This video demonstrates the complete process of assembling and debugging a custom radiation monitoring display using an ESP32-based CYD (Cheap Yellow Display) device. The project involves laser-cutting an acrylic case, integrating components like a tactile switch, battery bay, and touchscreen, and troubleshooting common issues including boot looping and connection instability. The device is designed to connect via Bluetooth to radiation monitoring equipment (Radiacode 110, 103, zero, and 101) to provide a larger, more visible readout for filming purposes. Key technical challenges addressed include proper screw sizing, ribbon cable routing, power management for low-power states, and multi-core programming to achieve high sampling rates (over 100 counts per second) for accurate radiation detection.
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Radiacode + CYD (Cheap Yellow Display) - Part 2追加:
All right. Today, I'm playing with these cheap yellow displays and what's left of an old power bank that I've got kicking around.
These are incredibly nifty little things based on an ESP32.
They have an SD card. They have speaker, a bunch of different IR ports, and a whole bunch of little options on here that are really handy, including an RGB LED, and even a light sensor on the top, and Wi-Fi and Bluetooth through the ESP32, and a touch screen. It's a little TFT 408 2.8-in screen.
So, I've been in AutoCAD. We're going to make a case for it and see what we can do with it.
>> [music] [music] [music] [music] >> Okay, we have some parts here.
All right. So, now we have some 3-mil screws, 3-mil standoffs, and our tweezers.
Let's see stuff fits.
First off, the most important bit. These can go out of the way.
This bit here. Now, we have a little square in here to put a little tactile switch, because when we assemble this, the reset and the main user switch are not going to be accessible. I'm going to piggyback a couple of thin wires off that.
Put a button through the front.
Next bit I'm interested in.
How do we go measuring the screen?
And will it fit in here? Oh, it's a very close.
Oh, that ribbon cable on the bottom might be the probably the showstopper there.
Take a look at the back.
Um that's the piece there. That should drop in there.
The holes look pretty good.
So, this piece is going to sit nicely.
Um these have all dropped in.
So, that's good. That gives us our basis to bolt things down.
Um [snorts] we want to check our next piece.
Is this going to drop our in battery and bay?
That's going to clip in nicely.
So, that's going to work.
So, that will be good. Now, is 6 mil enough to fit these in? A 6 mil looks like it is indeed enough.
This will cover that. So, the battery bay looks like it's going to work well. So, the only real bit we've got a little bit of trouble with is one edge of this. So, let's see what I can do with that.
All right. So, some manual adjustment later and a little bit of glass breakage in the corner later, we got it to fit.
Should have just gone back out the shed and laser cut a new one, but let's see if it all goes together.
All right. And uh the one thing I didn't bother to do is figure out how long the screws should be. They're one thread too short.
But, I have threaded inserts. Whether or not they'll fit without breaking things is another matter.
But, uh I guess I can always cut another back.
Okay, we have things assembled.
Little bit of broken in the corner, but I mean a cheap display, so we'll get another one.
It's literally in the name. I have the two IO pins hanging out here.
I'm hoping what I'm going to do with this is um we plug in here.
But, uh what I'll probably do is program it up to use this button in here, which is now I think the super glue got into it.
That's frustrating. I was hoping to use this button as the user button so that it can be shut it down.
Um and then hopefully when it goes to low power state the battery bank under here will um shut down and go to sleep.
Now, after all this, let's see if it actually works.
Now, the button on here I think is a little bit in the wrong spot.
Anyway.
I tried to scan for something.
Oh, okay. It's an auto connect if it only finds one.
Okay, I forgot I programmed that and it just disconnected again.
All right. Interesting.
Um I might be using the user button that is now depressed in there.
Okay, we got it disassembled, reassembled, we got the switch replaced.
Yes, it will charge.
I probably could have peeled that bit of tape off, but you know, that works so we know that will charge.
We can unplug you.
We can probably plug power in and make it fire up.
Now, hopefully this will connect to the radio card zero. I probably need to refine the programming on this.
I think I've got my position for that button out of whack.
Let's see if it'll find the zero.
It did and it's going to link. Let's see if it automatically disconnects cuz it shouldn't.
Is it going to disconnect? Okay, so there's a problem with the code.
We'll work on that later.
The next morning. All right, it is the next morning.
We got a cup of happening.
Um we're going to address some programming.
I am planning on using these as an access control for a radiation therapy um magnetic therapy machine.
Not radiation cuz I'm looking at these.
Um and we did test it around. It's got high voltage and magnetic shocks. We tested these to make sure they weren't going to die in that machine first.
Um so, maybe we've done some damage to it in the process.
Uh but, we've got to fix this boot looping problem.
Or rather, the connection logging problem. Where is it?
You know what? There we go.
Now, at the moment it connects, disconnects, connects, disconnects, gets stuck in a loop. Could be power brownouts.
Don't know, but we're going to try and fix the uh programming on that.
Yeah, see? It's just going to disconnect and then go around a loop like that. So, we need to figure that out.
Okay, we have it mostly stable now.
We've figured that code out. We uh shoved some things across multiple cores.
This should change um colors at 100 counts per second.
Um if my samples in this container will get it there.
We'll have to work that out.
All right, let's test the big guns.
This should for sure get us over 100.
There we go. We should be able to get over 1,000 if I do it right.
Yeah, shut up.
There we go. I have a source a distance away, and I'm monitoring this from about probably 20 ft away. So, yes, it will go red at that high level. That's good.
All right. So, I've got it to an acceptable state now, and I've got the power connection back into the power bank.
I have set it to go to sleep, and I was hoping it would go to sleep and not re-trigger the um uh not re-trigger the battery bank, but it does when it uh the power bank turns off. But, the power bank fortunately has a little bypass button on here as well.
So, I can just push and hold this, and I think it should wake it up.
Should be keyword. There we go.
That should turn it on. We've got the touchscreen working again.
At least we did.
But, I've got an override button just in case.
The touch screen has some ghosting issues. It's picking up stuff that it shouldn't.
But that's all right. We can just do this. For what I'm doing with this, this will be fine.
Okay, we relocated this button around the side. We soldered it back onto the one there.
Um the LED RGB LED in here should register different colors of things. I was hoping it would spread out a bit more than it does.
But if I'm filming, which is what this is for, um you should be able to see a bit of light in low light conditions.
It should sort of show through the back a little bit, although it's a bit overdriven by the blue lights from this, but I can probably do something about that. So, this is a good one. I'll see you in the next video and uh hopefully it's something interesting for you.
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