When troubleshooting electronic devices, a systematic diagnostic approach is essential: first identify the symptom (e.g., device not working), then methodically test components using appropriate tools (multimeter for electrical measurements, thermal camera for heat detection), and finally replace suspected faulty components. In this case, the Ryobi Lopper OLP1832BX failed despite replacing capacitors and bypassing a shorted diode, because the voltage regulator (78M12G) was not functioning properly, causing the device to draw excessive power and overheat. This demonstrates that electronic troubleshooting requires patience and thorough testing of all components, as the root cause may not be immediately apparent.
Deep Dive
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Deep Dive
Ryobi Lopper OLP1832BX Again, and is all your Fault!! - 1596
Added:Hi, and welcome to my playhouse and to the creepy basement. So, I have climbed I've climbed down here today to uh have another look at this oh at this project.
Let's get some more lights on that the little looper here. The ryopi thing that broke. Um, I have a lot of stuff on the table here. I might need to clean up just a little bit. Um, I got some new drill bits from Lidle. Uh, these are the very big drill bits. These are 16, 17, 18, and 20 mm.
And the other package here is Oh, there are 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 mm. So, um, yeah, uh, they're really, uh, well priced for the size of the drill bits. If I need to go and get one of these drill bits in a professional store, uh, they will probably cost the same as as the whole package here. So, I uh, I got them. I actually got some more. Just a second. Here they are. Uh, there are trill three drill bits here. And these ones, well, these this set uh ends at uh 20 mm. And this next set, three drill bits here. And they are 22, 24, and 25 mm.
And then there is one here with two drill bits in it, big ones. And they are 26 and 28 mm. So, a whole lot of millimeters, but but yeah, little sometimes has some uh some some tools and they are well, they are expensive because when you buy them, you don't need them. But then, yeah, if I need to get just one drill bit, probably one of these drill bits, the very large ones, if I needed to get one of these, it would probably cost more than two packages. And if I go to a real professional store, one of these big drill bits would cost as much as all of this. So, um, yeah, it's probably for about, I think, $50 here of drill bits.
Uh, so it and yeah, one of these might cost that. But back to this thing. I um I got a lot of um suggestions on what to do with this. Well, a lot of suggestions and a lot of criticize criticism for not trying hard enough. So, I thought, well, one of the suggestions was just to try out uh to put some some capacitors in there.
And we might we might do that. I cheated and I removed all the screws. So, it should just come out.
Pretty sure last time it's stuck to the other side.
So there we are.
Okay. So the issue the motor works fine.
The motor works fine. The the mechanism works fine. Switch seems to work. The PCB here seems not to work. Oh, I remembered it as if there were were two capacitors and there's three capacitors.
So, it was suggested that the capacitors might have given up. So, it was very nicely suggested that I should try and swap those out. And someone thought that they saw that they Oh, there's four of them that that they one of them was bulging like and I can't I can't see that.
There you can see the capacitors.
Uh they don't really look bulging to me.
They look rather flat. Well, you know, they deliberately make them weaker on the top so that uh if the capacitor gives up its life, it should put out all the stuff that way so that it doesn't go all over the place. But so it will more control let out all the blue pixies.
So we also have this microscope that oh so we can kind of see what's going on here. And I was looking at this. I couldn't see anything wrong with my bare eyes.
Uh, might be able to get in closer.
Uh what's the limit?
We're looking at this through the magnifying glass.
Yeah. Uh, someone suggested that it could be the the fits, the musetss or whatever these are.
There we have the number of those.
They're a bit dirty.
So, yeah, the transistors doesn't look bulky bulgy to me. So, I might try and measure the the fits here.
Okay. I have Well, I have a thermal camera here and I actually wanted to see what's getting warm and I I cheated a little bit. I started without you and there is actually some warmth near those capacitors. So maybe it isn't uh uh as it looks like.
Let me point to that. Looks like that one is getting warm.
So maybe that one is not doing very well.
So I think I'll try and remove that one.
Could you remind me that all them the negative leaves points this way? Uh, so there.
Okay, I replaced it. Uh, there's a blue one in there. Well, this one was also Well, this one was purpleish. So, this one was 25 W, 220 microfarad.
And well, I had a I had some better ones. These ones are 220 farad, but they are 35 volts. So, ever so be ever so slightly better than the one that I took out. So, I wanted to film what happens when we try and connect this again.
Battery there. Battery.
So, we're going to put the battery in there and got to get a view of everything.
Don't want to miss out the the boom and the bang. So, let's see what happens.
Same thing.
So, that wasn't it. Unfortunately, I have another suspicion.
There's a uh it's not a diode. It's something else. It's a protective thing.
It looks like a diode.
It's a P6 K and it's a protective thing and it's shorted. It measures almost zero.
We are set to ohms. Um, we can't see [ __ ] can we?
The ohms, right?
And if I measure on crush it, it's a 0.6 ohms.
And the other way is also just about the same. So, as it is some kind of a protective thing, I think that I can just cut it. Well, we're going to try that. I'm just going to cut it if it doesn't do any difference there.
And we're going to bend it a little bit out of the way. And if it doesn't do any difference whatsoever, I'm just going to solder it back together.
So, let's see what happens now.
Absolutely the same thing.
Annoying.
Okay, there it's still very warm.
Oh, sorry.
Right around there.
Very very warm. It's it's uh it's 30 33° and very very cold this uh I can't see that.
Oh, max is 35°. Okay.
Um yeah, there is another side to it as well. So on the back uh it doesn't look as warm. So it seems like the the warmness is on the other side.
So it could also be those transis electrolytic capacitors, but it does look like it the one that I just replaced that is the warmest one.
So ah I have put another on the back of it. It's uh it's parallel.
Oh, it's to those two. Those are also 230 microfarad transistors.
So, if those are both dead, I have measured.
They're not they're not uh they're not shorted. So, let's let's see if that does anything.
That's a no. No difference.
So, it's not that.
[clears throat] Oh, I I just realized. Uh, look at the the black and the red wire.
Those are just the the wires coming in.
and those across those they don't really matter. It doesn't they don't do nothing. So that's definitely not it.
Well, if they were shorted, they would do something, but they're not. Um I got some good sparks out of it when I was trying to sort this out. So yeah, not it. Still dead, unfortunately.
Hm.
Okay, it's the next day. I uh I've had a little bit of a think about that this [laughter] and um we have a component on the other side. We have the electrolytic capacitors on this side. And that one still becomes really warm and that thing becomes really warm. So, I'm going to see if I can if I can point this at that and show you if it will Let's see. We have If I press the Let's see. It's It's right there.
So, if I press the button, you see that is that is warming up right there. And we can shut that off again. It looks very dramatic on the thermal camera here. It's not really that warm. It's Oh, it is actually quite warm.
Or is it?
So, you can also see the wire coming in getting warm. Um, so that thing is a wattage regulator.
It's a Let's see. It's a It's a It's a 78 M12G.
There we have it. Is that visible for you? Well, it's upside down, but yes. So there's kind of two options here. One is that it's just supposed to uh well then there's three options. So the first option is that it's supposed to be warm that something else is is drawing a lot of power and it's supposed to be like that. Second option is that this one is broken and it's not doing its job. And the third option is that something on the other side of that wattage regulator is uh is using too much power. And um this is a 12vt wattage regulator and it works that way that you have some kind of power like this one. We have 18 walls here and we feed it with 18 volts and it will supply 12 volt out.
So I have connected to my negative leave here and I have the multimeter here and we can see the voltage and if we connect can I as said there's an input and there's an output.
So if I connect to the to the input of this one at the moment there is absolutely nothing. Can you see the multimeter? I can't see if you can see now you can. So if we press the button we can kind of see the battery wtage right there. 18 19 volts. I'll just kill it. So um input wtage as soon as we press the button. Input wtage is correct. So output wtage is the other leg. I did go and check on the computer and get the schematics for this.
[sighs] So there and right now there are zero walls. The display is a bit dirty.
Zero volts. Let's press the button.
And we get 4.2 two bolts coming out of it. That pretty much tells us that either this is broken or something on the other side is using a lot of power.
So, I just tried it again to see if anything else is heating up on the other side.
And the wires heats up.
Yeah, I'm amazed that that black wire heats up as much as it does.
I don't really get that.
Kind of see that.
Okay, I have cheated a little bit.
I have lifted up this leg on the little U voltage regulator. So, right now it's not connected to the PCB. So, now I should be able to measure if I get 12 volt out this way. Um, if I do, this one is okay and something afterwards is uh is messing up. If I don't, I think this one might be broken. So, um, we are going to measure some wattage there.
Let's start with the Let's start with adjusting the camera so you can see what we're doing.
Let's just there. So, let's press the button.
So it didn't say any sound. So So battery wtage is still 18 volts.
Output is 11.82.
So yeah, uh it might have taken a little bit of damage, but I think it's should still be good.
That's not it.
>> [sighs] >> something after the voltage regulator is using a lot of power and um yeah I don't think I can fix this. I did check the MOSFETs and uh all of them are in in parallel and it seems like they're okay.
I don't think anything is wrong with them. there is uh the right diode uh wattage between the emitter and collector and bases and that stuff. So, so I'm afraid it's another video where we didn't get it to work, but well, it was your suggestions that I tried out.
Um I'm sorry. Uh I would have liked to fix it as well. So yeah, this was just a one of a waste of time, I'm afraid. But thank you very much for watching my video. Do subscribe to my channel so you can see me again. And let's do something different next time, please. No more suggestions on that one. We don't want to waste another video on it. Let's move on. No more suggestions. Stop typing.
Have a nice day. Bye-bye.
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