What Gets Destroyed in an EMP? (And How to Protect)

Added: 2026-05-27

[00:00:00]Let's talk about something most people completely ignore.

[00:00:03]Electromagnetic pulse events, EMPs, are one of those threats that feel distant and theoretical until they're not.

[00:00:10]And by the time most people start thinking about protection, it's already too late. Today, I want to break this down properly.

[00:00:17]No fluff, no fear-mongering.

[00:00:20]Just practical, straight-to-the-point information about which electronics are vulnerable, why they're vulnerable, and exactly what you can do right now to protect them. Whether you're a complete beginner or you've been prepping for years, there's something in here for you.

[00:00:34]So, let's get into it. Understanding the threat first.

[00:00:38]Before we talk about protection, you need to understand what you're actually protecting against. An EMP is essentially a burst of electromagnetic energy.

[00:00:46]It can come from a nuclear detonation high in the atmosphere, a solar event, or even a purpose-built EMP weapon. The energy radiates outward and interacts with anything that can conduct electricity.

[00:00:58]That's the keyword, conduct. If something can carry electrical current, it can potentially pick up EMP energy and be damaged by it.

[00:01:06]Now, there are actually three distinct phases of a nuclear EMP event. They're called E1, E2, and E3. Each one behaves differently and causes different types of damage. E1 is the fastest. It arrives almost instantly and is the most destructive to solid-state electronics.

[00:01:24]E2 follows shortly after and behaves somewhat like a lightning strike. E3 is slower, but lasts longer, and is responsible for damage to the power grid itself. Knowing this matters because different protective strategies address different phases. A solution that handles E1 won't necessarily handle E3.

[00:01:42]We'll cover all of that as we go.

[00:01:44]Category 1, modern solid-state electronics.

[00:01:48]All right, let's talk about which devices are most at risk. The first major category is anything built around modern solid-state electronics.

[00:01:56]Think about your smartphone sitting on your desk right now. Think about your laptop, your tablet, your smart TV, your router.

[00:02:03]These devices operate at extremely low voltages internally. The microchips inside them are designed to work with tiny precise electrical signals.

[00:02:12]When an EMP hits, it induces voltage levels far beyond what those chips can handle.

[00:02:17]The components fry. Sometimes it's immediate and total. Other times it's subtle damage that causes failures days or weeks later. What makes modern electronics especially vulnerable is how miniaturized everything has become.

[00:02:30]Older electronics from decades ago used larger components that could tolerate more electrical abuse.

[00:02:36]Today's chips are incredibly small and incredibly delicate. Your car is also in this category. This surprises a lot of people. Modern vehicles are essentially computers on wheels. Your engine management system, your anti-lock brakes, your transmission control module, all of it runs on solid-state electronics. A strong enough EMP could leave your vehicle completely dead on the side of the road.

[00:02:59]Even devices you think of as simple, digital clocks, microwave ovens, modern washing machines, contain electronic control boards that are susceptible. The point is the list is longer than most people realize.

[00:03:12]Category two, anything connected to long conductors.

[00:03:16]The second category is a little less obvious but just as dangerous.

[00:03:20]It covers anything that's physically connected to a long conductor. Here's a simple way to think about it. When you plug something into a wall outlet, you're not just connecting to the outlet, you're connecting through that outlet to the wiring inside your wall, through your breaker panel, out to the utility lines running down your street, and then to miles and miles of power grid infrastructure. That entire network of wiring acts like a giant antenna. It picks up EMP energy efficiently across huge distances. Then it funnels all of that collected energy directly into whatever is plugged into your wall. This is actually one of the primary ways electronics get damaged in an EMP event.

[00:03:55]The device itself might be reasonably shielded from radiated energy, but the power cord becomes a direct pipeline for conducted energy coming in from the grid.

[00:04:05]This is also why whole house protection matters so much. If you only protect individual devices, but leave them plugged into an unprotected grid, you're leaving a massive vulnerability open.

[00:04:16]We'll get to the solutions shortly.

[00:04:18]Phone chargers, desktop computers, refrigerators, televisions, anything with a power cord running to the wall.

[00:04:25]All of these fall into this category.

[00:04:27]And the longer the conductor they're attached to, the more energy they can potentially receive. Solar panel arrays with long wiring runs also fall into this category.

[00:04:36]Many preppers invest in solar setups specifically for post-disaster power, and then completely neglect to protect those systems from the very threat that might cause the disaster.

[00:04:46]Keep that in mind. Category three, devices with antennas.

[00:04:50]The third category is devices that have antennas built in.

[00:04:54]And this one makes sense once you think about it.

[00:04:56]An antenna is specifically designed to capture electromagnetic energy from the air and convert it into an electrical signal. That's its whole job. Two-way radios, ham radios, walkie-talkies, cell phones, GPS devices, all of these have antennas on them.

[00:05:12]The front end electronics of any antenna equipped device are engineered to detect incredibly weak signals and amplify them. We're talking about signals that are measured in microwatts or even less.

[00:05:23]Now imagine that same front end circuitry suddenly receiving an EMP pulse.

[00:05:28]Instead of the tiny signal it's designed for, it's receiving a massive burst of energy. The amplification components, transistors, diodes, low noise amplifiers, they get overwhelmed instantly. They burn out.

[00:05:41]This is particularly painful because antenna equipped devices are often exactly the tools you'd want to have working after a disaster. Ham radio operators could become critical communication nodes in a grid down scenario.

[00:05:53]GPS devices could be essential for navigation.

[00:05:57]Two-way radios let groups coordinate.

[00:06:00]If these devices are destroyed by the EMP, you lose a lot of post-event capability. The good news is that protecting these devices is very straightforward. And since most of them are portable, you have a lot of flexibility in how you store them.

[00:06:14]Hey, if you're getting value from this, drop a like, leave a comment, and subscribe. It helps more than you know.

[00:06:20]Protecting small portable electronics, EMP bags.

[00:06:24]Okay, so now that we know what's at risk, let's talk solutions.

[00:06:28]Starting with the simplest and most accessible option for most people. If a device is small enough to carry and doesn't need to stay plugged in, you can protect it by storing it inside a conductive shielded enclosure.

[00:06:40]The concept is called a Faraday cage, a conductive shell that blocks electromagnetic fields from passing through it. For small devices, the most convenient implementation of this concept is an EMP bag.

[00:06:51]These are also called Faraday bags or shielded bags.

[00:06:55]They're available from several manufacturers and come in a range of sizes and quality levels. A good quality EMP bag will be multi-layered. The outer layer provides physical protection.

[00:07:06]The inner layers are where the shielding happens. Typically, multiple layers of conductive material that attenuate the electromagnetic energy trying to pass through. You simply place your device inside the bag, seal it properly, and set it somewhere safe. That's genuinely all there is to it.

[00:07:23]The energy that makes it through the bag shielding is reduced to levels so low that your electronics are effectively safe. When shopping for EMP bags, pay attention to the shielding rating.

[00:07:33]This is measured in decibels of attenuation. Higher numbers mean more shielding.

[00:07:38]A bag rated at 80 dB of shielding is significantly better than one rated at 40 dB. Don't just buy the cheapest option and assume it'll do the job.

[00:07:47]Also, pay attention to the closure mechanism.

[00:07:50]A bag that doesn't seal properly defeats the purpose entirely.

[00:07:54]Velcro closures can be effective if properly designed. Roll-top closures work well.

[00:07:59]Zipper closures need to ensure electrical continuity along the entire zipper length to be effective. There are also less expensive options that look similar to heavy-duty Mylar bags. These can be perfectly adequate if used correctly. The key is to fold the top over multiple times and tape it securely, or use a zip seal closure that closes completely. The seal is where most lower-end bags fail. What should you keep in these bags?

[00:08:23]Think about the small electronics you'd most want to have functional after an EMP.

[00:08:28]A backup handheld radio, a spare cell phone, an older simpler GPS device, a battery-powered flashlight with LED components, a small battery bank, perhaps a backup hard drive with critical documents. Keep these in bags and stored somewhere you can access them quickly.

[00:08:44]Building an ad hoc Faraday cage for medium-sized items.

[00:08:48]Some electronics are too large for a bag, but still need protection. For these, you can build what's called an ad hoc Faraday cage using common, affordable materials.

[00:08:58]The most popular approach is to use a galvanized metal trash can. These are readily available at hardware stores.

[00:09:04]They're inexpensive, and they're actually reasonably effective as Faraday cages if prepared correctly.

[00:09:10]The concept is simple. Metal conducts electricity. When EMP energy hits the outside of the can, it distributes across the conductive surface, rather than passing through.

[00:09:21]The interior of the can is shielded.

[00:09:23]Anything inside is protected.

[00:09:25]However, there's an important detail most people miss. The lid is the weak point. Where the lid meets the rim of the can, there's a gap, even if it looks like a tight fit.

[00:09:35]That gap allows electromagnetic energy to leak into the interior. Testing has shown that an unprepared trash can with just a lid dropped on top provides noticeably less shielding than a properly sealed one.

[00:09:48]The fix is a conductive gasket.

[00:09:50]This is a strip of conductive material [music] that you place around the inner rim of the lid or the top of the can. When the lid seats down, it makes continuous electrical contact all the way around.

[00:10:01]The gap is eliminated. The shielding improves dramatically.

[00:10:05]You also want to line the inside of the can with cardboard or some other non-conductive material. This ensures that nothing stored inside is directly touching the metal walls.

[00:10:14]Direct contact isn't necessarily catastrophic, but isolation is good practice and prevents any issues with charge redistribution. Items well suited for a Faraday trash can include portable two-way radios, backup laptops or tablets, spare hard drives, small inverters, handheld GPS devices, battery-powered medical equipment, and spare electronic components you might need for repairs. Stack items carefully inside. Don't cram things in haphazardly. Use padding between devices. Keep the gasket in good condition and check it periodically.

[00:10:47]And store the can somewhere that won't be flooded or subject to extreme temperature swings. Protecting large items with conductive cloth. What about things that can't go inside a bag or a trash can?

[00:10:58]Large electronics like portable generators, riding mowers with electronic ignition, boats, RVs, or vehicles require a different approach entirely.

[00:11:07]The solution here is conductive shielding cloth. This is a fabric woven with conductive metallic fibers.

[00:11:13]Often nickel, copper, or a blend of both.

[00:11:16]It functions like a flexible Faraday cage material.

[00:11:19]The idea is straightforward. You make or purchase a large enough piece of this cloth, drape it over the item you want to protect, and let the edges of the cloth contact the ground all the way around the perimeter.

[00:11:31]The cloth intercepts incoming radiated EMP energy and routes it around the object rather than through it. Not all conductive cloth is equally effective.

[00:11:40]The shielding performance varies significantly between products, depending on the type of metal fibers used, the density of the weave, and the overall construction quality. Before committing to a product, look for independently tested shielding specifications.

[00:11:54]When deploying conductive cloth, make sure there are no large gaps or openings.

[00:11:59]Think of it like wrapping a gift.

[00:12:01][music] You want complete coverage.

[00:12:03]Overlap the seams. Make sure the bottom edges are making good contact with the ground.

[00:12:08]The ground contact is important because it allows the cloth to dissipate the intercepted energy.

[00:12:13]For vehicles specifically, you'd want to cover not just the body, but also the hood area where the engine electronics are located. If you can fold the cloth under the vehicle partially, that's even better coverage. Protecting your whole house, starting at the main panel.

[00:12:28]Now let's shift gears and talk about items that have to stay plugged in.

[00:12:32]You can't put your refrigerator in an EMP bag. Your home security system needs to stay connected. Your well pump needs to keep running.

[00:12:40]For these situations, you need to think about protecting the electrical pathway into your home. And the most logical starting point is your main breaker panel. Installing a high-quality surge protection device directly at the main panel is the foundational step. This device sits at the point where your home's electrical system connects to the grid. When abnormal voltage levels come down the line from an EMP's conducted E1 or E2 energy, the surge protection device clamps the voltage before it can get further into your home.

[00:13:10]Not all surge protectors are created equal. The devices you buy at retail stores and plug into your outlets are generally not adequate for EMP-level events.

[00:13:19]You want a whole house surge protection device that's hardwired directly into your main panel and rated for high energy transients. The specifications that matter are clamping voltage, response time, and joule rating.

[00:13:32]Lower clamping voltage, faster response time, and higher joule rating are all better.

[00:13:38]The second component for whole house protection is high saturation ferrites.

[00:13:42]These are magnetic components that are installed around the incoming power lines at the panel.

[00:13:47]Ferrites work by opposing rapid changes in current, which is exactly what an EMP transient is. A fast, sudden spike in current hits the ferrite and gets suppressed before it can propagate further. You typically need three of them at the main panel, one on each hot line, and one on the neutral.

[00:14:04]They're not complicated to install, but if you're not comfortable working in your breaker panel, have an electrician do it. The panel contains lethal voltages, and you should not work in it without proper knowledge and precautions.

[00:14:15]Together, the whole house surge protector and the high saturation ferrites provide a meaningful first layer of defense for everything in your home. They address the conducted threat pathway, the one coming through the power lines from the grid.

[00:14:28]Appreciate you being here. Tap that like button, drop a comment below, and subscribe if you haven't yet.

[00:14:35]Individual appliance protection with broadband ferrites. [music] Even after you've done the whole house protection, there's additional value in protecting individual appliances and devices.

[00:14:44]Think of it as layered defense.

[00:14:46]Each layer you add gives you better overall protection. For individual devices that need to stay plugged in, the most practical tool is a broadband ferrite clamp.

[00:14:56]These are small, split core ferrites that clip directly onto a power cord without any modification to the cord or device. You simply open the ferrite clamp, route the power cord through it, and snap it closed. That's it.

[00:15:08]The ferrite then sits on the cord and suppresses high frequency transients moving along that cord toward the device. Broadband ferrites are inexpensive enough that you can buy them in quantity and put them on almost every cord in the house.

[00:15:21]Computers, televisions, refrigerators, freezers, medical equipment, network routers, NAS drives, anything you'd be seriously unhappy to lose. One ferrite per cord is the baseline.

[00:15:33]For particularly sensitive equipment or equipment where the power cord run is long, you can use two or three ferrites spaced along the cord.

[00:15:41]More is generally better here, as long as you're using quality ferrites designed for this purpose. For maximum effectiveness, place the ferrite as close to the device as possible, not at the outlet end of the cord. You want to suppress the transient as close to the device's entry point as you can.

[00:15:57]You can also use ferrites on Ethernet cables, coaxial cables, and USB cables.

[00:16:03]Any conductor connected to a device is a potential entry point for conducted energy. Treating them all is good practice. A note on your internet and communication infrastructure.

[00:16:12]While we're talking about things that stay plugged in, let's address your internet and communication setup specifically. This is an area where a lot of people have significant investment and significant vulnerability.

[00:16:23]Your router, modem, and any network switches are solid state electronics.

[00:16:28]They're connected to the power grid through their power adapters. Many of them also have Ethernet cables running to the outside world, which are long conductors in their own right.

[00:16:37]Protecting these devices means ferrites on the power cords and on any Ethernet cables going outside the house. If you have a coaxial cable coming in from outside for cable internet, that cable is also a potential EMP energy pathway >> [music] >> and should be treated accordingly.

[00:16:52]Coaxial surge protectors designed for cable and satellite lines are available and relatively inexpensive. These are in-line devices that install on the coaxial cable before it enters the house or connects to your equipment. They clamp voltage transients on that line just like surge protectors do on power lines.

[00:17:10]For telephone lines, similar in-line protectors exist. If you have a landline, or more commonly, if you have a VoIP adapter connected to a phone line, protect those connections, too.

[00:17:21]The goal is to treat every conductor entering your home as a potential threat pathway and put something on it to suppress transient energy. Power lines, coaxial lines, Ethernet lines, phone lines, all of them.

[00:17:34]Vehicle protection, a three-part approach. Protecting your vehicle deserves its own dedicated section because vehicles present some unique challenges. They're large, they have complex electrical systems, and you generally can't just wrap them in a bag and call it done.

[00:17:49]The approach that makes most sense is a three-part system. Each part addresses a different vulnerability point in the vehicle's electrical system. The first component is a transient voltage suppression device that plugs into your vehicle's 12-V accessory socket. What older folks might call the cigarette lighter.

[00:18:07]These devices contain a fast-acting transient voltage suppression component internally. When voltage on the vehicle's electrical system rises suddenly beyond safe levels, this component activates and shunts the excess energy away before it can reach sensitive electronics.

[00:18:22]These devices are small, they stay plugged in all the time, and they provide continuous passive protection.

[00:18:28]They're also inexpensive relative to the cost of replacing vehicle electronics, which can run into thousands of dollars.

[00:18:35]The second component goes directly across the vehicle's battery terminals.

[00:18:39]It's a similar protection concept, a high-speed transient voltage suppression device, but positioned right at the battery, which is the central power distribution point for all vehicle electronics.

[00:18:50]If your vehicle has two batteries, use one device on each battery. The reason you want protection at the battery level is that transient energy can couple into the vehicle's wiring from outside and reach the battery from multiple directions. Having protection right at the battery intercepts energy from any of those pathways before it distributes further through the vehicle's electrical system.

[00:19:11]The third component is a set of high saturation ferrites that go around the main battery cables, the big cables running from the battery to the chassis and to the starter. These are the primary conductors that distribute power everywhere in the vehicle.

[00:19:25]Ferrites on these cables suppress fast transients before they spread to every branch of the vehicle's wiring.

[00:19:30]Together, these three components give your vehicle meaningful protection against the kind of conducted transient energy that an EMP would introduce into the vehicle's electrical system.

[00:19:40]It's not a guarantee. Nothing in this space is, but it's a substantial improvement over doing nothing.

[00:19:45]Protecting motorcycles and other smaller vehicles.

[00:19:49]While we're on the subject of vehicles, let's mention motorcycles, ATVs, and similar smaller vehicles. These are often overlooked in EMP preparation discussions, but many modern versions of these vehicles have significant electronic content. Modern motorcycles can have fuel injection systems, electronic ignition systems, ABS brakes, and traction control. [music] All of which rely on microcontrollers that are susceptible to EMP damage.

[00:20:14]The same three-part approach applies in scaled-down form. A 12-V accessory plug adapter with transient protection can be installed on many motorcycles.

[00:20:23]A battery-mounted protection device works just as well on a motorcycle battery as a car battery.

[00:20:29]Ferrites on the main battery leads accomplish the same goal. If you have an older carbureted motorcycle with minimal electronics and a simple points-based or basic ignition system, your vulnerability is significantly lower.

[00:20:42]But if you're riding anything purchased in the last 15 to 20 years, assume it has electronics worth protecting. You're still here? Amazing.

[00:20:50]Hit that like, comment something below, and subscribe for more practical content like this.

[00:20:55]The often overlooked backup power systems.

[00:20:59]Let's talk about something that a lot of preppers invest heavily in and then neglect to protect, backup power systems. If you've put money into a portable generator, an inverter generator, a solar panel setup, or a battery backup system like a large lithium power station, those investments are at risk, too.

[00:21:16]Portable generators with electronic control boards are vulnerable. The recoil start, purely mechanical generators of decades past, were essentially EMP proof because they had no electronics to damage. But modern generators, even many that appear simple, often have electronic ignition systems, automatic voltage regulators with electronic components, and sometimes digital displays and controls.

[00:21:40]Solar systems are particularly complex in their vulnerability. The solar panels themselves are relatively robust, but the charge controllers and inverters that manage and convert the power they generate are full of solid-state electronics.

[00:21:53]A solar system with a damaged inverter produces power you can't use. For portable generators and power stations small enough to store inside a Faraday container, do exactly that. Keep a backup unit stored and protected. For large whole-house generators or solar systems that must remain operational and can't be stored, focus on protecting the electronic control components specifically, and have spare control board stored in a protected enclosure if possible. Battery-powered power stations that aren't connected to the grid are less vulnerable through the conducted pathway, but still vulnerable to radiated energy.

[00:22:27]Store them in Faraday bags or containers when not in use. Bring them out when needed.

[00:22:32]Medical electronics and life-critical devices. This is a category that doesn't get nearly enough attention. If you or someone in your household depends on medical electronics, EMP protection for those devices isn't optional, it's urgent. [music] CPAP machines, insulin pumps, hearing aids, blood pressure monitors, defibrillators, infusion pumps, home dialysis equipment. These are all electronic devices. They're all potentially vulnerable. For portable medical devices like insulin pumps and hearing aids, a shielded bag is the most straightforward solution for any backup units you might have. For devices that must be in continuous use, you're dealing with the same challenge as other always-on electronics. You need to protect the pathway they receive power through.

[00:23:15]Beyond that, talk to your medical equipment supplier. Ask them what the manufacturer says about EMP risks and protection. Ask if they have surge-protected power adapters or if the device has any built-in protection.

[00:23:27]Most suppliers won't have great answers, but it's worth asking.

[00:23:32]At a minimum, ensure that any device with a power cord has ferrites on that cord, and have a conversation with your medical team about contingency plans in a grid-down scenario that might last beyond battery life. Early warning, know when it happens.

[00:23:46]Here's something that most people in the EMP preparation space don't talk about enough. Knowing that an EMP has occurred, and knowing quickly, can dramatically change your outcome. An EMP detonation happens high in the atmosphere. You won't see it. [music] You won't hear it. There's no shockwave at ground level. There's no mushroom cloud visible in most cases. The first hint most people would have is that electronics start behaving strangely or stop working altogether.

[00:24:11]But by the time you notice those symptoms, significant damage may already have occurred. Worse, the E3 phase of the event, the slow powerful surge that rides into homes through the power grid, may still be on its way. If your home is still connected to the grid when E3 arrives, and you haven't opened your main breaker, you may lose everything plugged in, even if it survived the initial E1.

[00:24:33]This is where an EMP alert device becomes genuinely valuable.

[00:24:37]These devices serve two distinct functions. First, they monitor for the radiated electromagnetic burst that characterizes E1 and E2.

[00:24:46]The device has a small antenna and detection circuitry specifically tuned to recognize an EMP-like pulse.

[00:24:52]When it detects one, it sounds an alarm immediately, before you've even had a chance to notice anything else is wrong.

[00:24:59]Second, they monitor the voltage on your home's power lines. When voltage levels on the grid start deviating from normal, which would happen as E3 energy begins building in the grid infrastructure, the device detects that deviation and sounds a continuous alarm.

[00:25:14]That second alarm is your cue to act. Go to your main breaker panel. Open the main breaker. Disconnect your home from the grid. Now the E3 surge has nowhere to go inside your house.

[00:25:26]This is a genuinely powerful combination. The device gives you advanced warning and buys you the time to take a manual action that could save thousands of dollars of electronics and appliances. In a scenario where minutes or even seconds matter, having that early warning changes everything.

[00:25:42]Place the EMP alert device somewhere you'll hear it clearly from anywhere in your home. Treat its alarm the same way you'd treat a smoke detector alarm.

[00:25:49]Immediate attention, no hesitation.

[00:25:52]Building your protection in priority order.

[00:25:55]Let's bring this all together in a practical, priority ordered action plan.

[00:25:59]Because you may not be able to do everything at once, and knowing what to tackle first matters. Priority one, protect the things that matter most and are easiest to protect. Small electronics that you desperately want after a disaster. Backup radios, spare phones, important documents on drives, go into EMP bags today. This costs relatively little and can be done this week. Priority two, install whole house protection at your main breaker panel.

[00:26:26]The surge protection device and the high saturation ferrites.

[00:26:30]This is the foundational layer that protects everything connected to your home's electrical system.

[00:26:35]If you can only do one infrastructure investment, this is it. Priority three, deploy broadband ferrites on individual devices throughout your home. Start with the most critical and most expensive electronics. Work your way through the rest over time. Priority four, build a Faraday container for medium-sized backup electronics. Get a galvanized trash can, install a conductive gasket, [music] and start populating it with items you want to have available post event.

[00:27:03]Priority five, protect your vehicle with the three-part transient suppression system. This is especially important if your vehicle is your primary transportation, and you'd need it to function during or after an event.

[00:27:15]Priority six, add an EMP alert device for early warning capability. This doesn't protect anything directly, but it enables you to take manual protective action when it matters most. Priority seven, address any large electronics like generators or solar systems using conductive cloth or other appropriate solutions. Working through this list systematically gives you meaningful protection at every stage.

[00:27:38]You don't need to finish all seven levels before you have significant protection in place. Every step [music] forward is genuine progress. Final thoughts, it's simpler than it sounds. I want to leave you with this. EMP protection sounds complex, and at the engineering level, it genuinely is.

[00:27:55]But at the practical implementation level, it's actually quite approachable.

[00:27:59]You put small things in bags. You put medium things in a metal can. You put transient suppressors on power lines.

[00:28:06]You clip ferrites onto cords. You drape conductive cloth over big things. You install a detection