This video demonstrates how to repair and upgrade a VTOMAN Jump 1800 power station by replacing faulty 5.5mm barrel jacks with XT60 connectors for safer high-current charging, adding a 24V DC input for faster charging, and expanding the battery capacity by connecting additional lithium iron phosphate batteries through the BMS (Battery Management System) to double the total storage capacity from 1,500 to 3,000 watt-hours while maintaining proper voltage balancing and safety controls.
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Deep Dive
Power Station Repair, VTOMAN Jump 1800 gets fixed, hacked & upgraded 2X the battery!
Added:Well, wasn't supposed to have a charger.
Wasn't supposed to have a direct to battery charger, so I can use one of them.
Wasn't supposed to have an expansion like that. 24vt system with doubling the power. But toman, I got a few of them.
This one gave me some trouble. Well, and I fixed it.
Stay tuned. Let's Let's open it up and take a look and see everything. And we're going to show you the whole video of how it got done.
All right, this thing is all blown apart. We're going to show you why in the video. We're going to show you what we done to it. Why this right here is a big freaking deal. It's opposite. This is a 120 amp BMS. Look at all them FETss. Okay, now this is a VTOMAN 1800.
See, there it is right there. 1,800 and is the jump 1800. It says little jump unit right there. And this over here is a 1500. There's their little cables that go to it. All 13 mm of them.
Um, in other words, they short. Um, pretty good unit. Had it for about three and a half years. And the first problem is right here. These little 5.5 jacks, man, they just don't handle it. They never have. I don't know why they ever used them. They shouldn't have ever used them. They should have went to this right here, what I just installed. And I'm going to show you why I did it. I'm also going to show you this part and how it's going to work with that weird BMS to where you can add hundreds of amp hours, hundreds. And stay tuned. So, look below the video for parts. I'll put links to these two units. They're cheaper now. They're better now. They they've definitely been improved, but they're really good quality to have. We use them on the job site. So, stick around. Let's get into it. I'm going to show you from the beginning after opening it what we started with and uh how everything got to where it's at now.
Hey guys, today we have a battomen. It don't really look like one. Not very well. There's its lid.
And it had a little problem. So, we're in here to fix it. But while we're in here to fix it, we're going to do some serious upgrades.
60 amp hour worth. And I'm going to show you how because this one is freakishly different. You're going to see that.
That's the BMS. Anybody who knows about a BMS, what's that color wire? Huh?
It's a little different. So, this one here, I'll get the multimeter.
Has a very weird behavior. Now, it has this wire here that goes up to the front panel right here.
And on the front panel when you hit the power button or any button that then activates the BMS and sends power through back to these terminals.
Okay, those are your positive and those are your negative terminals.
But if you'll notice the positive is going through the MOSFETs going through the BMS 16 in fact. So this is this is and I've done checked the uh version. Well that's pretty good. That means it can handle a lot more charge than 200 and something watts. And we're going to also remedy that. You're going to love that part.
Now, what happened to this unit was we were out on the job and car left it plugged in in the truck because, well, that's what we do.
>> That's what I do.
>> That's what she does. And there's the result.
So, it has a standard barrel jack.
And what I did is I put a little glue in there to keep them pieces separated because that entirely melted. You can almost see the little bottom there. It's just moving around in there. So I actually stuck glue in it. Non dialectric glue inside there. Um non-electric glue, sorry. And that was the result. So she went to the truck to go get it and opened the door and there was a puff of smoke come out of the door >> and we thought, uhoh. So she grabbed it real quick, put it outside. It done its job, but didn't do its job until it damaged this. So, I'm deciding this is month ago. Well, when I get home, I'll do this to it. So, what I've got here is I've got two leads going to the the uh boost section over here. So, that takes your 12 volts and jacks it up and then conditions it. And it's it's basically an MPPPT. So, you can hook solar to it, uh, 240 watts worth of panels, or you can hook a 12vt um, to it, but you can't hook 12vt to it like that, but you will be real soon. So, we're going to make it to where it's less trouble. Um, all those little 5.5 barrel jacks, they're just trouble. They just they can't handle it. Your cords get hot as hell because there's resistance, and that's the problem with them. So, we're going to be putting in an XT60 and it's going to connect to here. And there's where we're putting it in. And then you're going to see what's that right there. What's that? Well, that one is going to actually go in and go straight over here to the terminals and it's going to be used to charge this whole unit. You have, of course, you power it up. And once you start the charge, it'll just stay powered. And that way we can use a 24volt charger for fast charging. It can handle it.
So we're going to be able to put a 10 amp charger on it.
Fast charge. And for one of these, that's fast charge, guys. Okay. Now, their little plugin duad that they give you, their power brick to charge it with only charges at about 181 watts. It sucks. And it won't help if you're hooking this battery to it. And if you're saying like, "Wait a minute, John. You just said that's a positive BMS." And that little switch that goes to that board right there, unless it's turned on, it's not going hold on. Hold on. Now, they don't call me Dr. Hack for nothing.
Oh, I wonder if I No. Um, >> no.
>> No. So, what I'm going to be doing is here's the BMS for this battery. And these are prismatic, guys. They're prismatic cells in here. Quick, spin it around. There's your pretty blues. Nice and flat prismatics right there. All right. So, there's eight of them in there. It's a 8S system. 24vt lithium iron plastic. All right.
The fascinating part is that until you power up something on the board, this thing here don't turn on and send power to these two terminals which land here and here on the inverter. So you'll see there VIN volt input, volt negative and volt positive. Now let's get over here and I'm going to show you this little funny part.
Here's the voltage of our system.
Get that down there. 26.2.
You get that clear?
>> Mhm.
>> All right. But here here's here's the crazy part. You see that lug right down there? This is part of your jump because this is the BTOMAN 1800. See how there 1800 jump 1500 watt hour unit. But I'm going to go into that positive and it's only pulling from one side. 4S from one side. But the funny part is you see that little pin right there. When you plug in your jumper and you hit the little go button on it, it sends the whole battery 24vt. It connects the whole thing. So you get an instant 24volt output, but as soon as it comes out, it shuts it back off. But what that does is that gets your car battery cooking a little bit. And that's how it works. And then it just stables out right there at 13.1. See?
Or whatever full charge your battery is in here. So even if this unit is low, it's going to start your car. It's kind of cool. But they send you with a cable that's like this long, which to me is just a freaking insult. Okay.
>> Yeah, >> but these have been really good. That's a built well-built board. Look at the look at the uh look at the transformer in that sucker. You see that? That is a hell of a well-built board. And they use Scon uh capacitors in it. They use good quality. Okay. All right. Output of this 112 volts. It's not the greatest, but we run grinders on it. And that's why we carry these with us. That one over there, while this one's charging, is also being used. But when you leave it plugged in and it melts and then nothing now works, neither one of these work.
Well, what do you do? You get in here and you tap it. And now it does work.
We've already tried it. It works. It now charges again. But it's going to only charge when I install the little 60 through the panel right here. Now, this will be installed for the 24volt charger so that we can charge the battery right here. So, there's there's plenty of room coming out the front.
This all decorative crap. I don't worry about that. I ain't worried about this.
I think I know what the hell that is.
So, we're going to have the solar and auto input here and the charger special charger that can go in right there. Now, if this battery is designed properly, I should have no problem connecting this to here, these up here from this. And I should have no problem connecting this to here. And the power going through back through the connections that are already here, which is this one right here. See that?
and see where it goes. It goes to the BMS. You see that? Goes to the negative, which is just open and free. And it goes to the BMS to go through the switches.
So, there's a voltage monitor right there. And then it allows it to travel through. Pretty simple. And when it travels through, it goes right back to here. Well, that's pretty easy. That means that these two points are hot and live all the time. This is switched.
Well, what do I do? Well, my batteries have already already got a BMS inside.
It's already in there. So, if I allow this to do the charging of those batteries, guess what?
It's only going to charge until this shuts the power off coming back. That's it.
It just because I'm connecting here before the BMS here and here before the BM. Just because I'm doing that won't mean anything because the BMS in these batteries will not allow anything more than what this was given. When this is no longer giving it coming through here to here, it'll no longer send it to here.
But both sets of batteries batteries in here and these will just stay connected.
A volt is a volt. They don't know they're there. They don't know any difference. The difference is is that the capacity meter might be a hair off.
It may take a few 0 to 100 cycles to figure out that it has more capacity because that judgment call actually happens um inside the control board here. It doesn't happen anywhere else. It happens here. So when it makes that judgment call of how much power it has, it follows how much was charged in. And when you take these both down to zero and back up charging through this to here to here, when it shuts off, it shuts off here. Even if this is even if these batteries only hit 99.87%, they're going to stop charging. And that's what we're connecting. So, we'll have this one here, which is 8 gauge silicone wire, good for close to 50 amps. And we're going to be putting that probably here in the back cuz there's lots of space. And we'll be able to plug this into it. Literally taken a 1500 watth unit and added 1,500 watt hours to it for over these uh um $104 a piece for 208 bucks. When the expansion battery they sell with this is the same as this battery, but it's 450 bucks.
And this that expansion battery actually has to do the same thing that this is doing, but it does it through right here. You see there's that lead.
You see that? There's the shared terminals. It's the same thing. So, what we're going to do to it is basically the same thing as the expansion battery. The problem we have is is that you can't use that terminal for an expansion battery that's not signal operated. If I don't have signal generation from that, you see where it's at? It will not turn this thing on. So, in other words, it'll just bypass it and all the load will try to go through the fake expansion battery instead of the factory one that's adjusted.
So, we're just going to skip all of it.
Hook into there. All right. So, let me get these things cut out. I'll show you more about this thing in a minute. It is so easy to take apart, guys. Four bolts.
The lid comes off. The sides go like that. Be careful. They got fans plugged in. The sides are interchangeable.
Depends on where your wire is located at where it plugs in right up in here into the board. There's one goes here and there's one goes here for your fans.
And then this is going to your light in the back right there. So, you want to unplug all those. Now, the big thing that that I had to do is I didn't have the inverter removed. Couldn't see where these wires went. So, I just snipped them and added some extension on them. But if you mark them first like I did. So, I just took a black pen, made some marks on it. If you mark them first, pull your inverter first. Remove them screws or the four screws holding here. That's these black ones.
You remove those four screws. and then remove these four screws and lift straight up. And you can get to these and unsolder them and then put them back. As far as the rest of these plugs, it's really simple. It's a bigger plug and a smaller plug. Smaller plug, bigger plug. Um, right here, you got your black AC wires. You see these here and here.
There's I marked them B when I pulled it off. There's your black ones. There's your red ones. And no, it does not have a ground.
90% of these don't have a ground. Just a just a courtesy so you can use your regular plugs.
All right, as you kind of saw in the very beginning of the video before we got into the destructive parts, now we have a 24volt input to go to the batteries. And before you go wonder worry all crazy, all right, don't do that. It's not necessary. This is going to go in just like this. It's going to dodge underneath the inverter cuz see these standoffs? That inverter is higher. And it's going to come around here like so. And yes, it is going to hook up straight to the battery cells down here. PreBMS. Now, that's not normally how you do it.
But in this case, the way this is set up and how it functions, it's going to work fine. And the reason it is is because I'm not going we're not going to charge these. And don't ever do that. If you do this, don't do that. Don't charge If you're going to charge, well, then you got to connect to the inverter lugs right here so that this BMS can control on, off, and all that. And then you have to put in the switch, which you know, that works for the bigger systems, but this is a little one. Um, even though it's 120 amp BMS sitting in here, we want to allow it, even though I mean it's it only gives you a maximum charge um of about 200 watts, but that's this board here. That's the limit. But this battery, that BMS is not the limit. Do you understand? It's not the limit. I can go 50 amps into this backwards. It's not going to hurt it.
But for these two, they're going to go right here. And the reason they're going to go there is real cut and dry. They're going to go there simply because that is not going to be a problem. Since the charge comes through here, will go out and go there. In other words, we're not charging that which will be pushing against these unregulated cells. So the cells when they've been regulated, okay, with the resistor burnoff, what's going to happen, and these are pretty good size resistor for burnoff. What's going to happen is you're going to end up with whatever this was settled at being what you get over here on this side. That simple. So you have to have a BMS in the system, and that's what's going to maintain these batteries. And as long as I don't add charge to those, everything's fine. So there's your system right there.
It's going to go in. We have this board done. Now, over here on this one, we have the charge. So, this is the 24volt charge coming in from that charger to go over here. And I'm using high temperature appliance wire. So, this is 12 gauge high temperature appliance. No problems. Over here, we're also using um this is 14 gauge going into here, which is about six times stronger than what that was. Okay. So, I've got all my wires laid back and everything ready.
And the way that we're going to be able to hook this up is we drop this over here like this.
And we set that one in there just about like that. Now, you want to have all your wires out of the way, not not in a spot for trouble. And in my case, I'll be connecting my negative.
I'll be connecting my positive for my jump box parts right here. I'll of course put my plug back in and I have my 120 volt that goes to the inverter and everything once it gets over here. Okay.
So, we're going to get the inverter um these these cables all hooked up and then we'll worry about this last because we don't want to kick it on. You understand? So, we want the inverter on there and then we'll plug this in because it might fire up on its own which we don't want it to do. And so, this plugin will go in this one. So, if we can go ahead and get this plug put in.
Okay. So, we got that plug in now because this one doesn't matter right here. We'll be able to get that one in if we want to right there. But, I'm going to start out by getting over here and getting these in.
Okay. I'm going to make sure I get my screwdriver well magnetized. Make sure it's good. Still picking up well. See?
And we're going to get our negative on over here.
We go under that wire.
Now, the battery is turned off right now.
Now, I'm not going to crank that down yet. I'm just going to get in there enough to where I can still kind of move things around. Okay. We'll get my other one. We'll get our other positive over here. Now, remember these two little wires right here. We got to put them together after the fact.
Okay, we're going to put these two together right there. We're leaving that one disconnected because we don't want to power up anything. So this and this stays disconnected till the very end.
Now you'll see my wires over here. These go to the lugs on the inverter. So when that 24volt charge comes through, it's going to go pass through the normal process like this will. This is passing through a normal process by going through that ground right there and over here. They're switched. Okay. So we want to make sure everything is good and cop static. No problems. Looks like it's good. Don't bend that wire. So when the fan goes in, see it's not going to block the fan.
and do the same thing with this one here.
Now, this slips in around these.
See, it's keyed in right here and keyed in right there. So, we want to make sure we get that in. We're going to get uh zip tie for it.
Want to make sure it stays under the inverter. So, I'm going to put a zip tie around it.
So the in the uh assembly of this is just kind of the reverse technically of what you started with.
Okay. So there we go. That's in there good right there. That ain't going to matter for nothing in there. All right. So over here we're going to come up. I'm going to thread it through everything.
And it's going to go right here.
>> Okay.
>> Where? right here. Right.
>> I see it >> there. Okay. So, let's get that ready to go on.
I just want to let that loose. You see that?
All righty. Probably want to go underneath that control wire right there.
There we go. All right. So, this will be the negative going on that. And I have grabbed longer screws because I'm putting more on. So those are about 2 mm longer.
Let me see if I can hold that. Hold this one up. Huh? Hold that wire. There you go. Sometimes you need a second hand, guys. All right. There we go.
Now that wire can come loose because this one will go under that one.
Take that screw out.
And what we're going to do is put this one underneath that one on top. And then the other one back on the top of it.
I got my screw already mounted in the screwdriver here.
Just like that.
We'll put that one back up top.
Okay.
Now we'll take this little screwdriver here to get them centered.
There we go.
And magnetic screwdriver is your best buddy in this case. So you see how that is now.
All right. Good. Now we're going to repeat the process over here on the positive side. Okay.
Loosen that a little bit.
See how that wire is tucked down in here?
>> Mhm.
>> It's a lot of flexibility. It's silicone wire. It's very resistant to problems.
Pretty fire resistant, too.
And you see how I bent the uh terminal.
You can buy pre-bent terminals, too. So, I've pre-bent that.
>> It's easy. You just use a pair of pump pliers or needlense. And >> yeah, >> all right. So, we'll get that. Now, this positive probably shouldn't jump off anywhere.
There's it screwed gone.
There's it new one in.
Then we'll take these little needlense here so I can control that thing going down.
And for this one, I'll just mount it right on the top because I don't have that other that remember that positive is a switch side of this BMS, guys. And that's it's a little unusual to see that, but it's how it's rigged.
All right. So, now we have 24 volts back here.
as it should be. Of course, you see the square side up here. So, positives up top down there in the bottom.
26.2 volts. There we go. All right. So, that's a good run. Now, there's plenty of room left in here for the inverter.
So, our next move is we're going to fire up the little soldering iron so I can solder those and then put the little shrink tube over them. Y'all look below the video to that. Man, that little LDK with the adjustable temp is the coolest freaking little soldering iron. I wish I would had this when I was radio shacking back in the days. All right, so what I did is I marked with some black marker. See it on the end of this one wire and I didn't mark the other. So that tells me now which ones I need to mess with. Okay.
And then I'll solder that one. And then over here on this this one, we'll just kind of do the same identical thing. And there shrink tube. See it right here?
The little green tube already down there. So that this little control wire gets put back into action because this actually does work. It works great as a little jump box. Okay.
Now, I just plugged that thing in. Look at this. Look how freaking quick. I I can't even believe it myself how good this little soldering iron works.
It was cheap, too. I think it's like 20 bucks for that whole kit. It's a big huge kit. Huh. Kira, look. Uh I grabbed Kira. So Kira has one, too.
>> Yeah, I do. We both We both Mine's Mine's in a green bag. Hers is in a blue. But see see all the stuff comes with it.
This will blow your freaking mind. Got the solder sucker on there. You got your different uh blades and stuff and adapters or fittings. And this thing here, little pad there. It even has somewhere in here was a bunch of um solder tape. So >> has this little stand >> wick, sorry, solder wick. A little stand. So for the price, hell, I couldn't buy I couldn't even buy a fake weller for that price. and well worth it. Well worth the money. So, as you can see here now, it's a little bit a little bit under pressure because there's a gang of wires down in there. So, I'm just going to make sure that that's not holding it back. And then you can see it all clicked together. See? So, it's clicked together. It's nice and in there. There's nothing touching. This is all the plastic case around the battery.
Nothing's going to short out in it. And it's looking perfect. So, we're going to check the tension now on any of these I might have loosened like that one.
So, if I loosen them, I want to make sure I tighten them or check them.
All right, that solder's already been cooled off enough now to do that. We're going to pull that up over the top of it.
Fold that little wire down.
We'll just cover it up like so.
Okay. And then, like every good electrician always has a lighter.
It's not just for he can smoke into the wacky tobaci things. It's actually for this, believe it or not.
>> Well, I probably ain't.
>> It's not just for your existential crisis.
>> No. So, we'll get that in there like that. All right. And then I've got some some hightemp poly tape. We're going to put it down here over the positive like that other one was.
There's tape on it just in case one of them little wires gets out of hand and it don't like it.
Okay. So, there you go. It's around that bolt right there. We want to make sure that's covered. So, how how difficult was that? Pretty simple. So, now before we put the inverter on there, let's go ahead and check it to make sure nothing has turned on the battery.
Okay. So, we have our negative over here and our positive over here. And the battery is not on. You see that? Pretty good. That means there won't be an arc or a spark when we drop the inverter on.
So, I'm going to pull these wires forward and out of the way.
There we go. The next step is the inverter.
All right. So, inverter is pretty simple. We have a shield that goes in over the top of the BMS. Want to drop that in place. It has these little pegs it fits on. Make sure the rest of your wires ain't trouble here.
Okay, we're going to drop in that inverter.
Right there. Now, make sure it goes down nice and clean. There we go. All right.
So, the inverter's in there. Give it a little rocky back and forth so you know it's been centered. And then we have the screws for it.
Make sure everything is down. There we go. Click down. Click down. And if you'll look over here now, you'll see the wires. See that? Look under here.
Look under here.
>> Okay.
>> Plenty of clearance. Got it.
>> Yeah.
>> All right. So, we have no problems with how we design that.
I don't like to shoot these down with this cuz that plastic will split. So, >> normal people use a screwdriver. Now we're going to plug in the plug in the back for the lights.
There we go. Everything else looks good.
Looking good. So, don't crack your inverter board, guys. Just touch them down. Nice. Don't crack it. We're going to show you this thing fully powered up here in just a second, too. Now, the last thing that'll go on here is going to be the shroud. Okay, you want to make sure you have a nice long screwdriver cuz some of them are coming in at some steep angles like right there.
And they're little bitty screws. Don't lose them. Don't drop them into your stuff because not good. We're going to go in with the first power wire, which is going to be the negative.
And you'll see here this is for that 24volt charge. Okay.
All right.
That way, this one right down here, right down here, sends that power from a regular 24volt lithium ion charger sends it into this part that's controlled by the BMS. Okay? And you just want to make sure that you've powered your unit up when you do this.
What have we done to this? We have literally taken this inverter, this power station, and we've converted this power station into multi-option.
Lots of option. So, you can do all kinds of stuff. Stuff you couldn't have done before, guys.
Get this plug out of here. Hold on. That one goes over here. And we actually fire this thing up, but it'll be no fans.
I don't want to add power to this board until I'm ready, though.
Okay, that's this right here. Okay, I can add power right there when I'm ready. We're going to go ahead and get our AC power lines in.
That's a red on your left, your black on your right, and it's actually, believe it or not, that's your common.
See wider blade. The reds went to that side. So, don't get confused. All right, then. So, that little key right there is important.
It locks in there and here. And then right here, you'll see how it grabs the panel in the front there. Almost requires four hands to do this crap, but All right, there we go. That's it. Now, we'll get fan plugged in, which is right here. See that outlet?
Get that out of the way of that. Drop it in. Now, let's get the other side. Won't be as difficult as that one. This one here was a lot more trouble.
Always doing do the bad one first. Where other way? Good.
So, if you're just taking one apart to do basic maintenance or cleaning on it, it will go easier the one I've just done. All right. All right. So, I'm going to get that long screwdriver and work them wires out of the way.
They got to be long enough to be underneath the fan. There we go. All right. Yeah. Make sure that they're You see them wires? They have to be long enough to end up under the fan. Okay.
So, now you can see all the seams are tight. We'll get the last little fan plugged in.
And then with the lid off of it, we'll be able to run a full scale test on it.
There we go. We should be powering back up. It says low battery right there.
20%.
Remember these little screws here? Those are the extras that we didn't need because I used bigger stuff over there.
And then right here, we're going to go ahead and plug it in over here. I'm going to turn the DC on.
This one's fully charged and we're going to see.
You'll be the first.
Does it charge it? Click. Now, now this thing only charged at about 90 watts and that was it.
nothing more cuz it was losing power through resistance.
It only charged at 90 watts.
Now, that's a regulated 12.8 volts. You hook this up to 13 volts, it's going to charge at a much higher rate than that. Now, in the truck, with the truck running, it would hit about 95 watts. That's it. Now, if the truck's running, look what we got.
Pretty cool, huh?
Okay. Well, we see that that works.
Let's try this other part.
Turn the AC on.
Listen to her blower little fans.
Now, I'm not going to be able to hook the battery up to her, and we'll come right back here in just a second. But I won't be able to hook the battery up until we literally have um this at 100% charge and those batteries at 100% charge because I don't want to cause trouble. Okay. So, what I've got rigged up over here is I've got the little clips that come from the charger going into this plug that has a XT60 male on it. So, now we're going to get that set up. Now, come over here and I'll put this in. And we're going to disconnect the charge from here. Let's get our amp meter on here so we get a clue what's going on with it. And if I blow this up, guys, I'm not out dig nothing. I'm just going to say, "Whoop, don't do that. We're putting in 10 1/2 amps at 29 volts." There you go.
All right, guys. I have brought the charge up on this unit right now. Here, I'm just get the USB so you see 99%.
Okay. And you have to hit that twice to activate. So, all right. Now, over here, we have Kier's voltage box that she put together, and we're going to pull wattage through it. Now, over here, we're going to check voltage. So, we want to match them. I have the batteries hooked up. See this? The batteries are hooked up right here through the back.
And we're going to check voltage. So, we want to be as close as possible. 26.7.
You see over here?
>> Mhm.
>> And we want to look over here. And we want to see what we got here. 26.9.
All right. So, we want to match that.
And being 99% right now, it's close. So, we want to make sure we get to an equal voltage. And then we're going to throw the breaker connecting this extra uh 100%. So now 200% total of storage capacity to this unit. So we just want to make sure they're balanced cuz whatever this BMS will send is what it will share and we just want to keep it at that rate. All right. So right now we're at 26.8 eight over here and still 99% and it's showing it uh 04 hours away. Okay. Um so soon as I get this balanced, we'll be right back. And I'm going to flip the switch to that. See the charger going in. It's pulling a lot more power. So instead of 90 watts or 75 watts, pulling 105 right now. And the battery it's hooked to is actually, see here, it's only 12.25.
It's a low battery. And I'm actually pulling almost full power out of here.
If I hook this up to a higher power battery, it's going to pull about 120, which is unheard of for these. They they don't do that. Um 87 to 90 is like max in the 12vt arrangement. So there you go. So it's going to charge faster now since it's not being withheld. And we're going to show you this battery here set up here pretty quick. So let me get it balanced out and I'll be right back.
We're going to show you that both of them same voltage and then connect.
So let's see what we got here. Try that again.
269 >> almost.
>> So it's just I say that's close enough.
All right. So what we're going to do is we're going to throw this switch. And now we've connected these batteries through here to right there on the actual uh bus bars that are on the cells. Okay. PreBMS. Now over here, it's doing a little bit of balancing. It's about an amp. Not bad. Not a shock to the system whatsoever.
Over here, it's not pulling hardly anything. So, we'll go ahead and disconnect that. Now, we're going to show you that. That was a brilliant thing. These things right here, you see the chargers that come with them. These things are freaking horrible. They're just horrible. They get to about 250 to 300 degrees in temperature. They'll melt anything you set them on and they pull 25% more power than they put out. Their efficiency is horrible. So, you're better off either using a buck boost um that's a um uh 24volt 12volt DC to 24volt uh 10 amp than you are anything else cuz that way you can get the max 240 volt or 240 watts in here. Um in my case, we're just going to let this charge, leave it plugged in all the times. As long as it stays plugged in, it stays lit up, stays powered, got about it just always works. Now, we're about settled down even Steven with it. I'm going to plug in. Here we go. Plug in the big vacuum and you're going to get to see how much power it's going to pull from those batteries. Now, sometimes it'll be higher or lower.
Depends on the saturation of the batteries. This thing is only going to allow it. This thing here is only going to allow these battery cells in here to get to about 99% max. So, these will never exceed 99%. The result is you get a longer life batteries hitting 100% all the time. that says 100. It's not because you just read it. You just seen it's basically right at 20. What? 27.
So, we're going to hit the power.
And now that shows you how much it's pulling from these batteries straight into the cells of those batteries.
That's being controlled by the BMS of this unit only. Just the voltage is. And this one here is controlling its own amperage and voltage and balancing. This controls its own amperage and voltage and balancing. So, it's kind of a backwards way, but being that that's a positive on BMS, it made it easy.
So, now you're going to see it's going to continue to do this as it balances out. It'll also tell you the health of your cells, how fast this happens. So, it's happening pretty fast. These are pretty healthy. And um not bad for a couple hundred bucks. So, I can take and put now uh our plug over here. See, we're down 99. Let's see. Sometimes these won't charge until they get like 94% or something. Let's see if it does.
There we go. Power. Then it's going to change this over. It'll drop this. This will drop a lot faster. And it'll show how much power it's going to also send over here. So, that might take a second cuz they're still balancing.
It's actually happening pretty quick there. We're getting down now to where they're almost totally balanced.
There it is. Positive now. It's running positive charge to these. and it'll eventually work its way up. So in previous test on this, it got all the way up to a little over 2 and 12 amps.
So it was giving 2 and 12 amps here and three over here because it's remember conversion loss.
It it takes probably to charge all this up would take 3 days. Now if I put 250 watts of solar on here, it'd take you know maybe one day of good sun. But not a bad thing for such a very cheap unit that's got a good inverter. It's got good power. It's got actually good quality batteries and is not hard to work on.
So, we drop all them in.
Let it keep charging. You see over here now it's at 6 amps input.
It's probably a little higher than that because there was a negative curve on the zero out on that. So, we're sealing up and we're done.
there. I hate these things.
I'm the one buying the batteries. Keep warning me.
All right. So, look at that now.
79.
And if you just start out from zero, it basically if you run this all the way down till it's dead and then run it back up and do it a couple of times, that meter will then basically equate the entirety of the charge of this setup and you won't have no problems. What do you guys think, man? The Toman, did it get hacked, repaired, or both? Y'all let me know below and y'all be good.
>> Yeah. Got to feel it in your soul.
When the hood drops and the power starts, spark something new in everything you do.
Throw the switch.
Just take your best shot and give it what you got.
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