Proper foundation preparation for concrete slabs requires installing a vapor barrier to prevent moisture seepage, placing rebar with dobies to keep it elevated and prevent rust-induced spalling, and positioning anchor bolts within 12 inches of plate ends according to building code requirements.
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We're Starting To Build Out My Property.. Pump House Foundation Prep!
Added:[music] What's going on you guys? Welcome back.
We are out here at my property.
Container's on hold right now. We've got a couple other things in motion.
Permit's almost done for another house.
We've got the pump house that we're taking care of today, though. I've been wanting to pour this thing for a bit. My well is getting drilled. I need to have water storage and I need to have a house for all of my equipment down there. We are missing a finger. It's still there.
It's just broken. But let's go take a walk down there. Talk you guys through what we're doing. Check it out. Stephen and I already went ahead and dug the footings. We hit rock pretty early on, but we formed it up. We're going to talk about squaring it up. make sure that we're level throughout here. And then we have all of our rebar to do, our vapor barrier, which is important on something like this. And then in the next episode, we're going to pour this thing. Now, this building is not all that big. It's 8T by 8T. It's actually 8T1 by 8T1 to where my sheathing flushes out. But we have number three bar all the way around. One top, one bottom. We will do a mat 24 on center both directions. Grid this thing. This here in the middle, big old pile of dirt. We're going to vapor barrier over the top of this. Lap it down. We want to make sure that anything in the ground here doesn't seep up into our concrete slab here. This building is not going to get flooring, but it is going to get drywall. We're going to have our walls framed up, siding on the outside, drywall on the inside. All of my pump equipment will be in here. It's going to be nice. First building on the property, which is awesome. But let's head back up. We got to run to Home Depot real quick, grab our vapor barrier, all of our rebar. We'll come back, grab some tools out, and get to it. By the end of the day today, we should have this thing taken care of, [music] ready to pour. It's the goal at least.
[music] We have a long list of things to get.
We've got to get rebar. We have to get our doies. We need wire tie, a vapor barrier, and um a couple other things.
These are our HD2 holdings. We don't need these on this. We need little Jbolts.
Get those.
Can I jump in here real quick?
Thank you. There we go. Our Jbolts.
And they have none in stock.
Our Dobbies. They hold [music] our rebar up. We could take 10. It's like a 7'6 run. We would bend a 90 2 and 1/2 ft and then run another 10 and just lap it. I don't think that's the end of the world.
I think we just do that.
These will fit in the trailer easy.
I needed a 10 mil plus vapor barrier, but they don't have that here. We'll do it when we do the house, but we're going to get 6 mil and [music] double it up.
6 mil, 28 square foot.
Does that say 6 mill?
>> Yeah.
>> Does it?
>> Yes. moisture barrier six mill >> and what is it? 120 inches. That's 10 foot by Oh, that's perfect. We just double that up.
>> 10 by 20.
>> Yeah. So, we'll take it and just fold it in half and then it'll double up and be 12 mil. We would typically use a viscine, like a yellow product, and that's what we'll use when we do my house. But for the pump house, I'm really not all that worried about it.
So, we're going to do this 6 mil. Double it up. We'll be good.
Perfect.
>> Awesome. Thank you. You as well.
Good thing we got these blue anchor mates to hold up the embeds we don't have.
You guys got to get a dump trailer to where you can haul big material like this.
We're back from Home Depot. Closest Home Depot is like an hour away from here, so we have to be making sure we spend our time wisely. We got some of these little anchor mates. I love these things.
They're for 5/8. They go on the outside of our form board and hold our anchor bolts at a perfect location. We got some dobies, some wire tie. It is 100° out right now.
It is cooking. The rebar that we got Stephen just brought down to the bottom and it is on fire along with that wire.
We got our vapor barrier that's on fire as well. 6 mill right there. We're going to double it up. We should be able to cover this thing and get a nice vapor barrier down. But let's get this stuff down there. Grab some tools out and get to work.
>> Hold on. Put your hand [laughter] Put your hands up >> here. No, I don't [laughter] got one.
>> This is a left-handed glove. It's just the wrong color.
>> Oh, you got a pair?
>> Yeah, I got a pair.
>> Oh, okay. Yeah, that's fine, then.
>> I don't know that my finger is going to fit in this thing. My finger doesn't fit. Cut that finger out.
>> On camera, you can't even tell.
>> No, it looks black. We're good to go. We need to tie up this rebar, get that vapor barrier down. So, it's going to run 8 foot or whatever the length is. It should actually be something like 7 foot six. It'll be like 80 in because we'll stop it here in the middle. And then we'll have a a nice bend there. Do you know where that hickey bar is at? Is it up top?
>> No. Is it down here?
>> It is up top.
>> Okay, I'll grab it.
So many bottles on this property.
>> Sorry, that was mine.
>> Cold filtered. You were drinking tea?
>> No.
>> 1972. How old were you back then?
>> Um, how old were my parents?
>> I don't know. 1972. I think your mom was born in 74.
>> Oh, 75.
>> 75. Yeah. Take it like this.
Throw it in there. Just like so. So that's about where you want to be at.
You take it and you bend it up >> and it's done.
>> What is that thing called?
>> That's called a hickey. You ever had one of those?
>> No.
>> It's good. Respectable young man.
But that's pretty much what it'll be.
And I think we do one here, one there.
We got way too much rebar.
>> We did, huh?
>> But we'll we'll use it. These little guys have wires in the top of them. This is what's going to hold our rebar up off the ground. We don't want any of our rebar penetrating out through the side.
The goal is for rebar to be encapsulated with concrete. We want to keep a separation between the concrete and the soil below to the rebar. The reason for that is with rebar being a metal product, it'll do what we call spalling, it'll start to rust, and when it does, it expands, breaks the concrete apart, and will eventually crumble part of your foundation or start [music] chipping away at that at least. So, these keep us separated.
Put it up right there.
So, we're going to get the vapor barrier in over this thing right here. Drape it across. And then we'll hit the outside bar. We'll do these bars going across here. And we've got ourselves a nice little slab on grade. This is number three bar. I think my house calls for number three as well. Number three is 38 thick. Number four is 4/8. Number five is 5/8. So as you go up, number seven bar is 7/8.
While he does that, I'm not going to put them in yet, but we have to mark out where the anchor bolts are going. So we're going to hook what will be our concrete [music] here since this is the form that our concrete's getting poured into, like a cake tin.
And we know [snorts] that we're going to be 16 centers [music] all the way through.
So that'll be a stud. 32 will be a stud.
And all we want to do is simply place an anchor bolt where we know that it'll work. Pull layout through here. The worst thing is when you have anchor bolts that land on a stud. You want to try to avoid that as much as you can.
So, this is pretty straightforward.
We'll have one there. We'll have one here. And I'll throw one right here. So, we'll have one, two, three anchor bolts.
You have to have an anchor bolt within 12 in of the end of every plate. That goes for any plate you've got. Any exterior plate. You want to make sure that you have an anchor bolt within 12 inches of the end. So, where we've got them right now, we're nine inches in.
We're good to go. So, we'll lay out that same exact way over here.
Now, I've gone ahead and matched layout from that side to this side. In theory, our walls should be identical all the way through. We have a front door going here. We'll have a nice little walkway to our pump house. We're going to have a window right off the back here. And then out of that window, we'll have a bunch of gravel over here and storage for a big water tank. So, front door, back window, storage tank.
So, you don't want to cover any of your rebar, obviously, but this needs to go over the outside.
All >> [snorts] >> right, that'll hold us down. Normally, we would use a sand for that, but to be honest, a pump house like this isn't getting flooring. So, really, it doesn't even need a vapor barrier, but we're putting one anyways. We're looking good. Now, we need to go ahead and tie up an upper bar, and then we'll cross-hatch everything here. In about 30 minutes to 45 minutes, we should be about wrapped up in total. Then, I want to talk to you guys about how we were able to form this little thing up. We made sure it was nice and square. We'll get into that.
And then, we'll talk through our game plan for the next episode when we go to pour this thing. Go over some uh concrete prices. Cuz if you've never ordered concrete out here in the mountains, you may be surprised.
>> No, flip it and put this long one that way.
Yep.
We'll let it overlap a good bit. And then we'll do one more here. We're going to have to cut some rebar. But let me grab some sticks. So then these are going to go across just like that.
>> [music] >> Loop it up just like [music] so.
Now, that's going to hold us up right there. When we go to pour, we'll just take our cutters, cut that right there, remove the nails from here, and then this will pop out. We'll do that all the way around. We're going to elevate this up off the ground, keep it up like this, and then we'll do our crossbarss both ways, and we're looking good.
So now we've got our bottom bar, our top bar. These are 38 with a minimum twoft overlap. Yeah, we've got a twoft overlap.
Why are you laughing?
>> Two foot overlap.
>> Is there an area where we don't?
>> Don't look over there.
>> Don't look over where?
>> It's right in front of you.
>> This one.
That looks like 2 ft to me. All right, we've got number three bar with an 18-in overlap. Realistically, that's about what we would need. So, we have a bottom bar, we've got a top bar, this one's elevated in here, and what we're going to do now, we've got this big mound in the middle here. We could have just dug this whole thing down all the way and had a 16-in deep slab, but that's overkill. That's why we've got this mound here. The perimeter footing is where the weight is going to get transferred from the walls and the roof down onto that. So, we don't need anything here in the middle. It's not supporting anything, but a little bit of equipment. Concrete's going to fill this on the outside here. Top bar, bottom bar. We are now going to cross-hatch all the way through here. Two foot on center. Our number three bar. So, we'll put one, two, three here. One, two, three here. And we are done. Ready to pour.
So now you can see we got a couple dobies in here. I got one more to put in in front of me here. But we have our bottom bar, we have our top bar, we have a cross-hatch section all the way through here. We have number three bar, 24 on center. It's about all this thing needs. The top isn't going to weigh much. We've got 2x4 walls, 2x6 roof, comp shingles, and some siding. So weight wise, this thing's not lifting all that much. As far as cost goes on this, we have one concrete plant in town and I called them up. And when you're doing something like this, it's called a short load. And concrete, anything less than 5 yards, 6 yards, 7 yards, depending on where you're at, will be a short load. Meaning, there's a lot of backend paperwork. You know, you have dispatch, you've got the driver, you've got the fuel, the insurance, everything on that truck. They need to bill you for it. But when you only order 2 yards, they can't get that cost in there. So instead of paying 2 to 250 per yard, you end up paying $3 350 a yard. On this one though, they quoted me $1,40 for 2 yards. So $520 a yard. That's not happening. So what we're going to do to uh help keep our cost a little bit lower, they have what we call a UART at this place around the corner. It's where I've gotten my gravel and stuff. And a Ukart is a towbehind mixer that can hold about a yard. And I'm going to back that thing up. We're going to dump one yard.
And then I have to go back, grab another yard, come back, dump it, then take it back, then come back and finish it. Adds a little bit more work, but it'll be worth it. I'll pay around 400 to 450 instead of over a,000 for this two yard little pore. So, let's go over these little anchor mates right here. We use these quite often. They are a super handy little thing. They've got 2x6, 2x4 labeled on there. So depending on what you're working with when it comes to your wall framing, this isn't what you're attaching to say a 2x6 form, but rather what you have for wall framing.
If you have 2x6 wall framing, you'll put this thing all the way forward like that. And if you have 2x4 wall framing, you bring it back. And what that's doing is centering up the anchor bolt here on your wall. So when you go to put your sill plate down, the center of it is perfect. So we're going to go ahead and use the 2x4.
So, right there. That'll be perfectly centered in our wall and we'll be good to go. I don't have the anchor bolts.
Tried to buy them at Home Depot and they didn't have any available. Well, Home Depot doesn't carry anchor bolts. Said they had 51 in stock. I just don't think the guy wanted to get them for us. But, I'm going to go ahead and lay these out where they go.
We will go grab some anchor bolts, come back, set those, and we will be rocking and rolling. This thing is about 15 minutes away from being ready to pour.
That's exciting.
>> [snorts] >> All right, we're going to go hit a local lumber yard. See if I can grab anchor bolts. Hopefully, they have them. If not, I don't really know what we're going to do, but we need them.
[music] That's 58 x 12. We need 13 of them. $129 a piece.
[bell] Four, five, six, seven.
What Home Depot didn't have a lumber yard actually did. Obviously, the Simpson strong tie section here is a heck of a lot better. Look at they've got our black ties up here that we would traditionally use and smaller ones and the bar twister and everything else in between. Even the automatic twister bars. Look at that. That's cool. But we're good to go.
[music] We got our 5/8 x 12. The guy in there laughed at the fact that we had a camera in there. We got the goods though. Let's head back. Set these things. We'll be looking good.
We're back from the store. We got ourselves some duplex.
Hammering without a finger ain't all that fun. These anchor mates are going on our 2x4 mark here. So, what we're going to do is take off the nut there.
This slides up.
It's going to sit just like that. We're not going to put the nut on there. We're going to set these all the way through here. We want to make sure that we have duplex nails throughout this. And I switched out the dupes on the actual brace holding up the corner. When we start pouring, we want to make sure that everything is easy to take apart. If we just hammer it in with regular nails, we have to get a cat spy out and dig them out.
So 4t 1/2 in center. This is going to be our window back here. We're using a 20 3 0 window. So, it's going to be 2t wide.
That means we're going to be 13 1/2 for our opening. King stud will be here.
Anchor bolt needs to go there.
So, we'll be 31 12 in on both sides.
Center a door. It's going to be a three door. So go 41 inches overall from center and then do one on the outside of that and then do one on the corners this way.
>> You should be 4t half.
>> Yeah. Took me a minute to get that. I'm slow.
And then what what did you want off of that? Uh >> so you have a 3ft door. So it's 36 in plus 5. So you'll be 51 in total. So go 25 and 1/2 both ways.
>> See, I don't know how you pull numbers like that. Like that quick. I mean, >> okay. The rattle.
>> Yep. So then 25 and 1/2 back that way.
That is your rough opening right there.
Right. That 51 in.
>> Yeah.
>> So then you'll have a king stud on the outside of both of those. And then you need an anchor bolt past that. And all that was was just 36 in for the door.
Add 3 in for trimmers. I gave you way too big of a number actually. I'm sorry.
36 is your door. We're just going to run this back as it was fresh. 36. So it's 41.
36 + 5. So 41. So you're going to go 20 and 1/2 in both ways. My bad.
>> 20 and 1/2.
>> 20 and 1/2. That's what I get for trying to do blind math.
>> I was so confident. I was like, you got that done quick.
>> No. No. I'm only as smart as the calculator I use.
>> 20 and 1/2. We're going to discard these.
>> Yep. So then you'll be inch and a half past that. And then you want to be beyond it. 20 and 12. Oh, I was confident in my math too there for a second. Buy him books and send him to school and half. So, that's a king. So, we'll put a How far away you want in the J.
>> Uh, just make it to where it's big enough that you can get everything in without it crunched. I don't know. You can go 4 in past it. The only thing you really need to make sure of is that you're within 12 in of the end of a plate. So, since the door breaks that plate on both sides of the opening, you just need to be within 12 in.
So, we've got all these in now. And it might look like overkill, right? We've got a lot of them in here. We have three on each side. We have four across the back, four across the front. It really is overkill on a building like this, you could probably shoot it down with a Hilty gun and call it a day. The reason that these are in here, per code, we have to have a 10-in minimum inbed.
We're using 5/8 x 12s on this. At the end of every plate, we have a wall from the outside corner. Say here to here is a wall. We have to be within 12 in here and within 12 here. Same thing here to here and there to there. All the way around this whole entire thing. I think we have to have them. And then per building code, 6T for spacing all the way around. Most of our building plans here in California are 4T, but that's about what we are here is for. But we're looking good. We have all of our Jbolts in. We've got our rebar mat tied up.
We're elevated with those dobies. We have a vapor barrier down. All of our bolts are in. Are we ready to pour? Just about. I think we're ready to pour. So, even though that's ready to pour, that's going to happen in the next episode. I want to talk with you guys about where we're at on this property, our current plans. We've had a lot of changes that have been made. We went from having an extravagant 2,000 ft custom home 32t tall up on the top of the property to now we're doing some smaller units. I want to get into my reasoning behind all that. I want to talk to you guys about my permit costs along with my subcontractors that are involved for this project that we're about to go over here. We switched gears due to an engineering cost up above. We went from architectural with the A-frame up there.
Got through with our design. I sent it off to my engineer and he got back to me a pretty hefty steel package and he told me, "Matt, this is the only way this house is working." I sent that off to my steel contractor and I got a quote back of over $100,000 in steel for a 2,000t home. My roof package alone for the house up top was going to be around $140,000.
That is a lot of money. With that said, I didn't want to move forward with it right away. I wanted to build equity on this property and eventually do that up there. For now, we're switching gears.
We're doing a smaller house down here.
We're in permitting right now about a week away from pulling this permit on a 21 that's going smack dab right here. I did a 21 because I couldn't fit anything else here. This is a very small area.
But it's a nice little house. I think we could put the floor plan up on the screen.
But this over here will be living room and kitchen. This is a big box all the way through. Here you have bedroom one over there, bedroom two here, hallway two bathroom in the center there. Nice little 21-1. It's simple. It's clean. It works. But with all that said, I wanted to give you guys a rundown. We have subcontractors lined up on this place for drywall, painting, insulation, gutters, HVAC, electrical, plumbing. I don't have back yet. Fire suppression, temp power. I think that's where we're at right now. So, to get this project kicked off, we need power. We're going to set a 25 ft pole up there at the top.
We have a 200 amp panel going up there.
And then PG& swings power from the top all the way over to that. And then from there, we'll swing from there to my house. Pretty simple. Cost on that $7,600.
That's hefty. That's a lot of money for a pole. My electrical on the whole entire house was $17,800.
My drywall for the inside of the house was quoted out at 14,500. My HBAC package on this house was quoted out at 19,500.
Insulation and gutters was actually a lot cheaper than I was anticipating. My insulation was 3,205.
My gutter cost was $550.
That's cheap. That's beyond cheap. I don't know how they make a profit, right? How do you come in $3,300 and insulate this whole entire house, seal everything up? I don't quite know. 550, too. Like, how do you I don't know.
That's low. My building permits on this house. This video went viral on socials.
I posted it talking about how much I was paying to permit this two-bedroom, one bath here on my property, and people were blown away. Now, this price has changed a little bit. Originally, we were looking at a total cost of over $30,000 to permit this to one. I went back and forth with the county and looked into every possible avenue.
Why is this going to cost so much? They were trying to charge me $19,500 for road fees here. And basically what that means, when you build a house, you're adding people, you're adding a population, you're adding a car driving down the road, emergency services for the sheriff, the fire department, the local library, the parks, everything else. As you up that population, that's how they make their money. Our property taxes also pay that same thing. Since this lot wasn't split as a subdivision, meaning a developer comes in and buys 100 acres and breaks it up into a bunch of smaller parcels, they said that I only had to pay 50% of the road fees.
They gave me a discount. As of right now, my remaining balance on my permit is $20,47 and I've already given them 1,500. So, as of right now, I'm in $21,500 just for the permit for this house. My septic permit, my well permit, my fire sprinkler permit, all was separate. 25,000 all in. We'll go ahead and put everything up on the screen where you guys could check it out. A lot of people were pretty shocked at how much it cost to build a house, especially here in sunny California. We definitely pay to be here. We got the work done that I wanted to. My pump house is about to take shape. Looking forward to pouring this thing. My cost from having somebody else pump it to me going and picking up U-Karts was pretty substantial. So, I'm planning on backing up here and we'll pour this thing in the next episode. But, if you guys have any questions about the work that was done here or anything that we're doing, maybe my permit information, there's a lot going on here. If you have any questions, drop them down below. Make sure to subscribe to the channel.
Hopefully here soon. This thing is built up. My well is drilled. My storage is here and we're breaking ground down below. That would be awesome. Keep learning, keep building, and I'll see you in the next one.
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