Adam transforms a simple backpacking trip into a profound meditation on the historical and ecological cost of human progress. It is a compelling reminder that our urban survival often rests on the submerged beauty of a forgotten valley.
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Deep Dive
50 Hours in Yosemite’s Forgotten ValleyAdded:
Yoseite is known for incredible views of massive granite walls. It's also known for unbearable crowds, but this park has a hidden gem that most people just ignore. For the next 50 hours, I'm backpacking alone through Yoseite's forgotten valley, Hedgeh. Unfortunately, the weather forecast is brutal. Rain, freezing rain, and snow are all headed this way. Will the weather help me find complete solitude? Or is this whole trip just a mistake? We're about to find out.
The only rule, I can't leave this park for the next 50 hours, no matter how bad the weather gets. But at the moment, everything looks fine. Some confusion with the permitting process. We are 2 [music] hours behind schedule, but I'm not going to let it ruin this trip. I don't think the hike in to where I want to [music] camp is horrible. So hopefully we make it before nightfall.
It's almost 2:00 p.m. I think. Sun sets before 8. Should be fine.
[music] This is the Oanosy Dam and the HCH HCHE reservoir. And to be honest, I can't believe it exists. But that's a story for later. Right now, the reservoir is completely full, which is great news.
It's actually going over the spillway.
It's so full. Actually, it's not going over the spillway. It's just going through it. Mercifully, it is not yet raining, but don't you worry. Storms are brewing. If you live in San Francisco, this is your drinking water. But for this trip, that doesn't matter.
Obviously, for this trip, survival is a must. But I'd like to do a little bit more than just survive. I'd like to have a nice time out here. And to do that, I've got some ideas, but there are also some things that might make that very difficult. [music] Before anything can happen, we got to make it to the campsite, which is 6 or 7 miles around the reservoir.
Well, this is interesting. They built a railroad so they could build the dam, but took it out to restore the landscape.
Fellow backpacker coming out just told me there is going to be some flooding, so we'll [music] deal with that when we get to it. The ranger who helped me sort out that whole permit situation let me know that there [music] was recently a bear sighting on this trail. Bear sightings are fine. We can handle that.
It's bear encounters we'd like to avoid, but frankly, I'm not afraid of bears.
The ranger also let me know [music] that someone recently saw seven rattlesnakes on this trail. I am afraid of rattlesnakes.
[music] the razer banter.
>> There's a unique uncommon bird at the top of that tree.
>> And you saw it from Don. Yeah.
>> Well, I don't think that is actually it cuz you're not we're not seeing the blue. It's so bright. It's such a color.
>> Well, thank you for pointing it out.
>> Yeah.
>> Have a good day. See you, too. [music] >> [music] >> We're coming up on W Pama Falls. Not sure how you say it. And I thought this would be the first major obstacle of the trip, staying dry on the way through.
But looks like this might not be a challenge at all. Maybe this whole trip will just be fine. Well, here's the bridge.
>> [music] >> Oh, that's nice. Oh my god. Rainbow. Can you see that?
That falls is flowing and there's a ton of weather coming in. [music] I cannot wait to see what this looks like on the way back. Plus, it's still sunny. I think we're making good time. And a group coming out let me know that there's only one other party going in and they're camping somewhere [music] else. That could be a good sign or a bad sign, but I'm going to take it as a good one for now. Poison oak, as far as the eye can see, that's not a good sign.
Let's keep moving.
I am going to call that last section of the trail Poison Oak Mile. I'm naming it that, not out of any knowledge that what lies ahead is free of poison oak, but of hope that that's the case. Of course, everything behind you is poison oak. So, I'm not super optimistic, but dare to dream. But for now, my god, I love Yoseite. This is beautiful. This would be an amazing place [music] to pitch a tent, but might be a little too close to the trail. And we are nowhere near where I want to be.
[music] That last mile I'm going to refer to as Poison Oak and Mosquito Mile. There's just so much water on this trail that [music] there's an abundance of both.
One thing I haven't seen another person.
Not for a while.
[music] Well, that section is clearly called Poison Oak and Stream Crossing Mile.
Good news. I think we've only got about a mile to go.
Those foot bridges are oddly terrifying.
[music] Wow.
No way. Somebody else is camping here and filming themselves. What are the chances?
Hey. Well, that I did not expect. Not at all. In other news, they saw a bear on their way over.
All right. Here's the deal. We are running out of daylight. Clouds are slowly building. So, we got to get setting up camp. I wanted to go check out the top of the falls, but I don't know where it is. We might have to do that tomorrow. For today, we have to decide. Are we going to go back down to that original camping place or are we going to brave these people? I can be a little shy, especially when it comes to talking into a camera like a lunatic, but these people seem nice. Janelle and Rob, just lovely people. If you guys ever see this, great to meet you.
Oh, could it be any better? Maybe it could be better.
Oh yeah, perfect. That other spot was great, but this one is level, which matters. It's also got a view of the reservoir and the falls. It's been impacted before, which is a good sign.
This is home for the night. Built-in bench. Didn't really even think about that. Does look like water travels through here, so hopefully we don't get too much rain. Just found another fun surprise right behind me, but we got to set up camp. We'll talk about that later. One of my favorite leave no trace tenants is grape campsites are found, not made. And man, I'm lucky to have found this one. I mean, you can't really go wrong with the view here, can you?
[music] >> [music] >> This is the trickiest part.
All right.
So easy. [music] And there you have it. I do have some extra stakes on the off chance that this storm does get really crazy, but I don't think we'll need them. One thing I would like to start doing a better job of is bringing a more appropriate amount of stuff. That's difficult when you've got 10 to 15 lbs of camera gear, but it can be done. One way to do that is not bring extra jackets and clothes and pads and fire starters. I got a lot of stuff.
This is enough fuel to last me for the rest of the year, but I don't know.
Brought the whole thing. Why not? Plate.
We are going to need that.
Jesus Christ. Sleeping pad. This is what we need. Sleeping [snorts] bag. going to need that, too. Sometimes you buy a gadget and regret it pretty much immediately. Sometimes you buy a gadget and you regret it over time. For this thing, no regrets whatsoever. Just so worth it every single time.
It is the springtime, April 24th, but I brought my winter sleeping bag.
Something else I hope we won't really need. Hopefully. I'm absolutely shocked that it isn't raining still, but I'm not going to complain. I'm going to take advantage and do a bit of alresco cooking and dining. First step for that, we got to go get some water.
There we go. For dinner, I'm making a beef stew. Part of the reason I wanted to get here a little bit earlier was that beef stew takes a while to make.
I've got a couple tricks to hopefully deal with that. I found a guy who specializes in backpacking meals.
Perhaps you've heard of him. I think it's Chef Cuso. He suggests using beef jerky and rehydrating it. We'll see how that goes. I definitely did not bring a cutting board, but I'm pretty sure I have a knife. Not exactly how I'd do this at home. Should work [music] fine.
There we are.
Yeah. Next time cutting board.
Good enough. Shallot.
Oh man. You probably couldn't see that, but the top of this shallot just landed right in my trash bag. That must be a sign [music] of good things to come. I bought all this food at a grocery store on the way up. Probably a better way to do this would be buy it before you leave and chop this stuff up at home. You've been warned.
[music] Oh, that smells so good. Okay, mushroom.
Why not?
Oh, no.
Ah. Ah. All right, we're going to break up the mushroom.
carrot. They were selling single ones.
[music] [music] [music] water.
These are vegetarian or [music] vegan chicken bullion cubes. It's all they had. They looked terrible. Hopefully, they're better than I think. Smell a little strange, but that's fine. And of course, beef jerky. Now, I think the move is just to break it up a little bit and toss [music] it in there. And then we're just cooking potatoes really for good measure. Two bags of beef jerky. Never had this brand before. It was extremely [music] expensive.
Beef jerky. I was expecting rain.
Give me a break. Okay. Spoke too soon.
It's raining. Well, things are looking up. That rain just blew over. The sun is back out. I thought I forgot my trusty spork, but I found it. So, 20 minutes or so and [music] these potatoes should be done.
All right, just sampled the potato and they are done. Let's see how this is. I definitely didn't bring any bowls, but this pot should do just fine. Certainly not the best looking meal I've seen in my life, but stew never really is. I think I might be a little disappointed if I got this in a restaurant, but when you're backpacking and cooking, the only thing that really matters is taste.
Let's see how it is.
Oh my god, it's so hot. Oh, burn my tongue. Oh, well, that was foolish.
Let's just try the broth.
Oh wow.
Oh, that's delicious. You know, with spork, probably not the ideal tool to be eating a stew with, but it's working.
Okay, the real test. Let's try this beef.
Oh, so hot. Oh my god, I can't believe I do that again. It was so stupid. Okay, there's two types of beef in here. And I think I know which one that one was.
That was the cheap one. Let's try the expensive one. This was out of the bag much tougher, much drier.
I'm going to try not to burn myself for a third time, but you know what they say.
Third time's a charm.
Oh, that's nice. To compare the two beefs, the first cheaper one was a crumblier, more less dry, I guess, beef.
The drier one actually came out a little bit better. Okay, all three all together now. Maybe some carrot, mushroom, beef, potato, and broth. And all I really need to do is not burn myself.
Well, it's still hot, but not in a bad way, man. Shout out Chef Cuso. This is incredible. I added a couple of secret ingredients. If I told you I' i'd have to kill you. Oh, but my goodness, this is good. I feel bad for disparaging those bullion cubes. I might go back and get more. 10 of 10 would make again.
>> Yeah. Oh, that just warms the body and the soul. Oh my goodness. Now, about the rain. The rain has been coming and [snorts] going intermittently, which is fine, at least for now. I think tomorrow might be a different story, but I'm still optimistic that this whole rain thing might just be in my imagination.
Oh my god, I just love Yoseite. This place is unbelievable. I've definitely caught myself thinking that it can't get any better than the Yoseite Valley or Twalami Meadows. And then you go to a place like this. I mean, my goodness, there's definitely no cell coverage here. So, I have no idea what the forecast looks like. I'm hoping tomorrow doesn't change my opinion of this place.
I mentioned the controversy surrounding HCH Hetche, and I really cannot stop thinking about it. So, tomorrow we're going to have to talk about it. But first, I'm going to read this book. A new friend of mine, Wes, gave it to me.
He said I'd like it. I guess we'll see.
I hope you have a good night. I'll see you in the morning.
Well, good morning. this morning has brought with it a handful of surprises.
One of them is that there are wild flowers everywhere. The rangers let me know that there would be wild flowers this time of year and I guess I just didn't see that many of them on the way in, but at least at this place they're everywhere. Surprise number two, there's a fire ring right there. That's exciting because you're only allowed to have fires in pre-established fire rings. So, we found one. Surprise number three, for sure the biggest of them all, the sun is out. I don't know if that means the forecast was completely wrong, but that's what I'm hoping. Obviously, hanging out in the back country when it is not raining is better than when it is raining and freezing rain and snow. So, let's hope this continues. Perhaps not a surprise, that book, The Kiki Expedition, is incredible. I'm certainly not going to spoil it, but the thing that sticks out to me most is just the determination of the author. He basically just made the decision and let nothing stand in his way. Incredible.
I've been roasting my own coffee lately and I'm almost out. Don't have much time to roast more. So, going to have to figure something out. Well, that's not really relevant for today. First things first, if this fire is really going to happen, we're going to need some wood.
>> [sighs] >> Not going to burn.
Maybe I've really never been much of a breakfast person. So, let's see if we can't work up an appetite. Yesterday, I said I wanted to get to the top of Rancheria Falls, but I never actually made it today. I would like to write that wrong.
Janelle [music] and Rob are gone. I hope you both have a great trip. Safe travels.
>> [music] >> Just something about the power of these rivers in the springtime. This is a creek.
[music] Now, I mentioned that I'm not a breakfast eater. Instead, I just drink element every morning. And that's why I'm thrilled that Element is sponsoring this video. If you're not familiar with Element, it's an electrolyte mix that has all of the good stuff you need, but none of the junk you don't.
One of the coolest things about Element is that everyone seems to love it.
Athletes, non-athletes, CEOs, non CEOs, me, my fiance, my brother-in-law, my whole family loves this stuff. And that's because you really do notice a difference. On days when I don't drink Element, I'm just not the same. That's why I just don't have those days. On days like today, it's pretty obvious why Element can be such an advantage. But even on days where I don't leave the house, I haven't found a better way to wake up than a cup of coffee and a packet of Element. This is pink lemonade. It's Element's newest flavor, and it has quickly become my favorite.
So, get a free 8count sample pack of Element's most popular drink mix flavors with any purchase at drinklement.com/e.
Find your favorite Element flavor or share with a friend. Now, I suppose we have to talk about the controversy surrounding this reservoir. Hetchy is a long and complicated subject. This is the abbreviated version at best. Books have been written on the subject. If you want to know more, I suggest you read them. 1918, there was an earthquake in San Francisco and it killed a lot of people. Not because it shook them violently or because buildings collapsed, but because of the fire that occurred afterwards. And the reason the fire was so deadly is because the city ran out of water. If you don't have water, you cannot put out a fire. The city had experienced a population boom after the gold rush and everyone agrees that you cannot run a city without an adequate water supply. So the powers that be started looking for one and they found this. Despite a number of other potential locations, this was the one they wanted the most. Unfortunately, this is a national park and you cannot build a dam and a reservoir on federally protected land. Now, you know what happens. You know how this story ends.
What's interesting is how this thing got pushed through through a bunch of government shyiness. Unfortunately, we don't have time for that story. What we do have time for is what's going on today. Recently, there has been an increasing movement to get rid of the dam. And that's because this reservoir is just not that big. Yes, it supplies water to 2 million people in San Francisco and beyond, but in the grand scheme of things, that's not a whole lot. Perhaps you've noticed that this valley looks a whole lot like Yoseite Valley. And that's what John Mir said when he told them not to build this dam.
In my opinion, every day that this dam remains in place is a travesty. But the only thing that's going to get rid of it is an economic reason to do so. And that's my opinion as well. What does that actually look like? Well, it means justifying the absolutely massive project that would be finding a new water supply and routing it to San Francisco, removing that dam and restoring the valley and crucially developing it for tourism. Should something like that go through, it will be opposed for reasons you can't even imagine. And it will bring with it a whole set of issues that you also cannot imagine. To do something like that would take more political will than it took to build it in the first place, which is why I wouldn't expect something to be completed anytime before California highspeed rail is completed. Hopefully soon, maybe never. Anyway, I guess I have worked up something of an appetite.
And it looks like those might be storm clouds brewing on the horizon. Hopefully not. Nothing says brunch quite like eggs and bacon, and I have brought both. One thing I did not bring is a frying pan.
Now, we'll make do. No real reason not to just cook all of it, I suppose.
>> [music] >> Bacon smells amazing. Hopefully bears don't like bacon. To be honest, cooking the bacon was not that [music] difficult, but the difficult part was always going to be the eggs. To be honest, I'm really not sure what to do about these eggs. I think the move is just get it hot and hope for the best.
No cracks on the way here. That is one of the pros of bringing a bear canister.
[music] If you settle them in there, you're pretty safe. The bottom of the pan is a disaster. [music] So, there's going to be some sticking.
Let's try this bacon.
[music] Not bad. And eggs. Do I scramble them?
Just not sure. All right, let's let's scramble. You know, a frying pan really would have changed this experience, [music] I think, for the better. Ah, well, doing these dishes isn't going to be the most fun, but we got eggs.
All right, eggs and bacon. Let's see how they taste.
[music] Are these the best eggs and bacon I've ever had? No. But are they better than any freeze-dried eggs and bacon I've ever had? [music] Absolutely. This is much better than anything that's ever come out of a freeze-dried backpacking meal. Plus, I think just about anything tastes at least 25% better when you're in the back country. And it only goes up from there based on how tired and hungry you are. The sun is still out, so I guess it's unclear on if it's going to rain or not, but the clouds are certainly starting to build. I'm hoping it's just a bluff like it was last night, but I guess we'll see. All right.
Well, it's around noon and this storm is rather fickle. It seems every moment like either it could ruin my day or just not even show up. At the moment, it looks like it's going to be here soon.
Now, I realize we just ate breakfast.
I'd call it brunch even, but it's never too early to start thinking about dinner. Aside from survival, I only had one real goal for this trip, and that was to catch a fish. Never have I ever caught a fish with a fly rod, and I'm thinking today might be that day. Of course, I have an extra bit of motivation. Should I fail, I've got to eat one of those freeze-dried backpacking meals, and god, those things suck. I have a variety of flies to choose from, all of which I've tied myself. I guess it kind of shows. I'm thinking today is a nymph day. So far, my experience with fly fishing has really just been a lot of tying knots.
Tying knots, of course, with incredible precision. Ow.
I just don't know if my eyesight is good enough.
Well, that worked better than expected.
Guess we're ready to go. At long last, it seems like the rain may have arrived.
Of course, I still don't have a fish.
So, heading back down to the river now.
I know there are fish in this river somewhere. I just don't know where. I've actually done a bit of practice on casting, so hopefully I've figured that out. [music] Sharp. This one is marvelous. I believe that is required in the vicinity.
[music] [music] I think I caught a rock.
[music] Off to a slow start.
[music] [music] Help myself.
>> [music] >> not see that tree. I think this water might be moving just a bit too fast, both for the fish and my fishing skills.
So, I'm going to relocate.
This is all poison oak. Better be careful. [music] you up.
>> All right. Well, I got news. There's somebody else who's out here. That's kind of cool. Also, fishing hasn't caught anything. Bad news is I just hit myself in the back with a hook and it does seem like the weather is officially here.
>> [music] >> Well, no luck on the fishing just yet, but I am motivated to not eat a freeze-dried backpacking meal tonight.
There's a couple other spots I can check out. Unfortunately, for now, the rain has picked up big time. So, I think I'm just going to read this book and see what happens with the weather. this book. Absolutely unbelievable. By the way, thank you, Wes.
Well, it's still definitely raining and I can't say I'm excited about it, but we got some more work to do. High30s and raining is, in my opinion, about as bad as weather gets. I suppose it could turn to snow. That might make things interesting. We are getting on in the afternoon and I still have not caught a fish. I'm going to give it one more try.
Ah, just untangling.
Okay. Okay.
All right.
No.
No. Ah, what was I thinking? Well, here's the situation. My fly is up in that tree somewhere.
Oh, there it is. Oh, no. It's looking like a freeze-dried backpacking meal after all.
Oh dear. Okay, it's stuck.
Well, totally forgot about my firewood, but I'm going to try to light this thing up anyway. Let's just test it.
Not surprisingly, doesn't want to burn.
Just absolutely soaked.
There we go.
Maybe some of this stuff on the bottom.
All right. I think there's something to this.
Okay, last resort fire starter.
Not surprisingly, the wet wood doesn't want to burn, but we got smoke, which means it's still worth trying.
Ow.
Let's go. Well, a roaring fire it is not, but I will take a fire in the rain over no fire in the rain any day. The rain is certainly keeping the flames down, so I just kind of put all the wood around the side to try to get it to dry out. So far, I think it's going pretty well.
I don't recall having ever owned a rain jacket that doesn't get soaking wet within a few wees. Got this one in Japan and it too is no exception. And after all that for dinner, we're having a freeze-dried backpacking meal, of course. Let's see what we've got.
Trash drunken noodles with chicken. Yum. 1 and 1/2 cups of water. 8 minutes. Then another 7 minutes. Okay. With that amount of time, you can basically make beef stew.
Interesting.
Water.
spork. Oh, interesting.
[snorts] 8 minutes. Wish me luck.
All right, it's time. Let's give her a shot.
Okay, smoke in the face is just one of those universally unpleasant things.
Drunken noodles with chicken. Let's see how this is. I think I have an idea before we try it. Quick PSA. rocks slippery when wet sometimes, so be careful. I have been eating a lot of freeze-dried backpacking meals lately.
Some have been very good, some haven't been as good. Drunken noodles with chicken. Let's see.
Yeah, I would describe this as as food.
This is nothing more than food. I rate freeze-dried backpacking meals on the scale of would I get it again to would I not get it again? Yes or no? This This is the worst freeze-dried backpacking meal I've ever had. This is terrible. I would definitely not get this again. I love Asian food. I don't know what this is. This is terrible. And when I say Asian food, I do mean all Asian food. Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Thai. I like it all. Oh, that said, the pairing of drunken noodles with chicken combined with smoke in your face is actually kind of fitting. Now, I may playfully make fun of these things, but you have to admit they are super convenient. Boil water, put it in a bag, no cleanup. I said the other day that I was pretty sure there would be no one out here. And for the most part, that's true. Except for the two people that are camping next to the creek down there.
That's not legal. Don't do that. That creek goes straight into Hchi, which is consumed by two million people. So, they are extra stringent about it out here.
One of the cool things about this location specifically is being able to see the clouds roll over the reservoir.
It is still raining and it is still cold. And in fact, I can see that there's snow up on some of those peaks when the clouds break a little bit.
There's a chance we get snow here. That that'll make it a fun time. Fire is sort of on its last legs. Oh, smoke in the face. Which, to be honest, is just about perfect timing. I'm pretty much done with this drunken noodles with chicken.
Sometimes these things grow on me after the first couple of bites. This is not one of those times. But when I'm in a place that's as incredible as this, food is really not one of my priorities.
Well, I'll tell you what, when that fire goes out, it gets cold fast. For a second there, the rain was letting up. I thought that was going to be the end of it, but it is back with a vengeance.
Today, today was a day. Some moral victories, some moral losses. You had the fire and the fishing. But to be honest, any day in Yoseite is a win to me. One thing I hadn't really thought about is that getting out of this place with all the rain we're getting could be a challenge. There was a ton of water on the trail coming in. There's going to be more going out. Uh, well, I guess we'll find out one way or another. For now, I'm getting back into this book. Thanks again, Wes. You called it. And you I will see tomorrow.
[laughter] Well, good morning. That rain just would not stop it. It It will not stop. This is about as light as it's been in the last 12 hours or so. And there's more in the forecast. Slept fantastic. Sometimes that happens. It takes about 24 hours before you see the real surge in water levels after a rainfall. So, I think the only thing I can really do is pack up as quickly as possible and get out of here as quickly as possible. It never really occurred to me that the hardest part of this was going to be the journey back to the car, but here we are. Tent is absolutely full with water. Trying to mop it up as best I can.
So cold. My fingers are rather numb.
There we go.
Okay. [music] Wet and heavy.
[music] Ah, [music] come on.
[music] There we go.
All right. Well, pretty wet, pretty cold. Better get moving. This bag is heavier than when I began. I think because of all the water. 6 7 miles back to the car. I can see [laughter] I can see some streams that weren't there when I came in. I can see some snow. Looks like we just dodged that.
Snow levels are maybe 1,000 ft above where I am now. Let's get to it.
>> [music] [music] >> I was going to say that even in the pouring rain, despite bad weather, this place is spectacular. [music] But I think the bad weather makes it even more spectacular.
Heat. Heat.
And turns out it was completely fine.
Even a terrible weather weekend in Yoseite is a weekend in Yoseite. This place is just incredible. If you get the chance, you should go. And if you watched to this point in the video, I sincerely appreciate you. I also think you're going to like this video next.
And hit subscribe if you want to see the next one. Thanks for watching.
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