not really into anymore and make a piece of art with this. The next thing you're going to need is definitely some board. I have foam board here, or you can use cardboard, recycle, that's a good idea.
The next thing you will need will be a glue gun. And make sure you have with that glue sticks. Very important for your glue gun. You need glue sticks.
You're going to need a box cutter or X-acto blade, but make sure you do have a sharp blade. The sharper the better.
You're going to need a pencil or pen to do the drawing to sketch out how that whole thing is going to come together for yourself. You're going to need a pair of scissors. The scissors will help you trim up uh those edges of your moss.
You're going to need some picture wire, some picture hangers to help you hang your art. You might want to use gloves to protect those little fingers. And the one thing you're going to definitely need to protect your surface that you're working on will be a cutting board. But the most important part of this process will be all of this good moss here. We have rain deer moss. We have sheet moss.
You can never have enough moss. We're all mossed out. This is preserved moss.
This type of moss doesn't need to be watered. It's preserved. So, it's kind of like if you can think about uh it's the taxiderermy of moss. It was once fully alive. Right now, it is dried up and protect it so that it doesn't completely die. So, let's get to it. So, the first thing you want to do is you want to take your board, whether it's foam or cardboard, and you want to literally sketch out what you want those shapes to be, cuz you want to give the piece depth. You want it to be 3D. You want it to pop off that wall. So everything is going to build up around the center. So to give it a little bit of wildness, I'm going to think about the edge and what that should look like.
Just have fun, play with it. And we're going to do this over and over again to build up the actual piece itself to give it depth. So I'm going to just draw a lot of different pieces. So once you have your nice shapes all drawn out, sketched out, next thing you're going to do is you're going to take your sharp blade and follow it along the lines of your drawing. Now, the sharper your blade is, the easier it will be cutting along the lines, making sure it's right.
Great. Look at that. You got your pieces. Even the the extra will end up in the piece. So, make sure you're saving all of your board. I'm going to cut two more pieces.
Now, once you have all your pieces cut, you're going to bring your frame in.
You're going to be working on the back panel of your frame. You're going to start adding your pieces to your frame just to get a good idea of how everything is going to look and be framed out. So, the first thing I'm going to do is build it up a bit. Grab some of these pieces.
Yeah, I kind of like that. Here, I kind of like built this wild hills, rolling hills in a way. your flat planes here at the bottom and then your mountain ranges kind of bubble up at the edges which will give it really nice I would say depth. Oh, I got this. Look at that.
That's what I want. So, this is it. This is what I'm going to go for. It's probably important to start jotting down exactly where your layers are going to go so you don't forget cuz you're going to start gluing them in. Right. So, I know my top piece here, I'll write that down as one. I'll take it off. next piece here. All right, is there two I'll take that off. I'll do my next piece.
Three, eight, and nine.
So, what I'm going to do first is I'm going to start gluing my sheet moss down. So, what you want to do is go to the back.
Nice dollops of hot glue cuz you're going to need them.
And then press down nice and hard on there. Now we're going to bring in nine.
That piece of board which was nine. Now we're going to add the other layers in here.
Going to add that in there.
Boom. So I'm going to add eight to it.
Seven.
Going to do this for every single piece.
So I have all my pieces in. Now I'm going to fill in all of the spots with moss. I'm going to just start squeezing this in. You don't have to worry about those edges around the sides because those will get filled in with extra moss. Now, when it comes to this, we're going to just start building, adding.
So, I'm going to get a good eye of where I'm going to start placing some of these mosses. I think I might want to go with this almost neon greenish look around this edge. So, now I know where I'm going to be placing most of my moss. So, I'm going to just start gluing it in.
Woo! Now that is what I am talking about. Look at this beauty.
That's all fun, baby. Here we go. So, now you just have to hang it and enjoy it.
Hey everyone, welcome back to Handmade.
I'm Liz. Well, raise your hand if you are obsessed with green houses. I cannot stop looking at photos of outdoor green houses, salariums, conservatories even.
But I don't have room or the budget for something like that at my current space.
But what I do have room for is a mini greenhouse, and that's what we're going to be making today. I searched online for these, and they can be pretty expensive, so it seemed like a good opportunity to DIY. And because I didn't want to make this project too challenging, I decided to use photo frames as the structure to my greenhouse. I did find some inexpensive frames, but because they weren't that inexpensive, about $3 to $4 each or about $30 in frames, I did not test this project ahead of this video. So, we are really going to see whether it really works in real time, and I'll give you tips along the way as I learn through this process. So, let's get into the project and see how it goes. To make this greenhouse, you'll need six 8 by8 inch frames plus three 8 by10 frames.
For this project, it's important to choose frames in the same color and style. Also, make sure that the supports on the back come completely off. So, I'm starting with one 8x8 frame. Remove the back. You'll want to take off anything that you would be able to see from the front of the glass once the back is gone.
Then use pliers to remove any supports.
These have metal tabs.
Now grab your glass and some permanent adhesive and glue the glass into the frame. Repeat that with all six 8x8 frames. Pause for lesson one. Lesson learned number one. The glue you use does matter. I used a couple of different permanent adhesives on this project and I found that E6000 worked best for me. The other glues that I tried did leave a residue on the corners of the glass where the glue peaked through. That's something to keep in mind when trying this project yourself.
Back to the project. We're going to do the same process with two of the 8x10 frames. Remove the backing. Pull out the metal supports and glue in place. Let all of the frames dry completely before moving on to the next step. For the last 8x10 frame, I'm taking out both the glass and the backing. This is going to be the center support for my greenhouse.
While those are drying, I'm going to use square dowels to create panes of glass.
You can find these at any craft store.
I'm using the back of the frame that we set aside to measure the dowels. Even if your frame says 8x10 on the front, the exact size may vary. So, that's where the back piece really comes in handy to measure accurately. For each 8x8 frame, you'll need one 8 in piece and two shorter ones to create four paints. For the two 8 by10 pieces, you'll need one 10-in support and four shorter pieces to create six panes.
I'm also going to use the back of one of these frames as a paint palette. And I'm going to save the rest of these back pieces to use for this in the future or who knows what else. A crafter never really throws things away, right?
You can't see me, but I'm looking at a box full of trash. I mean, future crafts in my craft space right now. Anyway, I'm painting these with black craft paint and a foam brush. I needed to add two coats before they looked evenly covered.
Let these dry for about an hour. Next, it's time to add supports to the frames.
As I said earlier, I found that super glue discolored the glass a bit. So, I'm using hot glue for the supports just for safety. And I'm gluing the supports to the frame on each end, but only to each other in the center, not the glass, so the glue isn't visible from the front.
With all of those steps done, it's time to start assembling our greenhouse. I'm adding hinges to the front of the greenhouse so that I can open two doors.
You don't have to do this, but I think they also add a little bit of style as well as function. These are 2.2 in. And tape them to the corner of the frames.
Pre-drill the holes with a 1/16thin drill bit. Then grab the tiny screws.
These come with the hinges. And attach.
I'm using a small Phillips head screwdriver for this. The screwdriver in a glasses repair kit would also be perfect for this. Repeat the hinges with two more frames, mirroring the setup so that both front frames open like doors.
Now take your two hinged frames and glue a third 8x8 frame to the back corner of the hinge section with permanent adhesive. Repeat this for the other side. I'm adding some painters tape to secure until it's dry. Okay, next.
Remember that frame with no glass? Glue that to the back 8x8 frame, being sure not to glue it to the front hinge door.
Bring in your mirrored section and repeat that on the other side. Tape and let dry. And the final flourish, the roof. I think this is really what makes it look like a tiny greenhouse and also function as a greenhouse. So, it's kind of important. Grab the two 8x10 frames and glue them to the center support and the two side frames, being careful again not to get glue on the swinging front doors. Tape in the center to secure them until the glue dries, ideally overnight.
Yeah, cuz I don't know what I'm going to say next. I wanted to make a greenhouse and then the greenhouse fell apart.
Cool.
It was very challenging to move the complete finished greenhouse as one big piece. So, as you can see, it did come in glued after moving it a few times. I reglued once it was in place and recommend moving it on a tray or a piece of wood to help keep the bottom level while it's in transit. Luckily, once it's in place, it doesn't have to move around a lot, but that's just something to keep in mind when figuring out your structure. I let the new glue dry overnight, and now it's working as advertised to keep my plants happy in a humid environment. Another way to make it easier to move is to create a smaller version. Consider using thrifted wood frames for this. just spray paint them a pretty color like this coral and glue them together for a cute home that houses a single plant. The greenhouse turned out super cute in the end, but I won't lie, it was a little bit more expensive and more challenging than I thought it would be. It goes to show that sometimes a lot of craftsmanship goes into things and that's why they cost more. Definitely spend some time before you glue your greenhouse together making sure that the structure makes sense. And if you are doing a larger greenhouse like I did, consider building it in sections that scoot together so that you can easily move it. If you're looking for the perfect afternoon project for you or your kids, I highly recommend this terrarium kit. It comes with everything you need. Step-by-step instructions, a glass terrarium with succulent soil and fertilizer, a miniature set of tools, fun different colored reindeer moss, a mini cactus, two colors of pebbles, and a few adorable decoration pieces. A light spritz is all it needs to stay watered, and I love that it's customizable and such a relaxing activity. It looks so stylish in my home. I may just need to get another one.
Welcome back to HGTV Handmade. I am Maria Antuinette and today I am going to be sharing with you how to create an aromatic tabletop garden. Here are a few things that you're going to need. You're going to need your ceramic container. I painted this and I have a video on it, so make sure you check that video out because there's a lot of great tips in it. You're going to want to have some herbs. We have basil and sage. You're going to want to have an aromatic plant.
And then you're going to want to have your accent florals. And don't forget dirt. What is a garden without dirt, right? So, my first step is going to be putting my dirt into my container. You want to leave about 2 in to an inch from the top of the container. That way, there's space for your plants to grow up and out. All right, I have my gloves on.
Let's get this potting started. Did you see what I did there? Potting. I know you got it. All right. So, my first piece that I want to put in will be this amazing red rubbing basil. You guys, I really wish YouTube had a smell cam cuz it just smells amazing. We're going to squish it a little bit in the container and we're going to pull that out. You want to make sure that you squeeze those roots so that when you put them into the new soil, they'll be able to breathe and open and acclimate. So, we're going to put that in. We're going to go over to the next basil. This is just your basic basil that you see on your pizza.
Everything like that.
Smells amazing as well. We're going to squeeze those roots. Wake them up. You see them falling? That's what you want.
Then you want to make a hole for it and drop her down in there. Beautiful. Okay.
Right now, these look short, but basil grows tall. That's why I have it in the center. I'm now going to take my sweet annie. Now, this is not an edible herb, but the aroma from it, I think there should be like a perfume made from this.
It smells amazing. Same concept, guys.
You're going to squeeze it out of the container. You guys see all that rooting? We're going to just squeeze it.
Knock some of that dirt off. Be gentle with her. Plants have fillings, too. All right. We're going to put a hole in. And you always want to space things out so that the roots have space to grow outwards. So, we have our aroma in the middle and our herbs around it. Now, I'm going to add in the last herb, and this is sage. Sage is a beast, you guys. It will take over this whole thing. So, I know eventually I will have to pull this out of this container and probably put it into its own container. But for now, since it's a baby sage, it's going to be absolutely gorgeous. I really love using this variation of sage. This isolor sage because of the contrast in the greens, and I just think it'll be another great pop of color inside of the arrangement.
We don't need all of this, so you can break it off and let some of that fall.
Because this is going to need a little bit more space, I'm going to take it more to the edge of the arrangement.
Beautiful. So, these are my Easter bonnet whites. These are a great flower to do on the outer perimeter of my arrangement. The reason why I went with these is because they stay small. Now, when you go to your nursery, I'm sure they'll be able to help you find the right flowers for your arrangement. The really cool thing about using these florals, especially from a nursery, is they come in packs of multiples. This one comes in a pack of six. It's really nice to have them so that way you can space them out and you don't have to break them apart on your own. There's nothing scientific about this. You give them a hole in a space and you plop them in there. I seriously wish you guys can smell this. This arrangement smells like magic. We're going to use about two more.
Think that's pretty good. Now we're going to come in and add some of the snapd dragons. I'm probably going to do two snapdragons. I love using these because they grow tall as well and it's a great pop of color. Some really cool things about a tabletop garden like this is that the care for them is very simple. These can be grown indoors as well as outdoors. If you're going to leave this indoors, I recommend that it's in direct light. So, you're probably like, "Okay, well, how often do I have to water this?" All of these herbs, depending if you have them indoors or out, you just want to make sure that the soil stays moist. So watering is going to totally depend upon the environment that they're in. If they're outside, you might want to water them every day on an extremely hot day.
But if you're inside, it might be every other day or every 3 days. The best way to test how frequent you should water this by simply taking your hand and touching your soil. If it's damp, you're probably good. If it's dry, it's time to water your arrangement. All right, guys.
I cannot Oh, I just wish you guys could smell how good this smells. I know you can see how beautiful it is. And I really hope you enjoyed this video and I will see you in the next one. Bye.
>> Hey, I'm Andrew.
>> I'm Dennis.
>> We're the Crafty Lumberjacks. Welcome back to Handmade. Have you heard of a blooming table before?
>> I know a blooming onion.
>> Basically, a blooming table is a large table with a garden underneath and glass on top.
>> Yes. Today we're actually going to be taking a thrift store find and turning it into a mini blooming table that's perfect for a small space. Let's get started. So, we found this shadow box at a thrift store, but you can actually get them at big box stores or craft stores.
This one is intentionally for a flag, but we really love the shape. The first thing you want to do is take it apart and take out the glass and put it aside somewhere safe cuz we're going to use that later. Now, we're going to be raising the glass using these standoffs.
And these are used for signs against the wall that kind of push them out a little bit, but we thought they'd be perfect because we really want to add a little bit of height with the glass in the end.
Yes, we're going to use it as little risers. So, the first thing I'm going to do is drill holes in each corner that we're going to put the standoffs in in just a little bit. Now that we have everything drilled, I'm just going to put the box together again without the glass. And I'm going to glue it in with some glue. Yeah. And we're just doing that to reinforce the base here because we're going to have all our plants and our soil, you know, in there. We don't want the bottom falling out. That would be a disaster.
>> Yeah. Well, you know, but that's just our luck. It is. But, you know, we're going the easy way. We're just going to glue it all shut. And then we're going to line it with a liner just so it's completely waterproof. And I'm just going to do the same on the back as well. We're using hot glue, but you can use uh, you know, extra duty, heavy strength glue. You can even uh use cocking to seal this. Oh, totally. You said duty. Now that our bottom is sealed, we're going to add a plastic liner just so everything is waterproof. Now, we're just using a piece of a shower curtain that we had.
You just want to make sure that it's nice and thick. You could use a thick plastic bag, anything like that. And the great thing about this is you do not have to worry how it looks. This seems to be a little big, so I'm just going to trim it down a little bit, but we're going to trim it down just so you won't see any of this of the mechanics of it all, you know. All right. So, I'm just going to press the liner in and just make sure that I have enough on each edge. And it looks like I do. And now I'm just going to add glue to the bottom and press it back in. And again, this is all going to be covered. So, you know, we like to talk about crafters uh using their own language and kind of doing what works for them. So, you do you. We just wanted to create a liner because uh we don't want the water or the soil to damage the wood.
>> Absolutely. You could use like a spray sealer that like has a rubberized coating or anything like that. That would totally work as well, but I feel like this is a pretty easy solution to a problem. So, now that I have the bottom all set, I'm just going to do the same thing on the corners and on the edges just to make sure it's all nice and stuck. So, I'm just adding glue to the edge and then pressing it. You know, it's kind of refreshing using a glue gun like this cuz I feel like usually when you use glue guns, you have to make sure you're not getting it everywhere.
>> Yeah. There's not over spill or anything. So, you're just throwing it on.
>> Exly. I'm kind of loving this. A good tip is also if your liner is a little thinner, make sure you're using a low tempmp glue gun just so it doesn't melt through the liner. This is a really heavy duty shower curtain, so I'm not too worried about it. But you do want to be careful cuz you just don't want to melt through the plastic. Now that we have our liner in, I'm just going to trim off all the edges just so it's a nice clean look. Again, you will not see the liner, so you do not have to worry about how you're cutting. This is just the mechanics.
>> Yeah. Yeah. And you could always tuck in the liner once we have our soil and everything in there.
>> Totally. I think that's a good tip to cut the liner a little bigger than you want and then just tuck it in just so you don't overcut. It's a little harder to fix your mistakes when you overcut.
So, I'm actually just going to take all this and I'm just going to push it in.
Now, it's time to add our standoffs.
They come in two pieces. And we're going to thread the actual top piece. This is used for the top. Usually, we're going to thread it through the bottom. So, just put it right through the hole. So, you're going to need to poke the plastic just so the screw can come in. And then you can just screw them in together.
And I'm going to repeat the same thing on each hole.
Now that we have our box all put together, we're going to start planting.
Now, we're going to do a layer of charcoal first. And what that's going to do, it's going to soak up all that stagnant water just because we have no drainage holes. That's really going to help. We found this charcoal just at our local florist and you can pretty much find it anywhere at a big box hardware store. You should probably able to find it, but it really does help. This is going to help with root rot and just keeping these succulents alive. And now we're just going to add some soil. And this we're actually using um cactus soil. You know, you want to use the the correct soil for whatever plant you're planting.
>> Absolutely.
And now we can start adding in our succulents. I like to wiggle the roots just to wake them up a bit. And I also like to think of clumping them together just in little vignettes.
Now, succulents are one of those types of plants that can be really hard to keep alive, but the trick that I learned that I try to follow is really to underwater them. They are a type of cactus, so they don't like to be overwatered. And I think that's what a lot of people, including myself, have kind of done before. Just water them weekly. They actually don't want too much water. So, letting them be sometimes is the best thing you can do for a succulent. All right. Now that we have our succulents in place, I'm just going to add more soil just so all the roots are covered.
>> Yeah. And actually, we thought we found these succulents in this little log uh planter thing. We thought it really cute and uh we thought might as well just throw it right in there.
>> Absolutely.
All right, it's all about the details.
So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to brush off any soil with a brush. This is just going to make sure, you know, that it looks good and also that the plant, you know, can live its best life. And now I'm going to add some rocks. Yeah, I think this is where like the creative aspect comes in. You know, add your festive flourishes, like we like to say, like rocks. We also found some cute miniatures at our local craft store which are going to be um you know add a pop of color and some uh whimsy to it.
>> But get creative with this part.
>> Yeah. And that's like this is like obviously the fun part. You can really change it up for any season. I'm also really trying to make sure that all of the plastic lining is covered by the rocks or tucked in just so it has the cleanest look. And now so many craft stores have so many miniatures that it's really easy to find. These details really complete the look. I mean, I think it's so cute already.
So, we're actually going to be adding some clear bumpers that we got at the hardware store just so that we have more height because we want good airflow so the plants get uh some air and we also uh want to be able to easily remove the glass so that we can water it. Now, this is obviously a a big statement piece, but it's also really not meant for uh children. You know, you want to make sure it's in a nice safe place just because um it is very fragile.
>> Yeah, it's very delicate. I like to say delicate.
>> Delicate. All right. It is very delicate.
>> Just like me. I'm I'm a I'm a delicate flower.
>> Sure you are.
>> And I mean that's pretty much it. You can add a trim or a border to your glass piece here.
That goes right on.
>> Wow. It's adorable.
>> I'm really impressed. It's >> adorable.
Hi everyone, my name is Wesley Tenpierre and I'm an interior plant stylist. I'm the owner of the plant design studio by West Leaf.
If you saw my shop tour, you might have seen the beautiful succulent garden and the gold dish that I created. Let's make one together. So, in front of me, I have a mixture of cacti and succulents. The reason for this mix is they are mostly medium to highlight plants. So, this design you'll want to put directly in front of a south or west facing window as they require a lot of light. I love succulent designs because they require really minimal watering. So, it's a really fun way to spruce up your space without needing much attention or care.
Let's get started. All right, so our first step is to use our well draining soil mix. And I kind of just ballpark how much soil that I'm using. I kind of go halfway up the bowl in this case. And then I'm going to use my tools to flatten it out.
So, at West Leaf, we make our own soil mix. If you look in here, you'll see that we have organic soil, charcoal, some bits of orchid bark, the white pieces are perlite, and we also have worm castings in here. That helps the mix be nice and airy and not retain too much water. Succulents don't like a lot of water. So, in order to start potting our plants, I like to give each succulent a tight squeeze, and that helps separate the plant from the planter. You'll notice that some of the roots are starting to get loose. So, I like to just give everyone a nice little shake. That lets them know that they have time to grow in their new spot.
There's really no science or magic to where you place your plants. I kind of just go with the vibes. I usually go with some of my lower succulents on the perimeter, and I like to hide my cacti in the center as a way to protect kids from sticking their hands in and not getting hurt.
So, as I go around, I'm kind of creating a bit of a valley, and I'm tucking in the plants in nice and close. Once I have my plants kind of in place, I use the back of my tools to break up the root ball. It helps loosen so that the plants know that they have more room to grow.
So, life as a plant stylist is really interesting. We have weeks that are super busy where we're doing rental activities. We have popups and all sorts of fun events going on. But I really love the opportunities where I can just come to the studio when things are kind of quiet and I can just plant. It gives me time to reflect. It gives me time to kind of be grateful and think about all the amazing experiences I've had since starting um this work as a plant stylist. All the amazing people that I've met along the way. And I don't know, it's just good for the vibes honestly cuz what's therapy for? You could just plant stuff. So, don't worry too much about the roots. You don't want to cause too much trauma so that you're tearing it apart, but you do want to assure that you're giving the soil a good shake so that the the roots stop growing in that circular motion that it was stuck in that cup and that it has time to really fill up this pot. So, there's really no science to to where you're laying things out because all of these plants require the same amount of care. It doesn't really matter where you put them. It's more about deciding what you want it to look like. If you want it to kind of like have a front or a back, if you're or if you're okay with it being more of a 360. I'm actually going to move this to the other side. I aim to not have similar textured plants too close to each other. I just feel like it gives it more depth and it's just more visually appealing. Make sure you protect your fingers by using all the tools that you need so that you're not touching the cacti directly. Oh my gosh.
Let me tell you a horror story. I was at a big box store, first mistake, and I was looking at succulents. This is when I first got into it, into plants, and then I dropped a cactus. Do you want to know what I did? I tried to catch it.
And then I had splinters all through my hand for weeks. It took weeks for them to come out. Make sure that you're not like me and that you protect your fingers.
What's great about these designs is that they're very forgiving. There's no perfect way to make them. There's no right way. There's no wrong way. What you do want to make sure is that the plants you choose all need the same amount of care. That's the only thing that you can possibly do wrong is choosing plants such as foliage plants to plant with succulents. So, if you ever go to a big box store and you see that they've mixed foliage plants with succulent plants, run. Do not buy it.
It's a bad idea and it's a setup for failure. Those types of plants require different types of care. So, putting them in the same type of planter, you'll either kill the foliage plant or you'll kill the succulent. And I know you don't want to do either. I'm tucking in our last succulent here. And I am very excited with how it turned out. What do y'all think? Vibing or not vibing? I think it's a vibe. So, after I've tucked everything in here, you'll find that sometimes that they're not necessarily sticking up perfectly. It's all fine.
And you're going to use your moss to help anchor your plant. I like to add pops of color with my spring designs because obviously it's spring. Those are the vibes. Why wouldn't you want to? So, I like to use my pieces to kind of tuck in my moss. So, the great thing about this moss is it does not require any care at all. Um, it's artificial. Some of it is preserved. So, it does not need any care. It just adds to the aesthetic, makes it beautiful. It helps anchor the piece in place, and yeah, it just adds just some general pizzazz to your design. So, I try to be mindful that I'm not repeating the same colors because I don't want red back to back.
But moss comes in a ton of different colors, which is fabulous. We have them in blues. We have them in reds. You can go all all greens. You can go all purple. You can literally do whatever you want. In the case of myself, I like to create designs that are mostly white rods because I'm super boring. But you're not boring. Don't be me. Be better. And we're almost done here. Are we having a good time? So, I like to look around and kind of look at the spaces where I see soil. So, even though it looks like it's done, you'll find some spaces here where you still see soil. I choose to cover them. Some people might not. I care and I honestly just think you should too. So, we're going to go in and tuck some more pieces in the center and then we can call it good. So, the last thing I like to do is I go around with just a regular paintbrush and dust off the cacti. They like to catch on to my moss. I don't like that. I like a really clean look when I plant my designs. And this is what we end up with.
So, when it comes to watering, I like to get these little squeeze bottles.
They're 250 mls. Water once a month, and you can literally just go around.
There's no perfect way to do it. And you just water right through. And I would empty this whole situation right into the design. This doesn't have a drainage hole in our case, so we want to be really mindful of the amount of water that we're putting into the design. And we'll know that this plant is thirsty when we start to see some wilting. You'll notice that when the plants are really watered, they're nice and taut and full. And over time, as they use their water and photosynthesize, they'll start to get depleted and look wrinkly. That's when you'll know it's time to water them.
Finally, like with all our designs, I stick a plant care card in there. It tells you that a succulent, water when it's completely dry. Make sure you give it some bright light. And of course, my phone number at the bottom if you ever need help.
I hope this inspires you to take some time to create your own succulent garden. Don't forget to find a bright, sunny spot and water it once a month.
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>> Hey, I'm Dennis.
>> I'm Andrew.
>> Welcome back to Handmade at Home.
>> You know, this time of year, we always love to think of fresh ways to bring the outside in. So, today we're going to be making fresh modern planters for our house plants.
>> Yes. And it's been brought to our attention that not everybody has access to a craft store. Can you believe that?
So, we want to challenge ourselves to make our planters only using materials that we found at the hardware store.
Let's get started.
Today, we're going to be making two different planters. We were walking around the hardware store and we came across PVC piping and we realized it was the perfect choice because it's inexpensive, it's easy to use, and it comes in a lot of different shapes.
>> Yes. And right now, those curved and rounded uh silhouette shapes are super in, super trendy. So, we saw this and we thought it would be perfect. Let me check. Hello. Hello. Is anybody there?
>> Oh, it's for me.
>> Yes. So, we're going Oh, he's got to take this. I have to.
>> So, we're going to be cutting these down to size uh using a miter box and saw.
But the best part about PVC pipe is that it's really super easy to work with and you could use a wide variety of tools to cut it down. We're going to start with our big pipe here. This is a big one I think we got for under $4. And the the best thing about the miter box is that it has different grooves here and different angles that you can follow.
We're actually going to cut into the pipe and follow uh one of the grooves of the angles here. But before I do that, I'm just going to uh secure it with a little clamp just so it doesn't move around too much as I'm sawing. Yeah. And this is actually we're basing this planter off of one that we saw online that was over $100. So, it's going to have a nice sharp angle. I think it's going to look really nice.
There it is. Oh, yeah. Pretty cute.
Now, we're just going to sand down these uh little bits here that got stuck until we have a nice clean uh shape.
>> Yeah. We're also going to sand down uh this writing here. We are going to spray paint it, but we just want to sand these down just so you don't it doesn't come through at all.
>> Yeah, I guess we can do that right now.
>> All right. For our next planter, unfortunately, it does not fit in the miter box the way we want it to. So, I'm just going to use the miter box to help hold on to it. And before I start cutting, I'm just going to draw a line across because that's where I want it cut. I want it to be like a nice flat top where the plant will come out this way. And then I'm just going to do my best to cut it. So, I think that's probably a good amount to cut. So, I'm just going to use a marker and draw it as a guide.
There we go. And now I'm just going to start sewing.
All right.
>> Watch your fingers.
>> Yes. Thank you. Yes. If you're doing this at home, please watch your fingers.
All right.
Okay. It looks pretty good. So, I'm going to do the same thing. I'm just going to sand it down just to get these rough edges out.
And since we sanded down the exterior of the other one, I'm going to do the same thing just so the spray paint aderes the same way. Okay, so the sawing is done.
I'm so glad the sawing is on.
>> Yes, they're looking super cute. Yes, we worked up a sweat. And now we're going to um add a base using these caps that we found at the hardware store. Um they match perfectly to the pipe.
>> Yeah, and this is great cuz we found the same section as the PVC pipe. If you want to make some drainage holes, you can do that easily just by taking a craft knife, cutting some holes, or even using the drill. And now that that's done, we're going to take these out to spray paint. We're going to be using some textured spray paint that's really going to take the look over the top. And we're basically almost done. I can't believe how quick this project is. It looks so good already.
They're all dry.
>> Yes, they look really good. What we love about this spray paint, it really adds uh this texture to it. Now, on this one, you can kind of see some of the mechanics of the pipe. You see like a little line here. If that bothers you, take some heavyduty sandpaper and just sand it down before you spray it. But, I mean, I think it looks really great. And that stone really like that stone look really kind of hides a lot of that.
>> Yes. So, now we're just going to add our plants and then we're done.
All right. So, we're going to start with our first layer. It's going to be rocks.
That's because we're working with a cactus and a succulent. This is a good idea if you did not add drainage holes.
We ended up adding some just because we were getting worried that, you know, honestly, we just kill every plant we we own. So, we just wanted to prevent that.
So, we're just going to add some rocks to the bottom. And this is just so if there is any water buildup, it's not touching the roots. There you go. And then I'm going to add some soil. And now our cactus.
Okay. And then I'm just going to add some soil.
Ow, I keep forgetting it's a cactus. All right. And then to top it off, I'm just going to add some more rocks just to give it a nice cohesive look. It looks so cute. Oh my gosh. All right, I'm going to do the same thing with this one. Here's a good tip. Use a paintbrush just to get all that soil off as you work. Very cute.
Modern chic.
Expensive, but cheap. Hardware chic.
real.
>> Yes.
>> Oh my gosh.
>> Come on.
>> They look so great. I, you know, I had doubts about this macaroni noodle one, but I I'm sold. I really like it.
>> It really is so cute. And to think we made it for just a few dollars in a quick trip to the hardware store.
>> Yes. We want to hear if you've ever made a project using PVC pipes in a comment below.
>> Don't forget to like and subscribe and we'll see you soon. Bye.
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Hey, hey, hey. Heat. Heat. Heat.
Hey guys, welcome back to HGTV Handmade.
Today I'm going to start a garden, but as you guys know, I live in an apartment, so I don't exactly have a yard to work with. But that doesn't mean that I can't build a little baby garden on my patio. I'm starting with herbs because they're fairly easy to take care of. So, even if you don't think you have a green thumb, this is a great place to start. For this project, you will need large mason jars, rocks, potting mix, potting charcoal, and your favorite herbs. I chose spearmint, thyme, parsley, basil, cilantro, and rosemary.
So, an important thing to know about herbs is that they need to be able to drain really well. So, ideally, you would plant them in a container that has a hole in the bottom. So, you might be wondering, why are you going to plant them in mason jars? Well, even though you can drill a hole in the bottom of a mason jar with the right equipment, I'm going to show you how to create a drainage system on the inside of the jar. First, add a layer of rocks. About 1 to 2 in should do. Next, add some potting charcoal. This helps to improve drainage, so it's crucial in a container without a drainage hole at the bottom.
Finally, add potting mix. Don't fill it all the way up to the top because we still have to transplant the herb. You can choose to start from seed or to transplant an existing herb. If you're a beginner, I'd recommend going with a transplant. Remove the herb from its container and pull away any of the excess soil so that the herb will fit through the opening of the mason jar.
You'll want to plant this so that the base of the herb is even with the top of the mason jar. Now that you planted your herbs, you need to find somewhere to put them. And you want good access to sunlight, whether you put them indoors or outdoors. If your kitchen has good access to sunlight, you can line them up on your counter. But unfortunately, I don't have any windows in or near my kitchen. So, I've chosen to put mine outside. And I'm going to show you how I built a planter on the railing of my patio. To build the planter, I used a wooden crate and two adjustable plant brackets. You can find these at your local hardware store. These steps are optional, but I sanded and painted the crates. And then I added chalkboard labels.
To install the bracket, all you have to do is place it over the railing and then tighten the screw on the top to secure it in place.
Install the second bracket so that the crate can fit between the two.
Now you can adjust the bottom of the bracket to fit the crate. Make sure to tighten the screws on the bottom to secure everything in place. If you live somewhere that's still pretty chilly this time of year, I would start your herbs indoors and then wait until the warmer months to move them outdoors. But I live in Texas and it's already starting to get pretty warm here. So, I've started mine outdoors and I think they should do pretty well. And of course, don't forget to water your herbs. You want to keep the soil moist, but if you overwater them, the roots can actually rot, so don't drown them. Also, the best time of day to water is in the morning. So, don't forget to give your herbs a drink right after you wake up.
Hey guys, welcome back to Handmade. I am Maria Antuinette and today I am going to be walking you through how to take a shoe organizer and change it into an herb garden. So, let's get into what you're going to need for this tutorial.
You're going to need a utility knife.
You're going to want to grab some small gravel stone. I picked mine up at the aquarium store and they come in a ton of different colors so you can make this as adventurous as you want to. Of course, you're going to need dirt. And if you don't want to get your hands dirty, it's okay to use a spade. And of course, you're going to need all the herbs of your choice. And last, but certainly not least, your container. You can use any shoe organizer you want that hangs on the wall. We're going with a plastic one today, but they do come in cloth. So, let's get into the project. All right, guys. So, once you have your hanging shoe in place and secure where you're going to leave it, you're going to take your utility knife and you're going to make small holes at the bottom of the plastic. You're going to want to make sure that you put these in in a brick laying pattern. That way it keeps the most strength inside of the plastic.
Another thing, which is why I'm focusing so hard, you want to make sure that you don't cut all the way through the plastic to the backside.
All right, so we have all of our holes punched. I'm ready to take you on to the next stage. This stage is really easy.
We're going to line the bottom of each one of these sections with a little bit of this small gravel.
It's really important to allow the water to drain down so your roots don't get dry rod. So, we're going to do that lining, our soil, our herbs. So, let's get into the soil. All right, guys.
Let's get dirty. So, we're just going to go ahead and scoop in our dirt.
Super easy to do, especially with a spade. It just keeps life so easy. Now, with the dirt, you want to make sure you leave about 3 in from the top. So, it gives you space to put the dirt that comes with the herbs into the pocket.
All right, guys. Now you can top off your soil. This is going to give you a little bit more stability with your plant. This is what it's all about, getting dirty, right? Get your hands in there. Push that soil down.
How beautiful is this? Now, the really cool thing about this is if you have small children, this also becomes an experiment because you can see the roots start to grow down into that small gravel. Just becomes a full experience.
You can eat it. You can see it grow. All right, let's get our next ones in. Now, removing your herbs from your containers can be a little bit tricky because sometimes the roots will grow out of these holes. So, just take your time, be gentle with it, massage the container, and just let it kind of just fall out just like that.
Now, we're going to just squeeze that.
And by squeezing it, it allows the roots to just come alive and realize that they're about to be put in new soil and just opens them up for a better living environment.
When you're placing your herbs into your container garden, you want to think about how they're going to grow. So, you have rosemary at the top, which is going to grow straight up. It'll also come out a little bit, but this is going to be your tallest, so you want it at the top.
Next, you can either put something like parsley or cilantro. Both of those are going to be longer, fuller, so they're more of your fillers. They're going to fill in this gap and just make it look so lush. One plant goes a long way. When you get down to the bottom, it's great to use your shorter plants that don't grow tall, but maybe grow full, but they stay short, like oregano or mint. Mint is a great one, and you definitely want to plant mint by itself. So, let's go ahead and get the rest of the plants in, and I'll be right back. All right, I got everything in. Now to label it because that's very important. I don't know about you, but sometimes I just can't keep up with which herb is what. I made some really simple labels, handwritten. If these are going to be outside, I recommend getting them laminated, but just throw them in there and go.
How gorgeous did this turn out, right? A great way to reuse your shoe organizer.
Not that we don't have enough shoes, but this is the great way to reuse it.
Hopefully, you enjoyed this video and I will see you in the next one. Bye.
Heat.
Heat.
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