This video masterfully demonstrates that high-end luxury is built on a foundation of rigorous civil engineering rather than just aesthetic excess. It provides a rare, technically grounded look at the complex structural integrity required to overcome challenging geological conditions.
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THE $2,000,000 POOL….THIS IS INSANE追加:
This is the craziest pool I've ever built, and the pressure is piling on.
[ __ ] Well, that's a good start. This thing is 35 m wide, 20 m long, massive curved infinity edge to the front. We got a swim up bar, beach entry, full in floor cleaning, the lot. This thing has every single thing you can put in a pool. And if we don't get this stage right, the whole rest of the process is screwed. So this stage is what we call a bulk out stage, which is basically you get all the the major dirt out of here and then we'll come back and do a detail stage where we do the footings and peers and make sure all the slopes and everything are perfect. Then we'll throw all the gravel in. Then we can start doing the boxing and steel. The way I dig is I dig, I see what the ground's like, and then I decide from there how we approach making sure it's it's solid.
So what I did here is I ran a perimeter strip footing around the whole thing. If you look down here, you can see it's into rock. You always want to build pools into rock. It's the most stable form. But over this side, we start getting towards worse ground. So, what I've had to do, I've run the strip footing all the way through the perimeter. Then I've peered it where I had to to rock. So, this will come up and then go down each side and that'll set the pool into into stone. Wherever I can't find good ground, that's where I'll I'll peer or strip footing. If we just leave the the pool on this ground, it's reactive and [ __ ] clay. So the pool will settle one side the other side over a period of time which is what you don't want. You can always get a soil report right which do bore holes. I'll get a ball hole here, here and here. The lay of the land works. You never know until you dig the pool where rock actually is and where you know solid ground actually is. So that's why I always take it as it comes. And like literally between 3 m I've got rock and then I've had to peer.
Technically I could have gone, you know, oh the engineering doesn't show peers here. I won't do it. But that's just stupid cuz over the long term it's going to the pool's going to fail. So, I will always overdo everything cuz I just don't want these things ever moving for 100 years.
So, in this instance where we have overland flow, which basically means water flowing downhill, we have to allow for water to go around that. So, what I always do before I start digging is look at that and then what I've done here is dug trenches around the pool. So, if the water flows in, it'll flow into a trench and then divert around the pool into a silt barrier each side. That way it stops all the water going straight into the pool and then the pool collapsing depending on how big the pool is. If you're not going to be able to knock it out in three, four days. Make sure you got a plan for ground water. Not only ground water, but rain water. At the end of the day, there's nothing nothing you can really do if you're going to get 400 mil of rain, the pool's going to be in trouble. Like I'll put in later. I've got format tube, metal format tube that I'll put in the peers. See, people will put former tube in. It's cardboard.
They'll put it in the pier and go, "Sweet, it's good for rain." No. You know why? cuz when it rains that that cardboard becomes soft and it all collapses and the pier is cooked. I get metal ones. I put them in and no matter how much it rains I can just put a pump in there and pump it out and the pier is still good to go. The only problem with them is they're super expensive. But you can get plastic ones as well, but the best ones I've found are the metal ones which I got them up there.
See that there?
The little timber piece with the string line on it.
>> And then there's one all the way I don't know if you can see it. There's one all the way over that side. But basically, that's what we call a grid line. You get one grid line that's parallel and you can set up the whole pull off that. So, you come off that, get your offsets, and I've got measurements on there to measure back to give me radiuses. Like this one here, I put the radius in.
So, this radius I've set out to the back here, I know I've got 8.6 m to water line. So, if I got to add to that 400 for the back of the wall, cuz I got a 400 thick wall here, plus 50 mil of playroom. So, I'm going to be 9050.
So, that's how I got this one. Hold it there, run the radius, and walk it around. Make sure it's tight.
And that's how I make sure I get the perfect radiuses through here because this isn't just a square pool, right? I need radiuses here, radiuses there, radiuses at the back. So the whole pool's full of radiuses. So I need offset pins all around that I can measure off and do my radiuses to.
So one of the most important parts of this build is the block wall that'll be retaining the whole pool. In order to get this done correctly, first we excavated the whole pool to get rid of all the dirt. Otherwise, it'll be digging down here. It could collapse on us. The pool's basically been dug out now. Now we get to work on the block wall. And what I'm doing now is the footings for the block wall. So basically what that will do is when I have a block wall stand sitting up here, it just supports it like that. When all the pressure is pushing on the back of it, it has something here to hold it up.
The pool itself won't be doing any retaining. The retaining wall and the footing will be doing the retaining and all the hard work. So that's the critical part. Then the pool itself was just like an insitu structure that's separate to the retaining wall, which is the way you want it. So that'll be all done and then we can move on to the pool. And that actually gives me time and space to work and do the pool properly because you don't want to be rushing it trying to get it sprayed.
It's going to be a long project as it is. So I just want to take my time and do it right. And the the width of this footing determines the height you can build that retaining wall. So the wider this is, the higher I can go. Obviously steel gets larger. We're going to have, you know, 16 mil bar here, which is super heavy duty. However, this is a 1200 footing. I could only go 2 m high.
So this one's 2,800 means I can go up to 3 m. Like I didn't have to do this 2,800 footing because I'm not actually going that high, but I do it anyways because you may as well. It's like an extra 400 mil. Yeah, a bit of extra steel, bit of extra concrete, but I I get to sleep at night knowing this thing's solid.
So, this is what we call the ripper.
This here will get under the rock and then that'll rip it out of the ground as opposed to my normal 450 bucket. And then we got over there, most people call a mud bucket. So, they're the three main buckets. Uh, and then we got an a or a rock breaker, which I'll show you another time. This situation I'm in right now when I want to rip rock out of the ground, that doesn't require a jackhammer. If rocks too tight, I'm going to have to get the jackhammer out and go. This is like the last resort before you go, uhoh, I got to jackhammer this thing, which I'm just getting away with right now. This one, what I call the 450 bucket. Everyone has different names for it. Perfect for a strip footing. Majority of engineering strip footings, like this one, is a 450 wide strip footing. This bucket's about, you know, 480. So if you run that through, it's perfect strip footing. So that's what I call this one. Everyone has different names for different things.
That will also rip a lot of rock out and give you detailed excavation. This what we call a mud bucket. So this is when you've bulked it all out and you've got a big pile sitting there. We use the mud bucket to scoop it all up, throw it away, and then you'll run over it really smoothly. You see it's got a nice blade on the front that you'll run all the way through and then that will pick up the majority of the dirt.
This is Doug, my main man.
>> How you going, mate?
>> Doug's the king of getting things done.
At the moment, we're smoothing out this strip footing cuz when the rocks all fall in, you don't want to keep them in there. So, Doug just got in there with the shovel and smoothing it all over and make sure it's a smooth footing for the concrete to sit on solid ground. Um, but we're running into a bit of trouble with this rock here. So, the thing is we're going from a sandstone rock over here, which is more like a deco rock, then we're going into bit of blue rock. As you can see, the color of the of this rock. So, this is more of a blue stone rock. So, it's very hard and rigid. So, once the machine starts getting its claw in there and starts ripping it out, we should be all right once we get back into the sandy stuff, which we was hoping we'll start chasing back over there.
>> But also a very good material to build in. Helps the foundation bind pretty well in this kind of scenario, which we chasing.
>> Yeah, >> just a big challenge. So, yeah, we'll get there. We always do.
>> So, every time we dig, we're always looking for what we call natural ground.
So you'll see here we've got a couple of layers of earth. This from here up is what we call fill, which is means just bad ground. And there's a bit more fill here, a little bit more compacted. But when you start seeing this nice orange or clay color, that means we're into natural ground. So this was all going downhill at one point. Natural ground is also following downhill. You can see the line. So when we get to here, I've run out of good natural ground. So, what I'm going to have to do is peer all through here. And then the pool's going to go sit out all in front of here. So, I'm going to have to dig this out to the point where it's not too far down um to some sort of natural ground and then peer all the way to the front of the pool and the catch pool. That way, the pool's sitting on that good ground with the peers. And then what I'll do is once I've get to the natural ground here, I'll I'll form this all up with with form. And then I'll add a lot of gravel, shitload of gravel, and just use that to shake the pool. That way, it's sitting on the peers in the good ground.
I've showed you the other buckets, but these I'm not using them right now. This is just a 600 bucket, what I call it, 600 bucket, which is kind of like your in between the mud and your 450 to kind of get bigger loads out. And then we got our 250 bucket here, which is even for more detailed excavation, but once again, you're not going to get much volume out of this. So, it's more for like ripping and and the detailed stuff.
And it's got nice teeth on it to rip things up. So, this is called an orga and this is an orga driver. The way it works is you get these two hoses, pressure hoses, hydraulic hoses that you link up to the machine and then that that's what creates your peers. It's just a massive drill. Yeah. It has all the strength to go down a rock. And then I've got rock breakers on the end of this one, which are those little things which not all of them have, but you can add that as an attachment. And that's basically what you use for peers.
There's different sizes of these. Uh but the most common one is this, which is about a 400.
Last week was um pretty much a total write off because we had rain all week.
I think we ended up with about 150 mil here. All up here turned into a little waterfall. As you can see, my strip footing and my peers. So, they're full of water now, which happens. That's inevitable.
You know, you're digging pools. It takes a while. You're going to have water. So, I'll be pumping them out later and I'll show you how we do that and then seeing how they look because once water sits in them for a while, they start to deteriorate.
So, this is a float. This is when you can just throw it into like a large body of water and this will go to the top cuz it floats. And see, when it does that, it turns it on. If you can hear it, it's working, which is good. These normally come, if you get them at the shops, they'll come with like these either like a plastic or hesshin type of pipe. You put it in here. They're just these soft pipes. And what happens is just like a hose. It'll kink and then it'll stop pumping and then you lose pressure. So what I do is I got my own little system which I'll show you where I hook up a gray water pipe. So this part here, it screws into here. Make sure you do this tight, real tight because and face it up like this because that's how it gets the most pressure like that.
But if you have any if it's not tight enough here, it'll leak around here. And then what I do is I get the gray water hose at the end and I I get a clamp and that clamp will allow me to put it on here.
So I'll shove I'll shove it on here nice and tight. It's a bit muddy, but you get the idea. It's not going anywhere. So, now I can suck water. So, next step, I'll pick a pier and drop it in there. But first, I'm going to run my line out. I'm going to run this into a silt barrier to filter the water cuz obviously it's ground water. I'll walk it over.
These are Mary River, which are awesome.
But these we put here in just a little trench just to slow the water down if we get large rain event and also filters the water as it goes through. So I'll put the end of the pump line on that which will filter it slow it down and then into the silt barrier we've got here which will then go slowly down through all the brushes and trees into the dam so we're not affecting the dam's pH levels and you know affecting the wildlife that live in it. Normally, I don't have it with me, but normally you would attach a rope to this because if you hang it by this or this, you'll eventually pull it out. It'll be okay for today. But if you want to keep pump longterm, always tie a rope to so you can lower it in.
I'll drop it in.
Let it go. And see this float now.
So, say I've got dust suppression, which I have to do here. You can actually use this ground water to do that. So when the machine's going over, I can reuse this water, water it down, right, and stop all the dust. Um, but for now, it's been raining so I don't have to do dust suppression. A [ __ ] It's exactly what I didn't want to happen. The peers are full of dirt.
We should have put those metal former tubes in like I talked about. Like I'll put in later. I've got former tube, metal former tube that I'll put in the peers. It's all good. We'll clean it out. But this is what happens when you get rain. It'll all flow in there. All the silt will sit in the bottom and fill up the pier. So, we'll get the or back on when it stops raining, clean them out, and then uh this time I'll listen to my own advice and put them in.
So, we tried our best, but the rain wins as per usual. So, we got to take the machines back up the top so we don't get stuck down here. So, I'm going to do that now. We did get a bit done, but the end of the day, you got to know when to call it quit sometimes.
Majority of the footing got about 5 mters to go is done. Now, as you can see, all the way through here that runs.
Every now and then we got boulders. So, we'll have to jackhammer that out. But that's also a really good thing cuz now we're sitting on solid ground. So, we've basically scraped that. And what we'll do is we'll have to do what we call step the footing. We'll run it through one level, then step it up and run it through another level. So, the blocks can come up cuz otherwise you're going to have to run this thing all the way back and jackhammer and it's not the wisest thing to do. So, that's how we manage that, which you'll see once the boys put the steel in. I got all the boys on site with me. They're going to be starting work pretty shortly stealing all this up. Majority of the excavations done. We'll start doing some peering today. It's the biggest battle so far as one being weather, two this week the rock like cuz as I was ripping it up last week it was coming up pretty easy.
But then once we got I'll show you walk with me once we got more into it. See around here like that was solid rock. So we we've been jackhammering that all week. The problem is once you hit rock, instead of it being a simple dig and throw, what would take normally an hour, it takes four hours. Steel's getting here. We got some custom massive bars coming that I got to get bent up today cuz this this wall needs what we call N24, which is 24 mil bar, which is huge. And we'll have to custom bend them on site. So, you'll see a bit of that next week. Yeah, very happy with how it's turning out so far.
So, today finish off the footing. Got about 5 m to go. Then, we're going to start making these what we call spirals for peers, which is basically the spiral steel. Well, then you run the steel into it and it forms the pier ready to pour.
So, the boys will start stealing that up today. We got a little bit left to do here with excavation, getting the levels right, and then we'll be able to move on to the peering stage, but I don't want to peer it too soon because if we have any rain, they'll all collapse. That's why we get all the spirals ready now, then we peer and have concrete ready to go and get it all done in one hit.
One minute sunny, next minute it's pissing down. So, here we go again.
That's what I was talking about. You never know what's coming here. But I'll talk about this. So these are spirals.
The boys have all run away. Look, everyone's running.
We're allergic to rain. All the boys.
Okay. So these are the spirals I was talking about that go into the peers.
So basically they come pre-made like this. The engineering will show 150 mil apart. So you just go around the seal, mark 150, 150 apart. Basically you'll you'll tie it to those marks and then full length of steel which is a 6 m length. because we don't know the the depth of the pier till we get there. You never do because you're just going to go till you hit rock or solid ground. So, we'll make these in full lengths. We'll lay them all out here ready to go. And then once we get the or out, we'll start peering. And then when we get there, we'll go, "All right, well, that one we'll measure it. It's 2 and 1/2 m. Cut this thing to 2 and 1/2 m. Drop it in, put the steel form tube around it, and it's ready for pour." But I don't want to do those peers until last minute. Say we have a normal pier on a standard pool of good ground. We could just get four Sbar and stick the bars in after it's concreted like that. Boom, boom, boom, boom. But anything over 2 m needs spirals. So, this is called an R six spiral, which is basically just the radius and the the strength of it. Say we have uh some peers that are a meter, whatever. We're going to make spirals anyways. Like, we got it all here. We're going to make them up. It's no point trying to cut corners. Like, just put the spiral in. If you don't use these and you're going over 2 m, you actually run the risk of your peers failing.
So, now we've got a problem not getting steel.
>> We're all hiding from the rain, but the steel we need is really hard to find and we got to have it and they're saying Wednesday. So, we're but we're trying to sort out now. So, I just got off the phone with the steel company. I was meant to have the N24 arrive today, but they missed the order.
And now they're telling me they can't get it here till Wednesday next week, which really messes with my plans to get things done cuz we got Monday off. It's Australia Day, so I've only got 4 day week next week as it is. I was planning to really rip into the steel, but now I can't get to Wednesday and I got concrete booked for the footings the following Monday. So, I've only got 3 days to try and steal up that whole footing. So, it's going to be it's going to be mayhem all hands on deck. This stuff happens all the time. That's why I have my own in-house team of steel fixes. I don't subcontract that cuz say in this scenario like I had someone booked like, "Oh, well, it's not here."
They'll just go to another job. They're like, "All right, I'll be back in 2 weeks." Then the whole job gets pushed back 2 weeks. As opposed to this, I said to the boys, "All right, call it quits today. Go back to the other job with stealing up, go finish that. I'll see you Tuesday and we'll start again." And that really enables me to like pick and choose and and continue flow as opposed to losing days, which we can't afford when you're this busy.
Rains too much, machines are slipping.
It's just dangerous. So, same old story here. We get get some sun, get some work done, then the rain hits. So, this is the jackhammer I've been talking about.
These are the hoses that go in. There's two connect them up. But these hoses are actually armored. So, it's got this coil around it. When you're going up against rock and these hoses get in the way, which inevitably does happen, they can get damaged. Basically, it's just a massive jackhammer. Here's a bit on the end. So, it's just like any other attachment. You just hook it onto the machine.
So, we've essentially finished the first half of the footing. Now, we've got our N24 bars in. We got the droppers in which are N24 as well. Then, we got a layer of mesh on top. We've also got one layer of N bar along the bottom horizontally. So, couple layers here to make sure this footing's strong enough.
But, it's looking really clean and tidy.
And our radius has been measured over and over, which, you know, we had to adjust a couple of times, but it's looking really good. I'm happy with how all the curves are looking and how the boys have come together. You know, we've only had three days to do this because we're waiting on steel. So, it's been a massive push to get to this point. Um, and it's raining again. So, we're just going to keep going. But, we should be able to finish this footing today. It's a mad rush and we're just pushing through the rain. You can see the section of the wall here. We've got some pins in the wall and then some horizontal bars. And we set this into the rock with the horizontal bars to carry our starter bars. We have these sitting up out of where the concrete's going to finish so that we can pull these out later. We set these on the exact line that we want these starter bars to come up right where we want this block work to go. It's much easier to set this one row or this one line of of horizontal steel uh rather than setting each one of these starter bars individually. Like you can imagine that would take that take forever. It take a really long time.
So these are the spirals.
We've made these uh beforehand. So, we'll have these ready to go now. We've basically figured out the total lineal meters of peers we're going to need. We made these all up now. They're sitting here. So, that's good. That's all ready to go. We don't want those peers sitting long at all. You know, one day, 2 days max, we want them sitting with steel and them strong, sitting on solid rock. If you have them collapsing mud sitting on the bottom, then this pier is not actually sitting on solid rock. It's sitting on all that dodgy ground before rock.
So, today is the most important day that we've had this far. We got peers going on over this side. We got the line running to this footing on the other side. I don't know how we're going to go with these peers. We might end up just doing half of them today and leave the half for another day because most important right now is this footing. We got rain in the forecast in a couple of hours. So, we really got to try and push this thing out. It's a 90 m run all the way down here down the hill. So, this is not your run-of-the-mill concrete line pump. It's a massive run, so we run the risk of blockages. So, what we'll be doing is running a slurry mix down first, pumping that into the footing.
The footings have ground water in them now. So the boys are busy pumping the water out, getting it all ready to go.
So this is why I always give myself a little bit of time before concrete arrives because there's always little things to tidy up. So we'll pump this out. We'll get the boards in and the heights for the footings. Then we'll start running a slurry line here to make sure there's no blockages. Then we'll get real concrete in here and off we go.
All right, so we're successfully pumping, which is really good result. A little bit scary for a moment there because we had a blockage at the very top, but we managed to get rid of it with the boys and tie it up to the to a pole to keep it sturdy cuz what was happening is the line was going down the hill which caused a blockage. We're pumping now. Concrete's coming out nice and easy. It's looking really good. So happy to get it underway. And now we just got to keep going. As you can see, when this pump pushes, every time it jolt, that's when it goes through the new line and the pressure builds up. So, what we have to do is actually got these ratchet straps back to the hole and one to the truck to stop this thing actually looking downhill and stretching the pipe so much that it could break or tear. So, we got two ceramic lines here, but then it goes the top one is actually rubber.
So, if you imagine that keeps going too far, it'll eventually rip it and it's it's dangerous. But because we got all this weight downhill, we've had to strap it back each side. So, it's something that you always have to consider when you're concreting and doing a long line pump, especially downhill, is how you set up at the top and then how you manage the pressure and all the weight that will be down the hill.
So, we've got the first bit of the footing in now, which has gone well.
We've laser leveled this the whole way.
The way we do that is we set up the level prior, then we'll get it on the laser and we'll go around with the stick. Then, they'll take their level around that. This concrete is what we call 32 MPa. MPA is just a way they measure concrete strength. So, it was actually specked at 25 MPa, but I just went for 32. It's a little bit extra, but it's a lot stronger. And with a footing this big, it's not a big deal.
Just do the extra concrete. It's all going well so far. We've already got 21 cube here. We're estimating about 50.
So, it looks like we're going to go a fair bit more than that. Probably around 70 or 80. And then we got peers at the same time. So, we'll see how we go.
>> Right guys, as you can see, we know onto the peers for the pool and for the wall that be forming up here. So we drill in with a big or a big 450 or that's when we install the form tubes and we drop the steel and that's all on pages. We drop it in for strength. We go down to about 2 and 1/2 mters in the bad areas.
When we hit when we hit a bit of rock or terapirma we pull up and then we start getting all this area ready. So when we do the pull this all sits on decent ground as well as our peers that are invertedly placed here for strength of the deep end of the pool going on over to the spillway. So you can see I'm going to be doing probably going to do about 50 of these in the bottom end of the pool here just to make it really strong and beefy. So when we do the final install and pump, she's uh going to be holding up pretty good. We're nearly done with the footing now, which is really good result. The rain's coming in, but we've had enough time to get the footing done. There's about two truckloads to come. The boys have been busy here peering all the peers. Now we're putting all the steel in with the former tube and going to leave them sticking up so we can bend them into the pool later. We'll be able to move on to these next. We're not going to finish all the peers today, but it's actually going to be a really good effort to get as many done as we are. So, really happy with the progress today. And once these are in, they're set. I'm not going to have to worry about the rain. And then we'll come back later and finish off the other ones when we're finishing off shaping the pool. And we'll keep charging.
A tip for doing peers with these spirals is as the concrete is poured in, you just grab a hold of that spiral and just lift it up and down. It's going to vibrate the concrete quite well. And then as the last thing that you do is you just lift that up, get the steel off the floor so you've got the required cover. So you don't have to worry about packing it up or sharing it up. And just easy to go. You can bang them out one after the other. It's quick.
We've managed to get the footing completed. We had rain all yesterday. So it's actually a good thing in this scenario we got in before the rain because an Australian standard for all concrete is you need to have a wetting curing period after it. So, normally it's about 7 days of watering down concrete to make sure you get no shrinkage cracks and the the concrete cures properly. It's not like a sand that hardens. It's actually a chemical reaction that that occurs and water helps that curing process go slower cuz the faster it goes, the more brittle the concrete can become. The good thing is we got this footing in before rain like we had planned just uh which is the same old story here. But that's why we keep pushing and make sure we meet dates because if that had pushed and we had rain and we had to push the whole footing back, then we get pushed back a week, then my blocks that I have getting delivered today that we're doing right now would have had to been pushed back and then the whole program gets pushed.
That's why it's really important to have, you know, a team that really wants to push with you, which the boys have done and I'm super super proud of them because they were massive, massive days that we've had. They really stood the test. We're getting the blocks down now.
The hill is the biggest logistical challenge we have here. So, we've actually got a super large posy track. A poszy track is basically what they call, you know, in America a skid steer or or bobcat. And this one has fork attachments like a forklift. So, you have the tracks and then you have the forks that will go into the crates on the blocks. That way, we can go there, reverse down the driveway, reverse down the hill, and actually get these pallets down to where they need to be. Like everything with this job, the logistical side of it is the hardest part. We're getting through it now. The blocks are down here and we're actually going to hopefully start laying blocks today. The block layers are here. So, we'll go through a setout soon and then, you know, we can start laying blocks, which is a really good result. It's probably going to take, you know, a week, 2 weeks for these blocks to be laid. There's a bit of detail to them. Come this time next week, you'll be able to see this block wall really starting to form.
So, you'll notice now 90% of these peers are in and we got all these bars sticking out of them. We have the cages which you've seen that we we slot into the peers, but these are then slotted into the pier with what we call a cog or basically an insert into the peers that we tie into the pool. The engineering says these bars end bars need to go 600 into concrete and then 600 out of the shell. But you can see we've left a lot longer than that. But that's to provide us enough room to move. We can always cut these and move them. The peers now are all at height. You'll see a couple of former tubes still standing up in the air. We're just yet to cut them. When we get to the pool, we'll cut them all to height, flush. But what we'll do is we'll get these, we'll get a bender and and we'll bend them like this into the pool shell. Once these are bend, they come up and out into the pool shell.
We'll run steel over the top of them.
And that's how you actually distribute the weight. So, we go like this. Two this way, then two this way, like that. Once they're obviously bent at perfect right angles, you'll have the steel running across that longitudinally and horizontally. So that's how you actually distribute the weight of the pool onto the peers. Without these, you know, you're just sitting on nothing. There's no way to actually distribute the weight into the pool. That's why these are really important yet again. So these caps are safety caps cuz these can impale people. We always make sure we go around and put these caps on. Even if we run out, we use bottles, which is an old school method. Those bottles are just temporary. So once we get them out, I'll always replace them with these caps just to keep everyone safe on site.
Another massive hectic week. Logistically, once again, it's mayhem, but controlled mayhem. So, we're getting through that.
We're starting the boxing behind us.
We've got our first core fill of the blocks today. We still had to do, you know, the final details of this area.
So, we've been excavating that over the couple last couple of days, which has taken a little bit longer than expected, but that's the way this goes. Uh, so this area now is is pretty much ready to fully box up. Then we run into the big time boxing up the whole front. And what I mean by boxing up is putting the walls up that you spray concrete to, which is called formwork. So I'll show you what formwork is.
This is what we call formwork. So starting from here is called edgeboard, right? Normally edgeboard is straight, but for this job, the whole pool's curved. So this is a special plastic edge board that we we buy and you can curve it. So you'll notice that that's curved here. curving around. We'll drop our what we call shutters down here to spray concrete against. That way when we strip it, we have a smooth finish here, not blown out concrete everywhere because we are still doing a footing here to run the rest of the block wall back. The reason I haven't done this block wall and footing now is because if I was to put it all in and then spray this against it, it would be a problem.
So, I'll put the pool in first and then I'll I'll excavate all this and then I'll put the steel in in the block wall because I've also got to get all my pool pipes out here. So, I'm going to have a lot of pool pipes coming through here and my plant room's going to be back there. So, I'm going to have to get all these pipes out of the pool and then under the dirt and ready to put into the footing. So, if I was to put the footing in first, I'll be trying to chip into concrete, figuring out where pipes go.
So, it's a lot better to get the pipes in first and put them where you want, then form around them. So, that's what's going on currently. We're moving relatively well. I'm going to have to get some more reinforcements in to keep things moving because we're on a pretty tight schedule here. This week, we got, as I said, we got a lot of rain coming.
So, we've actually waterproof this block work. This is just a standard waterproofing that you use for block work. If you ever seen block work before, it's always this black paint. So that's the waterproofing we've put on.
And then we're getting ready for this rain. So we're going to core fill this now, which will go to this height. But the block walls still going to go higher than this. But it'll go into We got the 300s there done here. It'll go into the 200s and up. But the reason we do this is if you're going to do a block wall that high and all in one pour, you'll actually get voids and gaps within.
Imagine just pouring concrete in in a massive drop. It's actually you're not going to get all the way down. You're inevitably going to have gaps and voids, which is not what you want for a block wall. So, the way the concrete will go, it just it'll just drop in. Like, yes, it'll be wet, but you can get vibrators in, but only so far. Um, and a vibrator is basically this big big thing that you you put in there and it vibrates the concrete to settle it. Like, yeah, they're blocks, but they're not insanely sturdy, right? Until they're concreted.
That's the whole point of them. So, if we were just to go all the way to height and then put all the concrete in, that's a lot of weight that could be pushing on that wall, which could cause a collapse.
So, the way we do this is we we separate it into two separate paws. So this one we're going in today. We'll let that cure and then we'll move on to the next courses of blocks to the top. That way we can be assured that these are strong.
We get this all inspected. Get our starter bars up for the next one. Now what we've put in here is what we call, if you can see down here, an a line.
Now a line means agricultural line. Once we back fill this, we'll put some gravel in behind that. And then when the water sits behind this wall, which inevitably will as it flows down the bank, that allows it to escape. So, if you follow that through there, you'll see it actually takes it all the way out and then it'll filter into the dam. So, we've actually had to dig this under the pool because you can't have that line sitting above the pool obviously. So, cuz it won't drain. So, that's been done prior and that's you got to think about those things because if we put the pool in, there'll be no way to get this through. We got one here. We'll put another one, you know, about 600 up and another one up around here. If we get a significant rain event, as that water fills up, each line will then be able to dissipate the water as opposed to just one at the bottom which won't be able to handle the pressure. But see how it's got like it's got like a sock around it.
So once you put gravel around that, it allows the water to filter through it without getting dirt and sand and things in there to get it stuck. And the reason we put gravel around it is we put drainage gravel or 20 mil gravel because we don't want uh that to get crushed. So the water will filter its way through the gravel and rocks and then clean itself till it gets to that you know a line agricultural line and then take all the water and take it away. So that's the whole thought mechanism behind them.
Every block wall will have an a line.
Normally it's just one. As I said we have to get this done by a hydraulic engineer. So we've got a design where we have multiple.
So these are what we call expansion joints or control joints in block work.
Now the reason we need these is as temperature and you know conditions change these block walls inevitably will move. So if you just ran this whole thing and didn't have a single expansion joint you run the risk of this cracking and causing stress fractures. So what everyone does is actually put control joints or expansion joints in between blocks which are little gaps that actually separate the block walls to allow for movement or any heat and contraction expansion. So the Australian standards actually say you need maximum you can go is 6 m between these expansion joints. But the way I do it is say I have a this one I've got a curve starting here. I'll run an expansion joint. But the curve ending over there I'll run another one. And then if I got straight walls I'll just go every 4 and 1/2 m to play it safe. So general rule of thumb run an expansion joint or control joint every 4 and 1/2 m and that'll keep you safe. If you don't do it you run the risk of the wall failing.
So this is the back half of the pool and the curved infinity edge. We're digging out the rest of it now. We've had to keep this. So we've had access in and out, you know, ramps. But now we're at the final stages where we can bulk the rest of this out. Then we can start forming it up. We'll have a few more peers to go in here. So we'll do that while we're forming up the rest of it.
And kind of we're just going to work our way slowly from that side of the pool back to this side of the pool. We'll have to leave this side open at at the front of the pool because we're still going to have to get machinery in here for gravel, machinery in here to put steel in. So, we'll leave an opening just to get in and out. Put all the steel in, then close it up at the very end. We're trying to try drive those timber piles in basically that we need to put them in the ground to form our our catch pull off. But what we're running into here is the reason we actually shorten this pool is because it's all that soft mud. So, we're pushing them in and they're going all the way in and actually not going to brace us. Then, if we move them forward, which we've done, we're running into rock and boulders. So, that's also another thing we got to try and get past. So, we will sort that as we go.
There'll be a solution there uh where we can get around it, which will be steel, a mixture of steel and those. Um, and we'll we'll probably mock up a little thing to drive it in. However, that's a challenge that we're facing and being such a massive weir wall here, you know, and so much pressure is going to be on it because you have that you have that we wall coming through here, then you're going to have a whole catch pull coming in front of that. So, you've actually got to brace not only the catch pool, but the we wall on top of that. So, it's double bracing. So, you can imagine it has to be super super strong cuz you can't have that moving at all. And we want to make sure when we do it, we do it right. So, there's a bit of brainstorming to be done there, but we'll rip into that in the next couple of days. I'm a little bit old school.
when it comes to plans and I like to print them all out. So what I do is I'll get the whole engineering plans which is a lot and I'll laminate them and then I'll leave these on site permanently for the boys. The good thing about that is these can go through dirt, rain, anything. Every big job like this I love to be old school, get everything printed out, leave it all on site. Otherwise people on their phone zooming in, you know, you just potential to make mistakes are a lot larger. This cost me a hundred bucks but it could save me hundreds of thousands. What do we got? I like to carry a few different bits with me cuz we're usually a decent distance from the toolbox. So, if I snap bits or one wears out, I've got some spares. And also, occasionally people use different types of screws. So, I just keep some spares of what are commonly used screws so I can change things. Trusty sunscreen, of course, in in summer. Uh there's a couple things missing which I don't need, but I just got my nips.
We're not doing any steel tying today, but they're just a handy tool to have.
What else have I got? Oh, yeah. I have a tool pouch on the back. The drill just carries anything. And then general pouch, which yeah, that just carries so much stuff. Everything I need is in there.
And I don't need my tie rail today. And carrying it on the belt is a little bit heavy, but I just can't bother taking it off. So, that can stay on there. Oh, camper. Yeah, I got this the other week.
Just being able to fill up like 3 L of water and have it with me and sip it through the day. It's been about 34° 35° which is pretty common for Queensland summer but just being able to take a sip of water whenever I want. I stay so much fresher during the day and throw some hydrolyte in it as well and it's it's bloody brilliant. I don't know if I go back to not using one.
So to actually drive the formwork timbers in, we have this custom made.
It's just a little attachment for the rock hammer. So that goes on top and then it just goes to drive it in because you need, you know, a lot of force to get them in.
There's also a handheld one, but we had this custom made and welded it together ourselves to drive the post in. So, I'll show you them when we get down there.
But, makes life a lot easier when you have a machine on site to do those things.
So, it's been a big couple of days.
We've managed to core fill the block wall. So, that's all done. Um, we'll leave that now. I'll let it cure before we put the rest of the height of the block wall. We got massive rain and weather coming in. So, we've had to call it quits, which is a shame, but that's the way this job goes. As you know, if you've been watching, really happy with, you know, the progress we have done this week. You can really see the pool taking shape. Managed to get gravel down here and start putting it down.
So, this basically just forms a base layer for the pool. You notice we can walk on this even when it's muddy. But this is called 5 mil drainage gravel.
It's called 5 mil because these these are 5 mil. And then we have over here 20 mil. It's called 20 mil cuz it's 20 mil. But two different types of gravel, which you won't normally see, but I like to do it a little bit differently with I put the 5 mil down first because I've got full in flooror cleaning in here. So I'll be laying pipes all through this.
So that'll give it a nice, you know, bed for it to lay on cuz these are a lot sharper. you can actually potentially damage the pipes. So, I put this down first, then I'll run all my pipes in, then I'll put this over the top. Most pools will go 20 mil underneath them because it actually gives, you know, if there is ground water beneath the pool cuz it's somewhere to drain. But the general idea about gravel is just to give the pool a base to, you know, to stand on before you put steel on then concrete. Uh, so we still got a lot more gravel to come in here. So, I've got the base in, which is good because we're going from the deep end here. will be ramping up to about 1500. So 1.5 mters.
That's not actually my wall. That's my we wall. So catch pool, the thing the water flows into. We don't form this one up until we get steel in. So what we'll be doing next is putting all this in.
We'll we'll run a board along here to put the gravel up to. So we can form this up to here where it needs to be.
And then that'll form this side. And then we'll run the steel up and over.
And then after that, we can run boards to spray against.
So you can see along the whole back here what we're working with. Like we're, you know, 2 m out of ground at our highest point there. So to brace this thing is a massive effort. That's why we got the machine with a special attachment to drive these in. So if you notice these, they're solid as you know. These are these are probably 1500 2 m into the ground. We drive them all the way in to make sure this wall is solid because we're going to be spraying concrete all against this wall and then forming back off this as well. So, this is the most important wall. And that's why here, see, cuz we're leading into a dam, the ground gets a lot softer. So, we actually had to make this shorter in order to actually be able to brace back here. Because if we went right up to that dam, how are we going to brace back? Yeah, we managed to punch this out really well. I was really happy with how the boys brought this together. We initially put these ones in to get our radiuses and then we run our our curve form along that to give us the horizontal bracing. And then we went out our sheet ply which is nonstructural ply on top of that. And that non-structural ply is purely just to have something to spray against. It's not a it's not like a structural component and it'll give it a nice smooth finish on the end. See the finish here with pool concrete's never going to be perfect. It never is because you spray pool concrete. So, it gives you a bit of what we call honeycombing, which leaves little gaps. It'll give it a nice enough finish that you can come render it or tile it, whatever you want to do, because you're not going to leave it bare concrete anyways. As this is such a steep drop off, we do have the risk of erosion over time. Obviously, the pool's going to be fine. It's sitting on peers and that's why we peer it cuz it's going to be braced independently. It's not relying on this ground to stay in its structure. So, what we'll do is we'll spray the pool, then we remove all this formwork, strip it, get rid of it. Then we'll come here and we'll we'll bench it, plant it out to stop erosion. So that's another important factor because we don't want to leave this say the pool's done and go oh it'll be right because this will all wash away. Um then you'll start seeing the underside of the pool and you don't want that. So that's another step that we'll do later down the track. The problem with this pool build is like I've got so many other pool builds coming up. So I've only got I've only got a specific period of time to try and get this done. Really happy with like how everyone's come together. Like the teamwork here has been awesome. Like no one's complaining. Just getting it done.
Something of this scale like to get to this point normally. I don't know.
You're looking at like at least 3 months and we're here in like week five, six.
I'm not trying to exaggerate there.
That's just how these things would normally work. Yeah. I think honestly I think that's what helps me with this job is everyone's stoked to be here. Like it's a cool It's not every day you get to do a pool like this. So the added benefit I have here that helps me is everyone goes, "Oh, this is a cool job.
I want to get in and crack on." the the coolness factor helps get things done at the same time. So, that really is a good thing. Plus, um you know, I guess now they know people are watching it and you know, the work that they do probably doesn't get appreciated ever. They're the ones doing the steel, you know, they're the ones doing the formwork. So, for their work to be showcased is awesome, you know, cuz it don't think it really ever does. Like, when you talk about pool building and trades, they kind of just go to work and get it done and don't complain. So, it's good for them to have recognition for their work.
So, we've actually had pretty rough week here. We've had torrential rain last weekend into Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday.
So, we've only had about two days on site. Despite that, we we've got a bit done. However, it's really pushed back the timeline. So, that's the way construction goes sometimes. Not going to try and pretend punching things out when it's not possible. That being said, we're still moving. Now, we've got this footing going in, which we've formed up here. that'll be forming the footing for these columns that'll come up to support the podium slab here. The canal lever slab that will have the waterfall coming over it. And then we've got gravel all in here now to form up the height of the the shell here. Bars over there. We'll spread all this gravel out, get it all level. Then we can start putting steel in here. So that's good. Um we'll rip into that next week. We still got to get the in flooror cleaning into this section and all of that section which we're hoping to do this week. We didn't get done. So that'll be next week. Now, we we'll be able to pull back some time next week with some good weather, but you know, that's just way these things go sometimes. The pool held up all right. Luckily, we got this block wall in before the rain like we we wanted to cuz we didn't want that bank coming down and washing everything into the pool.
However, it was still pretty much a waterfall coming through all here. See, you can still see it's all still sloppier.
Uh so, it was like that everywhere. Oh, yep. Okay. With all that rain that came through now, we've had some collapses behind this block wall, which is not ideal because we still wanted to put geoab gravel and get all our a lines in and then back fill, which we didn't get time to do before the rain. So, that's the reality of this. I'm not going to sugar coat it. So, that's something we're going to have to deal with later.
Later on, we'll come back with a machine, dig all that out, and then dig behind and redo it all. But, for now, it's it's okay. That's something that now is going to take a lot of time to fix as opposed if we could have got that in before the rain, you know, it' all be done. back field will be laughing, but that's the way this goes. When you're fighting weather like we are, I' i've definitely given us enough time to get ready for concrete. If anything, I always give myself a little bit of extra leeway with that cuz firstly, with concrete, you got to book it in like, you know, 6 weeks in advance cuz the good trades are booked out for that long. Secondly, you know, with with this type of job, I'm always anticipating things pushing back. I give myself a week or two weeks of leeway. That being said, we're still going to make concrete uh if we don't get another major rain event. Honestly wanted to get a lot more done this week. This is core flute. So we put this against the block wall to give us some separation when we're spraying the pool against it. Anytime you're spraying a pool against a block wall, you always have core flute against it. On a high-rise pool, we actually use like a a foam which is like a 50 mil foam which allows for, you know, structural movement on a on a high-rise cuz you're on top of a building.
However, here you can just get away with core flute. So the core flute in itself acts as a bond breaker between the block wall, retaining wall, and the pool structure. Because if we spray this directly on, then these these two structures could both move as one. This will actually separate the bond between the two. So that's why it's called a bond breaker. Uh so we'll spray the concrete right onto this core flute. And that way the pool and the retaining wall are separate structures and if one moves, it won't interrupt the other. So this goes deep down.
So basically this is a a big hole that you put in the center of a pool that every pool will have in ground. And what it's called is a main drain. So basically this is the the lowest point of the pool which you'll put your hydrostatic valve. And a hydrostatic valve is just a little a plug that will allow water to come up through the pool shell if there is water pressure beneath it. So every pool will have a main drain dug and then we'll put our um where is it in this case?
So we got in flooror cleaning.
So it's a little bit different for this one. They're normally a lot smaller, but this is what you'll put in here and that'll sit it at concrete height. We'll set that to height and then we'll run that back to the pump and filter. But this particular in flooror cleaning actually sucks from it cuz basically the heads are designed to push it all through to here and then it sucks through here and goes back to the pump and filter. And that's how the pool will self clean. Say we empty the pool, we got to clean it and you have a lot of ground water. If you don't have a hydrostatic valve in the pool, what will happen is all that pressure will build up below the pool and actually pop the pool out of the ground. So what what it allows it to happen is as that water pressure is coming up under the pool, it's got a point to release and comes up into the pool and then fills the pool instead. So wherever the ground water is sitting is where it will sit in the pool. Every pool in at least Australia will have a hydrostatic valve. The only time you don't really need one is if you're on a rooftop pool, which we do all the time, because you've got no ground water, you know, coming up and and putting it. But we still put a main drain in a rooftop pool purely to have somewhere to pump the pool out from a low point. Um, but I'll go in here. So, the catch pool now, you can see it's pretty much coming together. So, we're going to have not only do we have in flooror cleaning in the pool, we got in flooror cleaning in the catch pool.
That's what we call a safety suction here cuz they're sucking from there, right? What's happened in the past is if kids swim down the pool, they can actually get stuck to this. If this gets blocked, right, which inevitably can happen, say someone's sitting on it, it will then suck from there. It transfers it. And there's actually laws behind how far apart you can have those safety suctions cuz you can't be blocking both at once. And then that main drains that we normally use, they don't suck. The old ones used to actually suck from the bottom of the pool. The new ones don't.
However, with the inflow cleaning, it's designed to suck from the bottom. So, it's really important you put the safety suctions in. So, we've put our first layer of mesh in on the catchpool wool now, which is just the first layer.
Then, we'll come and steel up onto that.
But, you can see it's starting to come together. So, we'll be spraying all the concrete onto this. But, we still have to steal up this whole catch pool in itself. So, we kind of see it as two separate entities. This is a catch pool and that's the pool. And then we got the spa. So, technically three different pools in itself. They all have their own in flooror cleaning system. When you have a pool of this level and we got a, you know, exposed wall here that's supporting itself, you can't just put one layer of steel in. You're going to have mesh and then steel. What we call it is double layer steel. So, when we have a normal pool, it'll actually just be normal bars and come up. But then, say we've got a outer ground wall, which is what this is, it'll always be double layer steel. So, this will be one layer of mesh and then steel will be coming up over the top and it gives it that extra strength that it needs. So last time when the the dam was lower because we hadn't had that torrential rain, I was talking about how it was important to get these in while we could. You can see now where we've placed these, it's nearly at the water level. So that's why when we decided to stop the pool where we did, it was for a reason because say we we pushed this forward and then we were bracing out there, this would all be going down. So we made the right move there and now even when the dam's at capacity, we're still solid here. That could have been catastrophic. But this is why I always go through and check everything after a big rain event or you know just in general just do checks.
What's happened here is I'm not sure how to be honest, but these screws have actually completely sheared off. So you can see they're still through the other side here and here, but they've actually been totally shut off. Someone's either stood on this, I don't know, a kangaroo might have run into it. Who knows? But that's why you always go through and check things over and over over again, especially after big events like the rain event we've had. Say I leave this with and I didn't find it. You know this this whole wall could collapse when we're spraying concrete. So that's the reality of these things and that's why you got to go through and don't just assume you put it in when you put it in it was all good. If you didn't find this, it could compromise the whole pool. We'll fix this up. Make sure put an extra couple of screws in so it doesn't happen again. But super happy I found it now, not later. Big rain events are super stressful if I'm being honest.
But as a builder, I've learned to like when rain comes I'm like, "Oh no." You know, you just start running through all the jobs in your head. you got what we call open, you know, like open holes.
So, when I saw this mass rain event coming here, I was like, "Oh, no." But all in all, like, you know, we've got the block wall. We'll dig out the footings again. It's delayed us a bit.
It's not the end of the world. We'll still push on here. Yes, rain happens, but that's part of being a builder. You know, sometimes it's it's one step forward and two steps back. Oh, I would have been screwed if we didn't if we didn't like we didn't hustle get that block wall in and say we still just had the steel and we had all that dirt rushing into all the steel. It'd be like honestly so bad. Like before we concreted that, right, it was all just steel there. So if you imagine, we have all that rain, mud, and dirt sitting on that steel. You'd have to rip all the steel out, dig it out again, put all the steel back in. Yes, they were a big couple of weeks, but it would have saved me, you know, 50, 60 grand worth of damages. But that's why like when I talk about the importance of having a team that like wants to punch through and get things done, that's why it's so important because if everyone just relaxed when it came to that footing and we didn't get in, we didn't get the blocks in, I wouldn't even be doing this video. So, it's so so important to have a good team and then, you know, week like this week, we could afford to say, "All right, well, we've been rained out.
Let's actually take the time and do things right, get them back into place because we put the structure in place to hold this thing together."
So, what we're doing now is we're digging in the pipe that's got to exit the pool for the main drain of the in floor cleaning. So, that's going to run from the spa out through the trench we just dug for it, then exit the pool out there and up towards the plant room. So, we do this by hand after we get the gravel in to make sure that we're going to get a nice tight compact fit around it. So, we'll open this up, lay the pipe, then back fill the gravel. So, that's going to be 100 mil pipe exiting the pool with the in floor cleaning.
What we do is we reduce it. So by reducing it just goes from a 100 mil part into an 80 mil part. That gives it more head pressure. And when I mean head pressure, it means just more water pressure. So the smaller pipe, the more pressure you're going to have from a pump and filter. And then by the time we get back to the pump and filter roof, reduce it back to 50 mil. So the most common pool pipe is this. This is 50 mil, which is what all pipe is run with.
And you'll see here, see that?
That's PN12. That's actually the class of pool pipe. When you're talking about in cleaning, it can't be run in anything less than a PN12. Pool plumbing, we normally have what we call uh class 9 pipe. So, this is the one above and basically just means the thickness and strength. But with all commercial pools we do, I only order class 12. Once again, the small incremental increase for more satisfaction. Yes, a little cost a little bit more. Can't afford crack pipes and pools. You get a leak pool, you got to rip up the whole pool.
So, okay. So that was Craig uh from Paramount Impore Cleaning. So that's the selfcleing system that's integrated throughout this whole pool. So this is a system developed in America. It's quite old now, probably 20, 25 years ago. But it's the most comprehensive system when it comes to self-cleaning pools. Pool of this size, it's not something you can really just throw creepy crawly in and go sweet. It'll be fine. Um you're going to want to put self cleaning heads in, which basically we're going to put in the pool floor. they'll pop up and once we install them later, you'll see how they work. We just had Craig out here to make sure we're all on the same page because even though we got plans here, we want to make sure that everything we're doing is, you know, compliant. And that's why it's really important to have those relationships with, you know, good suppliers who care about the end product. If we decide on those things together, we're going to have warranty.
You know, if we made those changes and didn't follow the plans, then they might come back later and say, "Well, you made the change, you didn't follow the plans." So, we gone through that now. We put skimmers where we need to for them to, you know, not only look good, but get the suction requirements that we need for the in floor cleaning. That's what we've drawn on there, the skimmers.
One, two, three, four. The reason we put them all along here is because we don't want them here or here or here or here.
Cuz when you're looking back, once again, you don't want the ugly skimmer mouse facing back at you. So, we hide them all in here. Two on the path and two on each side. Keep it even. Then, we'll have a skimmer on the catch pull here. and then an auto top up on the other side there which will also be hidden. They're what we call super skimmers which have two ports and we'll be able to link them into the in floor cleaning to give them the pressure and suction they need. So that's one thing that's not really shown on the plan. So we made sure we ran over that as well and got them all in the right place. So now we can put them in before the steel.
These are zed bars. They're called zed bars cuz they look like a zed. But basically use them to run in footings and trenches to give it extra strength.
Then you tie into that. So, this machine, you notice that's got a spinning blade. Now, when you go, whether you make contact with the steel, it's going to want to push that against that guard. That's what that's there for. This blade's pretty blunt, so it'll be easy to cut. Well, in some sense, it'll be easy to cut. It won't grab and jam as much. And all you need to do is first of all, you make contact with the side of that guard before it makes contact with the blade. And then you can bring that in until it makes contact with the steel. When it's sharp, it can grab and also just jar off the steel.
But because it's blunt, it's gonna be pretty smooth. And bring that in.
So this is that Z bar I was talking about before. This is how it looks when it's finished. So you got the N bar, three bars, three bars, and basically that just forms what we call trench mesh. So the Z bar just holds it in between. Now we'll run that here on top of the peers. So, we'll fill these peers first. Um, we'll have the steel in here.
Then, we'll concrete to this height, which is basically the the base of the the pool slab. Then, we'll concrete on top of that with the actual pool concrete. With this section, it's always wet. So, we're just going to have to pump it out, dig it out again. And that'll be tomorrow as well, like right before concrete. We'll dig it all out.
Then, once we got concrete in, we'll be fine. We'll be able to leave this section finally. We're now completing the rest of the dig, which is really good news. We got peers here coming up into the the beach entry. When we talk about beach entry, it it literally means beach entry. So, you'll be able to walk here and slowly descend into the pool and drop off into a step, which then go into the pool. So, we've got the the peers in there. We're not going to form a tube them today cuz we've actually got uh concrete tomorrow. There's no need.
Uh we've run a strip footing through the side like we've done over the other side. Once we get these peers in, we'll bring the rest of the gravel in. Over the next 3 or 4 days, it'll start to come together even more. We've got these peers all done in the footing. There's 1 2 3 4 5 six we've done just yesterday.
We'll run this strip footing all the way back through to the beach entry.
There'll be a couple more there and a couple more here. But this side's all sorted cuz the pool's actually going to be sitting on the footing. So, we'll just form that up there and obviously we'll be sitting on that. So, we're all good. Same as the other side. Strip footing is so we can get to good ground.
Once again, wasn't on the engineering, but I do it anyways because it's not hard just to dig a trench here. I could just peer this with no footing, but it actually does what we call capping. So you run the peers up, bend the bars over into a footing, and that that forms like a capping beam, which is super strong.
So that means not only is the the strip footing sitting on better ground, means the peers will be stronger, and the whole foundation of the pool will be stronger. A pool this big, you want it all to be what we call keyed into the ground really strongly. So that's why I just run strip footings everywhere. More concrete, more steel, but pool's going to last a lot longer.
It's mayhem at the moment. We got all the steel in. We're concreting the pumps at the top. All the rest of the peers are being poured. Throwing in the starter bars for the peers that are in and freshly concreted. Getting the footing steel in up there as we speak.
But this footing here with the peers and that side have finally been poured.
We've left a little bit of room to get all our pipes under. That's why we've lifted that up about 150. We got the footing for my suspended slab that will be coming up here and the foot path. So, that's been done now. All the steel's in there. Once again, ground water was an issue there. So, good to get this concrete today when it's beautiful, hot, sunny day. So, that's the final end of the pool now. So, we're pouring that footing just as we freshly sealed and freshly done those peers. That's also a really good result getting that done straight away. Absolute mayhem. I won't >> um trying to get everything sorted, but basically holding the cages in place so they're not moving and getting that coverage we need. But it's all systems go here cuz once concrete's in, you just got to go go go.
I do.
>> Careful, bro.
>> It's all good, Sam. Don't rush, bro.
We'll be right. It always is.
>> You need to just got to keep pushing.
I got steel sitting here. The concrete was only just here. So, I've had to bring it up a bit cuz we want coverage on top. See now as right here. See, I got that much coverage on the steel.
That's what you want. More coverage the better cuz if you have too little coverage, you'll leave steel exposed.
The rust will expand, pop concrete out and degrade over time. That's good.
We did it.
Good result. Really good. That was a massive push.
Little bit too much, which is fine.
We'll just pump it to the front of the catch pull and use it as a base slab for it. Binding slab, it's called.
We got a bit of clear weather now. So, we're doing as much as we can, but there's a cyclone predicted this weekend. So, what's new here? We're fighting the rain, but we got no choice but to keep going now. So, I've got tarps on the ready. If it comes to that, we'll be putting up tarps and fighting the rain. We got to keep going. Sammy and the boys have put in all the in flooror cleaning now. So, you can see all the pipes that sticking out of the pool. We got this side to do with couple more info pipes, but we don't want to walk over and break them. Then the back end over there. It's a home stretch, but at the same time, we still got a long way to go.
>> So, these will just stick up in the pool shell. We'll steal all around them, and then once the shell goes in, we cut them to height, and then we put the inserts in that come up and pop up. So, we've run this all back here. We're connecting it all up now. Then, we'll run them all out and over on that deck there before we put the steel in. The in floor cleaning side of things is something so technical. It takes so long to get right and make sure it's all perfect. Now the main floor is in, we can rip into steel, which is really good. The plan is to work our way backwards from that side to this side. We'll get the spa going hopefully today, maybe tomorrow. It'll it'll start really coming together and taking shape now. So, I talked about these peers before, how we're going to bend them over and then that's why we put them in the way we do. And now you can see how it comes together. So, these will actually be supporting the whole bottom cage of the pool floor and the pool itself.
I've been talking about this for a while. I'm probably more excited than most people about it. Probably you probably probably don't care, but basically this is a really cool machine that we feed the steel through. So steel comes through like this and then you actually set the radius based on where this is. End bar was just getting too hard to bend perfectly by hand. So for for example, the spar you we'll be able to run this through and get a perfect radius every single time, which means that spar is going to be millimeter perfect, which is awesome. You just can't do that by hand. There's just no way. It's like 400 kilos. So, we have to machine it down here. We have to protect it at night. Probably our hidden secret.
We don't tell anyone this thing. So, word's out now. But when you're using ember or, you know, it actually bends up to 16 mil, so you can do radiuses on 16 mil. Makes your life so much easier. So, yeah, I guess now everyone's going to buy one. We'll run this in flat. And all you need to do is just make sure that that rib stays vertical as we go through. So if that rotates the rib being horizontal changes how that bend is going to behave and it's doesn't tell it much but it'll go from being a nice curve on what is about an 8 m radius and just if that rib is sideways it'll be like 20 m radius.
Now that's 16 mil bar right? Imagine trying to bend this by hand and look how perfect the curve is on it. So that's going to be ready to go straight away.
Uh you're just not going to get this perfect level of radius any other way.
So yeah, I don't know how um we would really do a pull like this without that machine to the accuracy that we want it because now we can actually say this thing's millimeter perfect whereas you just you cannot say that without that machine. I don't think it'll have any structural implications. It just won't look as clean and you won't get the the same coverage as you would with these perfect curves. Like cuz we're going to be forming that concrete on those perfect curves. If one's coming in then out, you know, you're not going to have as much cover here as as much cover there. So it enables you to have the perfect curves all the way through. And then the shapers also have a perfect curve to follow. So it just it's like with anything building, you do one thing right, it just stacks, you know, as the same as if you do one thing wrong, it stacks the wrong way.
But this is a cool view here. If you just look back, you can see all the info sticking up. Once these are all set out, they're actually placed really nicely.
When you're looking from above, you'll see these heads are all in strategic locations. And the thing is with in floor, say the curve of the pool is like this, you can't put them straight up because then when you go to cut it and put the heads in, it it won't work. Say the curve of the pool is like this, you have to install the head like that. So that way when you go to put the head in, it comes up flush with the with the gradient of the pool. If I do like this and like that, then my head's going to stick out. The in floor is actually curving with the gradient of the pool.
That's that's by design. So the idea with in flooror cleaning is to have as minimal friction as possible. If we have a lot of 90° bends, harder for the water to get to the end passage. We try to minimize those 90 degree bends as much as possible. However, in this case, we've got one here where we've got a a 90 and a 90. It's literally just not possible any other way cuz if we were to 45 it or sweeping bend it, it would put the head too high out of the ground.
Sometimes you have to make allowances for those things. It's one head. It'll still work. But the rest of these will all they all got sweeping bends. 45s.
What I mean by 45 is a 45 degree angle wherever we can because within floor it's really important to get that pressure to the end and make sure you're going to be able to push the debris to the center.
So that bar I was talking about before, we got two two top runs here of 16 mil.
You can see that perfect radius here now all the way through. All the boys had to do now is literally just place this in and tie it on as opposed to trying to bend it in, especially with something so thick like 16 mil. That's the result of that machine and that's how it looks once it's installed. So we'll keep running these all the way through. They normally have, you know, two or three larger bars at the top of any out of ground wall to keep the strength there.
So this honestly is the biggest week of the whole build. If I don't get majority of steel done this week, I'm I'm not going to make concrete. We got 25 mil range predicted tomorrow, 20 to 30 mil the next day. Then we got 60 mil predicted the day after that. Then we got 50 mil predicted the day after that.
So I'm really up against it yet again.
But I've got so many other jobs to go to now. I've only got a couple weeks to get this done. So in all honesty, if I don't get this 90% of this deal in this week, I'm going to have to push the whole job back. But we'll see. You know, I I always push to the last minute. So I'm really hoping we can get it done. Yeah, there is a challenge which is uh we've got for pressure pipe there's only 45 degree bends and 90° bends. If someone knows if we can get other degree bends, I'd love to know where we can get those because we have a a radius for this catch tank and we need our heads to remain in the center at all times. So you get the first two in a straight line and then from there it's a zigzag with 45 degree bends to get each head in the right spot. I'd love some 22 and 1 half degrees or 30° bends or even 15° bends.
So if anyone's thinking about making those, that would be great to make our life a whole lot easier. There is flexible plumbing that you can use, spar flex or pool flex. We've still got another layer of steel to go in this catch tank. And if we put down the flexible flexible pipe and you know you get a puncture in it, someone's just not paying attention, they don't see it, they don't notice, then you've got a broken pipe and you got a leak in the concrete. Although that would get the radius very easily. Not going to take the risk of getting a leak. So we'll zigzag instead.
>> It's literally just too wet to do anything right now. So we're just sitting and waiting. Once again, here we are like fighting the rain. But that's that's why we put this tarp up to at least give us some sort of dry spot, you know, weight between showers. So, it's all coming through here now. As you can see, it's still flowing, but it seems to be easing off now. So, we're going to give it, you know, another 20 minutes, but I've checked the radar. It seems to be clearing now. But if it doesn't clear, we're just going to have to call it quits. The fact the boys are here still trying to work is is a good result because most of the time if it's just like this, everyone will just go, "No, stay off." So, >> lucky I got that block wall in.
cuz that's what's holding this whole pool together still.
>> But yesterday was good. We got this floor in half of it.
It feels like a festival, you know, when there's like a camp a tent at a festival.
So, we'll probably um I'll probably take the top down now cuz it looks like it's finally clearing up and then we can get back to work. This is what every time it rains, this is what we deal with. Well, lucky cuz we got all that gravel on the base. It'll just slowly dissipate out now. Like you can see like where the boys all are in here, it's all going to dry out. Like I'm where I'm standing is solid and that's why we have that gravel base.
That's why we put it in cuz if you just leave this mud, we wouldn't be able to walk on it. The fact the pool's still workable is a testament to like the way we've set it up. So I'm happy with that.
And the, you know, we're all hiding away for now. And little things like this that you got to do just to keep the job going. Like at least the boys got somewhere to sit and rest while the rain comes. Like I've done a lot of difficult jobs, but this takes a cake. It just every time I get somewhere, it t like this happens like and that's when I talk about like things being so crucial we get things done in time. That's why cuz when this all comes, you need this structure to stay in place, which it is now. Like this isn't going anywhere no matter how much rain we get cuz we got the block wall. We got the footings in.
In that regard, it's it's solid. It means we can rip straight back into it.
That being said, I'm just not going to get what I wanted to get done this week yet again. So, I still can't make a call on whether we're going to make concrete or not. I don't want to speak too soon, but we might get away with it. Looks like I spoke too soon. Back under the top we go.
Last week was feeling potentially dire, but that's just the way building goes.
Sometimes you win some, you lose some.
The worst thing you can do is stop completely. Everyone loses where they're at and you lose momentum. So, momentum is really important. Even after you get a rain event, try and get back in there as quickly as possible. keep everyone fresh and momentum rolling because otherwise these things can stagnate. I'm going to have to push concrete now. I've done that. So, I'm not going to make the original concrete date. However, I'd rather get this thing done properly and the quality. It'll be pushed back about 2 or 3 weeks. However, in the scheme of things, it's all still an awesome result for this pool. We'll keep pushing. Even if rain comes, we keep pushing um no matter what. So, we'll get there.
So, you can see we've made some pretty good progress. So, first layer of steel's in. Second layer is on top now.
Uh you can see the pool's really beefing up, which is good. This is one of the main problems we face with pools when you're digging in in ground is when you have massive rain events. As you can see here, it's all flooded in. So, I've actually been going around with this mini shovel. And what you have to do is go through by hand. Tedious has.
And you got to clean out all this again cuz all the water's rust through here.
And now you can see up here my steel, it's all buried. That's a major issue because you can't have you need coverage under the steel. You can't just spray concrete directly on top of it. Like we're lucky after such a huge rain event that this is your only area. Imagine you have this throughout the whole pool.
Like you'd be there for like 5 weeks just cleaning it out. So it's literally relegated to one tiny area. So with, you know, over 300 mil rain cyclone, awesome result. Like it's still going to be a bit backbreaking getting it out of here, but I'm not too phased about it. So the steel's all coming up through here and up to the infinity now. So you can see that starting to take shape. Still some more to go in here. We just tie wire it to this to keep it steady and make sure we maintain the right distance and radius. But these in flooror heads are in one side, they're in the other. So they'll be able to clean the trough. But what we do with these is we run the heads in. Then we do what we call a loop. Now see this loop?
we run into a T which is a plumbing piece and then run a loop to either side of the in flooror.
So the reason we actually do that is if we just run a pipe here say into one side the water will rush through to the other side and you'll get more pressure at the end and then that way the water comes here splits evenly and goes to either side and this all will operate evenly as opposed to one side being stronger than the other and that way you get even cleaning. So there's one more layer of steel to go over this plumbing now and then this catch pull will be done. So, we've just used non-structural ply for the the outer bits. But for this infinity edge face, I want a really nice clean finish. So, we're actually using what's called a a film formwork, which is a a bend bendable formwork, 9 mil thick. Uh I have that being delivered later today. And that'll be able to curve around here and give us a class finish. The way they class formwork is like this class 1 2 3. So, this will give us a class 3 finish, which means it's a lot smoother and nicer. So when it comes time to tile this, once I strip the formwork, it'll be really neat and tidy finish as opposed to the front there where I don't really need it. I can just render it.
So what I'm doing down here is I'm placing my first nozzle and I have measured that off of the two sides and I know my position of where it's got to be. So how I do that? So, I clean up the pipe before I glue it.
Take some primer, get all the grease and dirt and everything off the fittings.
Uh, prime both the pipe and the fitting.
Use my glue and a tool which a lot of plumbers forget about a level.
I just want to get that fitting nice and dead straight. So, with the in floor cleaning, if you have a look back at the pool, you'll see the pipes up on different angles.
Those angles are perpendicular to the floor rather than straight up and down.
So, those angles are on purpose. This floor is flat, so I want to make sure my pipe is standing out completely 90° to the floor. My two main tools that I use for plumbing apart from my level and tape measure is a recipro saw, reciprocating saw.
Cuts through the pipe a whole lot quicker than the old hacksaw. Gives me a fairly straight surface to work with.
You don't want to cut your pipes on an angle because if you do that, as you twist the pipe into your fitting to bead the glue, the high piece is going to push the glue around and create gaps inside. So, you want it a nice straight cut. And my second most used tool, and probably my favorite tool, is just a drill with a shamfering bit.
What I do on pretty much every cut, every cut I can get to is run that over the edge. Puts a little 45° shamfer around the edge of the pipe.
It also helps clean up all the burrs. So once I put my priming fluid on that, it'll get rid of all the burrs, give me a nice clean, neat surface to work with.
Now, when I glue and push that into the fitting, that little shamfer creates a little O-ring. It's just a little bit of a precaution. Most plumbers don't use them, but it gives me that extra layer of security and helps prevent any leaks.
Pipe comes in different thicknesses.
This is class 12 pipe. You get class 9, which is more commonly used in Australia. We use class 12 for inf flooror cleaning. Um, it's running through the concrete. There's a lot of it, so you want it to be a whole lot stronger. Class 9 pipe you can actually squeeze and you'll you'll see it flex a little bit. not as much as a storm water pipe would do. That's really thin. But class 12 is a whole lot thicker. Now, when you heat it and you start flexing the pipe, outside of your flex is going to get thinner as it stretches and the inside is bending inwards a little bit.
Weakens the pipe and it defeats the point of using class 12. For me, putting a heat gun on the pipe is a a no no unless you absolutely have to and preferably above concrete level where if there ever is a problem, you can get to it later. My nips and my tie wire, it's more of a steel fixing tool for trying the steel on, but it comes in really handy for securing your pipe. So, as you glue the next fitting, you're not twisting this one out of level. Concrete has kicked them. They get kicked during construction. So by securing it, it's not going to go out of level later on.
>> The spa is now getting close to complete. Matt's just in there now finalizing the plumbing. Still a bit more to go, but it's looking really good. So the airlines are in for the blowers. We got the Venturi jets around here. These are special jets. They got four in each one. So that'll be two spots there where you can sit back and get like really nice massage. And then we got standard spa jets the rest of it.
If you're going to do them around the whole spa, which we're originally looking at, it's going to be like five pumps. So, it's just it's better off just having one designated section where you can go get a nice massage. Still going to have all the spar jets around here. But these are special tool lines.
So, they actually um are flexi pipe. So, standard ones, you won't get the bend on them. And we talked about how we don't really we don't want to bend pool pipes when by heat. So, these are the solution to that. They're called flexi pipe. If you are going to use these, I have a whole different type of glue you have to use. You'll see it's a blue glue as opposed to red primer and green glue.
>> Hey, so what we're using here is a Aqua blower system. Traditionally, pool builders would have run a piece of pipe on the top of the bench and drilled through your tiles or your pebble cleat into that pipe for the air blower and bubble effect in your spa. Acria have come up with this solution which literally just has little 15 mil penetrations and they join together. You can extend the pipe and place them where you want.
But what that allows us to do is actually seal around the penetration and stop water from going down. Because one of the problems with a previous way of doing it is you were literally drilling through your waterproofing. water would leak through and get to your steel and you'd have rust coming out.
>> We've actually dug out all that dirt that was flowing in. We've redirected that with the machine to flow around the pool now. So, that was all dug out by hand, but it's all clean now. We got the perfect coverage on the steel that we need. There's one more layer that's pretty much gone in now over the pipes.
It's nearly done. It's coming up here to the front of the infinity wall. Then, we'll run the horizontals through here and this will be ready. We'll cut it all to height and we can actually start forming up the front of this wall now which is awesome.
In floor cleaning heads have all been set out and finished here. Now I just got to run our steel layer over the top of that and then this area is all done.
Good to go. There's probably a couple hours in that to be honest. So then we'll form up the stairs into here and then a little bench through here and that's this area done. It's little sections now all coming together and then suddenly it'll all be it'll all be done.
Yeah. Okay. So later on we'll we'll do the pressure test, but basically that'll be connecting all the pipes up uh one singular system where we'll then plug a hose and a valve into and pressure test it. Basically fill up all the pipes with water and then run the pressure test on that and then you basically leave that for, you know, 5 6 hours or even even overnight and just see if that pressure level drops at all cuz if it does, you got leaks in the plumbing. So that's why pressure testing is super important when it comes to pools. So this is a little system that you do by air. So you basically got those two little hoses that you connect to and you insert this in the pipe and obviously bung it to the point where no air is going to escape and it's all hooked up here. You see the pressure gauge. There's a couple ways to do it. You can link all the pipes together or you can go through individually and do pipes one by one. So we're starting down here for the catch pool. Then we'll work our way up and do all the rest of the in floor. It's such a minor thing that you can just do as you go, but if you miss it and you you got a cracked pipe in the pool, you're in massive trouble. Like not me personally, but I know people in the past who've had a broken in floor line in the pool. They've just had to refund the customer completely for the whole in floor cleaning cuz it's just not usable.
If we do find a pressure drop, then comes the hard task of finding where the the leak is. So, basically, we'll be able to narrow it down to the pipe when we do these individual tests. So, we'll just run along that and either do the old spit test where you spit on a, you know, a seal and just watch if it bubbles. Um, or if it's if that's not working and you can't find anywhere, just replace the whole pipe.
Okay, so this week another productive week. Now comes a time where we go through and actually make sure everything's perfect. And when we walked down here and checked all this bracing after the massive rain event, we realized it wasn't as solid as we really wanted it. So we've come through this week and actually doubled it all up. So you can see now we've added all these extra timbers all the way through. And this is a big structure we're holding up here. So you can never overdo it. And we wanted to do that before we started forming the infinity wall. If something like this fails here, you're done. You know, like look how far out of ground we're going to be here. Like we're 2 m out of ground here. By the time we get out to the top of the infinity wall, it's like 3 and 1/2 m. This is a structure in itself which will eventually all be removed, but you can never overdo it when it comes to bracing.
Catch pool is done. Let's go.
Uh good feeling to get this all tidied up. Now we move on to forming this infinity wall, which is the fun part.
You're really going to see the pool take shape now. So this is that form ply I was talking about. That's a flexi form and it's a class 3 finish which going to give us that really smooth finish. So this is from Royal Formwork in case you couldn't tell. Um but yeah, so see how this curves with the way we wanted it to. If you're going to use like a real structural form ply, it wouldn't get that curve. So that's why we use the flexi in this situation. We're just placing it at this point. We still got to brace it all up. You know, these will be sitting in the ground like that and go against and brace all this. So, what we need to do is obviously we can't concrete with all these in there. So, what we do is as we go, we'll concrete that first, strip it out, and then we'll take all this form off. We'll have that beautiful finish. Give it enough time to set. Then we'll come into the catch pool and start spraying into here. But you'll notice down here, so this is about where concrete will finish here. Okay? Maybe a little bit lower. But if you, which I' I've done this in the past, this is why I know the mistake. I've done an infinity edge where I stop the formwork up here and to shape it into the pool.
But what happened was the pressure of the concrete coming through here, say it stopped here, the pressure actually pushes the concrete out and every time we tried to press it back, it just kept kept coming. So in that scenario, we just ran through it and kept it. But I had to go through the whole catch pull on that job and jackhammer it all off after the fact. So lesson learned there.
Obviously, this is why we set this, you know, pretty much perfectly to floor height because then, you know, once concrete comes and sits here, it's not going to have the opportunity to really come out. And if it does, we just push it into the floor. Anyways, we've talked up there before how looking over, you know, lights always need to be shining away so you don't really see them. But in this case, so we're actually going to put the lights on this side cuz they're going to shine back and then light up this whole infinity wall. That'll be a really nice look when the water's falling over it at night especially.
as we've gotten to the point of the job now where it's less like trying to figure out where everything is really going to go and what sequence. Now it's just finishing it all off and working our way back. So, it's kind of the fun part because we've been through the real stressful parts. Not saying it isn't stressful, but like you know the the end is in sight, concrete's coming. So, it's it gets more exciting now. Momentum builds and everyone sees the pool taking shape and knows this thing's actually going to happen because there are certain points where you know people may think, "Oh, is this is this ever going to happen?" like you know what a what a mess but it always does and once you get to this point everyone mentally clicks all right this is happening let's smash it out so that's where we're at now so you can see infinity wall is now taking shape it's looking really good we got all this steel still sticking up so we'll cut this steel to height next week but while I remember if you haven't subscribed I know a lot of viewers are watching and haven't subscribed if you can that would be awesome it really helps me showcase what I'm doing here and be able to continue doing so and make sure you turn on that notification bell. But now back to this. So, we'll cut this all down next week, make sure it's at the right height, form up the rest of it, and then we'll be ready for this infinity wall to be sprayed, and then tidy up all the things around here, too. So, standard infinity edges usually just like a 45° angle or flat or a slight angle. We're actually going to do a curved top to this infinity edge. So, the whole thing will be like that along the whole top, the rolled edge, which is like really nice, real luxury. For that to work, we have to set this formwork a little bit higher because when you're spraying, right, if we set this to height, it's not going to work because you're going to spray and it'll just go over. So, you set the formwork a little bit higher. Spray up to that. Get your level and then run the the jig all the way through. It's probably going to finish about here, right? So, nearly up to my chest by the time I'm standing on top of concrete.
I'll be able to hang over my arms. So, it's not too deep at the same time, not too shallow. So, I think it'll be a really good balance there. and you'll be able to hang over the edge and look at the catch pool and be really cool. In floor cleaning completely done. We're finished. We've pressure tested it all.
We're all good. Um, plumbing's completely done. Where do we start? I'll start with the spa.
Everything's in here. It's completely plumbed. This is set to the concrete height. This is the main drain for the inflow cleaning and the suction. So, we actually have to laser this to the perfect height. So, you'll see that that's where the floor will finish. So, we got to actually bring this whole floor up a fair bit. That's why we're going to do the first spray and then we'll come on top and then we'll do it to this height. So, there'll be a fair bit of what we call bulk concrete in here. If I got a lot of bulk concrete sitting against that wall, which I'm going to have here, it just strengthens this whole wall. Um, and I've got that bench running all the way through. So, if anything, it's it's going to help with waterproofing. If anything were to come through that block wall, it's not going to be able to get through the pool or under. Technically more expensive to bulk spray. That's why we use void formers a lot of the time. But in some scenarios, I'd do it for, you know, structural integrity. And not only that, like this, this is going to be set in stone now. And it's really going to anchor the whole pool. The fact that we have this footing for the block wall, right? It meant it meant we had to go into rock, which means we had to dig the spar deeper than it needed to be. So, what we're going to have to do is kind of treat this as a footing. We'll come and spray this first, the spar. Leave it set for a little bit. Then we'll come back and spray the spar as normal.
Imagine if I'm sitting in the spa, right? And it's that deep, it's going to be too deep for my legs. Like I'm a little kid dangling, you and because this is all going to be tile, you'll slip off when you lean back and you slip into the pool. So now we've got that floor height there. You'll be able to plant your feet and actually the spa will be at the right height. A lot of planning goes into those things. Like once again, seems like a small thing.
Oh, just do this bar deeper. But especially you got little kids in here.
Like if they're going to go jump across, they're actually like at the point of like having to tread water, which we don't want. All the plumbing's done. All the suction returns, bubblers, in floor heads, spa jets, and then we got the special spa jets on this side. So these will be two for your legs and four for your back. The way that's set up is these are the two little massage spots and you can sit there and then overlook the pool and the infinity edge like that. So that's why we set them up there. And then we got, you know, the spa jets spaced evenly between them.
Yes, we could have loaded this pool with more spa jets, but at the same time, not everyone loves jets. Some people just like sitting in the spa calm. So if you have, you know, one spar jet then a seat in between for people to have a break from bubbles or, you know, spa jets on their back, finding that right balance is good. The spa here will then join onto the path which will now allow you to get from one side of the pool to the other. So the path will come out here.
You walk along. You'll be able to get into the spa. We'll walk across the bridge into the pool. Then we'll have the cave over the top of us here. But that's why we have to bring that block wall even higher behind us cuz imagine if I'm standing up here. You obviously need height above that. So it's going to finish, you know, another 2 m above here. So that'll be really nice when you have the waterfall flowing here. And you'll be able to sit here, turn around, look at the whole view, look at the whole pool. This is like a really nice, you know, spot for a moment in this spa.
And like I love where it's positioned cuz you get a view of the whole pool.
Okay, so this is the auto top up mechanism that we concrete into the shell. It comes in like a skimmer bucket. It's a pretty simple mechanism.
It's a ball float. And once you set this to the proposed water level, see when you push this down, like say the water's running out, it actually allows water to come in. So you you tie it up to a water supply here through an RPZ valve and then that's pressurized. So as soon as this comes down, the water goes >> the water goes and then as this floats, see how it's moving? As it floats and comes back, it'll close that valve back up. So pretty old school contraption, but works really well. The only thing is with these, I actually replace them with plastic ones because this metal corrods and gets stuck over time if you're not, you know, constantly hitting it with WD40 and it'll get stuck and won't actually top the pool up. Either get a plastic one or replace it with plastic, which what I'll be doing. Once again, a little thing that's happened to me in the past that I learned from. So, that's what I'll be doing for this one. So, we'll put this in the corner in the catch pool sticking out with my water supply into it because we're sucking from the catch pool and it returns to the pool and flows over. The place you're going to lose water is actually the catch pool. So, that's why we put it down there and that'll fill up the catch pool, suck back and return to the pool.
And that way, that's how you fill an infinity pool up, not not in the actual infinity. You do it from the catch pool cuz that's where the true water level lies cuz water will always find its level there.
This is the remainder of the in flooror heads we've put in for the beach entry now. So the key with these is because we're going from absolute zero entry and by zero means you know you're just walking straight in and then it's a slow descent. We can't put these heads too far up that way because if we say put it back another 2 m there and there's only like this much of water. These heads are going to come up and like create huge water disturbance. So we bring them down. This is the maximum I'll go which would be like 200 of water. any less water. They're just a, you know, they actually just become a real problem because they got pressure, high pressure jets, disturbs all the water looks very average. This area itself is probably the hardest bit to clean, but at the same time, you can just grab a brush and push it down from there because you actually have access timewise, like 50% of what we've had to do here and plumbing. So, when you consider the amount of time that's gone into it, yes, this is why it's so expensive. It's not only the PVC that's going up 38% in the last week, by the way. Um, it's the labor and intense labor that goes into it and the set out and making sure it's perfect pressure testing. So, it's an awesome addition to a pool, but if you are considering, you know, ever installing it, just remember it takes time, costs a lot of money for that reason. The best thing is though, like this pool now it's done, it's in, it'll be cleaning itself. This thing's going to run very smoothly and not become a headache to upkeep all the time where it actually becomes a liability, not an asset. Definitely one of the biggest in flooror cleaning systems I've ever done and I'm sure around Australia if not the world. So majority of the the pools that get in flooror are just you know a 25x 10 m rectangle pool.
I potentially underestimated it a little bit. Like I always know things are going to take longer than you expect but this one particularly with the weather it's been a real battle. So that's something I'll take from this and setting expectations like say I have another one like this moving forward timelines it's like okay I can give you an approximate timeline but with these things there's a lot of uncontrollable so overall the way we've brought it all together I'm pretty happy with I don't really have any regrets or would have done this way or that way. I think it's been done pretty well.
Okay, so we're on our last day of steel, plumbing, lights, everything. We're all pumping it out. Pressure's on, but we're going to get there. Yeah. So, you can see all this area is done now. We got the vulk of the steel in here. So, this is all running to a zero entry. So, by zero entry, I mean beach entry. So, you'll come from literally ground level and walk into the pool, which now you can see. And then we got the foot path next to the pool here. So, this is actually how you'll walk through the pool and get from one side to the other.
Otherwise, you'd have to swim across cuz we've obviously got the huge drop off over there. So, we'll be walking through here and the boys have done the path to that point and then where the gap is, which you'll see is where we'll be doing the canal levered bridge, but we'll be doing that later once the the pool's concreted. So, all the little final touches are going in. It's just a matter of bringing it all together now today.
And, you know, it's going to be a big day, but we'll get it done and be ready for concrete. Technically, we're not licensed to Earthool. You have to, under Australian standards, get a licensed electrician to Earthool. So that's what we've done. But we've got a couple of earths because the pool's so big. Uh most people just do one earth in a pool and go it's sweet. But it's actually not the case. You have to do multiple earths. So you can see we got one down here and we run it in conduit under the pool. So that's earth into the steel directly. Then run the the earth wire goes either way. Then we run that through all the way.
The reason we earth pools is cuz pools will have an electrical charge. I don't know the exact science behind it obviously but long story short all pools have to be earth by Australian standards otherwise you really actually can run the risk of electrocuting yourself in the pool as well of all things surrounding the pool within 1250 mm so say I have a you know the pool finishing here and then uh a meter away I've got a a stainless steel spigot for a fence that has to be earth too because technically they say you can reach out that and get the charge and electrocute yourself make sure you earth them make sure you allow for the earth run the earth out the back. Leave a loop in it cuz then you can loop into that and if you need to earth the fence, you use that loop and you tie it into the the fencing as well.
Obviously, we've got in flooror cleaning here which is going to move the water.
However, you never can have too many skimmers in my opinion cuz the last thing you want is just rely on in flooror cleaning and then you don't have extra suction points or you know fail safe. So, say the in floor is not working properly. You still can use a skimmer while it gets fixed etc etc. So, we got three skimmers, one, two, and three. Kind of placed evenly for flow throughout the pool. Now, these skimmers have all been lasered to height. The thing is with skimmers, you set them too low, set them too high, you're in big trouble. So, make sure when you put these in, get your laser out, ping it off, make sure it's perfectly level and perfectly at the right height because we need coverage to come up to here and sit perfectly with concrete. No matter what, the water level is going to sit at the infinity edge, right? So if we have this skimmer all the way down here and the water level set up here, then the skimmer is not going to skimmer like so you have to have the water pretty much sitting, you know, 3/4 up at the way of the skimmer at all times. That's best practice. Now these are called a super skimmer. Um this is a construction cover. So you put these on during concrete and they're literally just temporary. This won't be what we finish it with. We'll actually put a a tiled what's called a hide skimmer lid or a quad skimmer lid over the top which will integrate it with the tiles perfectly. A standard skimmer is called like an S75 which will just have one port in the bottom but you can see this got two.
What I mean by ports is you know two lines. So that's the advantage of a super skimmer. You can use that those two lines to get better flow and connect it where you want to into the in flooror or wherever you want to suck and return to. The super skimmer is a lot deeper, so it's actually going to capture a lot more debris as opposed to a standard skimmer, which it's got like a little basket like this. This one will have a basket like that. These are the best skimmers you can get. They're a water co. I've used them for years. Never had an issue with them.
You can see we got all this foam in here, which we've had sitting for a while now, so it's a little bit dirty.
So, in this instance where we're forming up a full pathway here, right, all the way out of the pool. Say if we didn't have these void formers, you're going to be pouring so much concrete into that.
So that's literally the whole point.
This is going to be such a large paw as is. We got to we got to make sure we minimize concrete as much as possible.
So the way these are designed, they're a void form like this and then at the bottom they actually come in like a top of a house but upside down. And that's designed so concrete can get under cuz say if you just have a square like that, you're not going to get concrete underneath where we need on the floor.
Super useful. We actually get them custom made to our measurements. So when we know what we've got like with this width, we'll say, "All right, we need a 800 wide, you know, by 900 deep with the angles on it." And that's why we've got these and they fit perfectly to chair off. So we chair them off here, which would we're just finishing up now. And that gives you the perfect coverage from the void former on top of steel, too. We got such a massive paw here. It's going to be my estimate is probably like 160 cube, which is insane considering we got a pump from the top of a hill down here.
We've got an extension till 9:00 p.m. as it is, just in case the concrete goes over because you just never know. But the last thing you want to be doing is spending, you know, two hours just sitting here filling this up because this is this is a bit last to go in. What happens is the steel, right?
Because it's it's on a curve, the ends each end is going to want to come out.
So, what's happened here is because we've left this, which we honestly we should have put this in earlier, this has p pushed out, right? and it's actually caused this to flatten the curve here and it's not giving us that radius we want. So, we actually got to fix this today uh to make sure we've got that proper curve coming through here.
And these are the things that happen.
You just got to own it and move on and fix it. And if we don't fix this, you're going to have, you know, a really nice curve and then it's going to go into a flat spot and you won't be able to tile it properly. So, one of those things you got to, you know, always check, run your radiuses. I know I say radius every week, but that's why it's so important.
And to the eye, you can't really see it.
But once you stand here and look, you can see it. Attention to detail so important. Not because we want to look good or just trying to say, "Oh, we we pay attention to detail." But purely in the future, that's going to become a huge headache because if you have it flat like that and we want the curve, you're going to have to render that curve around that like that. You see? So that's going to be a lot of buildup, a lot of cost, a lot of time. Whereas if we just run that curve perfectly at the start, you just run, you know, a skim coat render on that directly. then you can put your tile straight on. That's the difference with those things. It's not so much about trying to look good or, you know, save face. It's actually going to help us down the track and save us money fixing it. Now, so now you can stand here, you start to see the scale of it. It's different in person. Hard to explain it, but when I stand here and look back, it's like, oh, that's a big pool, you know? Like, it's like a massive resort pool in a backyard. So, it's nice to stand up here and get that view of it and see this the sheer scale of it. And once we get concrete in there, it's just going to look bigger. Like, I love this part because it's like an actual pool forming. All we got to do is put concrete in. Uh, which is easier said than done, but at least now we're at the point we've pushed through all the, you know, the hard work, the rain, the the setbacks, the slipping over in the mud, you know. So, it's dry now. We've had actually no rain this whole week. All the weather's starting to dry up. We got perfect weather for spray. That's why you just keep pushing. Don't give up.
Take it step by step because there's been a lot of times here where myself included, the boys have just gone, "Oh my god." You know, it's just muddy, yuck, hot, raining every week. And that's what you got to have a really good team behind you that doesn't give up, stays positive, doesn't crack the, you know, massive credit to them. This literally just wouldn't happen without them. So, really proud of the team and what we've pulled together here. And I'll show you what we're dealing with here.
This driveway obviously super steep. I don't know if you can see it, but the pool's all the way down there. So, that's the hardest part of this spray.
Once again, getting the lines down there and everything down there. Steel, pipes, plumbing, equipment, pumps, filters, everything. We got to get down there.
So, we're going to have one truck up here. Then we we're going to have what we call the AGI, which is basically the concrete mixer disposing into that. Then we'll run a line all the way down the driveway and down the end of the driveway. We'll have another truck. So, the idea is we drop concrete in the first truck, pump it down into the next truck down there, then run that into the pool and split that either to a single spray hose, depending how we're going, or get a what we call a wire piece, which enables us to have two spray hoses and then spray the pool that way. Cuz in the past we've had this run a line, you know, all the way down, but we're only doing footings.
It's like real simple stuff. This is high pressure shotrete. Okay, so shotcrete is just basically pressurized concrete and it's a lot more delicate, goes off a lot faster and you have to get it right. 3 months of effort that's gone into the pool itself. Now there's so much riding on one day. So we got that buffer if we need it. And once again, that comes down to experience and not just saying she'll be right, you know, we'll get it in, mate. And my inkling is we'll definitely be using we'll be using a lot of that time. Uh hopefully we get it done earlier, but you just never know. We wrote to council, got the approval. You always got to do the right thing. Get that approval before you move forward and prepare for those things because say if I didn't talk to council and get that approval and we're here, oh 6:30, we got to keep spraying cuz you can't stop once you start. Then boom, fines come in, neighbors are going to get you in trouble. So prepare those things in advance. If you are doing a massive pour, prepare for things to take longer than expected, cuz they always do.
>> It's exciting. We're very close to being done. We've got finishing touches to one of the walls being done, which is just over on the far side. Got a little bit of form work here to finish off and then just little bits and pieces just fix ups, which will take a couple of hours.
But it's been a long time coming, and I cannot wait to see the concrete take shape. That in itself is going to be a big job and a big day. But yeah, B it is exciting. Yeah, we're relying on trucks to show up on time and for the mix to be what we're expecting. You do just get occasional dry mixes come through a line and get a blockage. Sometimes there's just nothing you can do about it. You can be as prepared as you want and you'll still get it. If we get blockages and if we don't get trucks on time, then you have to improvise on the plan for where you spray. Yeah, we're relying on that to to happen smoothly. Some of it's out of our controls and we'll be as prepared as we can. But yeah, see what actually happens on the day.
All right, it's concrete day. Pressure's on. It's 16° so my car says right now.
So, it can't get much better than that because the lower the longer it stays cooler the better because we don't want to be spraying into that stupid heat cuz then you run the risk of the concrete setting off too fast. That being said, um slept really well last night surprisingly cuz I thought I wouldn't.
But I'm really excited about today. It's been a long time coming and super super keen just to get this thing sprayed, get some concrete in it and see the shape all come together. There's still a very long way to go. Concrete day is always the biggest day of any pool build. Any pool builder will tell you that, you know, it makes or breaks you. Yeah, I guess we'll find out today whether we pull it off or not.
A lot of times with concrete, there are a couple of things that'll last minute.
That's where it goes. We got some time.
And as they're concrete, you can always fix up those tiny touches. You're never going to be a,000% ready for concrete.
Even if you think you are, you'll come the day and uh-oh, you know, we've missed something. So, I'm not too That doesn't worry me at all.
First bit of concrete right now.
>> Well, that's a good start. And we blown a line before we started.
Oh, at least it happens before we started concrete. That's why we start with a slurry line. We blew a hose, which is pretty rare. Too much pressure.
All right. Well, better sort it out.
Holy [ __ ] mate. And that's that's the new hose. The biggest hose.
>> Oh my god.
>> Yeah.
>> Oh my god.
This here.
It's a bit like sport. You drop the ball, you just go, "All right, regroup and go again." That's what we're doing now. Now, we're ripping into it. But I'm glad the line blew then, not halfway through concrete, cuz that would have been a disaster. And we got a spare line. Rest in peace. Look at this. So big. And that thing blew. So now you know the pressure we're talking about here. So we're going to have to get rid of this. Um it's a dead line now. And it was brand new.
That's why you also when you're starting concrete, never stand too close to the lines. You know, you never know if it's going to pop. Luckily, nothing happened.
That was just a big explosion and no one was close to it. But when you're first starting to run that line, especially in these situations, that's why you stay clear.
All right.
Once again, stay calm. Keep going. Clean up the driveway. We cleaned up the splashes. Now we get this thing underway. Yeah. So this is Well, the idea is you put slurry in so you don't blow lines, but cuz we got such a long line. We still blew one. But um we replaced it. Now the slurry is coming through. Then the next track will be the legit concrete. So we'll just use a slurry to void form all these massive areas. Uh then we'll move on to the real concrete. But that was hectic if you couldn't tell. Once again, this is this is the stuff I talk about. You know, inevitably sometimes things are going to go wrong.
All right. Well, I've already got my steps in for today. You got to be fit for this stuff.
But this is a critical point. You got to run around everywhere. Make sure everyone's sorted. You know, I got concrete truck up there complaining about being on the road. We're saying, "Right, 5 minutes. Just wait. This one's about to leave." You got to control those situations before they blow up. I said, mate, just give us, as you saw, give us 5 minutes. It's the beginning of the pump. Everything's going to be mayhem. So, now this is happening.
Everyone's underway. The first hour is so critical. Now, everyone starts to start to settle in. It'll calm down a lot. So, now I've got to just kind of go through and make sure now the concrete's actually happening the right way.
That's called a vibrator. Basically, I know what you're thinking. Basically, as you're pouring, it's already been poured, but you'll stick that in there and that'll vibrate it. Make sure there's no air pockets or honeycombing in the concrete. We got two of them here, one for each line. An essential tool that you need for every concrete spray is a vibrator.
If you don't do that, you you risk what we call massive honeycombing, which is massive gaps in the concrete. It can compromise the whole structure. Like, you have steel just poking out, rusting.
So really important to vibrate in those hard to reach places where we're going down deep and we can't actually get in there and pump it properly.
>> So I just jumped in and braced that which we should have had that done before. But it's when the as they're pouring these walls. I mean these aren't that high but even still with the amount of concrete that's pushing down the force it's wanting to push out at the bottom of the wall especially pressure for the concrete wanting to push that wall out at the bottom is yeah it's strong.
You just got to watch these walls cuz there's so much weight of concrete. The bottom like what I talked about previous video kicks out a little bit. We've got a little bit on the bottom kicking out now, but that's fine cuz we'll be able to shape that into it like I planned. So that's why you got to just watch things as they go and have team ready on site to add things if you need add extra bracing. Uh so we'll do that now.
Pressure testing.
Run the last lines. Doing a final pressure test. You can never be too sure. So, because of the weight of this down the concrete there, it's actually pushed this out a tiny bit. So, we're going to have to loosen this brace and then we'll screw this back in and all be fine. Those things happen. If anyone says they don't, they're just lying to you. So, like I'd rather just be honest like, yep, we got one little bit of bracing there. It hasn't held up the way I wanted to. Cool. We'll fix it on the fly and move on.
>> So, this is Big Jack. He's a legend.
He's the one getting a dump for me today.
We're on >> concrete pumping.
>> Let's go.
>> Uh, super positive guy, the right man for the job. So, appreciate him bringing all the boys out today. And >> we got 165 cube prepared. We're not quite sure how how much is going to go in it just yet. It's hard to tell from how much bulk there is and what the steel set up like the >> So, yeah. What the steel like that was just that load empty. But, um, once we get closer, maybe halfway through, we'll know an exact quantity of how much we can put in. But, we've got the plan open till 9:00 p.m. So, we're prepared for everything.
>> Yep.
Get it.
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> He's a good dude.
But you can see we're already three trucks in and it's like hasn't made a dent. You can't even see any concrete yet. So, a lot of concrete to go.
As you can see, we're shot creating the infinity wall now. Just like we planned.
Started up there. Working our way through the wall. Now, we'll get the the bulk of it on. Then, we'll start shaping it and get that jig on it. But, as you can see, it's starting to take shape now. The boys are starting to shape it.
That's awesome. Now this is why we use that shock creep so we can get it onto the wall. Uh that's why we need to brace it so much too because there's a lot of weight now being pushed against it in pressure. So this is the most critical part because this forms the whole shape of the pool. So we have to get this looking really nice. Get that jig along it. Make sure the wall thicknesses are right and get the nice curve like we planned. Still a long way to go. So because we had that massive depth we had to fill in the spar and that void the engineer wanted it. So, we pour that base first as like a footing, so to speak. Then, we leave it, let it set for a little bit, then come back. So, now Sam's actually laying the floor of the spa right now as we go while they're over there. Then, once we're done here, we'll come back to the spa, and then we can continue filling it. That way, we have a footing that's set in place for the spa, not one continuous pour, which is the way the engineer wanted it. So, and Sam needs to punch it out now, but he's under the pump, so we'll leave him alone.
Uh, block line. I'm kind of used to them now. Well, I think we're all sorted again, though.
But because we're going into a Y piece, right? That means one big line into a two. The Y piece gets clogged every now and then. So, you can take it out, smack it out, clean the concrete. But it's clear now. We're going again. All right.
This This looks mint. Like, look at this. I don't even want to touch it.
Look at that beautiful curve we got here. So, that's why we have the jig.
Yes. That's the whole point. This that's why we have to set this to perfect height cuz this sets the miniscus what we call meniscus of where the water overflows and the way infinity edges work is actually the miniscus allows water to bulge up and over before it overflows. But if we have this bit too low you the miniscus is gone. It won't be 100% perfect. It's concrete at the end of the day. The real complexity comes with tiling and getting that absolutely perfect. But you want to make it as easy as possible for yourself while you're concreting. You just want to touch it.
But look at that. Ooh, it just suits the whole pool. You know, we just did a normal 45° on this. It wouldn't look the same. The whole pool's curved. Why wouldn't you curve the front like that?
I'm loving that. It looks mint. Looks so good. People are saying, "I just throw concrete in." N like these guys are literal artists. Like, you'll see by the end of this pool, you'll see it. They've shaped this whole thing by hand. It's handcrafted. The curves, the shaping all the way through. You can already see it.
You know, that's all done by hand. It's awesome.
>> Uh, we're doing all right. N we're okay so far because we got back to back tracks. like it's running pretty well, but I did just run in there and say, "Let's make sure we're starting on the floor, connecting it now, not leaving points for too long, and then running the risk of cold joints." You'll see, you know, later on, you'll probably see little joints. They're not a big deal.
You just can't leave that concrete for a long period of time, then spray on top of it. So, you let it set for a little bit, which is what we're doing cuz we want to strip that wall and then get back into it.
All right, so now this has had time to set. We're going to strip it so we can move on to the catch pool. So, I'm going to get my drill, help Sam and the boys out and start stripping this bad boy ready cuz the pool's coming along now.
We're on the floor.
Spar's pretty much done. It's all really taking shape. You can see it. So, to get this formwork stripped and we got to move on. So, I got to keep moving.
Moment of truth. We're now stripping the Infinity War. We moved most of the racing. There's still a bit to go, but this is like the satisfying part of the reveal. You put the cake in the tin. Now you're stripping it. Um, we get to see how it looks.
Look at that finish on it. Beautiful.
Just exactly what I wanted. Exactly what I wanted. You're not going to get it absolutely perfect. We're always going to render over this and for tiling.
However, once again, you want to get it best as possible. And so far, so good.
So, now we'll keep stripping it. So, we're on the final stages. The boys now spraying the catch pull, finalizing that, shaping it off. As you can see, the formwork has been stripped and it's come up absolutely incredible. So happy like to get that finish with shot. It's so incredibly hard. And you can see that like wa it's just so good. Like so happy with the finish. The boys are moving on to the beach entry finalizing the path over there. Um but we're on the home stretch and it's gone so well. Like not a single cold joint. Uh boys have been hustling all day. Still a little bit to go but uh we're going to pull this off.
>> It's a mixture of relief and actually it's relief. There's something like something like accomplishment as well.
It's by far the most complex bullet I've done and this is yeah it's going well.
The guys have done an amazing job. It's very good work.
Exactly what I wanted.
Stay in the pool. Chill. Watch.
Sit here. relax. I can finally relax.
Really, really happy with this. And I'm already relaxing again. The funny thing is with with concrete, it's a chemical reaction. So, I'm actually feeling all the heat right now of the concrete as it sets. Cuz as it sets, it heats up.
That's how concrete uh sets. It's not like a drying reaction. It's a chemical reaction. And this thing is just h I'm just so stoked with it. I can't explain it. Like, it's been such an effort to get here. And you've, you know, you've seen it, the the pressure and the the rain, the setbacks, and we've pushed through it. And this is why you keep pushing because it all comes together in one day. And there's a lot of pressure on today. But all the boys, I'm I'm really stoked with how they all came here today. So positive, really excited to do the job. Smash the job out to the highest standard. You know, I'm watching boys go chip off little tiny things, which for a pool this size is just you don't get that often. So really happy with the quality work yet again. and all the trades and all the people that have been part of this up until this point.
So, massive thank you to them and appreciate them big time. Once again, thank you for joining the series. We pulled it off. We did it for this pool.
Now, we let it settle. We let it set. We need about 4 weeks for concrete to cure.
The episodes on this will pause for a little while. However, I'd love to hear from you what you want to see next and we'll try and bring that to you. But for now, we're going to have to let this cure and cure the way it needs to cure.
So, thanks for being part of this journey. We still got a way to go. I appreciate all the support. Don't forget to like, subscribe, comment, and I'm sure we can bring you more crazy pulls to come. Let's go.
I reckon that's good.
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